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Podcast Uncategorized

Growing Good Podcast #80: Sara Wittenberg, gardener and biologist

Pollinator Week is June 17-23, 2024. Without pollinators, we wouldn’t have food, making pollinators an essential link in the food system. You, as a gardener or farmer, have a role to play here. Gardener and biologist Sara Wittenberg talks with podcast host Lisa Munniksma about how and why we should be caring for our pollinators, including how to build a pollinator garden.

Learn about the Pollinator Partnership nonprofit and the work they’re doing to protect pollinators and prevent habitat loss, from educating gardeners and farmers to working on policies and supplying research grants. Sara may surprise you as she reveals who all of our pollinators are—not only honey bees, for sure!

More than 85% of U.S. households have outdoor living space, and Sara points out that even container gardens planted with pollinator habitat can make a difference! Hear about various pollinator initiatives happening in Arkansas and beyond that you can become involved in: the Project Wingspan effort to make native ecotype seeds more available to land stewards, NRCS programs to connect biologists with landowners for free advice and potential funding assistance, and all that the Pollinator Partnership offers. Sara explains the Bee Friendly Gardening program that she manages, which includes helping people learn how to build a pollinator garden. You can join the program to help them reach their goal of 1,000 Bee Friendly Gardeners by the end of 2024!

Sara lets us in on a new program—the first time she’s mentioned it to the public—the Bee Friendly Gardening badge system. Harkening back to your scout days, you can earn up to six badges to show your pollinator prowess.

For listeners growing on a commercial level, Bee Friendly Farming is an actual certification program that allows Bee Friendly Farmers to use the logo on their packaging.

Keep listening to learn about Sara’s own native-plant garden in her suburban Arkansas backyard. Milkweed, asters, black-eyed Susans, phlox and more turn her small outdoor space into a palette of colors throughout the seasons.

Keep listening for Sara’s best advice for how to build a pollinator garden on your own land, backyard or balcony. (Hint: The Pollinator Partnership’s garden recipe cards can help get you started.)

Links from this episode:

Bee Friendly Gardening website

Pollinator Partnership website

Native plants in your region

 

Categories
Poultry

What Chickens Lay Blue Eggs?

What chickens lay blue eggs? Here are five chicken breeds that lay blue eggs to consider adding to your flock, including their egg production and temperament.

1. Ameraucana

When asked what chickens lay blue eggs, most backyard flock owners think of the Ameraucana. This distinctive breed is easily recognized by its beard and muffs. However, there is some confusion about Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers being the same breed (more on that later). However, unlike the Easter Egger, the Ameraucana conforms to a breed standard and is recognized by the American Poultry Association as a true breed.

Ameraucana hens are excellent layers, producing 4 – 6 medium/large pale blue eggs weekly (200 – 220 eggs annually). They are also friendly and make wonderful pets for families with children. Hens of this breed get along well with other chickens, making them an ideal breed for backyard flocks.

chicken-breeds-ameraucana
Ameraucana (Photo by Andrew Jones/Adobe Stock)

Ameraucanas are hardy birds, tolerating both hot and cold weather. And live an average of five to eight years.

This breed comes in various colors: Black, Blue, Blue Wheaten, Brown Red, Buff, Lavender, Self-Blue, Silver, Splash, Wheaten, and White.

2. Araucana

The Araucana originated in Chile and was kept by the fierce Aruacana Indians. This breed is easily distinguished by its appearance: It is the only breed with ear tufts and one of a few rumpless breeds. These two characteristics make the Araucana stand out from other breeds but contribute to its lack of success.

When two parent birds are bred with the “ear tuff” gene, a lethal gene is produced, resulting in chicks dying a few days before hatching. Due to their rumpless bodies, Araucana chickens have a lower fertility rate than other breeds, averaging ten to twenty percent lower fertility ratings.

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Araucana (Photo by OceanProd/Adobe Stock)

Araucana hens lay an average of 3 – 5 pale blue eggs weekly (about 160 – 200 eggs annually). Araucana hens and roosters are friendly, tame, and inquisitive chickens, making them a good choice for individuals looking for a pet. However, some strains tend to be flighty and temperamental, so buy from breeders who breed for even temperaments.

