Categories
Food Recipes

Beef Jerky Recipe: A Homemade Dehydrated Treat

beef-jerky-recipe
Photo by Fabio Balbi

A good beef jerky recipe makes a convenient snack to grab on the go. It makes an ideal food to take along fishing, hunting or when going out on a hike. It’s packed with protein and flavor and is lightweight to carry along. One pound of meat dries to just four ounces after dehydration. Because jerky is packed with protein, it’s a great option to fuel the body and is a wonderful treat to bring along when camping.

You can make jerky out of many different types of meat, including fish, chicken, buffalo, and venison. But my favorite jerky is beef jerky.

The process of making beef jerky is fairly simple. It requires thinly sliced beef to marinate for a period of time (this flavors and tenderizes the meat) and then dried either using a food dehydrator or an oven.

It’s important to use a lean cut of beef, ideally top-round or bottom-round beef.

How to Make Beef Jerky

Yield: 1/4 pound of dehydrated beef jerky

Ingredients:

1-pound lean beef, such as top round or bottom round

Beef Jerky Marinade:

1/2 cup Braggs Amino Acids
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. ground garlic powder
½ tsp. onion powder
¼ tsp. ground black pepper

Before Drying:

Optional: Sprinkle crushed red pepper flakes and garlic powder over marinated meat before dehydrating.

beef-jerky-recipe
A Pile of Hot and Spicy Beef Jerky with Red Pepper Flakes. Photo by pamela_d_mcadams.

Beef Jerky – A Two-Part Recipe

Part 1: Slice and Marinate Beef

In a medium-sized bowl, mix all the marinade ingredients.

Slice meat across the grain, into long, ¼-inch thick strips. Trim away any fat from it, as fat can cause the jerky to spoil faster and also may cause an off taste.

Place the meat into a large gallon-sized resealable bag and pour the marinade ingredients over the meat until it’s completely submerged. Tightly seal up the bag and place it into a bowl to collect any marinade droppings that may leak from the bag.

Allow the meat to marinate 12-24 hours.

Part 2: Heat and Dry Beef Jerky

The USDA recommends beef jerky be heated to 160°F to ensure its safety. Heating to the noted temperature before drying will guarantee that any bacteria present will be destroyed. If your food dehydrator does reach 160°F, you can skip the next step and dehydrate the beef at 160°F.

If you do not have a food dehydrator that reaches 160°F, pour the meat and marinade into a medium-sized saucepan and warm until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 160°F.

Heat oven or food dehydrator to 130 -140°F (or 160°F if you skipped the previous step).

Remove the meat strips from the marinade and allow the excess marinade to drip away.

Place the beef strips on a dehydrator rack or baking sheet. Space them so that none of the pieces are touching. Dab away any marinade droplets with a paper towel. Sprinkle the meat with more garlic powder and/or crushed red pepper flakes, if you so desire.

Cook for a minimum of 6 hours. The jerky is done when you can bend in half and it cracks, not breaks. You don’t want to dry it until it snaps, if it snaps, it is overly dried and will be hard to chew. If it is very rubbery, it’s not completely dried yet – allow it to dry another 30 minutes and check again. The smaller pieces will dry faster and can be removed from the dehydrator/oven while the rest continue to cook.

Store in an airtight container and keep what you aren’t eating refrigerated for longer storage. Enjoy within one month. Or freeze jerky in an airtight container. If frozen properly, ideally vacuum sealed, jerky will last years.

Additional Notes for Making Beef Jerky:

Foodborne illnesses are completely avoidable. Always wash your hands, prep space and cooking utensils before beginning to preserve food.

Do not reuse the marinade.

If you don’t want to slice the meat yourself, ask the butcher at the meat counter to do it for you.

This beef jerky recipe article was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms magazine.

Categories
Animals Large Animals

Raising Sheep: How to Treat Wool Loss

sheep
Older ewes can suffer wool loss, especially when carrying twins. Their body diverts nutrients from wool production into supporting the lamb they are carrying.

When raising sheep, wool loss can be a warning sign for shepherds. Also called wool slip or wool break, this usually presents as a thinning of the fiber, resulting in wool falling out, breaking easily and becoming patchy. In most cases, it not only reduces the value of the fleece but also suggests illness in the flock or problems with the animals’ caretaking. However, in a few, select breeds, this is a natural function of the sheep’s physiology. 

