Once a staple in American backyards, the Plymouth Rock chicken faced a significant decline in numbers, leading to its inclusion on The Livestock Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List.However, as of 2023, the breed has been officially removed from this list, marking a significant conservation success.
The Conservation Priority List
The Livestock Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List is a vital tool used to monitor and promote awareness about the conservation status of heritage livestock and poultry breeds in the United States. Established to help prevent the extinction of historically significant breeds, the list evaluates population numbers, historical and genetic value, geographic distribution, and active breeding programs. It serves as a call to action for farmers, breeders, and conservationists to support vulnerable animal populations that are often overshadowed by commercial breeds.
Note: The Livestock Conservancy has yet to lose a breed on its Conservation Priority List to extinction.
Other Conservation Priority List Successes
A breed’s inclusion on the Conservation Priority List is a call to action that can galvanize breeders, small flock owners and poultry fanciers to do what is necessary to bring the breed back from the brink. This is what happened with the Orpington chicken and Wyandotte chicken breeds, which, a decade ago.
Both of these breeds recovered in population and graduated from the list in 2016. Today, the Orpington and the Wyandotte are two of the most common backyard chicken breeds in the United States.
No clear origin story exists for the Barred Plymouth Rock. Numerous poultry breeders and fanciers claimed to have developed the breed at some point in the mid-1800s. The theory most hold to is that the breed was developed in the 1860s, when Black Javas were crossed with single-comb Dominiques.
The resulting bird was named the Plymouth Rock. It was slightly larger than the Dominique but otherwise indistinguishable from its progenitor.
Both had a barred, or cuckoo, pattern on their plumage, and both had both single- and rose-comb varieties. The two breeds remained interchangeable until an 1870 New York poultry exhibition, at which it was decreed that the single-comb birds would be shown as Plymouth Rocks, while the rose-cushioned birds would be exhibited as Dominiques.
In addition to the Barred Rock (aka the original Plymouth Rock), several other color varieties were soon developed. These include
White Rock
Buff Rock
Silver-Penciled Rock
Partridge Rock
Columbian Rock
Blue Rock
All varieties of Plymouth Rock feature a large, bright-red single comb, red wattles and red earlobes. They have yellow, featherless shanks—the chief distinguishing feature between a Buff Rock and a Buff Orpington—and hens lay approximately 200 large brown eggs per year.
Plymouth Rock females are good broodies and mothers. Chicks reach maturity at the early age of eight to 12 weeks.
Because Plymouth Rock chickens feather early, they are considered cold-hardy birds, although the points of the single comb are susceptible to frostbite. Plymouth Rocks are calm, sweet birds that get along with other breeds and are very affectionate with their humans. Barred Plymouth Rocks are often kept as pet chickens and are used as 4-H showmanship birds due to their cuddly, friendly nature.
Rocks like to range and explore, but are tolerant of confinement. They are an excellent choice for a backyard flock.
This article about the success of the Plymouth Rock chicken recovery from the Livestock Conservancy’s Conservation Priority list was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Knowing how to grow cantaloupes and melons results in the treat of having these delicious fruits available to freshly clip from the vine. They are a great addition to your home garden, but can pose some challenges.
3 Tips for How To Grow Cantaloupes Successfully
1. Cantaloupe seeds can be directly sown into the soil once the soil is at least 65°F during the day and overnight. Use a thermometer to test the temperature of the soil.
2. Cantaloupes require well-drained, fertile soil. Melons do best in loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If you aren’t sure about your soil, a soil test kit can be purchased for around $15 at your local nursery or online. To improve the soil, you may need to add some compost. If your soil isn’t adequate for drainage, consider growing your melons in a raised garden bed or a garden grow bag.
3. Cantaloupes require warm soil. They thrive on hot, sunny summer days. Be sure to plant them in a full-sun location.
Adobe Stock/Ayudia
How To Grow Cantaloupes Via Direct Sowing Seeds
If planting cantaloupe from seed, space the seeds according to the back of the seed packet. Generally, this is three seeds planted 18 to 24 inches apart. Space the rows five to six feet apart. Once seedlings emerge, clip away the weaker of the three and allow the strongest of the three sprouts to grow.
How To Grow Cantaloupes Indoors For a Head Start
Starting cantaloupe seeds inside is another option for how to grow cantaloupes. This method allows you to start growing the plants a couple of weeks sooner than outside. However, melons are very sensitive to root disturbance and tend to do better when directly sown. It’s advised to use biodegradable containers to start the seeds in so that you can plant the container and sprout directly into the ground instead of disturbing the root system by pulling the sprout out of a plastic seed starting container. Soil blocking instead of a biodegradable container is another option that helps avoid root disturbance.
Pollination Is Key To Growing Cantaloupes
Pollination is key for cantaloupes. They produce two flower types: male flowers and perfect flowers (having both male and female parts). The pollination window is only one day, so this means that if you don’t see any pollinators in the garden, you may need to intervene with a paintbrush. To do this, apply some pollen from the male flower to the tip of a clean paintbrush and brush it onto the female flower. This is required for fruit development. If the flowers do not become pollinated or if the pollination is poor, fruit will not develop, or it may develop misshapen. Adding pollinator-friendly flowers into the garden within your vegetable and fruit growing spaces helps as well.
Caring for Cantaloupes
Cantaloupes require two to three inches of water per week. They do best with deep watering a couple of times per week versus more frequent shallow watering. A soaker or drip house is recommended. Try to avoid spraying the vines and leaves as they are prone to powdery mildew.