The Araucana comes in several striking colors. Black, Black Breasted Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing, and White. This breed is also available in bantam form.

3. Easter Egger

What chickens lay blue eggs? Easter Eggers! This unique hybrid chicken doesn’t just lay blue eggs, but they also lay green or brown eggs, earning this breed their name. Easter Egger hens are excellent producers, averaging 4 – 6 large/extra large blue, green, or brown eggs weekly (250 – 280 eggs annually).

Often referred to as a “mutt” in the chicken world, Easter Eggers are not an actual breed. The Easter Egger is a combination of breeds used to create this hybrid with a gene for blue or green eggs. While Ameraucanas or Araucanas are usually in this chicken’s DNA, the rest of their ancestry remains a mystery. These chickens do not breed true, so hatching is always a fun surprise.

easter-egger-chicken-breed
Easter Egger (Photo by M. Huston/Flickr)

Like their Ameraucana ancestors, Easter Eggers often sport a beard and muff. Since Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers look alike, many chicken keepers confuse Easter Eggers with Ameraucanas.

Easter Eggers are friendly chickens who thrive on human interaction. With their calm and sweet nature, this breed is prone to being easily bullied in a mixed flock. Easter Eggers are an excellent addition to the backyard flock and are ideal for families with children.

Easter Eggers live a respectable five to eight years.

This unique chicken comes in many colors that do not breed true.

4. Cream Legbar

What chickens lay blue eggs? Did you know that one of the blue egg layers is also an autosexing chicken? One of the few chickens to be an autosexing breed, Cream Legbar chicks can be sexed by their color upon hatching. Male chicks hatch a lighter shade than female chicks and sport a yellow spot on the top of the head. Female chicks appear darker than males and have dark stripes down the back.

Autosexing chicken breeds are a popular choice for backyard chicken owners who do not want to worry about accidentally acquiring a rooster. Another interesting fact about these chickens is that, unlike sex link varieties, autosexing chickens breed true.

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Cream Legbar (Photo by normanack/Flickr)

For the practical chicken keeper, Cream Legbars are a cost-effective breed. They love to forage for some of their feed and have an excellent feed-to-egg ratio. Hens lay an average of 3 – 5 sky blue to pastel green medium/large eggs weekly (about 160 – 200 eggs annually)

Cream Legbars are also an excellent addition to the pet chicken flock as these hens are friendly, calm, quiet, and curious.

5. Whiting True Blue

Whiting True Blue chickens are the rarest breed discussed in what chickens lay blue eggs. However, this breed is an excellent egg producer, averaging 5+ pastel blue eggs weekly (280 – 300 eggs annually).

The hens of this breed are calm, friendly, and inquisitive. Whiting Blue chickens are not aggressive toward humans or other chickens, making them ideal for the novice. They are also a hardy breed that tolerates summer heat and winter chills. Hens live a respectable five to ten years.

Whiting Blue chickens come in many colors but do not breed true.

While there may not be as many chicken breeds that lay blue eggs as their brown egg-laying chickens and white egg-laying chickens, blue egg layers are gaining popularity in backyard flocks. So, if you want to add color to your egg basket, consider adding one of these extraordinary breeds to your flock.

This article about what chickens lay blue eggs was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food

Water Bath Canning: Questions & Answers

Water bath canning is a technique that can bring up lots of questions. As a food preservation author, instructor and certified master food preserver, I receive a lot of repeat questions. Here is a short list of five common water bath canning questions that I’m often asked and the answers.

If you aren’t sure where to begin when it comes to supplies, check out 5 Supplies You’ll Need to Water Bath Can.

Top 5 Water Bath Canning Questions with Answers

1. Do my jars need to be sterilized?

Old recipe books will call for you to sterilize your jars. However, if you are following a recipe that calls for you to water bath your jars of food for 10 minutes or longer, you do not need to sterilize your jars prior to filling them. This is a rule that has changed over the years.

If the recipe you are following calls for a processing time under 10 minutes, you will need to sterilize your jars prior to filling. To do so, you’ll need to boil your empty jars for at least 10 minutes prior to filling.