Reasons for Wool Break

When raising sheep suffering from wool break, the first thing to check is body weight. Sheep can lose weight due to illness, insufficient feed, or parasites. More indirect causes may include discomfort due to illness, injuries or pregnancy. In underweight sheep, wool growth is reduced to maintain the sheep’s own health. Returning the sheep to a healthy weight will usually cause growth to resume, though how quickly will depend on how long the sheep has been underweight.

Malnutrition is another common cause of wool slip, and while sometimes related to the animals being underweight, this is not always the case. Younger animals may develop so quickly that their bodies use up the nutrients needed for fleece development. Areas where the forage is nutritionally poor may result in malnourished sheep – especially those low on the “pecking order.” Poor forage or fodder quality can also result in animals having enough to eat, but developing wool break due to a nutrient imbalance. When raising sheep – or other grazing animals – it is good practice to have the nutrient contents of hay and pasture tested regularly to make sure they are of high value to the animals.

sheep
Soay sheep are one of the oldest sheep breeds in the world and naturally shed their fiber each spring

Sheep Can Have Mental Health Issues Too

Stress is a major issue for sheep that is often overlooked. Animals under stress – especially pregnant ewes – are prone to losing wool. Shearing in cold temperatures, predator attacks, and other stressful events increase the likelihood of wool break. As with underweight sheep, high stress will result in animals conserving energy by reducing wool production.

Wool loss can also be behavioral, though this is often related to one of the aforementioned categories. Sheep under high stress will sometimes pull the wool off each other as an act of aggression. Parasites or other skin issues will cause sheep to rub themselves against rough surfaces in an attempt to reduce discomfort. 

All Natural

While these are a few, common examples of preventable wool slip, it is important to remember that wool loss can also be natural. Older ewes will produce less wool during pregnancy, especially if having multiple lambs. As with many of the previous examples, her body needs to put its resources into the young, rather than fiber production. Older sheep are likely to produce less wool in general, which is why many large fiber producers cull older animals. 

Some breeds of sheep also shed their wool naturally in the spring. These include some of the oldest heritage breeds, wild sheep or hair sheep – none of which require human intervention to remove their fiber. 

Conclusion

Raising sheep on small farms should involve regular health checks, but wool loss can also be an easily observable sign that extra attention needs to be paid to the flock. It can also mean a loss of productivity for farmers, so by no means should preventative care and examinations be ignored.

This article about raising sheep was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms print magazine.

Categories
Animals

Raising Rabbits in a Colony: Pros & Cons

rabbits
If introduced young, colony-raised does usually get along just fine

Raising rabbits in colonies is an alternative to cage-breeding that is rising in popularity, especially for those farming rabbits for meat. However, for some breeds and breeders, colony-raising can cause more complications than it solves. Taking a look at the advantages and disadvantages of raising rabbits in this way is important to determine whether it will fit your individual situation.

Shelter

Rabbits are naturally outdoor animals. Access to sunshine lets them form vitamin D, which helps with the healthy absorption of calcium. They have instincts to dig and to run, which colony living can provide. 

In addition, a large run allows waste to remain separate from other activities. Their urine is full of ammonia, and being outside helps to dispel vapors that can otherwise make rabbits sick. 

However, in areas with heavy predator loads, losses can be high without significant protection. Kits and small breed rabbits are at especially high risk. Other animals may also be attracted to water and feed left in the pen, which can lead to disease exposure. Wild rabbits have also been known to be attracted to domestic rabbit pens.

rabbits
Rabbits love to play in the dirt!

Socialization

Rabbits are social animals.  Allowing young rabbits to form relationships in a colony environment can improve their well-being and quality of life.  Colony-raised rabbits can help each other reduce stress through grooming and physical contact. 

Breeding rabbits in colonies also allows does to share parenting duties. Does will often birth close together, and this means fostering between mothers is easier in case of emergency. A good buck will play with his kits, keep them warm, and sometimes can even be observed assisting with bathing. 

However, those breeding show rabbits, these animals do have disagreements. There are rarely serious injuries in these scuffles, but rabbits will pull fur, and bloody noses and cause minor injuries. This can interfere with the quality of the rabbits.

Caretaking

During most seasons, care of colony rabbits is simple. They often deposit manure in one area of the run, and it breaks down quickly, requiring less cleaning. 

They can be free-fed since the increased exercise and other options for stimulation means they eat only what they need. The added physical activity can result in a higher calorie need, however. Exercise also works muscles, so keeping meat rabbits in colonies can result in less tender rabbit meat.

rabbits
Mother and baby finding some shade on a hot day

Weather

Winter is usually the biggest concern for those considering colonies. However, thick fur and warmth in the winter make rabbits successful in cold weather climates. Heat and rain will actually create more difficulties for the animals. 

