Bend sheet metal with common tools. This comes in handy when you have lots of farm projects that require sheet metal.
On our farm, we’ve got an old outbuilding and a dream to build a party barn. Progress is coming along nicely. We’re looking forward to having a gathering space on the farm that spares or house the added foot traffic.
As part of the project, I’m installing a homemade vent hood. I really wanted to use material found during property cleanup, so I pieced it together using found parts. And that includes scrap metal I came across on the farm.
But this involves bending barn tin metal pieces into shape for the hood, which reminded me of a common question: How do you bend sheet metal without a bending brake?
I have an easy way to bend sheet metal pieces (thin-gauge) and get the job done.
First, place a piece of angle iron against the sawhorse. This will be the bottom part of your “sandwich.”
Next, lay your piece of scrap tin on the angle iron where you want the bend. Place the second piece of angle iron on top of this, then clamp everything down. Make sure your long edge is out when you do this so you can use the weight from the longer edge to your mechanical advantage. (It’s easier to bend a longer length.)
With everything clamped in place, use the screwdriver blade to score the scrap metal along the edge of the angle iron. Run the blade along this track a few times to make a visible line. (You can watch me do this in the video above.)
Once you’ve scored the metal, you can simply bend the metal up along the scored line to make your bend. So long as you have the pieces clamped good, the bend should be pretty easy. If you need a tight edge, you can use a hammer to create that.
Remove the clamps and top angle edge. You can then complete the bend by hand for a clean edge.
Watch the video above to see how I bent found scrap metal for my homemade vent hood.
This article about how to bend sheet metal with common tools was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
City farm animals don’t have to just include chickens and goats: Rabbits, ducks, quail and even cattle can fit on some lots.
Perhaps nothing makes a farm feel more like a farm than animals. They set the pace of the day, and they provide rhythm, activity, manure and (hopefully) income. Animals, one could say, are the life. Of course, as an urban farmer, your animal options may be limited. Space is a factor, and in many areas, there are restrictions on what kinds and how many animals you can have. Here are six animals suited for city life: Maybe you’ll find one that could provide you a little extra income, fertility and, let’s be honest, entertainment.
No. 1 City Farm Animal: Chickens, of Course!
Garrett Heath/Flickr
Chickens are the most obvious and most popular choice for the urban farmer. Relatively quiet animals (the hens are, at least), they produce highly sought-after products—eggs, meat and more chickens—and are becoming increasingly legal in many cities. To boot, chickens also create a nitrogen-heavy manure, which can make an excellent natural fertilizer when mixed into compost or soil. The Cornish Cross, the Red Ranger and the Freedom Ranger are the best backyard meat breeds, whereas there are countless excellent laying breeds: Black Australorp, Easter Egger, Barred Rock, Rhode Island Red, Buff Orpington … the list goes on.
To make a profit from your backyard flock, you can raise them for meat or eggs, but also consider raising them for the chicks. Four- to 6-month-old pullets––that is, hens that are not yet laying––can often go for $10 to $20 each. An urban farmer could make a decent living just selling these young birds to other urban farmers.
2. Rabbits
The Bunny Maker/Flickr
Why more urban farmers don’t consider rabbits city farm animals is a bit of a mystery to me. Although they can be used for fiber or breeding, their most profitable product is often meat and many people may feel intimidated by—or simply not interested in—raising such a cute creature then hauling it off to slaughter. That being said, a young rabbit can get to butcher weight in just 12 weeks, which rivals chickens in terms of speediness.
Raising rabbits takes good organization, but their upkeep is relatively simple, and the upfront investment can be much more reasonable than larger animals: less fencing, smaller pens, less feed, cheaper breeding stocks. Moreover, many rabbits can be produced in a very small area—hundreds of rabbits a year in your average backyard if planned accordingly.
For meat breeds, consider raising Champagne d’Argent, New Zealand, California, Creme d’Argent or a combination. For pet breeding, the Lops, Dutch and Miniatures are very productive and very adorable. Then, of course, if meat and pet rabbits are not your thing, there are angora rabbits, whose hair can be harvested regularly and mixed with other fibers or sold in bulk for blending.
3. Ducks
Kelly Weatherly/Flickr
Depending on your market, free-range duck eggs sell for upwards of $1 a piece right now. In Nashville, Tenn., in 2015, they were spotted for $1.50 each or $18 a dozen. Now, ducks don’t always produce quite as many eggs in a year as your average chicken, but their yields come close. In fact, some people argue that Indian Runner ducks can out-perform chickens in egg-laying.
Ducks also make better garden companions than their poultry cousins, and even the laying varieties produce decent meat and duck fat. Some good, small-scale breeds include the aforementioned Indian Runners, Rouens, Khaki Campbells and Blue Swedish. The classic White Pekin is also an excellent dual-purpose breed. Purchase some decent feed along with a kiddie pool, and you’ll raise happy ducks.
4. Quail
Rachael Brugger
Quail are rather underrated city farm animals. The most common breed, the Bobwhite, can mature in 16 weeks and start laying after 24. Quail can also live in a fairly small area, as long as it’s covered and kept clean. “A 2’ x 2’ x 8’ pen could comfortably house 20 to 25 quail,” Carla Emery notes in her classic book, The Encyclopedia of Country Living (Sasquatch Books, 40th anniversary edition, 2012). Quail will not likely brood their own chicks in captivity, however, so it’s a good idea to have an incubator if you plan to earn a profit from your endeavor. Some quail breeds, such as the Coturnix, can produce four to six eggs a week, which can sell for up to 50 cents an egg, suddenly making quail a profitable fowl for small spaces.
Pygmy goats aren’t just cute, though they are definitely that: They can also make great dairy or meat animals. As city farm animals go, it might be hard to keep the larger dairy and meat breeds due to lack of space, but a pygmy goat requires less of everything, as they are generally 1/2 to 3/4 the size of your average dairy or meat goat.
