Floral-infused water is a refreshing and beautiful way to enjoy the subtle flavors of edible flowers while staying hydrated. It’s popular to infuse water with cucumber, citrus, fruit and herbs. Though one highly delicious and beautiful addition that is largely missed in water infusions is the incorporation of flowers. Floral waters offer a delicate aroma and taste that elevate your beverage experience. Edible flowers make incredibly delicious water-infused beverages, especially when integrated with other fruits and herbs.
We began our floral water infusing years ago, with fresh lilacs from our backyard. To make, simply fill a quart jar with fresh lilac flowers (no leaves, stems, or bugs), and fill the jar with cold tap water. Allow the flavors to infuse overnight, strain the flavored water from the flowers and enjoy the floral water with ice.
Why Use Flowers in Water Infusions?
Drinking lilac-infused water is such a treat since there is no artificial flavoring that can come close to being as special or authentically incredible as the scent of fresh lilac flowers. This is the same principal with other flowers and brambles, like raspberries, as well.
How to Make Floral Infused Water
When making floral water, we typically add one to two cups of fruit, herbs and flowers (2 cups total of mixed ingredients) to a quart jar and fill it with tap water to the top of the jar. The mixture of ingredients is completely up to your personal preference. If you want less of a floral
flavor and instead prefer a fruitier flavor, use fewer blooms and more berries. Herbs are strong, so only a few leaves are recommended per quart. Infuse the flavors for 12 hours, or overnight, and strain the solids out, reserving the flavored water. Enjoy with ice. Garnish with more fresh fruit or blooms.
Infusing with Fresh vs. Dried Flowers
If you use dried fruits, flowers or herbs, use about half as much as you would use for fresh blooms.
Favorite Floral Infusion Combinations
Fresh blueberries with sprigs of lavender (blooms closed)
Fresh rose petals with raspberries or strawberries
Fresh hibiscus with watermelon chunks
Another enjoyable floral delicacy is rose tea. Rose tea can be made from dried or fresh roses.
How to Make Rose Tea at Home
Yield: about 1 pint
Homemade Rose Tea Ingredients
2 ¼ cups of water
1.5 cups rose petals (fresh, cleaned and prepared) – If using dried rose petals, only use 2 tablespoons.
Homemade Rose Tea Directions
In a small saucepan, bring 2 ¼ cups of water to a simmer.
Add rose petals, remove from heat, and cover the saucepan with a lid.
Allow the rose petals to steep for 25 minutes.
Once the water has infused with the rose petals, strain out the solids, while reserving the rose tea in a heat-safe container, such as a pint canning jar.
Add honey, maple syrup or lemon to the tea and enjoy.
Cover and store any leftovers in the refrigerator, enjoy within a few days.
Safety Tips When Using Edible Flowers
Be sure to only use edible flowers when making infused water and tea. The best practice is to grow your own flowers so that you know they were not treated with any pesticides or other poisonous sprays. Specialty shops sometimes offer edible flowers for sale as well. If infusing with homegrown flowers, be sure not to harvest any from close to the road or from parts of the yard where pets use the restroom.
Floral Infused Water: Final Thoughts
Floral-infused water and homemade rose tea are delightful, refreshing ways to enjoy the natural flavors of edible flowers. With just a few safe practices, you can enjoy seasonal flowers in a whole new way—one sip at a time.
This article about rose tea and floral water was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
We joke here in Minnesota that our state bird is the mosquito. To say it gets buggy in the summer is an understatement. That’s why I turned to a natural solution: homemade bug spray. Whether you’re avoiding chemical sprays or just want a DIY option that smells great, this all-natural recipe is easy to make and effective against mosquitoes.
Natural Mosquito Repellents for Your Garden
There are some things that we can bring into our gardens to help naturally deter mosquitoes from our yards. The Massachusetts Audubon Society put some plants to the test to see if they actually
do work to keep the pests away without the use of harmful chemicals. They found that by incorporating flowers, herbs and other plants, they were indeed able to repel mosquitoes from the natural scent of the plants.
Plants that the Massachusetts Audubon Society tested that proved to aid in repelling mosquitoes include:
Because I’m personally not fond of using harsh chemicals that are found in commercial bug sprays, I started making my own homemade bug spray when my daughter was young.
This recipe only requires a handful of ingredients and only takes a few minutes to mix up.
It’s recommended to find a small bottle with a spray top for easy application.
Easy Homemade Bug Spray Recipe
Yield: 4 ounces
Ingredients
½ cup witch hazel
30 drops lemon grass essential oil (organic)
30 drops citronella essential oil (organic)
Directions
Mix all ingredients together in a bottle, mix well. Store in a dark place, like a closet, out of direct sunlight. Apply to skin as needed. Feel free to mix and match your own blend of homemade bug spray using other bug repellent essential oils.
Essential Oils That Repel Mosquitoes
Alternative essential oils that are also said to be effective at repelling mosquitoes include peppermint essential oil, lavender essential oil, lemon essential oils, eucalyptus essential oil, basil essential oil, rosemary essential oil, thyme essential oil, and tea tree essential oil.
An alternative to using witch hazel as the base of the bug spray is to use a high-proof vodka or isopropyl alcohol.
Tips for Using Homemade Bug Spray Safely
It’s not recommended to spray homemade bug spray directly onto clothing as it can leave a stain from the oils. Test on a small corner before spraying directly onto fabric.
Do not apply to hands or the face, as you do not want to rub the spray into your eyes.
This recipe is meant for humans, not animals – some essential oils can be harmful to pets.
Natural Relief for Bug Bites
If you do happen to get mosquito bites, a natural paste to help soothe the bite can be made with baking soda and water. Just add enough water to the baking soda until it’s formed into a paste, apply the paste to the bug bite, and allow it to dry on the skin. Baking soda has anti-inflammatory properties that help to relieve the itch. Remove paste with cool water and a rag after ten minutes or so.
Final Thoughts: Homemade Bug Spray
Making your own homemade bug spray is a simple, safe and effective way to keep mosquitoes at bay without resorting to harsh chemicals. With just a few natural ingredients, you can protect your family and enjoy your time outdoors. Try this DIY mosquito repellent and discover the difference for yourself.
This recipe has been shared from Small-Scale Homesteading, written by Stephanie Thurow and Michelle Bruhn, with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.
This article about homemade bug spray was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
The Orpington chicken is a popular chicken kept across the U.S. and Europe. And for good reason! It has both an award-winning personality and good egg production, making Orpington chickens ideal for backyard flocks.
William Cook Orpingtons
The Orpington chicken originated in Kent, England, in the village of Orpington in the late nineteenth century. Bred by William Cook, the breed initially sported black feathering instead of the more common buff variety found today.
Mr. Cook developed the Black Orpington by crossing Minorcas, Black Plymouth Rocks, and Croad Langshans to create a dual-purpose chicken to excel at egg laying and produce a good table bird.
While the Black Orpington was originally popular in England, the color quickly lost favor when the buff variety was developed by crossing Golden Spangled Hamburgs, Buff Cochins, and Dark Dorkings to create the most popular of the Orpington chicken’s color varieties.
