Categories
Food Recipes

Pickled Egg Recipe: Discover Four Delicous Versions

A delicious pickled egg recipe is sure to become a family favorite. They make great snacks straight from the jar, but it can be difficult to stop at just one. Sliced in half and placed on a charcuterie platter makes a creative and welcomed treat. Or pluck out the yolks and mash them with mayo, mustard and pickle relish and you’ll have some of the most unique deviled eggs you’ve ever tasted. Pickled eggs can even be added to bloody Mary skewers, alongside other homemade pickled goodies. 

Pickled eggs can be dated back to 16th century England, originally used as a method of preserving eggs. They were popular in Germany in the mid-1700s. Since then, they’ve become a popular snack at pubs. Because pickled eggs are salty, they induce thirst, which makes people drink more. You can often find a jar of pickled eggs alongside a jar of pickled pigs feet at small-town bars in Minnesota and Wisconsin. 

Below are four yummy pickled egg recipes. Ideally, you should let the eggs pickle for at least one week before eating. You can eat them at any point, but the longer you wait (one to two weeks), the better flavor they’ll have.

Oh Boil!

Before we get to pickling, we must hard boil the eggs. The fresher the egg is, the more difficult it will be to get the peel off smoothly. The reasoning behind this is that the membrane on the inside of the shell is firmly against the shell of fresh eggs. However, as the days pass, the egg shrinks and the space between the eggshell and membrane gets larger, which makes the eggs easier to peel. 

It seems like everyone has their tried-and-true method for hard-boiling the perfect egg. My mom swears that adding a glug (technical term) of oil to the water before adding the eggs helps the skin slide right off when peeling. My aunt and grandma swear by steaming eggs. They both have small egg steamers that truly do cook the eggs perfectly, with shells that seem to practically fall off the hard-boiled egg, regardless of the freshness of the egg. However, when steaming, an extra step to pierce a small hole into the end of the egg before cooking is required.

The method that I stand by came printed on a refrigerator magnet I picked up at a conference 15 years ago from the American Egg Board. This is the method I’ve used to hard-boil eggs ever since, and I stand by it. However, I do tend to use my week-old (or older) eggs whenever possible.

Hard Boiling Instructions

  1. Place the eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the eggs by at least 1 inch.
  2. Bring eggs to a boil, and turn off the heat. Cover the pot, and remove it from the burner. Allow the eggs to stand in the hot water for 15 minutes; 12 minutes for medium eggs.
  3. Drain the hot water from the eggs, and run cold water over the eggs. Soak in an ice bath for 15 minutes, or until eggs are completely cooled.
  4. Peel eggs by cracking the shell and peeling from the large end. Hold the egg under running cold water or dip it in a bowl of water to ease off the shell.

Making pickled eggs allows you to experiment with ingredients. If you have a ratio of at least 1:1 vinegar to water (up to 100 percent vinegar), you can add whatever seasonings and herbs you desire. 

You can even use different kinds of vinegar, if they’re safe for pickling, such as apple cider vinegar, malt vinegar or wine vinegar. It’s fun to experiment with new flavor combos! But remember to be sure and always start with a clean workspace, sterilized jars and clean lids. 

1. Ye Olde English Style Pickled Egg Recipe

pickled eggs

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients
  • 5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger root, peeled
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole allspice

Brine

  • 1 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation

Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients
to a clean pint jar.

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. 

Place the canning jar lid on the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting.

2. Mustard Pickled Egg Recipe

pickled-egg-recipe

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients
  • 5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
  • 1 teaspoon ground yellow mustard
  • 1 teaspoon celery seed
  • 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
  • 3 whole cloves
  • 2 tablespoons yellow onions, thinly sliced 

brine

  • 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1 tablespoon white granulated sugar
  • 2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation

Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar. Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt and sugar is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting. 

3. Spicy Pickled Egg Recipe

pickled eggs

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients
  • 5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
  • 1 jalapeño pepper (or hotter pepper of choice), halved
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 2 sprigs fresh dill
  • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

brine

  • 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 2 teaspoons canning salt
Preparation

Add the eggs and the rest of the ingredients to a clean pint jar.

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the rim of the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator.

4. Quick Pickled Egg Recipe with Brine Leftovers

pickled-egg-recipe

Each fall, I can 30 pints or more of sliced jalapeños (solely for my personal consumption). I love them and can’t get enough. I put jalapeño slices on nearly everything I eat. 

Once a jar is almost empty, I use the brine to make a quick-pickled spicy egg. The leftover jalapeño brine lends the perfect flavor to the eggs. I simply add hard-boiled eggs to the empty jar, make sure the brine totally covers the eggs and allow them to pickle for a week or two. Store-bought pickled peppers work just as well.

This same method can be used with homemade pickled beet brine or store-bought too. After just a few days in the pink beet brine, the egg white turns a vibrant pink color. If they’re pickled long enough, even the yolks will turn pink. Beet-brine pickled eggs take on a strong beet flavor after pickling. 


Pickled Egg Recipe Additional Tips

Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars, and wash lids. 

The longer the eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the “rubberier” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, eat pickled eggs within three months for best texture. 

Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs while quart jars fit 10 to 12 eggs.

Use regular-mouth canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.

This pickled egg recipe article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe. 

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

How to Make a Hotbed & Grow Sweet Corn Transplants

How to make a hotbed is useful for growing vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. As a bonus learn how to grow sweet corn transplants.

What is a Hotbed?

A hotbed is basically a garden bed heated by decomposing organic material such as manure that allows year-round cultivation. A greenhouse or cold frame is used to trap the heat.

Various crops can be grown in hotbeds, such as vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. The technique is useful in extending the growing season, and after some practice, it could even be used to grow tropical plants (if you have a taste for horse-manure pineapples!).

How to Make a Hotbed

A hotbed could be made by building a box around three feet deep and four-to-six-feet-square. Bricks, lumber or straw could be used as building materials. If you don’t have any materials and don’t mind the work, you can make an even better hotbed by digging a pit with the same dimensions.

Obtain some manure, preferably horse manure containing around one-third of straw or other bedding. Place the manure in a pile, compact it and wait three to four days until it gets warm. Turn it over, compact it again and wait another three to four days. Now the manure should be ready to be placed in the hotbed.

