Smoked trout is a delicious way to celebrate your lake catches from a fun day of fishing or fish farming yields. Here’s how…
Ingredients & Supplies
2 lake trout fillets
2 cups kosher salt, more as needed
2 tablespoons garlic powder
9-by-13 glass tray
plastic wrap
plate to fit fillets
Smoked Trout Preparation
Freeze trout for a minimum of seven days to kill off parasites.
Thaw the fish fillets. Rinse them off, and pat them dry.
Layer a large glass container with salt. Lay the fillets skin down. Season the fillets with garlic powder and other seasonings if you desire. (I only seasoned them with garlic powder because I don’t like to overpower the flavor.) Liberally cover the fish with the remaining salt until completely covered. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for six hours.
After six hours, remove the fillets from the salt and rinse thoroughly. Pat the fillets dry and place them on a glass plate, uncovered, overnight. This process creates a dry layer over the surface of the fish’s flesh. It’s a protective barrier for the meat and enhances the flavor and color of the smoked trout.
Ideally, you want to smoke the fish at the lowest temperature for your smoker — about 140°F or so. (Unfortunately, my aunt’s smoker wouldn’t get below 160 degrees. The good news is that it doesn’t really need to. It will cook a little quicker, but it’ll still smoke up a nice fish.)
Stephanie Thurow
Smoke for two hours at the closest temperature you can get to 140 degrees and increase the heat by about 20 degrees every hour. We ended up around 200 degrees for the last two hours, because the smoker was running a bit hot.
It took me a total of six hours to get the fish to an internal temperature of 160°F and this temperature needs to be held for at least 30 minutes to be considered safe for consumption.
You can enjoy the fish warm off the smoker or you can refrigerate it and serve it cold. The choice is yours. Eat within five days or freeze for up to six months.
For more information on how to properly smoke fish at home, please check out Smoking Fish at Home – Safely by the Pacific Northwest Extension Publication.
Drake ducks are an essential part of every duck flock. From factory farms to small backyard flocks with bantam ducks, duck owners everywhere are adding a few drakes to their flock for their vital role in a healthy, well-balanced flock. So, without further adieu, let’s begin the countdown to why every flock needs a drake duck.
#10 Fertile Eggs
It might go without saying, but fertile duck eggs are why many duck owners keep a drake. Hatching and raising ducklings from your backyard flock has many perks, as there is no need to worry about spreading infection or disease from newly acquired ducks to an existing flock.
Preserving a rare breed is another benefit to keeping a drake. Whether you are selling fertile eggs for a side business or raising ducklings from your backyard flock, Drake Ducks will help make your dreams a reality.
How Many Ducks Per Drake?
How many ducks should you have per drake? The answer depends on the breed of drake and ducks you are raising and their weight category. Before choosing a drake for your flock, consider the breed(s) of hens in your flock. This is a crucial decision, as housing a heavyweight drake with lightweight females may result in accidental injuries or the death of the hens. At the same time, a vigorous lightweight drake may exhaust placid heavyweight hens.
Two Drake Ducks
Drake Ducks Per Hens Guidelines
Heavyweight- 3-4 hens per drake
Mediumweight- 3-5 hens per drake
Lightweight- 4-6 hens per drake
Bantam-1-2 hens per drake
#9 Increased Egg Production
Housing a drake with your flock may help to increase egg production. While no one knows why, female ducks tend to lay more eggs when a drake duck is present in the flock.
When housing drakes with ducks to increase egg production, follow the ducks to drake guidelines (above) to ensure a well-balanced flock, as too many drakes per hen ratio will decrease egg production.
#8 Guard Ducks
Male ducks are excellent at spotting danger. Our Welsh Harlequin drake is the first one to notice a bird of prey and will sound the alarm to warn our duck and chicken flocks of the danger.
Drakes are always on the lookout while the females feed, looking for potential danger. From cats, hawks, neighborhood dogs, or trash blowing across the yard, drakes will sound the alarm to warn the flock of any threat.
While drakes are excellent at spotting predators, they can not defend themselves or their flock from an attack. Instead of free-ranging ducks, house them in a safe predator-proof pen and lock them in a secure coop at night.
White Drake Ducks
#7 Noise Levels
Unlike roosters, drake ducks are very quiet. While their soft noises carry surprisingly far distances, their noise levels are minimal. This trait puts them at an advantage for individuals who like ducks but do not enjoy the loud quacking of the females.
#6 Drake Ducks: A Show-Stopping Display
Anyone who has stopped to watch a drake perform courtship displays can testify to how amazing these shows can be. Drake ducks twist their bodies in various movements, make a whistle, and spray water with their bills to impress their hens.
Some drakes display throughout the year, but most occur during fall and winter when duck courtship takes place.
#5 Garden Helpers
All ducks make excellent gardening companions, but drakes are less destructive than females. While females go through the garden ripping up plants and looking for grubs and other larvae, drakes are content to chase flying insects or snack on beetles hiding among the garden plants.
Drake ducks are usually less destructive on lawns, too. Although some male ducks will rip up large clumps of grass looking for grubs, most are content to let the females do the ripping.
#4 Natural Lifestyle
As backyard flock owners, we want to provide our ducks with as much natural life as possible. Adding a drake to your flock of females will allow everyone to experience a more natural way of life.
Although courting and breeding may seem insignificant to the flock owner, ducks instinctively engage in these behaviors. While some flock owners believe female ducks will be happier without males, most females enjoy hanging out with a drake.
A White Drake Duck
#3 Making a Difference for Drake Ducks
Did you know? Many backyard duck flock keepers do not keep their drakes. Because they don’t lay eggs, many drake ducks find themselves homeless. Whether sitting in a cage in an animal shelter or trying to survive alone on a public pond, many drakes need a home. Adding even one drake to your flock helps reduce the number of homeless and abandoned drakes.
#2 Peaceful Pecking Order
One of the best ways to ensure harmony among ducks is to keep a drake in the flock. Drakes help to solve disputes among female flock members and prevent fighting. This behavior helps to avoid injuries from other flock members.
Bear in mind that while drakes help to prevent fighting among female flock members, they can be very aggressive towards each other. In most situations, it is best to house each drake separately with his flock of hens.
#1 Friendly Pets
Drake ducks make delightful, friendly pets, especially when imprinted on humans. They love interacting with people. Male ducks bond differently with humans than female ducks and are described as being more affectionate.
Unlike roosters, drakes have gentle personalities and pose no threat to small children. Their tame disposition makes them excellent pets for families with children.
