Chicken predator identification is important so chicken keepers know what has attacked their flock and how to prevent it from happening again by protecting your flock from common predators.
On a personal note…Tara and her young son, Beckett, had started the morning like any other: a short stroll in their backyard to the coop where their four hens lived. As they drew closer, however, Tara sensed something wrong. She told Beckett to wait, then approached the henhouse slowly—only to see a quartet of bodies slumped on the ground, motionless. Quickly, she took a confused Beckett back to the house and, once he was occupied, returned to investigate.
“It was like something made a hole in their chests and sucked the insides out. What did that to my chickens?” she asked me.
I get this question far too often. I hate to hear how birds, sometimes entire flocks, get decimated by nocturnal and diurnal predators. It’s happened to our flocks a handful of times over the years, enough so that I can look at a victim and identify the predator, whether raccoon, dog, weasel, fox, coyote or other.
If you find your flock has been attacked, here is a reference guide to chicken predator identification so that you can take proper precautions in the future.
Missing Heads
If you find your chicken with its head missing, chances are the attacker is a raccoon or a bird of prey, such as a hawk. Birds of prey will swoop down and scare chickens, who sometimes jump up in fear and get their heads caught in the netting or mesh that covers their run. A hawk or other bird of prey will then grab the head with its powerful talons and rip it off. Raccoons will also rip the heads off chickens through fencing, often reaching through at ground level to grab a chicken and pull its head off, leaving its body on the other side of the fence.
Missing Legs and Wings
A chicken whose mortal injury was the loss of a limb, such as a leg or a wing, was the victim of a raccoon. In this case, the raccoon reached through the fencing and caught hold of your bird’s limb instead of its head.
Wounds Near the Vent; Entrails Pulled Out
If your chicken is alive, with bite marks and lacerations around her vent, or if your bird is deceased, with intestines pulled out through her vent, the predator in question belongs to the weasel family. Weasels, minks, ferrets, badgers and martens wrap themselves around their prey’s body and attack the vent area. Members of the weasel family will also bite a bird at the base of the skull to kill it before feeding. (Here’s a video of how to identify predators with a simple scent station.)
This gruesome carnage signifies a common poultry predator, the raccoon. This type of predation pattern often occurs when a raccoon has gotten into a coop at night. It will typically feed on one or two chickens in this manner, then depart, leaving the remains behind.
Missing Birds
If one of your birds seems to have simply disappeared, or if there is nothing but a scattering of feathers in the coop, run or yard, the probable culprit is a fox. Foxes tend to kill or severely injure their prey, then carry them back to their dens, often to feed their kits. Coyotes and bobcats are also known to carry off their prey, as are hawks, owls and other birds of prey.
Missing Chicks
If you are missing one or more chicks, you might have a rat or opossum problem. Both predators grab infant poultry off an unguarded nest and carry them away. Rat snakes also prey on chicks, eating them whole. Another carnivore that targets chicks is the domestic cat, which tends to carry chicks off to play with this lively new toy elsewhere.
Missing or Damaged Eggs
A number of predators prey on poultry eggs. Snakes swallow eggs whole. Rats carry eggs away a short distance, then eat them. A skunk punches a hole into an egg, then sticks its muzzle in to lick out the contents. Raccoons and opossums tend to crush eggs to eat them, leaving behind a mess of mashed shell and oozing interiors. Blue jays and crows are known to occasionally prey on poultry eggs.
Bird Found Dead, No Sign of Injury
If you’ve found one or more of your birds dead with no apparent sign of foul play, your problem might be a dog. Descended from wolves, dogs still have a strong instinct to hunt and might harass and frighten your birds. In their panic to escape, your birds might pile up in a corner, one on top of the other, resulting in the suffocation and death of those on the bottom. A dog might also target a free-ranging bird, playing with it until the bird finally stops moving.
Bird Found Dead With Various Injuries
If the injuries that killed your hen don’t fit any of these patterns, among the predators stalking your flock might be an opossum or a feral cat. Both attack grown birds in a random fashion, doing whatever it takes to bring the prey down. We caught an opossum in the act of tearing the beak off our Araucana cockerel, Eduardo. The opossum did not survive that encounter, and poor Eduardo had to be euthanized. One of our Orpington hens, Mariel, encountered a feral cat in the woods. Fortunately, I found and rescued her, treated the horrible lacerations to her sides and belly, and—three years later—Mariel is still with us.
My friend Tara is still heartbroken about her hens, whom she had raised from baby chicks she purchased several years ago. This incident won’t stop her from raising chickens again, though. She already plans to try again next spring—as long as she and her husband have fully secured their coop and run from further attacks by raccoons and other predators.
This article about chicken predator identification was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
A strawberry and rhubarb shrub recipe is a winning combo and a great way to use up some of your rhubarb and fresh strawberries as they ripen. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as we do!
Yield: 3 to 4 cups finished shrub
Ingredients
2 total cups rhubarb and strawberries, chopped (fresh or frozen). Discard green leaves of the rhubarb, as they are poisonous, and hull the berries.
2 cups white granulated sugar
Days later: 2 cups organic apple cider vinegar (or other drinking vinegar of choice)
Directions
Wash strawberries and rhubarb, removing any bruised or damaged parts. Prep rhubarb and strawberries, and add them to a clean quart jar. Pour in sugar. Wipe the rim of the jar with a clean dampened towel to remove any sugar or fruit juice, apply the canning jar lid, and tightly screw on the ring.
Shake the jar vigorously to mix the strawberries, rhubarb and sugar together.
Store the jar at room temperature, out of direct sunlight. Allow the mixture to macerate over a couple days until a thick syrup is made. A few times per day, shake the mixture to speed up the process (or you can use a clean spoon to stir well).
After two to three days, once the sugar has dissolved and a syrup is made, use a fine mesh strainer to strain out the solids, reserving the syrup in a measuring cup. Use the back of a spoon to push out any excess syrup. Once strained, measure the amount of syrup that was collected and add that same amount of vinegar to the syrup (it will be 1.5 to 2 cups of vinegar), stir well to mix.
Store your strawberry rhubarb shrub in a clean, airtight jar and refrigerate. Enjoy within a few months for best flavor.
To Serve
Mix about one shot glass of the shrub mixture with water or carbonated water. Serve over ice. Shrubs also make delicious and unique cocktail mixers.
Side Notes
You can also use brown sugar, coconut sugar, maple syrup or other sugar alternative in place of white granulated sugar.
