Categories
Beekeeping

Honey Harvest Methods for Fall

Aged wooden bee hive boxes in autumn setting with bees making their honey harvest
Adobe Stock/Teri

Honey harvest season arrives as fall blooms fade and you begin preparing your autumn chores. Before you close up the hive for winter and wish your bees well, check your frames — you may have enough surplus for one last honey harvest of the year. Congratulations! A fall honey harvest is a beekeeper’s dream, though not every hive or season produces the same bounty. Most colonies in North America will consume 40 to 60 pounds of honey through the winter, so any amount beyond that is yours to collect and enjoy.

Harvesting honey is best done in two ways: the crushing method or the traditional Langstroth spinning method. Let’s look at the pros and cons of each.

Crushing Comb: A Simple Honey Harvest Method

It sounds like the name of a cool new band, but it’s really an ancient form of harvesting honey. Before the Langstroth hive was invented, there weren’t many other choices. This form of honey harvest requires entering the hive, cutting out the honeycomb (leaving brood comb, of course), and crushing it, usually by hand, into jars. Some people then, as today, enjoy bottling fully intact slices of comb into jars of pure honey—it has an aesthetic value, and it’s delicious (and looks beautiful on your stand at the farmer’s market).

The pros to this honey harvest method are good ones: You save a lot of time preparing an extractor and cleaning all of the equipment before and after. It’s also great for someone living in a small space who can’t store (or doesn’t want to rent) all of the honey harvesting equipment.

On the downside, it’s rather messy for a short period of time. But the biggest drawback is the loss of comb. Building a comb is far more energy and resource-intensive than simply storing honey, so you’re setting the colony back significantly by cutting out the comb. The bees will have to rebuild all of that before they can store honey again. If you do choose this honey harvest method, be conservative with how much you cut out. Also consider the time of year: fall is not the best time to cut and crush comb for honey—save this method for your spring harvest.

Spinning Frames: A Cleaner Honey Harvest Option

This might also sound like another great band name. But this honey harvest method refers to using established frames and “pulling” the honey out by spinning them in a cylindrical extractor that uses centrifugal force. For this to work, the frames must be the correct size for the extractor (no brood frames here) and will probably need the wire wax foundation to keep the comb from breaking.

On the positive side, this honey harvest method is a lot of work with various components, but it pays off: The result is a lightly strained, pure honey product that is easy to bottle, use and sell. The frames are eagerly reused by the bees, and you simply place the whole frame, with still-intact honeycomb on it, back in the hive for them to clean up and fill again.

This downside to this method, as mentioned above, is that it requires copious amounts of equipment, including the extractor itself, honey forks, wax knives, strainers and sieves, and food-grade buckets with the proper spouts.

It should be said that any method is quite a task, but the honey harvest is one of the most fun and rewarding parts of being a beekeeper (other than seeing your hives thrive). Harvesting honey is instant gratification: You go from a comb covered in tens of thousands of insects to beautiful, glistening, golden jars of the sweetest stuff on the planet in one afternoon. It’s well worth all the hard work put in throughout the year.

Fall Harvest: Final Thoughts

No matter which method you choose, a fall harvest is one of the most satisfying parts of beekeeping. Whether you prefer the simplicity of crushing comb or the efficiency of spinning frames, both approaches reward your season’s work with golden jars of pure honey. Take time to leave enough for your bees to thrive through winter, and you’ll set the stage for another successful honey harvest in spring.

This article about a fall honey harvest was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Animals

Dutch Rabbit 101: Colors, Care and Personality

black and white dutch rabbit
Erin Snyder

The Dutch Rabbit, with its signature markings and sweet personalities, is easy to recognize and fall in love with. From history and temperament to breeding and color varieties, learn why the Dutch rabbit has become one of the most popular rabbit breeds.

Dutch Rabbit Origins

The Dutch rabbit was traditionally believed to have first been developed in the Netherlands or Holland, but despite their name, breed history suggests that the Dutch actually didn’t hail from these two countries.

In the 1830s, Petit Brabancons were imported from England to Belgium for the meat markets. Found in fifteenth-century paintings, the Petit Brabancon often had similar markings to the Dutch and possessed the same genetic roots.

While the rest of the breed’s history remains a mystery, its unknown origin has not impacted the breed’s continued success.

Even though they were initially raised for meat, today, Dutch rabbits are most commonly kept as pets and for show.