With their soft quack, beautiful plumage, and curly tail feather, what isn’t there to like about a drake? Drake ducks improve the overall quality of the duck flock and complete our backyard flock. So, if you are considering adding ducks to your backyard flock, consider adding a drake, too.
Apple tree varieties are abundant throughout North America. Not only named varieties, but wild varieties that arise from chance seedlings.
When you plant a young apple tree from a nursery, you know what variety you’re growing. That’s not the case with wild apple trees, or mature apple trees growing on an old farm. In these instances, DNA tests can help reveal what apple tree varieties you have.
Benefits of DNA Testing Apple Tree Varieties
Conducting DNA testing on apple trees is a relatively new avenue for identifying specimens and their ancestry. DNA tests can provide several benefits. While much work can be done to identify old trees based on their fruit appearance, ripening time, and more, it’s an inexact science with margin for error. DNA testing isn’t foolproof, but it may be able to determine with a high degree of confidence the apple tree varieties growing on your farm.
Wild apple trees won’t be identifiable as specific varieties, since they aren’t propagated by grafting and thus don’t retain the cloned genetics of a specific desirable tree. Apple trees generally aren’t self-fertile, so a wild tree grown from an apple seed contains a mix of DNA from the tree that produced the apple and the tree that pollinated the original blossom. However, DNA testing may be able to pin down the probable parentage of a wild tree.
Should I DNA test my apple trees?
If you’re curious and have old or wild apple trees on your farm, you may want to DNA test your trees simply for enjoyment. But tests can be expensive—sometimes more than $100 apiece—so it’s a meaningful investment if you have many trees to sample. Is it worth it?
There are some practical reasons to DNA test apple trees. If you sell apples from one of your old farm trees, being able to say “I DNA tested this tree and it came back as Duchess of Oldenburg” is a more compelling sales pitch than “I don’t know what variety these are.”
Here’s another example—suppose a wild tree that grew from seed on your farm produces huge, sweet, juicy apples. Maybe you’ve discovered an awesome new apple tree variety worth reproducing. A DNA test can give you an idea of the tree’s parents, which are probably two of the other apple trees on your farm, or a close neighbor’s farm if they have apple trees too.
Shortcomings of Apple Tree DNA Testing
Before you invest in a bunch of apple tree DNA tests, it’s worth reiterating that research is ongoing and you may not receive the results you desire. You may find that the ancestry of a wild tree is too murky to definitively determine. Or an old tree you assumed was a particular named variety (like Duchess of Oldenburg) might turn out to be a different variety or no particular variety at all. What if it’s actually a wild tree?
However, if the idea of learning about apple tree ancestry fascinates you, DNA testing may be worthwhile even with the shortcomings in mind. When coupled with visual clues (such as fruit and leaf appearance) and some research into the history of your farm and region, DNA testing can tell you a lot about your favorite old and wild trees.
This article about apple tree varieties and DNA testing was written for Hobby Farms online. Click here to subscribe.
Rooster spurs look intimidating and can do damage not only to people but also to hens. This can look unsightly if you’re trying to take pictures of your flock and it can result in scrapes and cuts that require attention. Here’s why this happens and how to protect your hens.
Rooster Spurs: How Damage Is Caused
It’s not that roosters intend to injure their hens’ backs. It is a result of mating. To mate, a rooster has to climb onto the hen’s back and then line up his reproductive parts with hers — all without opposable thumbs.
To not continually slip off while mating, the rooster has to hold on to his partner’s neck with his beak. However, that’s only enough to keep his head and torso steady. His lower half is in peril of falling off to the side, thus preventing the alignment necessary to fertilize eggs.
rooster spurs
To keep steady a rooster uses his spurs to “tread” the hen’s back. It’s similar to treading water. A rooster continually steps on a hen’s back to keep himself from falling off.
The result, unfortunately, is that the rooster spurs break or yank out the poor hen’s back feathers. By mid-summer, the “popular” girl looks like she’s been through the wringer. The extent of the damage to a hen’s plumage constantly varies. I’ve had gentle giants who very politely mount a hen, quickly do their business, and then leave as the hen stands and shakes herself out with nary a feather out of place. I’ve had young guns who are so intent that they fail to realize they’re practically flaying the female.
Rooster Spurs: Stopping the Damage
I’ve tried various remedies to the bare-back situation over the years. One of the worst approaches was to keep the roosters separate from the girls and only put them together to mate. That didn’t work out at all.
Not only did the boys continually fight, but they practically all-out assaulted the hens when they were reunited to mate.
Some people recommend increasing the ratio of roosters to hens to share the love more evenly. This does not work. Having more hens only means having more hens to protect. More available hens to the roosters is like spreading a smorgasbord in front of them.
Two Solutions to Protect Hens
The two methods that actually help hens are far less expensive and far less stressful for both humans and the birds.
1. Hen Aprons
Hen aprons are little outfits consisting of a back piece that completely covers the affected area, plus elastic loops that cross in front of the hen’s neck and loop around each wing. The aprons fit snugly and stay on securely, protecting the damaged area by placing fabric between the rooster and the hen.
I’ve yet to have a hen remove her apron.
Some seem to like their aprons so much that I leave them on even after the feathers have all grown back. It does take a hen a bit of adjusting time to become accustomed to the apron. This usually manifests by a hen walking awkwardly backward and sitting down unintentionally. This usually lasts only a couple of days.
2. Desheath the Rooster Spurs
The other solution to a spur-raked back is to remove the rooster’s spurs. Or rather, the outer sheath that covers the spur.
A rooster’s spur is actually skeletal. It’s part of the leg bone. Cutting off entire spurs would be cruel, not to mention crippling, to your rooster. The sheath, however, is made of keratin—the same protein found in a chicken’s beak, claws and feathers.
This sheath can be easily removed by the potato method:
Bake a medium-sized potato (in a conventional, toaster or microwave oven)
While the potato is hot, firmly hold your rooster, then wrap a small rag or towel around his leg under the spur. Impale the potato on the spur to within a half inch of the rooster’s leg. Do not let the potato touch his leg. This can cause a painful burn.
Wait for approximately five minutes. Remove the potato and set it aside.
With a pair of pliers, take hold of the outer spur and gently twist in one direction. The sheath should pop right off. If it doesn’t, apply the potato for a few more minutes, then try again.
Repeat on the other leg (you may need to warm the potato up again before doing the other leg). Feel free to chop up the potato and give it to your rooster as a treat afterward.
Without his pointy spurs, a romantic rooster will not tear up a hen’s back to the degree that he did with spurs on. However, the downside is that he will also not be able to face off against a predator as efficiently, since his chief weapon has been removed.
Should you live in an area frequented by raccoons, weasels or other carnivorous creatures, a bare-backed hen might be the trade-off for your rooster keeping your flock safe.
