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Growing Good Podcast #76: Florentina Rodriguez, urban farmer and seed advocate

Categories
Food Recipes

Smoked Trout: Recipe & Instructions

Smoked trout is a delicious way to celebrate your lake catches from a fun day of fishing or fish farming yields. Here’s how…

Ingredients & Supplies

  • 2 lake trout fillets
  • 2 cups kosher salt, more as needed
  • 2 tablespoons garlic powder
  • 9-by-13 glass tray
  • plastic wrap
  • plate to fit fillets

Smoked Trout Preparation

Freeze trout for a minimum of seven days to kill off parasites.

Thaw the fish fillets. Rinse them off, and pat them dry.

Layer a large glass container with salt. Lay the fillets skin down. Season the fillets with garlic powder and other seasonings if you desire. (I only seasoned them with garlic powder because I don’t like to overpower the flavor.) Liberally cover the fish with the remaining salt until completely covered. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for six hours.

After six hours, remove the fillets from the salt and rinse thoroughly. Pat the fillets dry and place them on a glass plate, uncovered, overnight. This process creates a dry layer over the surface of the fish’s flesh. It’s a protective barrier for the meat and enhances the flavor and color of the smoked trout.

Ideally, you want to smoke the fish at the lowest temperature for your smoker — about 140°F or so. (Unfortunately, my aunt’s smoker wouldn’t get below 160 degrees. The good news is that it doesn’t really need to. It will cook a little quicker, but it’ll still smoke up a nice fish.)

smoked-trout
Stephanie Thurow

Smoke for two hours at the closest temperature you can get to 140 degrees and increase the heat by about 20 degrees every hour. We ended up around 200 degrees for the last two hours, because the smoker was running a bit hot.

It took me a total of six hours to get the fish to an internal temperature of 160°F and this temperature needs to be held for at least 30 minutes to be considered safe for consumption.

You can enjoy the fish warm off the smoker or you can refrigerate it and serve it cold. The choice is yours. Eat within five days or freeze for up to six months.

For more information on how to properly smoke fish at home, please check out Smoking Fish at Home – Safely by the Pacific Northwest Extension Publication.

This smoked trout recipe was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry Waterfowl

Drake Ducks: 10 Reasons to Keep Them

Drake ducks are an essential part of every duck flock. From factory farms to small backyard flocks with bantam ducks, duck owners everywhere are adding a few drakes to their flock for their vital role in a healthy, well-balanced flock. So, without further adieu, let’s begin the countdown to why every flock needs a drake duck.

#10 Fertile Eggs

It might go without saying, but fertile duck eggs are why many duck owners keep a drake. Hatching and raising ducklings from your backyard flock has many perks, as there is no need to worry about spreading infection or disease from newly acquired ducks to an existing flock.

Preserving a rare breed is another benefit to keeping a drake. Whether you are selling fertile eggs for a side business or raising ducklings from your backyard flock, Drake Ducks will help make your dreams a reality.

How Many Ducks Per Drake?

How many ducks should you have per drake? The answer depends on the breed of drake and ducks you are raising and their weight category. Before choosing a drake for your flock, consider the breed(s) of hens in your flock. This is a crucial decision, as housing a heavyweight drake with lightweight females may result in accidental injuries or the death of the hens. At the same time, a vigorous lightweight drake may exhaust placid heavyweight hens.

two drake ducks are walking in the backyard
Two Drake Ducks

Drake Ducks Per Hens Guidelines

Heavyweight- 3-4 hens per drake

Mediumweight- 3-5 hens per drake

Lightweight- 4-6 hens per drake

Bantam-1-2 hens per drake

#9 Increased Egg Production

Housing a drake with your flock may help to increase egg production. While no one knows why, female ducks tend to lay more eggs when a drake duck is present in the flock.

When housing drakes with ducks to increase egg production, follow the ducks to drake guidelines (above) to ensure a well-balanced flock, as too many drakes per hen ratio will decrease egg production.

#8 Guard Ducks

Male ducks are excellent at spotting danger. Our Welsh Harlequin drake is the first one to notice a bird of prey and will sound the alarm to warn our duck and chicken flocks of the danger.

Drakes are always on the lookout while the females feed, looking for potential danger. From cats, hawks, neighborhood dogs, or trash blowing across the yard, drakes will sound the alarm to warn the flock of any threat.

While drakes are excellent at spotting predators, they can not defend themselves or their flock from an attack. Instead of free-ranging ducks, house them in a safe predator-proof pen and lock them in a secure coop at night.

Two white drake ducks in the coop
White Drake Ducks

#7 Noise Levels

Unlike roosters, drake ducks are very quiet. While their soft noises carry surprisingly far distances, their noise levels are minimal. This trait puts them at an advantage for individuals who like ducks but do not enjoy the loud quacking of the females.

#6 Drake Ducks: A Show-Stopping Display

Anyone who has stopped to watch a drake perform courtship displays can testify to how amazing these shows can be. Drake ducks twist their bodies in various movements, make a whistle, and spray water with their bills to impress their hens.

Some drakes display throughout the year, but most occur during fall and winter when duck courtship takes place.

#5 Garden Helpers

All ducks make excellent gardening companions, but drakes are less destructive than females. While females go through the garden ripping up plants and looking for grubs and other larvae, drakes are content to chase flying insects or snack on beetles hiding among the garden plants.

Drake ducks are usually less destructive on lawns, too. Although some male ducks will rip up large clumps of grass looking for grubs, most are content to let the females do the ripping.

#4 Natural Lifestyle

As backyard flock owners, we want to provide our ducks with as much natural life as possible. Adding a drake to your flock of females will allow everyone to experience a more natural way of life.

Although courting and breeding may seem insignificant to the flock owner, ducks instinctively engage in these behaviors. While some flock owners believe female ducks will be happier without males, most females enjoy hanging out with a drake.

A white drake duck is walking near some pumpkins in the backyard
A White Drake Duck

#3 Making a Difference for Drake Ducks

Did you know? Many backyard duck flock keepers do not keep their drakes. Because they don’t lay eggs, many drake ducks find themselves homeless. Whether sitting in a cage in an animal shelter or trying to survive alone on a public pond, many drakes need a home. Adding even one drake to your flock helps reduce the number of homeless and abandoned drakes.

