Categories
Crops & Gardening

Nasturtiums: 5 Reasons To Grow Them

Nasturtiums are a workhorse farm flower that many gardeners plant simply for their beauty and carefree nature. The truth is that nasturtiums serve many important roles in a garden; we shouldn’t just grow them for their good looks alone.

1. Nasturtiums Are Edible

If you haven’t nibbled a nasturtium blossom, it’s time. Their fresh, peppery flavor is a spectacular way to spice up a salad or sandwich, or top a cracker spread with cream cheese. There are many recipes using nasturtiums cooked as well, including my favorite: stuffed with goat cheese, battered and fried. Nasturtiums can also be candied for use on cakes, tarts and other desserts. Oh, and the leaves are edible, too.

Pricing and selling nasturtiums in the edible flower market can also contribute to a profitable farm income.

2. They’re Aphid Nurseries

You’re probably asking yourself why I would include this in a list of positive nasturtium attributes, but the truth is, if you don’t have a few plants that aphids love in your garden, you won’t have a good population of ladybugs, lacewings and other beneficial insects around either. Nasturtiums can tolerate a ton of aphids feeding on them with little ill effects, so having them around as an aphid nursery means they can also help grow a healthy population of beneficial insects who can keep pest outbreaks on other plants in check.

3. Nasturtiums Make a Great Living Mulch

Trailing nasturtium varieties spread very quickly and cover a lot of ground, making an unwelcoming environment for weeds as they do. The soil in a garden with a cover of nasturtium foliage is shaded, which helps suppress weed seed germination. A living mulch of nasturtiums might also prevent excess moisture loss from the soil due to evaporation, and it helps shade the soil to keep it a bit cooler during hot summer weather.

4. They Provide Food for Pollinators

Nasturtium blossoms are a great nectar source for a wide variety of insects, including long-tongued bumblebees and butterflies. You’ll also find hummingbirds enjoying the nectar the blooms produce. That long spur you find at the back of the flower is where the nectar is found, so only certain creatures can access it, but those that do, are a joy to watch in the garden. Nasturtiums are quite floriferous, too, with most plants in constant bloom from mid-summer through fall’s first frost.

5. Nasturtiums Provide Excellent Toad Habitat

The bug-eating prowess of toads often goes unappreciated by farmers, but the truth is that every morning and every evening, toads patrol the garden, lapping up ants, slugs, beetles and scores of other insects. Even if you seldom spot a toad in your landscape during the day, know that there are still likely to be many around. During warm, sunny weather, toads take shelter, nestling under mulch, in cavities or under a cooling canopy of foliage. And guess what plant’s foliage makes a great canopy for toads? That’s right, nasturtiums. Their ground-hugging, spreading nature, creates moist pockets that are wonderful toad habitat.

As you can see, beyond their beauty and easy nature, there are many excellent reasons to make nasturtiums your new favorite farm flower.

This article about nasturtiums was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

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Equipment

Tire Inflator or Air Compressor: Which Do You Need?

Tire inflators vs. air compressors. What exactly are the differences? Do you need one machine more than the other, or are both handy to have around? Let’s dig into the key differences.

First, there are two main types of powered machines that can be used to inflate tires on cars, tractors, wagons, and more. We’ll refer to them as tire inflators and air compressors, though these names aren’t especially formalized—both machines compress air and can be used to inflate tires.

Tire inflator

For the purpose of this article, a tire inflator is a machine that inflates tires without using a tank to hold compressed air. The lack of this tank makes tire inflators lightweight and portable. Some tire inflators draw power from a regular wall outlet, but others can be powered by the 12-volt (cigarette) outlet in a car. That’s convenient if you want a tire inflator that can ride along in your car and, if necessary, inflate a tire when you’re traveling and away from other sources of power.

But tire inflators have disadvantages. In some cases they’re not as powerful as air compressors with tanks, so they can take longer to inflate tires. And they may be unable to fully inflate tires that require high pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure. Check the recommended PSI range for the tires you’ll be filling and make sure the maximum PSI rating of your tire inflator is higher.

Air compressor

For the purpose of this article, an air compressor is a machine that holds compressed air in a storage tank. Many models are electric and plug into wall outlets, but gasoline air compressors are also available.

Strength is a primary benefit of an air compressor; they typically have high maximum PSI ratings and can be used to quickly inflate tires to high PSI levels. And while an air compressor (like a tire inflator) is bound to produce some noise while it fills its tank, once the tank is full you can inflate tires in silence using the stored air, at least until the pressure in the tank drops low enough for the air compressor to start up again.

But there’s another big benefit offered by air compressors: they can do more than just inflate tires. Air compressors can be used with a wide variety of air-powered tools, such as nail guns and impact wrenches. You’ll just need to ensure you air compressor is big enough and strong enough to handle these jobs, which comes down to factors like the size of the holding tank (in gallons) and the volume of air (in cubic feet per minute, CFM) the air compressor can supply at any given PSI level.

Conclusions

If all you’re looking for is a machine to inflate tires to moderate PSI levels, opt for a tire inflator and appreciate its portability. But if you have heavy-duty tires to fill, or if you want to use air tools (like a nail gun) on farm construction projects, an air compressor is the way to go. Or best of all, get them both and use whichever is better suited to any given need that arises.