2. Can I reuse my jars, lids and rings?

When it comes to water bath canning, it is not recommended by the National Center for Home Food Preservation to reuse your canning lids more than once for water bath canning. You can use them for food storage, fermentation or other purposes, but not again for canning. However, the canning jar ring and glass jar can be reused as long as they are not flawed. Be sure to check your jars for chips around the rims or cracks within the glass, prior to using them for food preservation. The rings should be in good condition, circular and not deformed or bent.

3. Why is the garlic in my preserve green?

Sometimes garlic will turn green/blue during processing. This is caused by a chemical reaction and there is no harm or concern. The freshness of garlic plays a factor as well.

4. If my jars don’t seal, can I reprocess them?

First of all, it can take up to 12 hours for your jars to seal. All too often, people write to me and ask about their jar seals within a few minutes or few hours of processing. Do not touch your jars after removing them from the water bath. Allow them to completely cool down before testing the seal. Give them 12+ hours.

If your jar indeed does not seal, you can reprocess it if it is within a 24-hour window. I do recommend reprocessing for jams and other fruit spreads, however not so much for pickles or foods that can break down/soften even more during a second processing. For example, if I have a jar of pickles that did not seal, instead of re-boiling and cooking further, I’ll instead just transfer them to the refrigerator and enjoy them preserved that way.

5. Why did my jar break in the canner?

If the jar of food that you submerged in the water bath canner is too cool and your canner water is too hot, it can cause the jar to break. There is too much of a discrepancy between the temperature of the hot water bath and the jar of food, this is called thermal sho

To avoid this, reduce the heat of the water bath before submerging your jars of food. Once you have the water bath canner filled, apply the lid and turn up the heat until it reaches a rolling boil and then begin your timer per the recipe you’re following.

Another reason this can happen is if you are canning without a barrier on the bottom of your water bath canner. Don’t forget your canning rack. It’s not only important for avoiding thermal shock, but it also helps the water circulate around all parts of the canning jar to safely heat your food.

This article about water bath canning questions and answers was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Equipment

How to Prune Large Tree Branches Properly

How to prune large tree branches properly requires a bit of care and knowledge. It’s not a job you want to tackle willy-nilly, because taking the wrong approach can harm the tree.

What constitutes a large tree branch? You might be able to get away with safely cutting a branch up to one-inch thick using pruning loppers, but for any larger than that you’ll want to pull out a pruning saw (or chainsaw, if it’s a really big branch) and take additional steps to ensure the branch cuts cleanly and safely.

Whether you’re cutting a live branch in a bad location or a dead branch that needs removing, there’s a right way and a wrong way to go about it:

The Wrong Way to Prune Large Tree Branches

You grab any old saw—maybe a dull one that doesn’t cut very well—and you start making a cut through the large branch. Regardless of how thick and long it is, your head right for the origin point and refuse to shorten it or remove smaller branches down the line.

You start on top, since that’s convenient, and work your way down through the branch. You pay little attention to where you start cutting; maybe you’re five inches out from the trunk of the tree, or maybe you’re as close as you can possibly get to the trunk.

As you cut, the branch starts to sag under its own weight. Then, with surprising speed, the branch falls before you’ve cut all the way through. As it falls, the uncut bark on the underside refuses to break, and the weight of the branch pulls a long strip of bark off the tree trunk. Now the tree has a gaping wound, exposing it to infections and rot. And healing the branch stub may prove difficult or impossible if you’ve left it too long or too short.

Yikes! Clearly this isn’t the way to go.

Properly Pruning Large Tree Branches

To properly prune a large tree branch, consider cutting it off in pieces, removing smaller branches and shortening its length to reduce the overall size and weight.

Once this is finished, make a shallow cut on the underside of the branch, perhaps tow to three inches away from the branch’s origin point (whether that’s the tree trunk or an even larger branch). This will prevent the bark from tearing away as the branch falls. Use a sharp saw that will cut cleanly and efficiently.

After the underside cut is made, switch to cutting the top of the branch at a point roughly an inch or so farther out from the origin point. Cut all the way through. You’ll be left with a branch stub several inches long.