But that doesn’t mean they are poor milk producers. Nigerian Dwarfs are said to produce anywhere from 1 pint to 2 quarts of milk a day, depending on feed quality and the goat. And although they are small, pygmy goats have been used as meat animals around the world and especially in Africa for many years. In the case of meat production, a castrated male, aka wether, of any dwarf variety would work well. You also have the option of raising dwarf fiber goats, like the Pygora or Nigora, which produce a nice angora wool. Of course, no one is going to begrudge you for just keeping some pygmy goats as fine manure-producing pets either.
City Farm Animals Most Unlikely Candidate:
Dexter Cattle
Atle Grimsby/Flickr
If your property isn’t big enough for cattle, that doesn’t mean it’s not big enough for Dexter cattle. These are naturally small, squat animals that have an excellent feed conversion rate and can double as milk producers. Dexters require about 1/2 an acre of good green grass per animal or 12 to 15 pounds of hay and a little grain each day, so while you might not find Dexter in the city center, they could be good city farm animals for outlying suburbs.
According to Hobby Farms writer Sue Weaver, a grass-fed Dexter steer will grow to finishing weight in 18 to 24 months. Dexter can give 1½ to 3 gallons of 4 percent butterfat milk daily, can produce nearly 500 pounds of meat. Those are pretty attractive numbers for city farm animals.
This article about City Farm Animals was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Backyard chicken keeping isn’t just a trend—it’s a lifestyle. Whether you’re raising hens for fresh eggs, sustainability, or just the simple joy of watching chickens peck around your yard, every setup tells a unique story. From sun-drenched desert runs in Arizona to cozy, rain-ready coops in the Pacific Northwest, there’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to building the perfect space for your flock.
At Roost & Root, we’ve had the privilege of connecting with chicken keepers from every corner of the U.S.—and we’re constantly inspired by the creative, thoughtful ways people turn their backyards into functional, beautiful spaces for their birds. In this article, we’re taking you on a virtual tour of real-life coop setups from across the country. You’ll find practical tips, region-specific advice, and plenty of backyard chicken inspiration to help you design your own oasis—wherever you call home.
Southern: Beating the Heat with Shade & Airflow
Founder Dyan Twining has been a passionate chicken keeper for over 15 years. Her love for chickens sparked the creation of Roost & Root, with the goal of designing coops that make keeping chickens easy and enjoyable – no matter where they live.
Dyan keeps a variety of breeds, which is why the Heritage Chicken Coop | Model 30 is her go-to. Its spacious design allows her to care for multiple breeds with ease. The coop features an Updraft ventilated monitor-style roof, ensuring optimal airflow—especially important in the scorching Central Texas heat. Plus, the roof is crafted from SunTuf Polycarbonate, which blocks 65% of light, protecting her flock from the harsh Texas sun while still letting in just enough light to keep things bright and airy inside.
West Coast: Fresh Eggs, Ocean Air, and Backyard Flair
The Golden State is a golden place to keep chickens, too. In urban areas where backyard space might be limited, it’s important to choose a coop that makes the most of every square foot—while still adding style to your outdoor space. We love how this customer cleverly nestled their Round-Top Stand-Up Coop beside a lemon tree. Not only does it look amazing, but the tree also provides natural shade—perfect for keeping the flock cool during those sunny West Coast summers.
Midwest: Four Seasons & Snow Scenes
Ah, the Midwest—where you get a little bit of everything, from warm summer mornings to snow-covered winter wonderlands. Imagine whipping up a farm-fresh omelet with local produce and eggs from your own backyard hens, or adding those eggs to a classic Midwest casserole. However you use them, your coop needs to be as tough as the weather.
That’s why we love how this customer embraced the season by dressing up their Round-Top Walk-In Coop with a festive evergreen wreath. It’s proof that functionality and charm can go hand-in-hand.
In a region that sees all four seasons—and sometimes all in one week—our cold-weather accessories are a must-have. And with integrated waterers and feeders built into Roost & Root coops, you can keep your flock fed and hydrated for days without having to bundle up and brave the snow every morning. Now that’s cozy.
Northwest: Rainy, Lush, and Full of Life
Chicken keeping in the Northwest means leaning into misty mornings, towering evergreens, and rich, rain-soaked soil. Your hens will love scratching through the damp earth, and you’ll love the peaceful rhythm of caring for them beneath foggy skies.
With the region’s cool, wet climate, ventilation and moisture control are essential—and Roost & Root coops are built to thrive in exactly these conditions. Made from 100% Western Red Cedar, our coops are naturally rot-resistant and rich in protective oils that guard against moisture and decay—all while staying non-toxic for your flock.
This customer outfitted their Backyard XL Chicken Coop Model 2 with our optional Storm Panels, creating a cozy, weather-ready setup. Want even more protection? You can add a roof panel to the extension area for full coverage. And when the clouds part and the sun finally peeks through, those panels are easily removable—just pop them off to give your birds some sunshine and help dry out the ground.
Ready to Create Your Own Chicken Oasis? No matter where you live, Roost & Root has a coop built for your climate—and your style. From cozy backyard setups to spacious walk-in designs, these are just a few of the models we offer. Explore our full collection onlineto find the perfect fit for your flock. We are already in 10,000+ Backyards Across the U.S. Join thousands of happy chicken keepers who trust Roost & Root to make backyard chicken keeping simple, stylish, and fun. We’ve thought of everything, so you don’t have to. Let us help you choose the right coop to make chicken keeping easy, beautiful, and totally you.
Homemade treats for chickens have so many benefits. It keeps your ladies from being bored, and a variation in their diet will boost your birds’ overall health and happiness.
Chickens are omnivorous, meaning that they eat plants and meat. Here, are 14 homemade treats for chickens for your flock that encompass their natural diets. Please remember to always feed these in moderation. Feeding too many treats can have a negative impact on your chickens’ health.