Remove weeds surrounding the vines. It’s helpful to mulch around the base of the vines to help control weeds, and it will also keep the soil warmer and aid in keeping it from drying out as quickly. Since cantaloupe vines grow up to 10 feet (depending on variety), they are a great option for vertical gardening. We’ve had great luck growing ours over our cattle panel trellis. This keeps great airflow, which also helps fight against powdery mildew.
As the melons get close to ripening, taper off the watering as you want to avoid the melons splitting before harvest. Gradually decreasing the water also helps the fruit ripen and improves the overall flavor.
Harvesting Cantaloupes
Once ready for harvest, you’ll notice the once hard melon has a slight give to it when you push your thumb into the skin. It will effortlessly snap off the vine and you should be able to smell the sweetness my giving it a smell. Cantaloupes will ripen at different times on the same vine, so be sure to keep a watchful eye so that you harvest them before the garden pests get to them.
How to Grow Cantaloupes: Basic Facts
Size: Vines grow up to 10 feet long.
Sunlight requirements: Full sun (A minimum of six hours of direct sunlight is ideal.)
Water requirements: About 1 inch per week
Soil requirements: Average, well-drained garden soil high in organic matter.
When to plant: Direct-seed when soil temperatures reach 65°F at a minimum.
When to harvest: 60 to 80 days from seed, depending on the variety. Harvest when fruits easily slip from the vine and the skin areas between the netting have turned from green to tan.
Produce storage: Store ripe on the counter for two to three days or in the refrigerator for up to one week.
This article about how to grow cantaloupes was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
American-class chickens are perhaps the best-known poultry category in the United States. Consisting of yellow-skinned, dual-purpose birds, American-class chickens tend to be intermediate in temperament, size and foraging skill when compared to small breeds such as the Leghorn and large breeds such as the Brahma. American-class hens lay brown eggs, tend towards broodiness and are good mothers.
The American class includes the Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island Red, Wyandotte and Lamona. These are among the most widely kept breeds in the U.S.
Despite the popularity of American-class chickens, several of its breeds are faring poorly and face extinction. Since the majority of American-class chickens are reared in the U.S., this threat is even more severe, as there are few breeding flocks elsewhere in the world.
The trio of chicken breeds presented here all reside on the Livestock Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List. The Buckeye and Rhode Island White have Watch status and the New Hamphire has threatened status. Raising these birds in a backyard flock can help their conservation status and provide chicken owners with excellent meat and eggs.
Buckeye Chicken
The Buckeye holds a special place in the history of American chickens: it is the first and only North American breed developed by a woman. In the late 19th century, Nettie Metcalf of Warren, Ohio, bred her Barred Plymouth Rock hens to her Buff Cochin rooster, producing chicks that grew into what she considered to be large, lazy birds.
The following year, she bred her Plymouth Rock-Cochin pullets to a Black-Breasted Red Game rooster. This produced offspring with maroon feathers and a black tail. In 1902, Mrs. Metcalf exhibited a pair of her birds at the Cleveland, Ohio, poultry show, calling them “Buckeyes” after the state nickname.
In the 1950s, when poultry production began to be commercialized, the Buckeye fell out of favor and went nearly extinct.
Buckeyes are friendly, active birds that do best when they have room to roam. They are excellent mousers, rarely feather-pick each other, and are cold-hardy with their pea combs. Buckeye hens lay up to 240 eggs per year and are excellent mothers.
Buckeye roosters are known for their wide range of vocalizations, including what sounds very much like a dinosaur-esque roar.
Developed in the early 1900s, the New Hampshire is a relatively new breed of chicken. It is often mistaken for the Rhode Island Red, and rightly so. New Hampshire poultry breeders started selectively breeding Rhode Island Red hens that feathered and matured earlier than other Rhode Island Reds.
Due to the intensity of this selective breeding, a new strain of chicken was developed and was named for the state where the breeding program took place. The APA recognized the New Hampshire in 1935.
The New Hampshire proved to be a pivotal breed for poultry breeders. It was used to create the first commercial broilers, was one of the base breeds utilized for the creation of the Delaware breed of chicken, and is used to create sex-link hybrids. Despite this, the New Hampshire never enjoyed the popularity attained by its parent chicken breed, the Rhode Island Red, and became threatened.
The breed is slowly making a comeback. In 2018, it was proclaimed the official state bird of New Hampshire.
With proper housing, New Hampshires can thrive in both cold and warm weather. New Hampshires tend to compete with and boss around other chicken breeds, so handle your chicks frequently to train them to be gentle and friendly. Roosters can become aggressive during the breeding season and should be kept away from children during this time.
New Hampshire hens tend to have floppy combs. They lay approximately 200 to 220 eggs per year. There are two subtypes of the New Hampshire: the production line and the heritage line. Make certain you confirm what you are adding to your flock!
Rhode Island White Chicken
Developed by John Alonzo Jocoy of Peacedale, Rhode Island, in 1888, the Rhode Island White originated from White Wyandotte, Partridge Cochin, and Rose-Combed White Leghorn stock. Jocoy continued to develop this new breed of bird, developing two separate strains: one with a rose comb and one with a single comb.
In 1922, the rose-comb variety of the Rhode Island White was admitted to the APA. The single-comb variety has yet to be recognized.
The Rhode Island White has never approached the popularity of the Rhode Island Red. The chicken breed’s numbers began to dwindle in the 1960s, leading to its threatened status today. This status can be frankly puzzling, as the Rhode Island White has numerous traits that make it the ideal backyard bird.
