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Castration for Cattle: Methods Explained

Post author By Hope Ellis-Ashburn
Post date April 16, 2024
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Castration may seem like one of the more daunting aspects of raising cattle, but there are many good options to choose from that are customizable to your operation.

Reasons to Castrate

According to Lew Strickland, a veterinarian with the University of Tennessee’s Extension Service and College of Veterinary Medicine, reducing aggression in male animals is the top reason for castration. That aggression, fueled by testosterone, is a safety issue for other animals and for humans potentially leading to injury or death.

“The No. 2 reason is meat quality,” he says, recommending implanting with a growth-promoting hormone at the time of castration for an improved growth rate and better marbling of the meat. The growth rate of steers is further influenced by the elimination of sex drive as unlike with bulls they’re no longer expending valuable energy pursuing females. Beyond the physical aspects, castrating calves also leads to an improved bottom line for producers as steers possess a greater value as meat animals than bulls. “It makes the value of the calf more, and the way we market them, they have to be steers,” says Derek Miller, referring to a marketing strategy known as preconditioning. This is when calves are weaned, broken to feed from a bunk and drink from a water trough, have received vaccinations, and if appropriate, have been castrated. If those conditions are met, they’re eligible for special sales where they bring a higher premium. Miller, of Whitwell, Tennessee, has been farming for decades and, when making decisions about his operation, relies on his experience that is heavily steeped in backgrounding calves.

Age of Castration

When it comes to the recommended age for castration, Strickland acknowledges that there are plenty of theories to go around. He recommends castration and implanting at the time of birth. However, he acknowledges, a lot of producers aren’t able to do that. “Most producers wait until they are working their cows and vaccinating, roughly around 3 to 4 months of age,” he says.

Miller falls into this category. “The calves we raise off of our cows, we castrate around 2 to 3 months,” he says. “The calves that we buy to background and precondition, we castrate when we purchase them.”

Typically, if not referring to grass-fed beef, calves will reach a weight of approximately 400 pounds at around 4 months of age, and Strickland recommends that castration occurs before the calf exceeds that weight particularly if the producer’s chosen method of castration is banding. “There’s just too much of a risk factor when they’re getting that old,” he says. “I’m worried about tetanus and not draining properly.”

Choosing a Method

There are several methods of castration to choose from. Banding, a bloodless method, is simple but not always the best choice. “You run into the issue of knocking the calf back a little bit,” Strickland says. “Research has shown that calves recover faster with cutting.”

If banding is the selected method, Strickland recommends that it be employed sooner rather than later and to always use fresh rubber or elastic bands. “The bands will age over time and will not remain as tight as they should be to cause the blood loss for the scrotum to fall off,” he says.

Also, a common mistake that Strickland sees producers make when banding is not capturing both testicles in the band and, he adds, this can be a difficult situation to correct. He further advises that calves that are to be banded receive a tetanus shot one week before the date of banding and a booster at the time of banding. Miller makes use of the banding and vaccination technique for the calves born on his farm.

Cutting, a practice that involves cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum with a knife or scalpel and pulling out the testicles, is another option; it’s Strickland’s preference. When using this method, he advises making sure that you get all the tissue or cords out and, if needed, use some type of fly control. When cutting, Strickland also likes to use a topical bandage known as Aluspray that is applied by spraying it from an aerosol can once the procedure is complete.

“It covers the tissue, and if there is any sort of light bleeding, it helps with clotting,” he says. In terms of cutting, Strickland offers one final caveat. He advises calling your veterinarian before proceeding with any castration that involves a scrotum that is abnormal in appearance.

If you’re new to this technique, your farm veterinarian or another experienced producer, along with publications on the topic from your local extension service, are among the best resources to learn from. Like many producers, Miller makes use of more than one castration method, and he employs cutting on the calves he buys. When cutting, he advises ripping the cords so that the blood clots. “You don’t cut them even,” he says. Both Strick and and Miller advise vaccinating for tetanus when using this method.

Other castration tools that Strickland sees through this work include the Henderson cattle castrating tool and the Newberry castrating knife. After cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum, Strickland says that the Henderson tool is clamped to the cords; then, powered by a drill, it spins the testicles off and in the process twists the blood vessels together which helps to prevent bleeding.

On the other hand, the Newberry knife, which can be used in conjunction with the Henderson tool, is another tool that is used for opening the scrotum from side to side. Strickland advises producers using the Newberry knife to be watchful for an infection stemming from the improper drainage that can occur where the flaps of skin on the scrotum lay against each other and close during the clotting process.

Finally, there are two other tools used for castration. One is the emasculator. The bottom third of the scrotum is removed, and the tool is applied to the cords and closed. This serves to crush and cut the cords to prevent bleeding. This tool is typically used on larger bulls and is recommended to hold the tool in place for 30 seconds to ensure proper crimping of the blood vessels.

The second tool has a similar name, the emasculatome, and can be easily confused. It is used to crush the spermatic cords. When this method is used, Strickland says, the testicles dry up and the scrotum is left in place, never falling off.

Pro Tips

Regardless of the chosen method or methods of castration, there are some tips to keep in mind as you negotiate the process. “I like to castrate in the cooler season of the year when flies are not around as much,” Strickland says. “I don’t have to worry as much about insect control in cooler weather.”

Miller, too, follows this practice but mainly because that is how it fits into his system. “We only buy calves to background or precondition beginning in October or November,” he says. He sells his calves in April. Furthermore, Millers’ calves are born in fall and winter and those are banded before hot weather and fly season begin.

Strickland further advises choosing a clean area that is not muddy and having a partner in place who can hold the calf’s tail straight up. “It helps put them in neutral,” he says. Doing so inhibits kicking and lessens the force of any kicks that do occur.

Finally, Strickland recommends injecting the testicle with 5 to 10 cubic centimeters of lidocaine and then waiting a minute so that it takes full effect before any castration that involves cutting. “It helps with pain relief and improves recovery time,” he says.

One common misconception among producers is that delaying castration until a calf reaches the 500-pound weight range allows the calf to make use of natural testosterone that will help him to grow. “They don’t grow that much from the testosterone they are producing on their own until they reach about six to seven hundred pounds,” Strickland says. If the producer is raising them for the market the 600-to-700-pound weight range is when they should be sold.

With research and practice castrating your beef calves can be a little less daunting and become a more familiar part of your farming operation.

This article about cattle castration was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags castration, cattle, cattle health, raising cattle

Poultry

Raising Chickens for Eggs: 15 Best Practices

Post author By Leah Smith
Post date April 15, 2024
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Raising chickens for eggs takes a bit of earned knowledge, but you don’t have to learn everything the hard way. Here are 15 chicken-related words-to-the-wise that will set you and your laying hens on the right path.

1. Best Breeds

Raising chickens for eggs means first choosing the right breeds. It can be tempting to choose breed(s) based solely on looks, and it’s a plus to appreciate the appearance of the chickens you raise. However, chickens are more than looks.