Rabbits do not sweat, instead regulating their body temperature primarily through their ears. They will stretch out in shallow trenches on hot days but require a source of shade and plenty of water. 

Torrential rains can cause flooding, driving rabbits from their burrows and exposing them to predators and cold. In extreme conditions, litters can drown if burrows are not secured. In winter, rain and cold temperatures can cause rabbits to freeze, whereas snow will not.

This is especially true for fiber-producing rabbit breeds. These animals have been selectively bred to have finer fur than most rabbits. It does not repel water, or maintain warmth, and is prone to matting. Fiber rabbits are not recommended for colonies. 

Conclusion

When considering colonies, it is important to find a balance that works for you, between meeting realistic production goals and the animals’ quality of life. The type of colony you plan to have, how it will stand up to weather and predator loads, and what breed of rabbits you plan to have, are major factors to consider. 

This article about raising rabbits was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe to Hobby Farms print magazine.

Categories
Poultry

Top 12 Brown Egg Laying Chickens

brown-egg-laying-chickens

Brown egg-laying chickens are the most common egg layers in backyard flocks. From Buff Orpingtons to Golden Comets and every breed in between, this article will count down the top 12 best brown egg layers in egg production.

#12 Buff Orpington

Buff Orpingtons are sweet, talkative, and will do just about anything for attention. These hens are both cold and heat-hardy, making them ideal for most weather climates. Buff Orpingtons lay an average of 3 – 5 light brown eggs per week (120 – 150 eggs annually) and will lay for three years.

What Orpingtons lack in egg quantity, they make up for with their affectionate, people-loving personalities.

Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Jubilee, Lavender, and White.

laying-hens
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#11 Welsummer

With their lovely mahogany brown eggs, Welsummers’ eggs are among the most pleasing. Averaging 3 – 5 eggs weekly (120 -150 eggs annually), Welsummers will consistently lay eggs for the first three to five years of their lives and are one of the longest-producing brown egg-laying chickens.

Welsummer hens are docile and friendly, although they are known for feather picking if bored. This breed is intelligent and should have mental stimulation to avoid developing destructive behaviors.

Color Variety: Partridge

 #10 Swedish Flower Hens

The rarest of the brown egg-laying chickens featured in this countdown, these delightful chickens have a lot to offer backyard flock owners. Swedish Flower Hens are a landrace breed, meaning they were not carefully selected for their breed characteristics. Therefore, hens of this breed come in a variety of colors.

Swedish Flower Hens are confident and friendly birds, often seeking out their owners for attention.

Hens are excellent layers, averaging 4 – 6 large tan or tinted eggs per week (200 – 220 eggs annually).

Color Varieties: Various colors, none of which breed true.

#9  Dominique

Dominiques may be best known for their calm, sweet, gentle, people-loving nature, but they are also excellent egg producers. Hens average 4 – 6 large brown eggs weekly. (200 – 220 eggs annually)  Dominique hens lay well for two years before production starts to decline. Even so, Domiques are still known for their longevity of production.

Color Variety: Barred.

#8 Wyandotte

Wyandottes are among the most popular brown egg laying chickens, known for their hardy and robust characteristics. They are respectable egg layers, averaging 4 – 6 medium/ large light brown eggs per week. (200 – 220 eggs annually)  Wyandottes have a short production life of about three years

Wyandotte hens are an ideal beginner breed due to their friendly disposition, with the Gold Laced variety being the friendliest.

Color Varieties: Black, Blue, Buff, Black Laced Red, Columbian, Gold Laced, Partridge, Silver Laced, Silver Penciled, and White.

brown-egg-laying-chickens
New Hampshire Red

#7 New Hampshire Red

Excellent egg layers, New Hampshire Red hens average 4 -6 extra large brown eggs per week (200 – 220 eggs annually), laying an average of three to four years before production ceases. New Hampshire hens are known for being good broodies and excellent mothers. These traits, however, can affect the number of eggs each hen produces.

This breed is generally known for being friendly, although they can be food-aggressive and bully other hens away from the feeders.

Color Variety: Red

brown-egg-laying-chickens
Speckled Sussex

#6 Speckled Sussex

Highly intelligent and energetic, the Speckled Sussex is a well-loved breed. The hens’ calm, cheerful, and curious natures make this breed one of the most popular brown egg-laying chickens. Sussex hens love interacting with people and often carry on animated conversations with their favorite humans.

Speckled Sussex hens lay an average of 4-5 medium light brown eggs weekly (150 eggs annually). While they may not put out the same number of eggs per year as other breeds, the number rarely decreases for the first four years of their lives.