#1 Snack Piñata
The easy-to-make piñata is a great way to give a snack and combat boredom at the same time. Take corn, watermelon or really any vegetable and fruit that you can hang from a rope and hang it up in the coop! Your birds will be entertained all day by these chicken treats, and you’ll get a funny show watching them peck at whatever you have hanging.
In my coop, I normally use a mix of different gourds and sometimes I’ll even hang a head of broccoli. They always have a fun time with it!
#2 Herb Garland
An herb garland can look beautiful in your coop, make it smell better and serve as an impromptu snack bar for your flock! I always have leftover lavender, oregano, chives, mint, parsley and thyme.
I sometimes hang it high above their roosts or low other times to give them a sense of change. I take simple twine, bunch up my herbs and tie them into the twine. I then hang it side to side in their coop.
If I’m going to be gone for a few days, I’ll incorporate some kale and spinach bunches into this as well.
#3 Chicken Cake
I have only made this next treat twice in my entire time of chicken tending. I don’t bake very often, but if you are a baker, this treat will work out well for you and your flock!
A chicken cake can contain all sorts of goodies, and decorating can be a load of fun also! The recipe is as follows.
Ingredients
1⁄2 cup flour
1⁄2 cup applesauce
1⁄2 cup peanut butter
1⁄4 cup oregano
1⁄2 cup chopped apple
1⁄4 cup parsley
1⁄2 cup chopped strawberry
1 teaspoon baking powder
Preparation
Mix your flour, baking powder, peanut butter and applesauce together. After they’re mixed, add the rest of the ingredients. Put it into a cupcake tray with a disposable cupcake tray for easy removal.
Bake at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes, and viola!—a chicken cake!
You can top your chicken treats cake with a multitude of different things. The first time that I made this recipe for my flock, I cooked the entire cake in a cake pan and topped the whole thing with corn and herb leaves. I used carrots to make a face (because what’s a cake without some decoration) and my flock loved it!
Everyone can make these easy chicken treats! You only need peanut butter, raw oats and any other treats you would like to throw in. They’re also great to freeze during the summer to help your birds cool off!
Mix 1⁄2 cup of peanut butter to 1⁄2 cup of oatmeal, and roll into balls. That’s it! I recently have started incorporating mealworms and black sunflower seeds into mine, but any treat can be added.
#5 Chicken Salad
This “salad” will be very different from the salad you’re used to making. For this treat, you need peas, blackberries, blueberries, chopped grapes, spinach, oregano, chopped strawberries, iceberg lettuce and sunflower seeds.
Mix it all in a big bowl and you have a chicken salad for your flock! During summer, I’ll mix in ice cubes also to keep it cool.
#6 Cool-Down Block
The frozen cool-down block is a good treat during summer. Fill any container up with water and add whatever treats your flock likes.
After you have added the chicken treats, freeze it. Giving them this treat during the summer will help them cool down on those very hot summer days while also keeping them entertained. My flock will work on one of these for hours even after it has melted.
#7 Apple Wreath
For this next homemade treat for chickens, you will need to purchase a wire wreath frame. I normally get mine at the Dollar Store. Once you have your wire wreath frame, peel some apples.
Add the apples to the wreath form, and hang in the coop within your birds’ reach. You can also add herbs to the frame with the apples or larger treats. This is a simple, easy and quick treat.
#8 Parfaits
Another quick and easy treat for chickens is a parfait. For my flock, I get a large container of yogurt and add fruit to it. Blackberries and strawberries tend to be my flock’s favorites.
The live bacteria found in yogurt is great for a chicken’s stomach health. But too much of a good thing can cause diarrhea, so feed yogurt in moderation.
#9 Pasta Please
When you’re in a cooking mood with no one to cook for, cook your flock some pasta! During winter, pasta can offer a warm little pick-me-up for a cooped-up flock.
I cook spaghetti or angel hair. Once it’s cooled, I put it in a large bowl and add mealworms, black fly larvae and a mixture of herbs. I serve this only once during winter. Pasta contains a lot of carbohydrates so this is another treat that is best served in moderation.
#10 Molting Fuel
The “molt meatloaf” is perfect for molting season. Many variations are available, but this is the one that I have used (routinely adding ingredients over the years).
Stephanie Thurow
Ingredients
3 eggs
3⁄4 cup milk
2 teaspoons molasses
2⁄3 cup old-fashioned oats
2⁄3 cup layer crumble
1⁄4 cup wheat germ
1⁄4 cup powdered milk
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1⁄4 cup oregano
1⁄4cup cinnamon
1⁄4 cup cayenne pepper
1⁄4 cup dill
1⁄4 cup fresh or dried parsley
1 teaspoon fresh or dried sage
1 1⁄2 pounds ground beef
Preparation
Combine your eggs, milk and molasses first. Add everything but your ground beef, and mix well. Once blended, add your meat. Pat this mixture into a meatloaf pan, and bake at 350 degrees F for 1 hour. Once cooked and cooled completely, serve to your flock!
Banana pancakes are also great homemade treats for chickens. This treat only uses two things: eggs and bananas! You can always add in herbs and mealworms, though, if desired.I love this treat because it freezes well, it’s nutritious and you can warm them up for a winter morning treat.
You’ll need two eggs to one large ripe banana. Blend the eggs and banana together until the texture is smooth. Into an oiled skillet, pour “batter” and cook like you would a regular pancake! You can make a single giant one or several silver-dollar ones to feed sporadically throughout winter.
#12 Nesting Box Herbs
I use a blend of herbs in my nesting boxes and in my litter, but I also use them as homemade treats for chickens on occasion. This blend consists of multiple herbs that are good for chickens, and while I sell it in my store, I’m going to give you the recipe here.
I don’t really use a measuring set. It’s just an even blend of all of these herbs: basil, bee balm, calendula, chamomile, cilantro, comfrey, dill, echinacea, garlic, lavender, marigold, mint, nasturtium, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme and yarrow.
I collect and dry all of these herbs myself, but you can easily purchase them already dried.