Recognizing a Dutch Rabbit

Dutch rabbits are easy to recognize with their distinctive markings. The head of the Dutch rabbit is a solid color sporting a white blaze down the face, which covers the nose, and grows thinner as it works up to the ears.

Behind the ears and neck area should be white, as well as the saddle (the upper body from the shoulders all the way up to the head and neck. The underside of the front half of the body (called the undercut) will also be white, and should form a complete, uniform circle around the body. The lower body and tail should be a solid color, i.e., blue, black, etc.

The front feet on a perfectly marked Dutch rabbit will be completely white, while the first third of a Dutch rabbit’s hind foot is also white; the rest of the foot remains a solid color.

Dutch Rabbit Color Varieties

Dutch rabbits come in a variety of colors, including black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, and tortoise.

Even though the Dutch rabbit comes in multiple colors, the black Dutch continues to be the most popular and iconic of the varieties.

Size and Weight of the Dutch Rabbit

Dutch rabbits fall into the category of small to medium, and weigh in at four to five and a half pounds. However, it isn’t uncommon for Dutch rabbits to get a little bigger than their ideal weight.

Health and Common Issues

The Dutch rabbit is generally healthy and is not prone to many diseases. Like all rabbits, the Dutch can have gastrointestinal problems, such as bloat, furballs, and other intestinal issues. However, eating a healthy diet should help to prevent digestive tract problems.

Dutch rabbits are also prone to external parasites, dental issues, and respiratory conditions. While these conditions aren’t usually a big concern, be sure to check your rabbits regularly for parasites, behavior changes, or other signs of illness. If your Dutch rabbit appears sick, take them to a qualified veterinarian for treatment.

Female Dutch rabbits are more prone to uterine cancer than other breeds. If kept as pets, spaying your females is advised. Clinical symptoms of uterine cancer include.

  • Blood in the urine
  • Difficulty breathing (Only seen in advanced cases where the cancer has spread to the lungs)
  • Fertility problems
  • Loss of appetite
  • Stillborn births

Many of these symptoms can be caused by other, less serious conditions, so be sure to take your rabbit to see a veterinarian to avoid a misdiagnosis.

How Long Do Dutch Rabbits Live?

The average lifespan of the Dutch rabbit is five to nine years. With some individuals living up to fifteen years of age.

Personality and Temperament

Dutch rabbits rank number three in the most popular of domestic rabbit breeds. With their endearing personality, it’s easy to see how the Dutch rabbit has continued to grow in popularity.

Easy-going, calm, curious, affectionate, and gentle, the Dutch rabbit is a good choice for families with small children. This friendly breed has never met a stranger and is not shy when interacting with humans, family pets, or livestock.

Dutch rabbits are very intelligent and can be trained to come when called, do tricks, and even run an agility course. With their active and fun-loving personalities, the Dutch is an interactive breed that loves nothing more than human attention.

Both male and female Dutch rabbits make ideal family pets and enjoy interacting with people. (However, potential owners should be aware that the males can be more smelly and messy than the females.)

Breeding Dutch Rabbits

Dutch rabbits are very fertile and are easier to breed than other rabbit breeds. This puts them at an advantage for novice rabbit breeders who are looking for an easy rabbit to raise a decent-sized litter.

Female Dutch rabbits’ gestation period lasts twenty-eight to thirty-two days. Each female should produce an average of six to seven babies (called kits) per litter. Unlike some other breeds, Dutch females make attentive and loving mothers. Dutch rabbits are such great mothers; some have even become foster moms to motherless kits.

When breeding for profit or show, female Dutch should be bred biannually, ideally giving birth in the spring and fall when temperatures are more moderate to avoid weather-related deaths in kits.

Why the Dutch Rabbit Makes a Great Pet

Dutch rabbits are not the best choice for those looking to raise their own rabbit meat or fur, or for those looking for a steady profit. However, if you are seeking a fun-loving, interactive pet for your backyard or hobby farm, the Dutch rabbit just might be the right breed for you.

This article was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Waterfowl

Duck Care Tips for Fall and Winter Prep

pekin ducks with proper duck care roaming a yard in autumn
Adobe Stock/Danita Delimont

Duck care in autumn means more than stocking up for feed and bedding for winter. Ducks require a few things at this time of year to keep them thriving all winter long, including run repairs, coop maintenance, predator protection and much more.