Raising chickens for beginners not only includes day-old chicks but also the results about eight weeks later as those chicks turn into gangly little cockerels and pullets with scruffy feathers, big feet (especially the males) and attitudes—constantly bopping each other with their wings or using their tiny beaks as weapons.
Welcome to the world of teenage chickens, that in-between stage when our chooks are no longer chicks but also aren’t full-fledged (pun intended) roosters and hens. This time is also when the mother hen and her offspring seem to mutually agree that the time of mama shepherding them through their day is kaput.
Raising Chickens for Beginners: Teenage Behavior
Tom Watkins, president of McMurray Hatchery, gives insight on raising chickens for beginners during their teenage time.
“Basically around 6 to 8 weeks after hatching, the mother hen senses it’s time to stop protecting her chicks,” he says. “If the mother and her young are in a run with other hens and their young flocks, the hen may not even know or care which chicks were once hers.
“On the other hand, the former chicks are no longer looking for their mother to provide protection or food. Besides, the mother is likely no longer giving the food cluck to her young. If she’s found some kind of bug, for example, she’s likely eating it herself.”
cockerels pullets chickens
This new independent time can illicit some interesting behaviors as teenagers are chest bumping fellow flock mates and even their mothers. For the mothers, they can show the teenagers who’s boss with some beak pecks to the offender.
According to Watkins, “After the mother hen is through raising her chicks, she is still going to want to be on top of the pecking order. It’s instinctive.”
More Space = Less Conflict
Watkins relates that conflicts among teenage chickens become fewer if birds can be put out to pasture. When a teenage chook has a chance to escape its tormenting flock members, skirmishes are less likely as each pullet and cockerel is off doing its proverbial own thing. Indeed, at this contentious stage of chicken development, letting birds range about for a few hours every day is one of the best ways to defuse issues among flock members.
“I don’t care whether you have six birds or 200, letting your chickens free-range for at least a short time every day is good for them and heads off problems that result from being cooped up,” Watkins says.
“Being outside on pasture also helps chicks and teenagers develop earlier. The birds seem to feather out sooner, as well, and their foraging skills develop quicker. I believe that chicks raised under a heat lamp are the slowest ones to develop. Being outside and on pasture helps chickens develop in a survival-of-the-fittest-type way.
“Being outside also helps develop your chicken’s curiosity. There is so more to do outside: searching for bugs and seeds, for example. I also think being outside at a younger age enables birds to leave their mother hen earlier in their lives. But that’s just an opinion.”
Raising Chickens for Beginners: Teenage Changes
Two of the more interesting aspects, when a chick transitions into the teenage period, are the development of sex-related anatomy and behavior change.
1. Combs & Wattles
“People send pictures all the time to McMurray Hatchery wanting us to identify whether a chick is a male or female,” Watkins says. “Some people claim that they can sex chicks when they’re 2 weeks old, but I’m much more confident about predicting their sex when the chicks are about 6 weeks of age. The wattles and combs of the cockerels are well developed by that age.
“But, on the other hand, some roosters and hens are much slower to develop, and it’s very easy to make a mistake when that is the case. A lot of people will get fooled when they see the first little stub of a comb appear, and they think that has to belong to a rooster. But that little comb could turn out to belong to a fast-developing hen.”
During the teenage period, both sexes’ growth rates continue to be quite rapid. By week 16, the general advice is that we should stop giving our young flocks chick feed and replace it with layer rations.
2. Aggression
This time also brings forth another behavior – aggression.
“At 16 weeks, cockerels can become more sexually aggressive toward the hens and more combative with each other as their hormones rise,” Watkins says. “A lot of young roosters like to fight with each other.”
By weeks 20 to 22, if not before, breeding attempts will be common among teenage males. The cockerels will frequently try to mount the hens and pullets. From my observations, older hens will often respond with aggressive moves, especially pecking, toward the unwanted advances while pullets will attempt to escape a cockerel’s advances. If a cockerel does succeed in cornering a pullet, his initial mounting attempts at this time often fail because the male loses his balance. Eventually, of course, the cockerels display competence in this area.
Another aspect of this time is a cockerel trying to crow for the first time. The poor creature can’t seem to progress much beyond the first syllable of the “cock-a-doodle-do,” and even that opening volley of future roosterhood being announced is more comical than majestic.
But gradually over the next four weeks or so, the budding roos do become more adept at crowing. And the feistiness between all these hormonal males can become even more intense. It’s at this time that chicken raisers, if they haven’t already, should strongly consider culling their cockerels or trying to find a new home for them. However, be warned that hens can also crow, so be sure of the sex before you cull!
Watkins says one cockerel for every eight to 10 hens is sufficient, and there is no biological reason to keep more.
pullets chickens
The Epic Day
The teenage weeks and months eventually end, of course, and the best sign of that is when pullets produce their first eggs around weeks 20 to 22 for industrial birds and approximately 24 weeks for the heritage breeds.
Human parents aren’t the only creatures that experience trying times with teenagers. The teenage weeks and months can stress us chicken enthusiasts, but when our cockerels give their first full-throated crows and our pullets lay their initial eggs, we forget the previous troubling times.
This article about raising chickens for beginners originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Castration may seem like one of the more daunting aspects of raising cattle, but there are many good options to choose from that are customizable to your operation.
Reasons to Castrate
According to Lew Strickland, a veterinarian with the University of Tennessee’s Extension Service and College of Veterinary Medicine, reducing aggression in male animals is the top reason for castration. That aggression, fueled by testosterone, is a safety issue for other animals and for humans potentially leading to injury or death.
“The No. 2 reason is meat quality,” he says, recommending implanting with a growth-promoting hormone at the time of castration for an improved growth rate and better marbling of the meat. The growth rate of steers is further influenced by the elimination of sex drive as unlike with bulls they’re no longer expending valuable energy pursuing females. Beyond the physical aspects, castrating calves also leads to an improved bottom line for producers as steers possess a greater value as meat animals than bulls. “It makes the value of the calf more, and the way we market them, they have to be steers,” says Derek Miller, referring to a marketing strategy known as preconditioning. This is when calves are weaned, broken to feed from a bunk and drink from a water trough, have received vaccinations, and if appropriate, have been castrated. If those conditions are met, they’re eligible for special sales where they bring a higher premium. Miller, of Whitwell, Tennessee, has been farming for decades and, when making decisions about his operation, relies on his experience that is heavily steeped in backgrounding calves.