Look at their egg-laying differences alone. Hens might be extremely prolific, maintain good production throughout the winter or tend to produce sizable eggs. Other characteristics relate to their dispositions, climate tolerances, and typical behaviors.

The value of these traits depends on your wants. Do you want chickens to hatch their own eggs (i.e., do you want broodiness or nonsetters)? Do you want chickens that love to forage (i.e., will your chickens remain penned or escape)? Even great egg production isn’t a good thing for everyone. Sex links (Red, Amber, and Black Stars) lay many eggs, but do you want to sell eggs or are you only interested in a personal supply? With chickens, you can select for what you really want.

2. Dietary Requirements

The composition of your birds’ diet is important especially when raising chickens for eggs. Offering commercially produced feed ensures hens receive the 16% to 18% protein they need for egg production. It contains carbohydrates as well, of course; important for energy but not egg laying.

Though chickens like treats of scratch grain, kitchen scraps, etc., these tend to be high on carbs and low on protein; overconsumption of them will reduce the amount of feed they acquire, leading to lower egg production. Chicken diets should be 9 parts commercial feed to 1 part other foods to ensure sufficient protein. Or, as a different metric, you should only put out as much “treat” as can be consumed by your flock in 20 minutes.

However, if you desire to reduce your dependence on commercial feed and have other food resources available on your homestead, feel free to trial to see, for example, how the addition of cultured milk; fresh byproducts of on-farm slaughtering; a protein-rich plant such as moringa; the inclusion of other protein sources such as legumes, sunflower seeds and fishmeal; or insect foraging might reduce your need to buy feed while keeping up protein levels.

3. Supplement Needs

Additionally, there are other things to keep in mind when feeding your chickens. Calcium is important to ensure strong eggshells, so a supply of free-choice oyster shells is a good idea. Lacking teeth with which to grind food, offering grit will help with the proper breakdown of food in the gizzard — an essential when feeding scratch grain and other non-ground foods.

Lastly, regard it as a dietary supplement to have enough feeder space so that all chickens could conceivably eat at the same time, as limited space could lead to individuals going without.

4. Just Add Water

When raising chickens for eggs, don’t forget that water is just as important as food, as going without could lead to stress molts or interruptions in egg production. It must be always kept fresh and unfrozen in the winter and provide enough waterer space so that all chickens have ready access as chickens can be territorial, and “guarded” watering spots may lead to deprivation for some.

Ironically, this important resource must be handled properly as excessive dampness is especially deleterious to bird health in the henhouse. Waterers must be at the correct height for the chickens, which is level with the height of their backs. Too high and they may not be able to reach it, but too low and water will dribble from their beaks as they stand to swallow, wetting the floor and bedding.

Breeds for Your Needs

The more suited a chicken breed is to your specific situation, the more you’ll benefit from its presence and the happier you will be; your hens will probably be happier, too! Here are a few chicken characteristics and the breeds (occasionally color-specific) that best embody them.

Broody: Cochin, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Silkie

Nonsetters: Ancona, Dominique, Polish, Silver Gray Dorking

Cold-Hardy: Ameraucana, Black Australorp, Brahma, Delaware, Salmon Faverolle, Welsummer, Wyandotte

Heat-Tolerant: Ancona, Hamburg, Leghorn, Whiting

Mellow/Quiet/Family Friendly: Ameraucana, Bielefelder, Orpington, Langshan, Salmon Faverolle, Speckled Sussex, Wyandotte

Top Egg Producers (Asterisks are the very top egg producers!): Sex Link*, Pearl White Leghorn*, Whiting*, Black Australorp, Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire, Plymouth Rock, Welsummer

Sustained Winter Egg-Production: Brahma, Jersey Giant, Orpington, Salmon Faverolle

Dual-Purpose (raising for egg and meat production): Bielefelder, Delaware, Jersey Giant, New Hampshire, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Speckled Sussex

Active Foragers: Cuckoo Maran, Dominique, Silver Gray Dorking, Hamburg, Whiting, Wyandotte

5. Chicken Checklist

You may be surprised by how much stuff chickens need – roosts, nesting boxes, feed, supplements, fencing, heaters for your waterers, and more. You’ll want them to have an area for dust bathing. And you may need a special area for confining an injured hen or a broody hen. Though it is doubtless impossible to anticipate all your future needs, a little research (via books, the internet, and/or visiting someone’s flock) can help eliminate the surprise at every turn!

laying-hen-mistakes — Water is essential, starting on day 1. For every 25 chicks, fill two 1-quart waterers with room temperature water and place them in the brooder.
CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

6. Molting Misinterpretation

For fledgling owners, molting can be an uncertain time as feather loss — and occasional weight loss — is disconcerting. For those raising chickens for eggs, it’s disconcerting because your hens stop laying. But molting is a natural process by which chickens replace old feathers with new ones. This renewal is often triggered by the decrease in daylight hours in autumn, an ideal time as their new feathers will arrive for winter.

But most hens have their first molt at 18 months (regardless), and spring or summer molts are far from unheard of. Also, molts can be soft (losing only a few feathers) or hard (losing almost all feathers) and can take anywhere from 8 to 12 weeks or more. So there is some variation in molting. However, note that “unnatural” or stress molts (typically out-of-season) can result from disease, chilling, and going without water or food, indicating a separate issue that must be dealt with.

7. Brushing Aside Broodiness

A broody hen wants to hatch eggs, which is a problem if it isn’t what you have in mind. Though often triggered by the increasing day length of spring, hens may become broody at any time.

You can spot a broody hen easily: She seldom leaves her nest, and when she does, she’ll fluff her feathers, fan her tail, and cluck incessantly to create a “fierce” appearance; eats and drinks little; and makes grumbling sounds and is prone to pecking when you approach her. Her egg production will drop off; plus, she is blocking a nest from used by others.

Even if you think you can manage one broody hen, broodiness can be contagious and spread through a flock. One hen can quickly become four, and your egg production will really suffer.

To end broodiness, try repeatedly removing the broody hen from its broody stop and/or blocking her access to it; carrying her around, especially to the food; placing frozen bottles under her to create discomfort; and if all else fails, putting her in “jail”— an unstable or swinging, airy cage with food and water but no bedding in it. Check every day to see when the broodiness has taken wing.

8. Nifty Nesting

Whether your chickens are confined to a yard or allowed to range freely, you want to know where to gather your eggs. So it’s important to make your nesting boxes inviting to encourage their use. They should have a 1-foot square base and measure 18 inches high.

Ideally, their location should be slightly darkened and secluded; ours have curtains of tarp-like material to help obscure the opening of each (and discourage egg eating). One box per quintet of hens is recommended.

9. Act Your Age

When raising chickens for eggs, know that hens will begin laying eggs at around 6 months and can continue for 5 to 10 years. However, peak production is for the first 2 years, leaving you to decide how long to keep your hens around. No matter your decision, you must know how old each hen is, or rather, if she is still laying eggs.

