Categories
News

Farm Producer Grants Available

If you’ve researched and planned a farm project designed to add value to your farm venture, you may wish apply for a value-added producer grant to help fund your project.

The USDA is accepting applications for the 2008 Value Added Producer Grants.

Last year, 162 recipients from 42 states received $22.6 million to implement innovative projects. This list of past recipents gives you an idea of the range of projectS.

A total of $18.4 million is available to producers, producer groups and farmer cooperatives. Funds can be used for determining the viability of a potential value-added venture or for working capital. A maximum of $100,000 is available per planning grant, $300,000 is the maximum per working capital grant.

Application deadline is March 31, details about the 2008 Value Added Producer Grants are available from your local USDA Rural Development Office.

Grants for specialty crops in Indiana
Grants for FarmersA grant program for specialty crops has been announced by the Indiana State Department of Agriculture.

The grants, funded by the USDA’s Ag Marketing Service, range from $5,000 to $20,000 to qualifying projects.

Organizations eligible to apply for the grants include commissions, public entities, associations and/or nonprofit organizations that represent specialty crops, such as fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits and nursery crops.

The deadline to apply is March 7. Read More

Categories
News

USDA Opens CRP Land

By Stephanie Staton

The USDA authorized over 24 million acres of land for use as hay and forage

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) has authorized more than 24 million acres of land enrolled in the Conservation Reserved Program (CRP) for use as hay and forage.

Eligible Land
According to the USDA’s CRP Critical Feed Use Fact Sheet, eligible land meets the following criteria:

  • Land must be dedicated to one of the following CRP categories: CP1, CP2, CP4B, CP4D, CP10, CP18B or CP18C
  • Critical feed use cannot start until after the primary bird nesting or brood-rearing season and must end by Nov. 10, 2008. (Download a map of primary nesting season dates and durations.)
  • No more than 50 percent of the eligible CRP acreage can be used for hay.
  • Based on the Natural Resources Conservation Service’s (NRCS) recommended stocking rates, eligible land can be used for grazing at 75 percent stocking rate on 100 percent of the land or at 100 percent stocking rate on 75 percent of the land.

Land that is ineligible for haying and foraging includes:

  • Wetlands
  • Buffers
  • Filter strips
  • Useful life easements, as determined by the Commodity Credit Corporation (CCC)
  • Land within 120 feet of a stream or other permanent body of water

How to Participate
To participate, CRP enrollees place a request to the CCC to modify their CRP contracts for critical feed use. Enrollment opened June 2, 2008. The modification for feed use is only available in 2008 and ends on Nov. 10, 2008. CRP participants can use their land for feed use or lease the privilege to another individual.

In addition to the voluntary modification, enrollees in the program must obtain a modified conservation plan for haying and grazing management that meets the NRCS Field Office Technical Guide’s haying and grazing standards.

Fees for Participation
While the USDA is not imposing a payment reduction on contracts being used for critical feed use, participants are required to pay a $75 fee to modify their CRP contracts.

Cattlemen Concerns
The decision to waive a reduction in government payments for CRP contract holders—which it previously enforced in similar situations—has caused concern for some members of the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association. The Association is worried that the decision may inadvertently damage the hay market and put non-CRP landowners at a disadvantage, but concedes that it supports managed haying and grazing of CRP acreage.

For more information on the USDA’s conservation programs, visit www.fsa.usda.gov/FSA/webapp?area=home&subject=copr&topic=landing

About the Author: Stephanie Staton is managing editor for the Popular Farming Series and associate editor for Hobby Farms and Hobby Farm Home.

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Categories
Recipes

Oven Lamb Stew with New Potatoes and Herbs

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. lamb stew meat, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 2 T. butter
  • 3⁄4 cup onion, finely chopped
  • 1 T. garlic, minced
  • 2 tsp. fresh rosemary, minced
  • 1⁄2 cup flour
  • 1 1⁄2 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
  • 10 to 12 baby, new red potatoes no larger than 2 inches in diameter, scrubbed, but not peeled (or 6 to 8 B-sized red potatoes, cut into 11⁄2-inch chunks)
  • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 cup carrots, diced
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 cups beef or chicken stock
  • 1⁄2 cup dry red wine
  • 1 1⁄2 cups fresh or frozen green peas
  • 1⁄4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
  • 3 T. chives, minced

Preparation
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
In a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter. Add lamb stew meat and sauté until pieces begin to brown. Add onion, garlic and rosemary, and sauté for another 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat, drain any excess fat and allow to cool slightly.

Put flour, salt and pepper into a large, plastic food-storage bag and shake until combined. Add lamb mixture and shake until pieces are well-coated.

In a large (3-quart or larger), ovenproof casserole, combine lamb pieces, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots and bay leaves. Pour stock and red wine over lamb and vegetables. Cover and place in oven. Bake for 2.5 to 3 hours, stirring twice. Add peas and parsley, and cook an additional 45 minutes. Check potatoes for doneness; they should be very
tender. Add additional salt and pepper if needed, stir in chives, and serve hot. Serves 5 to 8.

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About 20 years ago, as a college freshman, I had to memorize the first 40 lines of Geoffrey Chaucer’s Prologue to the Canterbury Tales, Old English pronunciation and all.

I struggled at first, but practice brought out the words’ full flavor; invariably, a soft, spring day will bring to my mind those simple-but-stirring opening lines, sketching in vivid detail the sights, sounds and smells of springtime in the country.

Translated into modern English, the lines speak of “April’s sweet showers” that have “pierced the drought of March to the root,” of “Zephyrus [the west wind], who with his sweet breath / has inspired in every grove and forest / the tender branches” and of “small birds making melody.”