If not referring to grass-fed beef, calves can reach a weight of approximately 400 pounds at around 4 months of age. So don’t wait to castrate. TAMARA HARDING/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Age of Castration
When it comes to the recommended age for castration, Strickland acknowledges that there are plenty of theories to go around. He recommends castration and implanting at the time of birth. However, he acknowledges, a lot of producers aren’t able to do that. “Most producers wait until they are working their cows and vaccinating, roughly around 3 to 4 months of age,” he says.
Miller falls into this category. “The calves we raise off of our cows, we castrate around 2 to 3 months,” he says. “The calves that we buy to background and precondition, we castrate when we purchase them.”
Typically, if not referring to grass-fed beef, calves will reach a weight of approximately 400 pounds at around 4 months of age, and Strickland recommends that castration occurs before the calf exceeds that weight particularly if the producer’s chosen method of castration is banding. “There’s just too much of a risk factor when they’re getting that old,” he says. “I’m worried about tetanus and not draining properly.”
Common castration tools include, from left to right: large bander, Newberry knife and emasculatome. photos by Hope Ellis-Ashburn
Choosing a Method
There are several methods of castration to choose from. Banding, a bloodless method, is simple but not always the best choice. “You run into the issue of knocking the calf back a little bit,” Strickland says. “Research has shown that calves recover faster with cutting.”
If banding is the selected method, Strickland recommends that it be employed sooner rather than later and to always use fresh rubber or elastic bands. “The bands will age over time and will not remain as tight as they should be to cause the blood loss for the scrotum to fall off,” he says.
Also, a common mistake that Strickland sees producers make when banding is not capturing both testicles in the band and, he adds, this can be a difficult situation to correct. He further advises that calves that are to be banded receive a tetanus shot one week before the date of banding and a booster at the time of banding. Miller makes use of the banding and vaccination technique for the calves born on his farm.
Cutting, a practice that involves cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum with a knife or scalpel and pulling out the testicles, is another option; it’s Strickland’s preference. When using this method, he advises making sure that you get all the tissue or cords out and, if needed, use some type of fly control. When cutting, Strickland also likes to use a topical bandage known as Aluspray that is applied by spraying it from an aerosol can once the procedure is complete.
“It covers the tissue, and if there is any sort of light bleeding, it helps with clotting,” he says. In terms of cutting, Strickland offers one final caveat. He advises calling your veterinarian before proceeding with any castration that involves a scrotum that is abnormal in appearance.
If you’re new to this technique, your farm veterinarian or another experienced producer, along with publications on the topic from your local extension service, are among the best resources to learn from. Like many producers, Miller makes use of more than one castration method, and he employs cutting on the calves he buys. When cutting, he advises ripping the cords so that the blood clots. “You don’t cut them even,” he says. Both Strick and and Miller advise vaccinating for tetanus when using this method.
Other castration tools that Strickland sees through this work include the Henderson cattle castrating tool and the Newberry castrating knife. After cutting off the bottom third of the scrotum, Strickland says that the Henderson tool is clamped to the cords; then, powered by a drill, it spins the testicles off and in the process twists the blood vessels together which helps to prevent bleeding.
On the other hand, the Newberry knife, which can be used in conjunction with the Henderson tool, is another tool that is used for opening the scrotum from side to side. Strickland advises producers using the Newberry knife to be watchful for an infection stemming from the improper drainage that can occur where the flaps of skin on the scrotum lay against each other and close during the clotting process.
Finally, there are two other tools used for castration. One is the emasculator. The bottom third of the scrotum is removed, and the tool is applied to the cords and closed. This serves to crush and cut the cords to prevent bleeding. This tool is typically used on larger bulls and is recommended to hold the tool in place for 30 seconds to ensure proper crimping of the blood vessels.
The second tool has a similar name, the emasculatome, and can be easily confused. It is used to crush the spermatic cords. When this method is used, Strickland says, the testicles dry up and the scrotum is left in place, never falling off.
Regardless of your chosen castration method or methods, vaccinating for tetanus is always advised. photos by Hope Ellis-Ashburn
Pro Tips
Regardless of the chosen method or methods of castration, there are some tips to keep in mind as you negotiate the process. “I like to castrate in the cooler season of the year when flies are not around as much,” Strickland says. “I don’t have to worry as much about insect control in cooler weather.”
Miller, too, follows this practice but mainly because that is how it fits into his system. “We only buy calves to background or precondition beginning in October or November,” he says. He sells his calves in April. Furthermore, Millers’ calves are born in fall and winter and those are banded before hot weather and fly season begin.
Strickland further advises choosing a clean area that is not muddy and having a partner in place who can hold the calf’s tail straight up. “It helps put them in neutral,” he says. Doing so inhibits kicking and lessens the force of any kicks that do occur.
Finally, Strickland recommends injecting the testicle with 5 to 10 cubic centimeters of lidocaine and then waiting a minute so that it takes full effect before any castration that involves cutting. “It helps with pain relief and improves recovery time,” he says.
One common misconception among producers is that delaying castration until a calf reaches the 500-pound weight range allows the calf to make use of natural testosterone that will help him to grow. “They don’t grow that much from the testosterone they are producing on their own until they reach about six to seven hundred pounds,” Strickland says. If the producer is raising them for the market the 600-to-700-pound weight range is when they should be sold.
With research and practice castrating your beef calves can be a little less daunting and become a more familiar part of your farming operation.
This article about cattle castration was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Raising chickens for eggs takes a bit of earned knowledge, but you don’t have to learn everything the hard way. Here are 15 chicken-related words-to-the-wise that will set you and your laying hens on the right path.
1. Best Breeds
Raising chickens for eggs means first choosing the right breeds. It can be tempting to choose breed(s) based solely on looks, and it’s a plus to appreciate the appearance of the chickens you raise. However, chickens are more than looks.
Look at their egg-laying differences alone. Hens might be extremely prolific, maintain good production throughout the winter or tend to produce sizable eggs. Other characteristics relate to their dispositions, climate tolerances, and typical behaviors.
The value of these traits depends on your wants. Do you want chickens to hatch their own eggs (i.e., do you want broodiness or nonsetters)? Do you want chickens that love to forage (i.e., will your chickens remain penned or escape)? Even great egg production isn’t a good thing for everyone. Sex links (Red, Amber, and Black Stars) lay many eggs, but do you want to sell eggs or are you only interested in a personal supply? With chickens, you can select for what you really want.
Make sure you have enough space at your feeders and waterers. JACKF/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
2. Dietary Requirements
The composition of your birds’ diet is important especially when raising chickens for eggs. Offering commercially produced feed ensures hens receive the 16% to 18% protein they need for egg production. It contains carbohydrates as well, of course; important for energy but not egg laying.
