Categories
Farm & Garden

Turnip Jack-O’-Lantern: The Original Halloween Tradition

Carved and lit turnip jack-o'-lantern display for Halloween.
Rusana/Adobe Stock

The turnip jack-o’-lantern was the original Halloween lantern long before pumpkins took its place. Weekends at my grandparents’ farm often included Saturday morning pancakes, blackberry picking, fishing … and turnip snacks before bedtime. I was not the least bit insulted that while Grammy cut slices of the white and purple vegetable, she alternated between feeding me and the dog.

Turnips have gone from being a common treat to mystifying the checkout girl at our local grocery store. I was reminded of those late-night turnips recently as I began preparing for Halloween.  If you haven’t already guessed, I’m a plant geek. While other parents happily tote home pumpkins for their kids to decorate, I try to persuade mine to carve turnips instead. After all, turnips were the original Jack-o’-lantern.

The Folklore Behind the Turnip Jack-O’-Lantern

The story of the jack-o’-lantern varies, as all good stories do. Jack either made a deal with the devil never to take his soul or escaped from the fiery pit. Either way, because he fit neither in the land of the living nor beyond, he was doomed to wander the world searching for a final resting place. According to legend, he carved his favorite vegetable and placed a hot coal inside to guide him through the darkness.

This early Irish tale appeared roughly 300 years ago, and it explains why turnips became such an important part of the season. In Ireland, winter was approaching, and root vegetables like turnips were valuable staples that could keep well in cold storage.

Why Turnip Jack-O’-Lanterns Are Perfect for Halloween

Turnips were ideal for carving because of their sturdy nature. They could hold a candle or a coal and provide light during long autumn nights. When the tradition of carving vegetables came to the New World, pumpkins eventually replaced turnips — but the turnip jack-o’-lantern is the original spooky, glowing symbol of Halloween.

Health Benefits of Turnips

Beyond folklore, turnips (Brassica rapa) are nutritional powerhouses. High in fiber, this cousin to broccoli may help lower the risk of digestive issues, some forms of cancer, and high blood pressure. They are packed with vitamins B and C, potassium, and can be enjoyed raw, roasted or sautéed. Don’t forget the greens — they’re edible and full of nutrients too.

Growing & Storing Turnips

Growing turnips for your own turnip jack-o’-lantern is easy. They mature in just two months, allowing multiple plantings. Turnips prefer full sun, acidic and well-drained soil, and plenty of compost. Avoid soggy soil to prevent rot. The best time to harvest is spring and fall, when the roots are small and sweetest.

For winter storage, you can leave turnips in the ground under a thick layer of mulch or harvest them, remove the greens, and store them in a refrigerator or root cellar.

bunch of purple and orange turnips
Shutterstock

From Turnips to Pumpkins

Though pumpkins have become the iconic Halloween vegetable, the turnip jack-o’-lantern holds a special place in history. If you’re looking for an old-world, slightly spooky, and authentic Halloween tradition, carving a turnip is a fun way to honor the original tale of Jack and his lantern.

This article about making a turnip jack-o’-lantern was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Health & Nutrition Sponsored

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Poultry

What Are the Best Treats for Chickens?

white chicken eating the best treats for chickens while grazing in a grassy yard
bilanol/Adobe Stock

The best treats for chickens are nutritious and help to provide a great bonding experience between poultry and humans and can even be used for training. 

How Treats Help Train Chickens

Researchers wanting to better understand chicken behavior and cognition train chickens to peck at a certain object by rewarding them with a treat. Similarly, backyard chicken owners can train chickens to come when called by using treats as a reward. This can be a great way to consistently get backyard flocks to return to the coop at night. 

For success in training, positive reinforcement tactics with treats are key. Just like with dogs, punishment-based training methods are counterproductive. This is especially true for chickens since they have reactive prey instincts. 

Why Chickens Love Treats

Chickens have a behavioral and physiological response when they anticipate getting a treat. This anticipation of consuming a treat is linked to the reward centers within the brain. One experiment (“Effects of haloperidol, a dopamine D2-like receptor antagonist, on reward-related behaviors in laying hens,” Moe et al., Physiology & Behavior, 2011) found that chickens increase their head movement and remain alert, with their head and neck stretched, when they anticipate receiving a treat. 

In fact, the more desirable the treat (for example, if the treat includes mealworms or insects vs. whole wheat) the more they showed head movement, as shown in another experiment (“Effects of signalled reward 482 type, food status and a µ-opioid receptor antagonist on cue-induced anticipatory behaviour in 483 laying hens [Gallus domesticus],” Moe et al., Applied Animal Behavior Science, 2013). 

Read more: Here’s what you should know about poultry waterers and feeders.