Duck Care in Autumn: Lawn Maintenance

It’s autumn, and it’s a fact about ducks that they are everywhere, engaging in their annual destruction of their run, the backyard, or wherever there happens to be a water source for ducks to play in. During the autumn months, ducks spend a lot of time engaging in a behavior nicknamed “mud drilling.”

When mud drilling, ducks splash water on the ground before beginning to tear away the grass with their bills. After the grass has been removed from the area, the ducks will splash more water to soak the ground, before digging with their bills in search of grubs. Depending on your flock’s dedication to the grub hunt, the size hole can vary from half-dollar to about the size of a chicken’s dustbathing hole.

Duck care in the fall includes filling in the holes with dirt and planting duck-safe, untreated grass seed, before covering the seed with straw to ensure regrowth in the spring.

Duck Care: Coop Cleaning and Maintenance

Fall is the perfect time to give your duck pen a thorough cleaning. With their delicate respiratory systems, ducks are more likely to combat illness over winter when housed in a dirty, dusty coop, so fall cleaning is a must on the autumn care for ducks to-do list.

Removing all the old bedding from the coop, and hosing down the walls and floor removes all the dust, dirt, and grime that accumulated over the past year.

While this job may not be fun, knowing your ducks’ lungs and respiratory system will be healthier makes the efforts worthwhile.

Managing Drakes in Autumn Duck Care

Oftentimes, during the breeding months of spring and summer, drakes become too vigorous and need to be separated from the female ducks. After the fall molt, drakes have calmed down, and in many flocks, it is safe to allow them to interact with the ladies.

One of the most interesting parts of autumn care for ducks is that during the autumn and winter months (until February when tempers once again begin to rise among drakes) is that most ducks enjoy commingling with the rest of the flock. Even drakes that seemingly can’t get along with each other the rest of the year can often be found enjoying each other’s company.

Predator Protection in the Fall

As it is in every season, predator protection is the most important part of autumn care for ducks. However, autumn is an even more critical time as predators become bolder to survive the winter.

House ducks in a completely predator-proof coop and run to protect them from a predator attack. Cover the roof and walls of the run as well as coop windows with half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth to ensure no predators can access the coop or run.

Attaching predator skirts around the outdoor perimeter of the run and coop helps prevent digging predators from accessing the flock by tunneling underneath the enclosures.

Last, but not least, never house ducks in a coop with a dirt floor, as these floors are easy for predators to gain access to the resting ducks. Instead, ducks should be housed in a safe coop complete with a concrete floor or a wooden floor resting on a concrete pad.

A Cozy Nest: Comfort-Focused Duck Care

Autumn care for ducks can help you make winter more pleasant for your flock. The winter chills and damp, snowy conditions can be hard on a duck’s joints, so extra care is needed to keep them comfortable.

In late fall, spreading clean straw on the floor of the run offers ducks a snug place to lie in the sun on a cold winter morning without harming their joints.

Ideally, straw bedding should be six to twelve inches deep to provide enough space between your duck’s feet and the cold ground. Refresh straw as needed.

Seasonal Treats for Autumn

Autumn care for ducks includes having fun with your flock, and what better way to do that than by feeding them some of their favorite seasonal treats.

During the autumn months, ducks love to munch on fresh cool-weathered greens from the garden, peas, grated raw sweet potato, broccoli, cauliflower, and dried black soldier fly larvae.

Autumn treats are beneficial as many of these treats are high in protein and other nutrients that help ducks recover from the fall molt.

Safety Tips for Fall

As in all seasons, autumn comes with its own unique set of safety tips to keep your flock healthy, happy, and thriving.

  • Due to birds of prey numbers increasing during the fall migration, keep ducks confined to the coop and run.
  • Autumn is the perfect time to stock up on layer feed and oyster shell to prepare for the first duck egg from young layers.
  • While ducks are not usually susceptible to internal parasites, sending in an annual fall stool sample to your local waterfowl vet is a good idea.
  • Autumn is the time when rodents try to take up residence in your snug coop. Protect ducks by rodent-proofing the coop, keeping mouse traps out of your flock’s reach, and avoiding the use of poison.

Duck Care Around Wild Waterfowl

Protecting your domestic ducks from wild waterfowl is an essential tip for autumn care for ducks. During fall and winter, large groups of ducks and geese gather on ponds, and if your pond is a wild waterfowl hangout spot, your flock could be in danger.

