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Farm & Garden

Native Bee Habitat: Fall Tips to Help Pollinators Survive Winter

western leaf cutter in a native bee habitat
Adobe Stock/JJ Gouin

Native bee habitat protection is an important step toward keeping these helpful pollinators thriving from season to season. When winter approaches, many honey bee farms work to help their hives survive the cold and overwinter safely by providing additional food sources and keeping humidity in control. But while honey bees get much of the attention, there are actual steps you can take in the fall to help native bees make it through the winter as well, so that they’ll be ready to pollinate your garden next spring.

Encouraging the presence of native bees is something beneficial to all gardeners. You can help support the existence of these helpful common pollinators, including:

  • Bumblebees
  • Mason bees
  • Carpenter bees
  • Leafcutter bees
  • Miner bees
  • Sweat bees

Leave the Leaves to Protect Native Bee Habitat

When fall colors fade and the leaves fall to the ground, the first impulse is often to break out the leaf blower and rakes for yard cleanup. While this no doubt makes for a nice-looking lawn—and the leaves can even be used for mulch—it may also be beneficial to “leave the leaves” as is until spring. Native bees will often use leaf litter as shelter, and providing the insulating leaves until after the bees have reawakened in the spring can help avoid disrupting their hibernation.

Plant Stalks Provide Shelter for Native Bees

It’s nice to get your vegetable garden and flower garden beds cleared out before winter. After a hard frost, the amount of brown, faded plant vegetation is considerable, and cleaning this out in the fall gets you a nice head start before next spring. But for the sake of native bees, you might consider leaving some plants intact through the winter as bee shelters:

  • Sunflowers — Hollow regions in the dead stalks can be useful winter shelter for cavity-seeking native bees. Plus, the sunflower stalks themselves can make visual interest in the garden during the dormant season. Chickadees and other birds will also appreciate feeding on the spent sunflower heads.
  • Goldenrod — You might not purposely grow this attractive plant/weed, but leaving the thick stalks of goldenrod can also be a nice way to provide native bees with a hollow area for burrowing.
  • Coneflower — Another excellent option to leave intact; it provides winter visual interest and a hollow area for native bees to shelter in.

Build a Bee House to Expand Native Bee Habitat

This is a fun project that can be as elaborate and decorative or simple and utilitarian as you like. You can create a bee house that may attract native bees by drilling holes of various sizes into a block of wood—or even a stump—and leaving it in the garden. Alternatively, you could create a bee shelter containing numerous paper “straws” of various diameters and place them in a homemade “house” of your own design. Each bee will choose the diameter hole suitable for them. These can be great craft projects!

Supporting native bee habitat through the fall and winter ensures these essential pollinators return strong in spring. A few small changes in your yard—like leaving leaves, stalks, or building a bee house—can make a big difference for native bee survival.

This article about native bee habitat was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Farm & Garden

Fuel Efficiency: 10 Ways to Improve Farm Vehicle Economy

putting fuel in a vehicle for fuel efficiency
Adobe Stock/FotoAndalucia

Fuel efficiency improvement for farm vehicles like tractors, trucks, ATVs, and UTVs is a smart move on many levels. You’ll get more work accomplished with each tank of fuel. You’ll purchase fuel less often. You’ll decrease the emissions required for each job. Saving time, dollars, and emissions is a pretty good deal.

But how do you improve farm vehicle fuel efficiency? It’s easier than you think. Here are 10 ways to improve farm vehicle fuel efficiency.

1. Keep Air Filters Clean

A dirty air filter reduces fuel efficiency, causing the engine to consume more fuel than it would otherwise. Regularly cleaning and/or replacing air filters (check the vehicle’s manual for guidance) is an important regular maintenance task.

2. Replace Spark Plugs

Unlike some engine parts, the spark plugs in a gasoline engine don’t require regular attention. But they can wear out over time, which harms fuel economy. If your engine runs rough or has trouble starting, try replacing the spark plugs and see if you get a performance boost.

replacing spark plug on tractor to increase fuel efficiency
Keeler Johnson

3. Regularly Change Engine Oil

Be sure to follow the recommended schedule for engine oil changes. Regularly refreshing the engine oil (and changing the oil filter) can improve fuel economy.

changing tractor oil to improve fuel efficiency
Daniel Johnson

4. Opt for Diesel Engines

All else being equal, diesel engines have better fuel economy than gasoline engines. There’s also more energy in a gallon of diesel than a gallon of gas. If you’ll be putting a lot of miles on a particular vehicle (perhaps your workhorse tractor or a farm truck), opting for a vehicle with a diesel engine can be a sound strategy.

5. If Using Gas, Aim for Electronic Fuel Injection

If you’re considering a vehicle with a gas engine, get one with electronic fuel injection if possible. Electronic fuel injection offers a wealth of benefits, including improved fuel economy.

6. Keep Tires Properly Inflated

Care should be taken to ensure vehicle tires are inflated to the correct PSI (pound-force per square inch). Underinflated tires reduce fuel economy. Check tire PSI regularly, particularly as winter approaches and temperatures decrease—the shift in temperature can cause a drop in tire PSI.

7. Opt for Radial Tires

Old-fashioned bias tires might be tough, but radial tires are the king when it comes to traction, especially if you opt for increased flexion (IF) or very high flexion (VF) radials. IF tires can carry the same load as regular radial tires with 20% lower air pressure, VF tires can carry the same load at 40 percent lower air pressure. The decreased PSI allows more of the tire’s tread to contact the ground, improving traction and fuel economy.