This article about tire inflator or air compressor was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Best Tractor Battery: Flooded Lead-Acid or AGM

The best tractor battery depends on several factors. Traditionally, flooded lead-acid batteries have been the go-to choice for starting engines and powering the other electrical needs of tractors, cars, trucks, and more. But another type of lead-acid battery—the absorbent glass-mat (AGM) battery—is an alternative offering both pros and cons.

What are the differences between flooded lead-acid and AGM batteries?

Lead-acid batteries surround lead plates with a mix of sulfuric acid and water called the electrolyte, generating a reaction that produces electricity. But the nuances of the design can vary.

In a flooded lead-acid battery, the electrolyte is in liquid form. In contrast, an AGM battery contains fiberglass mats that absorb the electrolyte and cushion the lead plates inside. An AGM battery is a type of valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) battery, also known as a sealed lead-acid battery.

Upsides of AGM batteries

AGM batteries offer many advantages compared to flooded lead-acid batteries:

  • The liquid electrolyte in a flooded lead-acid battery can leak out if the battery isn’t positioned upright. AGM batteries are sealed, so they can be mounted in any orientation without risk of leakage.
  • Flooded lead-acid batteries require regular maintenance, such as adding distilled water. AGM batteries do not.
  • The fiberglass mats make AGM batteries less susceptible to damage from vibrations than flooded lead-acid batteries.
  • AGM batteries perform well in a wide range of cold and hot temperatures.
  • AGM batteries charge faster and can have a longer lifespan than flooded lead-acid batteries.
  • When it comes to starting engines, a flooded lead-acid battery performs best when discharged only a little before recharging. AGM batteries can discharge deeper and still have enough oomph to start an engine, which frees up battery reserves for powering other electronics in a vehicle.
  • When charging, AGM batteries put out less gas (such as hydrogen, which can be explosive) than flooded lead-acid batteries.

Downsides of AGM batteries

If you’re thinking, “an AGM battery sounds awesome for my tractor,” that’s not surprising. But keep in mind there are downsides to AGM batteries:

  • AGM batteries are more expensive than flooded lead-acid batteries. While this can be offset by lower maintenance and longer lifespan, the increased up-front cost is worth keeping in mind.
  • AGM batteries can be damaged (and their lifespan thus shortened) by high voltages and overcharging. If you’re operating an older tractor, it’s possible its alternator isn’t suitable for recharging an AGM battery.
  • Along the same lines, if you’ll be charging your AGM battery with a standalone battery charger, you’ll need to get one that’s designed for charging AGM batteries.

Which makes the best tractor battery?

AGM batteries are commonly found in new cars because they’re excellent at powering the many electronics packed into modern automobiles while still offering enough power for starting the engine. Depending on the electrical requirements of your tractor, this may be less relevant; an old tractor might use the battery for starting the engine, powering headlights at night, and nothing more.

A newer tractor, on the other hand, may have enough electronics on board to benefit from an AGM battery. And if you’re interested in any of the other benefits offered by AGM batteries (including the reduced maintenance requirements), you might want to splurge on the higher cost, provided your tractor can recharge an AGM battery without damaging it.

On that note, determining the best tractor battery for your needs may come down to the specifics of your tractor. If it’s a recent model compatible with AGM batteries, the upsides are yours to seize. But an older tractor might not reap as many benefits, and if you’re concerned about charging compatibility, sticking with a traditional flooded lead-acid battery might be best. If in doubt, consult a professional to determine the best tractor battery for your situation.

This article about the best tractor battery was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

 

Categories
Chickens 101 Poultry

How Long Do Chickens Live & Produce Eggs

How long do chickens live is a common question and one that’s, mistakenly, been driven by commercial egg farms. Here’s how long your chickens can live and be productive.

How Long Do Chickens Live? Commerical Farm vs. Backyard Birds

A common misconception that some new backyard flock owners have is that hens are only useful until they are 3 years old. Once they’ve reached this landmark age, their production plummets and their value zeroes out.

When your hens have reached the end of their prime laying days, some say it’s best to euthanize them or use them for soup.

As shocking as this misbelief may be, it’s easy to understand where it comes from. Most commercial egg farms keep their layers until the hens reach 2 to 3 years of age. Once their laying stock reaches this age, commercial farms generally dispose of their hens, refreshing their flocks with pullets just past point-of-lay.

Because of this commercial practice, those new to chicken-keeping often assume it’s also standard operating procedure for backyard flocks. They couldn’t be more wrong.

Small Flock Facts

Hens may live in backyard flocks for 6 to 8 years (or more!), and most flocks will produce eggs for 3 to 4 years. “The level of egg production, egg size and shell quality [however] decrease each year,” writes Sandra Stuttgen, associate professor with the University of Wisconsin Division of Extension, in “Life Cycle of a Laying Hen.” “Most commercial layers are kept for 2 to 3 years as their egg production decreases after this time. To keep a small flock producing, owners should plan to retire old hens and add young hens (pullets) every 2 to 3 years.”

In “Factors Affecting Egg Production In Backyard Chicken Flocks,” the authors note that the laying cycle of a chicken flock usually covers a span of about 12 months. “Egg production begins when the birds reach about 18 to 22 weeks of age, depending on the breed and season,” they write. “Flock production rises sharply and reaches a peak of about 90%, 6 to 8 weeks later. Production then gradually declines to about 65% after 12 months of lay.”