Soft, soaking rains, warm breezes, green growth and the songs of happy, busy birds: Isn’t that still, 600 years later, the essence of spring?

Spring is a delight for all our senses, including taste … and besides, all that fresh air and outside work gives us an extra appetite. Pair the Marinated Asparagus and Confetti Spread on a piece of your favorite bread for that first outdoor lunch in a sunny spot, and savor the Lamb Stew in the still-cool evenings. Then get to bed early—the sun is rising earlier every day! 

More Main Dishes

Categories
Animals

Recipes for Animal Treats

Recipes Animal Treats
How do you make your
favorite homemade animal snack?
 Email us your recipe today!

Give your favorite animal a special treat. Try one of these healthful recipe options.

Apple Cinnamon Dog Biscuits

Bird Bread

Bird Salad

Bull Cookies

Edible Farm Kitty Gardens

Goat Treats

Imbir’s Horse Treats

Martok’s Tasty Tidbits

Meat & Cheese Dog Biscuits

Oyster Cat Treat

Savory Dog Biscuits

Thanksgiving Mash Horse Treat

Tuna Cat Treat

Categories
Homesteading

Canning Fruits and Vegetables

How to safely can and preserve fruits and vegetables at homeIs it safe to eat canned fruits and vegetables? And is canning fruits and vegetables something worth learning to do? In a word: yes.

However, there is more to preserving safe, tasty, nutritious canned fruits, vegetables and meats than hauling out Grandma’s old pressure canner.

Here are the facts about canning instructions and methods.

Because modern hybrid vegetable and fruit varieties are often less acidic than heirloom varieties and modern canned goods are generally stored under vastly different conditions than they were just decades ago, in 1989 our U.S. Department of Agriculture updated its home canning guidelines and declared certain old-fashioned canning methods verboten.

Extension Services in every state reprinted canning instruction manuals to reflect the USDA’s findings. In 1994 it released its own definitive work, Complete Guide to Home Canning.

Unfortunately, many home canners aren’t aware of these safety updates and still follow instructions from old books and bulletins. Others contend “the old ways are best.”

Hobby FarmsBetween October 24, 2000, and January 10, 2001, the Center for Home Food Preservation in conjunction with the University of Georgia called 5,259 randomly selected households across the United States; 1,244 households reported freezing or home canning in 1999.

The Center polled 501 of these home-canning households with these startling results:

  • Only 19 percent followed canning instructions gleaned from cookbooks and County Extension bulletins (and some of these were badly outdated); 48 percent obtained instructions solely from friends or relatives.

To preserve high-acid products such as fruits, pickles and tomatoes, the USDA recommends water bath or pressure-canning methods.

Old-style, open-kettle canning as well as oven and microwave procedures are deemed unsafe.

Yet, 21 percent chose the open-kettle method and four percent canned in ovens. Only 58 percent of the home canners polled used the water-bath method and 15.5 percent used a pressure canner.

Furthermore, when canning low-acid foods like vegetables, poultry, seafood, meats and combinations such as stews and salsa, processing in a pressure canner is the only way to safely kill botulism spores.

Still, only 30 percent of the canners polled always used a pressure canner; 39 percent used water-bath canners, 29 percent used pressure cookers, 15 percent used the open-kettle method and three percent used the oven. Obviously, things need to change.

Safety and Benefits
Be sure to follow canning instructions exactly for your and others safety. A safely canned food yields numerous benefits.

Safety
Clostridium botulinum, the deadly neurotoxin that causes botulism, thrives in under-processed, low-acid, home-canned goods.

A single nibble or sip of botulism-laced food, ingested as soon as three or four days after processing, can prove fatal. Why take that risk? C. botulinum and the other bacteria that contribute to spoilage are easily destroyed when cooked for the right amount of time at 240 to 250 degrees F—the temperature in a properly-regulated pressure canner.

Benefits
Canned foods are often more wholesome than weeks-old “fresh” produce at the market.

Even refrigerated, the nutrient content of fruits and vegetables begins declining at harvest. Within a week, up to 50 percent of certain vitamins may be lost. However, although heat destroys one-third to one-half of Vitamins A and C, riboflavin and thiamin, once these items are canned, the process slows to five to 20 percent per year.

Canning is economical. The same equipment—including canning jars—can be used year after year. Only lids must be purchased new each canning season.

Canning lets you savor favorite foods all year, including out-of-season and homegrown, organic goodies. It’s convenient—precook and can dried beans for chili recipes or chicken to simmer with those dumplings.

It beats freezing: stored canned goods don’t spoil when the power goes off. Most frozen foods claim a one-year life expectancy. But with only slight decline in looks and flavor, canned items can last for two to three years or more.

What You Need to Get Started
If you’re convinced and want to try canning this year, here’s what you’ll need to get started:

  • Reliable canning instructions and recipes
    Check the copyright date on material you may already have on hand. If it’s dated before 1989, it’s best to discard it. Take heirloom and other favorite recipes to your County Extension for updating or compare them to modern recipes and based on those, add significantly to their processing times.

Reliable canning instruction and recipes are free and abundant. Pick up bulletins from your County Extension agent or download them from the Internet. Phone or e-mail canning-supply companies such as the Alltrista Corporation (makers of Ball and Kerr canning jars and lids), and ask for free brochures. Many offer inexpensive materials like Alltrista’s 120-page classic, The Ball Blue Book: Guide to Home Canning, Freezing & Dehydration; 32nd Edition, available directly from Alltrista (see “Resources” on page 90). If in doubt, pressure canning (according to modern USDA recommendations) is always your safest ploy.

