A Traditional Holiday Table

By Adrianne L. Shtop

The holiday season is a sparkling time of family, togetherness and joy.  Decorations and gifts contribute to the festive setting, but nothing says “Celebrate!” quite like food. Signifying love and abundance, traditional holiday dishes are as nourishing to the soul as they are to the body. 

It’s no wonder people gather in the kitchen at parties. The hearth is, and will always be, the heart of a home, radiating warmth and well-being to all who enter. The mingling scents of baking pies, roasting meats and bubbling side dishes can banish all worries and instantly set the mood for gracious celebrations. 

Special dishes prepared just for these occasions are anticipated all year long:  “Of course I’m coming home for Thanksgiving, Mom. I wouldn’t miss your pumpkin pie!” Holiday meals also provide excellent forums for recounting family history, as traditional dishes have the power to refresh tucked away memories. Recipes that are handed down through generations carry these tales with them and become cherished family heirlooms. They connect us with times and loved ones passed, and mark our place in the family lineage. 

Recipe Lost and Found
Not all of us are lucky enough to have a recipe box full of such fare, however. Time and distance obscure many important connections with the past.  Often we grow so accustomed to a particular dish that we simply expect it will always be there, awaiting us on the table. Sometimes we assume a sister or cousin will maintain the treasured family recipe trove and we’re disappointed to find out we are wrong. When this happens, we need to create tradition anew.

To get you started, or to complement the collection you have, several inspired home cooks have contributed their families’ favorite holiday recipes. Some of these courses have survived the passing of years, while others only recently became tradition. All are offered here in the spirit of sharing and with the understanding that, be it holidays or any other day, the human family eats at one table.

Halloween

Barm Brack

Ingredients
A pot of hot Irish tea
2 cups mixed currants, raisins, candied citron
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. fresh yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm milk
2 cups flour
1 tsp. mixed spices (see Notes, below)
A pinch of salt
1 egg
3 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. superfine sugar
1 beaten egg white for the crust

Preparation
Soak the dried fruit in the hot tea overnight.

In a small bowl, mix sugar with yeast. Add to milk, cover and let sit 5 to 10 minutes until frothy. 

Sift together flour, sugar and spices in a large bowl. Cut in butter until crumbly. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture and the egg. Beat with a spoon for about 10 minutes until smooth. Work the fruits and salt into the dough by hand and knead well. Put dough into a greased bowl, brush top with melted butter, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk.

Knead lightly and place into a lightly greased, 7-inch round baking tin, cover and let rise until doubled again.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Bake dough in the top third of the oven for 40 to 45 minutes. A few minutes before baking is finished, take the brack from the oven, brush with egg white, sprinkle with superfine sugar and return to the oven for a minute or two.

Notes
1. Mixed spices: equal parts cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves and mace.

Thanksgiving
The next three recipes come from Marianne Rutter of Boxford, Mass. The Potato Filling was created by Marianne’s mother, Lucy Pantano, in the 1950s and has been a staple on their family’s Thanksgiving table ever since. Marianne says it’s the first thing her children ask for at dinner.

Marianne herself created the other two dishes, all of which became instant favorites with her family. “It just wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without my Sausage, Leek and Fennel Stuffing,” she explains. “The Red Wine Cranberry Relish is very easy to make, but never lasts long at our house because it gets more flavorful by the day and makes a delicious, low-fat spread for leftover turkey sandwiches.”

Lucy’s Potato Filling

Preparation
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a large bowl, coarsely mash the potatoes. Add the remaining ingredients, except milk and butter, and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. If mixture seems dry, add milk to achieve desired consistency.

Place the potato filling in a glass casserole or other ovenproof dish. Dot the top generously with butter. Cover with foil and bake for about one hour. Remove foil and bake another 20 minutes for a crisp top.

Marianne’s Sausage, Leek & Fennel Stuffing for Turkey

Ingredients
8 cups dry, crusty bread, cut into 1- to 2-inch cubes
8 Tbsp. butter
3 leeks, rinsed well, green tops discarded and white sections chopped
Half a large bulb of fennel, chopped (about 2 cups)
3 Tbsp. fennel leaves, chopped
3–4 sprigs fresh thyme, stripped from the stem (or 1 tsp. dried thyme)
3–4 sprigs fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
Salt & pepper to taste
1 lb. sweet Italian sausage meat
(Or 1 lb. ground pork, seasoned with 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds and salt & pepper to taste)
Chicken or turkey stock
Additional melted butter

Preparation
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large pot or skillet. Add the sausage meat (or seasoned ground pork), breaking it up with a fork until lightly and uniformly browned.  Set aside in a large bowl; do not drain.

In the same pot, melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Add leeks and cook until wilted (about 5 minutes), then add chopped fennel bulb and cook about 10 minutes more. 