Nutritional Value of the Best Treats for Chickens

Even though poultry feed is considered a complete and balanced diet, treats can be a very beneficial supplement. Poultry feeds are formulated based on the protein, fat, carbohydrate, vitamins and minerals of various ingredients.

Chicken treats can provide additional, more flexible nutrition. 

Supplementing your flock with treats gives you the ability to tailor their diet based on what they need most. For example, most chicken-approved kitchen scraps can be a great treat for a flock. However, fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs have limited nutritional value because of their high water content.

These types of fresh food scraps can help keep a flock hydrated. Oftentimes, however, the water content dilutes most of the nutritional benefits. Dried fruits and vegetables are more shelf-stable than fresh, meaning they’re more nutrient-dense and provide a higher amount of nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals. 

Choosing the Best Insect Treats for Chickens

Insects are highly beneficial and a poultry favorite, which is why they’re often included in treats! Birds are omnivores and love snacking on insects—those they catch in the coop and garden and the dried insects found on store shelves. 

In general, most insects and their larvae are a good source of protein and fat and are highly digestible, although they can have a varying nutrient profile. For example, the macronutrient (carbohydrates, fat) profile and amino acid digestibility between black soldier fly larvae and mealworms are similar. However, black soldier fly larvae tend to have a much higher amount of calcium and a slightly lower level of crude protein than mealworms.

When it comes to insect treats, safety and sustainability should be taken into consideration as well. For example, black soldier fly larvae are more sustainable to grow than other insects. They have a mechanism in which enzymes are secreted to aid in the digestion and absorption of nutrients, allowing their growth cycle to be relatively shorter and more efficient. 

Safety and Sourcing of Chicken Treats

Another factor that affects the safety and nutrient value of these insects is how they are grown and processed. If the feed fed to black soldier fly larvae contains heavy metals, this can lead to heavy metal accumulation in the larvae. Heavy metal poisoning affects the health of our chickens, and these minerals can also potentially contaminate their meat and eggs. 

Salmonella can also be a concern with dried insects. When Salmonella was introduced during mealworm production, it resulted in contamination and remained within the larvae through processing, as shown in “Salmonella Typhimurium Level in Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor) after Exposure to Contaminated Substrate,” Jensen et al., Frontiers in Microbiology, 2020). Selecting insects grown in countries that have strict feed and safety regulations, such as the United States, helps to ensure the insects are safe for our birds to eat. 

Read more: Ferment your chicken feed for numerous nutritional benefits!

Beyond Corn: The Best Treats for Chickens Today

Offering treats to poultry isn’t a novel idea. However, the variety of options for the type of treat is!

Historically, scratch grain was considered the original poultry treat. In the early 20th century, poultry were primarily fed by scattering grain on the ground, thus the term “scratch grain.” Generally speaking, the term referred to corn, wheat and other grains. 

Now, because of the progress of nutritional science and poultry nutrition, treats have come a long way. Scratch grain is still available as a treat, but the definition has expanded to include a variety of ingredients such as corn, barley, oats, wheat and more.

These ingredients are high in carbohydrates but may not necessarily be balanced in other nutrients, such as protein and minerals. 

The carbs in scratch grain are a good energy source for our birds, especially with colder temperatures. But the inclusion of other ingredients, such as insects, can increase the nutrient value and take the treat from good to great! A balanced blend of ingredients such as black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, dried fruits and vegetables, and/or herbs can offer the most nutrient-dense option and provide value and are considered the best treats for chickens. 

How Much Is Too Much? Moderation Matters

Researchers and backyard poultry keepers agree that chickens enjoy treats, especially highly palatable ones! They’re an effective, positive way to train poultry while also offering a solution for boredom and fun interaction. However, like most things, moderation is key when feeding treats, and treats should not make up more than 10 percent of a flock’s diet. 

To best support your chicken flock, consider supplementing their diet with treats that offer functionality and nutritional value. You may even discover that they prefer different treats during different times of the year or based on what’s happening in their environment. When you find the right treats for your flock, everyone, keepers and birds alike, will be that much happier and healthier.  

Mikayla Baxter, Ph.D., is the Diges­tive Health Products Manager at Perdue Animal Nutrition. This article about the best treats for chickens was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Feeding Pumpkin to Chickens: A Mash Recipe

feeding pumpkin and squash to chickens with a pile of squash in the background
Adobe Stock/ Andrii A

Feeding pumpkin to chickens is a fun and healthy way to add seasonal nutrition to their diet. Chickens enjoy the taste and texture of pumpkin pulp and seeds, which are packed with vitamins, minerals, and fiber. In this simple mash recipe, oats boost the mix with antioxidants, B vitamins, calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and protein. The recipe makes enough for four or five hens and can easily be doubled or tripled for larger flocks.