We have always bought (never hatched) our laying hens and thus have been able to have a yearly changing succession of our favorite breeds. It was easy to know which ones were 2 or 3 years old. If your flock has a single breed across multiple generations, checking vents is your best bet to know who is laying or not. The vent (call it the egg opening!) of a laying hen will have a moist appearance and a paler color than her other skin surfaces. Also, her rear underside should feel soft if she is laying; a tight underside probably means no eggs.

10. Room to Roost

Roosting is an important chicken activity. Perched on a roost, hens can cozy together and feel safe and protected. Roosting space is a good way to signal to your flock that this is where they are to spend the night. Hens require 1 foot of roost per bird, and roosts should be arranged at least 18 inches off the ground.

11. Nighty Night

Many people make the mistake of thinking they don’t have any nighttime predators on their property. Then, they don’t shut their chickens in at night; the chickens come inside to roost and that is that.

Rest assured, even if you don’t begin your chicken-keeping career with raccoons, opossums, or other nocturnal nuisances visiting your henhouse in search of eggs or the chickens themselves as a meal, you eventually will. Even if you don’t attract those animals, even benign nighttime visitors (cats, rabbits, etc.) will still disturb and stress your flock. So be sure to lock them up!

12. Keep it Clean

Your henhouse should be as spartan as possible to allow for quick visual assessments that it’s secure. If you have never had rats on your property, this is good news. You want to keep it that way, and you never know when they might wander through the neighborhood (rural or urban) looking for a new home.

Don’t have stray boards, boxes, barrels or other items in or around your house that might offer locations for them to hide. Don’t leave food in the house or yard overnight to attract animals of any kind.

It’s easier to avoid pests in the first place than to rid yourself of them after they have arrived.

13. On the Job

Though this isn’t the sort of mistake that will harm your chickens, it’s certainly one that will do you a disservice. Not making proper use of your flock as garden insect-pest removers, compost-pile turners, weed-seed eliminators, even agents of fly control in the barnyard, means you aren’t using them to their full potential. Chickens are omnivores, with a taste for everything from meat to seeds to plant biomass, so make good use of them, and hopefully less work for you.

14. Social Director

“Pecking order” got that name for a reason, so it should come as no surprise that you must watch your birds’ behavior. Providing sufficient space and food usually prevents any major problems. However, roosters can help you here; they’re important members of the flock even if fertilized eggs aren’t desired.

A good rooster (not all are good at their job) will break up hen fights, find and “announce” food sources, signal when danger is around and, of course, be the alarm clock! The size of your flock dictates the number of roosters you should have. Generally, one rooster for every 10 to 25 hens is correct, the higher end of the spectrum working well if fertile eggs aren’t required. Too few hens (or too many roosters) can lead to rooster fights, so always pay attention to your rooster numbers and dispositions. If you happen to get a rooster with an unfavorable disposition (one that jumps at humans, for example), it won’t improve its behavior and should be removed.

15. Space Out

When working on building/fencing projects, construct not for the current size of your flock but for the size you intend it to be. Probably one of the simpler tips included, it is also one of the best one for saving time and unneeded expenses. If you plan on having a larger flock in the future than you are housing currently, or want extra space for hatching or other special undertakings, keep this in mind. Yes, be realistic and practical about your target goals. But always be mindful of what you are working towards, too.

This article about raising chickens for eggs was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags backyard eggs, egg-laying chickens, hens

Health & Nutrition Poultry

Chicken Diseases: 5 Common Ailments

Post author By Erica Webb
Post date April 15, 2024
No Comments on Chicken Diseases: 5 Common Ailments

Chicken diseases are not always top of mind when you first start raising chickens. Chickens are relatively easy to raise and, when cared for properly, will provide a plethora of backyard eggs. Understanding disease and health conditions and how to prevent them will help keep your birds healthy and laying for many years to come. Here are five common backyard poultry diseases to get to know.

Chicken Diseases: Coccidiosis

A protozoal parasite known as Eimeria, which infects multiple intestinal sites within the bird, causes this disease. Coccidia is almost universally present in all operations and occurs after ingesting an abundance of spores often found in infected feed or feces. This protozoon sets up shop in the intestinal lining, reducing the bird’s ability to absorb nutrients leading to diarrhea, lethargy, weight loss and, in extreme cases, death.

Although it can affect birds of all ages, young birds are often overrepresented due to their naïve immune system. Due to the nature of this disease, birds often pick up secondary bacterial infections because of their compromised state, making it difficult to diagnose based solely off gross observation. With the help of a veterinarian, a fecal float can be performed to help diagnose if coccidia is present.

Even with great management, coccidia can’t always be controlled. Reducing risk is key to preventing an outbreak in your flock. Always provide a clean and dry environment for your birds. Removal of feces frequently greatly reduces pathogen exposure and spread.

Given a healthy flock of birds, coccidia can be self-limiting under certain conditions; however, treatments are available to fast-track recovery. Coccidiastat medications are available on the market today that are highly recommended for growing birds. The most common, Amprolium, is often found in medicated feeds or given as a water additive. This medicated feed should be given at 1-day-old and continued until approximately 20 weeks of age, or right before the birds begin laying. Because most birds often recover from coccidia infections, vaccines aren’t usually given.

dealing-with-disease — Bumblefoot is an infection caused by bacteria; it’s usually the result of an injury to the foot, such as a cut, scratch or puncture that then becomes infected.
CHAD ROBERTSON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Chicken Diseases: Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot is a common name for pododermatitis or infection affecting the bottom of the foot. This abscess-type lesion is caused by a bacteria known as Staphylococcus which is commonly found in the environment. This condition often presents with swelling of the foot, lameness and a hard, pus-filled pocket on the bottom of the foot covered by a round, dark-brown scab.

Contributing factors that may lead to this condition include being overweight, long toenails or having a leg injury. Deformities or leg injuries can cause uneven weight distribution to the foot pads which stresses the soft tissue of the footpad leading to infection.

In many cases, bumblefoot can be managed at home if found early. Soaking the bird’s foot in warm Epson salt solution will help draw out and kill the bacteria causing the infection. After soaking, the area can be cleaned with a 2% chlorohexidine or betadine solution and wrapped to keep the foot clean and dry.

Ointments containing silver or other antibiotic properties may also be beneficial in clearing the infection.

If infection persists, surgical debridement by a veterinarian will help eliminate dead tissue and promote faster healing. Environmental management is a key contributor to reducing incidence of Bumblefoot. Prevent accumulation of mud and feces in loafing areas and provide soft bedding. Perches should be round or wide enough that they do not cause pressure sores when stood on for extended periods of time. Allowing birds to exhibit natural foraging behaviors such as free-ranging in grass has also been shown to decrease instances of infection.

Marek’s Disease

Marek’s disease is by far one of the most common viral infections in backyard birds and isn’t treatable once signs have begun. Marek’s disease is caused by a chicken herpes virus that is contracted from other birds by inhaling virus laden dander. Though birds of any age can contract Marek’s, it appears to be more common in young growing birds less than a year old.