8. Go with Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles

Speaking of traction, four-wheel drive decreases wheel slippage compared to two-wheel drive when performing hard farm work and negotiating challenging terrain. The result? When the going gets tough, a four-wheel drive tractor or UTV will get better fuel economy than one with two-wheel drive.

tractor wheel
Daniel Johnson

9. Run Engines On Low Throttle When Possible

An engine doesn’t have to run at full throttle all the time. If you’re simply driving from one spot on the farm to another, or towing a lightweight trailer that doesn’t require full power, pull back on the throttle and save some fuel.

10. Shut Off Engines When Not In Use

Related to tip nine, go ahead and shut off your engine if you’re pausing work for a meaningful length of time. If you’re doing cleanup and stop to fill your trailer with a “small” load of branches or grass rakings, reconsider leaving the engine idling. Those small loads can take longer than you think to pick up, and all the while you’re consuming fuel.

By using a combination of these 10 tips, you can meaningfully improve fuel economy and reap the benefits.

This article about farm vehicle fuel efficiency was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Uncategorized

Diseases in Chickens: Autumn Health Risks

diseases in chickens can present themselves like this chicken standing still and hunched in a grassy area with other chickens nearby
Erika Norris/Adobe Stock

Diseases in chickens can occur anytime, but some diseases are more prevalent during the autumn months. Learn how to diagnose, treat, and prevent these five common autumn diseases in chickens.

#1 Bumblefoot: A Common Disease in Chickens

Bumblefoot is a staph infection that occurs on the bottom of a chicken’s foot. One of the easiest diseases in chickens to diagnose, bumblefoot can be deceptive, as at first it may appear as only a little dark brown or black colored scale. When left untreated, it can quickly grow into a nasty infection. Clinical signs include:

  • Black or brown scabs on the bottom of a chicken’s feet
  • Decrease in appetite
  • Limping or stiffness when walking
  • Refusing to engage in normal behaviors
  • Swollen toes and foot

How to Treat This Disease in Chickens

Bumblefoot may be easy to diagnose, but it isn’t always easy to treat. While it can be treated successfully at home, veterinary assistance will be needed if the infection does not respond well to home remedies.

To treat at home, gently scrape the scab off, before soaking the foot in Epsom salt water for about ten minutes.

Next, wearing a pair of clean disposable gloves, squeeze the foot gently around the infection. This causes the infection to become loose and may even cause it to pop out. Flush the infected area with witch hazel before applying chicken-safe, antibacterial ointment.

Wrap the foot with gauze before covering with vet wrap. Change the bandages daily, applying witch hazel and antibiotic ointment to the infected area each time.

Repeat soakings every two to three days. If the infection does not respond to treatment, take your chicken to a vet who has experience treating diseases in chickens.

Preventing Bumblefoot Disease in Chickens

Bumblefoot can be caused by a cut on the bottom of the foot, often occurring from spending too much time on the perch, rocky terrain, or a splinter. The cut allows manure and other bacteria to enter the foot, causing bacteria to grow.

Bumblefoot is more prevalent in fall, due to the wet and muddy conditions in the run. Prevention tips include:

  • Feed a proper diet enriched with vitamin A.
  • Remove sharp stones or splintering wood from areas where chickens can access them
  • Routinely check the bottom of your chickens’ feet for signs of bumblefoot
  • Spread straw (not hay) to cover the ground in the run to prevent chickens from inhabiting wet and muddy conditions

#2 Internal Parasites as Diseases in Chickens

One of the most commonly discussed diseases in chickens is internal parasites. While this disease is not likely to occur frequently, knowing how to diagnose, prevent, and treat internal parasites can save a lot of wear and tear on your flock’s intestines.

Cooler temperatures, combined with the increased wetness in the ground, make autumn the perfect time for internal parasites to strike. Clinical signs include:

  • Anemia
  • Decreased appetite
  • Decreased egg production
  • Diarrhea (may include blood or worms)
  • Lethargy
  • Pale comb and wattles
  • Poor growth rate
  • Weight loss

Diagnosing Internal Parasites

Fewer diseases in chickens are as easy to diagnose as internal parasites. However, veterinarian help is required, even if you’re positive that your chickens are suffering from internal parasites.

Provide your vet with a fresh stool sample from several flock members to ensure an accurate test. The vet will look at the poop under a microscope to properly identify what kind of parasites your flock may be suffering from.

While it may be tempting to skip the vet and try an over-the-counter dewormer, this isn’t the best plan, as most dewormers do not treat all internal parasites. Without knowing what parasites your flock has, it’s impossible to know how to treat them.

Preventing Internal Parasites in Your Flock

Practicing good husbandry skills is the best way to prevent internal parasites from taking up residence in your flock. Prevention tips include:

  • Avoid Overcrowding
  • House chickens separately from other poultry
  • Keep water clean and free of manure
  • Routine stool samples from your flock twice a year, in spring and fall
  • Routinely remove manure and soiled bedding from coops and runs

When possible, prevent chickens from consuming large amounts of bugs, including ants, beetles, earthworms, pill bugs, slugs, and snails.

#3 Respiratory Conditions Among Diseases in Chickens

Respiratory diseases in chickens are more common in the fall and winter months, as chickens spend more time inside the coop. In most cases, respiratory problems can be prevented, but before we get into treatment and prevention, let’s take a look at some common respiratory symptoms.