#13 Cookies for Chooks
Santa doesn’t have to be the only person that gets cookies! Your flock will love these homemade treats for chickens and they are so easy to make! All you’ll need is 1 cup of peanut butter, 1 cup of flour and 1 egg!
Mix these ingredients together, and make dough balls. Apply to a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 350 degrees F for 6 to 8 minutes. Let them cool fully before you feed to your flock!
#14 Sprout Some Seeds
This next treat requires wheat seeds. You can do this one many different ways. I have seen some chicken keepers sprout them in jars and do a daily wash of water, while others cover a flat planting tray with seeds and sprout them that way.
I normally plant mine because some of them will be transferred to my garden. The sprouts that I don’t use are fed back to my flock and will keep them entertained for hours. The extra dirt gives them something new to scratch in and, with the sprouts mixed in, gives them a treat to look for!
Homemade treats for chickens in moderation are a best practice for any flock. These treats will hopefully help you spoil and help with your flock’s nutritional intake!
This article about homemade treats for chickens originally appeared in the September/October 2022 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Rooster spur injury and other wounds can happen when working with a chicken flock. Chickens might not have the teeth that other domestic animals do, but they can still cause quite a bit of damage, intentionally and unintentionally. As chicken owners, be prepared to handle any of the following injuries.
Shutterstock
Abrasions & Lacerations
Scratches and scrapes are the most common injuries suffered by poultry keepers and can be from a rooster spur injury. Lifting a hen off a nest, moving a bird from or onto a perch, or doing any kind of coop-cleaning or maintenance are instances where your skin can come in contact with your chicken’s talons. Because of the nature of their purpose, for digging and defense, talons are naturally sharp, meaning they can just as easily break human skin as they can the surface of the ground. Given that talons encounter dirt, droppings and other unsanitary surfaces, you should consider a scratch from this source contaminated and treat it accordingly.
While preventing scratches might prove difficult, you can minimize your exposure by wearing long pants, sleeves and gloves while interacting with your flock. You can also reduce the damage your birds’ talons might inflict by inspecting them regularly to check for jagged edges that might trap more grime; these can be trimmed using a pet file or clipper.
Bruises
Although chickens are relatively small animals, larger breeds such as Jersey Giants, Brahmas and Australorps can deliver significant force. The pectoralis and supracoracoideus muscles that control a bird’s flight are extremely strong. One smack from an agitated chicken’s flapping wings can blacken an eye or cheek—or anything—quite easily.
To prevent getting battered, pick up your hen or rooster in a manner that keeps both wings pinned tightly against the bird’s body. Avoid holding your bird anywhere near your face; if you need to examine an injured or sick bird, enlist someone to securely grip your chicken while you examine it.
Descended from the red jungle fowl (Gallus gallus), the domestic chicken comes equipped with two natural weapons that helped it survive in the wild: its spurs. Hens grow only little buds on their feet, but roosters can grow spurs that are extremely long, sharp and dangerous. Spurs are what roosters use against rivals as well as other threats to themselves and their hens. Should one of your boys perceive you as a threat, he will not hesitate to use his spurs against you and this can cause a rooster spur injury.
Ana Hotaling
Because spurs consist of bone covered with a hard keratin sheath, they cannot be cut off without injuring the rooster. You can, however, reduce their size and minimize the potential damage to your flock and to yourself.
Many poultry owners keep an avian first-aid kit handy, stocked with antiseptic, ophthalmologic ointment, veterinary bandages, electrolytes and other items needed to treat an ailing bird. In addition to these items, keep rubbing alcohol, antibacterial ointment, gauze or cotton balls, and bandages on hand for yourself in case you are the one who suffers the barnyard injury. Most importantly, do not hesitate to seek professional medical assistance when your wound is severe, as I did after Davey sank his spurs into me.
This article about rooster spur injury and chicken wounds was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Herbs for baby chicks help promote strong immune systems and provide the necessary nutrition chicks need to grow up healthy and robust. While many herbs are beneficial for chickens, these eight featured plants are some of the best herbs for baby chicks.
Why Feed Herbs?
There are several benefits to introducing herbs to baby chicks. Chicks that are fed herbs early on in life are more likely to eat them throughout their entire life than chickens who were introduced to herbs as adults. These herbs will benefit your flock throughout their lives, and, in some cases, can help slow down certain diseases, including cancer and arthritis.
1. Fennel
Even though it’s not as commonly known as oregano, fennel is one of my go-tos when choosing herbs for baby chicks. Whether you are raising layers, meat birds, or family pets, fennel works to help promote a healthy digestive tract, prevent against heat stroke, and reduce E. coli levels in chickens.
Studies suggest that fennel seed is also anticoccidial (a common condition in young chickens caused by coccidosis).
Fennel Feeding Directions:
Due to their larger size, fennel seeds are hard for baby chicks to ingest. Never feed fennel seed free choice to baby chicks or other young poultry.
Instead, place one teaspoon dried fennel seeds in a cup of boiling water. Steep for ten minutes. Cool to room temperature before diluting into a gallon of water. Refresh tea water every twelve hours.
2. Oregano
When it comes to herbs for baby chicks, oregano can’t be beat. Take a look, and you’ll see for yourself why oregano is the number one herb backyard poultry owners and factory farms reach for.
This powerful immune enhancer is antiviral and believed to guard against avian influenza. Oregano also works to guard against coccidosis, aflatoxins (such as Aspergillus), and mycotoxins and is also a natural antibiotic.
Researchers have also seen lower numbers of deaths in broilers caused by Ascites syndrome when fed oregano versus those raised without this powerful herb.
Feed oregano to baby chicks fresh, dried, or steeped in tea. When feeding fresh or dried herbs to baby chicks, be sure to offer free-choice chick grit to prevent digestive problems.
3. Yarrow
Many people consider yarrow to be a weed or a flowering plant versus an herb, but whatever you want to consider it as, yarrow is one of the best herbs for baby chicks.