#2 Peaceful Pecking Order

One of the best ways to ensure harmony among ducks is to keep a drake in the flock. Drakes help to solve disputes among female flock members and prevent fighting. This behavior helps to avoid injuries from other flock members.

Bear in mind that while drakes help to prevent fighting among female flock members, they can be very aggressive towards each other. In most situations, it is best to house each drake separately with his flock of hens.

#1 Friendly Pets

Drake ducks make delightful, friendly pets, especially when imprinted on humans. They love interacting with people. Male ducks bond differently with humans than female ducks and are described as being more affectionate.

Unlike roosters, drakes have gentle personalities and pose no threat to small children. Their tame disposition makes them excellent pets for families with children.

With their soft quack, beautiful plumage, and curly tail feather, what isn’t there to like about a drake? Drake ducks improve the overall quality of the duck flock and complete our backyard flock. So, if you are considering adding ducks to your backyard flock, consider adding a drake, too.

This article about drake ducks was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Apple Tree Varieties: Why DNA Testing Can Make Sense

Apple tree varieties are abundant throughout North America. Not only named varieties, but wild varieties that arise from chance seedlings.

When you plant a young apple tree from a nursery, you know what variety you’re growing. That’s not the case with wild apple trees, or mature apple trees growing on an old farm. In these instances, DNA tests can help reveal what apple tree varieties you have.

Benefits of DNA Testing Apple Tree Varieties

Conducting DNA testing on apple trees is a relatively new avenue for identifying specimens and their ancestry. DNA tests can provide several benefits. While much work can be done to identify old trees based on their fruit appearance, ripening time, and more, it’s an inexact science with margin for error. DNA testing isn’t foolproof, but it may be able to determine with a high degree of confidence the apple tree varieties growing on your farm.


Also Read: How to Protect Apple Tree Branches From Breaking

 

 


Wild apple trees won’t be identifiable as specific varieties, since they aren’t propagated by grafting and thus don’t retain the cloned genetics of a specific desirable tree. Apple trees generally aren’t self-fertile, so a wild tree grown from an apple seed contains a mix of DNA from the tree that produced the apple and the tree that pollinated the original blossom. However, DNA testing may be able to pin down the probable parentage of a wild tree.

Should I DNA test my apple trees?

If you’re curious and have old or wild apple trees on your farm, you may want to DNA test your trees simply for enjoyment. But tests can be expensive—sometimes more than $100 apiece—so it’s a meaningful investment if you have many trees to sample. Is it worth it?

There are some practical reasons to DNA test apple trees. If you sell apples from one of your old farm trees, being able to say “I DNA tested this tree and it came back as Duchess of Oldenburg” is a more compelling sales pitch than “I don’t know what variety these are.”

Here’s another example—suppose a wild tree that grew from seed on your farm produces huge, sweet, juicy apples. Maybe you’ve discovered an awesome new apple tree variety worth reproducing. A DNA test can give you an idea of the tree’s parents, which are probably two of the other apple trees on your farm, or a close neighbor’s farm if they have apple trees too.

Shortcomings of Apple Tree DNA Testing

Before you invest in a bunch of apple tree DNA tests, it’s worth reiterating that research is ongoing and you may not receive the results you desire. You may find that the ancestry of a wild tree is too murky to definitively determine. Or an old tree you assumed was a particular named variety (like Duchess of Oldenburg) might turn out to be a different variety or no particular variety at all. What if it’s actually a wild tree?


Also Read: History of Apples


However, if the idea of learning about apple tree ancestry fascinates you, DNA testing may be worthwhile even with the shortcomings in mind. When coupled with visual clues (such as fruit and leaf appearance) and some research into the history of your farm and region, DNA testing can tell you a lot about your favorite old and wild trees.

This article about apple tree varieties and DNA testing was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Poultry

Rooster Spurs: How to Protect Hens from Damage

Rooster spurs look intimidating and can do damage not only to people but also to hens. This can look unsightly if you’re trying to take pictures of your flock and it can result in scrapes and cuts that require attention. Here’s why this happens and how to protect your hens.

Rooster Spurs: How Damage Is Caused

It’s not that roosters intend to injure their hens’ backs. It is a result of mating. To mate, a rooster has to climb onto the hen’s back and then line up his reproductive parts with hers — all without opposable thumbs.

To not continually slip off while mating, the rooster has to hold on to his partner’s neck with his beak. However, that’s only enough to keep his head and torso steady. His lower half is in peril of falling off to the side, thus preventing the alignment necessary to fertilize eggs.

rooster spurs in backyard
rooster spurs

To keep steady a rooster uses his spurs to “tread” the hen’s back. It’s similar to treading water. A rooster continually steps on a hen’s back to keep himself from falling off.

The result, unfortunately, is that the rooster spurs break or yank out the poor hen’s back feathers. By mid-summer, the “popular” girl looks like she’s been through the wringer. The extent of the damage to a hen’s plumage constantly varies. I’ve had gentle giants who very politely mount a hen, quickly do their business, and then leave as the hen stands and shakes herself out with nary a feather out of place. I’ve had young guns who are so intent that they fail to realize they’re practically flaying the female. 

Rooster Spurs: Stopping the Damage

I’ve tried various remedies to the bare-back situation over the years. One of the worst approaches was to keep the roosters separate from the girls and only put them together to mate. That didn’t work out at all.

Not only did the boys continually fight, but they practically all-out assaulted the hens when they were reunited to mate.

Some people recommend increasing the ratio of roosters to hens to share the love more evenly. This does not work. Having more hens only means having more hens to protect. More available hens to the roosters is like spreading a smorgasbord in front of them. 

Two Solutions to Protect Hens

The two methods that actually help hens are far less expensive and far less stressful for both humans and the birds.

1. Hen Aprons

Hen aprons are little outfits consisting of a back piece that completely covers the affected area, plus elastic loops that cross in front of the hen’s neck and loop around each wing. The aprons fit snugly and stay on securely, protecting the damaged area by placing fabric between the rooster and the hen.

I’ve yet to have a hen remove her apron.

Some seem to like their aprons so much that I leave them on even after the feathers have all grown back. It does take a hen a bit of adjusting time to become accustomed to the apron. This usually manifests by a hen walking awkwardly backward and sitting down unintentionally. This usually lasts only a couple of days. 