The decline in productivity varies greatly from bird to bird. The researchers state that good layers will lay for about 50 to 60 weeks and then have a rest period (when they molt). Poorer layers and older hens will molt more often and lay less consistently.

While it’s true that a hen’s egg production begins to decline after age 3, it’s by no means over. With a proper diet, plenty of fresh water, sufficient natural light and a safe living environment, a layer can continue to produce eggs for 5 to 10 years. She may only lay an egg every couple of weeks, but she’ll sing her egg song as proudly and loudly as the yearlings.

how-long-do-chickens-live
An old hen may not be a prime layer anymore, but she’ll still have a use around the farm.
LDC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Lifespan Factors

Many factors affect the lifespan of a chicken. Poor nutrition plays a key role in a hen’s longevity. If not fed a layer ration specifically formulated with the percentages of protein and calcium needed for proper egg production, a hen will draw these building-block nutrients from her own body’s reservoirs, directly impacting her health.

Similarly, continual egg production can negatively impact the lifespan of chickens. Even if fed a nutritious layer ration, daily or near-daily production exhausts and depletes a hen, causing caged-layer fatigue. Allowing laying hens to rest and recuperate during the shorter daylight months can help extend their lives.

Other factors that affect a hen’s lifespan include a safe, clean living environment; poultry illness and parasites; the presence of predators; and the type of chicken she is. Production hybrids will typically have a shorter lifespan than dual-purpose and heritage-breed chickens.

Extending the life of laying hens promotes their well-being and contributes to sustainable egg production. Here are several ways to ensure a longer and healthier life for these birds.

Meat Birds

The age of chickens used for meat can vary from 6 weeks to 1½ years old. Chickens labeled as:

Broiler-fryers are young, tender chickens about 7 weeks old;

Roasters are older chickens, about 3 to 5 months old;

Capons are male chickens about 16 weeks to 8 months old;

Stewing/Baking Hens are mature laying hens 10 months to 1½ years old.

Source: USDA

Proper Nutrition: Laying hens require a diet tailored to their needs. Adequate calcium is crucial for strong eggshells, so consider providing crushed oyster shells or calcium supplements.

Clean Water: Clean and fresh water is essential for digestion and overall health. Ensure water containers are free from contaminants and regularly cleaned to prevent disease transmission.

Adequate Space: Overcrowding can lead to stress and aggression among hens. Providing ample space in the coop and run allows hens to move freely, stretch their wings, and prevents injuries.

Predator Protection: Secure the coop and run with sturdy fencing, and use hardware cloth to deter predators. Lock hens inside the coop at night to protect them from nocturnal threats.

Regular Veterinary Care: Establish a relationship with an avian veterinarian who can perform routine check-ups, administer vaccinations and offer guidance on health management.

Clean Environment: Regularly clean the coop, remove droppings and replace bedding material to prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria and parasites. Good ventilation is also crucial for air quality.

Social Interaction: Chickens are social animals and thrive on interaction with their flock. Ensure they have companionship to reduce stress and boredom.

Enrichment: Provide objects for hens to peck at and scratch, such as hanging vegetables or straw bales. This stimulates mental and physical activity, reducing the risk of feather pecking and cannibalism.

Egg Collection: Collect eggs daily to discourage broodiness and egg-eating. Leaving eggs in the nest can lead to problems such as broken eggs and hens going broody, which can negatively affect their health.

How Long Can Hens Live?

Given a safe, clean and stress-free living environment, with winters off to rest and replenish their bodies, and plenty of nutritious food and clean water, hens can live as long as 8 to 10 years … and quite possibly longer. According to the Guinness Book of Records, the record for the world’s oldest chicken is held by Muffy, an American Game bantam who died at the age of 22. I’ve had several that lived longer than 7 and even 10 years. One of our hens had two daughters at the ripe old age of 6! By providing excellent care, protection, and attention to these factors, you can help your backyard chickens live longer, healthier lives and enjoy the benefits of egg production and companionship for many years.

This article about how long to chickens live was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Chickens 101 Health & Nutrition Poultry Uncategorized

Impacted Crop: How to Identify & Treat in Chickens

Impacted crop is a common emergency that all chicken keepers should know how to identify and treat early. Secondary problems, such as sour crop, or even death can result when the condition is left untreated.

The crop helps chickens avoid spending all day out in the open foraging for food. Think of the crop as a “holding tank” for everything your chickens eat. Thanks to the crop, chickens can quickly gorge themselves on a great deal of food, and then go hide somewhere safe to digest it all over the next few hours. This, in turn, limits their exposure to potential predators. The problem with crops is that when a chicken eats too many things, she just can’t digest, and it gets blocked, or impacted.

What is the Crop?

The crop is a small muscle pouch located on the right side of the breast, in the center below the neck. The purpose of the crop is to hold food until it can be digested in the proventriculus (stomach) and gizzard. As the chicken eats, the crop grows larger, until it’s about the size of a golf ball or a bit larger. Once the crop is full, the chicken stops eating and usually goes somewhere safe to rest and digest her meal. It typically takes two to four hours for the crop to empty entirely.