  • Clogged nostrils/nares
  • Coughing
  • Darkening combs and wattles (from lack of oxygen)
  • Decrease in Appetite
  • Lethargy
  • Ruffled feathers
  • Sneezing
  • Watery or bubbly eyes
  • Wheezing

Treating Respiratory Diseases in Chickens

Respiratory conditions can quickly spread through the flock and can often be deadly if not treated immediately. If you suspect one or more of your flock may be suffering from a respiratory problem, take them to a qualified poultry veterinarian.

A poultry vet will be able to test your flock to rule out possible contagious diseases in chickens before prescribing medications for the sick hen(s). Bear in mind that some chickens recovering from respiratory conditions may need to move temporarily inside the house until they recover, so be sure to have supplies on hand and a safe place for your hen to stay during recovery.

Preventing Respiratory Diseases in Chickens

Prevention is key to preventing respiratory conditions in your flock. Prevention tips include:

  • Avoid using moldy bedding in the coop and run
  • Allow chickens access to fresh air whenever possible
  • House flock in a well-ventilated coop
  • Keep the henhouse clean and as dust free as possible
  • Never house chickens in an overcrowded coop and run
  • Never feed chickens moldy food
  • Routinely clean coop to keep ammonia levels down

Support respiratory health with herbs such as bee balm, echinacea, mint, oregano, sage, and thyme.

#4 External Parasites: Another Disease in Chickens

External parasites can appear anytime, but they are most prevalent in colder months. Northern fowl mites and poultry lice can inhabit your coop without you even knowing, causing destruction to your flocks’ feathers and sucking their blood. Symptoms to look for include:

  • Chewed feathers (lice)
  • Chickens with pale combs and wattles (lice and mites)
  • Missing feathers near the vent (mites)
  • Itchiness and restlessness (mites and lice)
  • Tiny dark red bugs on chickens or eggs (mites)
  • Clusters of white colored eggs at the base of feathers (lice)
  • Straw-colored bugs on chickens (lice)

External Parasite Treatment Plan

Before we discuss treatment, be sure to know that while you may feel itchy or even find a stray bug crawling on your clothes, these pests can not live on or harm humans.

Lice and mites can be controlled by allowing routine dust bathing even during the fall and winter months. In northern climates, where the ground freezes, provide a dustbathing area in a kiddie pool or sandbox (with all the sand removed.) Allow chickens to dustbath outside (not the coop) to prevent respiratory diseases in chickens from occurring.

Check chickens monthly for external parasites. If parasites are found, treat them with a poultry-safe dusting powder

Mite Tip: The best time to check for mites in the coop is early morning. After all your chickens have left the perch for the day, slide a piece of white paper along the underside of the perch. Check the paper carefully. If red (blood) spots are seen, mites are present.

Prevention Tips

Mites and lice can be controlled by providing your flock with access to a dust bathing area several times a week. Check chickens (especially heavy-feathered breeds, roosters, and older hens) monthly for signs of external parasites.

Routinely removing all bedding material from the coop will also go a long way in helping your flock stay parasite-free.

#5 Coccidiosis: A Frequent Disease in Chickens

One of the most common diseases in chickens, coccidiosis can spring up in a flock overnight. Coccidia (the protozoan parasite causing coccidiosis) is present in every chicken flock in low numbers, but when problems arise, these opportunistic parasites can wreak havoc on your flock. Common symptoms of coccidiosis include:

  • Diarrhea (blood may be visible)
  • Decreased feed and water intake
  • Lethargy
  • Pale combs and wattles
  • Standing hunched up (penguin stance) with ruffled feathers

Treating Coccidiosis

Treating coccidiosis is very similar to treating other internal parasites. Start by collecting fresh stool samples from several flock members and having a vet examine it under a microscope.

If coccidiosis is a problem, a vet will prescribe medication to the flock. Another stool sample should be examined four weeks after treatment ends to ensure the problem has entirely cleared up.

During the outbreak, be sure to keep your flock hydrated and fed by offering soft, hydrating treats. Encourage your flock to drink, as medications are often mixed into water.

Prevention

Like all diseases in chickens, preventing coccidiosis starts with proper nutrition and good husbandry skills. Other preventive tips include:

  • Avoid overcrowding
  • Avoid letting chickens out in a wet or muddy run
  • Provide rotational pastures/run to prevent coccidiosis from building up
  • Quarantine new flock members for thirty days before introducing them to your flock
  • Routinely cleaning the coop

Summary of Common Diseases in Chickens

Diseases in chickens can spring up overnight, but learning how to diagnose, treat, and prevent these five common autumn ailments can help your chickens stay healthier year-round.

This article about diseases in chickens was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens: Causes & Prevention

leghorn chickens pictured grazing are susceptible to fatty liver disease in chickens
Adobe Stock/JDM Photo

Fatty liver disease in chickens can sneak up on flock owners, as this disease attacks hens silently with no side effects until it’s usually too late. Like most backyard flock diseases, prevention is key. Here are the causes, prevention and more about this common disease. 

What is Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens?

Fatty liver disease in chickens, also called hepatic steatosis, Fatty Liver Hemorrhagic Syndrome (FLHS), occurs when fat accumulates around the liver and abdominal cavity, causing a liver rupture.

Causes of Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens

This disease in chickens can be caused by genetics, breed, other preexisting diseases, such as cage layer fatigue, obesity, and consuming moldy feed or toxins. However, the most prevalent cause is poor nutrition.

Signs and Symptoms of Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens

There are multiple symptoms in chickens, but it can still be hard to diagnose, as chickens often exhibit the same symptoms for multiple diseases. If your chicken starts to exhibit these or other symptoms, take it to a licensed veterinarian for a diagnosis.