  • Wholesome, properly handled food
    When possible, grow or pick your own fruits and vegetables. For optimal flavor, nutrition and appearance, can them within six to 12 hours of harvest. Choose fully ripe (but not over-ripe), bruise- and blemish-free produce.

Harvest, pick or buy only the amount you can process in two to three hours. Rinse and lightly scrub fruit and veggies but don’t soak them prior to canning.

  • Canner
    If you put up vegetables, including low-acid tomatoes, poultry, meat, seafood or processed entrees such as chili or stew, you’ll need a pressure canner. Grandma’s pressure canner, if she had one, was a heavy, bulky monster with thick walls and a cumbersome clamp-on lid. Redesigned in the 1970s, today’s models are sleek, thin-walled and lightweight, featuring replaceable gaskets, twist-on lids with automatic cover locks, one or more safety valves and dial or weighted pressure gauges.

Pressure canners range in size and price from Mirro, Presto and Maitre’s petite 4.2 models (they handle three-quart jars and list for around $45 but often sell for much less) to the enormous All-American 941 (19 quarts or 32 pints and close to $350), although the average pressure canner holds seven quarts or eight to nine pint jars in a single layer or 18 pints in two and retails for $100 to $150.

Used canners purchased at yard sales or on the Internet may or may not be bargains. Before buying one, make certain all parts are present and functioning. You can pick up replacement gaskets, dial gauges, counterweights and safety valves for modern canners at most hardware stores or order them from manufacturers and canning supply outlets, but parts for antiquated canners are all but extinct.

Dial-gauge models, like those built by Presto and All-American, accurately measure the appliance’s internal pressure and are preferred by many home canners. One drawback: gauges must be checked for accuracy before every canning season and again if dropped or mishandled.

Weighted-gauge canners, manufactured by Mirro and Maitre, feature a steam vent or petcock closed by a weight that jiggles and hisses two or three times per minute while the canner is suitably pressurized. Both incorporate rubber or rubber-like lid gaskets to form a tight seal. The gaskets in modern canners are permanently pre-lubed at the factory but those in older models should be periodically slathered with vegetable oil. Nicked, gummy, stretched or dried gaskets don’t properly seal, causing steam leaks and under-processed canned goods. Replace them.

Never force-cool any pressure canner. Cool down is factored into processing time. Dousing any canner with running water causes lid-seal failures and liquid loss from jars. Older models’ lids can warp, resulting in unfixable steam leaks.

Because water boils at lower temperatures as altitude increases, and canning instructions are generally calculated for elevations below 1,000 feet above sea level, unless their gauges are adjusted, temperatures inside pressure canners used at higher elevations will be incorrect. Unsure if you’re affected? Ask your nearest County Extension agent for assistance. Don’t omit this step.

While you can put up fruit, high-acid or acidified tomatoes, relishes, pickles, jams and jellies in a pressure canner with the lid clamped in place and the exhaust valve (petcock) open, the same foods can be processed faster in a water-bath canner. You may want to buy both kinds.

Water-bath canners, sometimes called boiling-water canners, are deep, porcelain-covered steel or aluminum pots fitted with snug-fitting lids and removable canning racks. They cost $10 to $30 at hardware stores or the large discount chain stores. With canning racks removed, they can be used to fix hefty batches of food for group feeds or for freezing. In water-bath canning, packed jars are immersed in at least one inch of boiling water for an allotted time—nothing could be simpler!

  • Canning jars
    Buy them new, packed one dozen per package, at grocery stores, hardware stores and the like, in 1¼2 pint, pint, 1 1¼2 pint, quart and 1¼2-gallon sizes, and in standard and wide-mouth configurations. Most popular are pints and quarts, with canners designed to contain these sizes. Wide-mouth jars, measuring three inches across, are easier to fill, empty and wash than their standard (2 3¼8”) mouth cousins.Jars are safe to reuse if they’re designed for use with modern, flat canning lids and screw-on rings. Scaly, film-covered jars are salvageable. Soak them for two to three hours in one cup of five percent acidity vinegar to one gallon of water solution, then hand or machine wash as usual. When considering a box of used canning jars, glaze your forefinger around their rims, checking for chips, nicks and the sort of uneven surface that will prevent your canning lids sealing. With use, jars do weaken and crack. New ones are often a better buy.

Don’t buy or save commercial mayonnaise containers to use as canning jars. They’re neither heat-tempered nor sturdy enough to withstand home canning, especially more than once. A mayonnaise jar’s narrower rim surface makes seal failure likely and it could shatter during processing or even explode when the canner is opened. If you must use recycled food containers, use them only for water-bath canning, never inside a pressure canner.

  • Canning lids
    Not so many years ago, canning jars were sealed with porcelain-lined, zinc screw-on lids with separate “jar rubber” gaskets. Antique jars are still around but finding new rubber gaskets is iffy and the USDA no longer endorses their use. The same goes for old-fashioned jars with wire-bail-attached glass lids and jar rubber seals.

The only safe canning topper is today’s self-sealing, two-piece vacuum lid. Its flat metal lid has a strip of rubbery gasket compound molded to its crimped underside. Heated, the compound softens and semi-seals while still allowing air to escape from the jar. This seal becomes airtight as the finished product cools and a vacuum forms.

During processing, the lid is clamped in place by a metal screw-on band or ring, which is removed after the finished product cools. Lid flats must never be reused but screw bands, if properly handled, will last indefinitely. Lids are sold as two-piece units or flats only.

Canning lids boast a five-year shelf life, although with age, more seal failures occur. It’s best to buy just enough for a single canning season. Over 30 companies manufacture these lids and not all work precisely the same. Always read and follow manufacturer’s instructions when prepping canning lids for use.