This method of shrub-making can be applied to any fruits-and-herb combinations.
Don’t toss the strained-out fruit solids! They are delicious mixed into plain yogurt or oatmeal, or blended into a smoothie.
This strawberry rhubarb shrub recipe was adapted for Hobby Farms magazine online from WECK Small-Batch Preserving (2018) with permission from Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.Click here to subscribe.
Rhubarb cake is top of mind in spring as it’s abundant in our gardens and easily found at the farmer’s markets.
Rhubarb is great because it can be used in a variety of different ways. Enjoy it fresh with a little dab of sugar, turn it into jam, bake it into a pie or create a delicious sauce with it, make a rhubarb shrub, plus so many more delicious culinary options.
Fresh Rhubarb is growing in the garden. Photo by manuta
While paging through my vintage church/school/other group cookbooks from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, I found a large variety of rhubarb recipes. I treasure the old cookbooks because the recipes contained in them are a collection of tried-and-true favorites from members of the various groups – the member’s family favorites.
Here is a great rhubarb cake recipe from one of the cookbooks, published 48 years ago.
Rhubarb Cake
Cake Ingredients
1.5 cups brown sugar
½ cup shortening
1 egg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. baking soda
2 cups all-purpose flour
1.5 cups rhubarb, finely chopped
Topping Ingredients
1.5 cup white granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. ground cinnamon powder
½ cup nuts of your choice, finely chopped
Directions
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Mix all of the cake ingredients together and pour batter into an 8×8” oven safe baking pan. Mix together all topping ingredients and evenly disperse it over the batter. Bake one hour.
Rhubarb cake recipe submitted by, Irene Keller. Shared form the 1976 copy of Dodge Center St. John Baptist DeLaSalle Catholic Women’s Cookbook. Iowa.
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Here is a second recipe for rhubarb cake that I found in another 1970s cookbook…
Rhubarb Cake
Cake Batter Ingredients
1.5 cups brown sugar
½ cup butter (recipe originally calls for oleo)
1 egg
2 cups white all purpose flour
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
½ cup buttermilk
1.5 cups rhubarb, chopped
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Topping Ingredients
½ cup white granulated sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon powder
1 cup coconut flakes
1 tbsp. butter, room temperature
Directions
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Beat brown sugar, room-temperature butter and egg together well. Sift flour, salt and baking soda into the mixture. Add buttermilk, rhubarb and vanilla and mix together well.
Combine the topping ingredients; mix together the sugar, cinnamon, coconut and butter. Sprinkle the topping over the cake before baking.
Bake for 40 minutes.
This rhubarb cake recipe was submitted by Mrs. Roman Rezac and Mrs. Harry Tuma. Shared from the 75 Years of Good Cooking cookbook, compiled by the Rosary Society Immaculate Conception Parish in Lonsdale, MN.
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Here is a bonus recipe for Rhubarb Meringue Pie, an alternative to rhubarb cake…
Rhubarb Meringue Pie
Ingredients
Pie crust (raw, either premade or freshly made with recipe of choice)
Filling Ingredients
1 whole egg and 2 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. white all-purpose flour
1.5 cups rhubarb, finely chopped
A pinch of salt
1 tsp. vanilla extract
Meringue Ingredients
2 egg whites, set aside for the meringue after initial baking
6 tbsp. white granulated sugar
Directions
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Mix together the sugar, flour and salt. Beat eggs slightly. Mix in the dry ingredients (sugar, flour, and salt mixture) to the eggs. Then mix in the rhubarb and vanilla extract.
Pour mixture in an unbaked pie shell and bake for 8 minutes at 375°F, then reduce the temperature to 325°F for 25 minutes, or until the center is set.
To make the meringue, beat the egg whites until stiff. Beat in the sugar. Once stiff, cover the entire pie with the meringue and bake 8 minutes longer, or until golden.
This rhubarb pie recipe was submitted by Loucille Howalt. Recipe shared from the Grandma Wore an Apron cookbook, compiled by members and friends of the Crippled Children’s Hospital in Sioux Falls, SD.
This rhubarb cake recipe article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
Goat treats are an essential part of our herd’s diet; however, as delicious as treats may be, they can also be harmful. Learn what healthy treat options will help goats live healthier lives and what treats to avoid in this exclusive guide.
Nutrient-Rich Treats
Goats love a variety of fruits, vegetables, and plants, so it’s relatively easy to find some healthy goat treats. While these treats may not contain the high levels of minerals found in hay or goat feed, they are a safe and fun treat to feed in moderation.
Apples
Apples are a delicious and fun treat to feed your goats. This sweet and tasty fruit is a good source of calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, and zinc. The minerals found in apples aid in many body functions, including milk production, feed-to-milk efficiency, and overall improved herd health.
Wash apples before feeding to ensure they are free of pesticides and insecticides. Always core apples and cut them into slices to avoid choking.
Feeding Directions: Feed no more than one apple per goat daily.
Carrots are among the healthiest goat treats to feed your herd. This vegetable powerhouse is loaded with vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients goats need to stay healthy and keep their immune system in tip-top condition.
Carrots are high in vitamins A, C, E, and K and calcium, manganese, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. They are also a good source of fiber, which helps feed and generate the growth of good bacteria in the colon.
Feeding Directions: Cut carrots into bite-size pieces to avoid choking. Like all goat treats, carrots should not exceed ten percent of a goat’s diet.
Dandelions
Like many fresh greens, dandelions are an excellent choice for goat treats. This hardy weed is one of the first plants to pop up in the spring and is considered antiparasitic, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer. Dandelions also help improve digestion, boost the immune system, and cleanse the blood.
This nutritious plant contains vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and K. It is also a good source of calcium, folate, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and zinc.
Feeding Directions: Both leaves and blooms are edible. Offer dandelions as a special treat throughout the growing season, or allow goats to eat their fill while in pasture. Dandelions are an excellent treat for weaned baby goats.
Herbs
Goats like fresh greens, so what better way to offer your herd some healthy goat treats than herbs from your garden? From basil, chervil, dill, fennel, oregano, parsley, sage, and thyme, herbs keep a goat’s digestive system running smoothly. They also help to prevent certain types of cancer and are a natural anti-inflammatory.
Herbs contain many vitamins and minerals, boosting the herd’s digestive tract and immune system.
Feeding Directions: Offer fresh herbs free choice daily to keep your herd healthy and thriving. When feeding dried herbs, follow the general rule of ⅛ teaspoon of dried herb per ten pounds of body weight.