Fill the hotbed with manure, and tamp it down so that the depth is one to two feet. Add six to eight inches of topsoil and a south-facing cold frame on top to keep in the heat. Don’t plant immediately as the hotbed will reach high temperatures for several days. You can safely plant when the temperature drops to 85°F or slightly lower.

Using & Maintaining a Hotbed

Maintaining the hotbed will require some skill in opening the frames in mild weather and covering them in very cold nights, but overall, you’ll be surprised at the usefulness of this natural greenhouse. The heat generated from decomposing horse manure could last for several weeks to a few months, depending on various factors, including the size of the bed and the quality of the manure.

Generally, a hotbed will be warm for six to eight weeks. A hotbed makes a wonderful bed for growing pumpkins or other nutrient-loving plants in the summer.

how-to-make-a-hotbed
Hotbeds provide bottom heat to transplants, enhancing germination and stimulating root growth.
PAUL MAGUIRE//STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Transplanting Sweet Corn

Transplanting sweet corn is an old technique that is sometimes used even today. Because plants get established quickly, farmers get an earlier crop as well as effective weed control without herbicides. Gaps in the field from ungerminated seeds are avoided as well as weed competition which leads to a better crop.

The old-school directions for transplanting corn is to prepare a plot of land much like a garden in fall. Scatter the seeds and cover with some straw to prevent birds from eating them. The following spring, the land where the crop will eventually grow is plowed, and the small corn plants are transplanted. Though this requires a lot of effort, much time is saved from weeding and the resulting crop is earlier and better.

Modern growers use greenhouses and 98-cell trays with potting mix to sow corn seeds several weeks earlier than planting time. The trays are placed on tables so that the corn won’t root in the ground. After around 12 days at greenhouse temperatures of 65 degrees in the day and 60 at night, the transplants are hardened off for two to six days and planted in the prepared soil. The transplants could be also covered with a floating row cover for further protection and season extension. Try several varieties of corn beforehand because varieties can widely differ in vigor.

Though the process of transplanting corn could be costly, there are many benefits. Growers who transplant corn find that there is less weed trouble, an earlier harvest to attract customers and even a higher yield (mostly because of more plants per acre).

This article about how to make a hotbed and grow sweet corn transplants was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

24 Best Crops to Grow in 2024: Fruits, Veggies & Herbs

What crops to grow tops many farmer’s and backyard gardener’s lists. Here’s our list of the 24 best crops to grow for fruits, vegetables and herbs. This is not a “sexiest crops of 2024” list. This list is more about reliability than it is about trends. They have been tested in an area that typically sees six frost-free months in zone 6b. From this list, you may find the inspiration you need to get your 2024 garden off to a good start.

crops-for-2024
Carmen Peppers
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

1. Carmen Peppers

I don’t prefer peppers, but I found one variety that I savor: the sweet Italian Carmen frying peppers. I could have left this vegetable-diary entry at “sweet Italian peppers,” but I’ve tried a few varieties and find Carmens are the most suited for my garden and my taste.

I also prefer the red over the yellow, but that might be about looks more than flavor.

crops-for-2024
Garden Huckleberries
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

2. Garden Huckleberries

Don’t confuse garden huckleberries — nightshades, growing in clusters on long, upright stalks —with wild huckleberries. Green, unripe garden huckleberries are toxic when ingested in quantity; ripe but raw, they’re mildly acerbic; but cook them down with sugar, and they make an unforgettable ultraviolet-colored freezer jam that tastes like a grape-blueberry combination.

3. Borage

Borage is a great medicinal herb. The blue flowers make yummy cucumber-flavored additions to salads, and bumblebees flock to the blooms. Borage can grow quite tall, and it’ll reseed next season. I appreciate that borage can withstand some frost, keeping color in the garden a little longer.

4. Thornless Blackberries

Friends gave me a few thornless blackberry canes when I moved to this farm, and they weren’t sure of the variety. I wish I knew.

Each year, I harvest gallons of blackberries through the entire month of July from a 15-foot row. Besides pruning them back in the winter, I perform no upkeep on these plants.

Blackberries aren’t my favorite fruit, but the cost-benefit exchange puts them on my top-24 list.

crops-for-2024
Salt & Pepper Cucumbers
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

5. Salt & Pepper Cucumbers

The yellow-white skin of these pickling cucumbers throws off some people, but they’ve outproduced the rest of the pickling cucumbers I’ve tried growing, so I don’t mind the color.

My garden has an intense Mexican bean beetle population with a taste for cucurbits. These cucumbers get going before the beetles show up and just keep growing while under siege.

6. Mexican Sour Gherkins

I learned about Mexican sour gherkins — aka cucamelons (pictured on this issue’s cover) or mouse melons —years ago at the Key West Community Garden in Key West, Florida. The vines look like delicate cucumber plants. The fruits look like tiny watermelons and taste like tangy cucumbers. They’re crisp and delicious when fresh and pickle well. They’re fun to bring to potlucks, too. I never seem to grow enough of them.

7-9. Three Toms

Every garden needs some tomatoes, but don’t simply stop at the Romas and the beefsteaks. Try planting these this spring.

RED PEARL TOMATOES: Grape tomatoes that ripen early, hold well on the vine, keep well after harvest, and produce until the frost? Red Pearls are a dream. I eat them whole and in salsa all season long, and when I can eat no more, I roast them with salt and olive oil and freeze them to use all winter in quiche and focaccia.

CA CHUA HONG TOMATOES: A Vietnamese heirloom, I’ve read about these tomatoes growing as large as 3 pounds, but I haven’t harvested any giants like that. Among the slicing varieties I grow, these produce first and longest. They’re meaty, so I don’t mind canning them, too. I describe the taste as a typical red tomato. For being indeterminate, the plants are a reasonable size.

LAURA’S POMME D’AMOUR TOMATOES: These plum tomatoes are an example of a variety not commercially available. I’m growing these in honor of Laura, a gardener who was developing this strain of large-thumb-sized, low-seed, high-pulp tomatoes when she passed away in 2009. I started growing these in 2020, and they’re the most productive and longest-producing of any other paste variety I grow.

10. Too Much Zucchini

“Too much” isn’t a variety; it’s a quantity. I have an affinity for summer squash just as I do for winter squash.

I eat zucchini for breakfast, lunch and dinner throughout the growing season, then shred and freeze the extras to add to meals and baked goods the rest of the year. I look for varieties that produce large plants to handle my garden’s cucurbit pest pressure.