Yarrow helps to promote a healthy reproductive system in the brooder, working to clear the sinuses and airways. You may even notice baby chicks sneezing after consuming yarrow as it works to clear up their nasal passages.
Chicks seem to enjoy the taste of both the flowers and the leaves of yarrow and will happily peck at them, free choice.
4. Cilantro
Chicks grow quickly, so it’s important to provide them with the proper nutrition to prevent health problems later in life. If you’re looking for growth-promoting herbs for baby chicks, cilantro is the best option.
Cilantro helps promote bone growth and chick growth and is high in vitamin A to promote strong vision.
Offer cilantro free choice for chicks to peck at. Unlike some humans, most chickens do not mind the taste of cilantro.
Erin Snyder
5. Dill
There is nothing like the smell of fresh dill harvested from the garden, so it’s no wonder that when selecting herbs for baby chicks that they would enjoy it as much as we do. But this delightful aromatic plant doesn’t just smell and taste good; it also has benefits for raising healthy chicks.
Dill works to improve the digestive tract and prevent gastrointestinal (also known as GI) upsets in chickens. This is good news for chicken owners, as seventy percent of a chicken’s immune system is located in the GI tract. So, when you feed dill to chicks and adult chickens, you aren’t just supporting their digestive tract, but also their immune system.
Promoting a healthy immune system in baby chicks will not only help prevent them from succumbing to disease early in life, but it will also help keep them healthier as they age.
Feed dill free choice or steeped in a tea.
6. Tarragon
Tarragon is full of antioxidants and is one of my chicks’ favorite herbs. These antioxidants help to destroy free radicals that could otherwise cause damage to the body, such as cancer.
Cancer is very prevalent in chicken flocks, especially layers, so providing antioxidants to chicks at an early age and throughout their entire lives is one of the best things you can do to keep your future egg layers cancer-free.
Tarragon can be fed free choice.
7. Comfrey
Another herb for chicks that promotes bone growth, comfrey is high in protein and vitamin B12 and also helps to develop healthy muscle and cartilage growth in chicks.
Use caution while feeding comfrey, as it is a very strong herb and should only be offered several times a week in small amounts. Feed comfrey free choice. Do not steep into a tea.
8. Parsley
A popular herb for chickens, it only makes sense that this vitamin-rich herb is also one of the best herbs for baby chicks.
Parsley aids in blood vessel development and is one of the most nutritious herbs you can feed your growing chicks. High in vitamins A, B, and C, this herb helps to promote a healthy immune system.
Parsley is also high in important minerals, including calcium and iron.
Feed parsley free choice or steep it into a nutrient-rich tea.
Herbs for baby chicks are one of the best ways to boost your future flock’s immune systems and produce healthy eggs and meat without breaking the budget. While all these herbs may not be available to you, including even one or two will help keep your chicks healthier for years to come.
This article about herbs for baby chicks was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Save your grass when raising chickens with the tips in this article. You don’t have to have a dying lawn while also free-ranging your girls.
When we were expecting baby chicks, we received plenty of discouraging criticism. One was a warning that chickens would ruin our yard, second to the myth that chickens are dirty. The comments came most often from well-meaning people who still bemoan their mid-century farm chores, when chicken keeping was still part of basic rural survival—far different than what raising chickens can be today.
We are no doubt raising a little rural charm in our backyards, but the mode is different—our chickens are pets, often named, and they’re expected to live for many years. We also provide better healthcare and personal attention. Most importantly, we don’t keep too many of them.
Nonetheless, chickens can do a number on your yard if you’re not careful. Here are some tips for keeping your yard in tact while still enjoying your backyard flock.
1. Avoid Pollution
A small flock of backyard chickens love to eat grass, but it’s impossible for them to eat an entire yard of it. What destroys grass is the high nitrogen content in fresh chicken poop. In the small confines of a chicken run, the swift layering buildup of chicken poop smothers and chemically burns the grass, obliterating anything growing in a new run within a week.
Alternatively, a small amount of chicken poop is an effective fertilizer. Free-ranging a flock evenly distributes chicken poop throughout the yard, making it the cleanest chicken keeping method of all, with no toxic buildup anywhere. Of course, you still need to clean the coop regularly. The solution to pollution is dilution: Consider diluting your chickens with an abundance of space to avoid toxic buildup of waste. Large waste can be picked up and composted, or diluted and washed away with a spray of the hose if you prefer. Small waste deposits can be left alone.
2. Respect The Limits Of Your Space
Free-ranging to avoid chicken waste buildup and toxic spaces doesn’t give us permission to fill our yards with even more chickens. Raising too many chickens in a backyard actually will destroy your yard, just like well-meaning former farm kids will tell you of their own larger-scale farming experiences. Raise too many chickens for your space, and your yard will transform into a predictable farm-shade of brown; but raise just the right amount of chickens for your space, and you’ll still be seeing green.
Chicken ordinances in cities and towns usually allow for raising a specific number of chickens within a certain area of space. Many ordinances require that chickens must be raised in confinement for hygienic purposes. Unfortunately, even in a spacious coop and run, the chicken waste is concentrated in their small living area. If this space is not kept tidy, it can become a toxic and dangerous place for the chickens to live. A toxic, filthy coop breeds disease within a flock, and the coop will become a stinky nuisance for neighbors. While well meaning, ordinances can promote the very problems they’re trying to protect your neighbors from. Chicken spaces do have an odor, but it’s not decidedly bad. However, chicken spaces and yard areas should never stink simply because chickens are living there.
When choosing the number of chickens you will raise, be conservative until you know how a handful of adult hens will affect your coop, your yard and your neighbors. Starting small will give you a sense of how well you can keep up with cleaning their spaces, too. In the long run, this will save your grass.
Save Your Grass by Letting It Grow
Keeping the lawn a little longer will help protect it from the high nitrogen content in chicken waste. Short grass, on the other hand, is already prone to drying out, making it even more vulnerable to chicken destruction.