Color Varieties: Speckled is the only common variety in the United States.

#5 Delaware

Delaware hens are a fun addition to the flock with their quirky, mischievous dispositions. They are known for being good layers, averaging five large/extra large brown eggs per week (200+ eggs annually). Deleware hens produce eggs for the first three years before production ceases.

Color Variety: White with barred neck feathers and black wing and tail feathers. White feathers turn “brassy” when allowed in the sunshine.

#4 Australorp

Usually described as “shy but sweet,” Australorps are energetic, friendly, and known for their vibrant personalities. Their sweet natures make them the perfect choice for families desiring an egg layer who will quickly become part of the family.

Australorps are egg-laying rockstars, averaging 5 – 6 light brown eggs per week (about 220 – 240 eggs per year), and lay an average of 4 years.

Color Varieties: Black is the primary color available in the U.S.

#3 Rhode Island Red

Possibly the most popular brown egg-laying chickens, Rhode Island Reds are well known for their egg-laying abilities. Averaging 5 – 6 extra large brown eggs weekly (200 – 220 eggs annually), Rhode Island Reds are known for frequently laying double-yolked eggs. Hens of this breed lay consistently for about three years before production begins to slow down.

Rhode Island Red hens are calm and friendly and quickly become part of the family.

Color Variety: Red

brown-egg-laying-chickens
Plymouth Rock

#2 Plymouth Rock

One of the most popular brown egg laying chickens in America, the Plymouth Rock has many fans. They are excellent layers, and their calm nature makes them a good choice for a pet.

Plymouth Rocks are reliable layers, averaging 4 – 6 medium/large brown eggs weekly (200 – 220 eggs per year). Plymouth Rock hens’ most productive years start to decline by the age of three, but some hens have been reported to lay a respected ten years, although egg production will decrease to just a couple of eggs.

Color Varieties: Barred, Blue, Buff, Columbian, Partridge, Silver Penciled, and White.

#1 Golden Comet

An ideal chicken for novices and veteran chicken keepers alike, this breed tops the charts for egg production.  Hens are friendly, people-loving birds who sometimes prefer their human companions over the company of other chickens.

Comets are excellent egg layers and will easily outlay all other breeds. They average 5+ extra large brown eggs per week ( about 280 – 300 eggs annually). Golden Comets lay exceptionally well for the first two to three years of their lives. After age three, egg production will significantly drop.

Color Variety: Golden Red with white.

Brown egg-laying chickens have dominated the henhouse for centuries. With so many delightful breeds, it’s easy to see why many chicken keepers today choose brown egg-layers for their backyard flocks.

This article about brown egg laying hens was written for Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe to Chickens magazine.

Categories
Recipes

How to Make Cooked Egg Mayonnaise

cooked-egg-mayonnaise-recipe
Adobe Stock Photo by NewAfrica

Cooked egg mayonnaise can be a safer and longer-lasting option than a traditional mayonnaise recipe and is perfect when you’re raising chickens for eggs and you’ve got some extras. I’m sure you’ve seen recipes for making homemade mayo using fresh eggs and lemon juice with a hand blender. Despite being a completely safe way of making mayo, people often shy away from the process due to the method of using raw eggs.

While paging through an old edition of the cookbook, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, by Julia Child and Jacques Pépin, I came across a recipe for a cooked egg mayonnaise recipe. I had never heard of a cooked egg mayo recipe and had to give it a try. It turned out so delicious that I wanted to share my adapted version of the recipe here for those who would also enjoy a cooked egg mayonnaise alternative.

Cooked Egg Mayonnaise Recipe

Julia Child notes in her recipe that using cooked egg mayonnaise is a safer option when serving food in hot weather and it also has a longer refrigerator storage life than when using raw eggs.

Yield: About 2 cups

Ingredients
2 tbsp. flour
½ cup water
1 large egg
2 hard-boiled egg yolks
1 tbsp. Dijon prepared mustard
½ tsp. salt
2 ½ tsp. wine vinegar
2 ½ tsp fresh lemon juice
1 cup olive oil
1/8 tsp. white pepper
Optional: additional seasonings – salt, vinegar, lemon juice

Make the Cooked Egg Mayonnaise Base

In a medium-sized saucepan, make a slurry by mixing flour and water and whisking together until it’s free of lumps.

Turn heat and bring the slurry to a boil for about thirty seconds, add more water if needed, and continue to whisk. You want a thick, not stiff, slurry.

Remove the slurry from the heat and add in one egg and rapidly whisk it. Return the egg and slurry mixture to the heat and bring it to a boil for just 15 seconds while whisking slowly.