Symptoms include:

  • Overweight or obese hens
  • Pale or shrunken comb
  • Dandruff on the comb
  • Lethargy
  • Abnormally long growth of the beak or nails
  • Increased water consumption
  • Dull Feathers or changes in feather color
  • Loss of appetite
  • Not engaging in normal activities

Treating Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens

Sadly, by the time symptoms start, it is usually too late to save a chicken suffering from this disease. Often, if a vet does diagnose this medical condition, humane euthanasia is the best course of action to prevent suffering.

However, if the condition is caught early on, some veterinarians will work with poultry owners to reduce the effects of a chicken diagnosed with fatty liver disease.

Facts About Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens

While fatty liver in chickens is a serious condition, there are some interesting facts that you may not know about this disease.

  • Fatty liver disease is more likely to occur in layers than in broilers.
  • Fatty liver disease is more likely to occur in white egg layers than in brown egg layers.
  • While roosters can suffer from this disease, it is more likely to occur in hens.

How to Prevent Fatty Liver Disease in Chickens

Before you trade in your flock of Leghorns for some Barred Plymouth Rocks, be sure to know that there are less extreme measures that you can take. While you can’t prevent all cases, starting with good nutrition and maintaining proper weight in the flock is a good starting point.

Lowering Fat Intake to Prevent Fatty Liver Disease

Put away the scratch and sunflower seeds and instead offer your flock some healthy treats such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, strawberries, raspberries and oats.

Not only do the treats mentioned above contain low amounts of fat, but they are also high in biotin (vitamin B7). Biotin helps keep the liver healthy and prevents fatty liver disease in your birds.

Avoiding Mold to Reduce Fatty Liver Disease Risk

Never feed moldy feed, treats, or table scraps to chickens, as levels of mold and toxins will increase your chickens’ chances of contracting this disease.

Boost Protein to Protect Against Disease

Chickens fed a high-energy, low-protein diet (also known as HELP-formulated feed) are more likely to succumb to fatty liver disease. As a general rule of thumb, laying hens should be fed a diet with sixteen to eighteen percent protein.

The reason for this is that chickens naturally require more protein and fewer carbohydrates and fats in their diet. When a hen receives too much fat and carbohydrates, the fat begins to accumulate around the liver, causing damage to the organ.

Essential Vitamins for Preventing Disease

Just like we take vitamins to keep our bodies healthy, our chickens’ bodies also need proper nutrition in the form of vitamins and minerals to keep them healthy.

These vitamins are included in quality layer feed, but if you want to ensure your flock is receiving enough vitamins, add a water-soluble, poultry-formulated probiotic with extra vitamins to your flock’s water every day.

Important vitamins for preventing fatty liver disease in chickens include B vitamins, vitamin C and E.

Lifestyle Changes to Prevent Disease in Chickens

If you want to help prevent fatty liver disease, your flock may need to undergo some lifestyle changes. The good news is that if handled slowly, your flock will probably not even notice these changes and should adapt quickly.

Often, fatty liver disease in backyard flocks is caused by hens becoming overweight due to the amount of treats and table scraps that flock owners hand out, and even overeating their layer pellets.

So, how do you help prevent your chickens from becoming overweight? Below are a few ideas.

  • Introduce timed feeding. Since most backyard flocks spend their days foraging in the run, a chicken tractor, or scratching in the garden, limiting your flock’s feed intake to thirty minutes twice a day will prevent your flock from overeating.
  • Reduce the treats. If your flock is used to having three handfuls of scratch every evening, reduce the amount to two handfuls, or replace the scratch with a healthier option such as peas, oat groats, or oatmeal flakes for a healthier treat.
  • If you don’t already, be sure to provide your flock with free-choice access to oyster shell, as low levels of calcium in the body can contribute to fatty liver disease in chickens.

Preventing fatty liver disease in chickens may not always be possible, but ensuring we provide our hens with proper nutrition and helping them maintain a healthy weight should help them live longer, healthier lives.

This article was written for Chickens and Hobby Farms magazines. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

Pumpkins for Chickens: 4 Ways Your Birds Can Benefit

baby chicken in grassy area with pumpkins for chickens
Blessings Captured/AdobeStock

Pumpkins for chickens should be top of mind in the fall with creative carving and pie baking in full swing. With all those yummy human uses, make sure not to waste any of the remnants of this nutritious gourd. They’re great for our flocks. Here are four pumpkin parts and how they benefit our birds.

#1 Pumpkins for Chickens: The Benefits of Pumpkin Skin

While professional pumpkin carvers (like those seen on Food Network’s Outrageous Pumpkins) and bakers using fresh pumpkins prefer to pare the skin off the gourd, pumpkin skin is actually full of fiber. If thin enough, pumpkin skin can be eaten raw by your flock. It can also be roasted in an oven until dry, then crumbled and offered as a treat.

When using pumpkins for chickens, be sure to offer pumpkin skin in moderation, however. Its high soluble fiber content can quickly curb your birds’ appetite, keeping them from eating their regular rations.

#2 Using Pumpkin Pulp When Feeding Chickens

The stringy, slimy guts of a pumpkin are typically quickly discarded by humans but quickly gobbled up by chickens. Pumpkin pulp’s purpose is to bring nutrients to the pumpkin seeds which results in its high water content. This is actually quite flavorful and can be boiled to make a flavorful vegan broth.

Fortunately, when feeding pumpkins for chickens, they will happily ingest what we humans barely care to touch.