Though chickens like treats of scratch grain, kitchen scraps, etc., these tend to be high on carbs and low on protein; overconsumption of them will reduce the amount of feed they acquire, leading to lower egg production. Chicken diets should be 9 parts commercial feed to 1 part other foods to ensure sufficient protein. Or, as a different metric, you should only put out as much “treat” as can be consumed by your flock in 20 minutes.
However, if you desire to reduce your dependence on commercial feed and have other food resources available on your homestead, feel free to trial to see, for example, how the addition of cultured milk; fresh byproducts of on-farm slaughtering; a protein-rich plant such as moringa; the inclusion of other protein sources such as legumes, sunflower seeds and fishmeal; or insect foraging might reduce your need to buy feed while keeping up protein levels.
3. Supplement Needs
Additionally, there are other things to keep in mind when feeding your chickens. Calcium is important to ensure strong eggshells, so a supply of free-choice oyster shells is a good idea. Lacking teeth with which to grind food, offering grit will help with the proper breakdown of food in the gizzard — an essential when feeding scratch grain and other non-ground foods.
Lastly, regard it as a dietary supplement to have enough feeder space so that all chickens could conceivably eat at the same time, as limited space could lead to individuals going without.
Silkies aren’t known for their egg-laying abilities, but they will brood and hatch other hens’ eggs very well. LDC/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
4. Just Add Water
When raising chickens for eggs, don’t forget that water is just as important as food, as going without could lead to stress molts or interruptions in egg production. It must be always kept fresh and unfrozen in the winter and provide enough waterer space so that all chickens have ready access as chickens can be territorial, and “guarded” watering spots may lead to deprivation for some.
Ironically, this important resource must be handled properly as excessive dampness is especially deleterious to bird health in the henhouse. Waterers must be at the correct height for the chickens, which is level with the height of their backs. Too high and they may not be able to reach it, but too low and water will dribble from their beaks as they stand to swallow, wetting the floor and bedding.
Breeds for Your Needs
The more suited a chicken breed is to your specific situation, the more you’ll benefit from its presence and the happier you will be; your hens will probably be happier, too! Here are a few chicken characteristics and the breeds (occasionally color-specific) that best embody them.
Top Egg Producers (Asterisks are the very top egg producers!): Sex Link*, Pearl White Leghorn*, Whiting*, Black Australorp, Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire, Plymouth Rock, Welsummer
Sustained Winter Egg-Production:Brahma, Jersey Giant, Orpington, Salmon Faverolle
Dual-Purpose (raising for egg and meat production): Bielefelder, Delaware, Jersey Giant, New Hampshire, Orpington, Plymouth Rock, Speckled Sussex
Active Foragers:Cuckoo Maran, Dominique, Silver Gray Dorking, Hamburg, Whiting, Wyandotte
5. Chicken Checklist
You may be surprised by how much stuff chickens need – roosts, nesting boxes, feed, supplements, fencing, heaters for your waterers, and more. You’ll want them to have an area for dust bathing. And you may need a special area for confining an injured hen or a broody hen. Though it is doubtless impossible to anticipate all your future needs, a little research (via books, the internet, and/or visiting someone’s flock) can help eliminate the surprise at every turn!
Water is essential, starting on day 1. For every 25 chicks, fill two 1-quart waterers with room temperature water and place them in the brooder. CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
6. Molting Misinterpretation
For fledgling owners, molting can be an uncertain time as feather loss — and occasional weight loss — is disconcerting. For those raising chickens for eggs, it’s disconcerting because your hens stop laying. But molting is a natural process by which chickens replace old feathers with new ones. This renewal is often triggered by the decrease in daylight hours in autumn, an ideal time as their new feathers will arrive for winter.
But most hens have their first molt at 18 months (regardless), and spring or summer molts are far from unheard of. Also, molts can be soft (losing only a few feathers) or hard (losing almost all feathers) and can take anywhere from 8 to 12 weeks or more. So there is some variation in molting. However, note that “unnatural” or stress molts (typically out-of-season) can result from disease, chilling, and going without water or food, indicating a separate issue that must be dealt with.
7. Brushing Aside Broodiness
A broody hen wants to hatch eggs, which is a problem if it isn’t what you have in mind. Though often triggered by the increasing day length of spring, hens may become broody at any time.
You can spot a broody hen easily: She seldom leaves her nest, and when she does, she’ll fluff her feathers, fan her tail, and cluck incessantly to create a “fierce” appearance; eats and drinks little; and makes grumbling sounds and is prone to pecking when you approach her. Her egg production will drop off; plus, she is blocking a nest from used by others.
Even if you think you can manage one broody hen, broodiness can be contagious and spread through a flock. One hen can quickly become four, and your egg production will really suffer.
To end broodiness, try repeatedly removing the broody hen from its broody stop and/or blocking her access to it; carrying her around, especially to the food; placing frozen bottles under her to create discomfort; and if all else fails, putting her in “jail”— an unstable or swinging, airy cage with food and water but no bedding in it. Check every day to see when the broodiness has taken wing.
Dust bathing is essential for a flock’s health and happiness. PETER CRIPPS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
8. Nifty Nesting
Whether your chickens are confined to a yard or allowed to range freely, you want to know where to gather your eggs. So it’s important to make your nesting boxes inviting to encourage their use. They should have a 1-foot square base and measure 18 inches high.
Ideally, their location should be slightly darkened and secluded; ours have curtains of tarp-like material to help obscure the opening of each (and discourage egg eating). One box per quintet of hens is recommended.
9. Act Your Age
When raising chickens for eggs, know that hens will begin laying eggs at around 6 months and can continue for 5 to 10 years. However, peak production is for the first 2 years, leaving you to decide how long to keep your hens around. No matter your decision, you must know how old each hen is, or rather, if she is still laying eggs.
We have always bought (never hatched) our laying hens and thus have been able to have a yearly changing succession of our favorite breeds. It was easy to know which ones were 2 or 3 years old. If your flock has a single breed across multiple generations, checking vents is your best bet to know who is laying or not. The vent (call it the egg opening!) of a laying hen will have a moist appearance and a paler color than her other skin surfaces. Also, her rear underside should feel soft if she is laying; a tight underside probably means no eggs.
Don’t skimp on the roosting space! Hens require 1 foot of roost per bird minimum. FOCUS FINDER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
10. Room to Roost
Roosting is an important chicken activity. Perched on a roost, hens can cozy together and feel safe and protected. Roosting space is a good way to signal to your flock that this is where they are to spend the night. Hens require 1 foot of roost per bird, and roosts should be arranged at least 18 inches off the ground.