Do not feed sage to lactating does, as it is known to reduce lactation.
Other Fruits and Vegetables
Other safe fruits and vegetables include blueberries, celery, grapes, lettuce, strawberries, squash, and seeded watermelon.
Feeding Directions: Cut fruit and vegetables into bite-size pieces to avoid choking. Vegetables and fruit should not exceed ten percent of a goat’s diet.
Treats to Avoid
Even though goats have a reputation for eating everything, some plants and foods are toxic to goats. Always ensure treats and plants are nontoxic before feeding to your herd.
Oak Tree Leaves
Goats enjoy munching on tree leaves; however, not all are safe for consumption. Green oak leaves from black, red, and yellow oaks contain high tannins. The high tannin levels result in kidney and liver damage when consumed in high quantities.
Be sure to keep your herd’s water source free of oak leaves. The tannins in oak leaves may also leach into the water, damaging the organs and leading to death.
Decorative Plants
Many decorative plants, such as perennials, annuals, and ornamental trees and bushes, are toxic to goats. However, just because they are considered toxic doesn’t mean you must remove them from the yard. Planting ornamental and decorative plants out of a goat’s reach will keep your herd safe and your lawn beautiful.
Toxic Weeds
Many weeds are toxic to goats, including Bur Dock, Cocklebur, Crowfoot Goatweed, Horse Nettle, Ivy, Jimsonweed, Johnson Grass, Lambs Quarter, Lily of the Valley, Milkweed, Mountain Laurel, Mustard, Philodendron, Poison Hemlock, Red Root, and Rhododendron.
Contact your local extension office for a complete list of toxic plants.
Too Many Goat Treats
Even though they may not be toxic, one of the worst mistakes goat owners can make is overfeeding their herd treats (even healthy treats). Overfeeding treats causes many problems, including goats becoming obese, milk production slowing or ceasing entirely, and an imbalanced diet.
Knowing what treats are safe and which ones to avoid will help goats live healthier lives. So, next time you head to the goat barn, grab some nutritious goat treats for a delicious and fun bonding experience with your favorite goat.
Replacing spark plugs on a small tractor. Photo by J. Keeler Johnson
Knowing how to replace spark plugs on a tractor, ATV, or UTV is a useful skill for any farmer to have. While spark plugs don’t require the regular maintenance schedule of other engine components, from time to time replacing spark plugs is a quick solution to engine troubles.
Fortunately, replacing spark plugs is a relatively straightforward task you can handle yourself, provided you have the right tools.
How spark plugs work
While spark plugs designs can vary, the basic principle is always the same. At the bottom of a spark plug are two electrodes (a central electrode and a side or ground electrode) with a narrow gap between them. During operation of the engine, a spark passes between the two electrodes, causing the fuel and air mixture inside the combustion chamber to ignite. This creates gas pressure that pushes on a piston, and the movement of the piston is converted into the rotational energy of the engine.
There’s a spark plug for each piston in a gasoline engine. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs since they ignite fuel with compression rather than sparks.
When to replace spark plugs
Spark plugs can go for years without needing attention. But if you’re having trouble starting an engine (even though the tractor battery is strong), or if an engine runs rough once it gets going, the spark plugs may be to blame. Replacing the spark plugs can restore the engine to proper working order and also improve fuel efficiency.
Choosing the right spark plugs
Some small gasoline engines might have only a single piston and spark plug. Larger ones have several. And unsurprisingly, spark plugs come in different sizes. The diameter and the distance between the electrodes are two important considerations.
The material from which the tips of the electrodes are made (copper, platinum, or iridium) can impact performance and longevity. Copper spark plugs have been around for ages, but platinum and iridium spark plugs last longer and may be necessary for high-performance engines. This is especially true of double platinum and double iridium spark plugs, which are designed with platinum or iridium on both electrodes rather than only the central one.
Fortunately, an average farmer doesn’t need to know the nuances of spark plug designs. Simply consult the instruction manual of your machine for a recommendation on the number and type of spark plugs you need.
How to replace spark plugs
The exact steps required to replace spark plugs may vary depending on your engine. Consulting the instruction manual for specifics is a wise idea, but the basics are as follows:
Do not replace spark plugs when the engine is hot; let the machine sit until the engine is fully cooled. Once you’re ready to begin, unhook the battery for safety.
Locate the spark plugs and remove either the spark plugs wires or the ignition coils, depending on whether your engine has spark plug wires or the “coil on plug” (COP) design. Be careful not to damage them, and keep track of which wire/coil goes to which spark plug.
Clean around each spark plug so debris won’t fall into the combustion chamber when you remove the plug. Then, using a socket wrench of the correct size, unscrew and remove each spark plug.
Before installing new spark plugs, you may need to confirm that the spacing between the electrodes—the “gap”—is correct. There are tools available to check the gap and adjust the spacing of the electrodes if needed. A wire feeler gauge or wire gap gauge is what you’re after.
After confirming the gap is correct, carefully thread the spark plugs into place and tighten with a torque wrench to the required torque, which will likely be detailed in your machine’s instruction manual. Once the spark plugs are in place, reinstall the spark plug wires or ignition coils, and don’t forget to hook up the battery.
Congratulations! Now you know how to replace spark plugs on tractors, ATVs, UTVs, and other gas-powered farm machines. And the process is much the same for gas-powered cars, so even a bit of automotive maintenance is now within your reach.
This article about how to replace spark plugs was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
Changing the oil filter on a garden tractor. Courtesy Daniel Johnson
Tractor filters come in numerous types, shapes, and sizes. You’ll find them across many of the tractor’s most important components, working behind the scenes to filter debris from the air and fluids that feed the tractor’s hard-working engine and related systems.
Regularly maintaining and replacing tractor filters is an important step to maximize your tractor’s performance and lifespan including your tractor battery. If it’s not already, make sure to add this to your tractor maintenance checklist. Not every tractor will have every type of filter, but let’s run through some of the most common filters and highlight the important jobs they serve:
Air filter
The air filter plays a huge role protecting an engine from damage and allowing it to perform at its best. Both gasoline and diesel engines require air to operate, and the air filter blocks dust, dirt, and other contaminants from entering (and damaging) the engine.
Since the air filter is responsible for catching all that grime, it must be regularly cleaned and/or replaced. Let an air filter get too dirty, and engine performance will start to suffer. Signs include reduced fuel efficiency and black smoke in your exhaust.