The Buff Orpington arrived in America in 1891 and quickly gained popularity with midwestern farmers who favored these chickens for their excellent table qualities and eye-catching color.
Orpington Chickens: A Dual-Purpose Chicken Breed
Bred to be a dual-purpose breed (meaning they can produce eggs and meat), the Orpington chicken produces a fair number of eggs and is a decent meat bird. However, if you are looking for a high production breed to excel at either of these qualities, the breed may not be the best choice to fit your needs.
Orpington hens average three to six large light brown eggs weekly (about one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty eggs annually). Bear in mind that these hens can go broody, so egg production will also vary due to this trait.
As table birds, Orpington roosters are slow-growers reaching market weight (seven to eight pounds) between the age of five to six months. The Orpington chicken is especially well-known for their superb quality legs and thigh meat.
Eye-Catching Orpington Varieties
The Orpington Chicken comes in many eye-catching colors, including Black, Blue, Buff, Chocolate, Cuckoo, Lavender, Mottled, Red, Spangled, Splash, and White.
Heavy Breed Chickens
The Orpington chicken is a large bird with heavy feathering, giving the breed the appearance of being even larger than it actually is. The weight will vary depending on strain and some Orpingtons can be much smaller than the breed’s typical standard.
Average mature rooster weight: 7 – 10 pounds
Average mature hen weight: 6 – 8 pounds
Health Concerns
The Orpington chicken is a generally healthy breed; however, they can suffer from egg laying disorders common in brown egg layers including egg binding, egg yolk peritonitis, ovarian cancer/tumors, and oviduct prolapse.
Other health concerns, including bumblefoot, external parasites, heatstroke, and obesity, can be common in this heavyweight breed.
Special Considerations
Due to their large size and heavy feathering, the Orpington chicken has some special considerations that chicken owners should keep in mind.
Orpingtons can not fly or even run very fast and are prime targets for a predator attack. A concrete coop floor, predator skirts, strong half-inch hardware cloth over the sides and roof of an enclosed run, and no gaps larger than half-inch anywhere in the coop or run are essentials to protecting Orpingtons and other poultry from predators. Only allow these gentle giants to free range under the watchful eye of an adult.
Keep perches about two feet off the floor to help Orpingtons access the perch easily.
Provide plenty of physical and mental stimulation to keep Orpingtons happy, healthy, and maintain a healthy weight.
Restrict feeding times to twenty to thirty minutes twice daily to prevent Orpingtons from becoming obese.
How Long Do Orpington Chickens Live?
The Orpington chicken has a respectable life expectancy of five to eight years. (The typical lifespan of a backyard chicken)
Orpington Temperament: A Friendly Chicken Breed
The Orpington chicken has one of the best personalities for families with small children. These gentle giants are one of the most affectionate of all chicken breeds and quickly become part of the family.
Friendly, sweet, interactive, and personable, Orpingtons love to interact with adults, are patient with children, and enjoy sitting on your lap for a snuggle.
If raised with frequent, gentle handling as chicks and continued handling through adulthood, Orpingtons make an ideal breed for those solely looking for a pet chicken.
Orpington roosters are often less aggressive than other breeds and often display a friendly and affectionate disposition toward their handlers. Keep in mind that all roosters are individuals, so be sure to monitor your rooster closely for any signs of aggressive behavior, especially when allowed to interact with children and other household pets.
Orpington Chicken FAQs
Q: Where did the Orpington chicken originate?
A: The Orpington chicken was developed in 1886 in Orpington, England, by William Cook, a poultry breeder and former publisher of the Poultry Journal.
Q: What was the purpose of creating the Orpington breed?
A: Cook developed the Orpington to be a dual-purpose bird—an above-average egg-layer and a good table bird, with hardiness and fast growth in mind.
Q: What was the first recognized color variety of Orpingtons?
A: Black was the first variety, chosen because it hid the soot and grime common in London at the time.
Q: When were Orpingtons first imported to the U.S.?
A: Orpingtons began arriving in the United States around 1890, in small numbers.
Q: When did the American Poultry Association (APA) accept Orpingtons?
A: The APA accepted the Buff Orpington in 1902, followed by Black and White in 1905, and Blue in 1923.
Q: Do Orpingtons come in other colors?
A: Yes, aside from the APA-accepted colors, Orpingtons can also be found in unrecognized varieties like lavender (self-blue), silver laced, gold laced, partridge, and Isabel.
Q: Are there bantam Orpingtons?
A: Yes, the APA recognizes a bantam version of the Orpington.
Q: What do Orpington chickens look like?
A: Orpingtons are large, fluffy birds with a wide, rounded breast and back. Roosters average 10 pounds and hens about 8 pounds.
Q: When do Orpington hens begin laying eggs, and how many can I expect?
A: Orpington hens typically start laying between 6 and 8 months old and produce about 150 to 200 large cream to light brown eggs per year.
Q: Are Orpingtons good for hot or cold climates?
A: Both! Orpingtons are hardy and adapt well to both heat and cold. In hot climates, they need shade and cool water, while their dense feathering helps them thrive in snowy conditions.
Q: Can Orpingtons be kept in confinement?
A: Absolutely. Orpingtons tolerate confinement well and are known for their docile and friendly personalities, making them great for backyard flocks.
–By Sarah Batz, president of the United Orpington Club
Orpington Chicken Fun Facts
William Cook not only bred the original Black Orpingtons, but he also went on to breed four other color varieties in the breed: White, Buff, Jubilee, and Mottled. Later, his son-in-law, Mr. A. C. Gilbert, created the Blue and Cuckoo varieties.
The Buff Orpington chicken, shown by Dr. Henrietta Hooker, won a blue ribbon at its first showing at Madison Square Gardens in 1920. Three years later, in 1923, Henrietta’s daughter, Patience, took home a prize with her hen winning the title of champion Buff Orpington.
With their sweet and friendly personalities and golden colored feathers, the Buff Orpington chicken is nicknamed the Golden Retriever of the chicken world.
Orpington Chickens: Final Thoughts
The Orpington chicken has stood the test of time because of their sweet personality, quality meat and egg production. With so much to love about this breed, it’s easy to see how the Orpington became a success and continues to grow in popularity amongst backyard flock owners.
Toxic foods for chickens are more common than many flock owners realize, especially in summer, when seasonal treats are plentiful. From kitchen scraps to leftovers, it’s tempting to share with your hens, some foods can seriously harm them. Here are four summer foods that are toxic to chickens and should be kept off the menu.
1. Spinach – High Oxalates Can Block Calcium
Fresh spinach salads are a summer-meal staple, tossed with everything from sliced eggs and chopped walnuts to crunchy pepitas and juicy strawberries. While these toppings are totally safe for chickens, the spinach itself is not.
Spinach leaves contain oxalic acid, which binds with calcium, blocking its absorption into the body. This can be catastrophic for laying hens, leading to soft-shelled or no-shelled eggs, egg binding and skeletal issues. Also known as oxalates, oxalic acid can also cause kidney stones and renal failure.
How much spinach is too much? The answer varies, since no two birds are alike and flock owners define “in moderation” differently. Proponents of feeding chickens spinach point out that small amounts are beneficial to birds, due to all the nutritional positives provided by this leafy green … nutrients and vitamins that are already fully provided by chicken feed.