11. Xiye Butternut

Maybe it’s too soon for me to declare my love to this squash, but the 45 pounds of massive, thick-skinned, long-storing Xiye (pronounced she-yay) butternuts yielded by a handful of plants last year outcompete every other butternut I’ve tried.

Xiye is under development by a farmer I met last year who’s motivated to find a butternut that thrives in her Tennessee garden. I’m impressed.

crops-to-grow
Jester Delicata
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

12. Jester Delicata

This is the last squash, I promise. I love delicata for its flavor and use as a vessel to stuff with all manner of grains, other veggies, fruits and meats.

Jester is a hybrid and looks like a cross between delicata and carnival squash. Jester has shorter vines than many winter squash, making it less of a garden bully.

crops-to-grow
Luffa
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

13. Luffa

My neighbors grow luffa up a trellis on the west side of their home to add shade. I’ve always admired these crops to grow so I grew my own along a fence line last year. It’s one thing to be able to grow your own food but to be able to also grow your own sponges for bathroom and kitchen use feels next level.

14. Burgundy Okra

I appreciate my burgundy okra for its looks and more. They start producing when they’re only a couple of feet tall, releasing their cream-colored hibiscus-like flowers along their stalks and side shoots. I can’t get enough of these flowers!

The leaves are spineless, and the pods are easy to spot for harvest because they’re burgundy instead of green.

15. Don’t Forget the Flowers

In 2022, I realized I had more garden space than I did energy. I decided to let one row go fallow for the season, but instead of planting a cover crop, I planted a wildflower mix. The garden came alive with flowers and pollinators in a way I hadn’t expected.

That row remains in wildflowers, and I’ll never again have a garden that doesn’t involve these beauties.

16. Clary Sage

Clary sage is a newer medicinal addition to my garden crops to grow and one I wonder how I did without. This biennial starts with fuzzy, burdock-looking leaves.

In its second year, it sends up a stalk with tightly packed purple blossoms along it. I was pleased enough to find this, and then I was in awe witnessing flowers opening and stalk further unfurling over the next week. It was simply stunning.

17. Papalo

A nod to my more tropical farming experience, papalo — also called pore herb — is commonly used fresh in Mexico and Central America. It tastes similar to a lime cilantro, and a little goes a long way.

Cilantro is quick to bolt in Kentucky summers, but I can get a similar flavor with this bushy, prolific herb. I’ve heard that it can reseed and become weedy, but not here.

18. Munstead Lavender

Early in my farming journey, I was enchanted by a visit to a lavender farm in Idaho. Munstead lavender has been in my garden ever since. Lavender is medicinal and makes a delightful syrup.

I like that it offers a bit of a challenge as far as crops to grow, requiring a bit of a buffer from the coldest parts of winter and well-drained soil, instead of the heavy clay native to my garden.

19. Kapoor Tulsi

The first herb I ever grew on my own was Kapoor tulsi, also known as holy basil. This plant captivates me, from its herby-licorice-bubblegum scent to its purple flower stalks to the calming tisane resulting from steeping its leaves and flowers in hot water.

Be warned that it’ll reseed to the point of being weedy.

garlic
Garlic
PHOTOS BY LISA MUNNIKSMA

20. Garlic

I have been known to grow too much garlic. (OK, I consistently grow too much garlic.) But garlic cures well, I use it nearly every day and I appreciate having something green growing in the garden when everything else is brown and gray.

I also like to say garlic scapes are 80% of the reason that I grow garlic. If you’ve ever fermented scapes, you understand. The whole plant pleases me.

21. Swiss Chard

Greens are a staple of my diet. Swiss chard makes the cut for being the most productive through the summer.

While kale and collard plants are looking pale and getting picked on by harlequin bugs, the Swiss chard just keeps putting out large, shiny leaves. In the winter, it slows but rebounds alongside the temperature and daylight.

22. Fat Horses Beans

Dry beans are fun crops to grow, good for soil building and a great kitchen staple.

I was given a few fat horses heirloom dry beans while traveling in Mississippi a few years ago. I planted them in my first-ever garden and now eat these pintolike beans all the time. Heirloom beans each have a story, and by planting these varieties, you become part of the story, too.

23. Broccoli Rabe

I love broccoli, and honestly, I don’t have the patience for it in my crops to grow. Enter broccoli rabe. I’m looking for the broccoli-floret taste and the broccoli-stem crunch, and broccoli rabe offers this plus more leafy greens to satisfy me.

24. Salad Radishes

The opposite of broccoli’s long growth period, salad radishes’ quick growth makes me feel like I know what I’m doing in the garden. I grow too many radishes, then thin them and eat the thinnings as microgreens. I appreciate that radishes come ready so quickly in the spring, offering something new to eat before other early spring crops are ready.

Maybe like me you find garden planning is full of hope and sometimes overwhelming. Let my garden lessons guide you as you make your own list of 24 crops to grow in 2024.

This article about the 24 best crops to grow in 2024 was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Nasturtiums: 5 Reasons To Grow Them

Nasturtiums are a workhorse farm flower that many gardeners plant simply for their beauty and carefree nature. The truth is that nasturtiums serve many important roles in a garden; we shouldn’t just grow them for their good looks alone.

1. Nasturtiums Are Edible

If you haven’t nibbled a nasturtium blossom, it’s time. Their fresh, peppery flavor is a spectacular way to spice up a salad or sandwich, or top a cracker spread with cream cheese. There are many recipes using nasturtiums cooked as well, including my favorite: stuffed with goat cheese, battered and fried. Nasturtiums can also be candied for use on cakes, tarts and other desserts. Oh, and the leaves are edible, too.

Pricing and selling nasturtiums in the edible flower market can also contribute to a profitable farm income.

2. They’re Aphid Nurseries

You’re probably asking yourself why I would include this in a list of positive nasturtium attributes, but the truth is, if you don’t have a few plants that aphids love in your garden, you won’t have a good population of ladybugs, lacewings and other beneficial insects around either. Nasturtiums can tolerate a ton of aphids feeding on them with little ill effects, so having them around as an aphid nursery means they can also help grow a healthy population of beneficial insects who can keep pest outbreaks on other plants in check.