#3 Pumpkin Flesh Nutrition: Why Pumpkins for Chickens Are Healthy

Pumpkin is considered a superfood. Its orange flesh is packed with vitamins and minerals, including beta-carotene (which converts into Vitamin A), potassium and Vitamin C.

Chickens require Vitamin A for reproductive health. A deficiency in this crucial vitamin can lead to impaired reproduction and infertility. Research has also shown that a Vitamin A deficiency can lead to an increased occurrence of blood spots in eggs.

Potassium, meanwhile, is important for proper cellular electrolyte balance, while a boost of Vitamin C—which chickens naturally produce in their kidneys and liver—helps birds during times of high stress.

Not that your birds care about any of this. They just think pumpkins for chickens are delicious. Because pumpkin flesh is high in soluble fiber (approximately 60 percent), be sure to only offer your flock pumpkin in small amounts so that it doesn’t replace their regular feed.

Read more: Follow these tips for preparing leftover pumpkins for your chickens.

#4 Pumpkin Seeds and Protein for Chickens

Packed with protein and such minerals as zinc, magnesium and phosphorus, pumpkin seeds are truly a hidden treasure when feeding pumpkins for chickens. While we humans prefer our seeds completely free of pumpkin pulp, then roasted and flavored, our flocks aren’t as picky. In fact, they’ll eagerly pick out the seeds of any pumpkin they’re given.

Pumpkin seeds’ boost of protein is very welcome during the molting season when chickens’ protein levels are focused on the production of new plumage. Supplemental zinc has been shown to improve poultry growth and immunity, while magnesium and phosphorus are crucial to chickens’ bone development and density.

In other words, pumpkin seeds are ideal treats for chickens. Moderation is important when offering your flock pumpkin seeds, however, as research has shown that pumpkin-seed meal decreases feed intake.

This article about pumpkins for chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

6 Causes of Swollen Abdomen In Chickens

healthy white hen walking in grass does not display signs of a swollen abdomen
Adobe Stock/bilanol

A swollen abdomen in chickens can be alarming for any poultry keeper. Whether you raise hens for eggs or as pets, recognizing the possible causes early can help prevent further illness or loss. This guide explains the most common reasons for a swollen abdomen in chickens and when to seek veterinary help.

Understanding a Swollen Abdomen in Chickens

A swollen abdomen in chickens could be a symptom of any number of illnesses or health issues, several of which directly or indirectly affect the hen’s reproductive system. In veterinary medicine, there is rarely one cause of a condition, so we usually begin with a list of differential diagnoses and use lab tests and physical exams to differentiate.

Your best course of action is to reach out to your county extension poultry personnel or veterinarian for help in differentiating the various causes of a swollen abdomen in chickens. Veterinarians can perform a physical exam and run diagnostic tests, including X-rays, to distinguish between fluid and solid contents in the abdominal cavity.

Approach the diagnostic process with a clear sense of the animal’s financial value to your operation: Although some services might be available free of charge through a land-grant extension office, the expense of some diagnostic tests and treatments can add up quickly. While it’s always worth your time and money to identify a bacterial or viral infection that could potentially impact more than one member of the flock, this might not be the case with a condition that only affects one hen.

Poultry keepers who keep genetically improved breeds, bred for high egg production, might see these problems more frequently in their flocks, as production breeds—most of which are usually kept for 12 to 18 months in commercial settings—do not have the genetics to support three to four years of egg-laying. The risk of reproductive disorders increases with age in laying hens. These afflictions aren’t exclusive to production breeds, however—they can show up in any small-scale flock. Although it’s best to have a veterinarian examine your chicken, here’s a short list of differential diagnoses.

Common Causes of a Swollen Abdomen in Chickens

1. Ascites or Water Belly in Chickens

Fluid can accumulate in the abdominal cavity, secondary to heart disease or tumors in the heart and liver. Fluid in the abdominal cavity is usually accompanied by respiratory distress and cyanosis (bluish color) of the combs and wattles. There is no treatment for ascites.

2. Tumors and Internal Growths in Chickens

Several diseases, such as Marek’s disease, lymphoid leukosis and various adenocarcinomas, cause tumors and enlargement of a chicken’s internal organs, such as the liver, which might, in turn, distend the abdomen. Tumor diseases tend to be chronic, and affected chickens slowly suffer weight loss and decreased appetite. All day-old chicks should be vaccinated for Marek’s disease at the hatchery. Lymphoid leukosis can be transmitted from hens to developing embryos; therefore, disease-free chicks should be purchased from reputable hatcheries. There is no treatment for tumor diseases.

3.  Obesity and Fatty Liver Issues in Chickens

Extremely obese hens have a thick fat pad that can distend the lower abdomen. Obesity, normally caused by high-energy diets, also predisposes chickens to a condition called fatty liver hemorrhagic syndrome, where the liver is infiltrated with fat and can contribute to abdominal distension. The syndrome causes acute death in chickens when blood vessels in the liver rupture and cause internal bleeding. It’s seen increasingly in backyard and pet chickens that are fed table scraps high in calories. It’s also very common with small-scale flocks fed free-choice via feeders. Chickens should be fed a well-formulated and appropriately portioned diet to avoid FLHS.

4. Cystic Oviducts and Reproductive Disorders

Normally, only the left ovary and oviduct of the hen are functional, but sometimes, the right oviduct is functional and becomes cystic. The cysts appear in a range of sizes, and overly large cysts can distend the hen’s abdomen and compress internal organs. Your veterinarian might be able to drain the cyst nonsurgically using a sterile syringe and needle.