Use a spatula to transfer the egg mayo base into a small food processor or blender.

cooked-egg-mayonnaise
Adobe Stock Photo by zoryanchik

Finish the Cooked Egg Mayonnaise

Add the cooked egg yolks to the base, as well as the Dijon mustard, salt, vinegar and lemon juice. Process until all ingredients are well blended and the mayo begins to thicken, about 15-20 seconds.

With the processor running, slowly add in the olive oil, beginning with droplets to start, until the mayo begins to emulsify, then increase to a small stream of oil until blended.

Taste test and determine if you’d like to stir in additional salt, pepper, vinegar, lemon juice or other seasonings.

Store the cooked egg mayonnaise in a covered container and refrigerate for up to one week.

Notes:

If you’d like to use less than one cup of oil, you can. Once the oil in the mayonnaise has emulsified and the mayo blend is thick and glossy, you can stop adding in oil.

To jazz up your mayo even more, consider adding chopped garlic, parsley, chives, or even dill.

Ideas for using cooked egg mayonnaise: Make homemade salad dressings, aioli or level up that lunchtime sandwich. Make potato or egg salad, or deviled eggs!

How to Hard Boil Eggs

  1. Place the eggs in a single layer in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the eggs by at least one inch.
  2. Bring eggs to a boil and turn off heat. Cover the pot and remove from the burner. Allow the eggs to stand in the hot water for 15 minutes. 12 minutes for medium eggs.
  3. Drain the hot water from the eggs and run cold water over eggs. Soak in an ice bath for 15 minutes, or until the eggs are completely cooled.
  4. Peel eggs by cracking the shell and peeling from the large end. Hold egg under running cold water or dip in a bowl of water to ease off shell.

This cooked egg mayonnaise recipe was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

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Uncategorized

Growing Good Podcast #76: Florentina Rodriguez, urban farmer and seed advocate

flora seeds

PREMIER SPONSOR: Home Fresh® Poultry Feeds (Kent Nutrition Group)

Hear about how Florentina started her Flora Seeds, all thanks to seeing the need for a community seed library in her village of Yellow Springs, Ohio. Her interest in seed education and in helping people save, share and grow seeds grew from there. As more people started becoming more aware of the vulnerabilities of our global food system, they also started paying attention to where their food comes from, which invariably leads back to seeds, seed keeping and seed sovereignty. Florentina explores the multiple pathways that bring people into having an interest in seeds, ranging from food security to political resistance and cultural interests.

Learn how the Yellow Springs Community Seed Library works and how people can “check out” and donate seeds. Florentina explains how she checks in with seed library users to be sure they are getting along with their seeds and to improve the system for everyone. She tells us, too, about some of her favorite seeds that have been contributed to the seed library. (Have you ever heard of elephant dill?)

With sights set on having an even larger impact than what a seed library offers, Florentina is also working with seed commons—communal resources of seed collections, seed keepers and seed protectors on a regional level. She talks about farmers, gardeners and community people who are building these networks to exchange seeds, share skills and continue specific seeds’ stories. Florentina also discusses how university and government interests are impacting the spirit behind seed commons and why it’s important to have both regionally based community seed commons and university/government programs but not necessarily the two combined. She also makes the case for when and why you might want to work with folks in your region to start your own seed commons.

The Appalachian Seed Growers Collective, co-organized by Utopia Seeds’ Chris Smith, is similar but different than a seed commons. It follows a lot of the same principles but is a collective for seed growers and farmers growing seeds to democratically work together. They also give the opportunity for folks to buy surplus seeds as a means of supporting more ethically and communally produced seeds.

Listen to the end to hear about Eden’s Harvest urban farm in Dayton, Ohio, which is a certified native wildlife habitat and center for growing food and educating neighbors and local students about food and farming.

Flora Seeds on Instagram

Email Florentina

The Utopian Seed Project

Categories
Food Recipes

Smoked Trout: Recipe & Instructions

smoked-trout
Stephanie Thurow

Smoked trout is a delicious way to celebrate your lake catches from a fun day of fishing or fish farming yields. Here’s how…

Ingredients & Supplies

  • 2 lake trout fillets
  • 2 cups kosher salt, more as needed
  • 2 tablespoons garlic powder
  • 9-by-13 glass tray
  • plastic wrap
  • plate to fit fillets

Smoked Trout Preparation

Freeze trout for a minimum of seven days to kill off parasites.

Thaw the fish fillets. Rinse them off, and pat them dry.