2. Desheath the Rooster Spurs

The other solution to a spur-raked back is to remove the rooster’s spurs. Or rather, the outer sheath that covers the spur.

A rooster’s spur is actually skeletal. It’s part of the leg bone. Cutting off entire spurs would be cruel, not to mention crippling, to your rooster. The sheath, however, is made of keratin—the same protein found in a chicken’s beak, claws and feathers.

This sheath can be easily removed by the potato method:

  • Bake a medium-sized potato (in a conventional, toaster or microwave oven)
  • While the potato is hot, firmly hold your rooster, then wrap a small rag or towel around his leg under the spur. Impale the potato on the spur to within a half inch of the rooster’s leg. Do not let the potato touch his leg. This can cause a painful burn.
  • Wait for approximately five minutes. Remove the potato and set it aside.
  • With a pair of pliers, take hold of the outer spur and gently twist in one direction. The sheath should pop right off. If it doesn’t, apply the potato for a few more minutes, then try again.
  • Repeat on the other leg (you may need to warm the potato up again before doing the other leg). Feel free to chop up the potato and give it to your rooster as a treat afterward.

Without his pointy spurs, a romantic rooster will not tear up a hen’s back to the degree that he did with spurs on. However, the downside is that he will also not be able to face off against a predator as efficiently, since his chief weapon has been removed.

Should you live in an area frequented by raccoons, weasels or other carnivorous creatures, a bare-backed hen might be the trade-off for your rooster keeping your flock safe.

This article about rooster spurs was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Raising Chickens for Beginners: The Teenage Days

Raising chickens for beginners not only includes day-old chicks but also the results about eight weeks later as those chicks turn into gangly little cockerels and pullets with scruffy feathers, big feet (especially the males) and attitudes—constantly bopping each other with their wings or using their tiny beaks as weapons.

Welcome to the world of teenage chickens, that in-between stage when our chooks are no longer chicks but also aren’t full-fledged (pun intended) roosters and hens. This time is also when the mother hen and her offspring seem to mutually agree that the time of mama shepherding them through their day is kaput.

Raising Chickens for Beginners: Teenage Behavior

Tom Watkins, president of McMurray Hatchery, gives insight on raising chickens for beginners during their teenage time.

“Basically around 6 to 8 weeks after hatching, the mother hen senses it’s time to stop protecting her chicks,” he says. “If the mother and her young are in a run with other hens and their young flocks, the hen may not even know or care which chicks were once hers.


Also Read: 3 Reasons To Raise Chickens


“On the other hand, the former chicks are no longer looking for their mother to provide protection or food. Besides, the mother is likely no longer giving the food cluck to her young. If she’s found some kind of bug, for example, she’s likely eating it herself.”

3 cockerels pullets chickens in the backyard
cockerels pullets chickens

This new independent time can illicit some interesting behaviors as teenagers are chest bumping fellow flock mates and even their mothers. For the mothers, they can show the teenagers who’s boss with some beak pecks to the offender.

According to Watkins, “After the mother hen is through raising her chicks, she is still going to want to be on top of the pecking order. It’s instinctive.”

More Space = Less Conflict

Watkins relates that conflicts among teenage chickens become fewer if birds can be put out to pasture. When a teenage chook has a chance to escape its tormenting flock members, skirmishes are less likely as each pullet and cockerel is off doing its proverbial own thing. Indeed, at this contentious stage of chicken development, letting birds range about for a few hours every day is one of the best ways to defuse issues among flock members.


Also Read: 7 Chicken Breeds to Raise for Colorful Eggs


“I don’t care whether you have six birds or 200, letting your chickens free-range for at least a short time every day is good for them and heads off problems that result from being cooped up,” Watkins says.

“Being outside on pasture also helps chicks and teenagers develop earlier. The birds seem to feather out sooner, as well, and their foraging skills develop quicker. I believe that chicks raised under a heat lamp are the slowest ones to develop. Being outside and on pasture helps chickens develop in a survival-of-the-fittest-type way.

“Being outside also helps develop your chicken’s curiosity. There is so more to do outside: searching for bugs and seeds, for example. I also think being outside at a younger age enables birds to leave their mother hen earlier in their lives. But that’s just an opinion.”

Raising Chickens for Beginners: Teenage Changes

Two of the more interesting aspects, when a chick transitions into the teenage period, are the development of sex-related anatomy and behavior change.

1. Combs & Wattles

“People send pictures all the time to McMurray Hatchery wanting us to identify whether a chick is a male or female,” Watkins says. “Some people claim that they can sex chicks when they’re 2 weeks old, but I’m much more confident about predicting their sex when the chicks are about 6 weeks of age. The wattles and combs of the cockerels are well developed by that age.

“But, on the other hand, some roosters and hens are much slower to develop, and it’s very easy to make a mistake when that is the case. A lot of people will get fooled when they see the first little stub of a comb appear, and they think that has to belong to a rooster. But that little comb could turn out to belong to a fast-developing hen.”

During the teenage period, both sexes’ growth rates continue to be quite rapid. By week 16, the general advice is that we should stop giving our young flocks chick feed and replace it with layer rations.

2. Aggression

This time also brings forth another behavior – aggression.

“At 16 weeks, cockerels can become more sexually aggressive toward the hens and more combative with each other as their hormones rise,” Watkins says. “A lot of young roosters like to fight with each other.”

By weeks 20 to 22, if not before, breeding attempts will be common among teenage males. The cockerels will frequently try to mount the hens and pullets. From my observations, older hens will often respond with aggressive moves, especially pecking, toward the unwanted advances while pullets will attempt to escape a cockerel’s advances. If a cockerel does succeed in cornering a pullet, his initial mounting attempts at this time often fail because the male loses his balance. Eventually, of course, the cockerels display competence in this area.


Also Read: How To Deal With Aggressive Chickens?


Roosters Begin to Crow

Another aspect of this time is a cockerel trying to crow for the first time. The poor creature can’t seem to progress much beyond the first syllable of the “cock-a-doodle-do,” and even that opening volley of future roosterhood being announced is more comical than majestic. 

But gradually over the next four weeks or so, the budding roos do become more adept at crowing. And the feistiness between all these hormonal males can become even more intense. It’s at this time that chicken raisers, if they haven’t already, should strongly consider culling their cockerels or trying to find a new home for them. However, be warned that hens can also crow, so be sure of the sex before you cull!