When the digestive system is working as it should, a chicken’s crop will be very full and distended at the end of the day. She’ll digest her food overnight, and the crop will be completely empty and flat the next morning.

an-impacted-crop
A chicken’s crop is located on the middle right side of their breast. Crops are usually full at the end of the day, as the birds go in to roost, but if it’s still full first thing in the morning, then your bird has likely developed an impaction. (Photo by Heather Levin)

What Causes Impacted Crop

Chickens will eat a wide variety of things, especially if they’re allowed to free-range. However, we run into problems when they eat things they can’t digest!

Chickens that eat the following can develop an impaction.

  • long, fibrous grass or hay
  • string, rope or twist ties
  • feathers
  • bedding or litter (including wood chips, sand or shavings)
  • plastic or metal trash
  • hard, indigestible fruit skins (such as banana peels or avocado skins)

Chickens that are kept in a run and then suddenly allowed to free-range can also develop an impaction by suddenly gorging themselves on long grasses and other natural fibers in the yard.

So how do you know your chicken has an impacted crop? Look for the following symptoms.

  • reduced appetite
  • lethargy or depression
  • weight loss
  • hard, distended crop visible early in the morning

How to Find a Crop

To find a chicken’s crop, choose a bird that you know has eaten recently. You’ll have the most success finding the crop if you do it late in the day when it’s sure to be full of food.

Pick up your chicken with her tail toward you and her beak facing away from you. Hold her like you would a football, and use your hand to gently feel the center right side of her breast. The crop will feel like a firm or doughy ball.

It’s important to familiarize yourself with the location of the crop and its typical size and texture before you have to deal with an impaction.

How to Test For Impaction

The only sure way to know if your chicken has an impacted crop is to feel the crop first thing in the morning, before your chickens eat or drink anything.

A chicken’s crop is at varying stages of fullness throughout the day. However, the crop empties completely overnight, while the chicken sleeps. So, every healthy chicken should have a flat, empty crop when they come out of the coop first thing in the morning.

To test for impaction, go out to the coop first thing in the morning and feel your chicken’s crop. A chicken with a hard, full crop in the morning is suffering from an impaction.

an-impacted-crop
When a chicken’s crop is empty, its breast will look flat and smooth. Birds with a very full crop will have a breast that is more rounded and bulges out.
(Photo by Heather Levin)

Treating Impacted Crop

There are several things you can do to treat mild to moderate cases of impacted crop. Mild impactions are when the crop is the size of a baseball or smaller.

1. Isolate & Withhold Food: One strategy to treat a mild case of impacted crop is to put the bird in isolation and withhold food for 24 to 48 hours. Make sure your chicken has access to plenty of fresh, clean water during this time. The more water you can get her to drink, the more it will help get matter moving through the crop. Her isolation cage or area should also be warm and stress-free.

2. Use Herbs: You can also give her a calming, cooled herbal tea in place of water to help her relax while she’s in isolation. Herbs such as chamomile, lemon balm, catnip and lavender all work well.

Chamomile is especially good to give impacted birds because it’s an excellent digestive aid and helps ease cramping and bloating. It’s also a mucilage, which might help get the items in the crop moving. Other mucilaginous herbs include marshmallow, fennel, and fenugreek. Given as a tea, these herbs might help get the fibrous material in the crop moving again. Adding turmeric to your chicken’s water while she’s going through treatment can help prevent sour crop, a secondary condition that often piggybacks on an impaction. Sour crop is caused when the contents of the crop start to ferment, and an overgrowth of Candida yeast develops. Numerous studies, including“Anti-Candida Activity of Curcumin: A Systematic Review ” (bit.ly/3PzWUTs) in Current Drug Discovery Technologies (Vol. 18, No. 3, 2021), have found that turmeric is an effective natural treatment for Candida overgrowths.

3. Massage the Crop: If your chicken still has an impacted crop after 24 to 48 hours of isolation and fasting, try massaging the crop.

To do this you’ll need a syringe or eye dropper, olive or vegetable oil, and lukewarm water. First, mix 1 tablespoon of oil with ¼ cup of lukewarm water and mix. Quickly fill the syringe or dropper with up to 10 milliliters of the oil and water mixture, and slowly dribble it into your chicken’s beak. This might be a two-person job, as you’ll have to hold the bird and open her beak by hand to do this.

If your chicken starts coughing, stop immediately and give her a minute to rest and catch her breath. Once you’ve gotten the oil and water mixture down the esophagus, gently massage the crop from top to bottom for three minutes.

Do this entire process several times throughout the day.

4. Try Epsom Salt: You can also try to flush the chicken’s crop with Epsom salt. If you try this treatment, use the recipe developed by Gail Damerow in The Chicken Health Handbook.

Mix 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt with ½ cup of water, and dribble into the chicken’s mouth twice daily for up to three days.

5. Transition to Soft Food: Once you notice your chicken’s crop is smaller or softer, reintroduce foods slowly. Opt for soft, easy-to-digest foods such as scrambled or hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, fermented feed or soft, cooked vegetables.

Once you notice that the crop is emptying out completely every night, you can reintroduce her back to the flock.