Layer a large glass container with salt. Lay the fillets skin down. Season the fillets with garlic powder and other seasonings if you desire. (I only seasoned them with garlic powder because I don’t like to overpower the flavor.) Liberally cover the fish with the remaining salt until completely covered. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for six hours.

After six hours, remove the fillets from the salt and rinse thoroughly. Pat the fillets dry and place them on a glass plate, uncovered, overnight. This process creates a dry layer over the surface of the fish’s flesh. It’s a protective barrier for the meat and enhances the flavor and color of the smoked trout.

Ideally, you want to smoke the fish at the lowest temperature for your smoker — about 140°F or so. (Unfortunately, my aunt’s smoker wouldn’t get below 160 degrees. The good news is that it doesn’t really need to. It will cook a little quicker, but it’ll still smoke up a nice fish.)

smoked-trout
Stephanie Thurow

Smoke for two hours at the closest temperature you can get to 140 degrees and increase the heat by about 20 degrees every hour. We ended up around 200 degrees for the last two hours, because the smoker was running a bit hot.

It took me a total of six hours to get the fish to an internal temperature of 160°F and this temperature needs to be held for at least 30 minutes to be considered safe for consumption.

You can enjoy the fish warm off the smoker or you can refrigerate it and serve it cold. The choice is yours. Eat within five days or freeze for up to six months.

For more information on how to properly smoke fish at home, please check out Smoking Fish at Home – Safely by the Pacific Northwest Extension Publication.

This smoked trout recipe was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Poultry Waterfowl

Drake Ducks: 10 Reasons to Keep Them

drake-ducks
By Erin Snyder

Drake ducks are an essential part of every duck flock. From factory farms to small backyard flocks with bantam ducks, duck owners everywhere are adding a few drakes to their flock for their vital role in a healthy, well-balanced flock. So, without further adieu, let’s begin the countdown to why every flock needs a drake duck.

#10 Fertile Eggs

It might go without saying, but fertile duck eggs are why many duck owners keep a drake. Hatching and raising ducklings from your backyard flock has many perks, as there is no need to worry about spreading infection or disease from newly acquired ducks to an existing flock.

Preserving a rare breed is another benefit to keeping a drake. Whether you are selling fertile eggs for a side business or raising ducklings from your backyard flock, Drake Ducks will help make your dreams a reality.

How Many Ducks Per Drake?

How many ducks should you have per drake? The answer depends on the breed of drake and ducks you are raising and their weight category. Before choosing a drake for your flock, consider the breed(s) of hens in your flock. This is a crucial decision, as housing a heavyweight drake with lightweight females may result in accidental injuries or the death of the hens. At the same time, a vigorous lightweight drake may exhaust placid heavyweight hens.

two drake ducks are walking in the backyard
Two Drake Ducks

Drake Ducks Per Hens Guidelines

Heavyweight- 3-4 hens per drake

Mediumweight- 3-5 hens per drake

Lightweight- 4-6 hens per drake

Bantam-1-2 hens per drake

#9 Increased Egg Production

Housing a drake with your flock may help to increase egg production. While no one knows why, female ducks tend to lay more eggs when a drake duck is present in the flock.

When housing drakes with ducks to increase egg production, follow the ducks to drake guidelines (above) to ensure a well-balanced flock, as too many drakes per hen ratio will decrease egg production.

#8 Guard Ducks

Male ducks are excellent at spotting danger. Our Welsh Harlequin drake is the first one to notice a bird of prey and will sound the alarm to warn our duck and chicken flocks of the danger.

Drakes are always on the lookout while the females feed, looking for potential danger. From cats, hawks, neighborhood dogs, or trash blowing across the yard, drakes will sound the alarm to warn the flock of any threat.

While drakes are excellent at spotting predators, they can not defend themselves or their flock from an attack. Instead of free-ranging ducks, house them in a safe predator-proof pen and lock them in a secure coop at night.

Two white drake ducks in the coop
White Drake Ducks

#7 Noise Levels

Unlike roosters, drake ducks are very quiet. While their soft noises carry surprisingly far distances, their noise levels are minimal. This trait puts them at an advantage for individuals who like ducks but do not enjoy the loud quacking of the females.

#6 Drake Ducks: A Show-Stopping Display

Anyone who has stopped to watch a drake perform courtship displays can testify to how amazing these shows can be. Drake ducks twist their bodies in various movements, make a whistle, and spray water with their bills to impress their hens.

Some drakes display throughout the year, but most occur during fall and winter when duck courtship takes place.