What You’ll Need for Pumpkin Mash

  • pulp and seeds from one small pumpkin or winter squash
  • 1 cup steel cut oats
  • 4 tablespoons raw pumpkin or squash seeds
  • 1 tablespoon molasses
squash pumpkin mash chickens recipe
Lesa Wilke

How to Make Pumpkin Mash for Chickens

Split the squash or pumpkin in half, and scoop the pulp and seeds out of the internal cavity; save the two halves for serving. Mix the pulp and seeds with the oats, additional seeds and molasses. Spoon half of the pulp mixture back into each of the two saved halves. Serve it to your chickens by placing the halves in the coop or run; they will eat the mixture from the cavities and will also eat the flesh.

Tips for Serving Pumpkin Safely

When feeding pumpkin to chickens, it’s important to serve it safely to keep your flock healthy and give the biggest benefit of offering pumpkins to your flock. Always use fresh pumpkin that is free from mold or soft spots, and avoid adding sugar, salt, or other additives. Offer pumpkin in moderation, as it should be a treat rather than a primary part of their diet. For larger pumpkins, cutting them into halves or smaller pieces makes it easier for your chickens to peck and enjoy the flesh and seeds without frustration. Following these simple precautions ensures your birds get the full nutritional benefits of this seasonal favorite.

This story about feeding pumpkin to chickens was written for Hobby Farms and  Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry

Chicken Coop Light Pros & Cons

a chicken coop light can help birds stay warm and continue laying eggs in winter
Adobe Stock/phattharabodin

Using a chicken coop light in the winter is always a debated topic among backyard chicken owners. Knowing the pros and cons of using artificial light for chickens will allow you to make the best decision for you and your flock. Here’s what you need to know.

4 Pros for Using a Chicken Coop Light in Winter

Eggs are the reason many flock owners choose to use artificial light for chickens in winter, as the decrease in natural light causes egg production to drop.  However, there are several other pros to consider.

1. Chicken Coop Lights Make Chores Easier

The shorter days and longer nights mean tending to chicken chores often in the dark. Winter-time chores are much more enjoyable when the flock owner can see what they are doing. Depending on your routine and schedule, adding artificial light for chickens in winter makes more sense than attempting chores in the dark.

Collecting eggs, refilling feeders and water founts and observing the flock for potential health or behavior problems can be almost impossible without some form of artificial lighting.

2. Lights Can Give Warmth & Stave Frostbite

Another reason to use artificial light for chickens in winter is the added warmth a heat lamp produces. While not necessary in most climates, in the far northern regions where temperatures stay well below freezing (32°F.) all winter long, providing chickens with a heat source may be unavoidable.

Using heat lamps for chickens in winter can also be helpful when raising chickens that are prone to frostbite, heat-hardy breeds, and bantams.

3. Chicken Coop Lights Can Offer Predator Protection

The long nights combined with frigid temperatures, snow and ice can make chicken predators desperate for a free meal. However, many predators do not want to enter a coop that is well-lit, as the light gives it the appearance that a human may be close by.

Adding artificial light for chickens in winter can help cut down on predator attacks on your flock, but the best option is still through the protection of a completely predator-proofed coop and run to keep your flock safe from predators all year round.

4.  Increase Winter Egg Production

Despite all the other pros to using artificial light for chickens in winter, the increased egg production still remains the most common reason backyard flock owners turn to artificial lighting.

Chickens need 14 to 16 hours of daylight daily to consistently lay eggs. In winter, when natural daylight decreases to about nine to ten hours per day, egg production slows down and often ceases.

While the slowed egg production will begin to pick up in late winter/early spring, if you sell eggs, the decline in production can be a disadvantage.

4 Cons for a Chicken Coop Light in Winter

While there are several pros for using artificial light for chickens in winter, there are also multiple cons to consider before adding lighting to your coop.

1. Chicken Coop Lighting Increases Stress Levels

Adding artificial light for chickens in winter can mean an increase in eggs, but it also means an increase in stress in the coop.

Just like humans, who become more stressed and a little cranky when deprived of a good night’s sleep, chickens are also more easily stressed and more likely to bully flockmates than chickens allowed to rest overwinter.

2. Poultry Lighting Equals a Fire Hazard

Using a chicken coop light in winter comes with an increased chance of fire hazard. Chickens tend to be dusty, and the increase of dust from dry coop bedding and manure can cause an electrical fire.

When using artificial light for chickens in winter and throughout the rest of the year, be sure to keep the coop clean and dust levels down as much as possible. Pay extra attention to plugs and electrical outlets to make sure these sensitive areas stay clear of dust, dirt and debris.

Another thing to bear in mind is that chickens love to peck, so precautions should be taken to ensure electrical cords are kept away from curious beaks.