If the impaction has not cleared up after several days of treatment, your next option is to take the chicken to a poultry vet to clear the crop manually or surgically remove the items impacting the crop. These procedures should be done by a licensed vet, as it’s very easy to injure or kill your chicken attempting either of them at home.

Although impaction is a serious condition, regular crop checks and paying attention to your chickens’ behavior can help you spot it early and take action while it can still be treated.

This article about impacted crop was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry Sponsored

Everything You Need to Know Before Buying Chicks

Baby Chick Checklist

Getting You And Your Baby Chicks Started Off Right

You’ve decided to enter the wonderful world of raising your own chickens as either layers or broilers. Maybe it’s been a while since you started your last batch of chicks, or you might be new to the game altogether. Either way, with a little forethought and a few supplies, you will be hearing little “cheeps” in no time.

The first thing you need to decide is which breed you’d like to raise. Are you looking for hearty breeds—like Golden Comets—for brown egg production? Or, a nice broiler bird, such as the White Plymouth Rock? Maybe you want something more fashionable like the Silkie? Don’t worry—while there are many different breeds, they all share similar needs in the beginning.

During the hatching process when a baby chick is pipping out of the eggshell, it pulls the remaining egg yolk into its body, giving it a food supply lasting a day or two. This is what allows them to be shipped safely through mail. It’s also why we can spend more time creating their new environment instead of worrying about getting them to eat as soon as they arrive.

Helpful housing tips:

  • Keep chicks in a draft-free environment, but make sure they have adequate ventilation.
  • Plan on one square foot of floor space per chick until they reach 12 weeks of age.
  • There are many options for bedding but stay away from fine sawdust because chicks may inadvertently eat it.
  • To help clean up when the birds are away, first place a couple of layers of newspaper on the floor, followed by approximately four inches of bedding—try paper towels at first if the newspaper proves too slippery for the chicks at first.
  • Along with making clean up easier, the paper barrier helps discourage the chicks from eating the bedding.
  • Keep the bedding dry to reduce the risk of disease. If wet spots do occur, add dry bedding rather than removing the wet to keep molds and other hazards from being released into the air.

Next, you need a plan to keep the birds warm. If you don’t have access to a commercial brooder, heat lamps make a great substitute. Position the lamps so the temperature at “bird-level” is between 90 – 95 degrees when they first arrive. Raise the lamp each week just enough to lower the temperature by five degrees. In about a month, you will reach 70 degrees. At that point, the chicks are fine to go into almost any environment.

Be careful not to place the lamp too close to the walls: If the chicks get too cold, they may pile on top of each other and suffocate the birds on the bottom while trying to get closer to the heat.

Place the heat lamp towards an edge or end of the pen with the birds equally spread between the light and the rest of the pen You can use a chick guard—or cardboard fence—for the first ten days to keep the birds closer to the heat, feed, and water. Use 15 watts of light per 200 square feet of floor space, keeping it on 24 hours a day for the first week, 16 hours a day for weeks two through six, and 13 hours a day for weeks six through 12.

In terms of feed and water, you can pick up feeders and waters at your local farm supply store or order online. For water, avoid bowls since they can spill, and chicks can fall in and drown. For feed, utilize a chick starter feed, like Homestead Chick Starter/Grower—this feed is formulated for optimal development of the digestive tract and other internal organ systems. Additionally, you don’t need to offer grit when supplying Homestead Chick Starter/Grower. Additionally, if you want to keep your new birds hydrated when they first arrive home, feel free to add an electrolyte, found at your feed store, to their water.

As you’re getting started if you run into any specific problems, there are all kinds of resources online and through Hubbard Feeds to help you out. Visit the Hubbard Feeds website to learn more about Poultry care and nutrition: https://www.hubbardfeeds.com/species/backyard-poultry.

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Health & Nutrition Poultry

Poultry Veterinarians: How to Find Help for Your Flock

A poultry veterinarian is your last though when all is well in your coop. Your birds are bright-eyed, active and eating everything you give them. You have little reason to think about what you’ll do if one of your birds gets sick — until it happens.

If you keep chickens, the day will come when you go out to check on your flock and find a bird that’s not doing well. Maybe she’s lethargic and not interested in food. Maybe she’s not walking right. Or maybe she has an open wound that came from another hen or even a predator. If you live in an urban or suburban area, small-animal vets are plentiful, but where do you take a sick chicken?

Chickens Need Vets

Backyard flock owners often opt to try to treat their birds at home and don’t seek out the advice of a poultry veterinarian. This is often not in the best interest of the birds, according to veterinarians who specialize in poultry care.

In a 2014 study in the journal Poultry Science, only 16% to 24% of backyard chicken owners pursued veterinary care for their birds, according to avian veterinarian Nick Kirk of Migratory Avian Services in Nashville, Tennessee. Only 18.8% of owners in the same study sought information from veterinarians, in comparison to 87.4% seeking information on the internet.

poultry-veterinarian-3
Bumblefoot, a painful process within the foot of a chicken, can require surgical intervention that should only be performed by a veterinarian with experience in avian medicine.
CHAD ROBERTSON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“In contrast to those numbers, there was a lack of knowledge of common diseases contracted by chickens,” he says. “These include avian influenza, Marek’s disease and exotic Newcastle disease. Avian influenza and exotic Newcastle disease are zoonotic, or can be transmitted to humans. Avian influenza has just recently been in the news, and owners with chickens should be very aware of the potential effects on their flocks as well as their human family members. This is where an avian veterinarian is important to have associated with your flock. We are aware of multiple diseases outside of these common ones and keep up to date with what is going on locally and nationally.”