  • Accessories
    While most of the essentials you’ll need for processing food are standard kitchen tools, a few items are specific to canning.

Spooning food into canning jars is a lesson in frustration; wide-mouth plastic funnels make filling canning jars a breeze.

You’ll need a jar lifter—a specially-shaped set of tongs with rubber-coated handles—for fishing blistering hot jars out of your canner.

For cold-packing fruit, a small-bladed plastic or rubber spatula will coax bubbles out of jars before processing. Some instructions recommend a knife but metal causes certain fruits to turn odd hues.

To prevent breakage, you shouldn’t pack cool jars with
warm food. Bring them to a simmer in a kettle of water and hold them there till you’re ready to fill them. Use a large kettle that will hold all the jars for one batch. A water-bath canner is ideal.

An accurate kitchen timer is a must, as are measuring cups and spoons. Canning is an exacting science. Time and volume measurements must be precise.

Saucepans for warming lids; colanders for draining product; knives and cutting boards for peeling and chopping; pot holders or mitts to protect your hands; a big spoon for stirring and towels to cool your canned goods upon.

Home canning is a safe, economical way to put delicious, nutritious food on your table at every meal. Blackberry jam for breakfast, tasty home-canned chili for lunch, green beans from your garden, peaches from your trees—delicious! Give canning a try. Here are some more resources.

When that first batch of jewel-like jars stands cooling on your countertop, you’ll be thrilled you did.

This article first appeared in the Fall 2002 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Pick up a copy at your local newsstand or tack and feed store.

Categories
Animals

Emus on the Farm

By Moira K. Wiley

When it comes to livestock, a person typically thinks of cattle, horses, sheep and other such animals, but there’s a whole market for alternative livestock available to small farmers interested in discovering a new niche.

One such animal that has made a stir over the years is the odd looking bird from Down Under, the emu.

Beginning in the 1930s, the emu was brought to the United States as an exotic zoo animal, but later found a home in the barnyards of producers across the country.

Breed Bender
The emu is a most unusual bird. It has wings, but can’t fly. It’s considered a big chicken, but the meat resembles and tastes like beef. The males grunt like a pig and both genders love to roll around in the mud. They have been known to pant like a dog and hiss like a cat. The animal can’t seem to decide which species it is, but its uniqueness is definite.

New laws governing the ratite industry, such as mandatory USDA inspection, have increased the validity of the industry.

Although they are considered a long-term investment, emus don’t require the large areas of land associated with many other types of livestock and due to the variety of marketable products, both small and large farms can successfully raise these big birds that found their way from the Outback to America.

Emu breeding took off in the United States in the late 1980s and became one of the fastest growing segments of alternative agriculture. Emus are no longer such an odd sight as the industry slowly builds consumer awareness mostly in two areas—as a low-fat red meat alternative and a cosmetic “wonder” oil.

Breed Characteristics
Originating from Australia, emus are the second largest member of the ratite family of flightless birds, which also includes the ostrich, rhea, kiwi and cassowary.

Emus have tiny wings and three toes. When born, they have soft, black-and-white striped feathers. As the birds mature into adulthood, feathers in various combinations of brown, black and tan replace the downy, striped chick feathers. A mature emu can reach five to six feet in height and weigh between 90 and 150 pounds.

The birds can begin laying eggs as early as 16 to 18 months of age, but normally laying begins at two to three years. Hens typically lay between 20 and 50 large, green eggs in a season spanning from October to April and can be productive for more than 20 years.

Emus tend to be curious and usually docile and non-aggressive toward people, especially if handled from birth. They can make very unique pets, as well as easy-to-handle livestock. However, watch anything shiny—like jewelry or painted toenails—since they enjoy pecking at such things. Though their pecking may be more playful than painful, their sharp, claw-like toenails can pose a safety threat to humans. Even the tamest emu can inadvertently injure an inexperienced handler if it feels cornered or gets agitated.

Raising a Flock
New producers might consider purchasing eggs to hatch and raise. While this is a less costly route than buying mature stock, it represents the greatest risk of mortality and will require sufficient time before the birds are productive and of marketable age.

Another option is to purchase chicks, which increases the cost, but lowers the risk of mortality, especially if purchased at three months of age or older; chicks six to 10 months old sell for $400 to $850 each, three- to six-months old sell for $300 to $375 each.
 

Raising Emus

Basic operation requirements:

  • Research first by visiting other farms and reading industry-related magazines and books.
  • Land requirements are between ¼ to ½ an acre per breeding pair.
  • Separate pens are required for breeding and raising chicks.
  • Fencing should be chain-link, woven-wire or no-climb mesh, however large wire mesh should be avoided and all pens should be five to six feet in height.
  • Emu are fence walkers, so all posts and wire fasteners should be kept on the outside of pens to reduce the potential for injury.
  • Emu require shelters with adequate space, ventilation, heat to escape extreme cold and shade in the summer.
  • Incubating and hatching facilities should be designed to ensure a clean environment with consistent temperature, humidity and air exchange.

By purchasing yearlings, start-up costs are increased even further, but the birds will be productive within two years; yearlings sell for $500 to $1,200 each. Those who want to begin production as quickly as possible should purchase proven breeding stock, however, this is the highest cost option; breeder pairs sell for $2,000 to $5,000.

Before bringing home new stock, suitable accommodations should be established. If eggs are purchased, incubation and hatching equipment must already be in place. With older chicks, yearlings and mature birds, these items can be purchased later to decrease initial costs.

Chicks can be reared in a variety of confinements, but minimum requirements include a warm shelter that is sanitary and well ventilated. Also, access to an outside pen must be available for exercise to ensure overall health and prevent rotated legs. (Overcrowding is the single largest cause of death in chicks.) Chick pens should be restricted to 25 birds per pen with a widespread heat source so that they don’t have to huddle to keep warm, which can cause suffocation.