Now you can make the final cut. Don’t cut flush against the tree trunk/larger branch. You’ll likely notice a swelling around the base of the branch you’re cutting, perhaps with ridges in the bark. This is the branch collar, and you don’t want to cut it off or damage it, since the branch collar will work to heal over the cut you make. Make your final cut at the point where the branch collar ends (in many cases, it will be obvious), and cut straight through.

Congratulations! You’ve properly pruned a large tree branch in a manner that gives your tree the best chance to heal.

This article about how to prune large tree branches was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Breeds

Holland Lop Rabbit: Breed Profile

The Holland Lop rabbit is the smallest of the lop-eared breeds, topping out at four pounds. Originally from the Netherlands, this gentle breed is reported by the American Rabbit Breed Association (ARBA) as one of the top five most popular breeds they recognize.

History of the Holland Lop Rabbit

The Holland Lop rabbit is one of the newer breeds, making the history easier to track. First bred in Tilburg, Holland by Adriann de Cock, the Holland Lop was recognized as a breed in the Netherlands in 1964. They were immediately popular, and demand soon outstripped the supply. The breed spread rapidly throughout Europe.

Aleck Brook imported Holland Lops to the United States in 1975, and started the Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club for fans of the breed. Holland Lops were accepted into the ARBA in 1979. As of 2019, there were over 30 colors of Holland Lop recognized in the ARBA show circuit. These inclue self-agouti (chinchilla, castor agouti, opal, lynx), broken, self (black, blue, chocolate, lilac, white), shaded (frosted pearl, sable, sable point, seal, smoke pearl, tortoise), ticked (silver/silver fox, steel) and wide band (cream, fawn, orange, red).

Standards of Perfection

When showing Holland Lops, the head and body are the highest scoring areas. According to ARBA standards, the head should be round, large and with widely spaced eyes. The skull should be wide from ear to ear, with a short muzzle. A face that is too flat, or a head that is too small are common flaws.

The body of a Holland should be short and solid looking, while still being under four pounds. The chest should be broad, giving the front legs wide spacing. A high shoulder and non-existent neck are preferred. The hind end should be thick and sit completely on the ground. A long body is considered a serious flaw in the breed.

The ears and crown are worth 18 points in showing. Unlike most breeds, lops should not have any ear control and completely vertical presentation is preferred. The ears should be even with or just below the jawline, thick and wide at the base. The crown – where the ears connect to the skull – should have wide definition, with the ears should be directly behind the eyes. A crown that causes the ears to be pinched is a major flaw in the show ring.

Holland Lop Rabbit Care

Holland Lops are not only small, but friendly and easy to care for. Bucks are said to be more social than does, though even grumpier does can mellow with age. They weigh 2-4 pounds and require little space or exercise, making them good pets for older, mature children, or seniors. Rabbits are social animals, so raising them in pairs can be beneficial.

Unlike some of the other small rabbit breeds, Holland Lops have no focused health needs and live to about ten years old. They have a short, rollback coat that requires no specialized care, though brushing them out during molting season will help prevent blockages from hairballs. Occasional brushing and nail clipping is also helpful, especially if an older rabbit has difficulty grooming itself. Like any other rodent, Holland Lops will need toys or sticks to chew on to help their teeth wear down.

Due to their small size, some vets suggest being extra cautious about the diet you are feeding your rabbit since they cannot eat much. Those tiny bellies make it easy to spoil their dinner with treats! Still, good quality, 16% grain, fresh water and hay will help your rabbit meet their nutritional needs.

This article about the Holland Lop rabbit was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Stocking Density: What It Is & How it Affects Chickens

Stocking density is a farming term that refers to the relationship between the number of livestock and the size of the space within which they are kept. Low stocking rates in livestock – in this case, chickens – may result in inefficient production for farmers and loss of profits. However, studies have shown changes in behavior, production capability and mortality rates when the density rates are too high. Animal welfare advocates also promote lower stocking density due to the stress that crowded conditions can cause for birds.

