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Myotonic Goats

Myotonic goats are also known as fainting goats
Courtesy Pat Cotten

A long time ago, around the early 1880s, a farm laborer named John Tinsley arrived in Marshall County, Tenn., in the company of four goats and an animal he called his “sacred cow.”

The old man wore unusual garb and spoke with a brogue, but exactly where he came from, no one knows. J. M. Porter of Caneyspring hired John Tinsley to work for him for a spell; before long, Tinsley’s goats were the talk of the hills because they stiffened and sometimes fell over when startled.

They piqued the interest of Dr. H. H. Mayberry so much that he offered to buy the goats. Tinsley initially declined the doctor’s offer, but eventually sold them to Mayberry for $36.

About a year later, Tinsley and his sacred cow left the hills, never to be heard from again. The buck and three does he left behind with Dr. Mayberry were the first known “fainting goats” in Tennessee.

Mayberry raised kids from his fainting goats and sold them to farmers throughout Tennessee and Kentucky.

Gradually they spread throughout the Southern states, where they became known as Tennessee Fainting Goats, Nervous Goats, Stiff-leg Goats, Scare Goats and a dozen or so additional, colorful names. During the 1930s and 1940s, they made their way to Texas, where they evolved as bigger, meatier goats.

Muscles contract upon being startled or scared
Muscles contract when startled or scared
The goats are awake for the duration of the process but are never in pain
Episodes are painless; goats remain awake until the stiffness passes.
After a little while the muscles relax
Photos by Rhoda Peacher

Eventually the muscles slowly release.

Over time, their numbers dwindled until, in 1988, they were added to the American Livestock Breed Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List and officially declared an endangered breed.

There they remain, although an ever-increasing number of hobby farmers and goat admirers are embracing this unusual, all-American breed.

Fainting Goats Don’t Faint
While many Myotonic goat breeders refer to their animals as “fainting goats,” Myotonic goats don’t actually faint. They’re affected by a genetic disorder called myotonia congenita that, when the goats are startled or scared, causes skeletal muscles, especially in their massive hindquarters, to contract, hold and then slowly release.

Episodes are painless and the goats remain awake (they often continue chewing food they have in their mouths) until the stiffness passes. According to Myotonic Goat Description, 2005, by D. Phillip Sponenberg, DVM, Ph.D., and Barbara Roberts, accepted degrees of stiffness in registered Myotonic goats include:

  • Level 1 Never observed to stiffen, but other type traits are consistent, as is pedigree.
  • Level 2 Very rarely stiffens, never falls.
  • Level 3 Stiffens only occasionally and rarely falls.
  • Level 4 Walks normally with no swivel. The rear limbs lock up readily, the forelimbs less so, and goats with this degree of stiffness rarely fall to the ground.
  • Level 5 Animal walks relatively normally, although somewhat stiff in the rear and with a swivel at the hip. Rarely stiffens when startled or stepping over a barrier.
  • Level 6 Animal always moves stiffly to some degree and readily becomes “locked up” when startled or stepping over a low barrier.
  • Levels 4 and 5 are typical. Level 1 Myotonics are called “limber goats” or “limber legs”; they’re atypical and rarely used in responsible breeding
    Miniature myotonic goats are used in shows
    Courtesy Renee Orr/MSFGAMiniature Silky Fainting Goats, with their lustrous, floor-length coats and eye-concealing bangs, are intended to resemble Silky Terrier dogs.

    programs. Some breeders select for extreme stiffness and others don’t, but myotonia is the primary hallmark of the breed.

More Myotonic Goat Characteristics

  • Myotonic goats are stocky, muscular and wide in proportion to their height. They range in size from 50 to 175 pounds and more; the strains developed in Texas are typically taller, heavier goats.
  • Myotonics’ medium-sized ears are carried horizontally, they have prominent eye sockets and their facial profiles are usually concave.
  • Most are horned; horn styles vary greatly from large and twisted to simple, swept-back horns.
  • The average Myotonic goat is shorthaired, but some have longer, thicker coats; the coat should be straight, not wavy.
  • The most common color is black and white, but Myotonics come in all colors, patterns and markings.
  • They’re easy keepers, adaptable and they tend to be parasite-resistant.
  • Most breed year-round, and twin and triplet births are the norm.

Breeders Talk about Their Myotonic Goats
Mike Schmitz of Pine Acres, Pine City, Minn., is among the legion of fainting goat fanciers who breed traditional, Tennessee-style Myotonic goats.

“I got my first fainting goats in 2001,” he says when asked how he became involved with the breed. “I was searching the Internet for an Angora goat to get as a gift for my friend who spins; I came across fainting goats and really wanted some. At first I was attracted to them as a novelty, as many beginning fainter breeders are, but now that I’ve had them, I love their docility, their curiosity, ease of handling and easy confinement in fencing. They come in many colors, sizes and coat lengths. They’re usually great mothers and very hardy.

Myotonia Congenita
(it isn’t just a “goat thing”)

Goats, dogs, cats, horses, mice, water buffalo and humans; all can be affected by myotonia congenita, the cell disorder that makes fainting goats “faint.”

Myotonia congenita is an inherited, neuromuscular disorder caused by mutations in the CLCN1 gene and characterized by the inability of muscles to relax after contraction.

The CLCN1 gene provides the body with instructions for manufacturing a protein that is critical for the normal function of skeletal muscle cells. The flow of charged atoms (ions) into and out of muscle cells controls muscle contraction and relaxation.