3. Nasturtiums Make a Great Living Mulch

Trailing nasturtium varieties spread very quickly and cover a lot of ground, making an unwelcoming environment for weeds as they do. The soil in a garden with a cover of nasturtium foliage is shaded, which helps suppress weed seed germination. A living mulch of nasturtiums might also prevent excess moisture loss from the soil due to evaporation, and it helps shade the soil to keep it a bit cooler during hot summer weather.

4. They Provide Food for Pollinators

Nasturtium blossoms are a great nectar source for a wide variety of insects, including long-tongued bumblebees and butterflies. You’ll also find hummingbirds enjoying the nectar the blooms produce. That long spur you find at the back of the flower is where the nectar is found, so only certain creatures can access it, but those that do, are a joy to watch in the garden. Nasturtiums are quite floriferous, too, with most plants in constant bloom from mid-summer through fall’s first frost.

5. Nasturtiums Provide Excellent Toad Habitat

The bug-eating prowess of toads often goes unappreciated by farmers, but the truth is that every morning and every evening, toads patrol the garden, lapping up ants, slugs, beetles and scores of other insects. Even if you seldom spot a toad in your landscape during the day, know that there are still likely to be many around. During warm, sunny weather, toads take shelter, nestling under mulch, in cavities or under a cooling canopy of foliage. And guess what plant’s foliage makes a great canopy for toads? That’s right, nasturtiums. Their ground-hugging, spreading nature, creates moist pockets that are wonderful toad habitat.

As you can see, beyond their beauty and easy nature, there are many excellent reasons to make nasturtiums your new favorite farm flower.

This article about nasturtiums was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Tire Inflator or Air Compressor: Which Do You Need?

Tire inflators vs. air compressors. What exactly are the differences? Do you need one machine more than the other, or are both handy to have around? Let’s dig into the key differences.

First, there are two main types of powered machines that can be used to inflate tires on cars, tractors, wagons, and more. We’ll refer to them as tire inflators and air compressors, though these names aren’t especially formalized—both machines compress air and can be used to inflate tires.

Tire inflator

For the purpose of this article, a tire inflator is a machine that inflates tires without using a tank to hold compressed air. The lack of this tank makes tire inflators lightweight and portable. Some tire inflators draw power from a regular wall outlet, but others can be powered by the 12-volt (cigarette) outlet in a car. That’s convenient if you want a tire inflator that can ride along in your car and, if necessary, inflate a tire when you’re traveling and away from other sources of power.

But tire inflators have disadvantages. In some cases they’re not as powerful as air compressors with tanks, so they can take longer to inflate tires. And they may be unable to fully inflate tires that require high pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure. Check the recommended PSI range for the tires you’ll be filling and make sure the maximum PSI rating of your tire inflator is higher.

Air compressor

For the purpose of this article, an air compressor is a machine that holds compressed air in a storage tank. Many models are electric and plug into wall outlets, but gasoline air compressors are also available.

Strength is a primary benefit of an air compressor; they typically have high maximum PSI ratings and can be used to quickly inflate tires to high PSI levels. And while an air compressor (like a tire inflator) is bound to produce some noise while it fills its tank, once the tank is full you can inflate tires in silence using the stored air, at least until the pressure in the tank drops low enough for the air compressor to start up again.

But there’s another big benefit offered by air compressors: they can do more than just inflate tires. Air compressors can be used with a wide variety of air-powered tools, such as nail guns and impact wrenches. You’ll just need to ensure you air compressor is big enough and strong enough to handle these jobs, which comes down to factors like the size of the holding tank (in gallons) and the volume of air (in cubic feet per minute, CFM) the air compressor can supply at any given PSI level.

Conclusions

If all you’re looking for is a machine to inflate tires to moderate PSI levels, opt for a tire inflator and appreciate its portability. But if you have heavy-duty tires to fill, or if you want to use air tools (like a nail gun) on farm construction projects, an air compressor is the way to go. Or best of all, get them both and use whichever is better suited to any given need that arises.

This article about tire inflator or air compressor was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Best Tractor Battery: Flooded Lead-Acid or AGM

The best tractor battery depends on several factors. Traditionally, flooded lead-acid batteries have been the go-to choice for starting engines and powering the other electrical needs of tractors, cars, trucks, and more. But another type of lead-acid battery—the absorbent glass-mat (AGM) battery—is an alternative offering both pros and cons.

What are the differences between flooded lead-acid and AGM batteries?

Lead-acid batteries surround lead plates with a mix of sulfuric acid and water called the electrolyte, generating a reaction that produces electricity. But the nuances of the design can vary.

In a flooded lead-acid battery, the electrolyte is in liquid form. In contrast, an AGM battery contains fiberglass mats that absorb the electrolyte and cushion the lead plates inside. An AGM battery is a type of valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) battery, also known as a sealed lead-acid battery.

Upsides of AGM batteries

AGM batteries offer many advantages compared to flooded lead-acid batteries:

  • The liquid electrolyte in a flooded lead-acid battery can leak out if the battery isn’t positioned upright. AGM batteries are sealed, so they can be mounted in any orientation without risk of leakage.
  • Flooded lead-acid batteries require regular maintenance, such as adding distilled water. AGM batteries do not.
  • The fiberglass mats make AGM batteries less susceptible to damage from vibrations than flooded lead-acid batteries.
  • AGM batteries perform well in a wide range of cold and hot temperatures.
  • AGM batteries charge faster and can have a longer lifespan than flooded lead-acid batteries.
  • When it comes to starting engines, a flooded lead-acid battery performs best when discharged only a little before recharging. AGM batteries can discharge deeper and still have enough oomph to start an engine, which frees up battery reserves for powering other electronics in a vehicle.
  • When charging, AGM batteries put out less gas (such as hydrogen, which can be explosive) than flooded lead-acid batteries.

Downsides of AGM batteries

If you’re thinking, “an AGM battery sounds awesome for my tractor,” that’s not surprising. But keep in mind there are downsides to AGM batteries:

  • AGM batteries are more expensive than flooded lead-acid batteries. While this can be offset by lower maintenance and longer lifespan, the increased up-front cost is worth keeping in mind.
  • AGM batteries can be damaged (and their lifespan thus shortened) by high voltages and overcharging. If you’re operating an older tractor, it’s possible its alternator isn’t suitable for recharging an AGM battery.
  • Along the same lines, if you’ll be charging your AGM battery with a standalone battery charger, you’ll need to get one that’s designed for charging AGM batteries.