They are winter hardy but do well in warm climates. They are friendly, inquisitive birds who enjoy foraging and investigating their surroundings. They also do well in confinement as long as they have plenty of coop space for roosting and nesting. Rhode Island White hens lay between 200 and 250 (or more) jumbo eggs, and their egg production continues throughout the winter months.
As hens don’t go broody, the Rhode Island White pulls its weight as a perfect backyard layer.
American-Class Chickens: Summary
Preserving American-class chickens isn’t just about maintaining beautiful and productive birds—it’s about protecting a vital piece of our agricultural heritage. By choosing to raise breeds like the Buckeye, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island White, you play a direct role in conservation and help ensure these unique chickens continue to thrive for future generations. Whether you’re building a backyard flock or starting a small farm, supporting American-class chickens means standing up for biodiversity, sustainability, and the legacy of U.S. poultry farming.
This article about American-class chickens was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
A foundationless bee frame with comb and honey. (Daniel Johnson)
Bee frames are an integral component of any classic Langstroth bee hive, familiar to beekeepers worldwide. And these frames may be on the minds of beekeepers during the spring, which is often the time when people bring new bee colonies onto their farms. Maybe a beginner beekeeper is starting from scratch with their first hives, or maybe an experienced beekeeper is replacing a hive that was lost over the winter, or simply increasing their efforts. Regardless, bringing in new bees involves constructing or purchasing new hives, and that means obtaining plenty of new frames where those bees can construct their combs. You typically need 8 to 10 frames per hive box, and once those boxes are stacked high during a productive summer, you could easily require upwards of 40 frames per hive.
The frames are where your bees will actually build their combs, raise their brood, and, ultimately, store their honey. The goal in a Langstroth hive is to contain these rows of comb on the frames, which can easily be removed from the hive for examination or harvesting. There are two basic types of frames.
Foundation Frames
Frames with a built-in foundation are probably the most common. These frames can be made of wood or plastic, and they hold a rectangular sheet of plastic or wax, called a foundation. The foundation is often imprinted with a hexagon honeycomb shape pattern. Bees use the pattern as a guide for building their comb.
Foundationless Frames
Alternatively, there are frames with no prebuilt foundation. In this case, the frame is nothing more than that—just a simple rectangle that the bees build the comb on all by themselves with no guide. Sometimes, a thin wire is strung across the frame to give a small amount of structure for the comb. If you’re a woodworker, foundationless frames are pretty easy to make and can save some money.
Bee Frames: Pros & Cons
Which type of frame should you use? There’s no fixed answer, and you may find yourself experimenting with both kinds as you progress in your hobby. Here are a few considerations.
3 Benefits of Foundation Frames
1. Foundation frames are simple and easy. Foundation frames with plastic foundations are durable and simple to use. The bees understand the pattern and generally build their comb in the correct places. However, when foundationless frames are used, bees often build their comb in a pattern that is inconsistent with the frames, which causes a lot of extra work for the beekeeper.
2. Foundation frames are durable. The added stability of the foundation means the comb on these frames is less likely to crumble or fall off when you’re performing inspections.
3. Foundation frames are easy to harvest. They work well in an extractor, whereas the comb on a foundationless frame might fall apart.
4 Benefits of Foundationless Frames
1. Foundationless frames are more natural. With a foundationless frame, the bees make more decisions about the size and placement of their comb and cells. They’re living more closely to the way they would in the wild.
2. Foundationless frames may be cleaner. With no foundation, there are no potential downsides of chemical contamination from plastic, and no recycled wax being put to use the way it might be with a foundation frame. These considerations may be important to you if you’re interested in harvesting wax yourself.
3. Foundationless frames are good for the crush and strain harvesting method. If you’re willing to harvest a little more slowly, foundationless frames work well for collecting wax and honey simultaneously.
4. Foundationless frames are cost-effective. You can save some money this way.
Beginners are often encouraged to start with foundation frames because they’re much easier to use. If you’re interested in the “all-natural” approach of a foundationless frame, you might experiment this way with a hive or two to see how you like it.
Bee Frames Summary
Whether you’re a beginner beekeeper setting up your first hive or a seasoned pro expanding your apiary, selecting the right bee frames is a key decision that affects your bees’ health, productivity, and your own efficiency. Foundation frames offer structure, simplicity, and ease of use—ideal for those just starting out. Meanwhile, foundationless frames provide a more natural environment for your bees and may appeal to those seeking a chemical-free, DIY approach. Whichever route you choose, understanding the pros and cons of each type will help you build strong, productive colonies supported by well-chosen bee frames.
Checking garden tractor oil level with the dipstick. Daniel Johnson
How to check oil levels in tractors and farm machines is not quite as simple as pulling out the dipstick and seeing how much is wet with oil.
Accurately checking the oil level of an engine requires a few preliminary steps to ensure you don’t take an incorrect reading. Too much or too little oil can damage an engine.
Accurate Oil Level Readings
Here are the five steps required to know how to check oil in an engine accurately.
1. Park the machine on a level surface
This is important—don’t accept “pretty level” or “kind of level.” The machine should be parked on a level surface, like a garage floor. If the machine isn’t level, oil can pool toward or away from the dipstick, making it appear as though there’s too much or too little oil in the engine, even if that’s not the case.
2. Make sure the engine is cold
If the engine hasn’t been running for a while, great, you’re ready to check the oil level. If the engine has been running (maybe you started it in order to park the machine on a level surface), let it cool for 10-15 minutes before checking the oil. This will allow oil to gather again in the oil pan and give an accurate reading. Plus, it’s safer for you to work on a cold engine than a hot engine (no need to risk burning yourself).