Filters are typically made from paper, foam, or synthetic materials. Your tractor may have multiple air filter components; consult your tractor’s instruction manual for guidance on cleaning and replacing the air filter(s).
Cabin filter
If your tractor has a cab, you may have a cabin filter that needs replacing. Cabin filters have nothing to do with engine performance; instead, they cleanse the air in your cabin so you can breathe easy.
Tractor cabins fall into four categories based on the level of protection they offer the operator. For farmers out plowing fields or baling hay, a Category 2 cabin that protects against dust might be all you need. But if you’ll be spraying pesticides, applying fertilizers, etc., you may need a Category 3 cabin (which protects against aerosols) or a Category 4 cabin (which blocks vapors too).
The category of cabin you need will obviously impact the type of cabin filter(s) you use. Consult your instruction manual for guidance on how and when to tackle filter replacing.
Fuel filter
Without fuel, an engine won’t run. And without a working fuel filter to cleanse the fuel, the engine won’t run for very long. Fuel contaminants—such as dirt and other small particles—can damage engine components if not filtered out.
As with any filter, the fuel filter must be regularly replaced; over time it will gradually clog, reducing fuel flow to the engine and stressing the fuel pump. Your machine’s manual will advise on how and when to change the fuel filter.
Oil filter
Oil is critical to maintaining the performance and well-being of an engine. Without oil providing lubrication, moving engine parts would quickly wear out. Oil also serves to dissipate heat generated by the engine.
To do its job properly, engine oil must be free of contaminants. Since oil inevitably picks up impurities as it circulates through the engine, the oil filter serves to cleanse the oil.
The oil filter should be changed on a regular schedule. Consult your machine’s instruction manual; you’ll likely find guidance on how often to change the filter. If you’re changing the oil anyway, replacing an oil filter can be a straightforward extra step that doesn’t take much time.
Other filters: hydraulic, DEF, etc.
Depending on your tractor, there may be other filters to replace. Hydraulic filter(s) for the hydraulics. On diesel tractors, a DEF filter for the diesel exhaust fluid. Perhaps a coolant filter if your tractor has a liquid-cooled engine. In each case the filter is serving to remove contaminants from a liquid to protect engine components and keep your tractor running in tip-top shape. Don’t overlook any of these tractor filters, and replace them as recommended by the instruction manual.
This guide to tractor filters was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
Brushhog cutter attached to tractor (Daniel Johnson)
A finish mower is a great tool for keeping a well-maintained lawn looking awesome, but not every farm field is ready for the manicured treatment that it provides. That’s where rough cut mowers come into play, and many farmers need both to keep their land tidy and clear of brush.
So what are the differences between both mowers? Let’s define both types and explore their pros and cons:
What is a finish mower?
A finish mower is designed to cleanly cut well-maintained grassy fields to short heights—under eight inches or so. Your typical riding lawn mower or zero-turn mower can be considered a finish mower, but when people use the term, they’re usually referring to a wide mower that is attached and towed behind or mounted to the three-point hitch of a larger tractor. Some can be more than a dozen feet wide, allowing you to quickly mow large areas.
Finish mower pros and cons
The obvious advantage of a finish mower is the tidy job it does cutting short grass. If you desire picturesque fields of rolling grass—the perfect pastureland—this will help make your dreams reality.
But this precision comes with limitations. Woody plants and overly tall or thick grass can choke or damage the blades of a finish mower. It’s not the right machine for going off the beaten path to clear overgrown fields. That’s the domain of a rough-cut mower.
What is a rough-cut mower?
A rough-cut mower (you might call it a brush hog, bush hog, brush mower, or field mower) isn’t designed to tidily mow short grass. Typically towed behind or mounted to a three-point hitch, a rough cut mower is built to plunge through overgrown fields hacking down tall and thick grass, woody brush, and—in some cases—even sapling trees. Comparatively, a rough-cut mower can seem almost indestructible.
You might think, “Wow, the blades on a rough-cut mower must be sharp to slice through trees.” Actually, the opposite is true. A rough-cut mower features thick, dull blades that bash through obstacles with sheer momentum. They can take a lot of hits while suffering minimal damage.
Rough-cut mower pros and cons
The upsides of a rough-cut mower are obvious. If a farm field has been abandoned for a few years and is overgrown with tall grass, brush, and small trees, mowing everything down with a rough-cut mower is a great first step to restoring the field to service.
On the downside though, a rough-cut mower lives up to its name and generates a rough cut. It’s not a precision instrument meant for manicuring grassy lawns and pastures. You might say it leaves the job unfinished, and you need to pair both mowers to achieve the best results. But before you tackle a second pass with a finish mower, you’ll need to clean up the worst of the debris the rough-cut mower left behind. Sapling trees don’t just pulverize into dust (though a rough-cut mower gives it a good try), and you don’t want to damage your finish mower by hitting hacked-off stumps or pieces of tree trunks.
If your farm fields are in good condition and you have the time to mow them regularly, a finish mower might be all you need. But for restoring abandoned fields, or for cutting back fields in which the grass has gotten too tall, you’ll want to have a rough cut mower on hand.
Hear about how 9/11 spurred Pattie on to start gardening, from zero interest to a need to plant a seed in the name of hope. She tells her story about how she went from growing food for her family to now traveling to learn about farming and to share her knowledge with others.
In 2008, the city Pattie lived in became the newest city in the US: Dunwoody, Georgia. From here, Pattie started following this burgeoning city’s development and was quickly named the Sustainability Commission Chairperson to help pursue Atlanta’s Green Community Certification, which included developing a community garden. (It’s now the largest volunteer-run community garden in Georgia!)
Pattie tells us about growing nearly $2,500 worth of vegetables per year from her suburban property. She talks about having witnessed the loss of the majority of her pollinators over the past 10 years and what she’s doing to educate others about this. With her daughters now out of the household, Pattie decided it was time to travel, and at 56 years old was scheduled to go to Uganda with the Peace Corps. COVID changed those plans — you have to hear about the drama of this situation — and left Pattie with a new travel plan.
If you’ve never planned to leave your garden behind for two years, Pattie talks about this process and then reversing the process when she realized she wasn’t going to Uganda after all.