Which makes the best tractor battery?

AGM batteries are commonly found in new cars because they’re excellent at powering the many electronics packed into modern automobiles while still offering enough power for starting the engine. Depending on the electrical requirements of your tractor, this may be less relevant; an old tractor might use the battery for starting the engine, powering headlights at night, and nothing more.

A newer tractor, on the other hand, may have enough electronics on board to benefit from an AGM battery. And if you’re interested in any of the other benefits offered by AGM batteries (including the reduced maintenance requirements), you might want to splurge on the higher cost, provided your tractor can recharge an AGM battery without damaging it.

On that note, determining the best tractor battery for your needs may come down to the specifics of your tractor. If it’s a recent model compatible with AGM batteries, the upsides are yours to seize. But an older tractor might not reap as many benefits, and if you’re concerned about charging compatibility, sticking with a traditional flooded lead-acid battery might be best. If in doubt, consult a professional to determine the best tractor battery for your situation.

This article about the best tractor battery was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

 

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Chickens 101 Poultry

How Long Do Chickens Live & Produce Eggs

How long do chickens live is a common question and one that’s, mistakenly, been driven by commercial egg farms. Here’s how long your chickens can live and be productive.

How Long Do Chickens Live? Commerical Farm vs. Backyard Birds

A common misconception that some new backyard flock owners have is that hens are only useful until they are 3 years old. Once they’ve reached this landmark age, their production plummets and their value zeroes out.

When your hens have reached the end of their prime laying days, some say it’s best to euthanize them or use them for soup.

As shocking as this misbelief may be, it’s easy to understand where it comes from. Most commercial egg farms keep their layers until the hens reach 2 to 3 years of age. Once their laying stock reaches this age, commercial farms generally dispose of their hens, refreshing their flocks with pullets just past point-of-lay.

Because of this commercial practice, those new to chicken-keeping often assume it’s also standard operating procedure for backyard flocks. They couldn’t be more wrong.

Small Flock Facts

Hens may live in backyard flocks for 6 to 8 years (or more!), and most flocks will produce eggs for 3 to 4 years. “The level of egg production, egg size and shell quality [however] decrease each year,” writes Sandra Stuttgen, associate professor with the University of Wisconsin Division of Extension, in “Life Cycle of a Laying Hen.” “Most commercial layers are kept for 2 to 3 years as their egg production decreases after this time. To keep a small flock producing, owners should plan to retire old hens and add young hens (pullets) every 2 to 3 years.”

In “Factors Affecting Egg Production In Backyard Chicken Flocks,” the authors note that the laying cycle of a chicken flock usually covers a span of about 12 months. “Egg production begins when the birds reach about 18 to 22 weeks of age, depending on the breed and season,” they write. “Flock production rises sharply and reaches a peak of about 90%, 6 to 8 weeks later. Production then gradually declines to about 65% after 12 months of lay.”

The decline in productivity varies greatly from bird to bird. The researchers state that good layers will lay for about 50 to 60 weeks and then have a rest period (when they molt). Poorer layers and older hens will molt more often and lay less consistently.

While it’s true that a hen’s egg production begins to decline after age 3, it’s by no means over. With a proper diet, plenty of fresh water, sufficient natural light and a safe living environment, a layer can continue to produce eggs for 5 to 10 years. She may only lay an egg every couple of weeks, but she’ll sing her egg song as proudly and loudly as the yearlings.

how-long-do-chickens-live
An old hen may not be a prime layer anymore, but she’ll still have a use around the farm.
LDC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Lifespan Factors

Many factors affect the lifespan of a chicken. Poor nutrition plays a key role in a hen’s longevity. If not fed a layer ration specifically formulated with the percentages of protein and calcium needed for proper egg production, a hen will draw these building-block nutrients from her own body’s reservoirs, directly impacting her health.

Similarly, continual egg production can negatively impact the lifespan of chickens. Even if fed a nutritious layer ration, daily or near-daily production exhausts and depletes a hen, causing caged-layer fatigue. Allowing laying hens to rest and recuperate during the shorter daylight months can help extend their lives.

Other factors that affect a hen’s lifespan include a safe, clean living environment; poultry illness and parasites; the presence of predators; and the type of chicken she is. Production hybrids will typically have a shorter lifespan than dual-purpose and heritage-breed chickens.

Extending the life of laying hens promotes their well-being and contributes to sustainable egg production. Here are several ways to ensure a longer and healthier life for these birds.

Meat Birds

The age of chickens used for meat can vary from 6 weeks to 1½ years old. Chickens labeled as:

Broiler-fryers are young, tender chickens about 7 weeks old;

Roasters are older chickens, about 3 to 5 months old;

Capons are male chickens about 16 weeks to 8 months old;

Stewing/Baking Hens are mature laying hens 10 months to 1½ years old.

Source: USDA

Proper Nutrition: Laying hens require a diet tailored to their needs. Adequate calcium is crucial for strong eggshells, so consider providing crushed oyster shells or calcium supplements.

Clean Water: Clean and fresh water is essential for digestion and overall health. Ensure water containers are free from contaminants and regularly cleaned to prevent disease transmission.

Adequate Space: Overcrowding can lead to stress and aggression among hens. Providing ample space in the coop and run allows hens to move freely, stretch their wings, and prevents injuries.

Predator Protection: Secure the coop and run with sturdy fencing, and use hardware cloth to deter predators. Lock hens inside the coop at night to protect them from nocturnal threats.

Regular Veterinary Care: Establish a relationship with an avian veterinarian who can perform routine check-ups, administer vaccinations and offer guidance on health management.

Clean Environment: Regularly clean the coop, remove droppings and replace bedding material to prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria and parasites. Good ventilation is also crucial for air quality.

Social Interaction: Chickens are social animals and thrive on interaction with their flock. Ensure they have companionship to reduce stress and boredom.

Enrichment: Provide objects for hens to peck at and scratch, such as hanging vegetables or straw bales. This stimulates mental and physical activity, reducing the risk of feather pecking and cannibalism.

Egg Collection: Collect eggs daily to discourage broodiness and egg-eating. Leaving eggs in the nest can lead to problems such as broken eggs and hens going broody, which can negatively affect their health.

How Long Can Hens Live?