3. Remove and clean the dipstick
Think about it—if oil can pool toward or away from the dipstick when the machine isn’t level, then even when you’ve parked the machine on a level surface, there may be residual oil clinging to the dipstick above the true oil line. When you remove the dipstick, this residual oil can give a false reading and suggest there’s more oil in the engine than there actually is. Therefore, you should remove the dipstick and wipe away any oil before reinserting it to take an accurate measurement.
4. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted
The dipstick must be fully inserted to secure an accurate reading. Assuming your dipstick screws on and off, you should consult your machine’s instruction manual to determine whether the oil should be checked with the dipstick screwed on tightly or simply inserted into place without screwing. If you aren’t required to screw down the dipstick, it’s helpful to insert the dipstick and then turn it counterclockwise until it settles down with a pop.
5. Check the oil level
If you’ve completed the first four steps, you can now remove the dipstick and check to see where the oil level is positioned. Hopefully, it’s between the “add” and “full” marks, which means you’re good to go. If the oil level is below the “add” mark, you’ll need to add some oil. Be careful not to raise the oil level beyond the “full” mark. If you’re unsure how much to add, proceed slowly and repeatedly check the level with the dipstick. Or, if the oil appears dark or dirty, perhaps it’s time to drain the oil and start fresh with the amount recommended in the machine’s instruction manual.
Congratulations! You have accurately checked the oil level in your engine.
Summary: How to Check Oil
Knowing how to check oil in tractors and farm machinery is essential for engine health and performance. It’s not just about pulling the dipstick—accurate readings require a level surface, a cool engine, a clean dipstick, and proper technique. By following these five simple steps, you can ensure your engine oil is at the right level and avoid costly damage. Whether you’re maintaining a compact tractor or a larger farm machine, understanding how to check oil the right way keeps your equipment running smoothly and efficiently.
This article about how to check oil levels in farm machines was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
In every chicken flock, there’s a hierarchy that dictates social interactions and access to resources. At the pinnacle of this structure stands the “alpha hen,” a dominant female who asserts her leadership through behaviors such as pecking, chasing, and claiming prime nesting spots. Here are the characteristics and implications of alpha hen behavior in backyard flocks.
Case Study: Joan & Daisy
From her earliest days as a chick, Joan was different and just a tad—well, more than a tad—bossy and aggressive. When my wife Elaine and I would place feed in the brooder where we kept our heritage Rhode Island Red chicks, Joan would charge forward with the little cockerels to eat first.
As Joan grew older, she took to rushing her female flock mates, much in the same way the little cockerels would charge at each other and engage in mock battles. By the time she was 12 weeks old, Joan was the undisputed female leader of the flock. It was around that time that this pullet received her name.
We name all our chickens, and Elaine is in charge of giving appellations to the hens, usually picking some sort of television or movie theme. In the television series Mad Men, which is set at an advertising agency in 1960s New York City, Joan is the undisputed head of the secretaries. Tall, busty and red-headed, no female in the firm dares to mess with her or question her regal demeanor … and the males walk lightly around her, too.
Like the fictional Joan, our Joan (in the photo above) is towering, buxom and mahogany-colored, flaunting the reddish brown feathers that purebred Reds do. The two subordinate hens, Peggy and Trudy—also named after Mad Men females—long ago gave up challenging Joan’s alpha status. Even the flock rooster Don, named after the notorious lothario Don Draper in Mad Men, shows proper deference to her and has done so since he and the rest of these birds were chicks together. In other words, Don doesn’t intervene when Joan hands out alpha-style justice to her subordinates.
And by no means is our Don (shown below with Joan and Daisy) a wimp. Twice, Don has stood his ground against a red-tailed hawk, and he has vanquished every rooster that has entered his 3-year-old life. But when Joan runs off other hens when some treat is tossed into the run, Don is quite content to let her have her way.
Bruce Ingram
Of course, flock membership changes over time, and such was the case a year ago. In the adjacent run, Mary, Edith, Violet and Daisy (all named after characters from the television series Downton Abbey) were leading normal chicken lives with their fellow 1-year-old flock mate Al, as in alpha rooster. Daisy, despite her lowly status as a maid in the television show, ruled her fellow females with the proverbial iron beak.
One day, this was explicitly shown when the beta hen, Mary, spent a little too much time in the hens’ favorite nesting box. Daisy entered the henhouse and imperiously sat on Mary’s head, causing the latter to wail in agony. And, predictably, Mary did yield the nesting box.
Later, Mary became broody, and when her eggs were about to hatch, Elaine and I knew that Mary would never be able to fend off Daisy’s potential attacks on her and, more importantly, her chicks. So we moved Daisy, Edith and Violet to the adjoining run.
Don, of course, welcomed the new hens, quickly mating with all of them on their initial morning as part of his enlarged flock. Joan, however, immediately declared war, thrashing them with her wings, chest bumping them and generally making their lives miserable. Indeed, nearly a week passed before Daisy accepted her new role as the flock’s beta, bumping Trudy and Peggy down the pecking order in the process.
The Role of the Alpha Hen in Flock Dynamics
None of this alpha hen behavior is a surprise to Carrie Shinsky of Meyer Hatchery in Polk, Ohio. “The hen at the top of the pecking order is going to claim the choice roosting spot in the henhouse, the favorite nesting box will be regarded as her own, and she will always eat first at the feeder,” Shinsky says. “Any hen who disagrees will get a peck on the head at the very least.”
If a rooster is present, what does he have to say about all this? Basically, Shinsky says, “very little.”