11. Nighty Night
Many people make the mistake of thinking they don’t have any nighttime predators on their property. Then, they don’t shut their chickens in at night; the chickens come inside to roost and that is that.
Rest assured, even if you don’t begin your chicken-keeping career with raccoons, opossums, or other nocturnal nuisances visiting your henhouse in search of eggs or the chickens themselves as a meal, you eventually will. Even if you don’t attract those animals, even benign nighttime visitors (cats, rabbits, etc.) will still disturb and stress your flock. So be sure to lock them up!
12. Keep it Clean
Your henhouse should be as spartan as possible to allow for quick visual assessments that it’s secure. If you have never had rats on your property, this is good news. You want to keep it that way, and you never know when they might wander through the neighborhood (rural or urban) looking for a new home.
Don’t have stray boards, boxes, barrels or other items in or around your house that might offer locations for them to hide. Don’t leave food in the house or yard overnight to attract animals of any kind.
It’s easier to avoid pests in the first place than to rid yourself of them after they have arrived.
Don’t let your chickens free-range at night. Lock them up for their safety. SUWIWAT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
13. On the Job
Though this isn’t the sort of mistake that will harm your chickens, it’s certainly one that will do you a disservice. Not making proper use of your flock as garden insect-pest removers, compost-pile turners, weed-seed eliminators, even agents of fly control in the barnyard, means you aren’t using them to their full potential. Chickens are omnivores, with a taste for everything from meat to seeds to plant biomass, so make good use of them, and hopefully less work for you.
14. Social Director
“Pecking order” got that name for a reason, so it should come as no surprise that you must watch your birds’ behavior. Providing sufficient space and food usually prevents any major problems. However, roosters can help you here; they’re important members of the flock even if fertilized eggs aren’t desired.
A good rooster (not all are good at their job) will break up hen fights, find and “announce” food sources, signal when danger is around and, of course, be the alarm clock! The size of your flock dictates the number of roosters you should have. Generally, one rooster for every 10 to 25 hens is correct, the higher end of the spectrum working well if fertile eggs aren’t required. Too few hens (or too many roosters) can lead to rooster fights, so always pay attention to your rooster numbers and dispositions. If you happen to get a rooster with an unfavorable disposition (one that jumps at humans, for example), it won’t improve its behavior and should be removed.
If you live in a cold climate, a breed such as the Orpington is ideal. It has soft feathering that masks its true size and allows it to endure cold temperatures better than other breeds. CHERYL FLEISHMAN/WIRESTOCK/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
15. Space Out
When working on building/fencing projects, construct not for the current size of your flock but for the size you intend it to be. Probably one of the simpler tips included, it is also one of the best one for saving time and unneeded expenses. If you plan on having a larger flock in the future than you are housing currently, or want extra space for hatching or other special undertakings, keep this in mind. Yes, be realistic and practical about your target goals. But always be mindful of what you are working towards, too.
This article about raising chickens for eggs was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Chicken diseases are not always top of mind when you first start raising chickens. Chickens are relatively easy to raise and, when cared for properly, will provide a plethora of backyard eggs. Understanding disease and health conditions and how to prevent them will help keep your birds healthy and laying for many years to come. Here are five common backyard poultry diseases to get to know.
Coccidiosis is a legitimate health issue for backyard chickenkeepers, especially in chicks. CAVAN/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Chicken Diseases: Coccidiosis
A protozoal parasite known as Eimeria, which infects multiple intestinal sites within the bird, causes this disease. Coccidia is almost universally present in all operations and occurs after ingesting an abundance of spores often found in infected feed or feces. This protozoon sets up shop in the intestinal lining, reducing the bird’s ability to absorb nutrients leading to diarrhea, lethargy, weight loss and, in extreme cases, death.
Although it can affect birds of all ages, young birds are often overrepresented due to their naïve immune system. Due to the nature of this disease, birds often pick up secondary bacterial infections because of their compromised state, making it difficult to diagnose based solely off gross observation. With the help of a veterinarian, a fecal float can be performed to help diagnose if coccidia is present.
Even with great management, coccidia can’t always be controlled. Reducing risk is key to preventing an outbreak in your flock. Always provide a clean and dry environment for your birds. Removal of feces frequently greatly reduces pathogen exposure and spread.
Given a healthy flock of birds, coccidia can be self-limiting under certain conditions; however, treatments are available to fast-track recovery. Coccidiastat medications are available on the market today that are highly recommended for growing birds. The most common, Amprolium, is often found in medicated feeds or given as a water additive. This medicated feed should be given at 1-day-old and continued until approximately 20 weeks of age, or right before the birds begin laying. Because most birds often recover from coccidia infections, vaccines aren’t usually given.
Bumblefoot is an infection caused by bacteria; it’s usually the result of an injury to the foot, such as a cut, scratch or puncture that then becomes infected. CHAD ROBERTSON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Chicken Diseases: Bumblefoot
Bumblefoot is a common name for pododermatitis or infection affecting the bottom of the foot. This abscess-type lesion is caused by a bacteria known as Staphylococcus which is commonly found in the environment. This condition often presents with swelling of the foot, lameness and a hard, pus-filled pocket on the bottom of the foot covered by a round, dark-brown scab.
Contributing factors that may lead to this condition include being overweight, long toenails or having a leg injury. Deformities or leg injuries can cause uneven weight distribution to the foot pads which stresses the soft tissue of the footpad leading to infection.
In many cases, bumblefoot can be managed at home if found early. Soaking the bird’s foot in warm Epson salt solution will help draw out and kill the bacteria causing the infection. After soaking, the area can be cleaned with a 2% chlorohexidine or betadine solution and wrapped to keep the foot clean and dry.
Ointments containing silver or other antibiotic properties may also be beneficial in clearing the infection.
If infection persists, surgical debridement by a veterinarian will help eliminate dead tissue and promote faster healing. Environmental management is a key contributor to reducing incidence of Bumblefoot. Prevent accumulation of mud and feces in loafing areas and provide soft bedding. Perches should be round or wide enough that they do not cause pressure sores when stood on for extended periods of time. Allowing birds to exhibit natural foraging behaviors such as free-ranging in grass has also been shown to decrease instances of infection.
Marek’s disease causes a wide range of symptoms including a splayed leg appearance. OLEG/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Marek’s Disease
Marek’s disease is by far one of the most common viral infections in backyard birds and isn’t treatable once signs have begun. Marek’s disease is caused by a chicken herpes virus that is contracted from other birds by inhaling virus laden dander. Though birds of any age can contract Marek’s, it appears to be more common in young growing birds less than a year old.