Broiler Chickens

When raising meat birds in an industrial environment, a Danish study correlated higher stocking densities with poorer leg health. Since this made it painful for the birds to walk, they were less able to access food and therefore ended up at a lighter weight than the control group of less-crowded birds. A Japanese study showed that high stocking density increased chicken mortality in the winter and summer seasons, as well as lowered summertime body weights. This suggests that not only does reducing stocking density increase animal welfare, but it also improves the production value for farmers.

Higher stocking densities can also result in housing issues that can affect the health of chickens. If ventilation is poor, ammonia levels can become dangerous. Chickens may be unable to access feed and water as effectively, and both temperature and humidity may rise to unhealthy levels. A study at the University of Oxford suggested that the birds’ mortality rates improved in companies that used litter to reduce moisture and improved ventilation to reduce ammonia. However, the study also acknowledged that stocking density affected animal welfare in more ways than mortality rates.

Egg Layers

Laying hens are also affected by high stocking density in caged environments. In multiple studies, high stocking density was correlated with lower egg production and lower egg weight. One study in “Tropical Animal Health and Production” (2021) found that hens raised with lower stocking density and high light levels reached maturity before other tested groups. This same study showed that hens at high stocking density had poorer feed ratios. A California study showed that birds in low stocking density environments had fewer feathers broken or missing than those birds raised in a more crowded environment.

Interestingly, few studies could be found on density in outdoor environments. One research article from Australia in 2017 showed little difference in birds raised in high or low stocking density environments. Egg production and quality were similar in all groups. However, it was noted that birds in the low-density groups were more likely to use the provided outdoor range compared to those in more densely populated groups. This suggests a possible difference in the nutritional quality of the eggs.

Effects on the Young

The effects of high-density conditions can also be seen in chicks and pullets. The University of Hohenheim in Germany tested birds by varying the stocking density until seven weeks of age, and then keeping all birds in areas of 2.4 birds/m2 until twenty-eight weeks of age. Despite having a comparable environment as adults, the birds raised in crowded areas as chicks displayed more pecking behaviors, poorer physical condition and poorer health as adults.

It is important to note that other studies have shown that non-brooded chicks – those without a hen to care for them – show higher levels of these behaviors compared to those raised by a broody hen. These are common behaviors when the chicks are given stocking densities of those commonly used in industrial chicken raising. However, a Danish study in 2015 showed that dark brooders can mitigate some of these anti-social behaviors. This suggests that either density is not entirely responsible for these behaviors, or that the effects may be mitigated by other factors.

This article about stocking density was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

What is a Master Gardener and How You Become One

What is a Master Gardener? Many people assume that you must be a skilled gardener to become a Master Gardener, but the truth is that anyone can become one. Master Gardener volunteers are trained volunteers that educate the public on a variety of research based (scientifically studied) horticultural topics.

Novice gardeners, expert gardeners and everyone in between is encouraged to participate. Of course, you must have an interest in growing plants, cultivating gardens and a desire to share your knowledge with the community. Sharing your knowledge with the community is a key component to the program. Becoming a volunteer is a fabulous way to connect with other local people with common interests and a wonderful way to help others learn more about the environment.

Master Gardener programs are run through your county extension offices. Here in Minnesota, I’m a Master Gardener volunteer through Hennepin County and I became one in 2021. The process begins by filling out an application. Next, you’ll be interviewed by 2-3 extension office people, just to make sure that you have a good understanding of what the program entails and that your goals align.

Master Gardener Programs

Once you are accepted into the Master Gardener program, there are 48 hours of core courses that you will take that teach you about a wide variety of research-based topics. Our program offers weekly classes that each cover a different topic. Our core courses are taught by the University of Minnesota’s horticultural experts. Core courses cover topics such as pollinator health, plant biodiversity, clean water, creating resilient landscapes and techniques for growing vegetables.

Once you’ve completed the core courses, you’re required to volunteer for 50 hours during the first year.

Master Gardener Volunteer Activities

Volunteer activities of a Master Gardener include helping with community gardens, assisting with youth programs, offering support for schoolyard gardens, participating in environmental educational programs, partaking at question-and-answer tables at farmers markets, speaking to garden clubs and so much more.