Wild waterfowl often carry diseases that can make domestic ducks (including Muscovies) sick and even kill them. Wild ducks and geese are also likely to injure domestic ducks in a battle, so keeping your flock off the pond is a good idea.

Another downside to allowing ducks on a pond is the inlet. Inlets bring water to the pond from other water sources that may be occupied by wild waterfowl. Therefore, your flock can still contract diseases such as the avian flu from drinking the infected water.

An Autumn Care Checklist

Fall can be a busy time of the year, so if you’re finding yourself trying not to forget anything on your autumn care for ducks list, creating a checklist can be helpful.

Final Thoughts on Autumn Care for Ducks

Autumn care will help your ducks stay comfortable and healthy all season long, and make a smooth transition into the winter months.

This article about duck care in the fall was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

 

Categories
Animals

10 Best Rabbit Breeds for Beginners

holland lop rabbit is in the best rabbit breeds list
Holland Lop Adobe Stock/Seattle Roll

The best rabbit breeds for beginners consist of the ten most popular and easiest to raise rabbits. From big to small, this countdown features a rabbit for everyone, including breeds for pets, show, meat, and wool.

#1 Holland Lop: A Compact Beginner-Friendly Rabbit

A small compact rabbit breed hailing from the Netherlands, the Holland Lop is one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners. These little rabbits weigh between two and four pounds (individuals lacking the dwarf gene can weigh a little more), and are the perfect size for a pet rabbit.

These adorable floppy-eared rabbits have endearing personalities and are a wonderful addition to the family. Sweet, gentle, friendly, and mischievous, Holland Lops quickly warm up to their handlers.

While the Holland Lop is one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners, they can be skittish at first until they adjust to their new surroundings.

An interesting note on the Holland Lop is that although both the males and females are friendly, the males tend to be more outgoing.

#2 New Zealand White: Calm and Versatile

The New Zealand White is one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners, as these rabbits are highly versatile. Despite their name, the breed was actually bred in the U.S. Famous for their excellent meat production, the New Zealand White reaches market weight between eight and eleven weeks, and has an excellent bone to meat ratio.

Excelling in the show ring, the New Zealand White holds the record for the most Best in Show wins (the highest award given by the American Rabbit Breeders Association).

Another quality that makes them one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners is their calm and gentle disposition. The New Zealand White is an affectionate pet, and enjoys interacting with humans and other rabbits. However, they can misbehave if they do not receive enough attention.

#3 Satin Angora: A Wool Rabbit for Beginners

The Satin Angora rabbit isn’t the most popular of the wool rabbit breeds (also known as fiber rabbits), despite its easy-to-manage wool.

Satin Angoras are pretty rabbits with soft, shiny wool, and come in a variety of eye-catching colors. Although their wool is easy to manage while on the rabbit, it can be more challenging to spin than other Angoras.

After being spun, however, the wool should be strong and soft, and can be sold as a specialty yarn. On average, Satin Angoras produce four to six ounces of wool per rabbit annually.

These intelligent rabbits are friendly and enjoy interacting with humans. However, potential owners should be aware that if not handled frequently, they can be prone to misbehaving.

#4 Mini Rex: Intelligent and Gentle

The Mini Rex rabbit was first developed in Texas in 1983 and is considered to be a relatively new breed. Stunning beauty, low-maintenance fur, and the ability to excel as both show rabbits and pets have all contributed to the breed’s continued popularity.

Mini Rex rabbits make good pets and are one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners. Very intelligent, these clever rabbits can learn their names and can even be trained to listen to simple commands.

As a family pet, the Mini Rex is gentle and calm, and enjoys interacting with their trusted handler. Although friendly, they can be shy when introduced to new surroundings or an unfamiliar face.

Since 1988 (when they were submitted to the American Rabbit Breeders Association Standard of Perfection), the Mini Rex has dominated the show table with their velvety coat and docile temperament.

#5 Florida White: A Budget-Friendly Meat Rabbit

Another meat rabbit breed, the Florida White, may not be as popular as the New Zealand White, but they are still one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners.  Florida Whites look very similar to the New Zealand White, but are only about half the size of their larger cousin.

Bred for excellent meat-to-bone proportions, the Florida White has a sixty-five percent meat-to-bone ratio. These small meat rabbits also excel at feed-to-weight management, making them a good choice for those trying to raise their own meat on a budget.