The best and safest way to add artificial light for chickens in winter during chore times is to use rechargeable LED work lights. These lights are long-lasting, provide a bright light to go about your morning and evening chores, and often come with a hook for an easy hang-up.

3. A Chicken Light Provides An Unnatural Lifecycle

Like all members of the natural world, chickens enjoy the natural rhythm of life throughout all four seasons. Adding a chicken coop light in winter disrupts this natural cycle, causing stress (see above) and health problems (see below for additional information).

While this is not a negative for every flock owner, if trying to imitate a natural life for your flock, adding artificial lighting to the coop may not be for you.

4. Chicken Coop Lights Can Shorten Lifespan

Rest is essential for a chicken to recover from egg laying and produce healthy eggs. While a hen is laying eggs, her reproductive tract is undergoing a lot of stress. This constant strain and wear and tear of laying causes inflammation in the reproductive tract.

When a hen’s body becomes inflamed, her chances of developing cancer and other reproductive problems increase. This is bad news for those raising hens for companionship as well as eggs, as oftentimes, these reproductive issues lead to shorter lives.

Another health concern to consider when adding artificial light for chickens in winter is that a hen’s body is more likely to become depleted of certain nutrients, including calcium, other minerals and protein, which are essential to stay healthy.

Chicken Coop Light: Final Thoughts

Artificial light for chickens in winter can be helpful for the flock owner, but it can be equally harmful for your flock of layers. When considering adding a chicken coop light, it’s important to know both the pros and cons so you can make the best decision for you and your flock.

This article about using a chicken coop light in winter was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

Butternut Squash: 5 Tips to Market Your Crop

Top view of many butternut squash
Adobe Stock/Firn

Butternut squash has steadily become a fall and winter favorite for farmers looking for a resilient, long-storing crop. While it may not have the same seasonal fame as pumpkins, butternut squash offers reliable growth, excellent storage potential, and the ability to provide income well into the winter and even spring months. The challenge, however, is finding enough customers to make expanding your butternut squash production worthwhile. Here are five practical ways to market, price, and sell this versatile winter squash.

1. Know How to Price Butternut Squash

You have two options when it comes to pricing butternut squash: by weight and by the unit. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to tell you which one to use or even how much to price per pound. Generally, the same rules apply to pricing these as anything else—figure out your production costs. How much did the seed cost? How much labor went into it? What were the storage costs? Are you the only farmer offering it all winter? All these factors play a role. Right now, the price can vary between 75 cents and $2 per pound (some in bigger markets might charge more), but if that doesn’t fit your needs, charge what is appropriate.

2. Sell Butternut Squash to Restaurants and Chefs

Restaurants typically order in bulk, and some prefer larger butternut squash with thicker necks. One beautiful thing about working with restaurants is the feedback loop—you learn what they did and did not like about a product, so you can bring something else or grow something that better fits their needs the following year. If a restaurant, for example, prefers the narrower necks for a specific preparation, you can try to gear your seed selection around that. Keep in mind that butternut squash is cheap and abundant for restaurants, so make sure to develop a good relationship with your customers in this sector in order to have the best shot at becoming their butternut person. One last note: Offer an individual price per squash and a buck price per unit to encourage them to purchase more.

3. Farmers Market: Selling Flexibility

There is a lot of flexibility when it comes to selling squash at the farmers’ market. Here you can sell them by the pound or individually, though I prefer selling them individually because it simplifies the transactions. However, that’s not always possible or necessarily how to get the best price. In terms of display, we often use the overflowing basket look, with butternut squash spilling out. A pile works well, too. Whatever you can do to make the crop look abundant.

4. Offer Butternut Squash in Fall and Winter CSA Shares

One of the best ways to get the most out of butternut squash is to offer it as part of your winter or fall CSA shares. Because they store well (as long as you store them in a relatively cool, dark place that does not freeze) you can reasonably rely on having them as an item in the CSA throughout the colder season. Add a couple of more storage crops and a couple of fresh greens, and you could go all winter.

5. Making Soups, Purees, and Other Products

Soups, purees, baby food and ravioli make some of the best value adds for butternut squash. You could also grow some of the wilder ones with curly necks for decoration around the holidays. Of course, any prepared foods will probably have to be made in a commercial kitchen, so be sure to follow your local legal guidelines.

This article about marketing a butternut squash crop was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

Rabbit Facts Every Hobby Farmer Should Know

rabbit facts include knowing what to feed rabbits including grass and hay
Adobe Stock/dsheremeta

Rabbit facts for hobby farmers can help give farmers more knowledge on what breeds are right for them and how to better care for their rabbits. These twenty rabbit facts for hobby farmers include breed trivia, meat and wool production, and more.