Other volunteer activities include writing for your local paper, participating in garden tours, plant sales and other special events, growing seeds as part of the annual seed trials, installing pollinator gardens at home, plus more! One of my favorite ways to volunteer is to grow a giving garden where the fresh produce grown in my garden is donated to a local food shelf. There are many volunteer opportunities throughout the year, so it’s very simple to meet the volunteer hour requirements.

Staying Active

Each year after the initial one, you will be required to volunteer a certain number of hours as well as meet continuing education hours to keep your Master Gardener status active.

Programs vary by state and county and the information provided throughout the courses will be tailored to your region. No matter how experienced you are, you will be sure to learn more through the educational courses offered and from other participants. I can’t say enough positive things about the program and encourage anyone interested in it to explore your local offerings.

What to Know

There are class fees required to participate, as well as a background check.

There are application deadlines, so if you are interested, I encourage you to look at your county extension office website sooner rather than later.

If you want to learn more but don’t want to volunteer, there is an option to take the core courses without the commitment of volunteering (at least with our program).

This article about what is a master gardener was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry Waterfowl

Snapping Turtles: Common Duck Predators

Snapping turtles are one of a backyard duck’s most feared and deadly predators, living in ponds, streams, and other bodies of water and preying on ducklings and adult ducks. Discover everything you need to know about snapping turtles, including their habitat and hunting behaviors, to help protect your ducks from these underwater killers.

What Are Snapping Turtles?

The snapping turtle group consists of three species: the Common Snapping Turtle, the Alligator Snapping Turtle, and the Suwannee Alligator Snapping Turtle.

The Common Snapping Turtle is not only the most common but also the most aggressive. These slow-moving reptiles are omnivores (meaning they eat plants and meat), feast on ducklings, and inflict severe damage on adult ducks. Snappers are dangerous for waterfowl and can also be aggressive to other livestock, pets, and even humans.

Snapping Turtle Identity

Snapping turtles are easily recognized by their large size, long tails, and scowling faces. Their color varies from tan to black, although most snappers have a dark-colored carapace (the upper shell). The shell is often rough looking instead of the smooth carapace other turtle species sport. Young snappers’ shells usually display three ridges on the lower back that disappear as the turtle matures.

The snapping turtle’s long tail, which often exceeds the length of the carapace, is another way to easily distinguish this species from harmless turtles.

Snappers are large turtles measuring eight to fourteen inches long and weighing between ten and forty-five pounds.

The final way to recognize these reptiles is by their large head, neck, and hooked jaw, which gives the turtle the appearance of frowning.

Habitat

The snapping turtle can often be found swimming in the dark, murky waters just below the surface of a pond. As aquatic reptiles, snappers spend nearly their entire life in the water.

One of the most interesting things about snapping turtles is that they aren’t picky about the water they live in. It can be found in almost any permanent or semi-permanent body of water, including creeks, marshes, bogs, ponds, lakes, streams, and even your inground pool!

Diet

The snapping turtle is an omnivore, consuming both plants and meat. One-third of their diet is comprised of aquatic plants, including water lilies, duckweed, algae, and pondweed. The other two-thirds consists of meat, including insects, spiders, frogs, invertebrates, ducks (ducklings and adults), birds, fish, carrion, and small turtles.

Hunting Behaviors

Snapping turtles hunt beneath the water just below the surface of ponds, streams, and other waterways. As ducks swim through the waters, their dangling feet and legs make them an easy target for snapping turtles to grab.

While ducklings are at the most risk of being killed by a snapper, it is not uncommon for adult ducks to lose feet and legs from a turtle attack. While it is less common, snapping turtles can also kill and eat an adult duck.

Although snapping turtles are more likely to attack ducks on the water, they can also attack on land, especially if they feel threatened.

Is My Pond Safe?

The tricky thing about snapping turtles is that just because you don’t see them doesn’t mean they aren’t residing in a pond or the nearby marsh. These reptiles rarely leave their calling cards, so many duck owners do not realize they have taken up residence until their flock has been attacked.

Snapping turtles are also known for traveling up to ten miles to find a new territory to lay eggs and raise their young.

Protecting Your Duck Flock

Protecting ducks from a snapping turtle attack is easy if you keep them off ponds and out of marshes, creeks, and streams.