The safest option for your flock is to not offer spinach at all and, instead, provide safer greens such as dandelion leaves and beet greens, both of which are abundant during the summer. For me, toxic foods are best kept away from chickens altogether!
2. Green Potatoes – Solanine Poisoning Risk
Whole potatoes, wrapped in aluminum foil and cooked amidst charcoal briquettes, were part of every family cookout during my childhood. My sons, for some reason, dislike baked potatoes but adore potato salad and hand-cut fries, both of which are essential parts of our summer dining menus.
The sheer number of potatoes I peel to feed our family of six would floor you … and possibly earn me honorary citizenship in Idaho.
During prep, I make sure to carefully gather all my potato peels and carefully dispose of them in the trash. As much as I dislike adding biomass to the local landfill, I also understand that potato peels are laden with the alkaloid solanine, a toxin common to plants in the nightshade family.
Effects of solanine ingestion by chickens include diarrhea, dizziness, arrhythmia, paralysis and death. Even buts of green potato flesh contain enough solanine to endanger your chickens. Because my birds free range—and to avoid potentially poisoning wildlife, my raw potato peels never get composted. However, fully cooked potatoes—and their peels—can be safely ingested by chickens.
So remember: cooked potatoes are fine, but raw potatoes are one of the toxic foods for chickens.
3. Avocados – A Hidden Danger in the Pit and Skin
Avocados and summer go hand in hand. I fondly recall plucking ripe avocados from my grandmother’s trees when I was a child. My Uncle George and I would sit on the low wall surrounding the garden, eagerly diving into these delicious home-grown treats with our spoons.
Every now and then, the avocados I picked were nowhere near ripe. My uncle would amuse himself by hurling these into the garbage bin. Every now and then, my grandmother would scold him, telling him we could always just set the unripe fruit on the wall to ripen for a few days. My uncle’s expression would grow serious and he’d reply, “You know we can’t.”
I never understood his mysterious words and solemn expression until years later, when I learned that not even a half-ounce of avocado flesh was enough to fatally poison a parakeet. It’s not just the avocado flesh: the skin, the pit, even the leaves all contain the toxin persin, which can cause labored breathing, myocardial necrosis (heart-tissue death) and death within hours of ingestion.
Enjoy adding avocados to your summer salads and tacos, but toss all leftovers, skins, pits, and leaves in the trash. As far as foods toxic to chickens go, this is one of the really big ones!
4. Stone Fruit – Choking Hazard and Cyanide Risk
Peaches, nectarines, and cherries abound during the summer months. My husband Jae and I love going to our local farmers’ market to stock up on these fresh summer fruits, which we eat as snacks, as dessert and as ingredients in light, healthful entrees.
Our birds adore these fresh fruits as well and, when our enthusiasm causes us to buy more fruit than we can actually eat, we share them with our chickens … but not before we remove the pits.
All members of the Prunus genus—which includes chokecherries, almonds, apricots, cherries, nectarines and peaches—contain pits high in amygdalin. Amygdalin converts into the toxin cyanide when digested. Chickens poisoned by cyanide typically die within 15 to 30 minutes of ingesting the poison, which prevents cells from absorbing and using oxygen, causing irreversible cellular damage and death.
Share your summer fruits with your flock, as long as you first put the pits in their place: safely in the garbage can.
FAQ: Toxic Foods for Chickens
Q: What foods are most toxic to chickens?
A: Avocados, chocolate, moldy foods, and green potatoes or tomatoes are among the most toxic. They can cause digestive distress, respiratory issues, or death.
Q: Can chickens eat watermelon or other fruits?
A: Yes, most fruits like watermelon, berries, and apples (without seeds) are safe in moderation and help keep chickens hydrated in summer.
Q: What happens if a chicken eats something toxic?
A: You may see symptoms like lethargy, diarrhea, tremors, or difficulty breathing. Contact a veterinarian immediately.
Q: Are moldy scraps ever safe for chickens?
A: No. Moldy food can contain mycotoxins that are extremely dangerous and should never be fed to chickens.
Final Thoughts: Toxic Foods for Chickens
Keeping your flock healthy starts with knowing what not to feed them. Toxic foods for chickens—especially those common in summer—can lead to serious health issues or even be fatal. By avoiding risky treats like avocados, chocolate, moldy scraps, stone fruit pits, green potatoes, and high-oxalate greens like spinach, you’ll help ensure your hens stay safe, productive, and happy all season long. When in doubt, stick to fresh produce and chicken-safe snacks, and always monitor your flock after introducing something new.
This article about what not to feed chickens was written for Chickens and Hobby Farms magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Egg-eating hens can be a frustrating and costly problem for backyard chicken keepers. Once a hen discovers that eggs are a tasty snack, the behavior can quickly spread through the flock. Understanding why hens start eating eggs—and taking swift, practical steps to stop it—is key to protecting your daily harvest. In this article, we’ll explore the common causes of egg-eating in chickens and share nine proven strategies to prevent and correct this behavior before it becomes a habit.
Egg-Eating Hens: Telltale Signs
The telltale signs were hard to ignore. While the eggs collected from the ducks, Silkies and Ameraucanas were just fine, the ones from the main Orpington coop were not. At first, it was just one egg coming in coated with sticky, dried yolk. Over a week, the number of affected eggs increased to two or three per day. A peek into the coop’s nest boxes one morning revealed messy, rich yellow stains sullying all three nest pads. I quickly tossed these onto our compost heap and replaced them with fresh pads, but the next morning, one of the new pads—and the three eggs in it—bore the same golden blotches. There was no longer any doubt: These are the signs of egg-eating hens, and one of our birds was an egg eater.
Ana Hotaling
Why Do Hens Start Eating Their Eggs?
In egg-eating hens, the offending chicken pecks at an egg and then either eats the interior but not the shell or eats the entire egg. Egg-eating hens start this behavior for several reasons. Curiosity is one, especially in pullets and young hens. That oval thing that materializes seemingly out of nowhere? That bears investigating! An egg accidentally crushed by a heavier bird, such as a Brahma or English Orpington, or by overcrowded conditions? Very intriguing! Layers that are deficient in calcium might begin eating eggs to boost their mineral levels, while birds of both genders that are lacking in protein might find exactly what their bodies need contained within that fragile shell.
Proven Ways to Stop Egg-Eating Hens
Keep your flock free of egg-eating hens that cut into your profit margin by taking steps to thwart this behavior in your henhouse.
1. Collect Eggs Early and Often
Collect eggs regularly throughout the day. If the eggs aren’t sitting unattended in a nestbox, they won’t catch the attention of a potential eater.
2. Supplement with Calcium to Strengthen Shells
Place a hopper filled with crushed oyster shell or limestone in your coop to keep your girls’ calcium levels healthy—but only if there are no chicks or juveniles who might ingest it, as an overly high calcium level can cause improper bone growth and kidney failure.
3. Add More Protein to Their Diet
Protein is vital at all times, but especially during molting season, when it’s essential for feather regrowth. It’s also crucial for layers, who require it for egg production. Protein-filled treats such as sunflower kernels and dried mealworms, as well as protein-rich supplements, such as Calf Mann, provide your flock with this key nutrient. Switching to a starter or game-bird feed, both of which contain higher percentages of protein than layer rations, is another option to consider.