Remove from heat and add fennel leaves, thyme, parsley, salt and pepper. Add browned sausage and mix well. Let mixture cool. (You can prepare up to this point the day before, refrigerating overnight.)

When cool, stir in the bread cubes and mix well. If stuffing seems a little dry, add chicken or turkey stock (1/4 cup at a time) until moist. You can add additional melted butter, as well.

Stuff your turkey! Singly this recipe should yield plenty for a 16- to 18-pound bird with some left over. Roast your turkey as directed, using minutes per pound for a stuffed bird.

Put the excess stuffing in a 3-quart casserole or baking dish. Pour 1/4 cup stock over all and dot the top with butter. Cover with foil and bake 30 minutes at 325 degrees F. For a crisp top, remove the foil after 15 minutes.

Red Wine Cranberry Relish

Preparation
In a medium saucepan, bring sugar and wine to a boil, cook one minute. Add all remaining ingredients and return the liquid to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until berries pop and liquid thickens slightly. Remove from heat, discard cinnamon stick and allow to cool. Serve chilled. Store refrigerated in an airtight jar.

Christmas

Marianne Rutter originated the following recipe, which she serves every year for Christmas dinner. 

Balsamic-Glazed Pearl Onions

Preparation
In a saucepan filled with boiling water, blanch onions for 1 to 2 minutes, remove outer skins and set aside.

Heat oil in a large saucepan. Sauté the onions about 5 minutes, add vinegar and water. Simmer 10 to 12 minutes. With a slotted spoon, move the onions to a warm serving bowl. Let the vinegar mixture continue to simmer until it is reduced by half, pour over the onions and serve. 
  
Christmas Pudding

Ingredients
1 cup self-rising flour (see Notes, below)
1 heaped tsp. mixed spices (see Notes, Barm Brack)
1/2 tsp. grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
2 cups white bread crumbs, freshly grated from a stale loaf
2 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 cup suet, shredded (see Notes, below)
4 cups currants
1 cup raisins
1/4 cup mixed candied peel, finely chopped
1/4 cup citron peel, finely chopped
1/2 cup almonds, blanched, skinned and chopped
1 apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped
Grated rind of 1 orange and 1 lemon
4 eggs
1/4 pint barley wine (see Notes, below)
1/4 pint Guinness or other stout
4 Tbsp. rum

Preparation
Mix together flour, spices, bread crumbs and sugar. Stir in the suet. Gradually mix in all of the dried fruit, dried peel and nuts. Add the apple and the rind of the orange and lemon.

In another bowl, beat the eggs. Mix in the rum, wine and stout. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir like mad! This mixing is essential, so get help if you like. The mixture should fall from the spoon when tapped against the bowl.  Add more stout if it is too dry. Cover with a clean cloth and leave overnight at room temperature.

The next day, grease two 2-pint pudding basins (see Notes, below) and pack the mixture in right up to the top. Cover with wax paper and secure tightly with string under the rims of the bowls. Steam for eight hours, making sure the water doesn’t boil dry.

Replace the wax paper with a fresh piece and store the puddings in a cool place.

Steam for an additional two hours on Christmas Day. To serve, unmold the pudding onto a large plate and sprinkle with rum or brandy. Take to the table, or a nearby serving cart. Hold a long lit match near the pudding to ignite the alcohol fumes. Wait for the flame to go out or cover with a metal lid to extinguish before slicing.
 
Notes:
1. Self-rising flour: Mix 1 cup all-purpose flour with 1 tsp. baking powder and a pinch of salt. 
2. Suet: The delicate fat surrounding beef kidneys. Some say you can substitute butter or vegetable shortening, some say, “Don’t you dare!”
3. If you can’t find barley wine, substitute brandy or whiskey, or add extra rum.
4. Pudding basins are thick, ceramic bowls with wide rims.

New Year’s Eve

Cilantro Poppers

Ingredients
8 oz. cream cheese
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
1 cup flour
Salt & pepper to taste
1/2 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
2–4 cups high-heat oil

Preparation
Using a deep fryer or a cast-iron pot, bring oil to frying temperature (approx. 370 degrees F). 

Beat milk and egg together, set aside. Combine flour and seasoning, set aside.

Mash cream cheese to soften. Mix in cilantro. Using a teaspoon, scoop portions of the mix and roll into 1 1/2-inch balls. Dip balls in egg/milk mixture, then into flour mixture.

Place 6 to 8 balls at a time into the oil and cook for 1 to 3 minutes. Remove and place on a paper towel to drain. Let cool slightly before serving.

This article first appeared in the Fall/Winter 2006 issue of Hobby Farm Home magazine.

If you’re fortunate enough to have more springtime garden bounty than you can eat and share with neighbors, don’t let it go to waste! Here are some ideas for preserving extras of a high-yield spring favorite: chives.