When you do mow the lawn, consider mulching instead of picking up the clippings. When grass is picked up, chickens will munch on the tasty trimmed grass, scratching at the roots as they do. Because chickens prefer easier work when it’s available, mulched clippings offers instant gratification, and they will kick clippings around as they snack, instead of scratching directly at the ground.
This article about how to Save Your Grass When Raising Chickens was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
DIY planter ideas are something you should consider when starting your spring garden, especially if you live in an urban area.
We have a massive poplar tree in our backyard, and for years, I struggled to get anything to grow beneath it. I tried hydrangeas, hosta, Solomon’s seal, and many other shade-loving perennials and shrubs, but their roots just couldn’t compete with the tree’s.
I decided that if I wanted a garden under the poplar, I was going to have to do it in containers, but purchasing big, decorative pots was way too expensive. So as soon as the weather warmed this spring, I set about making six unique, repurposed planters to line the fence around the tulip poplar. I made them out of old filing cabinets.
DIY Planter Ideas First Step: Source a Filing Cabinet
Jessica Walliser
If you don’t have an unused, metal filing cabinet sitting around at home or the office, ask friends and family if they happen to have one. DIY planter ideas can also be found at:
swap meets
construction recycling centers
flea markets
used office-supply stores
junk yards, scrap yards
Freecycle.org
Craigslist
I found all six of mine at a yard sale for $5 each. Look for cabinets that are free from rust, dents and dings, and be sure the bottom is enclosed.
Steps to Success
Step 1: Remove The Drawers & Drill Drainage Holes
Jessica Walliser
Pull out the drawers and metal liners. If you don’t want to send them to the landfill, the drawers and liners can be sold for scrap. Once the drawers are out, use an electric drill to make six to 10 1/2-inch drainage holes in the back of the filing cabinet. This will be the base of the DIY planter.
Step 2: Paint The Cabinet
Jessica Walliser
Apply two coats of a rust-fighting spray paint to the outside of the cabinet, making sure to cover all edges and corners thoroughly. I chose light green for my planters, but you can make them any color you’d like. Let the kids have at it if you’re looking for something creative. Paint the entire inside of the cabinet with two coats of black, heavy-duty, anti-rust spray paint.
Step 3: Site Your New DIY Planter
If you’re using the planter on a patio or deck, there’s no need to elevate it, but if it will be placed on grass or soil, raise the planter on bricks or rocks to help prevent rust. Try to keep it level, if possible. In my situation, I had to choose between leveling my planters with the fence line or keeping them true-level. I chose true-level.
Step 4: Fill The DIY Planter With Soil
Jessica Walliser
Use a 50/50 blend of compost and high-quality potting soil to fill your new filing cabinet planter. This is by far the most expensive part of making this planter, but you can reduce the cost by purchasing the potting soil in a compressed bale rather than in bags. Toss in a few cups of organic granular fertilizer as you fill the planter. This DIY planter idea is coming along!
Step 5: Plant!
Jessica Walliser
I chose to use a combination of shade-loving annuals and perennials in my planters, but you can fill your new filing cabinet planter with herbs, vegetables, ornamental grasses or whatever you’d like.
Step 6: Maintain Your DIY Planter
Jessica Walliser
The metal will eventually begin to rust, so you’ll need to add a new coat of anti-rust paint to the exterior whenever necessary. As the plants grow, the nutrients in the soil mix will be depleted, so you’ll need to top the planters off with a few inches of fresh compost every year. There’s no need to replace the soil mix if you also mix in 2 to 3 cups of organic granular fertilizer before replanting them every spring.
This article about DIY planter ideas was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Proper tree planting equipment is important whether you’re placing a few stately shade trees or investing in an orchard full of fruit and nut trees. Planting trees requires a lot of tools to get the job done. Arming yourself with the right equipment will ensure the project goes smoothly to give your trees a healthy start.
Whether you’re planting first thing in the spring or waiting until autumn to capitalize on milder weather, this handy checklist of 10 tree planting equipment tools you need for planting trees will help ensure you don’t overlook an important component of the job:
1. Wagon
Trees are heavy, particularly those grown in large pots. You don’t want to carry them far, so having a wagon (either a hand-pulled cart or a larger tractor-pulled trailer) as part of your tree planting equipment will help you bring the trees right to their holes without breaking your back.
Tractor-pulled trailers are also useful for hauling the rest of your tree-planting tools.
When coupled with a tape measure (see below) and graph paper, a GPS receiver can help you plan the most ideal location for every tree, allowing you to envision your orchard at maturity even when the trees are still young.
3. Shovel and Spade
These tools, a shovel for scooping dirt and a spade for breaking the sod and cutting through the soil, will help you quickly and efficiently dig the wide, deep holes needed for tree plantings.
There’s a chance you’ll encounter large rocks while digging the holes. And if you’re like me, once you’ve chosen the perfect location for a tree, you’re bound and determined to dig that hole no matter what obstacles you might encounter.
A digging bar will help you pry heavy boulders out of the ground.
5. Bucket
If you’re shoveling loose soil onto the sod surrounding your holes, it will be difficult to pick it all back up after the fact.
Instead, shovel the soil into a large bucket, which will keep things tidier and save you time when you backfill the hole. A separate bucket can be used to hold rocks.
6. Tape Measure
Rather than eyeballing the depth of your holes and hoping they’re correct, measure the height and width of the rootballs you’ll be planting to make sure your holes are an ideal match. Dig the holes a few inches deeper than necessary, then backfill the bottom with loose soil until the tree sits at the correct height.
This will provide softer soil for the roots to penetrate early on.
7. Utility Knife
It can be difficult to remove large trees from their containers. While I love saving plastic pots for future use, I’ve found the best solution is to slice multiple sides of the pot with a utility knife and remove the tree this way.
The utility knife can also be used to cut through overly crowded roots growing on the outside of the rootball to encourage outward growth.
If your trees are spindly and/or a bit crooked in their growth, staking them with a T-post will support them against the wind, helping them to grow straight until they’re large enough to fend for themselves.