Yearlings and breeding pairs will require an outdoor facility with appropriate fencing and shelters. A basic operation includes separate pens for breeding pairs and for growing chicks. Chicks are usually separated in pens based on size, not age. Shelters with adequate space, ventilation and heat should be provided, so birds can escape extreme winter weather and seek shade in the summer.

Although they can’t fly, emus can jump fairly high and they like to get into fence corners, hook their toes and roll over the top. Their jumping ability and fence walking requires fences to be built between five and six feet in height with all posts and fasteners attached on the outside of the pens.

Industry standards indicate that two-inch by four-inch woven-wire or chain-link fencing is the best type of material to contain emus. Many established producers use these materials or no-climb horse fencing. It’s never advisable to use chicken wire, as it is too easy for emus to get their feet tangled if they try to hook a foot and jump over.

Once breeding pairs reach laying age, producers should be on the lookout for those large, green eggs that many birds tend to leave lying around wherever they may land. By providing a nest either inside a shelter or in a shaded area, you can encourage females to lay their eggs in a specific spot, but this does not always work.

When collecting eggs, producers may have to deal with the males, who are the nest sitters in the couple. Once a male finds a clutch of eggs to hatch, he will not generally move from that spot, even to eat or drink.

Some producers opt to let the males hatch eggs, but chicks hatched in the “wild” may not be as tame as those hatched by the farmer. Plus, removing the eggs from the hens will stimulate continued egg laying, so it’s best to try to retrieve eggs as they are laid.

Freshly collected eggs should be cleaned, placed in an incubator and turned on a regular schedule. Incubators are used to regulate temperature and humidity and provide good air circulation. Suggested optimal temperatures are between 96.5 to 97.5 degrees F with humidity ranging from 24 to 40 percent, depending on the equipment used and local environment.

The incubation period is usually 46 to 56 days, however the eggs are moved to a hatcher three to five days before they are expected to hatch.

Hatchers are used to maintain temperature and humidity at constant levels after a slight lowering of the temperature by one or two degrees and an increase of five to 10 percent in humidity.

Once chicks have hatched, they are given 24 hours to dry in the hatcher before being moved to a brooder box. (There are several incubators and hatchers available and you should research each type to learn which ones will best fit your needs.)

Resources:

American Emu Association
P.O. Box 740814
Dallas, TX 75374-0814
(541) 332-0675
Fax (928) 962-9430
Email: info@aea-emu.org
www.aea-emu.org

Emu Ranchers Inc.
308 S. 1st St.
Conroe, TX 77301
(936) 788-5516

Magazines

Emu Today & Tomorrow
P.O. Box 7
Nardin, OK 74646-0007
(580) 628-2933
Fax (580) 628-2011
Email: emutoday@aol.com
www.emutoday.com

Emu’s Zine (Online)
Myra Charleston, Editor
3040 Big Buck Road
Trezevant, TN 38258
www.emuszine.com

Books

Manual on Emu Farming, 1989, by Phillip & Marie Minnaar (available on www.amazon.com)

Emu Farmer’s Handbook Volume 2: Commercial Farming Methods for Emus, Ostriches and Rheas, 1998, by Phillip & Marie Minnaar (available on Amazon)

Guide to Hatching and Raising Emus Economically, by Janice Castleberry (available from the author at Janice@triplecranchinc.com)

When it comes time to feed the growing chicks, you may want to utilize the expertise of feed companies or established producers to find the correct ratite feed. An important factor when choosing chick feed is to find one designed to achieve even growth without rapid weight gain, which can cause leg problems. Generally, chicks are fed a starter ration for three months then fed a grower ration until they reach market age. Breeding stock is usually kept on a breeding ration for six months of the year, and a maintenance ration for the other six months.

With regard to disease and health management, keep in mind that emus have a tendency to hide illness, and stress is one of the biggest threats in all stages of the bird’s life. Chicks are most vulnerable to diseases and mortality from hatching until about three months of age. Sick chicks are frequently trampled or picked on by healthy chicks, so separation is usually a good choice.

Besides stress, birds of all ages are susceptible to a number of ailments including stomach impaction, diarrhea, hardware disease, crooked neck and a number of common livestock diseases such as Eastern and Western Equine Encephalitis and Avian Influenza. Seeking medical advice from a veterinarian experienced in caring for emus is the best course of action.

Striking Oil
Considered the most valuable commodity, emu oil comes from a thick pad on the back of the bird—a natural protection against the extreme temperatures of its homeland. The oil has been used by Aborigines who relied on the “healing bird” to treat wounds, burns and skin ailments for thousands of years. Through testing and marketing, the oil now has diverse applications in cosmetics, soaps, lotions, shampoos and analgesics.

Ongoing studies at a number of university and medical laboratories around the country have shown emu oil to display anti-inflammatory properties and aid in carrying medications through the skin more quickly.

By discovering all the potential elements in the oil, these scientists’ findings may help further increase the demand for this commodity. Already, emu oil is proving to be a wonder for many health and beauty p roducts that have found their way into health- and natural-food stores, on the Internet and in direct-mail marketing campaigns.

The Other Red Meat
Emus are unique in that they provide red meat when traditional farmyard birds, such as chickens and turkeys, provide white and dark meat choices, but definitely not red.

Considered the second most valuable emu commodity, several studies have indicated that emu meat is higher in protein, has fewer calories and less sodium than most other red meat providing producers with a good marketing campaign. These studies include a two-year study by the University of Wisconsin-Madison that confirmed emu meat was lower in fat and higher in protein and other nutrients when compared with other popular alternatives such as bison, venison, elk and ostrich. Additional comparisons also found emu meat lower in fat than chicken, turkey, pork and beef.