This virus causes a wide range of symptoms varying in severity with an average mortality rate around 50%. Birds often show signs of depression early on which progresses to full body paralysis/ataxia and a splayed leg appearance. Upon necropsy, tumors are often found throughout many organ systems including the liver, heart, kidneys and spleen.

Though there is no treatment for Marek’s, vaccines are available to prevent infection. Vaccines should be given as chicks to build immunity before potential exposure. This is a lifelong disease, so those birds who survive infection will be carriers and can shed virus to other birds throughout their life.

Marek’s is exceptionally hardy in the environment and lives in poultry dander for months to years. Because of this, new birds brought in should always be quarantined prior to introduction into a flock. Previous outbreaks will require intense disinfection of coops, feeders and waterers prior to new birds inhabiting them.

Careful consideration should be taken when attending poultry shows or sales, as this virus is easily carried to and from farms on clothing and shoes. The combination of vaccination and good biosecurity make this an extremely preventable disease.

Avian Influenza

Avian influenza or bird flu is caused by an influenza type A virus. There are two types of bird flu which vary in severity of disease. Low-pathogenic avian influenza naturally occurs in migratory birds and can affect domestic chickens without causing much illness.

High pathogenic avian influenza is extremely contagious and causes severe illness with high mortality rates in all poultry birds. HPAI is a major concern for the U.S. poultry industry. Outbreaks of HPAI have huge economic impacts in the meat and egg markets by easily wiping out huge flocks in a short time. This affects farmers and consumers by reducing food supply and international trade.

Those with backyard flocks may be more susceptible to avian influenza due to birds being in proximity to wildlife birds. Because of this, be sure to have a good understanding of biosecurity to keep domestic backyard birds, production birds and wild birds safe.

Symptoms of avian influenza vary but include purple discoloration of the wattle, combs or legs, nasal discharge, sneezing, diarrhea, incoordination or even sudden death without any clinical signs. If these symptoms are noted, caution should be taken when handling sick or deceased birds to prevent zoonosis or transfer of disease to humans.

Currently, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services conducts yearly surveillance to identify risk factors among wildlife for avian influenza to prevent devastating outbreaks. If flock owners suspect an outbreak of avian flu, reach out to your local veterinarian or state agriculture department to ensure proper testing and diagnostics are performed to prevent the spread of this disease.

Currently, no approved vaccines are available for avian influenza. Although vaccines exist, often they aren’t congruent to the high-path strains that are seen during an outbreak. The best method of control is to maintain biosecurity by quarantining birds coming in from outside sources such as bird auctions and trade shows, and being aware that wild birds living amongst your flock can harbor this disease.

Mycoplasma

Mycoplasmosis is a common respiratory infection found in backyard poultry caused by a group of mycoplasma bacteria. Apart from the typical respiratory signs of wheezing, watery eyes and coughing, mycoplasma also causes a reduction in egg production followed by weight loss, joint disease and overall loss of thriftiness. Although the disease is more severe in turkeys, mortality rates of mycoplasma are relatively low. In chickens, subclinical infections may exist, showing no outward signs of sickness apart from a decrease in egg production. Over time, impaired immune function caused by infection of mycoplasma can lead to secondary opportunistic respiratory disease, such as bronchitis, which often leads to more severe sickness and death.

Diagnostic testing is needed to confirm presence of the pathogen and verify strain. This is done by collecting tracheal swabs and sending samples off to a diagnostic lab for testing.

Mycoplasma can be vertically transmitted through egg production meaning that an infected hen can transmit disease to their chicks through the formation of her egg.

Because of this, breeding hens carrying mycoplasma should be treated aggressively with antibiotics or culled as breeders.

The most effective control of mycoplasma is to maintain good biosecurity by responsibly introducing new birds to the flock and monitoring mycoplasma by testing the flock frequently. Some vaccines are commercially available although thorough monitoring and biosecurity have proven to be more efficacious.

Backyard birds can be a fun venture for many hobbyists. As a common theme, biosecurity and a well-managed environment seem to be the best way to prevent outbreaks of chicken diseases. Should chicken diseases persist, having a good relationship with a poultry veterinarian will be helpful in providing diagnostics and determining the best route for treatment of the disease or pathogen. If there is concern about human health or severe disease, always contact your state agricultural department or state veterinarian for further information. By being proactive about poultry health, we can avoid many chicken diseases and spend more time enjoying the pleasures of backyard poultry.

This article about chicken diseases was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags chicken diseases

Creative Pumpkins: Top Novelty Varieties to Grow This Season

Post author By Sanjeev Saini
Post date April 15, 2024
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Novelty pumpkins are varieties of pumpkins grown primarily for their unique and interesting appearance rather than for their suitability as food. These pumpkins come in various shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. They are popular for decorative purposes especially during the fall and around Halloween. Common types of novelty pumpkins include white, warty, mini, long-stemmed, and multi-colored. Jung Seed carries a wide variety of pumpkins including many novelty pumpkins. Here are the nine favorite novelty pumpkins you should consider growing this season.

Blue Doll Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

A unique blue pumpkin that is not only beautiful, but delicious too! Deeply ribbed, slightly flattened fruits are somewhat bumpy and hard-shelled with a cool greenish-blue gray color that is certain to add interest to fall displays. They weigh 20 to 24 pounds with sweet, deep-orange flesh that is fantastic for both cooking and baking. They are high-yielding and have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew.

Cinderella’s Carriage Hybrid Pumpkin

Grow pumpkins as charming as the fairy tale. This 2014 AAS Winner is the first hybrid Cinderella-type pumpkin on the market. The magical reddish orange to pinkish-red colored fruits has a flattened-round shape like the pumpkin carriage from Cinderella fairy tale fame, measuring 15 to 18 inches across and weighing from 20 to 35 pounds each. The vigorous vines are higher yielding than others of this type, bearing 5 to 7 fruits per plant, plus Powdery Mildew tolerance keeps them producing longer. Some lucky gardeners might also find a pale blue pumpkin in their patch. The fruits are not only extremely decorative but are delightfully tasty with a sweet, nutty flavor.

Cotton Candy Novelty Pumpkin

A novel all-white pumpkin. Even the flesh is white! The fruits are nearly round, measuring about 9 inches and weighing 5 to 12 pounds each. They have strong, sturdy handles and their glossy skin makes them excellent for painting and carving into unique jack-o-lanterns. Be sure to harvest when white and store in the dark to maintain the best color. Very productive.

Dark Knight Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

The dark color adds a dramatic dimension to fall displays. The oval 8-to-10-pound fruits have deep ribs and retain their dark green coloring if picked early. Allow them to ripen on the vine and they turn a medium green with orange flecks. The fruits have a long shelf life ensuring they’ll last through the fall season. Vines possess good tolerance to powdery mildew.

Fireball Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

The Fireball is a new novelty pumpkin that’s sure to light up your fall display. It has rounded yellow orange, lightly warted fruit displaying green stripes that change to orange as they mature. It has incredibly dark handles. Averaging 9 pounds, these pumpkins will add wonderful variety to pumpkin patches. Vigorous plants have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew and zucchini yellow mosaic virus.