In addition to these common diseases, chickens are affected by multiple conditions that aren’t suitable for diagnosis or treatment by someone without a veterinary license.

“For example, there are multiple websites that will give you ‘at home’ therapies for bumblefoot,” Kirk says. “Bumblefoot is a painful process within the foot of a chicken, and if severe, needs surgical intervention. Only a veterinarian with experience in avian medicine would be able to properly diagnose and treat this condition in a humane manner.”

For Crystal Matt, an associate veterinarian at the Avian and Exotic Animal Clinic of Indianapolis, Indiana, it’s important for chicken owners to use a veterinarian for several reasons.

“The primary reason is that an owner’s assumption about what might be happening with their bird is often incorrect,” she says. “The majority of egg-binding or sour crop cases presented to me end up being far more complicated than that.” As an example, Matt explains that sour crop develops when the crop isn’t emptying normally. Owners assume this is a crop problem when it’s usually something completely different that is simply causing a backup into the crop.

“I’ve seen delayed crop emptying from tons of different diseases, like metal poisoning, reproductive diseases, heart failure and even one chicken that ate an entire towel!” she says.

Matt has also seen dozens of cases of well-intentioned owners trying to treat medical problems on their own — such as cutting open bumblefoot, giving medications from other pets, even trying to pull out an egg — that end up causing far worse damage to the bird.

poultry-veterinarian-5
A vet not properly trained in avian medicine can misinterpret radiographs and X-rays.
PORTRAITGUY1979/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“There is a lot of misinformation on the internet that often leads to delayed medical care, worsening of the underlying condition, or additional problems that weren’t present initially,” she says.

Finally, birds are pros at hiding signs of illness, which is why it’s a good idea to have a veterinarian exam your birds, even when they appear healthy.

“As prey animals, they naturally try to act like everything is perfectly fine until they absolutely can’t hide it any longer,” Matt says.

“This means that if an owner is seeing signs of illness, it’s likely far worse than the bird is letting on. Routine health exams are an important part of keeping a healthy flock.”

Poultry Veterinarian: Special Training

If you have a chicken in need of vet care, ideally you’ll take your bird to a poultry veterinarian who is specially trained in avian medicine. Avian specialists are board-certified with the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners as Avian Practice Diplomates, and with good reason. They have studied bird anatomy and know the ins and outs of what can affect the health of poultry.

Board-certified avian and exotics veterinarian Cheryl Greenacre is a professor of Avian and Zoological Medicine at the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine. She says that it’s important to seek out the services of a boarded veterinarian to treat your companion poultry as birds are very different from dogs, cats and horses, and require knowledge of the avian anatomy, physiology and disease processes that are unique to birds.

Greenacre goes on to say that any licensed veterinarian can legally examine, diagnose and treat a chicken or other poultry, but many veterinary schools don’t teach avian medicine as part of their curriculum.

poultry-veterinarian-1
The average veterinarian in private practice mostly sees cats and dogs and probably has a very limited knowledge of avian medicine.
MERRIMONC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

“Some veterinarians have additional experience most likely advertised as an interest in treating poultry, or they are a member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians and have obtained continuing education on poultry and other birds beyond what they learned in veterinary school,” she says.

Jessica Grodio is a house-call poultry veterinarian with Avian Home Veterinary Care, serving the Duchess County, New York area. She notes that at most — or at possibly all — veterinary schools in the United States, students receive very little avian-specific training, unless they intentionally search for this experience or take elective courses offered on birds and exotics.

“The average veterinarian in private practice who sees cats and dogs, unless they have specifically sought out numerous continuing education opportunities, may have a very limited knowledge of avian medicine,” she says. “Birds have very different anatomy than mammals and often the dosages of medications we use in birds are different than the dosages we use in mammals. So it is important for vets to have a good understanding of avian anatomy and medicine if they decide to offer services to birds.”

Grodio has seen vets not properly trained in avian medicine misinterpret radiographs, prescribe specific antibiotics to chickens that are prohibited in food animals and give birds medications that avian vets may not regularly use.

“For example, steroids can be severely immunosuppressive in birds, so they should be used with extreme caution and only for very good reasons,” she says.

Poultry Veterinarian: Plan B

Given these realities, backyard chicken owners should consult a board-certified avian veterinary specialist when their birds get sick. But what if you can’t find a vet like this in your area?

“If there are still no avian vets in your area, try asking local clinics if they are comfortable treating birds,” Matt says. “Ideally, this should be done before problems arise. It is also important to find a vet willing to see birds on an after-hours or emergency basis, as most dog and cat clinics are unwilling. Universities with vet schools may have exotics programs and are often a reliable source for both emergency and routine care. You can also talk to your local pet store for ideas. If they have birds for sale, they should have a vet willing to see the birds if they get sick.”

If a boarded poultry veterinarian is unavailable in your area, at least seek the services of someone who has a demonstrated interest in avian and poultry medicine. “Always establish a relationship with a veterinarian in your area prior to needing one in an emergency, as many emergency practices are not familiar with birds,” Greenacre says.