Listen to Pattie’s tales of traveling around the U.S. for five months in 2023, working on farms and riding bus, bike and train. She explains the WWOOF concept — sometimes called Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms or Working Worldwide on Organic Farms — and how this educational exchange operates. Pattie talks about her $20 per day budget, traveling 10,000 car-free in the U.S.. Her book, Round America with a Duck, outlines all of this in a colorful and engaging way.
If WWOOFing has ever interested you, Pattie offers her advice for valuing your time and expertise while outlining your goals to get the best experience. She talks, too, about preparing yourself for a WWOOFing experience, whether you’re 60 years old (like her) or a college-age explorer.
A small number of turkeys can be raised in a relatively small area.
NEVISON FARMS
If you’ve raised chickens, you have a good basis for raising turkeys. Perhaps you’re considering raising some for the holidays. If so, keep in mind that most commercial breeds will mature between 14 to 22 weeks of age (or 25 to 30 weeks for heritage breeds). You’ll need to purchase birds in late May or early June (heritage) or July (commercial) to be ready come November. Here’s what you need to know to get started raising turkeys.
Eric Nevison from Nevison Farms, Minnesota, keeps Narragansett (pictured) and Royal Palms. NEVISON FARMS
Proper Housing for Raising Turkeys
In “Growing Your Own Thanksgiving Turkeys,” educator Katie Ockert with the Michigan State University Extension writes that turkey poults are raised very similarly to chickens. “They will need to be kept in a brooder for the first six weeks and can then be transferred into a coop setting,” she writes. “Turkeys will need a larger area to grow than chicks due to their size, and size requirements will increase as the turkey grows.”
Growing up to 3 feet tall, turkeys are big birds that require space to thrive. Their housing should certainly be appropriate for the number/size of the birds contained. This is where so many beginners go wrong. Ventilation is vital for all poultry and especially so with turkeys and their housing doesn’t have to be anything too fancy.
I kept my five birds in an 8-by-6-foot garden shed. Old barns/stables can also be easily converted for housing turkeys. Following advice on ventilating, I bored two holes, under each apex to allow a good cross-flow of air. I then covered these holes with a fine wire mesh to prevent admitting vermin.
My birds roosted securely in this shed, spending most of the day roaming outside in my securely fenced orchard. Turkeys like to perch; a 3-inch round wooden pole placed about 3 feet off the ground will provide them with a very comfortable roosting spot.
Whatever form of housing you employ when raising turkeys, I can’t overemphasize the need for adequate ventilation. With poultry, many of us think we need to keep our birds snug and warm, but what we really need to do is keep the air inside the house fresh and moving. This will prevent moisture and ammonia build up, thus keeping birds comfortable and healthy.
Fencing for Raising Turkeys
I used 6-foot high wire fencing when raising turkeys to keep my birds contained and keep out the predators. This works effectively with the stags (male turkeys) but not always so well with the inquisitive hens. Lighter heritage breeds often retain a good flying power.
However, if you keep your birds occupied and they have enough space (a breeding pair will require 90 square feet of space as a minimum) — and providing that they’re well fed —you shouldn’t have too much of a problem with them straying.
Don’t allow turkeys to roam free in the average garden as they’ll quickly destroy new plant growth and flowers. Containing curious turkeys will also allow you to keep them away from harmful plants and other potential hazards.
Sheralan Marrott of Red Top Ranch, Tennessee, raises Bourbon Reds. S. MARROTT/RED TOP RANCH
Feeding Turkeys
Just like chickens, raising turkeys requires a starter crumb (when they are very little), then they are moved onto a grower pellet and, finally, onto a maintenance pellet when they’ve matured.
You can’t however feed a diet suitable for a chicken to a turkey. Turkey poults (chicks) have a far higher protein requirement than young chickens. Feeding them chicken pellets would certainly lead to all kinds of growth and health problems. Thankfully, your local feed-supply store will carry specially formulated turkey feeds that have the necessary protein amounts.
A turkey starter crumb will contain a protein count of between 22% to 24%, and this is usually fed until the poults are 5 to 8 weeks old. This will contain all the protein, trace elements and micronutrients required for normal early development.
Check the manufacturer’s recommendations but, around the 5-to-8-week stage, most poults can slowly be moved across to the growers pellet (preferably one made by the very same manufacturer as that of your chosen chick crumb). Grower pellets have a lower protein count of around 20%.
Turkeys that are fortunate enough to range over a field or orchard will, of course, supplement their pelleted diet with grass and all manner of insects, spiders, worms and even lizards. They also adore treats such as plums, apples, sweetcorn, etc. Cabbages, hung up in their living quarters are excellent at relieving boredom, giving these highly inquisitive birds something to peck at.
A maintenance diet pellet — consisting of 16% protein —is given when the birds reach adulthood. Once turkeys mature, they’re surprisingly hardy birds and capable of surviving the harshest winters completely unscathed.
Ask the Experts
All of us have different regimes when it comes to raising turkeys. I always find this fascinating and informative and a great way to pick up tips. I interviewed two turkey keepers, Eric Nevison from Nevison Farm, Minnesota, who keeps Narragansett and Royal Palms, and Sheralan Marrott of Red Top Ranch, Tennessee, who keeps Bourbon Reds.
Housing:“Currently all our birds live in a barn together,” Nevison says. “I created a coop inside it — two stalls wide — but since the flock has grown so much bigger, we just keep the door open and let them walk around and roost where they see fit each night.”
Marrott has a similar setup. “I have a pen and big coop — part of a barn — for mine for nighttime that has plenty of roosting spaces,” he says. “They prefer a roof overhead to protect them from rain and snow. Mine free-range during the day, and in the summer, they need lots of shade, fresh air with a breeze and shallow dishes of water to stand in to cool down. If predators/extreme weather aren’t a problem, roosts under a shed roof would likely be fine for adult turkeys.”
Fence Height:“Heritage breeds are lighter and better at flying than the broad breasted,” Marrott says. “I have a 4-foot fence, and my turkeys hop/fly over it — even with clipped wings! They then suddenly forget how to fly back, pacing the fence until I help them. In my, admittedly limited experience, grown toms don’t do this, but youngsters and hens looking for a spot to go broody do. I could only guess that a 6-foot fence might keep them in place if their wings were clipped.”
Nevison had a different take. “Turkeys are birds but are not keen on flying unless they need, too,” he says. “Most of ours roost 4 foot from the ground in our barn. I’ve never seen any of our turkeys fly up high, and I think this is possibly because they know that the barn/farm is a safe area with no predators, etc.”