One Too Many Novelty Pumpkin

This pumpkin looks like a bloodshot eyeball. There’s a character in every crowd, and it’s no different in the pumpkin patch. These 20-pound round to oblong fruits have a white background accented with midribs and stippled veins of red. The productive vines have good Powdery Mildew tolerance plus some virus tolerance.

Polar Bear Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

The Polar Bear Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin are large, white pumpkins that retain their color in outdoor displays. The fruits typically average 30-65 pounds, but if growing conditions are ideal, they may grow 100 pounds or more. The skin is smooth with slight suturing and won’t turn beige if left in the field too long. Great for carving.

Porcelain Doll Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

Pretty pink pumpkins are a delight for the eyes and the taste buds. These blocky, 20-to-24-pound fruits are naturally pink on the outside, but have sweet, deep orange flesh on the inside that is fantastic for baking and cooking. The vigorous vines have good tolerance to both powdery and downy mildews.

Warty Goblin Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin

It’s frightful and yet delightful. Heavily warted pumpkins mature to a bright orange while the warts retain their green coloration for several weeks post-harvest. The hard-shell fruits average 8 to 20 pounds each. With its dark green, firmly attached handle to the novel appearance and you have a pumpkin perfect for kids and roadside stands. Good resistance to Powdery Mildew.

These specialty pumpkins not only add visual interest but also provide an opportunity to experiment with different varieties and expand your gardening skills. Whether you are planning to use them for seasonal displays or culinary creations, you will enjoy the harvest of your very own pumpkin patch filled with extraordinary treasures. If you are looking for additional novelty varieties or traditional pumpkins, be sure to visit Jung Seed Company.

Chicken Coops & Housing Poultry

How to Clean a Chicken Coop: Tips to Do It Right

Post author By Erin Snyder
Post date April 15, 2024
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How to clean a chicken coop is something every chicken keeper needs to know to keep a flock healthy and happy. Just as you wash the dishes or dust the living room regularly, routinely cleaning the coop will help prevent common health concerns in your flock.

Knowing some cleaning tips can save you time cleaning your coop. So, grab a pitchfork, a bottle brush and a broom, and let’s start cleaning!

Essential Cleaning Tools

Cleaning the coop for our chickens starts with having the proper tools to do the job quickly and efficiently. To do that, you will need the following:

Pitchfork to fork out soiled bedding
Trash can or wheelbarrow for hauling away old straw, wood shavings, etc.
Broom and dustpan for sweeping out dust and removing cobwebs
Trowel to scoop out nesting box material
Ice scraper to scrape dried manure off the coop floor
Bottle brush to scrub waterers and feeders
Facemask to protect against dust and other particles that can irritate your respiratory tract

Say Goodbye to Deep Litter

The deep litter method has been practiced in backyard flocks for centuries. This method of cleaning the coop consists of removing the bedding soiled by chickens once or twice a year. Instead of removing the manure, chicken keepers place more straw or wood shavings on top.

The manure will break down throughout the year and become a perfect fertilizer, ready for the garden. The old bedding is often placed in the garden to overwinter and break down to provide nutrient-rich soil for next year’s vegetables.

Yes, this may sound ideal for the gardener and flock owner. But the deep litter method can also cause some health issues for the flock.

Chicken manure breaks down into particles of dust. These particles can irritate the respiratory tract, so experts advise wearing a mask over your nose and mouth when handling chicken manure. Not only is this dust harmful to you, but it is also harmful to your chickens. And the dust from manure breakdown can cause respiratory issues in the flock as they scratch through the bedding, causing illness and even death in chickens.

The deep litter method is also known for harboring bacteria, fungi and diseases such as coccidiosis, as well as external and internal parasites. Never use the deep litter method housing hens five years or older, as these aging ladies’ immune systems may no longer be able to handle the bacteria often found in deep litter.

So what should you do instead? Remove all the bedding from the coop floor and nesting boxes weekly to keep your coop clean and chickens healthy. Depending on the size of your enclosure, this will only take a couple of minutes. Trust me, the rewards of a clean coop are worth the time it takes to clean it.

Choosing the Correct Bedding

Selecting a bedding can be tricky as there are many options. Chicken keepers have many preferences, from straw and hay to sand or wood shavings.

There are some pros and cons to each bedding type. In my experience, straw has been the best option for my flock, as it is easy to fork out, while other beddings (wood shavings and sand) can be difficult and more time-consuming. Straw is less likely to cause a crop impaction than sand or shavings and will provide hens with hours of fun and foraging as they search for remaining seed heads to snack on.

Hay is generally considered not the best bedding option for backyard flocks. Unlike straw, hay is expensive to purchase, is more likely to grow mold, and carries a greater risk of combustion.

Because of these safety concerns, avoid using hay as bedding whenever possible.

Cleaning the Waterers

Cleaning waterers should be a part of your daily routine. Waterers should be emptied, rinsed and refilled with fresh drinking water twice daily.

But I also like to clean mine more thoroughly once a week as my hens enjoy filling them up with dirt as they happily scratch or dust bathe nearby. I use a drop of dish detergent, hot water and a bottle brush (that I only use on my chicken waterers) to clean them quickly and efficiently.

Always be sure to rinse thoroughly before refilling.

Cleaning Feeders

How to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the chicken feeders. This can be a complex process. So, several years ago, I switched from a hanging poultry feeder to rubber feed pans. These feed pans are easy to clean, and you can add or remove the number of pans as your flock dwindles or grows.

Fill feeders twice daily with as much food as your chickens will eat in 20 minutes. Empty remaining food and rinse feeders at least once (preferably twice) daily. Wash feeders weekly in hot, sudsy water and thoroughly rinse before returning them to the flock. Always be sure feeders have dried before refilling them by placing them in a well-ventilated dry area or on a porch in the sun.

Cleaning the Run

Knowing how to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the run — an oft-overlooked daily task. Check the run and remove spilled food, freshly laid eggs or leftover table scraps to deter predators and rodents from trying to enter the coop or run.

You can also use this time to check for any signs (holes in wire mesh or digging) of predators trying to gain access.

Regularly cleaning the coop, run, waterers and feeders may seem like a lot of work, but it is one of the best ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.

This article about how to clean a chicken coop was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Tags chicken coops, cleaning tips

Uncategorized

Growing Good Podcast #75: Michele Thorne, farmer and executive director of Good Meat Project

Post author By Allison Lemons
Post date April 10, 2024
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PREMIER SPONSOR: Home Fresh® Poultry Feeds (Kent Nutrition Group)

From Oregon, Michele Thorne talks with show host Lisa Munniksma about support and resources for livestock farmers and meat consumers from The Good Meat Project, the challenges of farming on rented land, the finding value in “failure” and more.