4. Provide Enough Nest Boxes to Discourage Egg-Eating Hens
Prevent accidental egg breakage by ensuring that you have enough nestboxes for your hens. One nestbox for every four girls is a good ratio and one that should keep your girls from all climbing into the same nestbox at the same time, potentially squashing the eggs already laid.
5. Practice Good Chicken Keeping Habits
Make sure that your chicken-rearing practices don’t encourage your birds to become egg-eating hens. Never dispose of cracked or pecked eggs by tossing them on the ground, where your chickens can feast on them and develop a taste for raw egg. Similarly, offering your flock their own eggshells as a source of calcium can have disastrous consequences. If you choose to offer eggshells, make certain that they have been thoroughly cleansed of membrane, yolk and albumen, baked until they are brittle, and crushed or ground until they no longer resemble eggshells.
Once you’ve determined that you have an egg-eater in your flock, your next move is to identify the perpetrator. You’d think that this would be easy: It’s the chicken with the yolk on her beak or the bits of shell on her feathers, right? Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case: Egg eating commonly occurs early in the morning, often before the birds have been released from their coop for the day. Those telltale traces often disappear by the time the door is opened.
5. Identify the Culprit Hen with a Camera
One way to catch a culprit is with a nestbox camera. Available at wild-bird supply stores and sites, a nestbox cam mounts on the wall of your nestbox and records all activity occurring within. There are drawbacks, however. You’ll need multiple cams if your coop features more than one nestbox; it won’t help at all if you’re recording the west box when eggs are being eaten in the east box. If your hens look alike, a nestbox cam will not help you identify your egg eater, because they’ll appear identical on the footage. Nestbox cams can also be a little pricey, especially the more compact models.
On a personal note, lying in wait with the hope of catching the offender red-handed—or golden beaked—was the option my sons chose. As expected, it lasted all of three hours. Trying to stay out of sight of our curious Orpingtons proved too difficult for two adolescent boys. Checking the Orpington nestbox every half hour also guaranteed that no hen would lay an egg, much less eat one, amongst all that commotion.
6. Catching the Culprit with a Dye-Filled Egg
Several mornings of meticulously examining every Orpington upon release yielded no clue as to the identity of my miscreant. It was time to outsmart the outlaw. I selected a freshly laid egg, then shook it to release the yolk from its casing. Using a yarn needle, I carefully pierced the egg on the rounded end as well as the point, gently wiggling the needle on the round side to widen the opening slightly. With a straw, I blew the contents of the egg out of the shell into a small bowl.
Ana Hotaling
Using wax from a lit candle, I sealed the hole in the point. Next, using a tiny funnel, I filled the egg with light corn syrup colored a deep green using food dye. Once the egg was filled, I used wax to seal the top hole, then I lightly smeared a fine layer of blown egg yolk over the shell to mask the scent of wax and syrup.
Ana Hotaling
When the shell was dry, I placed it in the leftmost nestbox in the Orpington coop, then waited for results.
That first day, I was almost foiled by Flapjack Orpington, who went broody and, of course, chose my egg to hunker down on. After two hours, I remembered that Flapjack’s heat might very well soften the wax covering the openings on the egg, so I quickly shooed the poor disgruntled hen out of the nestbox. No further action involving my trap egg occurred that day. The next day, it rained all day and the birds spent most of their waking hours huddled underneath their coop, glaring at the puddles developing in their run.
On the morning of the third day, I checked the coop nest boxes before releasing the Orpington flock, and bingo! All that was left of my trap egg were a few teal-colored pine shavings. Not one piece of shell remained. There wasn’t even a sticky mess in the nestbox, as I had feared might happen with the corn syrup. I opened the pop door, inspecting each chicken trooping out. Every single bird walked by with a clean beak— except the very last one. Lemon Cupcake stepped out of the coop, her beak and a few feathers tinted green. Our egg-eater was caught at last!
Ana Hotaling
Frequently Asked Questions About Egg-Eating Hens
Why do egg-eating hens develop this behavior?
Egg-eating often starts due to accidental breakage, poor nutrition, boredom, or curiosity. Once a hen tastes an egg and likes it, she may begin actively seeking them out.
Can feeding eggshells cause hens to eat their own eggs?
Feeding crushed, baked eggshells is generally safe and does not cause egg-eating. Make sure the shells are unrecognizable as eggs to avoid creating a connection.
How can I tell which hen is eating eggs?
Look for sticky beaks, yolk on feathers, or use a game camera to monitor nest boxes. Separating hens or using roll-away nests can also help identify the culprit.
Can egg-eating hens be retrained?
Yes—many egg-eating hens can be corrected with dietary improvements, nest box modifications, and deterrents like fake eggs. The sooner the behavior is addressed, the better the outcome.
Should I cull a hen that eats eggs?
Culling is a last resort. Try behavioral correction first.
Do roll-away nest boxes really work?
Yes. Roll-away nest boxes keep eggs out of sight and reach, which greatly reduces temptation and breakage—two major triggers for egg-eating hens.
Should You Remove an Egg-Eating Hen from the Flock?
An egg-eating habit is extremely difficult to break, and most experts recommend culling the offender as the only true way to stop this behavior. Lemon Cupcake, however, is my son Jaeson’s chicken, and he asked me to please not kill the hen he’d raised from an egg. I moved Lemon Cupcake from the main Orpington coop to the New Orpington coop, where she settled in after a brief pecking-order display from head girls Butters and Selene. Everything went fine for two days. On the third morning, the egg eater was back in action.
I’ve now temporarily placed Lemon Cupcake with our Ancona duck flock; the ducks’ coop has a perch in it to accommodate unexpected overnight chicken guests. Because the Anconas bury their eggs, Lemon Cupcake will have a trickier time snacking. In the meantime, I’ll ready our chicken tractor for spring. Lemon Cupcake and her friend, Big Boy, will move in once it’s ready. This way, the only eggs at stake are her own.
Offering her a dish of milk for several days to increase her calcium and protein intake.
Offering her a highly peppered beaten egg.
I’m keeping my fingers crossed!
Final Thoughts on Managing Egg-Eating Hens
Egg-eating hens can pose a serious challenge, but with prompt action and consistent management, the behavior can often be stopped. By addressing nutritional needs, improving nest box conditions, and reducing boredom in the flock, you can eliminate the triggers that lead to egg-eating. Keep a close eye on your hens, collect eggs regularly, and don’t hesitate to try multiple prevention strategies until you find what works. With a proactive approach, your hens can return to laying—not stealing—your daily eggs.
This article about egg-eating hens was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
There are many types of hammers, each designed for specific tasks around the farm, workshop, or home. From claw hammers to rubber mallets, choosing the right hammer for the job makes work safer and more efficient.
In this guide, we’ll explore 6 common hammer types, their uses and which ones belong on your farm tools rack.