When you find a vet who expresses an interest in treating your chicken but isn’t board-certified, inquire about what type of training the veterinarian has received in avian medicine.

“Many veterinarians are members of the Association of Avian Veterinarians, which is great, as that organization provides continuing education opportunities, client education handouts, etc., to its veterinary members,” Grodio says. “But keep in mind, a veterinarian only needs to pay annual dues to be a member of that organization. Being a member is certainly not equivalent to going through a two-to-three-year avian residency, sitting for a difficult avian board exam and becoming board-certified. But being a member does show that the veterinarian at least has an interest in birds.”

Kirk agrees that finding a poultry veterinarian can be challenging for many backyard flock owners but recommends reaching out to the veterinarian you use for your other animals for a referral.

“Get recommendations from your primary care veterinarian on vets in your area who will see chickens,” he says. “You should have an established relationship with a veterinarian, preferably an avian veterinarian, prior to any problems occurring within your flock.”

Grodio recommends also reaching out to a specialist outside your area to work with your local vet. “Some avian specialists may be willing to offer consulting services,” she says. “They may be able to consult with your local vet to review X-rays and lab work, and discuss your bird’s case in more detail, to help your vet develop a treatment plan.”

Find a Specialist

Although board-certified avian vets can be difficult to find, it’s worth looking to see if one is located within driving distance of your home. You can locate American Board of Veterinary Practitioners, Avian Practice Diplomates in the United States by using the AVPB “Find an ABVP Specialist” tool at www.abvp.com/find-an-abvp-specialist.

You can also look for vets with an interest in treating poultry in the Association of Avian Veterinarians database located online at www.aav.org/FindAVet.

This article was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Chickens 101 Farm & Garden Flock Talk Health & Nutrition Poultry

What To Do With Baby Chicks After Easter

What to do with baby chicks after Easter is a yearly question as spring brings baby chicks and Easter…and sometimes, the two turn up together. Although many breeders and farm-supply stores halt the purchase of peeps just before the spring holidays, not everyone respects the philosophy that chicks—and ducklings and baby bunnies—are not gifts to be given on Easter.

As a result, there are always well-meaning relatives who arrive for Easter brunch with a basket of peeping baby poultry in tow. 

Should a kind-hearted but misguided soul present your family with a gift of Easter chicks, follow these five steps to ensure these infants’ health and well-being. 

1. Shelter 

Active babies need a safe place to roam and call home, even temporarily. Find a large cardboard box, a storage tote or a high-sided basket to serve as a brooder. Line the bottom with an old towel or rags. If you have pine shavings or straw, use these.

Never use newsprint, as its slick surface can lead to leg development issues. Place this makeshift brooder in the warmest, least drafty part of your house. If you have a portable heater of any sort, set it as close as possible to the brooder, since newborn chicks require a constant temperature of 95°F their first week.

Be sure to keep your pets away from the brooder.  


Read more: Check out these brooder tips for baby chicks!


2. Nourishment 

Use your most shallow saucer to offer the chicks water. Use pea gravel or marbles in the dish to help prevent accidental drownings. As for food, mash-up unseasoned hard-boiled eggs and serve them in a shallow container.

Newly hatched chicks can go up to two to three days without eating, but older chicks will require food a couple of times per day. Finely chopped oatmeal can be mixed in with the mashed egg to extend the food.  

3. Rehoming 

If you are unable or unwilling to keep the chicks, you’ll need to find them a new home as swiftly as possible to avoid the expense of outfitting a proper brooder. If your neighborhood or town has a community bulletin board—actual or virtual—post about the chicks there and include a photo.

Contact your local feed shop or farm supply store to see if they can recommend nearby farms that might be interested in adopting the chicks. Petting farms and animal sanctuaries are other options to consider. Check with your friends, too. You never know if one or more of them might be thinking about starting a backyard flock.  


Read more: Here’s how you can warm your baby chicks without using heat lamps.


5. When All Options Fail 

If you cannot find anyone to adopt your Easter chicks, don’t despair. Call your local Humane Society. Some locations will take in chicks. Others may have a database of organizations, farms and individuals who can accept the birds.

You may also consider taking a long drive around your closest rural or agricultural areas, looking for small farms with Fresh Eggs signs. Approach these flock owners and explain your situation. With luck, your chicks will have a new home soon.  

6. Your Own Microflock 

The gift of backyard chicks might be fortuitous if you already keep chickens or are looking at starting a flock of your own. You’ll still need to outfit a brooder correctly for your Easter peeps, but the time and energy you would have spent trying to find them a home can now be spent on raising your little ones and watching them grow. 

This article about what to do with chicks after easter was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe. 

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Recipes

How to Make Deviled Eggs: A Classic Recipe

How to make deviled eggs is popular at Easter to use up dyed eggs and year-round. Here’s how to make this yummy, classic recipe.

Ingredients

  • 6 large eggs, hard-boiled
  • 3 T. mayonnaise
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. Dijon-style mustard
  • 1 tsp. wine vinegar
  • dash pepper
  • 1 to 3 T. chopped chives, to taste
  • paprika

Preparation

Place eggs in enough cold water to cover completely. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 12 minutes. Drain and cover with cold water, replacing with more cold water after five minutes. When completely cool, carefully remove shells from eggs. Halve eggs lengthwise with a sharp, lightly oiled knife. Leaving whites intact, remove yolks and place in a medium bowl.