#5 Garden Helpers

All ducks make excellent gardening companions, but drakes are less destructive than females. While females go through the garden ripping up plants and looking for grubs and other larvae, drakes are content to chase flying insects or snack on beetles hiding among the garden plants.

Drake ducks are usually less destructive on lawns, too. Although some male ducks will rip up large clumps of grass looking for grubs, most are content to let the females do the ripping.

#4 Natural Lifestyle

As backyard flock owners, we want to provide our ducks with as much natural life as possible. Adding a drake to your flock of females will allow everyone to experience a more natural way of life.

Although courting and breeding may seem insignificant to the flock owner, ducks instinctively engage in these behaviors. While some flock owners believe female ducks will be happier without males, most females enjoy hanging out with a drake.

A white drake duck is walking near some pumpkins in the backyard
A White Drake Duck

#3 Making a Difference for Drake Ducks

Did you know? Many backyard duck flock keepers do not keep their drakes. Because they don’t lay eggs, many drake ducks find themselves homeless. Whether sitting in a cage in an animal shelter or trying to survive alone on a public pond, many drakes need a home. Adding even one drake to your flock helps reduce the number of homeless and abandoned drakes.

#2 Peaceful Pecking Order

One of the best ways to ensure harmony among ducks is to keep a drake in the flock. Drakes help to solve disputes among female flock members and prevent fighting. This behavior helps to avoid injuries from other flock members.

Bear in mind that while drakes help to prevent fighting among female flock members, they can be very aggressive towards each other. In most situations, it is best to house each drake separately with his flock of hens.

#1 Friendly Pets

Drake ducks make delightful, friendly pets, especially when imprinted on humans. They love interacting with people. Male ducks bond differently with humans than female ducks and are described as being more affectionate.

Unlike roosters, drakes have gentle personalities and pose no threat to small children. Their tame disposition makes them excellent pets for families with children.

With their soft quack, beautiful plumage, and curly tail feather, what isn’t there to like about a drake? Drake ducks improve the overall quality of the duck flock and complete our backyard flock. So, if you are considering adding ducks to your backyard flock, consider adding a drake, too.

This article about drake ducks was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Apple Tree Varieties: Why DNA Testing Can Make Sense

A apple tree in the garden with white flowers
Old apple tree on a farm. Courtesy Daniel Johnson

Apple tree varieties are abundant throughout North America. Not only named varieties, but wild varieties that arise from chance seedlings.

When you plant a young apple tree from a nursery, you know what variety you’re growing. That’s not the case with wild apple trees, or mature apple trees growing on an old farm. In these instances, DNA tests can help reveal what apple tree varieties you have.

Benefits of DNA Testing Apple Tree Varieties

Conducting DNA testing on apple trees is a relatively new avenue for identifying specimens and their ancestry. DNA tests can provide several benefits. While much work can be done to identify old trees based on their fruit appearance, ripening time, and more, it’s an inexact science with margin for error. DNA testing isn’t foolproof, but it may be able to determine with a high degree of confidence the apple tree varieties growing on your farm.

Also Read: How to Protect Apple Tree Branches From Breaking

 

 

Wild apple trees won’t be identifiable as specific varieties, since they aren’t propagated by grafting and thus don’t retain the cloned genetics of a specific desirable tree. Apple trees generally aren’t self-fertile, so a wild tree grown from an apple seed contains a mix of DNA from the tree that produced the apple and the tree that pollinated the original blossom. However, DNA testing may be able to pin down the probable parentage of a wild tree.

Should I DNA test my apple trees?

If you’re curious and have old or wild apple trees on your farm, you may want to DNA test your trees simply for enjoyment. But tests can be expensive—sometimes more than $100 apiece—so it’s a meaningful investment if you have many trees to sample. Is it worth it?

There are some practical reasons to DNA test apple trees. If you sell apples from one of your old farm trees, being able to say “I DNA tested this tree and it came back as Duchess of Oldenburg” is a more compelling sales pitch than “I don’t know what variety these are.”

Here’s another example—suppose a wild tree that grew from seed on your farm produces huge, sweet, juicy apples. Maybe you’ve discovered an awesome new apple tree variety worth reproducing. A DNA test can give you an idea of the tree’s parents, which are probably two of the other apple trees on your farm, or a close neighbor’s farm if they have apple trees too.

Shortcomings of Apple Tree DNA Testing

Before you invest in a bunch of apple tree DNA tests, it’s worth reiterating that research is ongoing and you may not receive the results you desire. You may find that the ancestry of a wild tree is too murky to definitively determine. Or an old tree you assumed was a particular named variety (like Duchess of Oldenburg) might turn out to be a different variety or no particular variety at all. What if it’s actually a wild tree?