General Facts About Rabbits

#1 The American Rabbit Breeder Association (ARBA) recognizes fifty-two rabbit breeds. With so many breeds to choose from, it’s easy to find a rabbit to fit your specific wants and needs.

#2 A rabbit’s teeth are one of the most important parts of their gastrointestinal tract and continue to grow throughout their entire lives. While commonly believed that only the six front teeth (called incisors) continue to grow, the peg teeth, molars, and premolars also grow throughout the course of a rabbit’s life. Feeding rabbits hay is the best way to keep their teeth at a good length and avoid dental problems.

#3 Rabbits need to have access to food at all times to keep their digestive tract running smoothly. Going without food for twelve hours straight can cause a lot of problems for your rabbit, so provide hay at all times to prevent digestive problems.

Rabbit Facts: Raising Meat Rabbits

While rabbits can be raised for many reasons, their meat offers hobby farmers a practical reason to keep these small livestock.

#4 The New Zealand White is the most popular meat rabbit in the United States. These fast-growing rabbits reach market weight (8 – 11 pounds) within ten to twelve weeks of age. Prolific breeders, calm temperaments, and excellent meat-to-bone ratio make this rabbit a favorite among hobby farmers looking to raise their own meat.

#5 Other popular meat rabbit breeds include Californias, Champagne d’Argents, Creme d’Argents, and Silver Fox.

#6 Raising meat rabbits is a rewarding endeavor for many hobby farmers as they are smaller than other livestock, cost less money to raise, reach market weight sooner, and reproduce efficiently. An interesting rabbit fact for hobby farmers is that raising meat rabbits is a good way to earn some extra money, as well as raising some of your own food.

Pet and Show Breeds

More interesting rabbit facts for hobby farmers are that even if you don’t raise rabbits for meat, there are other reasons to raise them, including showing and raising rabbits to sell.

#7 The smallest breed of rabbit is the Netherland Dwarf. These petite rabbits can weigh as little as one to three pounds and are only bred for pets and the show ring.

#8 The largest breed of rabbit is the Flemish Giant. These big rabbits tip the scale between fifteen and twenty pounds.

#9 Rabbits are the ideal choice for children beginning 4H, as their cute faces and cuddly bodies make them appealing pets. Another plus to a rabbit is that their small body is easier for children to manage than larger livestock.

#10 The only breed of rabbit to have a mane is called the Lionhead.

Raising Wool Rabbits

More interesting rabbit facts for hobby farmers is that raising rabbits for meat is not the only way to turn a profit. Raising rabbits for wool is another way to earn some extra money.

#11 There are seven varieties of wool rabbits available today. American Fuzzy Lops, English Angoras, French Angoras, German Angoras, Giant Angoras, Satin Angoras, and Jersey Woolys.

#12 The German Angora is a popular choice among wool raisers despite the fact that it is the only wool breed not recognized by ARBA. The reason for the breed’s popularity is attributed to its prolific production.

#13 Another name for wool rabbits is fiber rabbits.

#14 Wool rabbits can produce twelve to twenty ounces of wool per rabbit annually. Some rabbits produce as much as four pounds per rabbit. While this might not sound like a lot, high-quality wool can sell for ten dollars or more per ounce.

Rabbit Facts: Foster Moms and Breeding

Looking for a good foster mother to have on hand in emergencies? Check out these rabbits to select a good foster mom for your needs. (Bear in mind that each rabbit is an individual and not all rabbits may be suitable to be a foster mom, even when selecting a breed known for their mothering ability.)

#15 The Silver Fox is not only a decent meat producer, but the females are excellent mothers and excel at fostering kits (baby rabbits). Another plus to this large breed is that the females produce enough milk to feed large litters, reducing the risk of losses.

#16 Dutch, Flemish Giants, Himalayans, and Mini Rex are also good foster moms. While these breeds may not serve as a good source of income for the hobby farmer, having some does on hand is a good way to minimize the loss of motherless kits.

#17  A female rabbit must already be raising a litter to successfully raise foster kits. Without kits of her own, the female will not be able to produce milk to feed the baby rabbits.

Feeding and Care Tips

#18 Growing arugula, endive, herbs, lettuce, radicchio, and other salad greens is a great way to help reduce feed costs, as well as provide your rabbits with a more natural diet alongside their pellets.

#19 Rabbits need hay to keep their digestive tracts running smoothly, but not all hay is good for them to eat. Alfalfa (a legume hay) is not a good choice for adult rabbits due to its high calcium and protein content. Timothy hay, orchard grass, and oat hay are the best hay options for adult rabbits.

#20 While often overlooked, rabbits face many predators and need to be provided with a completely predator-proof rabbitry to keep both adults and baby rabbits safe from harm.