Given a safe, clean and stress-free living environment, with winters off to rest and replenish their bodies, and plenty of nutritious food and clean water, hens can live as long as 8 to 10 years … and quite possibly longer. According to the Guinness Book of Records, the record for the world’s oldest chicken is held by Muffy, an American Game bantam who died at the age of 22. I’ve had several that lived longer than 7 and even 10 years. One of our hens had two daughters at the ripe old age of 6! By providing excellent care, protection, and attention to these factors, you can help your backyard chickens live longer, healthier lives and enjoy the benefits of egg production and companionship for many years.

This article about how long to chickens live was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Chickens 101 Health & Nutrition Poultry Uncategorized

Impacted Crop: How to Identify & Treat in Chickens

Impacted crop is a common emergency that all chicken keepers should know how to identify and treat early. Secondary problems, such as sour crop, or even death can result when the condition is left untreated.

The crop helps chickens avoid spending all day out in the open foraging for food. Think of the crop as a “holding tank” for everything your chickens eat. Thanks to the crop, chickens can quickly gorge themselves on a great deal of food, and then go hide somewhere safe to digest it all over the next few hours. This, in turn, limits their exposure to potential predators. The problem with crops is that when a chicken eats too many things, she just can’t digest, and it gets blocked, or impacted.

What is the Crop?

The crop is a small muscle pouch located on the right side of the breast, in the center below the neck. The purpose of the crop is to hold food until it can be digested in the proventriculus (stomach) and gizzard. As the chicken eats, the crop grows larger, until it’s about the size of a golf ball or a bit larger. Once the crop is full, the chicken stops eating and usually goes somewhere safe to rest and digest her meal. It typically takes two to four hours for the crop to empty entirely.

When the digestive system is working as it should, a chicken’s crop will be very full and distended at the end of the day. She’ll digest her food overnight, and the crop will be completely empty and flat the next morning.

an-impacted-crop
A chicken’s crop is located on the middle right side of their breast. Crops are usually full at the end of the day, as the birds go in to roost, but if it’s still full first thing in the morning, then your bird has likely developed an impaction. (Photo by Heather Levin)

What Causes Impacted Crop

Chickens will eat a wide variety of things, especially if they’re allowed to free-range. However, we run into problems when they eat things they can’t digest!

Chickens that eat the following can develop an impaction.

  • long, fibrous grass or hay
  • string, rope or twist ties
  • feathers
  • bedding or litter (including wood chips, sand or shavings)
  • plastic or metal trash
  • hard, indigestible fruit skins (such as banana peels or avocado skins)

Chickens that are kept in a run and then suddenly allowed to free-range can also develop an impaction by suddenly gorging themselves on long grasses and other natural fibers in the yard.

So how do you know your chicken has an impacted crop? Look for the following symptoms.

  • reduced appetite
  • lethargy or depression
  • weight loss
  • hard, distended crop visible early in the morning

How to Find a Crop

To find a chicken’s crop, choose a bird that you know has eaten recently. You’ll have the most success finding the crop if you do it late in the day when it’s sure to be full of food.

Pick up your chicken with her tail toward you and her beak facing away from you. Hold her like you would a football, and use your hand to gently feel the center right side of her breast. The crop will feel like a firm or doughy ball.

It’s important to familiarize yourself with the location of the crop and its typical size and texture before you have to deal with an impaction.

How to Test For Impaction

The only sure way to know if your chicken has an impacted crop is to feel the crop first thing in the morning, before your chickens eat or drink anything.

A chicken’s crop is at varying stages of fullness throughout the day. However, the crop empties completely overnight, while the chicken sleeps. So, every healthy chicken should have a flat, empty crop when they come out of the coop first thing in the morning.

To test for impaction, go out to the coop first thing in the morning and feel your chicken’s crop. A chicken with a hard, full crop in the morning is suffering from an impaction.

an-impacted-crop
When a chicken’s crop is empty, its breast will look flat and smooth. Birds with a very full crop will have a breast that is more rounded and bulges out.
(Photo by Heather Levin)

Treating Impacted Crop

There are several things you can do to treat mild to moderate cases of impacted crop. Mild impactions are when the crop is the size of a baseball or smaller.

1. Isolate & Withhold Food: One strategy to treat a mild case of impacted crop is to put the bird in isolation and withhold food for 24 to 48 hours. Make sure your chicken has access to plenty of fresh, clean water during this time. The more water you can get her to drink, the more it will help get matter moving through the crop. Her isolation cage or area should also be warm and stress-free.

2. Use Herbs: You can also give her a calming, cooled herbal tea in place of water to help her relax while she’s in isolation. Herbs such as chamomile, lemon balm, catnip and lavender all work well.

Chamomile is especially good to give impacted birds because it’s an excellent digestive aid and helps ease cramping and bloating. It’s also a mucilage, which might help get the items in the crop moving. Other mucilaginous herbs include marshmallow, fennel, and fenugreek. Given as a tea, these herbs might help get the fibrous material in the crop moving again. Adding turmeric to your chicken’s water while she’s going through treatment can help prevent sour crop, a secondary condition that often piggybacks on an impaction. Sour crop is caused when the contents of the crop start to ferment, and an overgrowth of Candida yeast develops. Numerous studies, including“Anti-Candida Activity of Curcumin: A Systematic Review ” (bit.ly/3PzWUTs) in Current Drug Discovery Technologies (Vol. 18, No. 3, 2021), have found that turmeric is an effective natural treatment for Candida overgrowths.

3. Massage the Crop: If your chicken still has an impacted crop after 24 to 48 hours of isolation and fasting, try massaging the crop.

To do this you’ll need a syringe or eye dropper, olive or vegetable oil, and lukewarm water. First, mix 1 tablespoon of oil with ¼ cup of lukewarm water and mix. Quickly fill the syringe or dropper with up to 10 milliliters of the oil and water mixture, and slowly dribble it into your chicken’s beak. This might be a two-person job, as you’ll have to hold the bird and open her beak by hand to do this.

If your chicken starts coughing, stop immediately and give her a minute to rest and catch her breath. Once you’ve gotten the oil and water mixture down the esophagus, gently massage the crop from top to bottom for three minutes.

Do this entire process several times throughout the day.

4. Try Epsom Salt: You can also try to flush the chicken’s crop with Epsom salt. If you try this treatment, use the recipe developed by Gail Damerow in The Chicken Health Handbook.