Watkins says one cockerel for every eight to 10 hens is sufficient, and there is no biological reason to keep more.

A chicken in the wooden box
pullets chickens

The Epic Day

The teenage weeks and months eventually end, of course, and the best sign of that is when pullets produce their first eggs around weeks 20 to 22 for industrial birds and approximately 24 weeks for the heritage breeds.

Human parents aren’t the only creatures that experience trying times with teenagers. The teenage weeks and months can stress us chicken enthusiasts, but when our cockerels give their first full-throated crows and our pullets lay their initial eggs, we forget the previous troubling times. 

This article about raising chickens for beginners originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Large Animals

Mini Cows: The Craze for Tiny Cattle Grows

Mini cows are fascinating people who never fancied themselves as livestock owners. The United States has seen a huge surge in the popularity of miniature cattle. Fueling the movement is the expansion of the homesteading community and the goal of being self-sustaining.

Mini Cow Magic

A common misconception is that miniature cattle are simply stunted or malnourished full-size cows. This is false. Mini cows are the result of generations of selective breeding and choosing selected genetics to reduce size, while promoting the best breed qualities, conformation and temperament.

Although miniatures can be registered, many aren’t purebreds but are crossbreds, a mixture of genetics from different breeds to create the desired size and appearance. 

The International Miniature Cattle Breeders Registry is the world’s oldest and largest registry of miniature cattle. The registry was founded in 1989 by Richard Gradwohl. Together with his family, Gradwohl developed more than 18 trademarked breeds of miniature cattle. 

After Gradwohl’s death, the registry was purchased by Ben and Melanie Yoder, who also own Cyrus Ridge Farm in Augusta County, Virginia. Here they breed and sell micro and miniature Scottish Highland Cattle.

Why Go Small?

Because miniature cattle are just 1⁄2 to 1⁄3 the size of full-size cattle, they are less threatening and intimidating for people just starting out homesteading or hobby farming. They also have the reputation of being docile and easy-going.

Certainly, many people buy mini cattle as pets, but their popularity is also practical.

A miniature milking breed, like a Jersey or Scottish Highland, can produce 1 to 1 1/2 gallons of milk per day. A miniature beef cow can provide enough meat to feed a family of four for months.

“Most people don’t want a 2,000-pound cow on their 5-acre tract, so the idea of mini cattle for meat and milk is growing in popularity,” says Ben Yoder, who raises Scottish Highlands, a dual-purpose breed used for milk and meat. “They cause much less wear and tear on land than full-size cattle.”


Also Read: Not mini but naturally small cattle, Dexters pack value into a small frame.


Raising Mini Cows – Goals

Zeroing in on what you want to do with cattle will help narrow breed choices. “There’s nothing wrong with buying a cow because it’s cute,” Yoder says. “Honestly, that’s the reason we bought our first Scottish Highlands.

“But ultimately, you need to sit down and decide your goals: If you just want a cute pet, a meat breed or family milk cow. Then do research as to what breeds meet those goals. Each breed checks different boxes, so you have to know which boxes you want to check.”

Colin and Kelly Furness of FLIP LLC, have been breeding and selling miniature beef cattle at their Idlewild Ranch in Central Florida for more than two decades. They specialize in registered mini Herefords, mini Pandas, Belted Galloways and Black Baldies. They also sell miniature donkeys.

Colin is British and Kelly is a native Floridian, so they started with Herefords (a British breed) and Florida Cracker cattle.

“What are your farm goals?” is the first question Kelly Furness asks prospective clients. “Some people just want to have a pet. Others want an animal to brighten up the pasture. Some are serious about starting a small breeding program or want to raise a few cattle for meat and/or milk.

“Our most common client is someone wanting a bull and one or two heifers.”

Most of their clients have 5 to 15 acres and want to have a cattle experience, but with cattle that require less space than regular-size cattle. They sell to a lot of homesteaders and people just getting into livestock.

Do Your Homework 

After spending time researching mini cattle online, you may be eager to get your own. Getting the proverbial “ducks in a row” first will make life easier.

“Start by doing research on what breeds you think will fit your farm needs. Then find a breeder, go meet and talk with them,” Yoder says. “Most breeders in the cattle industry are willing to talk and share if you’re interested in doing it right.”

Because of their small size, you can keep two or three miniatures in the same size area needed for one full-size cow. Cattle are herd animals, so plan on getting at least two. 

The minimum amount of land needed for mini cattle varies. In general, each animal requires anywhere from 1/2 to 1 acre of land. Ask breeders what they recommend for the specific breed(s) you’re interested in. For example, with mini Scottish Highlands, the minimum is 3⁄4 acre of pasture per animal with lots of natural shade.

Supply & Demand

The enormous interest in miniature cattle has impacted the market. “Around 2019 to 2020, there was a huge spike in the popularity of mini cattle. And with that popularity, prices became inflated,” Yoder says, noting that it wasn’t unusual for a single cow to bring $10,000.

“Supply is finally meeting demand, and prices are coming down. We expect them to plateau at a more reasonable level and allow more people to get into the industry. It’s going to be a good thing for the industry as a whole once this balances out.”

That said, Yoder notes that it would be a challenge to find a good miniature Jersey cow for less than $5,000. Demand is so strong that reputable breeders routinely have clients make down payments on unborn calves.

When to Buy Mini Cows

Some breeders sell mini cows as very young calves. Other breeders, such as Yoder and Furness, only sell weaned calves, believing babies get a better start in life being nursed by their dams (mothers) those first months.

“It’s very common for breeders to sell calves because a big market now for mini cattle is as pets,” Yoder says. “They get much more interaction with humans than a full-size cow being raised for milk or meat.” 

There’s no doubt young calves are adorable. Just realize that their care will be more intensive than if you buy an older, already-weaned calf. These “bottle babies” must be fed milk replacer twice a day until the calf is at least 2 1/2 to 3 months old.

Young babies may also be more vulnerable to illness, although reputable breeders only sell healthy calves.

Don’t Get Scammed

Because of the popularity of miniature cattle, there are lots of scammers trying to sell cattle. They advertise and post photos online and collect a down payment. 