Hear about all the ways that Thorne engages with the food system through what she refers to as “choice, trade and destiny.” She talks all about The Good Meat Project, a nonprofit building pathways toward responsible meat production and consumption for consumers, producers, processors, and food professionals. Learn about how they bridge gaps and break down barriers between all of these stakeholders in the food system and how you as a farmer can plug into the free resources and education the organization offers. Also hear about the Real Burger of Earth Day promotion happening in April each year—bringing together and promoting grassfed-beef producers—and a number of other promotions and learning communities meant to uplift all “good meat” farmers.

Thorne talks about her background in gardening and then keeping livestock, beginning with inheriting ducks and chickens and progressing through just about every type of poultry there is, plus pigs. We cover the ecosystem services animals provide to the land and to the farmer and the value in that over and above the eggs, meat and milk they provide. Thorne talks, too, about how her farming mindset changed after evacuating her property from wildfires with 200 animals in tow. Conversation turns, of course, to land access and the challenges associated with that, as so many farming conversations do.

Thorne gets vulnerable about failure and how we can learn from it — a lesson that endures in farming and elsewhere. She talks about how her experience in farming and her decision to back away from making a living farming helps her in her work with The Good Meat Project now.

Listen to the end to hear about Food Slain, the podcast that Thorne hosted for a few years focusing on food chain issues, from the adulteration of honey to the U.S.’s food-labeling laws. Hear about her thoughts on starting in our backyards to understand and ultimately change the food system for people, animals, the environment and the economy.

Real Burger of Earth Day website

The Good Meat Project website

The Good Meat Project on Instagram

Donate to The Good Meat Project

Food Slain podcast

Food Recipes

Maple Rosemary Chicken Recipe

Post author By Lori Rice
Post date April 9, 2024
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Maple rosemary chicken is a standout recipe for any occasion whether it’s a cozy night in or a weekend family dinner. In this recipe, whole chicken is coated in a buttery rub. As it bakes, the butter drenches the meat and the root vegetables below it with a rich glaze that has a touch of maple sweetness.

I usually keep the peel on the carrots and gold potatoes but remove it from sweet potatoes. Feel free to prepare them however you prefer, just ensure they are all cut in similar-size pieces for even cooking.

YIELD: 4

Ingredients

Maple-Rosemary Butter Rub

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 ⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

Roasted Chicken

3 medium carrots, cut in 1½-inch pieces
2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 11 ⁄2-inch pieces
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut in 11 ⁄2-inch pieces
15 yellow broiler onions, trimmed and peeled
1 ⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
pinch of ground black pepper
one 4-pound whole chicken
3 garlic cloves, slightly smashed and peeled
fresh rosemary leaves for garnish, optional

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Make the rub by stirring together the softened butter, minced rosemary, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Stir in the maple syrup until a creamy spread forms. Set it aside.

Prepare the chicken and vegetables by scattering the carrots, sweet potatoes, gold potatoes and 12 of the broiler onions on the bottom of a 5-quart Dutch oven or roasting pan. Sprinkle the vegetables with a quarter teaspoon of salt and a pinch of black pepper.

Place the chicken on a plate or flat working surface. Remove any parts that might be inside and trim any excess skin around the opening of the cavity.

Take one clove of smashed garlic and rub it all over the chicken. Get up under the skin over the breasts and over the legs. Allow any fragments of garlic that may break off the clove to remain on the chicken. Put the remaining clove along with the two other cloves and the three remaining boiler onions inside the chicken.

Rub the chicken with the rosemary-maple butter. Then, coat it evenly over the skin and up under the skin.

Tie the legs of the chicken together with kitchen string and fold the end of each wing behind the chicken. Transfer the chicken to the baking pan, setting it over the vegetables.

Bake for about 90 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the most center part of the chicken reads 165 degrees. After about 60 minutes, if the top of the chicken appears to be browning too rapidly, cut a piece of aluminum foil to cover the chicken. Tent the foil and lay it over the chicken to slow the browning while the meat fully cooks.

Remove the pan from the oven. Sprinkle the fresh rosemary leaves over the vegetables if using. Let the chicken rest for five minutes. Carve to serve with the roasted vegetables.

This maple rosemary chicken recipe article was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags chicken recipe, maple rosemary chicken, recipe

Health & Nutrition Poultry

Probiotics for Chickens: Why They Are Important

Post author By Erin Snyder
Post date April 9, 2024
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Probiotics for chickens are just as important for their immune systems and digestive tracts as probiotics and ferments are for humans. With their ability to help ward off harmful bacteria and viruses and keep our guts healthy and robust, it’s no wonder we want to include probiotics in our everyday diet. Not only does feeding chickens probiotics improve their well-being, but it’ll also improve their flock owner’s health.

What Are Probiotics?

The word probiotic means “for life.” So, it’s only fitting that every living creature needs probiotics to thrive. Probiotics are beneficial bacteria and yeast known as live organisms in your chicken’s body. These organisms line the chicken’s digestive tract and intestines with a protective coating to help prevent infections and disease. Probiotics also help to raise a chicken’s antibodies to further protect against illness and harmful bacteria or yeast. (More on that later.)

While all chickens naturally have some probiotics in their bodies, just like humans, supplementing their daily diet will increase these beneficial microbes, resulting in a healthier, more robust flock.

Probiotic Pros

So many benefits come from supplementing your chickens’ diet with probiotics that it’s difficult to know where to begin. While we know that probiotics help control salmonella, E. coli and other bacterial infection outbreaks in backyard flocks and commercial chicken farms, you might wonder what else probiotics do. Before diving into different ways probiotics benefit our chickens, let’s look at how probiotics can help combat and avoid salmonella and E. coli outbreaks.

Salmonella and E. coli are members of the bacteria family. Both can be very harmful and cause sickness and, in extreme cases, death. Probiotics work to coat a chicken’s intestinal tract to protect against these and other harmful bacteria and yeast attacking the intestinal walls. Probiotics stimulate the micro-floral and pathogen growth in a hen’s intestines, combating harmful bacteria with good bacteria in the intestinal tract. Research has proven that probiotics can not only lessen a chicken’s chance of contracting salmonella, but they can also heal the gut of a chicken that has a salmonella infection.

While E. coli exists in all poultry manure, it only becomes a problem when a chicken’s (or flock’s) digestive system becomes susceptible to the E. coli. These bacteria can happen because an individual hen is sick, but the infection usually starts because a chicken has an unhealthy gut. The infected hen will poop manure infected with E.-coli, spreading the bacteria to the rest of the flock. E. coli infections are a severe condition that will spread through the flock and could also harm you and your family if you consume the eggs or meat from infected birds.

Probiotics for chickens are the best way to combat an E coli outbreak. In contrast, antibiotics can increase the E.-coli bacteria leading to death. Probiotics eliminate the effects of an E. coli infection by safely removing harmful bacteria from an infected hen’s intestines. Since the antibiotics’ job is to kill all bacteria (good or bad), it makes sense that probiotics would be a more effective treatment for an E.-coli outbreak.

So, how else do probiotics benefit our flocks? Probiotics provide backyard flocks the chance to live healthy, productive lives. Chickens raised on probiotics are more energetic and lay bigger eggs with thicker eggshells. These traits are due to probiotics enhancing the gut’s ability to break down carbohydrates, releasing the necessary energy our chickens need to thrive.