#6 Dutch: Popular Pet and Show Rabbit

Probably the most popular on the list of best rabbit breeds for beginners is the Dutch. These happy, go-lucky rabbits are easy to raise, excel on the show table and have a winning personality to boot.

As family pets, the Dutch rabbit is affectionate, gentle, and good with children. Their calm and laid-back demeanor makes them easy to handle and contributes to their continued popularity as both pets and show rabbits.

Although they can be skittish when meeting new people, if properly socialized, they will quickly warm up to visitors.

On the show ring, Dutch rabbits are the ideal choice for beginners due to their popularity and ease of handling. The breed’s only downside is ensuring that all of their distinct markings cohere to the breed’s Standard of Perfection.

#7 Havana: Affectionate with Mink-Like Fur

Small with short fur, the Havana is a cute little rabbit. Nicknamed the “Mink of the Fancy,” this popular breed has mink-like quality fur.

Favored on the show table, the Havana rabbit frequently takes home the prize. Their small, compact body and easy-going temperament are two reasons for the breed’s continued popularity.

Not only is the Havana one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners in the show ring, but they are also a good pet for beginners. Calm, gentle, and affectionate, Havana rabbits enjoy being petted for long periods of time and are an excellent choice for children.

#8 French Angora: Easy-Care Fiber Producer

The French Angora is not only one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners, but it is also the most prolific of the fiber rabbits to make the list.

The wool of a French Angora is soft and warm and is comparable to cashmere. French Angoras are good producers of wool, which can be plucked or trimmed every three to four months. On average, each French Angora should produce ten to sixteen ounces of wool annually. Even with their high yields, French Angoras are the easiest of the fiber rabbits to care for.

With their handlers, French Angoras are calm, friendly, and sweet. While they are good with children, they may not make the best pet due to their dislike of being picked up.

#9 American Chinchilla: A Multipurpose Breed

If you are looking for a rabbit breed that can do it all, the American Chinchilla is for you. This large rabbit has a calm and friendly nature, making them an ideal breed for show and pets, as well as having a good carcass and pelt.

These delightful rabbits possess a sweet and docile nature and are ideal rabbits for families with older children or seniors. Female American Chinchillas have strong maternal instincts and raise approximately six to nine kits per litter.

American Chinchillas do well in the show ring when kept clean. When breeding for show, other important factors to bear in mind include breeding for good genetics, health, and feeding a nutrient-rich diet.

#10 Californian: Adaptable Meat and Show Rabbit

The Californian is one of the best rabbit breeds for beginners looking to raise their own meat. Highly adaptable, the Californian is suitable for both backyard environments and commercial meat raisers alike.

These large meat rabbits grow quickly, reaching market weight (about four to five pounds) in eight to twelve weeks, and have a good bone-to-meat ratio.

Another plus to raising Californians as meat rabbits is that their carcass is easy to make into different cuts of meat. These fast growers have an excellent taste whether fried, roasted, or grilled.

In the show ring, Californians are easy to show, due to their distinctive markings and calm, docile personalities.

When raised as pets, the Californian is a good choice for the novice. While the breed can be shy at first, with time, patience, and gentle interactions, they will quickly become one of the family.

Best Rabbit Breeds for Beginners: Final Thoughts

There are many more rabbit breeds available for experienced handlers, but these ten best rabbit breeds for beginners offer a wide array of breeds to help you get started on your rabbit-keeping journey.

This article about rabbit breeds for beginners was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe. 

Categories
Farm & Garden

Spotted Lanternfly Control: Essential Tips for Hobby Farmers

spotted lanternfly with its wings spread is pretty but spotted lanternfly control is important to combat this invasive species
Adobe Stock/ondreicka

Spotted lanternfly control is top of mind as these invasive insects are spreading across the eastern U.S., threatening fruit trees, grapevines, and hardwoods. Hobby farmers and home gardeners may not face the full brunt of an infestation, but taking steps to manage these pests early is crucial. From identifying nymphs and adults to preventing egg clusters, effective spotted lanternfly control can protect your plants, preserve yields, and keep your garden or orchard healthy.

Identifying the Spotted Lanternfly in Your Garden

The spotted lanternfly (Lyncorma delicatula) is an invasive species of insects from Asia that first appeared in Pennsylvania in 2014. Known as plant hoppers, the spotted lanternfly feeds on more than seventy kinds of plants, including grapevines, maple trees, and fruit trees.