“The calf or cow never shows up because they never had it in the first place,” Yoder says. “If a deal sounds too good to be true, it most likely is.” He strongly recommends that all potential buyers contact breeders and schedule an in-person visit to see the cattle.

Fencing & Shelter

Before bringing cattle home, ask what type of fencing they’ve been in. For example, some may be accustomed to single-strand, electric-rope fencing and respect that. 

For safety’s sake, you can’t go wrong with 48- to 60-inch-tall woven-wire or field fence for perimeter fencing. Then use single-strand electric fencing to portion off interior sections so you can do rotational grazing and keep your pastures in good condition. You’ll want at least one small corral with sturdy wood or pipe fencing where you can gather cattle when needed, such as for veterinary work.

All livestock need some form of shelter so they can get out of direct sun, wind, rain and snow. Depending on your location and the breed of cattle you buy, trees and a wooded area may be enough shelter. Or you may need a run-in shed.

For example, if you live in the northeast and plan to have Zebus, they’ll definitely need a good shelter for protection from extreme weather. Whereas Scottish Highlands are extremely hardy and rarely choose to use a manmade shelter unless they can’t find other shade.

Feeding Mini Cows

There’s no such thing as “miniature cattle” food. These small cows eat the same hay and feed as full-size cattle, just less of it—typically 1⁄3 as much. Mini cows eat approximately 2 percent of their body weight in grass hay per day.

Depending on the breed, mature cattle may not need any grain in addition to hay.

Calves, however, should be fed a 16 to 20 percent protein “starter feed” from weaning until about 6 to 8 months of age. This helps ensure they receive adequate nutrition for proper growth. If you’re raising an animal for slaughter, you may opt to feed grain during the “finishing” phase. 

Yoder explains that when feeding a cow to slaughter weight, grain gives the meat a sweeter flavor and higher protein than grass or hay only. “When a grass-fed cow is finished out, the meat usually won’t be as juicy or have as much moisture when grilling as one that is grain-finished,” he says.

Veterinarians for Mini Cows

Like any animal—pet or livestock—mini cattle will at times require the attention of a veterinarian. He or she can advise you about vaccination, deworming, injuries, breeding, calving and other health issues.

“You want a working relationship with a veterinarian who understands the breed of cattle you have,” Yoder says. “They can walk you through what works in your area, because what works in Virginia is very different from what would work in Florida.”

What About Horses?

For the safety of your mini cattle, don’t assume they can be pastured with full-size horses.

“When mixing bovine and equine families, there will be a hierarchy system, and they’ll fight for dominance,” Yoder says. “There’s a large size difference when a horse and mini cow fight. This can lead to injury or turn deadly.

“Cows butt and kick. Horses bite and kick. I’ve seen a horse grab a mini cow by the neck and kill it.”

Keep in mind that even though miniature cattle are smaller than full-size, they’re still livestock and more powerful than a human. “There needs to be a healthy respect between cow and human,” Yoder says. “If this is missing on either side, someone can get hurt. 

More Information

Mini Cow Bloodlines                      

Reputable breeders are careful to use bloodlines that avoid negative influences the dwarfism gene can cause.

“Chondrodysplasia (‘chondro’) is a dwarfism gene that can be found in certain breeds of cattle,” says Ben Yoder, whose Cyrus Ridge Farm raises micro and miniature Scottish Highland Cattle. 

“Some of the world’s leading experts in the production of miniature cattle have successfully used this gene, in combination with genetically small cows, to produce some of the smallest micro cows in existence,” he says. “Breeders need to do extensive research and education before properly introducing this gene to their herd. Irresponsible use of the gene can cause health issues.” 

All About Small                     

There are three different categories of miniature cattle. Measurements are at 3 years of age, which is considered maturity. The common measuring point is from the ground to the top of the base of the tailbone. 

  • Micro: 36 inches or under
  • Miniature: 36 1⁄4 to 42 inches
  • Mid-size: 42 1⁄4 to 48 inches

(For comparison, full-size or “standard” cattle breeds stand well over 48 inches.)

10 Popular Breeds of Mini Cows

Although there are now 30 or more recognized breeds of miniature cattle in the United States, among the most popular are the following.

This article about mini cows originally appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Large Animals

Castration for Cattle: Methods Explained

Castration may seem like one of the more daunting aspects of raising cattle, but there are many good options to choose from that are customizable to your operation.

Reasons to Castrate

According to Lew Strickland, a veterinarian with the University of Tennessee’s Extension Service and College of Veterinary Medicine, reducing aggression in male animals is the top reason for castration. That aggression, fueled by testosterone, is a safety issue for other animals and for humans potentially leading to injury or death.

“The No. 2 reason is meat quality,” he says, recommending implanting with a growth-promoting hormone at the time of castration for an improved growth rate and better marbling of the meat. The growth rate of steers is further influenced by the elimination of sex drive as unlike with bulls they’re no longer expending valuable energy pursuing females. Beyond the physical aspects, castrating calves also leads to an improved bottom line for producers as steers possess a greater value as meat animals than bulls. “It makes the value of the calf more, and the way we market them, they have to be steers,” says Derek Miller, referring to a marketing strategy known as preconditioning. This is when calves are weaned, broken to feed from a bunk and drink from a water trough, have received vaccinations, and if appropriate, have been castrated. If those conditions are met, they’re eligible for special sales where they bring a higher premium. Miller, of Whitwell, Tennessee, has been farming for decades and, when making decisions about his operation, relies on his experience that is heavily steeped in backgrounding calves.

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If not referring to grass-fed beef, calves can reach a weight of approximately 400 pounds at around 4 months of age. So don’t wait to castrate.
TAMARA HARDING/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Age of Castration

When it comes to the recommended age for castration, Strickland acknowledges that there are plenty of theories to go around. He recommends castration and implanting at the time of birth. However, he acknowledges, a lot of producers aren’t able to do that. “Most producers wait until they are working their cows and vaccinating, roughly around 3 to 4 months of age,” he says.

Miller falls into this category. “The calves we raise off of our cows, we castrate around 2 to 3 months,” he says. “The calves that we buy to background and precondition, we castrate when we purchase them.”