Also Read: How to Protect Ducks from Weasels


While ducks need water to stay clean and parasite-free, many duck owners prefer to offer kiddie pools or stock tanks for a safer swimming alternative. (When raising ducklings, always provide the young with a kiddie pool to ensure the safety of the ducklings from a predator attack.)

Pond Safety

If you still desire to provide your flock with a pond, there are some safety tips you can employ to keep your flock safe.

Before allowing ducks out on the pond, always ensure that the pond and the surrounding area are free of snapping turtles.

Keep the perimeter around the pond trimmed to prevent turtle hiding spots. This will make them easier to spot.

Install ¾ inch fencing around the pond’s perimeter to keep baby and adult snapping turtles from accessing the pond and your flock. The fencing should stand two feet high to prevent turtles from attempting to scale the fence.

While the fencing size may seem extreme for adult snappers, baby snapping turtles are only one inch wide and can fit through small gaps. Check fencing frequently for weak spots or holes.

If a snapping turtle is spotted, remove ducks from the area immediately. Snapping turtles can live up to thirty years, so chances are they won’t be moving on anytime soon.

Check with your local fish and wildlife officials before eradicating snapping turtles from your property.

While the snapping turtle is a natural predator of ducks, you can prevent your flock from falling prey with knowledge and careful planning.

Categories
Poultry

Chicken Predator Identification Guide: Predator CSI

Chicken predator identification is important so chicken keepers know what has attacked their flock and how to prevent it from happening again by protecting your flock from common predators.

On a personal note…Tara and her young son, Beckett, had started the morning like any other: a short stroll in their backyard to the coop where their four hens lived. As they drew closer, however, Tara sensed something wrong. She told Beckett to wait, then approached the henhouse slowly—only to see a quartet of bodies slumped on the ground, motionless. Quickly, she took a confused Beckett back to the house and, once he was occupied, returned to investigate.

“It was like something made a hole in their chests and sucked the insides out. What did that to my chickens?” she asked me.

I get this question far too often. I hate to hear how birds, sometimes entire flocks, get decimated by nocturnal and diurnal predators. It’s happened to our flocks a handful of times over the years, enough so that I can look at a victim and identify the predator, whether raccoon, dog, weasel, fox, coyote or other.

If you find your flock has been attacked, here is a reference guide to chicken predator identification so that you can take proper precautions in the future.

Missing Heads

If you find your chicken with its head missing, chances are the attacker is a raccoon or a bird of prey, such as a hawk. Birds of prey will swoop down and scare chickens, who sometimes jump up in fear and get their heads caught in the netting or mesh that covers their run. A hawk or other bird of prey will then grab the head with its powerful talons and rip it off. Raccoons will also rip the heads off chickens through fencing, often reaching through at ground level to grab a chicken and pull its head off, leaving its body on the other side of the fence.

Missing Legs and Wings

A chicken whose mortal injury was the loss of a limb, such as a leg or a wing, was the victim of a raccoon. In this case, the raccoon reached through the fencing and caught hold of your bird’s limb instead of its head.

Wounds Near the Vent; Entrails Pulled Out

If your chicken is alive, with bite marks and lacerations around her vent, or if your bird is deceased, with intestines pulled out through her vent, the predator in question belongs to the weasel family. Weasels, minks, ferrets, badgers and martens wrap themselves around their prey’s body and attack the vent area. Members of the weasel family will also bite a bird at the base of the skull to kill it before feeding. (Here’s a video of how to identify predators with a simple scent station.)

This gruesome carnage signifies a common poultry predator, the raccoon. This type of predation pattern often occurs when a raccoon has gotten into a coop at night. It will typically feed on one or two chickens in this manner, then depart, leaving the remains behind.

Missing Birds

If one of your birds seems to have simply disappeared, or if there is nothing but a scattering of feathers in the coop, run or yard, the probable culprit is a fox. Foxes tend to kill or severely injure their prey, then carry them back to their dens, often to feed their kits. Coyotes and bobcats are also known to carry off their prey, as are hawks, owls and other birds of prey.