1. Claw Hammer: Your Everyday Go-To Tool
Let’s talk about the obvious first. The claw hammer is what everybody thinks of when they say the word “hammer.” It has a rounded head designed especially for nailing, and a lever-like “claw” on the back intended for the safe removal of bent nails. They are incredibly useful for many types of general tapping, pounding, and nailing. You might consider keeping one in the garage, another in the barn and one in the stable. 16-ounce claw hammers—meaning the head itself weighs 16 ounces—are quite common and popular. But you can also find lighter and shorter 12-ounce hammers for small jobs or powerful 20-ounce models for experienced users.
2. Framing Hammer: Built for Heavy Construction
Related to the claw hammer is its robust cousin, the framing hammer. These tend to be a little more heavily built and ideal for lots of nailing and rough construction of stud walls and rafters. Building a toolshed? This hammer has you covered.
3. Sledgehammer: Best for Demolition Jobs
For deconstruction tasks, which can come up often on a farm, a sledgehammer is a key tool to have on hand. The head of a sledgehammer weighs a good amount, usually between 5 and sometimes up to a whopping 20 pounds for serious professional use. Sledgehammers do their work not only from the additional mass in the head, but also from the way the user swings them with both arms. A 6- or 8-pound sledgehammer is helpful to many users by packing a good punch without weighing so much that it’s unwieldy.
4. Club Hammer: Compact Power in One Hand
Maybe a sledgehammer is overkill. Maybe you’re not trying to break concrete, but you simply need more force than you can get from a typical claw hammer. This is where the handy club hammer comes in. You hold it in a single hand like a claw hammer, but the head weighs around 4 pounds, so it delivers a lot more force than a claw hammer, so it’s good for breaking loose stubborn material.
5. Rubber Mallet: Gentle Force for Delicate Surfaces
Sometimes you need to give a firm but delicate tap, and you need to do so on material like wood or metal that you don’t want to damage. A rubber mallet can help deliver a soft knock that won’t nick paint or dent metal, thanks to the rubberized edge of the mallet.
6. Dead Blow Hammer: Precision Striking Tool
For some precise work, like automotive or farm machinery tasks, it’s sometimes helpful to be able to place an exact amount and direction of force from a hammer onto a particular spot. A dead blow hammer can do this job with minimal bouncing and jostling.
FAQ: Types of Hammers
What are the most common types of hammers?
The most common types include claw hammers, sledgehammers, rubber mallets, framing hammers, dead blow hammers, and club hammers.
What is the best type of hammer for DIY?
A standard 16-ounce claw hammer is ideal for most DIY tasks, while a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer may be better for delicate work.
Can I use a club hammer instead of a sledgehammer?
A club hammer is a good alternative for smaller demolition tasks where a full-size sledgehammer would be too heavy or unwieldy.
Types of Hammers: Final Thoughts
Whether you’re building, demolishing, or doing fine-tuned mechanical work, there’s a hammer designed for the task. By understanding the different types of hammers, you can equip your organized toolbox with the right ones for the job—and work smarter, not harder.
Queen excluders are a common beekeeping tool used to manage where the queen bee can lay her eggs within the hive. By placing a queen excluder between the brood box and the honey supers, beekeepers can prevent the queen from entering the upper boxes, keeping brood out of the honey harvest. While some beekeepers swear by their effectiveness, others argue that queen excluders can disrupt the natural flow of the hive.
So, are queen excluders right for your apiary? Here’s what you need to know.
What Is a Queen Excluder?
When you pull out a beeframe to use for honey harvesting, you prefer those perfectly formed, wall-to-wall frames filled with glorious capped honey. These are the frames that are easy to place in an extractor, or for cutting comb away under the crush-and-strain method.
But things become more complicated when there are eggs, larvae, pupae, and queen cells scattered among your honey! One remedy is to utilize a queen excluder. This is a very simple tool—just a metal or plastic screen that is placed above the brood boxes and below the honey supers. A queen excluder makes use of the different anatomy of a queen bee and a worker bee. The holes in the excluder are sized and shaped with such dimensions that worker bees are able to traverse the excluder, but the queen cannot fit through. As a result, only honey is stored above, while the queen is restricted to laying brood only in the lower boxes.
How a Queen Excluder Works in a Langstroth Hive
In a classic Langstroth beehive, the queen is permitted to travel anywhere she wants to throughout the hive. As she travels unrestricted, she naturally lays eggs in any available cell she has a mind to, in any hive box, high or low. Some queens may tend to lay eggs in the lower sections of the hive, and these boxes are often referred to as “brood boxes”—since that’s where the larvae are raised. The upper portions of the hive are called “supers” or “honey supers” since they’re higher up in the “superstructure.” A lot of beekeepers use smaller boxes up there to keep the weight of all that honey manageable.
But since the queen isn’t restricted in where she may go, she might very well lay eggs—and the colony will subsequently raise larvae—in the supers. She might place a good number of eggs in the brood boxes where they belong, but a portion of her eggs might be up in the supers.
This doesn’t really matter to the bees—they’ll continue to happily store honey and pollen around the eggs. But it might matter to you when it comes time to harvest honey.
Benefits of Using a Queen Excluder
With honey frames that are kept “clean” and easier for harvesting by using a queen excluder, you’ll also likely find fewer worker bees up in the supers when you’re ready to harvest, since they tend to follow where the queen is. And during hive inspections, it’s handy to know that the queen is guaranteed to be down in the lower boxes.
Cleaner honey frames: Prevents eggs, larvae, and pupae from being laid in honey supers, resulting in capped honey that’s easier to extract.
Simplifies hive inspections: Ensures the queen remains in the lower box, making her easier to locate.
Less bee activity in supers: Fewer bees in the honey section during harvest, making the process quicker and less disruptive.
Potential Drawbacks of Queen Excluders
There are a couple of downsides to using a queen excluder.
Worker bees might have to expend extra energy squeezing through the excluder.
Because it takes extra work to squeeze through the excluder, workers might be more likely to try and store honey down among the brood, eventually filling up available laying space. This is called a “honey-bound” hive and could even encourage swarming.
Squeezing through the excluder can also put additional wear and tear on the wings of the worker bees, causing occasional damage.
Sometimes, drones attempt to cross the excluder and get stuck.
Do You Really Need a Queen Excluder?
Some beekeepers swear by them, while others avoid them entirely. Whether or not to use a queen excluder comes down to personal preference and hive conditions. If you’re unsure, consider testing a queen excluder in one hive and observing its impact on honey yield, brood pattern, and overall hive health.
Final Thoughts on Queen Excluders
Queen excluders can be a helpful tool for beehive management, especially if your priority is harvesting clean, brood-free honey. However, they may also introduce new challenges in colony behavior and productivity. Understanding both the benefits and drawbacks will help you make the best decision for your apiary.
The Cayuga Duck is one of the few domestic duck breeds to originate in the U.S. It’s a true American classic!
What Is a Cayuga Duck?
The Cayuga duck is known for shimmering beetle-green colored feathers, a calm temperament and unique black eggs. It is prized ornamentally and practically. Cayugas are excellent layers and produce flavorful meat. They are the only ducks to lay black eggs and make a fun addition to backyard flocks.
Cayuga Duck History: An American Mystery
The Cayuga’s origin is a mystery, as no one knows how they were first developed. A New York miller is credited with introducing the breed after he captured a pair of wild ducks, but the rest of the origin of the breed is unknown.