Feed: Nevison feeds his birds corn, wheat mash and black oil sunflower seeds as a main base. “We also bring them all our scraps,” he says. “They will devour a smashed-up pumpkin or squash.”
Marrott insisted that turkeys need a higher protein diet than chickens. “For the first 12 weeks of life, I like a starter feed that’s 28% protein,” he says. “Then I go to a lower protein feed — but at least 20% — for the rest of the time.”
Worming: Do turkeys need worming?This was a particularly interesting question for me as I’m very keen to remain as close to nature as possible with my particular birds.
Marrott hasn’t had to deworm his turkeys in the three years he’s had them. “They have access to wooded and pasture acreage all day, so this likely helps,” he says. “When they are poults, I add herbs to their food and water to keep their systems strong and prevent parasite overload.”
Nevison agrees. “We’ve never wormed any of our birds,” he says.
Heritage Birds
All around the world, more people are going back to the older ways, and when it comes to raising livestock, more and more of us are applying the principles of slow food. This philosophy (started by Carlo Petrini in Italy in the 1980s) envisions a world in which all people can access and enjoy food that is good for them, good for those who grow it and is good for the planet.
Slow food is based on three interconnected principles:
Good: Quality, flavorsome and healthy food.
Clean: Production that doesn’t harm the planet.
Fair: Accessible prices for consumers and fair pay/conditions for workers.
Commercial poults pile on weight fast and grow at an astonishing rate: The toms have so much breast meat they can’t mate naturally (also often suffering skeletal disorders and leg issues) and the hens need artificial insemination. As a more sustainable and ethical alternative, many turkey breeders and consumers are increasingly turning away from those monstrously huge breeds and turning to heritage breeds, which are closer in size and hardiness to their wild ancestors. These birds — although taking longer to rear — also happen to be flavorsome and succulent.
To get started raising turkeys, you’ll need a least a pair of turkeys. They need companions, and a single turkey would not do well all by itself.
These Royal Palm (left) and Slate (right) male turkeys are heritage breeds. JOHNATAPW/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Popular Turkey Breeds
Some of the popular heritage breeds when raising turkeys include the following.
Bronze:This is the bird most people would think of if asked to describe a turkey. With that iridescent sheen upon its feathers — this is the bird of farmyard paintings — familiar to us all. It is the patriarch of all the turkey varieties.
However, rather surprisingly, due to the public’s preference for white birds (that produce a clean-looking carcass with no ugly dark feather stubs) and the commercial breeding of exaggerated, huge-breasted birds – the Bronze faced near extinction in the 1970s. Thankfully a small core of breeders took the Bronze under its protective wing. Show birds are kept to a more normal weight range that doesn’t exceed 24 pounds.
Narragansett:This all-American beauty descends from Black turkeys (brought to America by European settlers in the 1600s) being crossed with wild native turkeys. This has created an extremely hardy bird. Little supplemental feeding was given to these turkeys; they found most of what they needed on the farm.
For a while, although never quite reaching the acclaim of the Bronze, the Narragansett was extremely popular (especially so in the Midwest/mid-Atlantic States) but slowly it fell into the Bronze’s shadow and was finally eclipsed by it. The recent interest in slow food and appreciation for flavorful meat has once again brought this Cinderella of the turkey world out in the limelight.
American as Apple Pie
The wild turkey is native to North America and is a true American icon. Domestication began 2,000 years ago by Native Americans who, very much like now, penned them and used their meat, feathers and bones. For those lucky enough to have wild turkeys visiting the bird feeders in the backyard, you’ll know that the process of domestication must have been relatively simple! They are big, curious birds with a hearty appetite and soon get tame.
All the different breeds, with their dazzling array of colors and feather patterns, found around the world today are descended from the wild birds that fortunately still roam the forests of North America. So, if it’s so American, why is it called a turkey?
Linguist Mario Pei puts forward an interesting idea to explain the bird’s name. He proposes that the first turkeys imported to England came not from North America but via merchant ships from the East. The importers lent their name to these birds, so they became known as turkey cocks/turkey hens — and the name subsequently stuck — the usage becoming widespread.
Author Layla Eplett writes in “Talkin’ ‘Turkey:’ The Linguistic Link Between the Bird and the Country,” a blog for Scientific American, that Pei thinks during the 15th and 16th centuries, the bird’s arrival in Great Britain came via Turkish merchants in Constantinople, who had orignally imported the birds from America. “The British had a lackadaisical habit of naming things after where they arrived from, rather than the place they originated,” she writes. Read more at https://bit.ly/3QGom1d.
Royal Palm:Now for all those who shudder at the turkey’s supposed ugliness: Take a good look at the Royal Palm. These regal stunners first appeared on a farm in Florida in the 1920s —arising randomly from crosses between Narragansett/Bronze and wild turkeys.
These small, active, gloriously colored birds can produce a very good meal for the average family. The hens are also prolific egg layers.
Royal Palms are closer in size and weight (no more than 22 pounds) to their wild ancestors. They make excellent foragers and prove very useful in keeping down numbers of insect pests. Be aware, though, as a light breed, the Royal Palm can certainly fly a bit when the need arises!
Bourbon Red:This distinctive bird, with its rich red feathering was developed in the early 1900s. Once again, it’s a smaller bird, that has high heat tolerance. Former New York Times food columnist Marian Burros declared the Bourbon Red “the tastiest turkey in America,” sparking a nationwide interest in heritage breed turkeys.
Other Breeds:The Livestock Conservancy, a nonprofit membership organization whose mission is to protect endangered livestock and poultry breeds from extinction, and the American Poultry Association also list the following heritage turkey breeds, in addition to the ones I’ve listed: Beltsville Small White, White Holland, Black and Slate.
Blackhead Disease
Turkey poults are generally regarded as being far more delicate than young chickens; they can certainly be more prone to disease and one of the most feared of these diseases is blackhead. This is caused by a protozoan worm that chickens carry, but turkeys suffer from — empathizing the point many turkey keepers make — the necessity to keep chickens and turkeys separate.
Worming every six weeks when raising turkeys disrupts the life cycle of this destructive worm. Several organic breeders now use herbs such as oregano in the feed as well as taking the preventive measure of keeping poults well away from chickens and land where chickens have been kept.
Raising Turkeys for Eggs
Turkey hens take longer than chickens to mature in the egg-laying department. They typically reach it at 7 months but can take up to a year. And while a chicken might lay almost an egg a day, turkeys only lay two to three eggs a week.