Mix 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt with ½ cup of water, and dribble into the chicken’s mouth twice daily for up to three days.

5. Transition to Soft Food: Once you notice your chicken’s crop is smaller or softer, reintroduce foods slowly. Opt for soft, easy-to-digest foods such as scrambled or hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, fermented feed or soft, cooked vegetables.

Once you notice that the crop is emptying out completely every night, you can reintroduce her back to the flock.

If the impaction has not cleared up after several days of treatment, your next option is to take the chicken to a poultry vet to clear the crop manually or surgically remove the items impacting the crop. These procedures should be done by a licensed vet, as it’s very easy to injure or kill your chicken attempting either of them at home.

Although impaction is a serious condition, regular crop checks and paying attention to your chickens’ behavior can help you spot it early and take action while it can still be treated.

This article about impacted crop was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry Sponsored

Everything You Need to Know Before Buying Chicks

Baby Chick Checklist

Getting You And Your Baby Chicks Started Off Right

You’ve decided to enter the wonderful world of raising your own chickens as either layers or broilers. Maybe it’s been a while since you started your last batch of chicks, or you might be new to the game altogether. Either way, with a little forethought and a few supplies, you will be hearing little “cheeps” in no time.

The first thing you need to decide is which breed you’d like to raise. Are you looking for hearty breeds—like Golden Comets—for brown egg production? Or, a nice broiler bird, such as the White Plymouth Rock? Maybe you want something more fashionable like the Silkie? Don’t worry—while there are many different breeds, they all share similar needs in the beginning.

During the hatching process when a baby chick is pipping out of the eggshell, it pulls the remaining egg yolk into its body, giving it a food supply lasting a day or two. This is what allows them to be shipped safely through mail. It’s also why we can spend more time creating their new environment instead of worrying about getting them to eat as soon as they arrive.

Helpful housing tips:

  • Keep chicks in a draft-free environment, but make sure they have adequate ventilation.
  • Plan on one square foot of floor space per chick until they reach 12 weeks of age.
  • There are many options for bedding but stay away from fine sawdust because chicks may inadvertently eat it.
  • To help clean up when the birds are away, first place a couple of layers of newspaper on the floor, followed by approximately four inches of bedding—try paper towels at first if the newspaper proves too slippery for the chicks at first.
  • Along with making clean up easier, the paper barrier helps discourage the chicks from eating the bedding.
  • Keep the bedding dry to reduce the risk of disease. If wet spots do occur, add dry bedding rather than removing the wet to keep molds and other hazards from being released into the air.

Next, you need a plan to keep the birds warm. If you don’t have access to a commercial brooder, heat lamps make a great substitute. Position the lamps so the temperature at “bird-level” is between 90 – 95 degrees when they first arrive. Raise the lamp each week just enough to lower the temperature by five degrees. In about a month, you will reach 70 degrees. At that point, the chicks are fine to go into almost any environment.

Be careful not to place the lamp too close to the walls: If the chicks get too cold, they may pile on top of each other and suffocate the birds on the bottom while trying to get closer to the heat.

Place the heat lamp towards an edge or end of the pen with the birds equally spread between the light and the rest of the pen You can use a chick guard—or cardboard fence—for the first ten days to keep the birds closer to the heat, feed, and water. Use 15 watts of light per 200 square feet of floor space, keeping it on 24 hours a day for the first week, 16 hours a day for weeks two through six, and 13 hours a day for weeks six through 12.

In terms of feed and water, you can pick up feeders and waters at your local farm supply store or order online. For water, avoid bowls since they can spill, and chicks can fall in and drown. For feed, utilize a chick starter feed, like Homestead Chick Starter/Grower—this feed is formulated for optimal development of the digestive tract and other internal organ systems. Additionally, you don’t need to offer grit when supplying Homestead Chick Starter/Grower. Additionally, if you want to keep your new birds hydrated when they first arrive home, feel free to add an electrolyte, found at your feed store, to their water.

As you’re getting started if you run into any specific problems, there are all kinds of resources online and through Hubbard Feeds to help you out. Visit the Hubbard Feeds website to learn more about Poultry care and nutrition: https://www.hubbardfeeds.com/species/backyard-poultry.

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Health & Nutrition Poultry

Poultry Veterinarians: How to Find Help for Your Flock

A poultry veterinarian is your last though when all is well in your coop. Your birds are bright-eyed, active and eating everything you give them. You have little reason to think about what you’ll do if one of your birds gets sick — until it happens.

If you keep chickens, the day will come when you go out to check on your flock and find a bird that’s not doing well. Maybe she’s lethargic and not interested in food. Maybe she’s not walking right. Or maybe she has an open wound that came from another hen or even a predator. If you live in an urban or suburban area, small-animal vets are plentiful, but where do you take a sick chicken?

Chickens Need Vets

Backyard flock owners often opt to try to treat their birds at home and don’t seek out the advice of a poultry veterinarian. This is often not in the best interest of the birds, according to veterinarians who specialize in poultry care.

In a 2014 study in the journal Poultry Science, only 16% to 24% of backyard chicken owners pursued veterinary care for their birds, according to avian veterinarian Nick Kirk of Migratory Avian Services in Nashville, Tennessee. Only 18.8% of owners in the same study sought information from veterinarians, in comparison to 87.4% seeking information on the internet.

poultry-veterinarian-3
Bumblefoot, a painful process within the foot of a chicken, can require surgical intervention that should only be performed by a veterinarian with experience in avian medicine.
CHAD ROBERTSON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“In contrast to those numbers, there was a lack of knowledge of common diseases contracted by chickens,” he says. “These include avian influenza, Marek’s disease and exotic Newcastle disease. Avian influenza and exotic Newcastle disease are zoonotic, or can be transmitted to humans. Avian influenza has just recently been in the news, and owners with chickens should be very aware of the potential effects on their flocks as well as their human family members. This is where an avian veterinarian is important to have associated with your flock. We are aware of multiple diseases outside of these common ones and keep up to date with what is going on locally and nationally.”

In addition to these common diseases, chickens are affected by multiple conditions that aren’t suitable for diagnosis or treatment by someone without a veterinary license.

“For example, there are multiple websites that will give you ‘at home’ therapies for bumblefoot,” Kirk says. “Bumblefoot is a painful process within the foot of a chicken, and if severe, needs surgical intervention. Only a veterinarian with experience in avian medicine would be able to properly diagnose and treat this condition in a humane manner.”