Missing Chicks

If you are missing one or more chicks, you might have a rat or opossum problem. Both predators grab infant poultry off an unguarded nest and carry them away. Rat snakes also prey on chicks, eating them whole. Another carnivore that targets chicks is the domestic cat, which tends to carry chicks off to play with this lively new toy elsewhere.

Missing or Damaged Eggs

A number of predators prey on poultry eggs. Snakes swallow eggs whole. Rats carry eggs away a short distance, then eat them. A skunk punches a hole into an egg, then sticks its muzzle in to lick out the contents. Raccoons and opossums tend to crush eggs to eat them, leaving behind a mess of mashed shell and oozing interiors. Blue jays and crows are known to occasionally prey on poultry eggs.

Bird Found Dead, No Sign of Injury

If you’ve found one or more of your birds dead with no apparent sign of foul play, your problem might be a dog. Descended from wolves, dogs still have a strong instinct to hunt and might harass and frighten your birds. In their panic to escape, your birds might pile up in a corner, one on top of the other, resulting in the suffocation and death of those on the bottom. A dog might also target a free-ranging bird, playing with it until the bird finally stops moving.

Bird Found Dead With Various Injuries

If the injuries that killed your hen don’t fit any of these patterns, among the predators stalking your flock might be an opossum or a feral cat. Both attack grown birds in a random fashion, doing whatever it takes to bring the prey down. We caught an opossum in the act of tearing the beak off our Araucana cockerel, Eduardo. The opossum did not survive that encounter, and poor Eduardo had to be euthanized. One of our Orpington hens, Mariel, encountered a feral cat in the woods. Fortunately, I found and rescued her, treated the horrible lacerations to her sides and belly, and—three years later—Mariel is still with us.

My friend Tara is still heartbroken about her hens, whom she had raised from baby chicks she purchased several years ago. This incident won’t stop her from raising chickens again, though. She already plans to try again next spring—as long as she and her husband have fully secured their coop and run from further attacks by raccoons and other predators.

This article about chicken predator identification was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Food Recipes

A Refreshing Strawberry Rhubarb Shrub Recipe

A strawberry and rhubarb shrub recipe is a winning combo and a great way to use up some of your rhubarb and fresh strawberries as they ripen. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we do!  

Yield: 3 to 4 cups finished shrub 

Ingredients 

  • 2 total cups rhubarb and strawberries, chopped (fresh or frozen). Discard green leaves of the rhubarb, as they are poisonous, and hull the berries. 
  • 2 cups white granulated sugar 
  • Days later: 2 cups organic apple cider vinegar (or other drinking vinegar of choice) 

Directions 

Wash strawberries and rhubarb, removing any bruised or damaged parts.  Prep rhubarb and strawberries, and add them to a clean quart jar. Pour in sugar. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean dampened towel to remove any sugar or fruit juice, apply the canning jar lid, and tightly screw on the ring.

Shake the jar vigorously to mix the strawberries, rhubarb and sugar together.  

Store the jar at room temperature, out of direct sunlight. Allow the mixture to macerate over a couple days until a thick syrup is made. A few times per day, shake the mixture to speed up the process (or you can use a clean spoon to stir well). 

After two to three days, once the sugar has dissolved and a syrup is made, use a fine mesh strainer to strain out the solids, reserving the syrup in a measuring cup. Use the back of a spoon to push out any excess syrup. Once strained, measure the amount of syrup that was collected and add that same amount of vinegar to the syrup (it will be 1.5 to 2 cups of vinegar), stir well to mix.

Store your strawberry rhubarb shrub in a clean, airtight jar and refrigerate. Enjoy within a few months for best flavor. 

To Serve 

Mix about one shot glass of the shrub mixture with water or carbonated water. Serve over ice. Shrubs also make delicious and unique cocktail mixers. 

Side Notes 

You can also use brown sugar, coconut sugar, maple syrup or other sugar alternative in place of white granulated sugar. 

This method of shrub-making can be applied to any fruits-and-herb combinations.  

Don’t toss the strained-out fruit solids! They are delicious mixed into plain yogurt or oatmeal, or blended into a smoothie. 

This strawberry rhubarb shrub recipe was adapted for Hobby Farms magazine online from WECK Small-Batch Preserving (2018) with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc. Click here to subscribe.