Turkey eggs are bigger and have a higher protein content than chicken eggs, and some say a richer taste. Their eggs are usually a creamy white color with speckles and tougher shell.
Turkey hens (females) are smaller than toms (males) and don’t have elaborate tail plumage. NEVISON FARMS
Before you buy any turkeys, check with local authorities, especially if you live in the suburbs, that raising turkeys (or indeed any poultry) is actually allowed. Many modern houses — even those on large plots — don’t allow any livestock to be kept. Make thorough checks before getting started raising turkeys; it would be heartbreaking to settle your birds in and get used to them being around to then be forced to give them up later.
Remember that all poultry needs looking after 365 days a year. Who (in your circle of family or friends) will be willing to feed/water your birds whilst you are away on vacation? And whilst a lot of people who would happily tend a few pet chickens, many would feel rather intimidated by the size and appearance of turkeys.
And last, but not least, it’s always better to retain a cordial relationship with your neighbors. Male turkeys will make their famous “gobble-gobble” sound at the slightest provocation, and hen turkeys aren’t exactly silent either! Therefore, to maintain positive neighborly relations, inform them of your plans and win them over to your ambitions of raising turkeys.
Raising chickens for beginners can seem daunting. Here are 15 bits of wisdom from experienced chicken keepers that they wish they’d known before getting chicks.
1. Health Knowledge
I wish I had read more about common chicken ailments before getting chickens.
Finding a large-animal veterinarian in many areas of the country is difficult, but finding vets with a poultry persuasion can be even more difficult. When raising chickens for beginners, the key is finding a vet who will care for chickens before you need him or her, if possible. If no vets with poultry experience are available, read as much as you can about common ailments, how to diagnose ill chickens and how to care for them.
“Chickens get sick,” says Christine Wright of Stamping Ground, Kentucky. “Be ready for it, don’t beat yourself up and don’t give up.” Also, don’t underestimate the knowledge (and concern) of online chicken communities. Consider joining a quality chicken group on social media or through a poultry website, and bookmark blogs that provide guidance for chicken owners.
Learning how to do a lot of things for yourself is often the key to successful chicken-keeping especially when raising chickens for beginners. “I learned how to make a nontoxic [balm] out of food coloring to cover wounds and bald spots to prevent other chickens from pecking the area,” says Kimberly Jakubec of Austintown, Ohio. Other chicken owners learned on the fly how to administer penicillin shots. Amanda Estep of Georgetown, Kentucky, wishes she’d known what medications to have on hand and how to deworm.
Bottom Line:Locate a vet or have a chicken community at the ready to help you through injuries, ailments, and emergencies.
If you mail-order chickens, be sure you don’t get a whole flock of males without a plan for rehoming them. STEPHANIE FREY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
2. Arrival Instructions
I wish I had truly understood how chickens arrive when you mail-order them.
“Read the fine print from hatcheries if ordering online,” says Melanie Sprinkle from Lexington, Kentucky. “Males packed for warmth” is an important phrase and one to consider if you’re delving into chickens with children in the household. “We received 21 male chicks to go with nine females we ordered,” Melanie says.
“Even if you buy what’s advertised as only pullets, it’s not a guarantee unless you’re getting a sex-link breed where males and females look different at hatch,” says Maddie Johnson of Georgetown, Kentucky.
Bottom Line:Be prepared to think outside the box for end-of-life decisions if keeping roosters is not on your agenda.
3. Dirty Birds
I wish I had known how dusty chicks are.
“I wish I had known how much dander chicks give off and how dusty their brooder can get between their feathers coming in and the pine shavings,” says Julie Jacobson of Whittier, North Carolina. “I also didn’t know I would be allergic to baby chicks! I brooded chicks in my home twice because it was too cold outside, and from now on, any baby chicks I get will have to be raised by mama hens outside in the coop!”
Kristin Werner of Georgetown, Kentucky, agrees. “It really is surprising how much dust things so little can kick up! Having a broody hen do the chick-raising work outside in the coop for my second round of chicks was clutch.”
Bottom Line:Buy extra cleaning supplies, and be prepared to dedicate time to cleaning around their brooder if raising chicks indoors. Additionally, when raising chickens for beginners, if family members suffer from allergies or asthma, think long and hard about raising chicks indoors.
Many breeds are cold-hardy and aren’t concerned with falling temperatures. BLESSINGS CAPTURED/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
4. Temperature Control
I wish I had bought a brooder plate.
Chicks can be fickle, especially about temperature, and human homes are often nearly 20 to 30 degrees too cold for them to survive. Newly hatched chicks require temperatures of 95 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week, with required temps dropping by 5 degrees each week until they’re ready to live outside.
Fire in coops or homes is a very real concern when using heat lamps to keep chicks warm – even those specifically designed for use with newly hatched birds. It’s imperative that you use a base specifically made for heat bulbs, which can damage inappropriate lamps. Bulbs should be kept a minimum of 2 feet from combustible materials.
Because of this, “just get the brooder [heat] plate!” is a common refrain and those who hatch out multiple clutches will rest easier knowing that the heat source they’re using is safer and more energy efficient than a heat lamp.
Additionally, the heat plate’s lack of a bulb can reduce the likelihood of behaviors sometimes seen with clear heat lamp bulbs, such as the interruption of the chicken’s sleep cycle, higher stress or feather picking.
Bottom Line:Buy the plate.
5. Hardiness
I wish I had known how cold-tolerant chickens are.
Many chicken owners, especially those in the Northeast, are concerned about their chickens staying comfortable in colder temperatures. While this is a concern, hens often struggle more in warmer weather.
If you’re raising chickens for beginners, diligent research about the breeds best suited to your climate is key. While some adaptations can be made to keep hens comfy, it’s often easier to get breeds that won’t struggle in your climate.
Concerned about the chilly weather, Jacobson placed her coop in a sunny spot. “I wish I would have placed the coop in the shade because the summer sun is way harder on them!” she says. “We ended up having to build a covered run to give them relief from the heat.
Bottom Line: Research breeds diligently before bringing baby birds home.
KORY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM l
6. A Big Chicken Coop is Better
I wish I had built a bigger coop.
When it comes to hen shelter, bigger is often better. “I wish I had bought or built our coop with cleaning in mind,” says Krista Lea of Versailles, Kentucky. “Our coop has a small inside part above the ground area and I can’t get it clean; you have to crawl in to even make a good attempt! I really want a full-sized shed I can walk into and sweep out.”