Although small, rabbits still have a lot to offer the hobby farmer. Knowing these rabbit facts for hobby farmers will help you choose the right rabbit for your needs and raise healthy rabbits for meat, wool, and showmanship.

This article about rabbit facts was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Beekeeping

Honey Harvest Methods for Fall

Aged wooden bee hive boxes in autumn setting with bees making their honey harvest
Adobe Stock/Teri

Honey harvest season arrives as fall blooms fade and you begin preparing your autumn chores. Before you close up the hive for winter and wish your bees well, check your frames — you may have enough surplus for one last honey harvest of the year. Congratulations! A fall honey harvest is a beekeeper’s dream, though not every hive or season produces the same bounty. Most colonies in North America will consume 40 to 60 pounds of honey through the winter, so any amount beyond that is yours to collect and enjoy.

Harvesting honey is best done in two ways: the crushing method or the traditional Langstroth spinning method. Let’s look at the pros and cons of each.

Crushing Comb: A Simple Honey Harvest Method

It sounds like the name of a cool new band, but it’s really an ancient form of harvesting honey. Before the Langstroth hive was invented, there weren’t many other choices. This form of honey harvest requires entering the hive, cutting out the honeycomb (leaving brood comb, of course), and crushing it, usually by hand, into jars. Some people then, as today, enjoy bottling fully intact slices of comb into jars of pure honey—it has an aesthetic value, and it’s delicious (and looks beautiful on your stand at the farmer’s market).

The pros to this honey harvest method are good ones: You save a lot of time preparing an extractor and cleaning all of the equipment before and after. It’s also great for someone living in a small space who can’t store (or doesn’t want to rent) all of the honey harvesting equipment.

On the downside, it’s rather messy for a short period of time. But the biggest drawback is the loss of comb. Building a comb is far more energy and resource-intensive than simply storing honey, so you’re setting the colony back significantly by cutting out the comb. The bees will have to rebuild all of that before they can store honey again. If you do choose this honey harvest method, be conservative with how much you cut out. Also consider the time of year: fall is not the best time to cut and crush comb for honey—save this method for your spring harvest.

Spinning Frames: A Cleaner Honey Harvest Option

This might also sound like another great band name. But this honey harvest method refers to using established frames and “pulling” the honey out by spinning them in a cylindrical extractor that uses centrifugal force. For this to work, the frames must be the correct size for the extractor (no brood frames here) and will probably need the wire wax foundation to keep the comb from breaking.

On the positive side, this honey harvest method is a lot of work with various components, but it pays off: The result is a lightly strained, pure honey product that is easy to bottle, use and sell. The frames are eagerly reused by the bees, and you simply place the whole frame, with still-intact honeycomb on it, back in the hive for them to clean up and fill again.

This downside to this method, as mentioned above, is that it requires copious amounts of equipment, including the extractor itself, honey forks, wax knives, strainers and sieves, and food-grade buckets with the proper spouts.

It should be said that any method is quite a task, but the honey harvest is one of the most fun and rewarding parts of being a beekeeper (other than seeing your hives thrive). Harvesting honey is instant gratification: You go from a comb covered in tens of thousands of insects to beautiful, glistening, golden jars of the sweetest stuff on the planet in one afternoon. It’s well worth all the hard work put in throughout the year.

Fall Harvest: Final Thoughts

No matter which method you choose, a fall harvest is one of the most satisfying parts of beekeeping. Whether you prefer the simplicity of crushing comb or the efficiency of spinning frames, both approaches reward your season’s work with golden jars of pure honey. Take time to leave enough for your bees to thrive through winter, and you’ll set the stage for another successful honey harvest in spring.

This article about a fall honey harvest was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

Dutch Rabbit 101: Colors, Care and Personality

black and white dutch rabbit
Erin Snyder

The Dutch Rabbit, with its signature markings and sweet personalities, is easy to recognize and fall in love with. From history and temperament to breeding and color varieties, learn why the Dutch rabbit has become one of the most popular rabbit breeds.

Dutch Rabbit Origins

The Dutch rabbit was traditionally believed to have first been developed in the Netherlands or Holland, but despite their name, breed history suggests that the Dutch actually didn’t hail from these two countries.

In the 1830s, Petit Brabancons were imported from England to Belgium for the meat markets. Found in fifteenth-century paintings, the Petit Brabancon often had similar markings to the Dutch and possessed the same genetic roots.

While the rest of the breed’s history remains a mystery, its unknown origin has not impacted the breed’s continued success.

Even though they were initially raised for meat, today, Dutch rabbits are most commonly kept as pets and for show.