Although it’s classified as poultry, emu is similar in taste and texture to lean beef. However, the fat and cholesterol content of emu meat is comparable to poultry, and as a result, the American Heart Association recognizes emu meat as a healthy alternative.

Following the American Heart Association’s lead, some hospital dieticians recommend emu meat to heart patients who don’t want to give up red meat in their diets. The meat is additive free (check packaging to be sure), and its nutritional profile has been featured by the American Dietetic Association. These endorsements have helped emu meat gain popularity among health-conscious Americans.

Like any new product, emu meat has met with a lot of skepticism and hasn’t quite made it all the way to the common American table. However, producers trying to market their meat may not have to look any further than local health-food stores, grocery stores or gourmet restaurants. Value-added products like emu jerky and sausages have also become saleable items and lower end, tough cuts and trim can be sold for high-quality pet food.

About the Author
Moira K. Wiley lives in Stillwater, Okla., where she works as a freelance writer and editor. She is president of the Oklahoma Writers’ Federation.

This article first appeared in the December/January 2003 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Pick up a copy at your local newsstand or tack and feed store. Click Here to subscribe to HF.

Categories
Animals

Make Mine Mules

Do you love to compete in equine competitions?

Then consider this: Mules can be shown at standard horse shows and dressage and driving events, but they’re also eligible to compete at hundreds of donkey and mule specialty shows staged in North America every year.

Mule shows include classes as diverse as:

  • commonplace pleasure and
  • speed events

Or as esoteric as:

  • Coon jumping (mules jump a tall hurdle from a dead standstill)
  • Snigging (ground-driven mules weave through pylons while dragging a log)
  • Mule pulling contests (teams of brawny draft mules drag a heavily loaded sledge a prescribed number of feet)

Surefooted, steady mules also excel at trail riding, be it for pleasure or in sanctioned competitive and endurance events.

The one thing mules don’t normally do: Reproduce.

This is because they are hybrids sired by jacks (male donkeys), while their mamas are mares (female horses).

Make Mine Mules

                       Courtesy Mattrick Family
Snowy, a donkey jack or a mule’s father, makes friends with young Graham. Snowy shares the Mattrick Family’s small New Hampshire farm with a flock of Shetland sheep, a dozen chickens and other critters.

Mule Factoids

  • Although Judaic law prohibits the breeding of mules, the ancient Hebrews bought and used them extensively. Mules are frequently referred to in the Old Testament of the Bible, particularly as the mounts of nobles and kings.
  • Many ancient authors including Homer, Xenophon, Columella, Aristotle and Pliny the Elder rhapsodized about mules in their writings.
  • Mule races were part of the Olympic Games around
    500 B.C.
  • Our first President, George Washington, is the father of the American mule. He so admired mules that imported two fine jacks, Royal Gift and Knight of Malta, to sire mules for his estate at Mount Vernon.
  • Between the Civil War and World War II, Army mules were an integral part of America’s military forces.
  • In 1922 the American mule population peaked at 5,918,000 head; in the 1960’s it dipped to a record low of about 10,000. Top

When a stallion (male horse) breeds a jenny (female donkey) their offspring is known as a hinny. Hinnies are rare but just as satisfying to ride or drive as mules.

To see what a mule can do: Visit the website of mule extraordinaire: John Henry (https://john.henry.org). We think you’ll be surprised!

Now, let’s learn more about mules.

Top

Mule Shapes & Sizes
Mules come in innumerable shapes and sizes, so there’s a mule just right for you. There are:

  • Wee miniature mules (the offspring of miniature donkey jacks and miniature horse mares)
  • Burly draft mules as much as 18 hands tall
  • Half Thoroughbred or Quarter Horse racing mules
  • And even easy-gaited mules that never jar your bones when you ride them.

And mules come in every color of the equine clan.

A Mule for Your Hobby Farm
Because mules are so versatile, a good mule may be your ideal hobby farm equine. But don’t rush out to buy a mule before doing your homework.

Get to Know Mules Before You Buy
Mules are unusually intelligent members of the equine clan.

Because they are so smart and they quickly learn the bad along with the good, mules are like the little girl with the little curl: Most are very, very good but a few are horrid.

Meet some mules before you buy one.

  • Join a donkey and mule club (the American Donkey and Mule Society will send you a list of organizations in your locale)
  • View training videos or read a book
  • Attend mule shows or a mule day celebration
  • Subscribe to one or more of the friendly mule-oriented email lists at YahooGroups
  • Ask questions (lots of questions) and
  • Understand mule psychology before you buy one.

Mule psychology? Yes indeed. Mules don’t perceive the world through a horse’s eyes. For a peek into the mule’s mind, visit the Every Cowgirl’s Dream and Lucky Three Ranch.

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Buy From a Reputable Mule Breeder
When you’re ready for a mule buy a good one. Problem mules frequently find their way to sales barns and traders’ yards–avoid them. Instead, investigate mules offered by reputable mule breeders and trainers.

More on Mules

American Donkey and Mule Society
American Gaited Mule Association
American Miniature Mule Society

YahooGroups on Mules

Mules Only

https://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/MulesOnly/
Atlantic Coast Mule Lovers
https://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/ACML/
Donkey Mule Info
https://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/DonkeyMuleInfo/
Longears
https://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Longears/

Arrange to visit the mules you like in person and if you aren’t equine-savvy, take along a friend who is.

Ride the mules before you commit and if the mule you choose is guaranteed, be sure to get it in writing.