5. Impacted or Egg-Bound Hens

These oviductal disorders are seen in obese hens, older hens or pullets that come into lay too early. The oviduct becomes blocked by an egg or a mass of broken eggs and eventually eggs are pushed back into the body cavity as the hen continues to lay. Affected hens walk like penguins when the eggs in the abdomen are excessive.

There is no technical difference between impaction and “egg-bound;” however, I don’t like using the term egg-bound, as it’s more appropriate for what happens in pet birds, such as parrots, where one fully formed egg is stuck in the oviduct.

In chickens, the obstruction can result from several lodged eggs or a mass of broken shells, shell membranes, or a mass of yolk and egg white, and the result is the same. When impaction occurs in the front part of the oviduct (aka uterus), which is usually the case, eggs enclosed by shell membranes might be found in the abdominal cavity. This indicates that eggs continued to form but were refluxed back into the peritoneal cavity. The prognosis for affected hens is poor. The use of antibiotics might prolong an affected chicken’s life for a few months, but it will eventually die from the condition.

6.  Salpingitis and Infection in the Oviduct

This inflammation of the oviduct occurs frequently and can be introduced through the cloaca by various means, including pecking. The most common infection is by E. coli bacteria. In later stages of the condition, the oviduct and abdomen become distended due to masses of foul-smelling, cheesy contents in the oviduct. The cheesy masses are sometimes mixed with egg contents; as a result, salpingitis can frequently be confused with an impacted oviduct.

A chicken with salpingitis can remain healthy for a long time—until the late stage when oviductal contents start to impinge on vital organs. The chicken then becomes sick, refuses to eat and slowly declines. Antibiotics seem to help only temporarily, and while some veterinarians might attempt surgery, the chicken’s oviduct is so friable that the procedure is unlikely to be successful. Affected birds will die.

When to Seek Help for a Swollen Abdomen in Chickens

A swollen abdomen in chickens is not a disease itself but a symptom of many possible conditions. Early diagnosis and proper flock management can make a difference. For more chicken health and care advice, explore our other articles on poultry nutrition and common diseases.

About the Author: Jarra Jagne, DVM, DACPV, senior extension associate, Veterinary Support Services, Cornell University Animal Health Diagnostic Center. 

This article was vetted by Dr. Lyle G. McNeal.

This article about the causes of a swollen abdomen in chickens was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

Black Chickens: Popular & Perfect for Spooky Season

black chickens walking in a woodsy area
julochka/Flickr

Black chickens are popular breeds for backyard flocks and they are downright perfect for spooky season, but they can come with a significant hit to your pocketbook.

What Makes Black Chickens Black?

Fibromelanosis is the technical term for what causes a black chicken to be black. It is a genetic mutation that causes hyperpigmentation, an abnormal accumulation of melanin. This produces a bird with fibromelanistic traits — all black tissues, from feather to bone.

Rare Black Chickens

This trait is causing big interest among chicken keepers—or a big-money interest, anyway. Those fuzzy-looking Black Silkie bantams are common to the U.S., but two other breeds exhibiting fibromelanosis are quite rare. The Ayam Cemani, hailing from Indonesia, and the Swedish Black Hen, from Scandinavia.

Both breeds have been imported by rare-chicken breeder Greenfire Farms in Midway, Florida. Owner Paul Bradshaw, who has been working with rare breeds since 2007, is attracted to these chickens because of their “un-chicken-like, exotically beautiful and vaguely sinister appearance.” He continues: “In a world of beige Ford Fiestas, the Cemani are black Lamborghinis.”

They’re priced like Lamborghinis, too. Prices started out in the thousands when they were first introduced. Today, more breeders are carrying them, so the prices have come down, but are still much higher than purchasing a less trendy breed.

While an egg is an egg, what about the meat from these birds? Ewe Crazy Farms owner Bryce Everett says, “I do have several friends who have tasted the meat and describe it as having a slightly gamier flavor compared to regular chicken. Most compare the taste to game birds, such as dove, quail or pheasant.”

Ayam Cemani

The Ayam Cemani—which means “completely black chicken” in Javanese and Indonesian—is from Indonesia. The USDA has banned the import of chickens from Indonesia, but Bradshaw was able to get his Ayam Cemani from a breeder in the Netherlands. According to Cemani Farms, a breeder in Indonesia, Ayam Cemani are renowned as having mystical powers in their native country.

Like many Asian chicken breeds, such as the Aseel and the Malay, the Ayam Cemani has a game-fowl-like appearance. Its feathers are black with a metallic-green and -purple sheen, and the black coloration continues to the skin, muscles, bones and organs. The average weight is only 2¼ to 4 pounds.

Hens lay about 60 eggs per year. They go through a laying cycle of 20 to 30 large, cream-colored eggs, and then they stop laying for three to six months.

Swedish Black Hen

Called Svart Höna in Swedish, Swedish Black Hens are super rare. According to the Greenfire Farms website, a national poultry census confirmed fewer than 500 Swedish Black Hens in Sweden. Developed in a Nordic climate, Swedish Black Hens are cold-hardy and do well free-ranging.

“The Swedish Blacks (or Svart Höna) actually were not originally in my line of sight during the first [rare-chicken] import,” says Everett, who has been working with rare poultry since 2012. “My main concern was importing various colorations of English Orpingtons, and my contact providing the Orpingtons happened to also raise Svart Höna. One step led to another, and I eventually imported both eggs and adult Svart Höna from England after seeing photos of the stock. I was really lucky to find a breeder who was willing to export stock despite these birds being extremely rare, even in Europe.”