Also Read: History of Apples

However, if the idea of learning about apple tree ancestry fascinates you, DNA testing may be worthwhile even with the shortcomings in mind. When coupled with visual clues (such as fruit and leaf appearance) and some research into the history of your farm and region, DNA testing can tell you a lot about your favorite old and wild trees.

This article about apple tree varieties and DNA testing was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals Poultry

Rooster Spurs: How to Protect Hens from Damage

rooster-spurs
pesenka77/Adobe Stock

Rooster spurs look intimidating and can do damage not only to people but also to hens. This can look unsightly if you’re trying to take pictures of your flock and it can result in scrapes and cuts that require attention. Here’s why this happens and how to protect your hens.

Rooster Spurs: How Damage Is Caused

It’s not that roosters intend to injure their hens’ backs. It is a result of mating. To mate, a rooster has to climb onto the hen’s back and then line up his reproductive parts with hers — all without opposable thumbs.

To not continually slip off while mating, the rooster has to hold on to his partner’s neck with his beak. However, that’s only enough to keep his head and torso steady. His lower half is in peril of falling off to the side, thus preventing the alignment necessary to fertilize eggs.

rooster spurs in backyard
rooster spurs

To keep steady a rooster uses his spurs to “tread” the hen’s back. It’s similar to treading water. A rooster continually steps on a hen’s back to keep himself from falling off.

The result, unfortunately, is that the rooster spurs break or yank out the poor hen’s back feathers. By mid-summer, the “popular” girl looks like she’s been through the wringer. The extent of the damage to a hen’s plumage constantly varies. I’ve had gentle giants who very politely mount a hen, quickly do their business, and then leave as the hen stands and shakes herself out with nary a feather out of place. I’ve had young guns who are so intent that they fail to realize they’re practically flaying the female. 

Rooster Spurs: Stopping the Damage

I’ve tried various remedies to the bare-back situation over the years. One of the worst approaches was to keep the roosters separate from the girls and only put them together to mate. That didn’t work out at all.

Not only did the boys continually fight, but they practically all-out assaulted the hens when they were reunited to mate.

Some people recommend increasing the ratio of roosters to hens to share the love more evenly. This does not work. Having more hens only means having more hens to protect. More available hens to the roosters is like spreading a smorgasbord in front of them. 

Two Solutions to Protect Hens

The two methods that actually help hens are far less expensive and far less stressful for both humans and the birds.

1. Hen Aprons

Hen aprons are little outfits consisting of a back piece that completely covers the affected area, plus elastic loops that cross in front of the hen’s neck and loop around each wing. The aprons fit snugly and stay on securely, protecting the damaged area by placing fabric between the rooster and the hen.

I’ve yet to have a hen remove her apron.

Some seem to like their aprons so much that I leave them on even after the feathers have all grown back. It does take a hen a bit of adjusting time to become accustomed to the apron. This usually manifests by a hen walking awkwardly backward and sitting down unintentionally. This usually lasts only a couple of days. 

2. Desheath the Rooster Spurs

The other solution to a spur-raked back is to remove the rooster’s spurs. Or rather, the outer sheath that covers the spur.

A rooster’s spur is actually skeletal. It’s part of the leg bone. Cutting off entire spurs would be cruel, not to mention crippling, to your rooster. The sheath, however, is made of keratin—the same protein found in a chicken’s beak, claws and feathers.

This sheath can be easily removed by the potato method:

  • Bake a medium-sized potato (in a conventional, toaster or microwave oven)
  • While the potato is hot, firmly hold your rooster, then wrap a small rag or towel around his leg under the spur. Impale the potato on the spur to within a half inch of the rooster’s leg. Do not let the potato touch his leg. This can cause a painful burn.
  • Wait for approximately five minutes. Remove the potato and set it aside.
  • With a pair of pliers, take hold of the outer spur and gently twist in one direction. The sheath should pop right off. If it doesn’t, apply the potato for a few more minutes, then try again.
  • Repeat on the other leg (you may need to warm the potato up again before doing the other leg). Feel free to chop up the potato and give it to your rooster as a treat afterward.

Without his pointy spurs, a romantic rooster will not tear up a hen’s back to the degree that he did with spurs on. However, the downside is that he will also not be able to face off against a predator as efficiently, since his chief weapon has been removed.

Should you live in an area frequented by raccoons, weasels or other carnivorous creatures, a bare-backed hen might be the trade-off for your rooster keeping your flock safe.

This article about rooster spurs was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.