Did you know that 60% of a chicken’s immune system is in their digestive tract? This explains why chicks and chickens raised on probiotics have a stronger immune system capable of fighting infections and diseases, including cancer.

Researchers at PoultryDVM.com have found that probiotics may prevent and, in some instances, help to treat toxins, infections, bacteria and conditions. These include avian intestinal spirochetosis, avian tuberculosis, chronic respiratory disease, coccidiosis, E.-coli, fowl cholera, heatstroke, salmonella, sour crop, yolk sac infection and more.

Probiotics can also have positive side effects on molting chickens and hens recovering from antibiotic treatment and prevent respiratory diseases. However, never use probiotics to treat a sick or injured chicken unless directed otherwise by a licensed veterinarian.

Adding to Your Flock’s Diet

Just as you take supplements daily to keep yourself healthy, your flock needs probiotics daily to thrive. Adding probiotics to your chickens’ daily diet is very easy. There are two ways to incorporate them into your flock’s diet, as probiotics can get mixed into either feed or water.

Feed Probiotics

Pros: Feed probiotics are convenient because you only have to mix in probiotics when opening a food bag. It’s just once and done without the hassle of a precise probioticsto-feed ratio.

Cons: The downside to probiotics mixed into feed is your lack of control over your chickens’ consumption. The probiotic powder often sifts down to the bottom of the bag, leaving your flock with little to no probiotics at the top and potentially consuming too many nutrients when the bag starts running low.

Water Probiotic

Pros: Water-soluble probiotics are my favorite. Just add the probiotics to a gallon of water, and that’s it. And if all flock members drink, everyone gets equal nutrition daily.

Cons: Many flock owners consider water-soluble probiotics a con due to the need to refill waterers twice daily. However, chickens prefer fresh drinking water, so changing water twice daily with or without probiotics is advised.

Whether you choose to mix probiotics into feed or water is a personal choice. Store all probiotics in a dry area in an airtight container. Avoid placing probiotics in direct sunlight, especially when mixed with water.

Recommendations

There are many poultry probiotics, so what should you be looking for? Probiotics formatted specifically for chickens should always include lactobacillus. It’s one of the most common and beneficial probiotics in a chicken’s gut. Buy a probiotic that includes lactobacillus in its ingredients.

When purchasing probiotics, read online reviews to see what other poultry keepers recommend. While there can be conflicting reviews, look for probiotics that help sick chickens recover. An easy rule to remember is: If it can help the sick, it can help to prevent the healthy from contracting an illness.

Most importantly, when you find a good probiotic, stick with it. While purchasing the cheapest probiotic currently on the market may be tempting, this practice could cause your flock more harm than good. A chicken’s digestive tract and immune system can be delicate, and the constant switching of probiotics could make individual birds sick.

Avoiding Probiotics

Even when fed a proper diet with probiotics, chickens can still become ill and require medication. Never feed probiotics to a chicken taking medication (especially antibiotics) unless directed by your veterinarian.

Once the chicken has completed a round of antibiotics, provide probiotics for six to eight weeks until she has regained her strength.

Even if probiotics aren’t part of your flock’s diet, always administer to a chicken recovering from any illness or injury unless directed otherwise by a qualified veterinarian.

probiotics-for chickens — Probiotics can also just be used during times of stress, such as molting, and after antibiotic treatment.
BOB/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

A Healthier You

Today, many backyard flock owners raise their chickens for enjoyment, but the chickens’ original purpose was to provide meat, eggs or both. Therefore, we want to ensure our meat and eggs are safe to consume by our family and customers. You may wonder how supplying your chickens with probiotics will equal a healthier you. The reason is that harmful bacteria and yeast in your chicken’s gut may lead to human salmonella or E. coli infection.

While the common myth believed by most flock owners is that salmonella comes from ingesting an egg that has come in contact with manure, most cases result from the egg yolk getting contaminated in the ovary. Even though many hens carrying salmonella appear healthy on the outside, their gut is still unhealthy. Therefore, experts suggest that all chickens, whether they appear healthy or not, should consume probiotics daily.

Chickens raised without probiotics are 99% more likely to spread salmonella or E. coli to humans through the consumption of their eggs or meat, then chickens raised on probiotics. With probiotics, you and your family can safely consume eggs and meat without worrying about disease, giving you the peace of mind of a healthy family and flock.

While feeding your chickens probiotics doesn’t mean they’ll never get sick, it does help to decrease their chances of becoming ill. So, if you want a healthy, long-lived flock that provides you with quality eggs and meat, consider supplementing their diet with probiotics.

This article about probiotics for chickens was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags probiotic, probiotics

Food Recipes

Pickled Egg Recipe: Discover Four Delicous Versions

Post author By Stephanie Thurow
Post date April 9, 2024
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pickled-egg-recpie — images by Stephanie Thurow

A delicious pickled egg recipe is sure to become a family favorite. They make great snacks straight from the jar, but it can be difficult to stop at just one. Sliced in half and placed on a charcuterie platter makes a creative and welcomed treat. Or pluck out the yolks and mash them with mayo, mustard and pickle relish and you’ll have some of the most unique deviled eggs you’ve ever tasted. Pickled eggs can even be added to bloody Mary skewers, alongside other homemade pickled goodies.

Pickled eggs can be dated back to 16th century England, originally used as a method of preserving eggs. They were popular in Germany in the mid-1700s. Since then, they’ve become a popular snack at pubs. Because pickled eggs are salty, they induce thirst, which makes people drink more. You can often find a jar of pickled eggs alongside a jar of pickled pigs feet at small-town bars in Minnesota and Wisconsin.

Below are four yummy pickled egg recipes. Ideally, you should let the eggs pickle for at least one week before eating. You can eat them at any point, but the longer you wait (one to two weeks), the better flavor they’ll have.

Oh Boil!

Before we get to pickling, we must hard boil the eggs. The fresher the egg is, the more difficult it will be to get the peel off smoothly. The reasoning behind this is that the membrane on the inside of the shell is firmly against the shell of fresh eggs. However, as the days pass, the egg shrinks and the space between the eggshell and membrane gets larger, which makes the eggs easier to peel.

It seems like everyone has their tried-and-true method for hard-boiling the perfect egg. My mom swears that adding a glug (technical term) of oil to the water before adding the eggs helps the skin slide right off when peeling. My aunt and grandma swear by steaming eggs. They both have small egg steamers that truly do cook the eggs perfectly, with shells that seem to practically fall off the hard-boiled egg, regardless of the freshness of the egg. However, when steaming, an extra step to pierce a small hole into the end of the egg before cooking is required.

The method that I stand by came printed on a refrigerator magnet I picked up at a conference 15 years ago from the American Egg Board. This is the method I’ve used to hard-boil eggs ever since, and I stand by it. However, I do tend to use my week-old (or older) eggs whenever possible.