Estep says that putting linoleum on the floor of her coop was a game changer. Also, learning about the different types of bedding and the amount of dust and breakdown each has, as well as how often it needs to be cleaned was imperative to keeping her flock healthy.
“Truly, you need at least double the size of coop you think you need,” says Marion Maybank of Missoula, Montana.
Bottom Line:Whatever size coop you think you need, build bigger.
7. Security Risks
I wish I had known what “predator proof” was.
“Almost everything will try to eat your chickens, so chicken wire is the worst choice when building runs and coops, despite its name,” Jakubec says. “A cement pad is a great investment for an enclosed run for predator control [to keep them from digging under the fence] and you can add dirt and sand and grow greens in it for the chickens, too!”
Protecting the flock is often the biggest challenge a backyard flock owner will face. When raising chickens for beginners, it can be shocking how cunning (and dedicated!) predators can be when trying to get a tasty chicken treat, so ensuring that chickens return to roost at night is imperative to their safety.
Never let chickens roost outside, and use ¼-inch hardware cloth — even on windows —to keep predators at bay. You’ll need to bury the cloth to thwart predators from tunneling under the coop and invest in complex latches to keep raccoons from opening coop doors. Additional measures that may be helpful include using livestock guardian animals or guinea hens to alert the chickens (and you) to danger.
Bottom Line:There is no such thing as too many measures to help keep your chickens safe from predators.
Chickens can be very dusty. FOTORAUSCHEN/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
8. Chickens Like to Dig
I wish I had known how much they dig.
Leah Alessandroni of Midway, Kentucky, wishes she had known how much they dig. And we don’t mean just shallow depressions for dust baths. Chickens can create deep holes in yards and gardens, making chicken keepers susceptible to a rolled ankle if they’re not careful. Once a hole has been started, it’s difficult to get chickens to leave it alone. Of specific concern are holes dug near fence lines; if hardware cloth isn’t buried, chickens may dig deeply enough to escape their enclosure.
Bottom Line:Fence chickens out of areas where you’d like to prevent repeated holes and be cognizant of holes near fence lines.
9. Socialize Chickens Early
I wish I had handled them more.
Chicks are so tiny that you may be reluctant to hold them for fear of injuring them. While care should be taken, it’s helpful to hold and handle chicks regularly. “Handling them [chicks] often while they’re young makes it much easier to provide care and examine them when they’re adults,” Estep says.
This handling is especially helpful when battling “pasty butt,” a condition that requires a chick to beheld and her vent be cleaned with warm water to ensure their health.
“Let your kids socialize them,” says Paige Adams of Eddyville, Kentucky. They’ll get used to being handled quickly!
Bottom Line:Handle chicks often to ensure their wellbeing later in life.
Chickens bring so much joy to a home. CHERRYANDBEES/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
10. Be Secure
I wish I had understood biosecurity better.
Accidentally introducing disease into your flock is a difficult lesson to learn, and once you see how sick chickens can get, it’s a mistake you won’t want to repeat. Asking if chicks have been vaccinated for coccidia (or feeding them medicated feed) can save you a lot of trouble down the road. “I also get my chicks vaccinated against Mareks,” says Lindsey Leach of Harrodsburg, Kentucky.
Always quarantine new flock members for at least two weeks, don’t share tools or supplies with other chicken keepers (or be sure to disinfect them well when they come home), and know the signs of illness.
Bottom Line: Having stringent biosecurity measures in place will keep your flock healthy and happy.
11. Quality Tools Rule
I wish I had invested in quality tools. If you want to fast-track your way to chicken-keeping frustration, buy cheap tools. “Invest in a nice 5-gallon feeder bucket and galvanized waterer with the heated base,” Adams says. “All the money you spend on the cheap, plastic ones is wasted when they crack!”
Lea says that chick nipple-style drinkers make a huge difference in keeping the water clean and the brooder dry. Quality puppy playpens are also helpful in containing chicks and thwarting frustration, says Leach.
“I wish I had known about poop trays when I first got chickens,” says Patty Broner of Sadieville, Kentucky. “Build you roosts with a tray underneath them, fill the tray with [nesting/bedding material], and spend 5 minutes every morning cleaning the ‘litter box’ with a scoop and a bucket. This saves a ton on bedding as most ‘poopage’ happens at night while the hens sleep. It also greatly reduces the smell and almost no flies!”
Bottom Line: Spend the money upfront to reduce frustration later.
Amanda Estep of Georgetown, Kentucky, wishes she’d known what medications to have on hand and how to deworm her flock. COURTESY AMANDA ESTEP
12. Automate the Chicken Coop
I wish I had automated everything.
“Automate whatever you can,” Estep says. This could include installing a solar-powered coop door on a timer (and that has a remote), using big gravity-fed feeders, placing coop lights that are on timers or utilizing solar-powered fans for moisture control and cooling.
Bottom Line:Installing automated tools saves time and energy.
13. Free Eggs Aren’t Free
I wish I knew that I wouldn’t be saving any money on my egg bill.
Though your grocery bill isn’t likely to decrease with the acquisition of chicks, your eggs will be better tasting than anything you could buy in a store. Additionally, think of all the other benefits you’ll receive, such as fertilizer, bug patrol and elimination, endless entertainment, aeration assistance and so much more.
Bottom Line:Backyard birds will give you the tastiest eggs you’ve ever had and a bunch of other bonuses.
14. Learn Math
I wish I knew that chicken math is real.
It’s a legitimate thing; ask anyone with a backyard flock. “You start out wanting four, but two weeks later, you want more and magically four chickens turns to eight,” Adams says. “Then you find a ‘chicken dealer’ and before you know it you have 20 because you always see another pretty breed you must own.”
Bottom Line:“They become a lifelong addiction,” says Amanda Reho of Midway, Kentucky.
Chickens dig holes to bathe themselves and to simply have fun. It’s a natural behavior, but it can be annoying. DUNCAN ANDISON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
15. Joy to the World
I wish I had known how much happiness they would bring me.
“I wish I knew how easy it is to have them,” says Elizabeth Finnegan of South Beloit, Illinois. “I wouldn’t have put it off for so long! They have a lot more personality than one might expect, and they really are very low maintenance.”
“I never knew how much I’d be entertained watching chicken TV,” Broner says.
Bottom Line:Chicks will enhance your life in more ways than you could ever dream.
This story about raising chickens for beginners was written for Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