Typically, if not referring to grass-fed beef, calves will reach a weight of approximately 400 pounds at around 4 months of age, and Strickland recommends that castration occurs before the calf exceeds that weight particularly if the producer’s chosen method of castration is banding. “There’s just too much of a risk factor when they’re getting that old,” he says. “I’m worried about tetanus and not draining properly.”

cattle-castration
Common castration tools include, from left to right: large bander, Newberry knife and emasculatome.
photos by Hope Ellis-Ashburn

Choosing a Method

There are several methods of castration to choose from. Banding, a bloodless method, is simple but not always the best choice. “You run into the issue of knocking the calf back a little bit,” Strickland says. “Research has shown that calves recover faster with cutting.”

If banding is the selected method, Strickland recommends that it be employed sooner rather than later and to always use fresh rubber or elastic bands. “The bands will age over time and will not remain as tight as they should be to cause the blood loss for the scrotum to fall off,” he says.

Also, a common mistake that Strickland sees producers make when banding is not capturing both testicles in the band and, he adds, this can be a difficult situation to correct. He further advises that calves that are to be banded receive a tetanus shot one week before the date of banding and a booster at the time of banding. Miller makes use of the banding and vaccination technique for the calves born on his farm.

Cutting, a practice that involves cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum with a knife or scalpel and pulling out the testicles, is another option; it’s Strickland’s preference. When using this method, he advises making sure that you get all the tissue or cords out and, if needed, use some type of fly control. When cutting, Strickland also likes to use a topical bandage known as Aluspray that is applied by spraying it from an aerosol can once the procedure is complete.

“It covers the tissue, and if there is any sort of light bleeding, it helps with clotting,” he says. In terms of cutting, Strickland offers one final caveat. He advises calling your veterinarian before proceeding with any castration that involves a scrotum that is abnormal in appearance.

If you’re new to this technique, your farm veterinarian or another experienced producer, along with publications on the topic from your local extension service, are among the best resources to learn from. Like many producers, Miller makes use of more than one castration method, and he employs cutting on the calves he buys. When cutting, he advises ripping the cords so that the blood clots. “You don’t cut them even,” he says. Both Strick and and Miller advise vaccinating for tetanus when using this method.

Other castration tools that Strickland sees through this work include the Henderson cattle castrating tool and the Newberry castrating knife. After cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum, Strickland says that the Henderson tool is clamped to the cords; then, powered by a drill, it spins the testicles off and in the process twists the blood vessels together which helps to prevent bleeding.

On the other hand, the Newberry knife, which can be used in conjunction with the Henderson tool, is another tool that is used for opening the scrotum from side to side. Strickland advises producers using the Newberry knife to be watchful for an infection stemming from the improper drainage that can occur where the flaps of skin on the scrotum lay against each other and close during the clotting process.

Finally, there are two other tools used for castration. One is the emasculator. The bottom third of the scrotum is removed, and the tool is applied to the cords and closed. This serves to crush and cut the cords to prevent bleeding. This tool is typically used on larger bulls and is recommended to hold the tool in place for 30 seconds to ensure proper crimping of the blood vessels.

The second tool has a similar name, the emasculatome, and can be easily confused. It is used to crush the spermatic cords. When this method is used, Strickland says, the testicles dry up and the scrotum is left in place, never falling off.

cattle-castration
Regardless of your chosen castration method or methods, vaccinating for tetanus is always advised.
photos by Hope Ellis-Ashburn

Pro Tips

Regardless of the chosen method or methods of castration, there are some tips to keep in mind as you negotiate the process. “I like to castrate in the cooler season of the year when flies are not around as much,” Strickland says. “I don’t have to worry as much about insect control in cooler weather.”

Miller, too, follows this practice but mainly because that is how it fits into his system. “We only buy calves to background or precondition beginning in October or November,” he says. He sells his calves in April. Furthermore, Millers’ calves are born in fall and winter and those are banded before hot weather and fly season begin.

Strickland further advises choosing a clean area that is not muddy and having a partner in place who can hold the calf’s tail straight up. “It helps put them in neutral,” he says. Doing so inhibits kicking and lessens the force of any kicks that do occur.

Finally, Strickland recommends injecting the testicle with 5 to 10 cubic centimeters of lidocaine and then waiting a minute so that it takes full effect before any castration that involves cutting. “It helps with pain relief and improves recovery time,” he says.

One common misconception among producers is that delaying castration until a calf reaches the 500-pound weight range allows the calf to make use of natural testosterone that will help him to grow. “They don’t grow that much from the testosterone they are producing on their own until they reach about six to seven hundred pounds,” Strickland says. If the producer is raising them for the market the 600-to-700-pound weight range is when they should be sold.

With research and practice castrating your beef calves can be a little less daunting and become a more familiar part of your farming operation.

This article about cattle castration was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Large Animals

Miniature Cattle: 5 Breeds For Small Farms

Miniature cattle breeds are sized right for small farms.

The International Miniature Cattle Breeder’s Society and Registry and Registry maintains herd books for 26 breeds, and the Animal Research Foundation registers minis of every breed.

But a handful of minis are more popular than the rest. You can consider them the big five of the miniature cattle world — Dexters, Lowlines, Miniature Herefords, Zebus and Jerseys.

You can register all five with both organizations, but each also supports a herd book of its own. Let’s take a closer look at these popular miniature bovine breeds.

1. Dexters

Dexters are tri-purpose cattle (beef, milk and draft).

The breed has a good foraging ability, as well as high feed conversion and meat-to-bone ratios. You can finish a grass-fed Dexter steer in 18 to 24 months, and it will dress out at 50 to 60 percent live weight.

Their beef is fine-textured, tender and delicious. Dexter cows give 1 1⁄2 to 3 gallons of roughly four percent butterfat milk daily, at a rate of up to one quart of cream per gallon.

2. Lowlines

Lowlines are Miniature Angus cattle developed by the Trangie Agricultural Research Centre in Australia.

No “outside” blood was used in its creation. They are purebred Angus bred 30 to 60 percent smaller than their standard (Highline) kin.

3. Miniature Herefords

Mini Herefords are another scaled-down purebred breed.

They are said to mature 20 percent faster than standards. They’re gentle, adapt to all climates, and are highly efficient foragers. Veterinarians familiar with beef breeds know how to treat them, too.

Miniature Herefords are a first-rate, easy-care choice for gourmet and organic beef producers.

4. Zebus

Zebu” is another name for Bos indicus—all breeds of Asian humped cattle.