Normally, protein produced according to instructions from the CLCN1 gene forms a channel that controls the flow of negatively charged chlorine ions into muscle cells. This channel stabilizes the cells’ electrical charge and this, in turn, prevents muscles from contracting abnormally.

Mutations in the CLCN1 cells alter the structure of chlorine channels so that they can’t properly regulate ion flow; this disruption in chloride ion flow causes prolonged skeletal muscle contractions, the hallmark of myotonia congenita.

Myotonia congenita affects an estimated 1 in 100,000 people worldwide, although it’s more common in northern Scandinavia, where it occurs in approximately 1 in 10,000 people.

Two forms affect humans: Thomsen disease and Becker disease. The most common form, Becker disease (named for Dr. Julius Becker, the Danish physician who described the disease, citing episodes experienced by his own family members), causes more pronounced muscle stiffness than Thomsen disease, particularly in males.

Many people with Becker disease also experience temporary attacks of muscle weakness, particularly in the arms and hands, that are often triggered by movement after periods of rest; this muscle weakness isn’t seen in people with Thomsen disease.

People with Thomsen disease inherit the condition in an autosomal dominant pattern; typically, affected persons have one parent with myotonia congenita.

Becker disease is inherited in an autosomal recessive pattern; in most cases the parents of a person with Becker disease each carry a copy of the mutated gene although they don’t experience symptoms of the disorder.

Although myotonia can affect any of the body’s skeletal muscles, it occurs most often in the legs. The good news is that while myotonic muscle stiffness can interfere with movement, the condition isn’t painful.

Researchers at the University of Minnesota are currently studying foals affected by equine myotonia congenita. The affliction manifests somewhat differently in horses, causing affected foals to develop a cramp within a muscle group that produces a noticeable bump with a dimple beneath it.

Very young foals affected by this type of myotonia have well-developed musculature, but in time, their muscles waste and the foals develop a pot-bellied appearance.

Chow Chows, West Highland Whites, Great Danes, Staffordshire Bull Terriers and Labrador Retrievers all experience canine myotonia congenita,* but to date, DNA tests have been developed to pinpoint carriers in only two breeds: Miniature Schnauzers and Australian Cattle Dogs.

The condition is being studied in cats, as well.

* Canine and Feline Genetic Musculoskeletal Diseases, Gert J. Breur

“My goats are my hobby. They give me a reason to get going every morning in any kind of weather,” Mike adds. “I find it therapeutic to just hang out with them. I enjoy planning breedings, evaluating their conformation, watching kids be born and grow. Cleaning up after them and constantly working on fencing, shelter and feeders gives me physical activity. Unlike some breeders, I don’t expect to make money from my goats; people whose hobbies are fishing or snowmobiling or gardening don’t expect to make money from those things. However, some breeders are actively promoting their practical uses, particularly meat production. Many are opposed to that, but in my opinion, having a practical use is what will help preserve this breed.”

Two breeders who agree with Mike’s observation are Lisa Johnson and Pat Cotten, both of whom raise improved, meat-type Myotonic goats.

Lisa and Myron Johnson of Coyote Creek Ranch near Gainesville, Fla., raise a strain of black-and-white Myotonic meat goats they call Tennessee Mountain Ghosts.

When asked about their goats’ unusual name, Lisa replies, “In Tennessee, goats with these markings were once known as ‘Mountain Ghosts’ because herds of these animals roamed through the mists and valleys of the mountains; folks swore they looked like ghosts moving in and out of the shadows.”

The Johnsons’ Myotonic Mountain Ghosts are incredibly beautiful animals; short of leg and massively built, with sleek, wildly spotted hides. They’re medium-sized meat goats and that, Lisa tells us, is a very good thing.

“We’ve been raising goats since 1976 and it’s not uncommon for us to have 400 goats here on the ranch at any given time. In 1997, we purchased our first fullblood Boer goats, as it was our understanding that 100-pound market goats were in demand.

“We thought the large size and fast growth of the Boer would fit this niche, but it turns out that our best market is for 40- to 60-pound kids.

Myotonic goats are a moderate-growth breed; we need growth, but don’t want our kids to outgrow every holiday. With that in mind, weight gains aren’t our major concern. We’re more interested in how much it costs to maintain does throughout the year and it costs less to maintain medium-sized does.”

When asked what she likes about Myotonic goats, Lisa replies, “Myotonic goats don’t jump or climb and they aren’t escape artists! We can stretch one strand of hot wire 12 inches above the ground and they stay put. Myotonic goats have a high meat-to-bone ratio, and they’re feed-efficient and quiet. They’re efficient browsers and require little supplementary feed to maintain condition. The does are extremely maternal and they’re gentle with other does’ kids.

“Our mature breeding bucks are non-aggressive and easily handled—we move them from field to field on leads. These are hardy goats not requiring extra care and pampering. As medium-sized goats, they require less feed and less dewormer, they take up less pasture space and they fit in smaller shelters. A producer can run twice as many head on his land compared to larger breeds. They’re happy, healthy, well-adjusted and well-adapted.”

Pat Cotten concurs. Pat and her husband, Clark, raise Tennessee Meat Goats, TexMasters and Boer goats on their Bending Tree Ranch near Damascus, Ark. Their Tennessee Meat Goats are members of a massively muscled, trademarked breed developed by Suzanne Gasparotto at Onion Creek Ranch in Lohn, Texas. Gasparotto maintains the largest herd of Myotonic goats in the United States. Pat and Clark’s Bending Tree Ranch is an Onion Creek Ranch satellite operation.

“The Myotonic breed,” Pat says, “is listed as a rare breed with the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, so there aren’t enough of them available to be considered a slaughter animal for the meat market. However, Myotonics have a very valuable contribution to offer the meat goat industry.