Hard Boiling Instructions

Place the eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the eggs by at least 1 inch.
Bring eggs to a boil, and turn off the heat. Cover the pot, and remove it from the burner. Allow the eggs to stand in the hot water for 15 minutes; 12 minutes for medium eggs.
Drain the hot water from the eggs, and run cold water over the eggs. Soak in an ice bath for 15 minutes, or until eggs are completely cooled.
Peel eggs by cracking the shell and peeling from the large end. Hold the egg under running cold water or dip it in a bowl of water to ease off the shell.

Making pickled eggs allows you to experiment with ingredients. If you have a ratio of at least 1:1 vinegar to water (up to 100 percent vinegar), you can add whatever seasonings and herbs you desire.

You can even use different kinds of vinegar, if they’re safe for pickling, such as apple cider vinegar, malt vinegar or wine vinegar. It’s fun to experiment with new flavor combos! But remember to be sure and always start with a clean workspace, sterilized jars and clean lids.

1. Ye Olde English Style Pickled Egg Recipe

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients

5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger root, peeled
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 teaspoon whole allspice

Brine

1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 teaspoons canning salt

Preparation

Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients
to a clean pint jar.

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they are completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage.

Place the canning jar lid on the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting.

2. Mustard Pickled Egg Recipe

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients

5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1 teaspoon ground yellow mustard
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
3 whole cloves
2 tablespoons yellow onions, thinly sliced

brine

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon white granulated sugar
2 teaspoons canning salt

Preparation

Add the peeled hard-boiled eggs and the remaining ingredients to a clean pint jar. Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt and sugar is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the jar and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to pickle at least one week before tasting.

3. Spicy Pickled Egg Recipe

Yield: 1 pint

Ingredients

5 to 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
1 jalapeño pepper (or hotter pepper of choice), halved
1 garlic clove, chopped
2 sprigs fresh dill
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

brine

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
2 teaspoons canning salt

Preparation

Add the eggs and the rest of the ingredients to a clean pint jar.

Heat the brine ingredients to a simmer, and stir until the salt is dissolved.

Carefully pour the brine over the eggs until they’re completely submerged. Wipe the rim of the jar clean with a dampened cloth to remove any spillage. Place the canning jar lid on the rim of the jar, and tightly screw on the ring. Transfer to the refrigerator.

4. Quick Pickled Egg Recipe with Brine Leftovers

Each fall, I can 30 pints or more of sliced jalapeños (solely for my personal consumption). I love them and can’t get enough. I put jalapeño slices on nearly everything I eat.

Once a jar is almost empty, I use the brine to make a quick-pickled spicy egg. The leftover jalapeño brine lends the perfect flavor to the eggs. I simply add hard-boiled eggs to the empty jar, make sure the brine totally covers the eggs and allow them to pickle for a week or two. Store-bought pickled peppers work just as well.

This same method can be used with homemade pickled beet brine or store-bought too. After just a few days in the pink beet brine, the egg white turns a vibrant pink color. If they’re pickled long enough, even the yolks will turn pink. Beet-brine pickled eggs take on a strong beet flavor after pickling.

Pickled Egg Recipe Additional Tips

Be sure to thoroughly clean your space and supplies before pickling (as when doing any food preservation). Sterilize jars, and wash lids.

The longer the eggs pickle in the vinegar solution, the “rubberier” the texture of the egg white will become. Therefore, eat pickled eggs within three months for best texture.

Small or medium eggs are preferred for pickling, as they fit into the jar better. Pint jars fit five to six eggs while quart jars fit 10 to 12 eggs.

Use regular-mouth canning jars with shoulders (instead of wide-mouth jars) so that the shoulders help keep the eggs and other ingredients pushed down, underneath the brine.

This pickled egg recipe article originally appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags eggs, pickled eggs, preservation

Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

How to Make a Hotbed & Grow Sweet Corn Transplants

Post author By Samuel Feldman
Post date April 5, 2024
No Comments on How to Make a Hotbed & Grow Sweet Corn Transplants

How to make a hotbed is useful for growing vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. As a bonus learn how to grow sweet corn transplants.

What is a Hotbed?

A hotbed is basically a garden bed heated by decomposing organic material such as manure that allows year-round cultivation. A greenhouse or cold frame is used to trap the heat.

Various crops can be grown in hotbeds, such as vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and tropical plants. The technique is useful in extending the growing season, and after some practice, it could even be used to grow tropical plants (if you have a taste for horse-manure pineapples!).

How to Make a Hotbed

A hotbed could be made by building a box around three feet deep and four-to-six-feet-square. Bricks, lumber or straw could be used as building materials. If you don’t have any materials and don’t mind the work, you can make an even better hotbed by digging a pit with the same dimensions.

Obtain some manure, preferably horse manure containing around one-third of straw or other bedding. Place the manure in a pile, compact it and wait three to four days until it gets warm. Turn it over, compact it again and wait another three to four days. Now the manure should be ready to be placed in the hotbed.

Fill the hotbed with manure, and tamp it down so that the depth is one to two feet. Add six to eight inches of topsoil and a south-facing cold frame on top to keep in the heat. Don’t plant immediately as the hotbed will reach high temperatures for several days. You can safely plant when the temperature drops to 85°F or slightly lower.

Using & Maintaining a Hotbed

Maintaining the hotbed will require some skill in opening the frames in mild weather and covering them in very cold nights, but overall, you’ll be surprised at the usefulness of this natural greenhouse. The heat generated from decomposing horse manure could last for several weeks to a few months, depending on various factors, including the size of the bed and the quality of the manure.

Generally, a hotbed will be warm for six to eight weeks. A hotbed makes a wonderful bed for growing pumpkins or other nutrient-loving plants in the summer.

Transplanting Sweet Corn

Transplanting sweet corn is an old technique that is sometimes used even today. Because plants get established quickly, farmers get an earlier crop as well as effective weed control without herbicides. Gaps in the field from ungerminated seeds are avoided as well as weed competition which leads to a better crop.

The old-school directions for transplanting corn is to prepare a plot of land much like a garden in fall. Scatter the seeds and cover with some straw to prevent birds from eating them. The following spring, the land where the crop will eventually grow is plowed, and the small corn plants are transplanted. Though this requires a lot of effort, much time is saved from weeding and the resulting crop is earlier and better.

Modern growers use greenhouses and 98-cell trays with potting mix to sow corn seeds several weeks earlier than planting time. The trays are placed on tables so that the corn won’t root in the ground. After around 12 days at greenhouse temperatures of 65 degrees in the day and 60 at night, the transplants are hardened off for two to six days and planted in the prepared soil. The transplants could be also covered with a floating row cover for further protection and season extension. Try several varieties of corn beforehand because varieties can widely differ in vigor.

Though the process of transplanting corn could be costly, there are many benefits. Growers who transplant corn find that there is less weed trouble, an earlier harvest to attract customers and even a higher yield (mostly because of more plants per acre).

This article about how to make a hotbed and grow sweet corn transplants was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Tags corn, hotbeds