Most folks recognize the brawny Brahman, a full-size Zebu developed in North America. The mini size resembles Brahmans with two notable twists:

  • Mini Zebus’ upright ears don’t match the Brahman’s trademark floppy ones.
  • Mini Zebu cows have a lot less hump.

Both breeds, however, sport short, sleek coats and have tough, loose skin. They also have fully functional sweat glands.

Highly developed panniculus muscles make it easy for Zebus to twitch away flies. They’re heat-, disease- and insect-resistant, and they thrive on marginal pasture.

And rodeo-bull image notwithstanding, they are easy-going and remarkably intelligent.

5. Jerseys

Jerseys were barely more than today’s miniature size until recently, historically speaking.

The “bigger is better” boom ultimately impacted this ancient dairy breed. But enough bantam Jerseys remained to make selectively breeding them back to miniature frame a relatively easy task.

For today’s smaller households seeking a pocket-size family cow, Miniature Jerseys make good sense. They are gentle, prolific and a delight for the eyes. And their delicious, high-butterfat milk is hard to beat.

This story about miniature cattle originally appeared in the November/December 2019 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Raising Chickens for Eggs: 15 Best Practices

Raising chickens for eggs takes a bit of earned knowledge, but you don’t have to learn everything the hard way. Here are 15 chicken-related words-to-the-wise that will set you and your laying hens on the right path.

1. Best Breeds

Raising chickens for eggs means first choosing the right breeds. It can be tempting to choose breed(s) based solely on looks, and it’s a plus to appreciate the appearance of the chickens you raise. However, chickens are more than looks.

Look at their egg-laying differences alone. Hens might be extremely prolific, maintain good production throughout the winter or tend to produce sizable eggs. Other characteristics relate to their dispositions, climate tolerances, and typical behaviors.

The value of these traits depends on your wants. Do you want chickens to hatch their own eggs (i.e., do you want broodiness or nonsetters)? Do you want chickens that love to forage (i.e., will your chickens remain penned or escape)? Even great egg production isn’t a good thing for everyone. Sex links (Red, Amber, and Black Stars) lay many eggs, but do you want to sell eggs or are you only interested in a personal supply? With chickens, you can select for what you really want.

raising-chickens-for-eggs
Make sure you have enough space at your feeders and waterers.
JACKF/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

2. Dietary Requirements

The composition of your birds’ diet is important especially when raising chickens for eggs. Offering commercially produced feed ensures hens receive the 16% to 18% protein they need for egg production. It contains carbohydrates as well, of course; important for energy but not egg laying.

Though chickens like treats of scratch grain, kitchen scraps, etc., these tend to be high on carbs and low on protein; overconsumption of them will reduce the amount of feed they acquire, leading to lower egg production. Chicken diets should be 9 parts commercial feed to 1 part other foods to ensure sufficient protein. Or, as a different metric, you should only put out as much “treat” as can be consumed by your flock in 20 minutes.

However, if you desire to reduce your dependence on commercial feed and have other food resources available on your homestead, feel free to trial to see, for example, how the addition of cultured milk; fresh byproducts of on-farm slaughtering; a protein-rich plant such as moringa; the inclusion of other protein sources such as legumes, sunflower seeds and fishmeal; or insect foraging might reduce your need to buy feed while keeping up protein levels.

3. Supplement Needs

Additionally, there are other things to keep in mind when feeding your chickens. Calcium is important to ensure strong eggshells, so a supply of free-choice oyster shells is a good idea. Lacking teeth with which to grind food, offering grit will help with the proper breakdown of food in the gizzard — an essential when feeding scratch grain and other non-ground foods.

Lastly, regard it as a dietary supplement to have enough feeder space so that all chickens could conceivably eat at the same time, as limited space could lead to individuals going without.

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Silkies aren’t known for their egg-laying abilities, but they will brood and hatch other hens’ eggs very well.
LDC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

4. Just Add Water

When raising chickens for eggs, don’t forget that water is just as important as food, as going without could lead to stress molts or interruptions in egg production. It must be always kept fresh and unfrozen in the winter and provide enough waterer space so that all chickens have ready access as chickens can be territorial, and “guarded” watering spots may lead to deprivation for some.

Ironically, this important resource must be handled properly as excessive dampness is especially deleterious to bird health in the henhouse. Waterers must be at the correct height for the chickens, which is level with the height of their backs. Too high and they may not be able to reach it, but too low and water will dribble from their beaks as they stand to swallow, wetting the floor and bedding.

Breeds for Your Needs

The more suited a chicken breed is to your specific situation, the more you’ll benefit from its presence and the happier you will be; your hens will probably be happier, too! Here are a few chicken characteristics and the breeds (occasionally color-specific) that best embody them.

Broody: Cochin, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Silkie

Nonsetters: Ancona, Dominique, Polish, Silver Gray Dorking

Cold-HardyAmeraucana, Black Australorp, Brahma, Delaware, Salmon Faverolle, Welsummer, Wyandotte

Heat-Tolerant: Ancona, Hamburg, Leghorn, Whiting

Mellow/Quiet/Family Friendly: Ameraucana, Bielefelder, Orpington, Langshan, Salmon Faverolle, Speckled Sussex, Wyandotte

Top Egg Producers (Asterisks are the very top egg producers!): Sex Link*, Pearl White Leghorn*, Whiting*, Black Australorp, Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire, Plymouth Rock, Welsummer

Sustained Winter Egg-Production: Brahma, Jersey Giant, Orpington, Salmon Faverolle

Dual-Purpose (raising for egg and meat production): Bielefelder, Delaware, Jersey Giant, New Hampshire, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Speckled Sussex

Active Foragers: Cuckoo Maran, Dominique, Silver Gray Dorking, Hamburg, Whiting, Wyandotte

5. Chicken Checklist

You may be surprised by how much stuff chickens need – roosts, nesting boxes, feed, supplements, fencing, heaters for your waterers, and more. You’ll want them to have an area for dust bathing. And you may need a special area for confining an injured hen or a broody hen. Though it is doubtless impossible to anticipate all your future needs, a little research (via books, the internet, and/or visiting someone’s flock) can help eliminate the surprise at every turn!

laying-hen-mistakes
Water is essential, starting on day 1. For every 25 chicks, fill two 1-quart waterers with room temperature water and place them in the brooder.
CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

6. Molting Misinterpretation

For fledgling owners, molting can be an uncertain time as feather loss — and occasional weight loss — is disconcerting. For those raising chickens for eggs, it’s disconcerting because your hens stop laying. But molting is a natural process by which chickens replace old feathers with new ones. This renewal is often triggered by the decrease in daylight hours in autumn, an ideal time as their new feathers will arrive for winter.