You can also install T-posts around each tree to support a welded wire fence for protection against hungry deer.
9. Fence Post Driver
T-posts aren’t very helpful without a way to install them. A manual or gas-powered fence post driver will quickly drive them into place.
10. Water Jugs or Tanks
Freshly-planted trees need plenty of water, so bring along a supply to give them a long drink after planting.
If you’re within reach of a garden hose, perfect. If not, water jugs or tanks can be hauled by wagon to more remote locations. I use a 35-gallon leg tank to water trees in my orchard, and I’ve been happy with the results.
This article about tree planting equipment was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Pet cows are actually a thing. Not many people think of having a cow as a pet, but it’s fairly easy—and enjoyable.
I love my Highland steer. His name is Frazer, named for Scottish-Canadian explorer, Simon Frazer. He’s an ox-in-training and my best bovine pal. Will we one day eat him? No way!
While farm folk traditionally equate cattle with animated hamburger, increasing legions of rural dwellers view livestock in a brand new light. House rabbits, Pygmy goats, pot-bellied pigs and now cattle: They’re pets, not supper.
“What’ll you do with him?” ask visitors when I say he isn’t abattoir bound. Good questions. What does one do with a pet cow? There are so many avenues to pursue.
Bovine Careers
Consider driving. Frazer’s job is learning to pull a cart. Draft oxen are traditionally hitched in tandem, linked to one another and to the implement they’re hauling by means of a sturdy wooden neck yoke. But an ox (a mature draft steer) can wear a modified horse harness or a sleek single yoke. And a cow can pull a cart or wagon too. The advantages? Trained cattle are less reactive than many horses; it’s generally safe to loop the reins, hunker back and enjoy their leisurely pace. Tough bovine hooves rarely demand expensive shoeing, and an ox-drawn conveyance really turns heads.
Have you ever thought of riding pet cows? While the undisputed king of saddle cattle is the Texas Longhorn steer, any sensible, sizable, sturdily built cow or steer can be trained to ride. According to the International Texas Longhorn Association (ITLA), there are 400-plus saddle-trained Longhorn steers in the United States. Saddle and pulling steer events held at ITLA national and regional shows include an intricate trail event in which steers slop through water, weave through pylons, step over an assortment of obstacles and retain their composure while riders navigate a gate, don a crinkly slicker and unlatch and close a rural mailbox. Impressive? Yes!
A petite Jersey, a Dexter, or a gentle miniature dairy cow can provide your family with better dairy products than money can buy, and unlike a plastic milk jug, Bossy makes a great pet, too.
The soft, woolly undercoat curried from molting Galloway and Highland cattle is a fiber artist’s joy. Spin it and knit the ultimate cushy, warm mittens. A 2,000-pound ox yields a heap of premium hair.
A pet cow can be artificially inseminated, so you needn’t ever own (or visit) a bull. Her calves will be readily salable as pets or breeding stock if her bloodlines are good. Help preserve an old breed or establish a new one—and experience the joys of raising cattle without shipping calves to slaughter.
Pet cows can mow your yard. Some, such as Scottish Highland cattle (one of which is pictured below), also browse—they’ll brush wood lots and grub tree sprouts for you too.
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Training Pet Cows
Cattle are intelligent creatures and they readily perform for food. Traditional reward-based training regimens work well with bovines but clicker training, the method used to teach marine animals at attractions such as Sea World, is their forte. Methods designed for clicker training dogs, horses and llamas are easily modified for cattle. You can even teach your bovine to do tricks!
Bovine Byproducts
Call it cowpie, cow pat, cow flop or plain old cow manure, bovines make a load of fertilizer. Fresh cow flop is 5 percent nitrogen, .2 percent phosphoric acid, and 5 percent potash by weight; dried manure has even higher percentages. And it’s said to be mildly antiseptic. Old-timers soaked athlete’s foot in fresh cowpie, smeared it on their heads to inhibit baldness and caked it on injuries as a drawing poultice. In India, where cows are sacred, dried cow pats provide cooking fuel and are smoldered to repel mosquitoes.
Finding a Mentor
Tame bovines make charming and unusual pets, but they’re not for everyone. Before buying a cow, calf or steer, find a mentor to advise you. County extension agents, veterinarians, experienced oxen drovers, veteran dairymen and beef cattle breeders are excellent choices. Investigate breeds via online search engines. Cattle-oriented mailing lists put new owners in daily touch with helpful cattle keepers from around the globe.
The average pet cow or steer can live 18 years, some live 25 years or more. Adding a bovine beast to your family is a huge commitment. Be sure you really want a cow or steer before you buy one. Here are the barest basics to consider.
Pet Cows 101
Housing for a cow or steer can be as fancy as a box stall in your horse barn or a simple field shelter. You’ll probably need a safe, enclosed area in which to train your animal, either indoors or fenced tall and stout, so it can’t leap out. New owners often assume cows can’t jump, but frightened or irked cattle can vault a standard pipe gate with ease.
Working enclosures should be solidly built of planks, poles or brawny wire cattle panels at least five- or six-feet tall. Equine round-pen panels work well. If your animal is a miniature, a wee youngster or already tame when you get him, standard fencing will suffice. There is a lot to be said for starting with a trained pet bovine or a calf.
Pastures should be perimeter fenced using stout, permanent fence posts supporting cattle panels, tightly stretched wire mesh, five or more strands of barbed wire, or four to six strands of high tensile electric fence. Smooth wire won’t work unless it’s electrified; cattle will squeeze right through. Cross fencing needn’t be as elaborate unless you’re fencing cattle away from something they mustn’t eat. Cattle can pasture with other species; each will dine on plants the other leaves. The exception: some horses harry cattle. If your horse and pet cow can’t get along, separate pastures are probably a must.