“Research done at Virginia State University reveals a meat-to-bone ratio of 4:1, significantly higher than other breeds. Dr. Lou Nuti of Prairie View A&M University’s International Goat Research Center has proven that a 6 to 10 percent greater meat yield is achieved by using a Myotonic buck on other-breed does. This means less waste and more money in the producer’s pocket.”

Recognizing that there are many facets of the meat-goat industry and that some markets require larger animals, in 1995, Gasparotto began crossing Tennessee Meat Goat bucks with Boer and Boer-cross does. After many generations of select breeding, always using Myotonic and Tennessee Meat Goats as sires, she trademarked her new composite breed: the TexMaster. TexMasters are significantly Myotonic with just enough Boer to add a bit of faster growth.

“We’re sold on Myotonics and truly believe the TexMaster is the answer to the commercial meat breeders market. These goats are more laid-back than any other breeds we’ve raised. They’re more intelligent and more alert to what’s going on around them. It’s hard to get one to turn its back on you; they want to face you, watching you, and it’s hard to take photos of them because of this. The bucks are docile and the does are very protective mothers and easy kidders. Both breeds are good milkers and tend to have tighter-fitting udders than Boers or other breeds. Adults don’t jump on things or tear up fencing like other breeds of goat. Best, they consume less feed than my Boers, but are just as profitable. That’s an important consideration for goat-meat producers.”

Miniature Fainting Goats May be Raised at Pets
At the opposite end of the spectrum are miniature Myotonics raised as pets. Traditional miniature fainting goats can stand as little as 17 inches tall measured at the shoulder and weigh no more than 50 pounds. And for miniature goat enthusiasts who prefer something different, there are Miniature Silky Fainting Goats with long, flowing hair.

Miniature Silky Fainting Goats, with their lustrous, floor-length coats and eye-concealing bangs, are intended to resemble Silky Terrier dogs. Renee Orr, who developed the breed at Sol-Orr Farm near Lignum, Va., tells how these wee goats came to be.

“In the early 1990s, fainting goat breeder Frank Baylis and I met Gingerwood, a registered Nigerian Dwarf buck who had a long coat and a head full of hair, including thick, curly bangs. He was adorable! Later, Frank bought Gingerwood and crossed him with some of his smaller fainters. Frank produced some small, long-coated fainting goats, but lost interest and sold the entire herd so he could concentrate on his traditional Tennessee fainters.

“Later, Frank bought a longhaired, polled fainting buck in Alabama and more long-coated fainters started showing up. I was already breeding Nigerian Dwarfs, so I began thinking about developing a new breed the size of my Nigerians, but with the distinctive look of longhaired fainters; I also thought Nigerians would add more color to the mix.

“In 1998, two long-coated fainting bucks named Bayshore’s Rogues Pierre and Bayshore’s Napoleon were born into Frank’s herd. I began breeding Pierre and Napoleon to Nigerian Dwarf does with long hair and that I knew had fainters in their background. They immediately produced long hair and some of the first-cross animals fainted.

“The look caught on and in 2005 the Miniature Silky Fainting Goat Association was born. Now we have 49 registered breeders and more than 700 registered goats. We hope your readers will join us!”

Myotonic breeders have developed sturdy, colorful fainting goats of every sort and size. As a result, there are Myotonic goats for every taste and purpose—probably even yours.

This article first appeared in the November/December 2007 issue of Hobby Farms magazine.

Categories
Animals

Management Basics for Sheep Owners

Two White Lambs
This article contains excerpts from “Sheep Management 101” by Cherie Langlois, sheep owner and
 Hobby Farms contributing editor. It first appeard in Popular Farming Series: Sheep, a publication with in-depth information for those who own or would like to own sheep. Buy one online or call (800) PET-BOOK (738-2665).

If you’re a new sheep owner with a brand-new flock–or if you already have sheep on your farm–you want to do everything right:

“Sometimes,” says Robert Rutherford, a sheep specialist and professor at California Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo, “the more care we give sheep, the more harm we can do them … we can become so intent on caring for them, it’s easy to forget they’ve lived on wild moors, mountains and rangelands with minimal attention from humans for thousands of years.”

Dorset Sheep -- Warm and Wooley!
© Karen K. Acevedo

An general overview of basic sheep management:

Feed Your Flocks a Balanced Diet
As ruminants, sheep have a large stomach chamber–a fermentation and storage organ called the rumen. Ruminants have billions of helpful protozoa and bacteria residing in their rumen that flourish on a high-fiber diet. Further digestion occurs in the abomasum, or true stomach, which secretes acids and enzymes similar to the human stomach.

“In reality, you’re not feeding the sheep, but feeding the microbes that live in the gut,” says Rutherford. “Ruminants can only function if their rumen organisms are working well.”  

The basic components of a healthy sheep diet include the following:

Water: Since sheep take in moisture with the plants they eat, animals maintained on a diet of dry hay and grain will also drink more water.

Forage: Sheep prefer forbs–broad-leaved “weeds” that include clover and alfalfa–but they also dine on grass and shrubs like blackberries and multiflora rose, as well as timothy, brome grass and birdsfoot trefoil.

Grain: Sometimes sheep need the extra energy and protein that grains supply, such as during an ewe’s late gestation. 

Vitamins and Minerals: Feed stores carry supplements in block and loose form, but before purchasing a sheep-specific vitamin or mineral supplement, ask your local extension agent or your veterinarian what deficiencies occur in your area.