Recognizing a Dutch Rabbit

Dutch rabbits are easy to recognize with their distinctive markings. The head of the Dutch rabbit is a solid color sporting a white blaze down the face, which covers the nose, and grows thinner as it works up to the ears.

Behind the ears and neck area should be white, as well as the saddle (the upper body from the shoulders all the way up to the head and neck. The underside of the front half of the body (called the undercut) will also be white, and should form a complete, uniform circle around the body. The lower body and tail should be a solid color, i.e., blue, black, etc.

The front feet on a perfectly marked Dutch rabbit will be completely white, while the first third of a Dutch rabbit’s hind foot is also white; the rest of the foot remains a solid color.

Dutch Rabbit Color Varieties

Dutch rabbits come in a variety of colors, including black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, and tortoise.

Even though the Dutch rabbit comes in multiple colors, the black Dutch continues to be the most popular and iconic of the varieties.

Size and Weight of the Dutch Rabbit

Dutch rabbits fall into the category of small to medium, and weigh in at four to five and a half pounds. However, it isn’t uncommon for Dutch rabbits to get a little bigger than their ideal weight.

Health and Common Issues

The Dutch rabbit is generally healthy and is not prone to many diseases. Like all rabbits, the Dutch can have gastrointestinal problems, such as bloat, furballs, and other intestinal issues. However, eating a healthy diet should help to prevent digestive tract problems.

Dutch rabbits are also prone to external parasites, dental issues, and respiratory conditions. While these conditions aren’t usually a big concern, be sure to check your rabbits regularly for parasites, behavior changes, or other signs of illness. If your Dutch rabbit appears sick, take them to a qualified veterinarian for treatment.

Female Dutch rabbits are more prone to uterine cancer than other breeds. If kept as pets, spaying your females is advised. Clinical symptoms of uterine cancer include.

  • Blood in the urine
  • Difficulty breathing (Only seen in advanced cases where the cancer has spread to the lungs)
  • Fertility problems
  • Loss of appetite
  • Stillborn births

Many of these symptoms can be caused by other, less serious conditions, so be sure to take your rabbit to see a veterinarian to avoid a misdiagnosis.

How Long Do Dutch Rabbits Live?

The average lifespan of the Dutch rabbit is five to nine years. With some individuals living up to fifteen years of age.

Personality and Temperament

Dutch rabbits rank number three in the most popular of domestic rabbit breeds. With their endearing personality, it’s easy to see how the Dutch rabbit has continued to grow in popularity.

Easy-going, calm, curious, affectionate, and gentle, the Dutch rabbit is a good choice for families with small children. This friendly breed has never met a stranger and is not shy when interacting with humans, family pets, or livestock.

Dutch rabbits are very intelligent and can be trained to come when called, do tricks, and even run an agility course. With their active and fun-loving personalities, the Dutch is an interactive breed that loves nothing more than human attention.

Both male and female Dutch rabbits make ideal family pets and enjoy interacting with people. (However, potential owners should be aware that the males can be more smelly and messy than the females.)

Breeding Dutch Rabbits

Dutch rabbits are very fertile and are easier to breed than other rabbit breeds. This puts them at an advantage for novice rabbit breeders who are looking for an easy rabbit to raise a decent-sized litter.

Female Dutch rabbits’ gestation period lasts twenty-eight to thirty-two days. Each female should produce an average of six to seven babies (called kits) per litter. Unlike some other breeds, Dutch females make attentive and loving mothers. Dutch rabbits are such great mothers; some have even become foster moms to motherless kits.

When breeding for profit or show, female Dutch should be bred biannually, ideally giving birth in the spring and fall when temperatures are more moderate to avoid weather-related deaths in kits.

Why the Dutch Rabbit Makes a Great Pet

Dutch rabbits are not the best choice for those looking to raise their own rabbit meat or fur, or for those looking for a steady profit. However, if you are seeking a fun-loving, interactive pet for your backyard or hobby farm, the Dutch rabbit just might be the right breed for you.

This article was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Waterfowl

Duck Care Tips for Fall and Winter Prep

pekin ducks with proper duck care roaming a yard in autumn
Adobe Stock/Danita Delimont

Duck care in autumn means more than stocking up for feed and bedding for winter. Ducks require a few things at this time of year to keep them thriving all winter long, including run repairs, coop maintenance, predator protection and much more.

Duck Care in Autumn: Lawn Maintenance

It’s autumn, and it’s a fact about ducks that they are everywhere, engaging in their annual destruction of their run, the backyard, or wherever there happens to be a water source for ducks to play in. During the autumn months, ducks spend a lot of time engaging in a behavior nicknamed “mud drilling.”