For Crystal Matt, an associate veterinarian at the Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic of Indianapolis, Indiana, it’s important for chicken owners to use a veterinarian for several reasons.

“The primary reason is that an owner’s assumption about what might be happening with their bird is often incorrect,” she says. “The majority of egg-binding or sour crop cases presented to me end up being far more complicated than that.” As an example, Matt explains that sour crop develops when the crop isn’t emptying normally. Owners assume this is a crop problem when it’s usually something completely different that is simply causing a backup into the crop.

“I’ve seen delayed crop emptying from tons of different diseases, like metal poisoning, reproductive diseases, heart failure and even one chicken that ate an entire towel!” she says.

Matt has also seen dozens of cases of well-intentioned owners trying to treat medical problems on their own — such as cutting open bumblefoot, giving medications from other pets, even trying to pull out an egg — that end up causing far worse damage to the bird.

poultry-veterinarian-5
A vet not properly trained in avian medicine can misinterpret radiographs and X-rays.
PORTRAITGUY1979/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“There is a lot of misinformation on the internet that often leads to delayed medical care, worsening of the underlying condition, or additional problems that weren’t present initially,” she says.

Finally, birds are pros at hiding signs of illness, which is why it’s a good idea to have a veterinarian exam your birds, even when they appear healthy.

“As prey animals, they naturally try to act like everything is perfectly fine until they absolutely can’t hide it any longer,” Matt says.

“This means that if an owner is seeing signs of illness, it’s likely far worse than the bird is letting on. Routine health exams are an important part of keeping a healthy flock.”

Poultry Veterinarian: Special Training

If you have a chicken in need of vet care, ideally you’ll take your bird to a poultry veterinarian who is specially trained in avian medicine. Avian specialists are board-certified with the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners as Avian Practice Diplomates, and with good reason. They have studied bird anatomy and know the ins and outs of what can affect the health of poultry.

Board-certified avian and exotics veterinarian Cheryl Greenacre is a professor of Avian and Zoological Medicine at the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine. She says that it’s important to seek out the services of a boarded veterinarian to treat your companion poultry as birds are very different from dogs, cats and horses, and require knowledge of the avian anatomy, physiology and disease processes that are unique to birds.

Greenacre goes on to say that any licensed veterinarian can legally examine, diagnose and treat a chicken or other poultry, but many veterinary schools don’t teach avian medicine as part of their curriculum.

poultry-veterinarian-1
The average veterinarian in private practice mostly sees cats and dogs and probably has a very limited knowledge of avian medicine.
MERRIMONC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“Some veterinarians have additional experience most likely advertised as an interest in treating poultry, or they are a member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians and have obtained continuing education on poultry and other birds beyond what they learned in veterinary school,” she says.

Jessica Grodio is a house-call poultry veterinarian with Avian Home Veterinary Care, serving the Duchess County, New York area. She notes that at most — or at possibly all — veterinary schools in the United States, students receive very little avian-specific training, unless they intentionally search for this experience or take elective courses offered on birds and exotics.

“The average veterinarian in private practice who sees cats and dogs, unless they have specifically sought out numerous continuing education opportunities, may have a very limited knowledge of avian medicine,” she says. “Birds have very different anatomy than mammals and often the dosages of medications we use in birds are different than the dosages we use in mammals. So it is important for vets to have a good understanding of avian anatomy and medicine if they decide to offer services to birds.”

Grodio has seen vets not properly trained in avian medicine misinterpret radiographs, prescribe specific antibiotics to chickens that are prohibited in food animals and give birds medications that avian vets may not regularly use.

“For example, steroids can be severely immunosuppressive in birds, so they should be used with extreme caution and only for very good reasons,” she says.

Poultry Veterinarian: Plan B

Given these realities, backyard chicken owners should consult a board-certified avian veterinary specialist when their birds get sick. But what if you can’t find a vet like this in your area?

“If there are still no avian vets in your area, try asking local clinics if they are comfortable treating birds,” Matt says. “Ideally, this should be done before problems arise. It is also important to find a vet willing to see birds on an after-hours or emergency basis, as most dog and cat clinics are unwilling. Universities with vet schools may have exotics programs and are often a reliable source for both emergency and routine care. You can also talk to your local pet store for ideas. If they have birds for sale, they should have a vet willing to see the birds if they get sick.”

If a boarded poultry veterinarian is unavailable in your area, at least seek the services of someone who has a demonstrated interest in avian and poultry medicine. “Always establish a relationship with a veterinarian in your area prior to needing one in an emergency, as many emergency practices are not familiar with birds,” Greenacre says.

When you find a vet who expresses an interest in treating your chicken but isn’t board-certified, inquire about what type of training the veterinarian has received in avian medicine.

“Many veterinarians are members of the Association of Avian Veterinarians, which is great, as that organization provides continuing education opportunities, client education handouts, etc., to its veterinary members,” Grodio says. “But keep in mind, a veterinarian only needs to pay annual dues to be a member of that organization. Being a member is certainly not equivalent to going through a two-to-three-year avian residency, sitting for a difficult avian board exam and becoming board-certified. But being a member does show that the veterinarian at least has an interest in birds.”

Kirk agrees that finding a poultry veterinarian can be challenging for many backyard flock owners but recommends reaching out to the veterinarian you use for your other animals for a referral.

“Get recommendations from your primary care veterinarian on vets in your area who will see chickens,” he says. “You should have an established relationship with a veterinarian, preferably an avian veterinarian, prior to any problems occurring within your flock.”

Grodio recommends also reaching out to a specialist outside your area to work with your local vet. “Some avian specialists may be willing to offer consulting services,” she says. “They may be able to consult with your local vet to review X-rays and lab work, and discuss your bird’s case in more detail, to help your vet develop a treatment plan.”

Find a Specialist

Although board-certified avian vets can be difficult to find, it’s worth looking to see if one is located within driving distance of your home. You can locate American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, Avian Practice Diplomates in the United States by using the AVPB “Find an ABVP Specialist” tool at www.abvp.com/find-an-abvp-specialist.

You can also look for vets with an interest in treating poultry in the Association of Avian Veterinarians database located online at www.aav.org/FindAVet.

This article was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.