Swedish Black Hens have the same fibromelanosis trait that makes their feathers, skin, muscles and bone black, though some individuals have mulberry-red skin. The birds weigh only 5 to 7½ pounds, and hens lay 140 cream-colored eggs per year.

Making the Investment in Black Chickens

The price tag on popular black chicken breeds can scare farmers away as most are looking at a cost-effective way to deliver eggs and meat for their families and customers.

“Like most pursuits, the more sophisticated and knowledgeable you become about your interest, the greater lengths you must go to in order to satisfy it,” Bradshaw says. His typical customer is a sophisticated chicken fancier who is drawn to the black chickens’ exotic look.

Everett only sells Swedish Black Hens that are high-quality representations of the breed to others who are interested in breeding the chickens.

“I’ve been amazed at the number of people who have stepped forward and offered assistance in preserving rare breeds by breeding and showing,” he says. “As more people get involved, the rare breeds have a chance to become established in the U.S., which helps move these birds off the ‘endangered’ breed list.”

A word of caution before spending a few thousand dollars on a starter flock: Breeders might claim to be selling a certain rare breed, but you should do your research and verify the integrity of the breeder. “The single most important piece of evidence to support their claims would be a valid USDA import permit showing the origin of their breeding stock,” Bradshaw says. “Buyers should always ask for a copy of this permit.”

Even if black chickens aren’t the next animal you’ll be adding to your farm menagerie, learning about rare breeds, like the Ayam Cemani and the Swedish Black, can open to your eyes to a whole new (and colorful) world of livestock.

This article about black chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Large Animals

What to Do With Leftover Pumpkins on the Farm

goats eating leftover pumpkins in a field
Rikki's Refuge/Flickr

What to do with leftover pumpkins? With shorter days, changing leaves, and cooler fall weather, pumpkins are everywhere. It can feel like a waste to throw them out at the end of the season. Whether it’s unpicked pumpkins left in the field or jack-o-lanterns from your porch, pumpkins are safe for livestock and are readily consumed. Here are some practical ways to turn leftover pumpkins into a nutritious feedstuff for your farm animals.

Why Leftover Pumpkins Make Great Livestock Feed

Pumpkins contain high levels of vitamins A and E as well as folate and fiber. Although they are mostly water (roughly 85 percent moisture content), they can make a reasonable supplemental protein source. Many livestock, such as horses, cattle, sheep, and goats, find them palatable. Interestingly, pumpkin seeds—which are not toxic to livestock and humans—contain a compound called cucurbitacin. This compound is present in many plant species and typically functions as an herbivore deterrent because, in large quantities, it has a bitter taste. Anecdotally, there have been reports of cucurbitacin used as a natural dewormer in livestock. This was studied at Delaware State University with promising results, although more investigation is warranted. Likewise, this compound is being studied as an anti-cancer agent.

How to Feed Leftover Pumpkins to Cattle

Cattle will gamely munch pumpkins if put out to graze the growing fields after harvest. Cows have no trouble breaking open pumpkins and consuming the pulp. Sometimes the set-up will be just right, where a pumpkin patch is alongside a harvested cornfield. When grazed at the same time, pumpkin and corn stalks make a convenient diet for late fall and early winter cattle grazing.

Getting Leftover Pumpkins Delivered to Your Farm

With smaller cattle herds as well as sheep and goats, having leftover pumpkins delivered might work for your farm. Some pumpkin patches might have a surplus in late fall, which might also include some soft pumpkins or those with other blemishes. Don’t worry too much about a little mold—these livestock are well-equipped to pick through and be choosy about what they consume. If a pumpkin delivery sounds like it might work for your farm, start contacting local pumpkin growers early in the fall season; don’t wait until after Halloween or Thanksgiving to make that first call.

Can Horses Eat Leftover Pumpkins?

Horses also love the taste of pumpkin and might investigate a whole one if it’s thrown into the pasture. However, hastily consumed stems can be a choking hazard. For a quick and easy way to dispose of your jack-o-lanterns, simply put the used pumpkin—minus stem (and any candle or wax inside)—into the pasture for an edible toy. For horses with a more refined palette, or those unwilling or unable to crunch through raw pumpkin, you can easily bake a pumpkin to soften it. To do so, simply preheat your oven to 400°F and place the pumpkin (deseeded and with the top removed) in a glass casserole dish. Baking times vary based on the size of the pumpkin. A three-to-six-pound pumpkin usually takes 45 minutes to an hour to become soft. After baking, you can either scrape the pumpkin flesh out and mix it with your horse’s feed or slice the soft pumpkin up and offer pieces to your horse that way. Slicing the pumpkin before baking is also a way to reduce cooking time.

Before You Feed: A Few Pumpkin Precautions

There’s really only one word of warning regarding pumpkin feeding to livestock: The seeds might very well pass through the animals’ digestive system unharmed, and if the conditions are right, you just might find yourself an unwitting proprietor of a pumpkin patch next summer!

Feeding Livestock Leftover Pumpkins: Final Thoughts

Whether you have leftover jack-o-lanterns or unpicked pumpkins in the field, using them as livestock feed is a practical, sustainable solution. Not only do you reduce waste, but you also provide your animals with a nutritious treat. With a little planning, leftover pumpkins can become one of the season’s most useful resources on your farm.