Mule Care Tips
Once you’ve chosen your perfect mule you’ve purchased a friend for life.

Mules are long-lived and tend to stay sound well into old age.

Upkeep is much the same as for horses although mules are often easier keepers that require lower-protein feed than comparable-size horses.

Mules are wise; they rarely rush around and injure themselves in the manner of flighty horses.

However, when veterinary intervention is required there are a few basic differences between horses and mules.

Read about them in “Donkey and Mule Scenarios; When to Stop, Think, Read or Call”, downloadable for free.

Think mules. Once you’ve tried one, we think you’ll be hooked. Make your next hobby farm equine a mule!

Categories
Recipes

Mixed Berry Coffeecake

Mixed Berry Coffee CakeSummer fruits let us eat like royalty. At the height of summer, it seems that everywhere a farm cook looks, there’s an abundance of delicious fruit. Melons ripening on the vine, sun-warmed berries scenting the air, stone fruits glowing like jewels amid glossy green leaves: What can compare to this kind of treasure?

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups fresh berries, such as blueberries, raspberries and/or blackberries
2 tsp. lemon juice
3/4 cup sugar
2 T. cornstarch
1 1/2 cups flour
½ tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp. baking soda
4 T. butter
1 egg, beaten
½ cup buttermilk
1 tsp. vanilla

Topping
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup flour
2 T. butter

Preparation
In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, bring berries, lemon juice and ¼ cup water to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer 3 to 4 minutes.

Stir together cornstarch and 1/4 cup of sugar, being sure to break up lumps in the cornstarch. Stir into fruit mixture.

Increasing heat slightly, cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Cook and stir two minutes more. Set aside.

In a mixing bowl, stir together remaining ½ cup sugar, flour, baking powder and soda. Cut in butter until mixture resembles fine crumbs. In a separate bowl, stir together egg, buttermilk and vanilla. Add to flour mixture and stir just until moistened.

Spread half of the batter in an 8- by 8-inch baking pan. Spread fruit mixture over batter. Drop remaining batter in small mounds on top of the filling.

For the topping, stir together flour and sugar. Cut in butter to form crumbly mixture. Sprinkle over batter. Bake at 350 degrees F for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm.

Categories
Equipment

Farm Tough: A Truck for Your Farm

by Daniel Broussard

1931 AA Ford Flatbed
A little history: Two Generations of Tough

Citrus farming runs in Bill Graham’s family. Bill is a third-generation grower.

The 1931 Ford flatbed, ton-and-a-half truck that he now keeps in his hay shed, has worked the family orchards for two generations.
 
Bill’s father, who was born in 1889, started with 11 acres of oranges and lemons and in 1931 bought the new ton-and-a-half flatbed truck from the local Ford dealer in Whittier, Calif.

Some of Bill’s earliest memories are of the truck out in the orchards.

“The truck was four years old when I was born—it was always around,” he says.

Bill’s father used the truck strictly as a work truck, “to haul lemons and fertilizer, and water to the young trees; we had a tank we could put on it—it did every farm operation.”

By eight years of age Bill had learned to drive the truck, and by 10 he was working in the orchards.

“Dad would say, ‘down where the young trees are, take the truck out and get them water.’”

Later, and just like teenagers today, Bill would find any reason to get behind the wheel.
 
“Just as an excuse to drive the truck I would go down and get 500 gallons of water to irrigate the garden,” he says. 

During the growing season the truck worked from dawn to well after dark, hauling picked oranges and lemons all day and in the evenings carrying oil out to the heaters, which would protect the fruit from frost.

With just a 40-hp, four-cylinder engine the truck would haul 108 crates of citrus, often weighing up to two tons (trips to the local packing shed were not speedy).

When he was just 21, Bill purchased 12 acres of lemons.

Starting out, he used the ’31 Ford model A, since his father had begun using some of the newer, more powerful trucks.

The ’31 Ford was “the first truck I used to haul my lemons to the packing shed … later I got a ’36 Dodge, which could carry 162 crates, so every two loads I would have had [to make] three loads … with the model A,” he says.

Bill used the Dodge to haul his crop to the packing sheds and kept the ’31 Ford to be used mostly to carry oil for the heaters in his orchards as well as perform many odd jobs around the ranch.

He was still using the Ford into the mid-70s when he sold his Southern California orchards and bought 40 acres of pears and hay near Placerville, in Northern California.

While the truck is still in running condition today, it has been a while since it has seen regular working duty.

Standard maintenance, a recent valve job on the original engine, and a couple of paint jobs over the years have been all the truck has required to keep it in great shape.

Although there are several old and worn out trucks sitting in Bill’s back field, the 1931 Ford that has worked so hard for the Graham family over the years is parked under the roof of the hay shed. In memory of his father, the truck now carries the license plate “Dads AA.”

In every city and on every street in America the sport utility vehicle (SUV) is as ubiquitous as Starbucks.

Today’s SUVs are just the latest manifestation of America’s love affair with the ultimate utilitarian vehicle—the pickup truck. From the early 1900s to today, if you own a farm or ranch—large or small—odds are you own a truck.

A TRUCK IS BORN
In 1925, Henry Ford introduced the model T runabout with a pickup body, and ever since trucks have been irreplaceable in the American workplace.

Ford was not the inventor of the truck; several other manufacturers and individual owners were modifying and customizing everything from cars to tractors to make a utility vehicle to fit their needs.

Ford did, however, make the truck available to a mass market. In its first year, Ford sold 34,000 trucks at around $280 each. In the years that followed, many manufacturers began producing trucks. Ford remained the most prolific producer, but GMC, Chevy and Dodge made great strides in pickup truck sales as well.