Note: Feed your sheep at about the same time each morning and evening; avoid upsetting the rumen with sudden changes in type or amount of feed, and never serve moldy grain or hay.

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Shelter Your Sheep from Nasty Weather
In general, adult sheep can cope with many types of weather thanks to their insulating coats of wool, but offer shelter to give them a place to:

  • Take shelter from downpours,
  • Dry out when wet, and
  • Escape the wind and scorching sun.

Lambs in particular become easily chilled during foul weather. Consider preserving a stall in a barn for your sheep–or try simple, three-sided shelters, port-a-huts and hoop houses. The shelter will need soft bedding to absorb urine and to give your sheep a comfy place to rest and ruminate.

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Handle and Capture Your Sheep with Care
Because sheep can become easily stressed, herding, capturing and handling techniques help keep a flock’s anxiety level down and reduce the chance of injury. Consider the following:

  • A well-trained herding dog can help control their movements.
  • Give sheep time to adjust from light to dark when entering an unlit barn or a potentially scary situation. An old-fashioned shepherd’s crook or other long pole can help with herding.
  • Reward sheep with something they really love (like molasses-laced grain) when they go into their shelter for the night–take time to befriend your flock with treats and gentle scratches on the chest to make catching and handling them easier.

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Vaccinations
Always consult with your veterinarian first to find out what diseases typically occur in your areas. A common vaccination: a subcutaneous injection (an injection under the skin) of Covexin 8 or CD & T to protect against the clostridial diseases and tetanus.

Ask your veterinarian or an experienced sheep raiser to show you the proper technique if you’ve never given a vaccination before.

Parasite Control 
Internal and external parasites can be combated with a variety of drenches, pastes, boluses, injections, sprays and pour-ons. It’s smart to practice alternative methods of control such as good pasture management and rotational grazing, and only treat your sheep for internal parasites when you identify a problem. Consult your veterinarian and reference materials, such as Popular Farming Series: Sheep, for guidance.

Hoof Care
Sheep hooves grow constantly and, if not worn down through daily activities, will need trimming to keep them from growing long enough to cause lameness.

As with administering vaccinations, let a pro show you the correct technique. Be sure to wear leather gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing to shield you from kicks and slips with the trimmers. Using a good, sharp pair of trimmers pointed away from your body, trim turned-over side flaps and carefully pare down long toes to give the hoof an even surface. Don’t cut too much at once to avoid cutting the hoof into the quick. If you do draw blood, a liberal application of styptic powder should staunch the flow.

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Provide Proper Pre-lambing Care
One of the times an adult sheep definitely deserves special treatment is during the critical period leading up to lambing. All that fetal growth in late gestation demands a lot of energy, which means the ewe will need to be on an increasing plane of nutrition without becoming overly fat. Her water requirements will also increase and she should get plenty of exercise, as well.

For an in-depth discussion of late gestation nutrition and pregnant-ewe care, read Managing Your Ewe and Her Newborn Lambs by Laura Lawson (TDF Publishing, 1997).

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Watch Out for Horns!
Horned sheep are lovely, but keep the following in mind when caring for them:

  • Be vigilant and cautious when working around rams. Horned heads pack even more of a punch than polled heads.
  • Never bend over a horned sheep when feeding or doing other chores. Even friendly ewes may suddenly rear up, clipping you in the face.
  • Horns can be caught on fences, feeders and stanchions. Choose your equipment carefully.
  • Broken horns bleed profusely. Don’t hesitate to call your vet for advice, but in our experience, broken horns soon stop bleeding on their own (you can also apply styptic powder to help cease the bleeding) and seldom pose a health threat. If flies are a problem, apply a fly-repellant ointment.
  • Watch horn growth. A horn pressing too close to a sheep’s face or curling into its jaw may need to be cut.

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Categories
Recipes

Potato Frittata with Fresh Herbs

Like an omelet, a frittata is mixture of your farm fresh eggs and other ingredients that cooks in a skillet, but rather than folding it over like an omelet, the frittata is left open and sets up slowly in the pan. It can accommodate heavier fillings than a classic omelet because it isn’t folded. Enjoy this omelet with your favorite muffin, toast or biscuits.

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces red potatoes
  • ½ cup sliced yellow onion
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • ¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper
  • 4 T. olive oil, divided
  • 8 large eggs
  • 1 T. minced fresh parsley
  • ½ T. minced fresh rosemary
  • ½ T. minced fresh thyme

Preparation
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Wash the potatoes and slice them 1/8-inch thick. Toss the potatoes, onion, salt and pepper in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Spread mixture in a single layer on a baking sheet and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Lower the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Whisk the eggs and fresh herbs together. Stir in the roasted potato mixture. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in an ovenproof skillet. Pour in the eggs.

Cook over medium-low heat, covered, for 10 minutes. Slide a spatula under the eggs every few minutes to keep the bottom from sticking. When the eggs are almost totally set, uncover and put the skillet in the oven. Bake a couple of minutes until the top sets and is lightly brown. Run a spatula under the eggs and then slip the frittata onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve.

Categories
Recipes

Wild Rice and Egg Squares

Work with Hobby Farms and make a Wilde Rice and Egg Square

As this rich egg dish bakes, the wild rice settles to the bottom to form a hearty crust.

Working ahead? You can make this dish up to 24 hours in advance; simply assemble the ingredients and pour into the buttered baking dish, then cover and refrigerate until ready to bake and serve.