“Some roosters are literally hen-pecked, and the hens will even gang up on him and torment him,” she says. “But even a dominant rooster doesn’t usually interfere with the hens’ pecking order. I’ve seen these same alpha roosters charge humans who have picked up their hens, even if the humans were acting in a nonthreatening way. And nobody, humans or roosters, is going to mess with a broody hen, especially a broody alpha hen.”
Bruce Ingram
Interactions with Roosters and Other Hens
The largest or oldest hen is often the alpha hen, but Shinsky emphasizes that such is not always true.
“Becoming an alpha hen can be more of an attitude thing than a size-related one,” she says. “I have a 1-year-old Welsummer hen who is the alpha in a flock of much larger and older Brahma hens. The Brahmas don’t seem to have any interest in being in charge of anything, but that little Welsummer is all about watching for danger and being the boss.
“Some breeds seem to be predisposed to fiercely want to be alphas. For example, many bantam breeds have that streak in them, and definitely seem to indicate that size doesn’t matter to them. In our large mixed flocks in the grower houses, it tends to be the more commercial-line Golden Buff [which has Rhode Island Red and Leghorn in it] that has a dominant personality over other breeds. We will normally house them only with other larger-bodied birds with similar growth patterns that can compete with them, such as Barred Rocks, Rhode Island Reds and Australorps.”
Alpha Hen Behaviors
I agree with Shinsky that roosters generally don’t seem to interfere with hen intrigue. I can recall only one time when a rooster became embroiled in a hen squabble. The battle for supremacy between two wanna-be alphas had simmered for a fortnight when our rooster at the time broke up a battle between the two combatants. He merely charged both of them until the duo was more interested in avoiding him than fighting each other.
Although some domineering behaviors of the alpha hen are the same with or without a rooster, there are roles she will undertake if no cock is part of the flock. For example, when Elaine and I have raised all-female flocks, we have observed the alphas taking on the traditional rooster role of watching for danger. These hens fed sparingly when they were outside the coop confines, often searching the skies for danger as well as the woods that surround our two chicken runs.
“I’ve seen alpha hens do most of the watching,” Shinsky says. “But I’ve also seen the hens, almost, it seems, instinctively, take turns watching for predators—as in one hen watching for a while and then starting to eat when a different hen stops eating and begins watching. I’ve seen cows in a pasture do the same rotational-type thing.”
Indeed, I’ve observed wild turkeys perform this same rotational observation behavior. After all, chickens and turkeys are closely related as both are gallinaceous birds and in the same family as partridges and pheasants. I’ve also witnessed roosters and hens emitting the alarm note, as has Shinsky, when some aerial or earthbound predator appears.
Although it’s often the dominant rooster or alpha hen that performs most of the vigilant duties, they aren’t necessarily the ones that will emit the high-pitched scream that indicates a predator is on the prowl.
“The chicken that sees the predator first is the one that will make the alarm note,” Shinsky says. “There will probably be a difference in volume and tone between that of a rooster’s and a hen’s alarm note, but it will be no mistaking the sound as a sign of distress. Interestingly, there seems to be slight differences in the screams emitted for a predator from above vs. a four-legged one.”
Those subtle differences in sounds may—or may not—be the triggers to cause chickens to run for cover or flatten themselves to the ground—two common responses to an alarm note. Of course, some rooster-related behaviors do not interest hens in the least.
“I can’t recall ever having heard an alpha hen give the food cluck so that the other birds could come in and eat some treat,” Shinsky says. “The alpha’s attitude is basically that [she] wants that food all for [herself].”
Shinsky adds that mother hens often give the food cluck to their offspring. But, obviously, the dynamic between mother hens and their chicks is different than that between an alpha and her subordinates.
Challenging the Alpha Hen
No dictator, rooster, or alpha hen reigns supreme forever, and inevitably, some upstart challenges the boss hen as well. “The first aggressive act might be the challenger sneaking into the feed before the alpha does,” Shinsky says. “But one of the best indicators that the pecking order might be on the verge of changing is when two hens begin doing the eye stare. They’ll puff up their neck feathers and lock eyes. The chicken that breaks off staring first is the loser. That’s her way of indicating that she has submitted.
“Eye staring is such an important dominance-related issue with chickens that I won’t even make eye contact with breeds or individuals that are high-strung. I’ll just make my way through a run without looking directly at any of them.”
One of the profound joys of raising chickens is observing and learning more about why they behave and interact the way they do. The role of the alpha hen, with or without a rooster, certainly qualifies as a fascinating aspect of chicken behavior.
Alpha Hen: Summary
Understanding the role of the alpha hen is crucial for anyone managing a backyard flock.Recognizing the signs of dominance and the behaviors associated with it can help in maintaining harmony among the birds.While the alpha hen’s assertiveness may sometimes appear aggressive, it’s a natural aspect of chicken social structure that ensures order and stability within the group.By observing and respecting these dynamics, flock owners can foster a healthy and balanced environment for their chickens.
The Golden Comet chicken has many pros for the backyard chicken enthusiast, but some poultry enthusiasts consider this breed to have cons uncommon to many heritage chicken breeds. Here are the ins and outs of these sex link chickens.
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What Makes a Golden Comet?
The Golden Comet chicken is a cross between a New Hampshire Red or Rhode Island Red rooster and a White Plymouth Rock, White Leghorn, or Delaware hen. Upon hatching, these chicks can be sexed by color instead of the traditional vent sexing. Male chicks are yellow at hatching, and females hatch a reddish brown.
Golden Comets are part of the sex link group of chickens. Sex Link chickens get their name because they can be sexed by color upon hatching. Golden Comets are not the only name these chickens go by: Golden Buff, Golden Sex Link, Red Sex Link, Red Star, and Cinnamon Queen are also common names.