Chive Vinegar

Ingredients

• 2 cups chopped chives: regular, garlic or a combination
• 1 or 2 whole, dried, hot chili peppers
• ½ T. whole allspice
• ½ T. whole peppercorns
• 2 cups white distilled vinegar
• Additional chive stalks
• 3 or 4 chive blossoms (optional)

Preparation
Place chopped chives, peppers, ginger and peppercorns in a glass (not metal) jar or bowl.

Heat vinegar to just below boiling point. Pour over chive mixture. Cover bowl or jar with plastic wrap and fasten with a rubber band. (Do not use foil or a metal lid; it will react with the vinegar). Place in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Allow vinegar to steep at room temperature for two to three weeks.

Select one or two glass bottles or jars to accommodate 2 cups total. Use containers that have either corks or plastic (not metal) caps or lids. Sterilize containers by inverting them in a pan with a few inches of boiling water in it; boil 5 minutes.

Pour vinegar through a mesh strainer to remove solids. Discard solids; line strainer with a coffee filter and pour the vinegar through again into a glass pitcher or large measuring cup with a pour lip.

Place long chive stalks and chive flowers in bottle or jar. Pour vinegar over. Cap or cork tightly and label. Sprinkle on cooked vegetables, add to meat marinades and use in salad dressings. Makes one pint

All Recipes

Frozen “Chive-cubes”
Because of their high water content, chives can be difficult to dry successfully; they often mold first. Instead, preserve their piquant flavor and vivid, green color by freezing them to enjoy all year long in egg dishes, dips and spreads, cheese sauces, fish and potato dishes, and soups and stews.

1. Harvest: Cut chives one inch above ground level; don’t simply cut the tips as this inhibits the plant’s growth. Discard bruised, shriveled or otherwise damaged stalks.
   
2. Prep: Wash the remaining stalks in cold water. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Use kitchen shears to snip into desired length.
   
3. Package and freeze: Pack herbs into ice-cube trays, filling each cube one-half to two-thirds full. Set trays in the freezer and use a pitcher to top off trays with water.
   
4. Store: When herb-and-water cubes are frozen, remove from trays, place in resealable, plastic pint- or quart-sized freezer bags and stash them in an easy-to-reach place in the freezer. Keep up to one year.

To use frozen chives:
Remove desired amount of cubes from freezer (use frozen herbs in approximately the same proportion as fresh ones). For flavoring soups and stews, simply add frozen chive cubes near the end of your cooking time. For other uses, place cubes in a strainer, and allow to thaw and drain simultaneously. Pat dry with a paper towel.

Heirloom spinach varieties include America, Bloomsdale Long Standing, Bloomsdale Savoy, Monstreux De Viroflay, Merlo Nero, and Giant Thick Leafed.

Ingredients
1 pound fresh spinach, washed, stems removed
3 large eggs
8 ounces ricotta cheese
1 cup whole milk
1/2 cup prepared biscuit mix (such as Bisquick)
1 cup shredded Swiss cheese
1/4 cup onions, finely chopped
1 T. butter
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preparation
Place spinach in a large pot and add 3 cups water and a dash of salt. Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and drain in colander. As spinach cools, use the back of a wooden spoon to press it against the sides of the colander. The spinach must be very well-drained and as dry as possible.

Meanwhile, heat butter in a small skillet and sauteé onions until soft. Remove from heat and let cool.

In a large mixing bowl, combine eggs, ricotta cheese, milk and biscuit mix. Beat until well-combined. Stir in Swiss cheese, onions and spinach; season with salt and pepper.

Spoon mixture into a well-greased 12-cup muffin pan, filling each cup about half-full. Bake in a 325-degree F oven for approximately 45 minutes, until edges are browned and mixture is firmly set.

For a side dish to a green salad or a bowl of soup, cut this rich tart into wedges and serve with a plate and fork. For a finger-food appetizer, cut it into small squares and provide napkins. Makes 8 side-dish servings or 16 appetizer servings.

CRUST
2-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1 large egg, beaten
1-1/2 T. olive oil
6 T butter, melted and cooled
1/3 cup cold milk

TOPPING
6 cups thinly sliced yellow onions
3 T. olive oil
1 large egg, beaten
8 ounces Havarti cheese, cut into small chunks
1 cup grated Emmental or Gruyere cheese

To prepare crust: In large bowl, stir together flour and salt; make well in center. Add egg, oil, melted butter and milk to well. Working in the center of well, mix together liquid ingredients, gradually incorporating flour until dough forms. Turn dough out onto floured surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. Form into ball, wrap in kitchen towel, and let stand at room temperature for two hours.

To prepare topping: In large, nonstick skillet, cook onions in oil over medium-low heat until tender but not brown, stirring frequently (This step may take up to 45 minutes. Cooking the onions slowly brings out their full sweetness.) Season with salt and pepper, and cool to room temperature. Mix in egg, then Havarti cheese.