The Cayuga duck, however, is considered a descendant of the Mallard, as drakes sport a curly tail feather — a physical characteristic only seen in Mallards and their descendants.
The Cayuga duck began to gain popularity when Mr. John S. Clark introduced the breed to the Finger Lakes region of Cayuga County, New York, in 1840. The breed grew in popularity and went on to become the primary duck raised for meat in the U. S. during the second half of the nineteenth century.
It wasn’t until the arrival of the Pekin from China in 1873 that the breed’s popularity decreased.
Today, the Cayuga duck is listed as “Watch” by The Livestock Conservancy, meaning it is a heritage breed that is recovering but still needs support from backyard keepers and breeders.
Unique Egg Production
Cayuga duck females are unique, as they are the only ducks to lay black eggs. In late winter or early spring, when a Cayuga begins to lay, she will lay three to four black eggs. After those initial black eggs, the shell will fade to charcoal gray, then to a pale green or blue before fading to white. This is one of the reasons many backyard duck enthusiasts choose the Cayuga duck.
Egg production: 100–200 large eggs annually
Laying season: Spring and summer (not year-round)
Potential owners should bear in mind that this breed is a seasonal layer and will not produce eggs during the fall or winter months.
Cayuga Duck Meat: Flavorful but Unique
Even though Cayugas are usually kept for egg production and as family pets, they still make a good table bird and serve their original purpose well.
Ducks can be harvested by the age of eight weeks. But for optimal results, butchering should be held off until the ducklings reach twelve weeks of age.
The meat of the Cayuga duck has a good, strong, beefy, flavor. Like all ducks, the Cayuga’s meat is greasier than a chicken or turkey.
Meat flavor: Rich, beefy, and slightly greasy (like most duck)
Processing challenge: Black feathers may require skinning the carcass
The black feathers can make cleaning the carcass more difficult, often requiring the processor to skin the duck. This trait can be a disadvantage, and the breed may not be the best choice if you are raising duck meat as a source of income.
Adobe Stock/knelson20
Striking Plumage and Appearance
The Cayuga duck has luxurious black feathers with a beetle-green sheen. Depending on how sunlight reflects off the feather pigments, the beetle-green sheen can turn to hues of blue and purple.
While the drakes sport black feathers their entire lives, female Cayugas’ black feathering is slowly replaced with white feathers as the duck ages. If a duck lives long enough, its entire head and body will be covered mostly in white feathers. Both drakes and females sport black feet, legs, and bills.
Bill, feet, and legs: Black
Ducklings: Covered in black down, some with yellow chest markings
Cayuga ducklings are covered in black down, with some ducklings having a yellow stripe down their chest. Like their parents, the ducklings also have black feet, legs, and bills.
Size and Lifespan
Classified as a medium weight, the Cayuga tips the scales evenly between five and ten pounds. With drakes averaging eight pounds and females seven pounds.
Drakes: ~8 pounds
Females: ~7 pounds
Lifespan: 5–9 years, up to 12 years with excellent care
The Cayuga Duck has an average lifespan of five to nine years. However, if properly cared for and raised as pets, these black beauties can live an average of eight to twelve years.
Cayuga Duck Health and Care
The Cayuga duck can be prone to external parasites, such as lice and mites, if kept in unsanitary conditions or if not provided with adequate bathing water. Providing them with access to clean swimming water via a kiddie pool or stock tank several times a week should help prevent external parasites from taking up residence on your feathered friends.
Like all ducks, Cayugas can be prone to Botulism, so care should be taken to prevent them from coming into contact with contaminated feed or water.
If fed a well-balanced diet and kept safe from predators, the Cayuga duck should not pose a problem for the novice and is relatively healthy.
Cayuga Duck Temperament
The Cayuga duck has a calm and friendly disposition, making it a good choice for those looking for a friendly pet duck. The breed is known for being independent and does not like to be held for long periods.
Intelligent and quick to learn, the Cayuga duck is capable of learning their name and can be taught to respond to simple commands. These intelligent duckies are problem solvers and can cause mischief if not provided with proper mental and physical stimulation.
Fun Facts About the Cayuga Duck
Due to their calm temperament, the Cayuga duck can be used in herding trials in the placement of Indian Runners.
The Cayuga duck is one of the quietest of the domestic duck breeds, with the females’ quack still being louder than the drakes’.
Did you know? Cayuga ducks are more prone to biting and nibbling toes than other domestic duck breeds.
Final Thoughts: Why Choose the Cayuga Duck?
From black eggs to beetle-green plumage, the Cayuga duck is a true American original. Whether you’re seeking a quiet pet, an eye-catching flock member, or a dual-purpose breed for both eggs and meat, the Cayuga duck delivers on all fronts. With their gentle nature and unique appearance, Cayugas are a delightful and practical choice for any backyard poultry keeper.
🦆 Cayuga Duck FAQ
What are Cayuga ducks used for?
Cayuga ducks are dual-purpose birds raised for both egg production and meat. They lay about 100–150 eggs per year, with eggs starting out black and gradually fading to gray and then white as the season progresses. Their meat is rich and flavorful, making them ideal for dishes like duck confit.
Where did the Cayuga duck originate?
The Cayuga duck is believed to have descended from a pair of wild black ducks caught by a miller in Dutchess County, New York, in 1809. The ducks were domesticated, bred successfully, and eventually made their way to the Finger Lakes region. By 1874, the breed was recognized by the American Poultry Association.
What does a Cayuga duck look like?
Cayugas have striking greenish-black plumage, which may become mottled with white as they age. They feature a black bill (sometimes with olive tips) and black to dusky black feet that may turn slightly orange later in life. Their dark feathering makes plucking difficult, so many people opt to skin Cayugas when processing them for meat.
Do Cayuga ducks need special care?
Cayuga ducks are known for being hardy and cold-tolerant, making them ideal for northern climates. They are easily tamed when hand-raised and can forage for a significant portion of their diet if allowed to roam. Cayugas typically weigh 7 to 8 pounds and are capable breeders. A 2000 ALBC census reported 1,013 breeding Cayugas in North America.
Domestic duck breeds come in many colors and sizes. From tiny Call ducks to large Muscovy ducks, there is a breed to fit all your needs. So whether you raise ducks for eggs, meat or pets, these breeds have you covered. While other breeds of ducks are available in the United States, this article covers the 17 breeds recognized by the American Poultry Association.
The APA divides duck breeds into four classes: bantam, light, medium, and heavy. What weight class you choose largely depends on whether you raise ducks for eggs, meat, exhibition or pets. Let’s explore the breeds in each class to discover the best breed for your backyard.
Bantam Domestic Duck Breeds
Bantam ducks are usually raised for exhibition purposes or as pets. While they lay a medium number of eggs, these ducks are primarily ornamental and have a long lifespan.
Call SHAWN HAMILTON CLIX/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
1. Call Duck: A Tiny Duck with a Big Voice
With their big eyes and rubber duck-style bodies, these delightful ducks have a large following. One of the two smallest duck breeds recognized by the APA, Call ducks were originally bred to fit inside duck hunters’ pockets. With their loud, persistent quack, Call ducks acted as live decoys calling in wild waterfowl for the hunters to shoot.