This virus causes a wide range of symptoms varying in severity with an average mortality rate around 50%. Birds often show signs of depression early on which progresses to full body paralysis/ataxia and a splayed leg appearance. Upon necropsy, tumors are often found throughout many organ systems including the liver, heart, kidneys and spleen.
Though there is no treatment for Marek’s, vaccines are available to prevent infection. Vaccines should be given as chicks to build immunity before potential exposure. This is a lifelong disease, so those birds who survive infection will be carriers and can shed virus to other birds throughout their life.
Marek’s is exceptionally hardy in the environment and lives in poultry dander for months to years. Because of this, new birds brought in should always be quarantined prior to introduction into a flock. Previous outbreaks will require intense disinfection of coops, feeders and waterers prior to new birds inhabiting them.
Careful consideration should be taken when attending poultry shows or sales, as this virus is easily carried to and from farms on clothing and shoes. The combination of vaccination and good biosecurity make this an extremely preventable disease.
Chicken keepers shouldn’t invite other birds to their property. Wild birds can bring avian flu to your flock. MARIO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Avian Influenza
Avian influenza or bird flu is caused by an influenza type A virus. There are two types of bird flu which vary in severity of disease. Low-pathogenic avian influenza naturally occurs in migratory birds and can affect domestic chickens without causing much illness.
High pathogenic avian influenza is extremely contagious and causes severe illness with high mortality rates in all poultry birds. HPAI is a major concern for the U.S. poultry industry. Outbreaks of HPAI have huge economic impacts in the meat and egg markets by easily wiping out huge flocks in a short time. This affects farmers and consumers by reducing food supply and international trade.
Those with backyard flocks may be more susceptible to avian influenza due to birds being in proximity to wildlife birds. Because of this, be sure to have a good understanding of biosecurity to keep domestic backyard birds, production birds and wild birds safe.
Symptoms of avian influenza vary but include purple discoloration of the wattle, combs or legs, nasal discharge, sneezing, diarrhea, incoordination or even sudden death without any clinical signs. If these symptoms are noted, caution should be taken when handling sick or deceased birds to prevent zoonosis or transfer of disease to humans.
Currently, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services conducts yearly surveillance to identify risk factors among wildlife for avian influenza to prevent devastating outbreaks. If flock owners suspect an outbreak of avian flu, reach out to your local veterinarian or state agriculture department to ensure proper testing and diagnostics are performed to prevent the spread of this disease.
Currently, no approved vaccines are available for avian influenza. Although vaccines exist, often they aren’t congruent to the high-path strains that are seen during an outbreak. The best method of control is to maintain biosecurity by quarantining birds coming in from outside sources such as bird auctions and trade shows, and being aware that wild birds living amongst your flock can harbor this disease.
Mobile chicken coops are a great way to promote healthy birds and soil. Rotating through areas is great for soil health and prevents fecal matter buildup. NATALIE BOARD/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Mycoplasma
Mycoplasmosis is a common respiratory infection found in backyard poultry caused by a group of mycoplasma bacteria. Apart from the typical respiratory signs of wheezing, watery eyes and coughing, mycoplasma also causes a reduction in egg production followed by weight loss, joint disease and overall loss of thriftiness. Although the disease is more severe in turkeys, mortality rates of mycoplasma are relatively low. In chickens, subclinical infections may exist, showing no outward signs of sickness apart from a decrease in egg production. Over time, impaired immune function caused by infection of mycoplasma can lead to secondary opportunistic respiratory disease, such as bronchitis, which often leads to more severe sickness and death.
Diagnostic testing is needed to confirm presence of the pathogen and verify strain. This is done by collecting tracheal swabs and sending samples off to a diagnostic lab for testing.
Mycoplasma can be vertically transmitted through egg production meaning that an infected hen can transmit disease to their chicks through the formation of her egg.
Because of this, breeding hens carrying mycoplasma should be treated aggressively with antibiotics or culled as breeders.
The most effective control of mycoplasma is to maintain good biosecurity by responsibly introducing new birds to the flock and monitoring mycoplasma by testing the flock frequently. Some vaccines are commercially available although thorough monitoring and biosecurity have proven to be more efficacious.
Backyard birds can be a fun venture for many hobbyists. As a common theme, biosecurity and a well-managed environment seem to be the best way to prevent outbreaks of chicken diseases. Should chicken diseases persist, having a good relationship with a poultry veterinarian will be helpful in providing diagnostics and determining the best route for treatment of the disease or pathogen. If there is concern about human health or severe disease, always contact your state agricultural department or state veterinarian for further information. By being proactive about poultry health, we can avoid many chicken diseases and spend more time enjoying the pleasures of backyard poultry.
This article about chicken diseases was written for the January/February 2024 issue of Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Novelty pumpkins are varieties of pumpkins grown primarily for their unique and interesting appearance rather than for their suitability as food. These pumpkins come in various shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. They are popular for decorative purposes especially during the fall and around Halloween. Common types of novelty pumpkins include white, warty, mini, long-stemmed, and multi-colored. Jung Seed carries a wide variety of pumpkins including many novelty pumpkins. Here are the nine favorite novelty pumpkins you should consider growing this season.
A unique blue pumpkin that is not only beautiful, but delicious too! Deeply ribbed, slightly flattened fruits are somewhat bumpy and hard-shelled with a cool greenish-blue gray color that is certain to add interest to fall displays. They weigh 20 to 24 pounds with sweet, deep-orange flesh that is fantastic for both cooking and baking. They are high-yielding and have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew.
Grow pumpkins as charming as the fairy tale. This 2014 AAS Winner is the first hybrid Cinderella-type pumpkin on the market. The magical reddish orange to pinkish-red colored fruits has a flattened-round shape like the pumpkin carriage from Cinderella fairy tale fame, measuring 15 to 18 inches across and weighing from 20 to 35 pounds each. The vigorous vines are higher yielding than others of this type, bearing 5 to 7 fruits per plant, plus Powdery Mildew tolerance keeps them producing longer. Some lucky gardeners might also find a pale blue pumpkin in their patch. The fruits are not only extremely decorative but are delightfully tasty with a sweet, nutty flavor.
A novel all-white pumpkin. Even the flesh is white! The fruits are nearly round, measuring about 9 inches and weighing 5 to 12 pounds each. They have strong, sturdy handles and their glossy skin makes them excellent for painting and carving into unique jack-o-lanterns. Be sure to harvest when white and store in the dark to maintain the best color. Very productive.
The dark color adds a dramatic dimension to fall displays. The oval 8-to-10-pound fruits have deep ribs and retain their dark green coloring if picked early. Allow them to ripen on the vine and they turn a medium green with orange flecks. The fruits have a long shelf life ensuring they’ll last through the fall season. Vines possess good tolerance to powdery mildew.