To assemble: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. On floured surface, roll out dough to form a 13-inch round. Transfer to a baking sheet. Fold outer inch of dough over to form a rim. Spread topping evenly over crust. Bake tart 10 minutes, then sprinkle Emmental or Gruyere over. Bake until crust is golden, about 15 to 20 minutes longer. Let cool slightly before cutting.

©Arie McFarlan The next time you grill out, consider trying adding the succulent taste of heritage pork, like these mulefoot tenderloins, to your menu. Unique Pork Products People who raise pigs for home use brag that they can use everything but the squeal! Indeed, there is a variety of products made from the pig that utilizes every last bit. Bristles/Hair: Brushes for hair, teeth, shaving Knuckles, feet, ears: Gelatin, pickled products, pet food Skin: Premium leather, footballs Head: Coldcuts (lunchmeat) Teeth: Jewelry, buttons Bones: Buttons, sewing needles, pet food Organs, Intestines & Blood: Sausages, Kidney Pie Stomach: Haggis Leaf or kidney Fat: Lard Liver: Terrine or French Pate’ Caul Fat: Wrapping Roasts & Poultry Meat: Chops, Ham, Roasts, Bacon, Loins The other white meat? “That’s not the way we think of pork, and after you taste Mulefoot pork, you won’t either,” according to Florence Fabricant of the New York Times, heritage pork is, “darker, more heavily marbled with fat, juicier and richer-tasting than most pork, and perfect for grilling.” Ham Stew? Looking for another recipe? Try this one for Harvest Pumpkin and Ham Stew. Top

On Arie McFarlan’s Maveric Heritage Ranch rare breeds of livestock, including American Guinea and Mulefoot Hogs, are raised and preserved in a natural environment.

Here are two heritage pork recipes from McFarlan to try on the grill.

Maveric Grilled Tenderloin of Mulefoot

Ingredients

Marinade:

• 1 bottle Stout or preferred beer
• ½ cup local honey
• ½ tsp. garlic powder or about 3 fresh garlic cloves, minced
• ½ tsp. ginger
• 1/8 tsp. black pepper
• ¼ tsp. salt
• Juice from one lime or ½ Lemon

Preparation
Marinate tenderloins in the refrigerator for up to two days. Grill whole, just until done on the outside, with a pink center. Slice thinly into medallions and serve on a bed of grilled mixed vegetables or rice.

Top

Maveric Pork Chops w/ Cherry Almond Sauce 

• 8 pork chops
• 1 can dark sweet cherries in juice
• ¼ cup light corn syrup
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar
• ¼ tsp. salt
• ¼ tsp. nutmeg
• ¼ tsp. ground cloves
• ¼ tsp. cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp. cracked pepper
• ¼ cup Slivered Almonds

Preparation
Marinate chops in juice from cherries, corn syrup, vinegar and spices for at least two hours. Remove chops and grill to desired doneness. At the same time, boil the remaining marinade for 1 minute. Stir in almonds and cherries. Serve sauce over chops. Goes great with rice, couscous or salad.

Top

Maveric’s Pork & Pepper Flares

Ingredients

• 1 pork Shoulder, cubed into 1” pieces
• 1 each: red, yellow, orange and green bell peppers, cut into large chunks suitable for skewering
• 1 lg. red onion, cut into wedges suitable for skewering
• 1 pint cherry tomatoes

Marinade
After dicing pork, marinade cubes for up to two hours in the following:

• ¼ cup melted butter or ¼ cup sesame oil
• ¼ cup curry powder
• ¼ cup plain yogurt (coconut yogurt also makes a nice treat)

To Assemble
Once marinated, alternate pork chunks, peppers, onion and tomatoes on metal skewers. Grilled until desired doneness. Bamboo skewers may be used, but they must be soaked in water for several hours beforehand to avoid burning the sticks.

Top

Ingredients
4 chicken breasts, bones and excess fat removed

Marinade:

• 1 nectarine, peeled and chopped
• 1/4 cup pineapple chopped
• 1/4 cup pineapple juice
• Juice of two limes
• 2 T. vegetable oil
• 2 T. soy sauce
• 1 T. onion flakes
• 1 tsp. chili powder

Salsa:

• 2/3 cup fresh pineapple, diced
• 1/2 cup strawberries, diced
• 1/2 cup mango, diced
• 2 T. green onion, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. lemon juice

Preparation
Place marinade ingredients in blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Pour over chicken breasts in a shallow glass pan. Cover tightly and marinade for a minimum of two hours or up to 24 hours. Bake, uncovered, in 350-degree oven, or grill over medium-high heat until juices run clear.

Combine salsa ingredients. To serve, top each chicken breast with one-quarter of salsa mixture.

More chicken recipes …