After live decoys were banned from hunting practices, Call ducks gained popularity for exhibition and as house pets. These ducks have a sweet, endearing personality and love interacting with their favorite human.
As show birds, these ducks should weigh less than 2 pounds. While Calls come in many colors, the APA only recognizes Blue Bibbed, Blue Fawn, Buff, Butterscotch, Chocolate, Gray, Pastel, Snowy and White.
East Indie BONNIE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
2. East Indie: A Striking Black Bantam with Green Iridescence
Often referred to as Black East Indies, this breed resembles a miniature Cayuga. Nicknamed the Labrador, Black East Indies have black plumage with iridescent shades of green, blue and purple. The bill, legs and feet are beetle black, and the eyes are dark brown.
As Black East Indie hens age, white feathers may appear. While an aging drake’s body remains black, it may sport white circles around the eyes. White feathering is a disqualification, so only young East Indies are used for showing purposes.
This breed has yet to gain the popularity many other breeds have due to their poor laying and difficulty breeding, and they’re only kept for exhibition purposes.
Black East Indies are strong fliers and need their wings trimmed to prevent flying. This breed enjoys foraging and swimming. The breed weighs in at 24 to 32 ounces.
3. Mallard: The Iconic Wild-Type Duck in Miniature Form
The largest of the three bantam breeds, Mallards are excellent mothers and fair layers, producing 60 to more than 100 tinted, blue or green eggs annually. Mallards are excellent fliers and will migrate if given the opportunity. Trimming wings and housing in enclosed runs are the best ways to keep these ducks from straying. Despite these characteristics, Mallards revert to captivity quickly and make friendly pets. Mallards weigh between 2 and 4 pounds and come in two recognized colors: Gray and Snowy.
Before acquiring Mallards, check with your local wildlife experts to see if a license is required to own, breed or sell Mallards in your state.
4. Runner: Upright Forager Known for Egg Production
In the lightweight category, Runner ducks run rather than waddle. These delightful ducks are easy to herd and are the first livestock many herding dogs learn to herd before moving on to larger livestock.
Popular in the show ring, Runners come in several recognized colors: Black, Buff, Chocolate, Cumberland Blue, Fawn and White, Gray, Penciled and White.
Runner ducks can be nervous, but make ideal family pets when kept in small numbers and handled frequently. Hens are good layers, averaging one hundred fifty to two hundred white eggs per duck.
Lightweight Domestic Duck Breeds
These breeds are the champion egg layers of the duck world, with drakes and hens weighing in between four and six pounds.
5. Khaki Campbell: The Prolific Egg-Laying Champion
The most prolific egg layer, the Khaki Campbell duck rivals the Leghorn chicken for egg-laying consistency. These lovely ducks are excellent foragers and love to eat insects. They tend to be nervous but can be tamed in small backyard flocks.
Campbells must be fed a complete, well-balanced layer ration to produce a lot of eggs. Drakes are vigorous breeders, so keeping more than one drake per flock isn’t advised. This duck is only recognized in the breed’s original color, Khaki.
Selbe/Flickr
6. Magpie: A Friendly, Dual-Purpose Duck with Unique Markings
Believed to descend from the Huttengem duck, Magpies are a beautiful breed known for their distinct coloring. The breed is recognized in two varieties: Black and White, and Blue and White. Drakes and hens sport white bodies with black or blue caps covering the top of their heads. The back is solid black/ blue from shoulders to wingtips. When viewed from above, the colored marking should resemble a heart.
Magpies are high-strung and startle easily. They can fly small distances when frightened, so their wings should be trimmed to prevent them from straying. Hens are good layers of 200 mainly white eggs annually.
Welsh Harlequin ERIN SYNDER
7. Welsh Harlequin: A Calm Duck That Lays Abundantly
The calmest of the lightweight breeds, Welsh Harlequin hens are good egg layers (averaging 100 to 200 eggs annually) and excellent mothers.
While the Welsh Harlequin can be found in two popular colors, silver and gold, the APA only recognizes the Silver variety. Silver drakes resemble Mallard drakes; hens are silvery white with black penciling and a blue wing speculum. This breed is calm and curious and loves interacting with their favorite human.
8. Crested: A Curious Duck with a Fluffy Feather Pom-Pom
Crested ducks are a middleweight breed and can be easily recognized by the giant pom poms on their heads. This crest of feathers is caused by a mass of fatty tissue growing out of a hole in the duck’s skull. While a duck of any breed can be crested, breeders have carefully selected ducks to breed for this fancy feather-do.
Crested ducks are nervous and can be easily injured or bullied (especially the drakes) by non-crested breeds. Avoid free-ranging, as predators can easily pick off these ducks.
Crested females are decent egg layers, producing an average of 120 creamed-colored eggs annually. The APA recognizes two varieties: Black and White.
Middleweight Domestic Duck Breeds
Medium-weight ducks are the dual-purpose breeds of the duck world. These hardy breeds are less nervous and lay fewer eggs than their lightweight cousins but don’t produce as much meat as the heavyweight class, with hens and drakes averaging 5 to 8 pounds.
Buff LINDA BESTWICK/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
9. Buff: A Calm and Productive Golden-Feathered Duck
Buff ducks are the only poultry breed recognized by the APA to be named after its only color. Buff ducks are excellent table birds and make reasonably good layers, producing an average of 100 white or tinted eggs annually.
Hens and drakes are friendly, docile, alert and intelligent. They don’t have any flying abilities and are ideal ducks to raise in a backyard.
Cayuga DALE CHESTNUT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
10. Cayuga: An All-Black Duck with a Gentle Disposition
The main meat duck in the United States in the mid-19th century, Cayugas are an excellent table bird for those looking for dark meat. With their black feathers, legs, bill and dark brown eyes, these delightful ducks look like giant versions of the Black East Indies.
Cayugas are quiet, hardy birds that love to forage. Hens are good layers, averaging 150 eggs annually. Eggs start black but quickly fade to white throughout the egg-laying season. They only come in a Black variety.
Swedish ANDERS GUSTAVSSON, HTTPS://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY-SA/3.0/
11. Swedish: A Hardy, Blue-Feathered Bird for Meat and Eggs
Swedish ducks are an orchardist’s best friend. These ducks love to forage and are happiest when allowed to free-range in orchards and pastures, trimming weeds and grasses, and feasting on harmful pests. The downside to these ducks is that they can and will fly, so trimming their wings is necessary.
Swedish ducks produce superior-tasting meat and are excellent table birds. Hens are good layers, averaging 150 white or green-tinted eggs annually. Blue is the only standard variety, but you can also find them in black, silver and splashed color patterns.”
Heavyweight Domestic Duck Breeds
The draft horses of the duck world, the heavyweight class, are known for their superb meat, calm and friendly temperaments, and willingness to brood and raise young. Heavyweight breeds average between 7 and 14 pounds.