This article about what to do with leftover pumpkins was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

Winter Tires: Boost Farm Vehicle Traction & Safety

winter tire with snow in tracks
Adobe Stock/Blaz Kure

Winter tires aren’t top of mind until they’re needed—but waiting until the first snowfall is too late. The best time to think about them is in the fall, before icy conditions set in. For farm vehicles like trucks, tractors, and ATVs, switching to the right winter tires improves traction, enhances safety, and keeps your operation running smoothly no matter the weather.

Snow and ice can make it difficult for tires to grip the ground and perform as expected. So whether you’re driving your farm truck into town for winter supplies or plowing snow with your ATV, improving tire traction ensures better control and fewer headaches in cold-weather work.

Here are three steps to keep in mind when preparing farm vehicle tires for winter.

Read more: Tackle these 4 tasks in autumn to make winter easier!

Switch to Winter Tires for Safer Winter Driving

The first step to consider is to exchange summer tires for winter tires, often called snow tires. It might be impractical to switch out the tires on all your vehicles and machines (if appropriate snow tires are even available). But installing winter tires on your farm truck—and any other car you drive in winter—is a smart approach.

Winter tires have deeper, more aggressive treads to provide better traction on snow and ice. They’re also designed to withstand cold, winter temperatures better than regular tires.

All this equates to safer handling under challenging conditions. So for hitting the road on a snowy day, winter tires are a big benefit. For best results, be sure to change all four tires. A mix of winter tires and summer tires probably won’t handle as well.

Use Tire Chains to Maximize Winter Traction

One of the best ways to give your farm truck, tractor or ATV/UTV a boost in snowy conditions is to install tire chains. These can work magic regardless of whether you have snow tires installed.

Tire chains are literally metal chains that wrap around tires to provide much-improved traction on snow and ice. They dig in effectively. And they can make all the difference if you’re trying to perform difficult work like plowing or blowing snow.

There are a few small downsides to tire chains. They shouldn’t be used at high speeds (under 30mph is recommended). If gaining traction is a concern, though, you’ll want to be driving slower anyway.

And they shouldn’t be used on dry roads. They’ll damage the surface and wear out quickly. But for working at sedate speeds around your farm, tire chains are a great choice for almost any vehicle.

Read more: Don’t forget about the tractor! These 5 steps will get your machine ready for cold weather.

Check Tire Pressure for Winter Tire Performance

Did you know tire pressure drops in cold weather? Even if your tires were inflated to the correct PSI (pound-force per square inch) at the end of summer, winter temperatures cause the pressure to drop. And this could potentially lead to underinflated tires.

At the start of winter, you should check the pressure in all your vehicle tires. Add air if necessary to maintain the proper levels.

You may have heard about intentionally underinflating tires to gain better traction in snowy conditions. The idea holds that an underinflated tire will sag a little, increasing the surface area in contact with the ground.

However, the many downsides of underinflated tires (including degraded steering, reduced driving safety, and damage to tires and wheels) offset any potential gains in traction.

You get better overall performance and durability with properly inflated tires.

Operating vehicles in snowy weather can be challenging. But these tips will help you get the best traction out of your tires this winter. You’ll increase your safety and performance along the way!

This story about winter tires was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

3 Unique Types of Pumpkins for Halloween Displays

Brodé d'Galeux Eysines squash is one of many unique types of pumpkins
Kevin Fogle

Unique types of pumpkins are all the rage these days. An amazing world of heirloom and conventional pumpkin and gourd cultivars exists that can bring unexpected colors and shapes to your garden or front porch and people are embracing the unique.

Here are a few cultivars to go hunting for at a local U-pick. Many of these will also look great growing in your garden if you happen to have the space.

1. Lumina: The Classic White Pumpkin Variety

the white lumina is one of many unique types of pumpkins

The Lumina is a standout in unique types of pumpkins. This conventional cultivar is prized for its smooth, white skin and traditional globe shape. Lumina plants produce two or three pumpkins weighing between 10 and 15 pounds. The pumpkins need to be picked early to ensure the white skin doesn’t take on a bluish hue.

Primarily used for decoration, the Lumina variety is a great choice for fall centerpieces or carving. The white rind and bright yellow flesh create a striking contrast when carved. Just think of the fun jack-o’-lantern possibilities!

2. Long Island Cheese: The Heirloom Pie Pumpkin

long island cheese is one of many unique types of pumpkins

Another favorite in unique types of pumpkins is the Long Island Cheese pumpkin, which is famous for its unusual shape, weird name and pure buff color. This American heirloom earned its moniker from its uncanny resemblance to a large pale wheel of cheese. The pumpkin is flat and round with shallow ribs and a well-formed, thin stem. Weighing less than 10 pounds on average, the Long Island cheese has dense, slightly sweet flesh that’s prized for its use in pumpkin pie.

These heirloom pumpkins are also great keepers and will store well for many months if cured and kept dry. If you are thinking about carving the Long Island Cheese for Halloween, its especially thin rind means that the pumpkin will produce an eerie glow when it is well-lit from within.

3. Brodé d’Galeux Eysines: The French Peanut Pumpkin

Brodé d'Galeux Eysines is one of many unique types of pumpkins

Looking for unique types of pumpkins and something creepy without even being carved? Consider the Brodé d’Galeux Eysines squash—better known as the peanut pumpkin. This favorite French heirloom gets its nickname from its distinctive peanut-like warts that cover the exterior of the peach-colored rind. Individual plants will produce only one or two of the flattened squashes, weighing between 10 and 18 pounds.

This squash is also a culinary treat and is traditionally used by the French for savory dishes like soups and stews. Plan to harvest this pumpkin just before it reaches full maturity to avoid any cracking issues.

This article about three unique types of pumpkins was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.