8 Golden Comet Chicken Pros
1. Sexing Guarantee
With their sex link characteristics, Golden Comets have a one hundred percent sexing accuracy. Not worrying about unwanted roosters has saved many chicken keepers from headaches and heartaches.
2. Extremely Hardy
Golden Comets are both heat and cold-hardy. Unlike many heritage breeds, these lively hens tolerate summer heat and winter chills without ill effects and will even lay through the hottest summer months.
3. Fewer Health Concerns
Golden Comets do not breed true (more on that later). Since they are consistently bred from new parent birds, they are not at a high risk of developing breed-related illnesses. These healthy hens may also be less likely to develop certain other diseases, including Marek’s disease.
4. A Family Pet
The Golden Comet chicken is a delightful pet. Comets have a calm and relaxing personality and make ideal family companions. While they are known for their quiet nature and affectionate temperaments, Comets have an attitude that sets them apart from other flock members. Hens of this breed love interacting with their owners and will sit on your lap for hours.
When not bonding with their favorite person, Comets can usually be found at the back door begging for a treat. These hens are food-motivated and will do anything for a tasty snack.
5. Peaceful Harmony
Golden Comets are peaceful chickens who dwell with other flock members without a hitch. These hens prefer to stay out of flock squabbles and will move to the opposite side of the run to avoid conflicts.
Their calm and peaceful nature may make them vulnerable to bullying when housed with more aggressive breeds.
Erin Snyder
6. Egg Laying Champions
If there is one thing everyone agrees on about the Golden Comet chicken, it is that you can’t beat its egg production. Golden Comets are egg-laying champions and will easily outperform all your other brown egg layers.
Golden Comets were bred to lay, with each hen laying as many as three hundred extra-large eggs annually. Eggs come in various browns, ranging from tan to deep reddish brown. Some eggs even have speckles similar to those of a Welsummer’s egg.
7. Quiet Disposition
Comets are naturally quiet chickens, which gives them an advantage for backyard flocks with close neighbors. While they do sing the egg song and make other noises, they don’t feel the need to make a fuss all day long.
8. Good Feed-to-Egg Ratio
The Golden Comet chicken is the brown egg-layer answer to the Leghorn. These hens were bred to produce eggs without costing the farmer too much money. With their small bodies, Golden Comets do not need to consume as much feed to lay an egg as heritage breeds. This attribute has made Comets the most popular brown egg layer in backyard flocks and factory farms worldwide.
4 Golden Comet Chicken Cons
1. Doesn’t Breed True
Did you know? The Golden Comet chicken is not considered to be a breed. If you breed a Golden Comet Rooster to a Golden Comet hen, they will not produce offspring that can be sexed by color. Therefore, all sex-link chickens are not recognized as a breed because they do not breed true.
2. High Risk of Cancer
Due to the large number of eggs they produce, Golden Comets are at a higher risk of developing oviduct/ovarian cancer than other breeds. While this is a disadvantage for pet chicken owners, there are ways to help reduce the chances of ovarian cancer in your flock, including diet and avoiding artificial lighting in the coop.
Erin Snyder
3. Shorter Lifespans
Golden Comets may have a shorter lifespan than heritage breeds or bantams. These hens live an average of four to five years, although some individuals can live up to eight years.
4. Strong Fliers
Anyone who has owned a Comet can attest to them being strong fliers. These hens can clear six-foot fences to access a growing garden, visit the neighbors, or whenever they want to escape the run. While this isn’t a huge con, owners must ensure runs are covered so no Comets can escape.
The Golden Comet chicken may not be for everyone, but these delightful hens make an excellent addition to the backyard flock for those looking for a friendly pet or an excellent brown egg producer.
This article about Golden Comet chickens was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
Meat chicken breeds vary in weight and how quickly they reach maturity. Whether you want fast-growing Cornish Rocks, slow-to-mature Jersey Giants or anything in between, these ten meat chicken breeds are sure to please.
#1 Cornish Rock
The Cornish Rock is undoubtedly the most popular of the meat chicken breeds and can reach butcher weight as quickly as six to eight weeks. Their white feathers and fast growth rate make the breed an ideal meat chicken.
Cornish Rock chickens require a specific, high-protein diet to help sustain them and promote fast growth. While they are the most popular of meat-breed chickens, they are also the most likely to suffer health conditions due to their obesity and fast growth.
The average dressed weight for Cornish Rock chickens should fall between five and six pounds.
#2 New Hampshire Red
New Hampshire Red chickens are often thought of as a dual-purpose breed versus meat chickens, but there is a reason that New Hampshire Reds made our meat chicken breeds list.
Bred less than a century ago, the breed was originally bred for meat production. Hens are good layers, but since their main purpose was meat production, many chicken owners prefer to order straight run chicks, keeping the hens for eggs and raising the roosters for meat.
New Hampshire Red chickens reach butchering age at twenty weeks of age and produce a dressed weight of four to five pounds.
#3 Delaware
The Delaware was first created in the twentieth century to be a meat breed. Even though today it is often overlooked as one of the meat chicken breeds, their mostly white feathering, yellow skin and quick maturity make them an iconic meat breed.
Delaware meat has a slightly sweet, succulent taste, with a firm texture. Delawares reach butchering age at about twelve to sixteen weeks of age.
Ideally, pullets should dress out at about five pounds, cockerels about seven.
#4 Jersey Giant
The slowest grower of the breeds listed on the meat chicken breeds, the Jersey Giant is an excellent table bird for those looking for a slow grower with excellent quality meat.