Ingredients

  • 1⁄2 cup green onions, thinly sliced; include some green portion of onions
  • 2⁄3 cup red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, finely chopped
  • 2 T. butter
  • 8 large eggs
  • 1 cup half-and-half
  • 1⁄4 tsp. salt
  • 1⁄8 tsp. black pepper
  • 1 1⁄2 cups cooked wild rice, cooled
  • 1 1⁄2 cups Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

    Preparation
    Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Heat butter in heavy-bottomed skillet, sauté green onions and peppers until peppers begin to soften. Set aside.

    In large bowl, beat together eggs, half-and-half, and salt and pepper. Stir in wild rice, onions and peppers, and one cup of the cheese. Pour into buttered 8-inch by 8-inch glass baking dish. Top with remaining cheese.

    Bake approximately 45 minutes or until knife inserted in center comes out clean.
    Serves 4 to 5.

  • Categories
    Recipes

    Zucchini and Italian Sausage Quiche

    Zucchini and Sausage QuicheThe end of the growing season brings with it a flurry of activity that can exhaust the most hardy of souls—harvesting, canning, preserving, baking, freezing and finally, putting the garden to bed. What better time to take a breather and celebrate the season with family and friends.

    At harvest time, there aren’t many people who don’t have a plethora of zucchini to use up. This dish is a favorite of mine for putting the prolific vegetable to good use.
    ~ Lynda King, Hobby Farm Home “Country Fare” columnist

    Ingredients

    • 1, 10-inch, deep dish pie crust, baked
    • 1 lb. zucchini, shredded
    • 1/2 lb. sweet Italian sausage
    • 2-4 T. olive oil
    • 1 cup Swiss cheese, shredded
    • 4 eggs
    • 1 cup milk
    • 1/2 cup heavy cream
    • 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
    • 1/2 tsp. salt
    • 1/4 tsp. white pepper

    Preparation
    Remove casing from sausage and sauté in 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil until no pink remains. Drain and set aside. Squeeze excess moisture from zucchini and sauté in 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil until tender, about 5 minutes. Spread zucchini evenly on bottom of pie shell. Sprinkle crumbled sausage and Swiss cheese over zucchini. Beat eggs lightly in large bowl. Add milk, heavy cream, Parmesan cheese, salt and white pepper; blend well. Pour over ingredients in pie shell.

    Bake at 450 degrees F for 15 minutes; lower oven temperature to 350 degrees F and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until center is almost firm, but still soft. Let stand 15 minutes before serving. Serves 6.

    Categories
    Animals Poultry

    Broodiness in Chickens

    Although egg laying and brooding characteristics of chickens are genetically determined (with some breeds being better layers than others and some hens being more inclined to broodiness than others), all hens perform some amount of nest building and egg laying.

    For example, breeds that have been developed for high egg production have also been bred to not be broody; they are least likely to set on a clutch of eggs and brood it naturally.

    Nest Boxes

    If nest boxes are supplied with straw, hens will enter the boxes, scratching and pecking at nest material until they form a nice little hollow. After laying an egg, a hen will usually let out a cackle to let everyone know about her accomplishment. If you don’t provide nest boxes, hens may go off under a bush or other sheltered place and create a nest with available material such as straw, grass or weeds.

    Nesting Preferences

    Chickens prefer laying in nests that already contain eggs. They can also be extremely stubborn about laying in the same location, so if another hen is in a favored nest, you may find two hens crowded together trying to lay in the box at the same time. Broody hens will spend more time in the nest on cooler days and more time off the nest on warmer days, but overall they will get off the nest only for very short periods of time to eat and drink.

    Remember, if you don’t have roosters, your hens can sit forever and never hatch chicks, as the eggs are unfertilized. Roosters must mate with hens to produce fertile eggs. For laying hens, place food (primarily scratch grains while she is setting, instead of laying mash) and water near her nest so she doesn’t have to venture far to eat and drink. If you don’t want the hen to set on a clutch, you have to regularly remove all the eggs from under her.

    Communicating With Chicks And Monitoring Development

    Vocalization is even important during the brooding process. Scientists have discovered (using tiny microphones connected to eggs and placed in the nest) that the hen hears vocal responses from the embryos to her vocalizations. These responses give her clues as to how the embryos are developing compared to each other. Based on that communication, she turns the eggs at different rates—moving one that is maturing a little more quickly out to the edge of the pile to cool off and slow down, while moving one that is maturing more slowly to the center of the nest to speed development.

    Broody … Or Not Broody?

    Sometimes you’ll see a hen sitting on a nest, but you may not be sure if she is actually brooding. To find out, slide your hand under her and try to remove the eggs. If she is just sitting there, when you reach under her to take the eggs out, she will get off the nest rather indignantly, squawking and fussing the whole time. If she is broody she’ll stay put, pecking your hand and making little, throaty noises while she puffs up her feathers and tries to look tough.

    Categories
    Animals

    Great Scots: Highland cattle

    A coat of woolly hair, a massive body and sweeping horns, all in a package designed to withstand icy temperatures, low-quality forage and a host of predators. Although this may sound like a description of the extinct woolly mammoth, it’s actually a word picture of an ancient cattle breed known as the Scottish Highland.

    The Scottish Highland is one of the oldest breeds of cattle in the world. Going as far back in time as the sixth century, some historians believe the ancestors of today’s Scottish Highland may have come to Scottish shores from Scandinavia with the Vikings.

    However the breed originated, the Scottish Highland obtained many of its characteristics in the Highlands and west coastal islands of Scotland. Exposed to North Atlantic gales and a very severe winter climate, the Scottish Highland evolved to be a tough, self-sufficient breed.Many of today’s Highland breeders subscribe to the theory that the Scottish Highland resulted from the crossing of two ancient Asiatic breeds of cattle called the Bos Longifronsm and the Bos Primigenius. From the Bos Longifronsm the Highland got its long horns, and from the Bos Primigenius, its profuse coat.