The Fireball is a new novelty pumpkin that’s sure to light up your fall display. It has rounded yellow orange, lightly warted fruit displaying green stripes that change to orange as they mature. It has incredibly dark handles. Averaging 9 pounds, these pumpkins will add wonderful variety to pumpkin patches. Vigorous plants have intermediate resistance to powdery mildew and zucchini yellow mosaic virus.
This pumpkin looks like a bloodshot eyeball. There’s a character in every crowd, and it’s no different in the pumpkin patch. These 20-pound round to oblong fruits have a white background accented with midribs and stippled veins of red. The productive vines have good Powdery Mildew tolerance plus some virus tolerance.
The Polar Bear Hybrid Novelty Pumpkin are large, white pumpkins that retain their color in outdoor displays. The fruits typically average 30-65 pounds, but if growing conditions are ideal, they may grow 100 pounds or more. The skin is smooth with slight suturing and won’t turn beige if left in the field too long. Great for carving.
Pretty pink pumpkins are a delight for the eyes and the taste buds. These blocky, 20-to-24-pound fruits are naturally pink on the outside, but have sweet, deep orange flesh on the inside that is fantastic for baking and cooking. The vigorous vines have good tolerance to both powdery and downy mildews.
It’s frightful and yet delightful. Heavily warted pumpkins mature to a bright orange while the warts retain their green coloration for several weeks post-harvest. The hard-shell fruits average 8 to 20 pounds each. With its dark green, firmly attached handle to the novel appearance and you have a pumpkin perfect for kids and roadside stands. Good resistance to Powdery Mildew.
These specialty pumpkins not only add visual interest but also provide an opportunity to experiment with different varieties and expand your gardening skills. Whether you are planning to use them for seasonal displays or culinary creations, you will enjoy the harvest of your very own pumpkin patch filled with extraordinary treasures. If you are looking for additional novelty varieties or traditional pumpkins, be sure to visit Jung Seed Company.
How to clean a chicken coop is something every chicken keeper needs to know to keep a flock healthy and happy. Just as you wash the dishes or dust the living room regularly, routinely cleaning the coop will help prevent common health concerns in your flock.
Knowing some cleaning tips can save you time cleaning your coop. So, grab a pitchfork, a bottle brush and a broom, and let’s start cleaning!
Essential Cleaning Tools
Cleaning the coop for our chickens starts with having the proper tools to do the job quickly and efficiently. To do that, you will need the following:
Pitchfork to fork out soiled bedding
Trash canorwheelbarrow for hauling away old straw, wood shavings, etc.
Broom and dustpan for sweeping out dust and removing cobwebs
Trowel to scoop out nesting box material
Ice scraper to scrape dried manure off the coop floor
Bottle brush to scrub waterers and feeders
Facemask to protect against dust and other particles that can irritate your respiratory tract
Say Goodbye to Deep Litter
The deep litter method has been practiced in backyard flocks for centuries. This method of cleaning the coop consists of removing the bedding soiled by chickens once or twice a year. Instead of removing the manure, chicken keepers place more straw or wood shavings on top.
The manure will break down throughout the year and become a perfect fertilizer, ready for the garden. The old bedding is often placed in the garden to overwinter and break down to provide nutrient-rich soil for next year’s vegetables.
Yes, this may sound ideal for the gardener and flock owner. But the deep litter method can also cause some health issues for the flock.
Chicken manure breaks down into particles of dust. These particles can irritate the respiratory tract, so experts advise wearing a mask over your nose and mouth when handling chicken manure. Not only is this dust harmful to you, but it is also harmful to your chickens. And the dust from manure breakdown can cause respiratory issues in the flock as they scratch through the bedding, causing illness and even death in chickens.
The deep litter method is also known for harboring bacteria, fungi and diseases such as coccidiosis, as well as external and internal parasites. Never use the deep litter method housing hens five years or older, as these aging ladies’ immune systems may no longer be able to handle the bacteria often found in deep litter.
So what should you do instead? Remove all the bedding from the coop floor and nesting boxes weekly to keep your coop clean and chickens healthy. Depending on the size of your enclosure, this will only take a couple of minutes. Trust me, the rewards of a clean coop are worth the time it takes to clean it.
Erin Snyder
Choosing the Correct Bedding
Selecting a bedding can be tricky as there are many options. Chicken keepers have many preferences, from straw and hay to sand or wood shavings.
There are some pros and cons to each bedding type. In my experience, straw has been the best option for my flock, as it is easy to fork out, while other beddings (wood shavings and sand) can be difficult and more time-consuming. Straw is less likely to cause a crop impaction than sand or shavings and will provide hens with hours of fun and foraging as they search for remaining seed heads to snack on.
Hay is generally considered not the best bedding option for backyard flocks. Unlike straw, hay is expensive to purchase, is more likely to grow mold, and carries a greater risk of combustion.
Because of these safety concerns, avoid using hay as bedding whenever possible.
Cleaning the Waterers
Erin Snyder
Cleaning waterers should be a part of your daily routine. Waterers should be emptied, rinsed and refilled with fresh drinking water twice daily.
But I also like to clean mine more thoroughly once a week as my hens enjoy filling them up with dirt as they happily scratch or dust bathe nearby. I use a drop of dish detergent, hot water and a bottle brush (that I only use on my chicken waterers) to clean them quickly and efficiently.
Always be sure to rinse thoroughly before refilling.
Cleaning Feeders
Erin Snyder
How to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the chicken feeders. This can be a complex process. So, several years ago, I switched from a hanging poultry feeder to rubber feed pans. These feed pans are easy to clean, and you can add or remove the number of pans as your flock dwindles or grows.
Fill feeders twice daily with as much food as your chickens will eat in 20 minutes. Empty remaining food and rinse feeders at least once (preferably twice) daily. Wash feeders weekly in hot, sudsy water and thoroughly rinse before returning them to the flock. Always be sure feeders have dried before refilling them by placing them in a well-ventilated dry area or on a porch in the sun.
Cleaning the Run
Knowing how to clean a chicken coop also means cleaning the run — an oft-overlooked daily task. Check the run and remove spilled food, freshly laid eggs or leftover table scraps to deter predators and rodents from trying to enter the coop or run.
You can also use this time to check for any signs (holes in wire mesh or digging) of predators trying to gain access.
Regularly cleaning the coop, run, waterers and feeders may seem like a lot of work, but it is one of the best ways to keep your chickens healthy and happy.
This article about how to clean a chicken coop was written for Hobby Farms magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