Considered to be a premium meat chicken, the Jersey Giant has dark meat and an excellent lingering taste. In fact, Jersey Giant is the only chicken to produce brown colored meat.
Jersey Giants are slow growers, reaching market weight around the age of nine months. When dressed, a single Jersey Giant can feed a family of four.
Did you know? Jersey Giant capons (a castrated rooster) can reach twenty pounds or more.
#5 Plymouth Rock
One of the most popular chickens kept today, the Plymouth Rock chicken easily earns a spot on the top meat chicken breeds list.
The barred variety of this breed is known for its slightly dark and juicy meat with a tender texture. When comparing the taste of commercially raised Cornish Rock chickens to the Plymouth Rock, the Plymouth Rock wins hands down.
Plymouth Rocks reach butchering weight between sixteen and twenty weeks. While this may seem long when compared to the Cornish Rock, it is believed that the slower growth and longer life contribute to this breed’s superb flavor.
Plymouth Rocks are dual-purpose, so often only the roosters are raised for meat.
#6 Red Ranger
The Red Ranger is at the top of the meat chicken breeds list to excel at reaching market weight quickly, with the ability to thrive on pasture. The breed excels at foraging, helping to cut down on feed costs while still raising good-quality meat birds.
Red Rangers should not be allowed to free range as they can not move as quickly as lighter-weight breeds, so they are more easily picked off by predators. Housing Red Rangers in a chicken tractor allows them the ability to forage while keeping them safe from a predator attack.
Red Ranger meat has a more savory and richer taste than commercial raised chickens. The breed has a quality carcass and desirable meat.
These dual-purpose chickens reach market weight (five to six pounds) between the ages of eleven to thirteen weeks. However, if looking for even better quality meat, allow Red Rangers to reach twenty weeks of age before butchering for a more flavorful meat.
#7 Speckled Sussex
The Speckled Sussex was the official meat chicken of England before the Cornish Rock chicken was created. These days, Sussex isn’t considered to be one of the popular meat chicken breeds, and is usually kept as laying hens and pets.
Speckled Sussex produces a tender and juicy meat. The meat is a pinkish white, unlike other American-raised breeds that produce a slightly darker meat. While the meat has superb quality, they are slow growers and can take up to eight months to reach butchering weight.
Despite not producing the preferred colored meat, Americans overlook the less desirable color for the superb taste of a Sussex.
Speckled Sussex chickens are a dual-purpose breed. Hens are often kept for egg-laying purposes, while roosters are butchered. Sussex reaches market weight between the ages of five and eight months.
#8 Buckeye
The Buckeye chicken is often overlooked when considering meat chicken breeds, but this Ohio native offers the hobby farmer a lot of bang for their buck.
Another dual-purpose chicken, Buckeye hens are good layers while the roosters make excellent table birds.
Buckeye roosters mature fairly quickly for a dual-purpose breed and reach butchering age between three and five months.
The meat of a Buckeye chicken is firm and flavorful. Roosters should reach about seven pounds before being processed, producing a dressed weight of five pounds per rooster.
One thing that sets the Buckeye apart from the other meat chicken breeds is that when a hen has started to decline in egg production, they can be turned into stewing hens.
#9 Naked Neck
Naked Necks are the easiest of the meat chicken breeds to process. Due to their lack of feathering, Naked Necks are easier to pluck than other breeds.
The Naked Neck has an excellent feed-to-meat conversion due to its lack of feathering. With fewer feathers to grow, chicks grow quicker than other dual-purpose breeds.
Naked Necks reach butchering age when roosters reach seven to eight pounds live weight and hens five to six pounds. The meat has a rich flavor and is considered by some enthusiasts to produce the best-tasting meat.
#10 Bresse
The Bresse is the rarest of the meat chicken breeds featured, but this chicken has much to offer meat producers.
Bresse meat has a buttery flavor and tender, juicy texture. The meat has a complex flavor compared to other meat chicken breeds that resembles a slight beefy taste.
The average weight of a dressed Bresse varies depending on the age of the chicken when butchered. Bresse chickens, butchered between the ages of eleven and fourteen weeks, average three pounds. While Bresses harvested at sixteen weeks of age produce a five-pound dressed weight.
Meat Chicken Breeds Summary
No matter your priorities—fast growth, flavor, or dual-purpose utility—there’s a meat chicken breed to fit your needs. With these ten top choices, you can confidently raise birds that will provide delicious, homegrown meat for your table.
This article about meat chicken breeds was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Growing pumpkin varieties in a northern climate with a short growing season can be challenging.
Many pumpkin varieties require 100 days or more to mature. Even if you get 100 or more frost-free days in your area, the temperatures at either end of the season may prove colder than ideal for pumpkins, which thrive in warm weather.
Tips for Extending the Growing Season
Starting seedlings indoors and using row covers can help you extend the season for pumpkins, but these strategies require extra effort and expense. Fortunately, there’s an alternative.
Why Choose Short-Season Pumpkin Varieties
By choosing pumpkin varieties that mature in less than 100 days, you can grow pumpkins of many shapes and sizes within the limits of your northern climate. Just plant them once the late spring frost danger has passed, take good care of them, and watch them thrive.
Here are seven pumpkin varieties for northern gardeners to grow.
1. & 2. Autumn Gold and Autumn Gold Bush
If you’re looking for pumpkin varieties suitable for both carving and eating, check out Autumn Gold and Autumn Gold Bush. Autumn Gold pumpkins are on the smaller side, weighing in at 7-10 pounds, and require 90 days to mature. Autumn Gold Bush pumpkins manage to grow considerably larger (up to 18 pounds) in only a 70-75 range, making them an awesome choice for short growing seasons.