    Scottish breeders of the subsequent centuries recognized these invaluable traits in their cattle, and worked to preserve them. Crofters, small farmers who lived in the Scottish high country, relied on the Scottish Highland for survival. The breed’s milk, meat and hair were a source of sustenance for these farmers, and the calves were a valued trade commodity within Scotland and in England.

    Although most of today’s Scottish Highland cattle are red or yellow in color, most of the old-time Highland cattle were black. Called Kyloes, these cattle were found mostly on the islands and were on the smaller side. West Highlands, on the other hand, were larger and lived on the mainland. Their reddish coats predominate in modern examples of the breed.

    In 1884, the Scottish Highland Cattle Society was formed in the United Kingdom to help preserve the purity of the Scottish Highland breed. Since that time, breed associations have been formed for the Scottish Highland in the United States, Canada, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.

    The Scottish Highland made its way to American shores in 1893, when the breed was first imported by a cattleman in New York. The American Scotch Highland Breeders’ Association—later called the American Highland Cattle Association—was formed nearly 50 years later. The breed had already developed a toehold in North America by the time the registry was formed to preserve and promote the breed in the United States.

    Highland Cattle Characteristics

    Highland cattle are noted by and prized for their long, shaggy, fur-like hair.
    Mechael Ellerray/Flickr

    People who own and breed Highland cattle are passionate about the breed. According to those who love these animals, this is no ordinary breed of cattle. Rather, Highland cattle are substantial and dramatic looking animals, with a coat of hair that lends an exotic and almost prehistoric look to them.

    Suzanne Clothier-Rice, who co-owns Hawks Hunt Highlands in St. Johnsville, N.Y., with her husband John Rice, became involved with Highland cattle five years ago, in part because of the breed’s appearance.

    “I first met some Highlands while traveling in Scotland back in the early 1980s, and it was love at first sight,” says Clothier-Rice. “It’s impossible to meet these cattle and not be smitten with their striking looks. Their shaggy coats, immense and elegant sweeping horns, and their powerful bodies all combine with their unblinking gaze of intense curiosity to create a picture not easily forgotten.  When I report that we’ve got Highlands, people who can’t remember a Holstein from a Hereford invariably say, ‘Oh, those are the shaggy ones with the big horns, right?’”

    The Scottish Highland breed standard, which describes the Highland in great detail, notes that the ideal Scottish Highland has a straight topline from the shoulders to the tail head, and has hindquarters that appear deep and square from the rear. The cattle’s straight, sturdy legs and large, well-set hooves round out the general appearance of the breed.

    The head of the Scottish Highland is broad between the eyes, and short from the eyes to the muzzle. The breed sports a “dossan,” the name for the wide, thick latch of hair between the horns that reaches to the muzzle.

    The breed’s horns are among its most distinctive characteristics, and vary between bulls and cows. While bulls’ horns extend in a level position from the head, curving slightly forward and downward, cows’ horns extend horizontally and have a feminine, graceful and symmetrical appearance.

    The Scottish Highland coat is another unusual aspect of the breed. More profuse in Highlands kept in colder climates, the hair consists of a soft fluffy undercoat protected by a long, strong, outer coat that can reach 14 inches in length. Both of these coats shed during warm weather, and come in black, brindle (red with black streaks, black with red streaks, or yellow with dun streaks), light red to dark red, yellow, dun, silver dun and white. The most commonly seen colors in the breed are red and yellow.

    The breed’s intense appearance is offset by its quiet and charming temperament. “For us, temperament is critical,” says Clothier-Rice. “We live very closely with all our animals, know each by name, and prefer to work on a very hands-on basis. Nasty, flighty or aggressive animals hold no appeal for us, and even our beef steers are pleasant to work around. The Highland bull is also considered a relatively mild animal—no small consideration when you think about the size, power and speed of any bull.”

    While Highland cattle have many virtues, they also offer challenges in some respects. “They are smart. Way too smart.Uncanny smart,” says Clothier-Rice. “And staggeringly athletic. The combination of great intelligence, naturally intense curiosity, awareness of detail, and athletic ability means that it’s not only not easy to fool a Highland, but they are capable of simply leaving a troublesome situation by vaulting over the nearest fence. This humbles us and reminds us that they do what we ask them to do and stay where we ask them to stay not because we have removed all other options—they do so because they feel like doing so. The moment cooperating no longer makes sense to them, they can and do take advantage of options they’ve had all along!”

    Highland Beef

    Although many treasure Scottish Highland cattle for their unique appearance and docile personality, most breeders also value these cattle for their fine meat. Described as lean and well-marbled, and void of the layer of fat most often seen in cold weather cattle, Highland beef commands a hefty price at market.

    According to testing conducted by the National College for Food, Land and Environmental Studies, a European organization, Highland beef has lower levels of fat and cholesterol and a higher protein and iron content than other beef, which is one of its appeals.

    “The beef is wonderful, with excellent flavor but also lean,” says Clothier-Rice. “We’ve gotten so spoiled by the Highland beef that we rarely eat beef dishes anywhere but at home. There is something profound about knowing your food, knowing its name and being able to put a face on the steak. For some folks, I suppose such intimacy would be troubling. For us, it allows us to eat with peace, knowing how that steer’s life was from the day he was born to the day he died, knowing that quiet, easy days free from stress or fear was what he knew day after day, and that probably the most concern he ever experienced—short of the last moments—was being dewormed or vaccinated or separated briefly from the herd. It’s our deal with the cattle: We will treat you with love and respect, and we will honor your body with aware, respectful consumption after your soul has stopped inhabiting it. We do not take these animals or their meat for granted—and we are grateful beyond words for the Highlands in any form.”