Cattle require a lot of drinking water. An adult cow will down around 30 gallons a day, more if it’s hot or she’s lactating. She won’t drink as much as she needs from a soiled or scummy water source and probably won’t break ice in a waterer that’s frozen over. Clean water served lukewarm when the mercury plummets and cool when it soars will encourage her to imbibe all she needs. Cattle appreciate pond access in the summertime. They’ll wile away sultry days up to their chins in cool water and drink from the pond as well.
A 2,200 pound Minnesota-based riding steer, a Hoosier farmer’s miniature Zebu pasture ornament and a Georgia family’s milking Jersey all require radically different diets, vaccinations and deworming schedules.
While book and online resources can spell out the basics of cattlekeeping, always discuss important points with your county agricultural extension agent and a cattle-savvy local veterinarian before bringing Bossy home.
Pet Cow Care
Cattle are ruminants. Their four-compartment stomachs allow them to eat their food then hunker down, bring it back up as a cud and rechew it at leisure. Unless you (or a calf) milk your cow, it’ll probably do best on a predominately hay and pasture diet. No matter which local forage you choose for your cow or steer, it should be high quality, dust-free, and fed from a hayrack or a clean, dry spot on the ground. Cattle and moldy feed spell disaster; never feed moldy hay or musty, sour grain to your cow or steer.
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Cattle attract flies. The worst are horn and face flies, but deer flies, horse flies, gnats and black flies are attracted to cattle too. Droves of biting flies cause cattle to rub, race and fret, so control is a must. Insecticide-laced ear tags, oral larvicides, pour-ons, sprays and dust bags or back scrubbers are all viable options; but because pesky horn flies develop resistance to the chemicals used in these controls, it’s important to rotate organophosphate and pyrethroid products every few years. Face flies spread pinkeye, a highly contagious bacterial infection that can lead to blindness unless aggressively treated. Fortunately, most horn fly control products also repel face flies and other bloodsucking pests.
Well-nourished pet cows kept in dry, tidy surroundings don’t require a lot of coat care but you’ll need a cattle comb to groom your shedding beast and chase caked-on mud and muck when it accumulates. Most cattle appreciate being hosed with cool water on hot, steamy summer days. Expect to hand pick burrs, tiny sticks and other debris from long-coated breeds and from forelocks and tail swishes.
Hooves need trimming every few months. Hire a professional who will load your animal in a mobile chute and use power tools to shape his hooves, or teach your pet to pick up his feet and do the job with simple hand tools yourself. Visit Purdue University’s “Trimming Hooves” page online to see how it’s properly done.
Continually sloppy footing in barns, cow lots or pastures leads to foot rot, a nasty bacterial malady that thrives in mucky manure and invades via scratched or abraded feet. Untreated foot rot can cause permanent disability, and is extremely painful to the animal. Keep your cow or steer out of mud.
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All cattle are strong, and unhandled ones are reactive. It takes a certain amount of strength and agility to tame and train a bovine. Horned cattle can be especially dangerous; beginners shouldn’t buy a wild, snorty cow or steer with horns. Older cattle can be dehorned but it’s a grisly, agonizing process. Choose a calf or a tame adult member of horned breeds, or opt for a dehorned or naturally polled cow or steer.
Buy a Better Bovine
Many first-time buyers choose a calf, and this is a logical choice. However, because calves are more susceptible to certain diseases and stresses than older cattle, buying a baby is a process fraught with danger. Discuss calf-rearing issues with your county extension agent or veterinarian before buying a tiny baby—you must be fully prepared and in the know before you do.
Any calf should be purchased from a reliable source. “Don’t buy a calf from a sale barn,” says dairy farmer Lori Armstrong of Thayer, Mo. “Cattle at a sale might look perfectly healthy but you can bring home a lot of disease that way. For a pet I’d buy a bucket calf (bottle baby) from a dairy farm; it will look to you as mama. It’s not long before a calf is big enough to start dragging you around, but a bucket calf is smaller so it’s easy to train. I’d recommend a Jersey. Jerseys are naturally social; they make really good family cows.”
Another option: Buy a trained or partially trained weanling calf or older heifer, cow or steer from a reputable beef breeder. Nick and Anneke Self of Bent Creek Farm near Greenville, Tenn., bred our boy Frazer. A husky 10-month-old calf when he joined us, Frazer was already gentled and he led and stood tied like a pro. “We take our cattle to exhibitions,” explains Anneke, “so we work with our calves, we teach them basic things, the sort of things Frazer knows. Quite a few Highland breeders do that. It wouldn’t be hard to find a handled Highland, even an adult, if [you] check around.”
Before choosing a breed, consider what you plan to do with your pet. Ornamental organic lawnmower? Any breed that intrigues you will do.
But if you have your heart set on a riding steer, a Longhorn or Highland makes more sense than a Jersey or Zebu. An Angus family milk cow? Get a Guernsey instead! Any steer makes a fine ox, but for massive pulling power try a Chianina. And for compact cuteness, opt for a Dexter or a miniature Longhorn. If you want to win ribbons, choose a breed that’s popular in your locale.
Availability of pet cows may be an issue. Most miniature breeds and some heritage and imported breeds are in demand, as well as breeds listed on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy’s endangered list.
Evaluate your climate and facilities. While they’ll adapt, Highlands in Florida and Brahmans in northern Minnesota are definitely out of their element. Small acreage? Think Dexters, Jerseys, Guernseys and miniatures when space is at a premium.
Which sex? Cows and steers make fine pets; for the casual cattle keeper, bulls do not. Working cattle are traditionally castrated males, but cows can pull carts and pack riders too.
Finally, do you recognize cattle ailments, afflictions and conformation anomalies when you see them? Do you know what to ask about vaccinations, breeding stock bloodlines, and other nuances of cattle selling? If not, ask someone who does to help evaluate potential purchases. Don’t choose unwisely because you’re unaware.
So go ahead, have pet cows—or a heifer, steer, ox or calf—and enjoy the ultimate hobby-farm pet.
This article about Keeping Pet Cows on a Hobby Farm was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