When mud drilling, ducks splash water on the ground before beginning to tear away the grass with their bills. After the grass has been removed from the area, the ducks will splash more water to soak the ground, before digging with their bills in search of grubs. Depending on your flock’s dedication to the grub hunt, the size hole can vary from half-dollar to about the size of a chicken’s dustbathing hole.

Duck care in the fall includes filling in the holes with dirt and planting duck-safe, untreated grass seed, before covering the seed with straw to ensure regrowth in the spring.

Duck Care: Coop Cleaning and Maintenance

Fall is the perfect time to give your duck pen a thorough cleaning. With their delicate respiratory systems, ducks are more likely to combat illness over winter when housed in a dirty, dusty coop, so fall cleaning is a must on the autumn care for ducks to-do list.

Removing all the old bedding from the coop, and hosing down the walls and floor removes all the dust, dirt, and grime that accumulated over the past year.

While this job may not be fun, knowing your ducks’ lungs and respiratory system will be healthier makes the efforts worthwhile.

Managing Drakes in Autumn Duck Care

Oftentimes, during the breeding months of spring and summer, drakes become too vigorous and need to be separated from the female ducks. After the fall molt, drakes have calmed down, and in many flocks, it is safe to allow them to interact with the ladies.

One of the most interesting parts of autumn care for ducks is that during the autumn and winter months (until February when tempers once again begin to rise among drakes) is that most ducks enjoy commingling with the rest of the flock. Even drakes that seemingly can’t get along with each other the rest of the year can often be found enjoying each other’s company.

Predator Protection in the Fall

As it is in every season, predator protection is the most important part of autumn care for ducks. However, autumn is an even more critical time as predators become bolder to survive the winter.

House ducks in a completely predator-proof coop and run to protect them from a predator attack. Cover the roof and walls of the run as well as coop windows with half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth to ensure no predators can access the coop or run.

Attaching predator skirts around the outdoor perimeter of the run and coop helps prevent digging predators from accessing the flock by tunneling underneath the enclosures.

Last, but not least, never house ducks in a coop with a dirt floor, as these floors are easy for predators to gain access to the resting ducks. Instead, ducks should be housed in a safe coop complete with a concrete floor or a wooden floor resting on a concrete pad.

A Cozy Nest: Comfort-Focused Duck Care

Autumn care for ducks can help you make winter more pleasant for your flock. The winter chills and damp, snowy conditions can be hard on a duck’s joints, so extra care is needed to keep them comfortable.

In late fall, spreading clean straw on the floor of the run offers ducks a snug place to lie in the sun on a cold winter morning without harming their joints.

Ideally, straw bedding should be six to twelve inches deep to provide enough space between your duck’s feet and the cold ground. Refresh straw as needed.

Seasonal Treats for Autumn

Autumn care for ducks includes having fun with your flock, and what better way to do that than by feeding them some of their favorite seasonal treats.

During the autumn months, ducks love to munch on fresh cool-weathered greens from the garden, peas, grated raw sweet potato, broccoli, cauliflower, and dried black soldier fly larvae.

Autumn treats are beneficial as many of these treats are high in protein and other nutrients that help ducks recover from the fall molt.

Safety Tips for Fall

As in all seasons, autumn comes with its own unique set of safety tips to keep your flock healthy, happy, and thriving.

  • Due to birds of prey numbers increasing during the fall migration, keep ducks confined to the coop and run.
  • Autumn is the perfect time to stock up on layer feed and oyster shell to prepare for the first duck egg from young layers.
  • While ducks are not usually susceptible to internal parasites, sending in an annual fall stool sample to your local waterfowl vet is a good idea.
  • Autumn is the time when rodents try to take up residence in your snug coop. Protect ducks by rodent-proofing the coop, keeping mouse traps out of your flock’s reach, and avoiding the use of poison.

Duck Care Around Wild Waterfowl

Protecting your domestic ducks from wild waterfowl is an essential tip for autumn care for ducks. During fall and winter, large groups of ducks and geese gather on ponds, and if your pond is a wild waterfowl hangout spot, your flock could be in danger.

Wild waterfowl often carry diseases that can make domestic ducks (including Muscovies) sick and even kill them. Wild ducks and geese are also likely to injure domestic ducks in a battle, so keeping your flock off the pond is a good idea.

Another downside to allowing ducks on a pond is the inlet. Inlets bring water to the pond from other water sources that may be occupied by wild waterfowl. Therefore, your flock can still contract diseases such as the avian flu from drinking the infected water.

An Autumn Care Checklist

Fall can be a busy time of the year, so if you’re finding yourself trying not to forget anything on your autumn care for ducks list, creating a checklist can be helpful.

Final Thoughts on Autumn Care for Ducks

Autumn care will help your ducks stay comfortable and healthy all season long, and make a smooth transition into the winter months.

This article about duck care in the fall was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.