    Getting Started

    Visit Highland cattle farms to learn about them before deciding to raise them for beef.
    Björn Olsson/Flickr

    For newcomers to raising livestock, and cattle in particular, Highlands are a good choice in a first breed. Not only are they easy to handle and care for, but in many parts of North America, they are readily available.

    “We all have to start somewhere,” says Clothier-Rice. “When dealing with live creatures, it’s best to start with small numbers so that you can learn as you go without being overwhelmed or putting many animals at risk because of inevitable mistakes.”

    For the complete cattle novice, it’s importance to acquire cattle with excellent temperaments, that are healthy, and can be easily handled, meaning they have been trained to halter, lead and tie.

    “Having a kind, cooperative animal that knows the ropes can carry a novice a long, long way,” says Clothier-Rice. “I’d also suggest buying proven and possibly much older cows that, though a bit past their prime, can still produce calves for you—they know the ropes, they know what they are doing, and you can learn from and with them.”

    If you are a novice but have patience to spare, you can start your fold with weanlings. In this case, you will need the help of an experienced cattle handler to help you teach the calves how to lead and tie, since this requires knowledge and practice.

    “Getting involved with Highlands is not terribly difficult if you either live near good breeders or are willing to travel,” says Clothier-Rice. “As with dogs or horses or any livestock or animal, there is a considerable range in the quality of the animals available. Sadly, paying a lot is not a guarantee of quality, nor does a low price mean that the animal is poor quality. Take time to shop around, know exactly what kind of Highland you want to breed and which bloodlines will help you achieve that. If you want a more modern, leggy type of animal who is terribly ‘growthy,’ some bloodlines will help you achieve that. If you want a more classic, Scottish-type animal, choose carefully from breeders who also have that as a goal.”

    Clothier-Rice recommends visiting a lot of farms to get an overview of the cattle available to you. “Visiting farms is not hard to do, since Highland folks seem to love nothing better than a chance to talk about their cattle, and usually are quite welcoming to visitors,” she says.

    “We’ve learned a lot while leaning on a gate, watching cows, asking questions and just listening. Going to shows is also a good way to develop your eye for what you want, watch the cattle under some interesting conditions, talk to a lot of folks, and find what’s available.”

    When considering a breeder to buy from, it’s important to make sure you and the breeder are both emphasizing the same qualities in Highland cattle. “Be sure what you want in the way of temperament is what also matters to that breeder,” notes Clothier-Rice. “Some breeders consider cattle friendly if they don’t run away when they see people, for instance. We want a cow that will voluntarily approach and seek out human company with interest.”

    It’s important to remember that it can take quite a while to make money breeding Highland cattle, and some breeders never turn a profit, only making enough money to break-even. “Many beginners get involved with Highlands in order to make a lot of money,” says Clothier-Rice. “While well-bred cattle can sell for a fair amount—often far more than they would be worth as beef—there’s also a reputation that goes along with the ability to command such prices for cattle. There’s a joke that circulates among Highland folks: How do you make a small fortune in Highlands? Start with a large fortune.”

    Scottish Tradition

    Although Scottish Highland cattle are becoming very popular in the United States, Canada and various parts of Europe, the tradition of breeding these cattle is still important in their ancestral home of Scotland.

    “I have always been involved with Highland cattle, as my father and grandfather have been before me,” says Tom Woodneuk, owner of Woodneuk Fold, a family-run farm in the west of Scotland, 10 miles from Glasgow. “Both my father and grandfather were presidents of the United Kingdom Highland Cattle Society, and at present I am a member of the Highland Cattle Council.”

    Woodneuk currently has 110 Highland cows in calf and, including young females, calves, bulls and steers, has 330 cattle in total. “We try to breed quality cattle either for sale to other breeders or to go into the food chain,” says Woodneuk, whose facility is open to the public for visits.

    “There are a number of butchers here who sell only Highland cattle beef. We also sell some in freezer packs from our farm.”

    Michael Gibson, a former accountant whose Edinvale Farm is located in Speyside, Scotland, keeps a total of 600 cattle—80 of which are Highland—on 1,000 acres. Gibson sells many of his cattle for slaughter, as well as providing pedigree Highland cattle to other breeders. “In 1972, I bought my first two Highland cows in Oban,” he says. “I liked their hardiness and the fact that they did not require expensive buildings.”

    Gibson finds that even in Scotland, the challenges of raising Highland cattle have more to with economics than actually dealing with the day-to-day tasks of caring for livestock. “Making a profit is a challenge,” he says. “They are great fun and you can make money, but you have to be realistic about the quality of your stock. Remember that quality pays: fat and sleek is good; skinny and dirty is not.”

    This article first appeared in the February/March 2003 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. 

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    Recipes

    Goose Braised with Red Wine and Cherries

    Farm-raised or Wild?
    This recipe calls for domestic birds. The flavors and ingredients given will also work well with wild game birds, but keep in mind that wild birds are usually leaner, with darker, dryer meat and a stronger game flavor.

    Wild game birds usually benefit from less cooking time and the addition of fats such as butter or bacon to keep them from becoming too dry.

    Preparation methods for wild game birds also vary depending on whether birds are skinned (leaving meat vulnerable to overcooking) or plucked (plucking is more work, but it leaves the skin and fat intact).