Aylesbury MARILYN BARBONE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
12. Aylesbury: An English Meat Duck with Snow-White Plumage
Aylesbury ducks look like Pekins with pale bills. Aylesbury’s bills are pink instead of the bright orange bills most Pekins sport. These ducks are calm, love to eat and can easily become overweight. Hens are poor layers, averaging 30 to 100 white or green-tinted eggs annually. White is the only variety.
13. Silver Appleyard: A Beautifully Marked, Dual-Purpose Breed
Often referred to as a Silver Appleyard, this heavyweight duck is easily recognized by its chunky size and pastel Mallard coloring. Appleyards love to eat and can quickly become overweight. Allow ducks access to green pastures and avoid overfeeding to prevent obesity. If fed a good quality layer ration, hens are excellent layers of 150 white eggs annually. Appleyards are excellent mothers and make ideal family pets.
One of the most difficult ducks to breed, Aylesbury ducks need access to swimming water to breed. Never allow breeding stock to become obese.
Muscovy DIETER76/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
14. Muscovy: A Muscular, Quiet Duck That’s Not Technically a True Duck
The only domestic breed recognized by the APA not to originate from the Mallard, Muscovies are an unusual duck. While most ducks quack, Muscovies hiss, croak and coo. Muscovy ducks are also the only ones with bare skin on their faces. This trait makes them susceptible to frostbite in colder climates. These ducks are known for their excellent meat qualities and brooding and mothering skills.
Muscovy ducks are an invasive species and have been banned in several states. Before acquiring Muscovy ducks, check with your local fish and wildlife department to see if it’s legal to own Muscovies in your area. Muscovies come in five recognized colors: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Silver and White.
Pekin ANDERS93/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
15. Pekin: The Classic American Meat Duck
The “king of ducks,” Pekins have earned their popularity in egg and meat production. Pekins are fast growers and reach market size in 7 weeks. As egg layers, Pekin hens average 100 to 200 white or tinted extra-large eggs.
When choosing a family pet, it’s difficult to beat the Pekin. Gregarious, talkative, friendly and fun, these ducks imprint on their human family as ducklings, creating a bond that will last their entire life. Pekins come in one variety: White.
Rouen ERNI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
16. Rouen: A Hefty, Handsome Duck Resembling a Mallard
Bred several hundred years ago in France, Rouens were once popular ducks raised for their superb quality dark meat. These days, this Gray breed is mainly kept for exhibition, egg production (hens lay an average of one hundred and fifty white, blue, or green eggs annually), and pets.
Rouens look like large Mallards with duller markings and come in two varieties: Production and Exhibition. Production Rouens average 6 to 8 pounds, while exhibition Rouens tip the scale between 9 and 12 pounds. Both strains are calm, make good pets and require swimming water for successful breeding.
Saxony GDMATTHEWS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
17. Saxony: A Rare, German-Bred Duck with Warm Coloring
Albert Franz bred Saxony ducks in the 1930s in East Germany to be fast-maturing table birds. While they are still considered a meat breed, Saxony ducks are mostly kept as egg layers and pets in backyard flocks. Hens are excellent egg layers, producing an average of 150 white to blue-green eggs annually.
Drakes and hens have calm, quiet, and gentle personalities and enjoy foraging. Saxony ducks are recognized in one unnamed variety.
Choosing the Right Duck Breed for Your Farm
Whether you’re raising ducks for eggs, meat, show, or companionship, the 17 domestic duck breeds recognized by the APA offer a wide variety of traits to meet your needs. From the hardy Pekin to the ornamental Call, each breed brings something unique to the barnyard. Consider your goals, climate, and available space as you decide which breed—or combination of breeds—is best for your setup. With the right match, your ducks can become a productive and enjoyable part of your homestead for years to come.
🦆 Frequently Asked Questions About Domestic Duck Breeds
Q: What is the best duck breed for eggs?
A: The Khaki Campbell is widely considered one of the best egg-laying duck breeds, producing up to 300 eggs per year. The Runner duck is another strong layer with an upright body shape and an active personality.
Q: Which duck breed is best for meat?
A: Because of its fast growth and mild flavor, the Pekin duck is the most popular meat breed in the United States. The Rouen, also raised for meat, grows more slowly.
Q: Are domestic duck breeds good pets?
A: Yes! Breeds like the Call duck and Cayuga are known for their friendly temperaments and can make great pets with proper care and socialization.
Q: Can different duck breeds live together?
A: Most domestic duck breeds can cohabitate peacefully, especially if introduced properly and given enough space. Just be mindful of size differences and any overly aggressive individuals.
Q: What’s the difference between wild and domestic duck breeds?
A: Domestic ducks are bred for specific traits like temperament, productivity, and appearance. Unlike wild ducks, they generally cannot fly long distances and rely on humans for food and shelter.
This article about domestic duck breeds was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
The average lifespan of a duck varies widely depending on breed, care, and environment.
What Is the Average Lifespan of a Duck?
On average, ducks can live anywhere from 5 to 15 years. Ducks are not as long-lived as geese. The average lifespan of a domestic duck is 10 years or less. As a general rule, the largest breeds of duck have the shortest lifespan. Seldom do they live beyond five to seven years of age.
Duck Lifespan by Breed
Muscovy Ducks
An exception is the Muscovy.This duck might reach a lifespan of between eight and 12 years of age, or more.
Pekin Ducks
The Pekin (probably due to its rapid growth rate as a young bird) normally has a relatively short lifespan, perhaps five years. The first part of a Pekin to fail as it ages is often its legs. I suspect that rapid weight gain in its first year taxes its ability to support itself.
The actual useful lifespan span of a Pekin as an exhibition duck might be only three years. “Useful life” is determined by the length of time it’s useful as a breeder.
Medium & Light Ducks
The average lifespan for a medium or light duck (Cayugas, Blue Swedish, Runners) might exceed that of the largest duck by two or three years.
Keep in mind, however, that ducks kept for egg production might only produce an optimal number of eggs per year for two or three years. Pushing female ducks to produce large numbers of eggs will probably shorten the lifespan of a duck or a member of any breed.
Bantam Ducks
The longest lifespan by a considerable margin is one of the bantam ducks—the Calls and Black East Indies in particular.
A number of mine have lived a decade or more, and one Grey Call female lived 15 years. They also tend to have longer useful lives from a breeder’s standpoint, with males remaining fertile for as long as a decade and some females able to produce eggs for an even longer period, assuming the best of care. Because they carry less weight and don’t experience ultra-fast growth rates, their bodies tend to hold up longer.
🦆 FAQ: How Long Do Ducks Live?
Q: What is the average lifespan of a duck?
A: The average lifespan of a duck is typically 5 to 15 years, depending on breed, care, and whether the duck is kept as a pet or for production.
Q: What duck breed lives the longest?
A: Bantam breeds like the Call duck and Black East Indies can live up to 15 years or more with proper care.
Q: Why do some ducks have shorter lifespans?
A: Factors like rapid growth (as in Pekins), poor diet, or predator exposure can shorten a duck’s life.
Q: Can domestic ducks live longer than wild ducks?
A: Yes, with good care, domestic ducks often outlive their wild counterparts, who face natural threats and limited food.
Of course, a discussion of the lifespan in any breed assumes that the birds are provided with a good diet and appropriate housing and are not overcrowded.
This article about how long ducks live was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