But most hens have their first molt at 18 months (regardless), and spring or summer molts are far from unheard of. Also, molts can be soft (losing only a few feathers) or hard (losing almost all feathers) and can take anywhere from 8 to 12 weeks or more. So there is some variation in molting. However, note that “unnatural” or stress molts (typically out-of-season) can result from disease, chilling, and going without water or food, indicating a separate issue that must be dealt with.

7. Brushing Aside Broodiness

A broody hen wants to hatch eggs, which is a problem if it isn’t what you have in mind. Though often triggered by the increasing day length of spring, hens may become broody at any time.

You can spot a broody hen easily: She seldom leaves her nest, and when she does, she’ll fluff her feathers, fan her tail, and cluck incessantly to create a “fierce” appearance; eats and drinks little; and makes grumbling sounds and is prone to pecking when you approach her. Her egg production will drop off; plus, she is blocking a nest from used by others.

Even if you think you can manage one broody hen, broodiness can be contagious and spread through a flock. One hen can quickly become four, and your egg production will really suffer.

To end broodiness, try repeatedly removing the broody hen from its broody stop and/or blocking her access to it; carrying her around, especially to the food; placing frozen bottles under her to create discomfort; and if all else fails, putting her in “jail”— an unstable or swinging, airy cage with food and water but no bedding in it. Check every day to see when the broodiness has taken wing.

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Dust bathing is essential for a flock’s health and happiness.
PETER CRIPPS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

8. Nifty Nesting

Whether your chickens are confined to a yard or allowed to range freely, you want to know where to gather your eggs. So it’s important to make your nesting boxes inviting to encourage their use. They should have a 1-foot square base and measure 18 inches high.

Ideally, their location should be slightly darkened and secluded; ours have curtains of tarp-like material to help obscure the opening of each (and discourage egg eating). One box per quintet of hens is recommended.

9. Act Your Age

When raising chickens for eggs, know that hens will begin laying eggs at around 6 months and can continue for 5 to 10 years. However, peak production is for the first 2 years, leaving you to decide how long to keep your hens around. No matter your decision, you must know how old each hen is, or rather, if she is still laying eggs.

We have always bought (never hatched) our laying hens and thus have been able to have a yearly changing succession of our favorite breeds. It was easy to know which ones were 2 or 3 years old. If your flock has a single breed across multiple generations, checking vents is your best bet to know who is laying or not. The vent (call it the egg opening!) of a laying hen will have a moist appearance and a paler color than her other skin surfaces. Also, her rear underside should feel soft if she is laying; a tight underside probably means no eggs.

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Don’t skimp on the roosting space! Hens require 1 foot of roost per bird minimum.
FOCUS FINDER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

10. Room to Roost

Roosting is an important chicken activity. Perched on a roost, hens can cozy together and feel safe and protected. Roosting space is a good way to signal to your flock that this is where they are to spend the night. Hens require 1 foot of roost per bird, and roosts should be arranged at least 18 inches off the ground.

11. Nighty Night

Many people make the mistake of thinking they don’t have any nighttime predators on their property. Then, they don’t shut their chickens in at night; the chickens come inside to roost and that is that.

Rest assured, even if you don’t begin your chicken-keeping career with raccoons, opossums, or other nocturnal nuisances visiting your henhouse in search of eggs or the chickens themselves as a meal, you eventually will. Even if you don’t attract those animals, even benign nighttime visitors (cats, rabbits, etc.) will still disturb and stress your flock. So be sure to lock them up!

12. Keep it Clean

Your henhouse should be as spartan as possible to allow for quick visual assessments that it’s secure. If you have never had rats on your property, this is good news. You want to keep it that way, and you never know when they might wander through the neighborhood (rural or urban) looking for a new home.

Don’t have stray boards, boxes, barrels or other items in or around your house that might offer locations for them to hide. Don’t leave food in the house or yard overnight to attract animals of any kind.

It’s easier to avoid pests in the first place than to rid yourself of them after they have arrived.

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Don’t let your chickens free-range at night. Lock them up for their safety.
SUWIWAT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

13. On the Job

Though this isn’t the sort of mistake that will harm your chickens, it’s certainly one that will do you a disservice. Not making proper use of your flock as garden insect-pest removers, compost-pile turners, weed-seed eliminators, even agents of fly control in the barnyard, means you aren’t using them to their full potential. Chickens are omnivores, with a taste for everything from meat to seeds to plant biomass, so make good use of them, and hopefully less work for you.

14. Social Director

“Pecking order” got that name for a reason, so it should come as no surprise that you must watch your birds’ behavior. Providing sufficient space and food usually prevents any major problems. However, roosters can help you here; they’re important members of the flock even if fertilized eggs aren’t desired.

A good rooster (not all are good at their job) will break up hen fights, find and “announce” food sources, signal when danger is around and, of course, be the alarm clock! The size of your flock dictates the number of roosters you should have. Generally, one rooster for every 10 to 25 hens is correct, the higher end of the spectrum working well if fertile eggs aren’t required. Too few hens (or too many roosters) can lead to rooster fights, so always pay attention to your rooster numbers and dispositions. If you happen to get a rooster with an unfavorable disposition (one that jumps at humans, for example), it won’t improve its behavior and should be removed.

laying-hen-mistakes
If you live in a cold climate, a breed such as the Orpington is ideal. It has soft feathering that masks its true size and allows it to endure cold temperatures better than other breeds.
CHERYL FLEISHMAN/WIRESTOCK/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

15. Space Out

When working on building/fencing projects, construct not for the current size of your flock but for the size you intend it to be. Probably one of the simpler tips included, it is also one of the best one for saving time and unneeded expenses. If you plan on having a larger flock in the future than you are housing currently, or want extra space for hatching or other special undertakings, keep this in mind. Yes, be realistic and practical about your target goals. But always be mindful of what you are working towards, too.

This article about raising chickens for eggs was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.