3. & 4. Racer and Racer Plus
The Racer and Racer Plus pumpkin varieties are similar, and both are well-suited for growing in northern gardens. They’re medium-sized and well-rounded orange pumpkins. Racer pumpkins weigh around 12-16 pounds, while Racer Plus pumpkins tip the scales a bit heavier at 14-18 pounds. They both mature in 85 days, so they definitely “race” through the season to beat autumn frosts. Known for their strong green handles, Racer and Racer Plus make good carving pumpkins.
5. Casperita
Casperita is one of the best pumpkin varieties for northern growers because the plants require only 77 days to mature. Even if you experience frost in June or September, you should be able to fit Casperitas into your short growing season. The plants grow upright with minimal spreading, and they produce abundant miniature white pumpkins weighing around one pound. They’re good for both eating and decorating, and they offer some resistance to powdery mildew.
6. Early Giant
It can be challenging to grow giant pumpkin varieties during short northern growing seasons, but Early Giant fits the bill. While you won’t grow pumpkins weighing hundreds of pounds, Early Giant can produce tall orange pumpkins weighing about 25-35 pounds in just 95 days. It makes a good carving pumpkin and boasts some powdery mildew resistance.
7. Jack Be Little
Jack Be Little lives up to its name. These miniature orange pumpkins stay very small: about 2 inches high and 3-4 inches wide. They take longer to grow than Casperita pumpkins (estimates vary from around 85 to 95 days), but if you prefer your pumpkins to be classically orange instead of white, Jack Be Little is an excellent choice. They make adorable decorative pumpkins, and they can also be eaten.
Pumpkin Varieties Summary
Growing pumpkins in northern climates can be tricky due to short growing seasons and cool temperatures. While many traditional varieties require over 100 days to mature, several pumpkin varieties thrive in under 100 days, making them perfect for cooler regions. This article introduces seven fast-maturing pumpkin varieties, including Autumn Gold, Autumn Gold Bush, Racer, Racer Plus, Casperita, Early Giant and Jack Be Little. Each variety offers unique benefits, from carving and decoration to culinary use. With the right choices and a little care, even northern gardeners can enjoy a successful pumpkin harvest.
Tire pressure in your farm vehicle tires is important for safety, performance, and equipment longevity. But what constitutes “suitable,” and how do you ensure your air pressure is correct? Our step-by-step guide will walk you through the process of checking and adding air to farm vehicle tires.
Seasonal and Situational Variations
Tire pressure can vary seasonally, dropping in cold weather and rising in warm weather. Pressure can also drop over time. If the PSI (pound-force per square inch) drops too low, it can have a negative impact on safety and performance.
But of course, not every tire requires the same amount of PSI air pressure. And the same tire can be inflated to different pressure levels depending on the job it’s tackling. There are many factors to consider.
Tools You’ll Need
Fortunately, adding air to tires is a quick and easy job. You’ll need a couple of pieces of equipment (a tire gauge and a tire inflator/air compressor), but that’s a small price to pay for keeping tire pressure in the correct range.
1. Safely park your vehicle/implement
Whether you’re adding air to tractor tires or the tires of a hay baler, be sure the vehicle/implement is safely and securely parked—you don’t want it rolling forward or backward while you’re working. And you’ll want to park in a convenient location for running a tire inflator or air compressor.
2. Determine what the pressure should be
Suitable tire pressure can vary depending on the tasks you’ll be tackling. For example, very high flexion (VF) radial tires can support loads 40% heavier than regular radials when inflated to a particular PSI, or they can carry standard loads at a PSI level 40% lower.
Consult the operating manual for your vehicle or implement for guidelines on suitable tire pressure. You may notice a max PSI rating marked on the tires themselves, but in many cases, the recommended PSI is lower.
3. Remove the cap from the tire valve
Each tire has a valve that allows air to be added or removed. It’s a protrusion from the wheel with a screw-on cap. Often it’s found on the outward-facing side of the wheel, but sometimes you’ll find it on the inward side. Unscrew the cap to access the valve.
4. Check the tire pressure
Using a tire gauge (a tool specifically designed to measure air pressure in tires), check the pressure by pushing the stem of the tire gauge onto the valve. It’s best to gauge pressure while the tire is cold; if it’s warm from use, the air inside may have expanded and raised the pressure.
The tire gauge allows you to determine how much air should be added to bring the pressure into the recommended range.
5. Add air using a tire inflator or air compressor
Using a tire inflator or air compressor (click here for an explanation of the differences), add air to the tire by pushing the end of the air hose onto the tire valve. Be careful to avoid adding too much air—small tires in particular, inflate quickly if you’re using a high-powered device.
6. Frequently check tire pressure
As you add air, frequently stop and use the tire gauge to measure your progress. If you add too much air, push the pin in the center of the tire valve to let some air back out.
7. Reattach the tire valve cap
Once you’ve reached the right pressure, reattach the valve cap. Congratulations! You’ve successfully added air to a farm vehicle tire.
Summary
Maintaining the correct tire pressure in your farm vehicle tires is crucial for safety, performance and equipment longevity. Pressure fluctuates with temperature changes and over time, so it’s important to check and adjust it regularly. What qualifies as “suitable” pressure depends on the type of tire, the load being carried, and the job being done. This article offers a practical, step-by-step guide to checking and inflating your tires using a gauge and an air compressor, helping ensure your pressure is always in the optimal range for your farm work.