Smaller producers like Studebaker, Willys, Jeep, International and Mac also made pickups. Most of the smaller manufacturers either disappeared altogether (like Studebaker), stopped making trucks or moved on to manufacturing large heavy duty vehicles (like International and Mac).

As pickup trucks became more and more important to the everyday workings of big and small businesses, the manufacturers worked to create even more useful vehicles.

The 1925 Ford model T had a 20-hp, four-cylinder engine. Just three years later the 1928 Ford model A had a 40-hp, four-cylinder engine.

By 1929, Chevrolet was making an in-line, six-cylinder motor. Ford, not to be outdone, introduced a V-8, 65-hp engine that was the first mass-produced eight-cylinder engine.

Over the next two decades pickup manufacturers battled for market share, creating trucks that were more powerful and could carry larger payloads.
 
In the late 1950s, truck manufacturers began to take a harder look at the styling of their trucks. Pickups began to move away from the “classic” rounded front and rear fenders to a more modern, flat-fender look. By the late 1960s, trucks had taken on many of the styling queues that we continue to see today.

In the 1970s truck popularity declined due to new pollution standards that lowered the fuel efficiency of the standard, big V-8 engines.

By the late 1980s and early 1990s trucks began to make a comeback.

Manufacturers found ways to make truck engines even more powerful with better fuel efficiency. They began to create trucks with the everyday creature comforts regularly included in passenger cars. Air conditioning, comfortable seats and stereo systems became standard features.

Sales soared and in 1997 reached 7.2 million or 47 percent of all passenger vehicles sold. The Ford F150 pickup is not just the best selling truck, it is the best-selling passenger vehicle in the world.

SELECTING A FARM TRUCK
In recent years truck makers have begun to modify the truck to meet the needs of more and varied users, while still offering plenty of options for farm and ranch operators.

Deciding which truck to buy for your small farm or ranch is now more of a daunting project than in years past when the most difficult decisions were Ford, Chevy, GM or Dodge in white, red, black or blue.

In addition to the standard-cab, short-bed truck, every manufacturer now offers an extended-cab version with extra seating for kids and adults. Many now offer full crew cabs with full-size rear doors and backseats. In addition to expanded offerings in the light-duty line, all current truck lines have several offerings in the medium- and heavy-duty lines.

When deciding which truck to buy, your first step should be to take a realistic look at what you need.

  • What are the most common jobs you will need to do, and what do you need to accomplish those tasks?
  • How many people need to ride in your truck on a regular basis?
  • Do you tow a trailer and if so, what is the heaviest trailer weight you expect to pull?
  • Do you need an eight-foot-bed or can you get away with six feet?
  • Will your truck strictly be a working vehicle or will it also do double duty as everyday family transportation?

Defining your needs will go a long way to helping you decide which truck is right for you. It will also help you to keep focused on your true needs when faced with the lust for power, polish and that new-car smell.

Once you have decided on what you truly need, you can start looking for a truck to fill those needs.

Before going to a dealer try to research each manufacturer’s offerings on the Internet. All the truck makers have extensive websites with a vast array of information. You can get a good idea of what models, options and prices are available right from your home so you will be armed with this information before you head to the dealer. 

Try to drive all of the candidate vehicles more than once—a second look will often confirm your first impressions, good or bad, and make your buying decision easier. With current super low (often zero percent if you can qualify) interest rates and incentives, as well as the end-of-the-year push to sell vehicles on the lot, this winter may provide some of the best opportunities to get the perfect new truck for your farm or ranch.

About the Author: Daniel Broussard is a freelance writer and photographer based in Camino, Calif.


This article first appeared in the December/January 2003 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Pick up a copy at your local newsstand or tack and feed store. Click Here to subscribe to HF.

 

Categories
News

Learning About the Farm Bill

Carol Ekarius - Hobby Farms Contributing Editor - and Theresa

© Ken Woodard

Theresa doesn’t want a radio frequency ID implanted; neither do any of the other chickens or animals that live on my farm. And I don’t want to have to do that to all my animals. So I stay involved in farm policy issues and the farm bill debate to make sure my voice is heard by my elected officials!  ~ Carol E.

The first “farm bill”, or Food Security Act as it’s officially called, was adopted in 1933: with the nation struggling under the devastation of the Great Depression, Congress passed the act as a way to raise the value of agricultural products. 

Remember, this was a time when one-in-four Americans lived on farms, and the best way to get money into those rural pockets was through government programs that helped extend services to rural areas (such as irrigation, improved transportation, and rural electrification), and by establishing a set of price supports for crops.
 
Initially it really supported small-scale farmers and small communities in their efforts to support themselves.

But sometime over the last 74 years, the farm bill has become a vehicle for supporting corporate agriculture over small farmers and rural communities.

What happens in Washington does affect you and the things you care about.

We still live in a democracy, so learn as much as you can about the bill and its implications, and then make your voice heard: email or call your Senators and Congressmen.

Here’s where you can start learning:

• The National Campaign for Sustainable Agriculture has developed farm-bill priorities under the focus areas of organic agriculture; stewardship incentives; competitive markets and concentration (this committee deals with the National Animal Identification System, or NAIS); rural development; social justice and community food security; commodity programs; sustainable livestock; and renewable energy. Visit their website at www.sustainableagriculture.net

• The Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy is a nonprofit think tank out of Minneapolis. They have developed a website called AgObservatory that has lots of information on the farm bill and other agricultural policy issues. They are located at www.agobservatory.org

• The United States Department of Agriculture maintains a site on the farm bill. Go to www.usda.gov and look for the farm bill link at the bottom of the page.

~ Carol
www.carolekarius.com