    Ingredients

    • 1, 7- to 8-pound domestic goose, with or without skin, cut into 8 portions: 2 wings, 2 breast pieces, 2 thighs and 2 drumsticks
    • 3, 16-ounce cans pitted dark sweet cherries
    • 1⁄2 cup butter
    • 1 cup sweet white onions, chopped
    • 3 T. flour
    • 1 cup water
    • 1 cup dry red wine, like Pinot Noir
    • Additional water and red wine
    • 3 T. packed brown sugar
    • 1 tsp. cinnamon
    • 1⁄4 tsp. allspice
    • 1 1⁄2 tsp. salt
    • 1 1⁄2 cups raisins or dried sour cherries
    • 5 T. cornstarch
    • 1⁄3 cup cold water

    Preparation
    Drain cherries, reserving 1 1⁄2 cups of the juice. Set cherries aside.

    In large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add onions and increase heat to medium-high.
    Cook and stir until onions are tender. Add goose pieces and brown each lightly on all sides. Remove goose pieces and set aside. Stir flour into onion mixture. Then stir in the reserved cherry juice, one cup of water, wine, brown sugar, cinnamon, allspice and salt. Add goose pieces, drained cherries and raisins. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat, cover and simmer over medium-low heat (do not boil hard) approximately 2 to 2 1⁄2 hours or until goose pieces are tender and easily come away from the bone. Turn pieces once during cooking. Add more water and wine if necessary to ensure adequate cooking liquid.

    When goose pieces are tender, remove them from the broth and transfer to a heated serving platter. Set aside in a warm oven. Using a ladle or large metal spoon, skim fat from top of broth. If sauce is thinner than desired, blend cornstarch with the cold water and stir into sauce. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until sauce is thickened and translucent. Pour sauce over goose pieces on platter and serve.

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    Recipes

    Basil Pesto Recipes

    Article and photos by Kate Savage
     

    Classic Basil PestoDid You Know: Some Basil & Pesto History
    Is there anything more evocative of warm summer days than the heady smell of sweet basil?

    We associate it with big, juicy tomatoes and Italian cuisine, but in fact the original herb was from India and it’s used a lot in cooking throughout the Asian world.

    The word “basil” is derived from an old Greek word meaning “royal,” which reflects the ancient culture’s attitude towards a herb they considered noble and sacred.

    The tradition of reverence has continued in other cultures. In India, basil was cherished as an icon of hospitality, while in Italy, it was a symbol of love.

    Try pesto possiblities--like a dollop on soupWhatever your sentiments are towards it, by the month of August we are overwhelmed by it’s bounty.

    Save Some For Later…
    How to capture this abundance for the rest of the year so we can enjoy a little whiff of summer in the dead of winter?

    Make pesto and freeze it in an ice cube tray. 

    It freezes beautifully; that way whenever the winter doldrums grab you in its chilly fingers, you can pop out a pesto cube, whip up a favourite dish and conjour up the memories of summers past or the dreams of summers yet to come.

    Other Pesto Possibilities:

    • Combine 2 T. pesto with 4 T. mayonnaise to make a superb sandwich spread
    • Whisk 1 T. of pesto into 4 eggs before scrambling
    • Add to any stir-fry, especially those with eggplant and tofu
    • Use as a spread or a topping on tomato bruschetta
    • Brush onto chicken or salmon before grilling
    • Dollop a spoonful into a favorite soup, such as tomato bisque, and add toasted chopped walnuts

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    Pesto is typically made with sweet basil leaves, but it can be made with other ingredients such as sun-dried tomatoes, cilantro, artichoke hearts and even spinach. 

     
    However, the base ingredients remain the same: garlic, olive oil, cheese and pine nuts. (Don’t miss this treat: Basil Chicken and Garlic Sauce!)
     
    Some recipes may even suggest using cashews or walnuts as a substitute for the pine nuts and I have vegan friends who omit the cheese and swear it’s just as delicious!

    Traditionally, pesto is made by hand using a mortar and pestle. The ingredients are placed in the marble mortar and ground to a find paste or sauce. 

    The word “pesto” is derived from the word pestle, which in turn is derived from a word that means to pound or to grind. 

    Nowadays, most of us are into time and energy-saving methods, so this recipe uses the food processor for ease and speed.

    Classic Basil Pesto
    Makes about 1 cup

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups fresh basil leaves
    • 3 large garlic cloves, peeled
    • ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
    • ¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
    • ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
    • ½ cup olive oil
    • Salt and freshly ground pepper

    Preparation
    Combine the basil, garlic, cheeses and nuts in a food processor or blender. Process to mix. With the machine running, add the olive oil in a slow drizzle. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper and continue to process adjusting the consistency as desired. Let it stand 5 minutes before servings.

    Pesto Chicken with Garlic Sauce
    Serves 4

    Ingredients

    • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
    • ½ cup basil pesto
    • ½ cup buttermilk
    • 1 cup crushed crumbs or other coating
    • 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
    • ½ cup mayonnaise
    • ½ cup milk
    • 2 T. lime juice
    • Salt and freshly ground pepper

    Preparation
    Pound chicken breast to flatten. Spread 2 T. basil pesto on each breast, roll up and secure with a toothpick. Dip chicken in buttermilk, then coat with crumbs. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place chicken and garlic cloves on a baking sheet coated with oil or vegetable spray. Remove garlic after 30 minutes, it will be used in the sauce. Cook chicken a further 15 minutes or until tender.

    Sauce: Combine mayonnaise, milk, lemon juice and pepper. Squeeze roasted garlic into sauce and cook over low heat stirring constantly until warm. Place chicken onto a plate and pour warm sauce over.

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