Mash the yolks with a fork and add mayonnaise, sugar, salt, mustard, vinegar and pepper. Mix together well. Add chives (optional) or set the chives aside for garnish.

The prettiest deviled eggs are made with the filling piped into the egg-white halves, but you can also spoon it in. Carefully pipe or spoon the mixture into the egg whites, mounding it slightly. Sprinkle the top with paprika and garnish with chives. Chill before serving.

Makes 12 servings.

Variations are the perfect way to personalize deviled eggs for any occasion and taste. You can replace the mayo with any flavor of creamy salad dressing, sour cream or even horseradish sauce. You can add different herbs, shredded cheeses or meats, particularly seafood, such as crabmeat or minced shrimp. Finely diced veggies also make a fun variation on the standard deviled egg. For extra spice, use finely diced hot peppers with a bit of chili powder, and garnish with a sliced olive or cilantro. The possibilities are endless.

This story about how to make deviled eggs was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food Recipes

Dyeing Easter Eggs With Natural Dyes

Dyeing Easter eggs with natural dye sources from the pantry and root cellar results in eggs that are beautiful in their earthiness and charm and peace of mind that the eggs are safe to eat.

The patterns for dyeing Easter eggs presented here were created with natural dyes and using a resist print using herb leaves, rubber bands and wax.

Dyeing Easter Eggs  Materials For Different Colors

  • Red cabbage: blue
  • Onion skins: orange or deep rust
  • Beets: pink
  • Coffee: beige
  • Turmeric: yellow
  • Paprika: muddy rose

Other Materials

  • 1 teaspoon white vinegar per dye bath to help set the color
  • soy wax
  • various-sized craft brushes
  • small tin for melting wax
  • rubber bands (various widths)
  • fresh herbs
  • tulle
  • string

Step 1: Cook the Eggs

Place the eggs in a single layer in a large pot. Cover with cool water by 1 inch, and bring to a rolling boil.

Turn off the heat and leave covered for 12 minutes.

Drain the water and fill the pot with cold water to cool the eggs as quickly as possible. When cool, refrigerate until ready to dye.

Step 2: Make the Dye Baths

dyeing-easter-eggs

Cabbage, Onion Skins & Beets

Thinly slice red cabbage, crush onion skins and grate beets.

Place one cup of your chosen ingredient with one cup of water in a medium saucepan. Do this with each ingredient separately to make three separate natural dyes.

Bring to a boil, cover, lower the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to cool in the pot.

Strain into a glass, pressing on the material to extract as much dye as possible. Add one teaspoon of white vinegar to each of your natural dyes. Cover and refrigerate.

Coffee

Make a very strong cup of coffee. Cool. Add one teaspoon of white vinegar. Cover and refrigerate.

Turmeric & Paprika

Mix one tablespoon of ground turmeric or paprika with one cup of boiling water. Stir to saturate the powder. Let steep for 30 minutes and strain through a fine mesh strainer. Add one teaspoon of white vinegar to each dye bath. Cover and refrigerate.

Step 3: Gather Resist Materials

dyeing-easter-eggs

Wax

Soy wax is available at the craft store. Beeswax is also a good option because it melts at a lower temperature and is easier to remove from the egg.

Melt in a small tin. Aluminum mini pie tins and washed-out tunas are perfect. Set the tin in a skillet of simmering water, creating a double boiler to melt the wax into liquid form. Stay close, as you don’t want to overheat it.

Use small craft brushes to make lines, circles and dots on both white eggs and eggs that have already been dyed. Applying wax will preserve the color you cover.

You can repeat the waxing and coloring to produce several colors on an egg, going from light to dark to make a checkered egg using first white natural egg, then turmeric, then cabbage, then onion skin. (Be careful because the turmeric yellow can get a bit lost in the process.)

When the wax is cool, lower the egg into the dye bath. Cover and refrigerate for two to 24 hours. The longer the soak, the darker the color.

When the egg has achieved the color you desire, chip off as much wax as you can with a fingernail, then rinse under hot tap water, rubbing with your hands to remove the remaining wax.

Rubber Bands

Stretch the rubber bands around the eggs in various positions. Lower them into the dye bath and let them soak, covered and refrigerated, long enough to achieve the desired color. Pat dry on paper towels, then remove the bands to reveal the pattern.

Herbs

Cut fresh sprigs of herb leaves (parsley, thyme and rosemary were used here) and lay them on an 8-inch square of tulle. Lay the egg on top and gather up the sides so the herbs are in close contact with the egg. Twist until tight, and tie with a string.

Lower into the dye bath and let sit in the refrigerator for several hours to get a rich color. Remove the netting and herbs, pat dry on paper towels and admire.

Step 4: Eat Your Eggs

To eat the resulting eggs, be sure to refrigerate them at all stages and not keep them out for more than a few minutes while making the patterns.

If you are not patterning your eggs, you can cook them directly in the dye bath.

Display your dyed Easter eggs in a basket or wooden bowl on the breakfast table and enjoy with your meal, or use them to make recipes such as deviled eggs.

This article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.