How to Recognize Lanternfly Nymphs and Adults

Spotted lanternfly nymphs are easy to recognize with their black bodies covered in distinct white polka dots. In later stages of development, the nymphs may take on red patches.

Adult spotted lanternflies are about one inch long, with grayish, beige forewings speckled with black. The hindwings are more flashy, sporting a bright red with black and white bands. The abdomen is yellow with black bands, while the head, feet, and legs are completely black. When resting, only the forewings are easy to spot.

These colorful insects have three modes of transportation: hitchhiking, crawling, and a fluttering flight with wing movements similar to those of a butterfly.

Spotted Lanternfly late nymph on a birch leaf.
Spotted Lanternfly late nymph on a birch leaf. Adobe Stock/Roman Tiraspolsky

States Where Spotted Lanternflies Are Spreading

Not all areas of the country need to worry about spotted lanternfly control, as they are currently only in the eastern and middle parts of the country. However, they are spreading rapidly, so even if your area has not yet been affected, there is still a chance that these invasive bugs could eventually become a problem.

Bear in mind that controlling spotted lanternfly outbreaks in a new area can be tricky, as the bugs are hitchhikers and will hitch a ride on plants, wood, and even your clothes.

Current Affected States Include: Connecticut, Delaware, Georgia, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Tennessee, Virginia, and West Virginia.

How Lanternflies Damage Trees and Vineyards

Before diving into spotted lanternfly control, it’s helpful to know how this invasive species causes harm to trees and vineyards.

Both adults and nymphs feed on plants, causing stress on the plants and trees it is consuming. While feeding, the spotted lanternfly excretes large amounts of sticky substance called “honeydew.” This honeydew works to weaken trees and other plant life by encouraging mold to grow.

As the mold begins to grow, it decreases photosynthesis, causing a decrease in fruit growth and yield, and encourages other harmful insects to feed on the infected trees and plants.

hundreds of spotted lanternflies on a tree of heaven trunk causing a need for spotted lanternfly control
Hundreds of invasive spotted lanternflies (Lycorma delicatula) covering the trunk of their host tree, the tree of heaven. Adobe Stock/Eric Dale Creative

Plants Most at Risk from Spotted Lanternflies

There are more than seventy different plants affected by this invasive species, so it’s important to do our part in maintaining spotted lanternfly control. Here are some of the most popular hosts and species to be affected.

  • Tree of Heaven (Most common host)
  • Blueberry bushes
  • Fruit Trees including Apple, Cherry, Peach and Plum.
  • Grapes
  • Hardwood Trees, including Birch, Maple, Walnut and Willow
  • Hops
  • Raspberry bushes

Spotted Lanternfly Control: Using Chemicals Safely

Chemicals are often used as tree trunk sprays and injections, and soil drenchers to prevent spotted lanternflies from harming fruit bearing and other trees. While chemicals are effective at killing these pests, they are also as effective at killing pollinators and other beneficial bugs.

Even though chemicals such as bifenthrin, carbaryl, and pyrethrin are efficient at killing spotted lanternflies, they should only be used during a severe infestation to avoid causing more harm than good.

Natural Methods for Spotted Lanternfly Control

Spotted Lanternfly control with natural methods is just as effective as chemicals. When confronted face on, spotted lanternflies have a “flight during fright” behavior, causing them to fly into you when confronted. This behavior makes them very easy to kill with a fly swatter.

Prevent future nymphs from hatching by scraping egg clusters (eggs look like gray-brown mud splashes about one inch in diameter, located on the trunks of trees) into a plastic resealable storage bag. Put the bag in the freezer for one week or pour rubbing alcohol into the bag to destroy the eggs.

Another natural method is wrapping tree trunks with mesh screening to protect the trunk and placing sticky bands over the mesh to prevent the bugs from destroying the tree. This method is the least effective of the spotted lanternfly control methods due to the bugs flying over the bands and feeding further up on the tree, and the risk of trapping beneficial bugs, birds, and pollinators.

Protecting Grapevines and Berry Bushes

To prevent grapevines and berry bushes from being destroyed, cover them with netting or spray bushes and vines with soapy water to help keep spotted lanternflies away from grapevines and bushes.

Another useful method is handpicking the adults, nymphs, and eggs from the bushes and vines, and manually crushing or placing them in a resealable bag in the freezer for several days, before disposing.

Lanternfly Predators and Helpful Wildlife

The spotted lanternfly has several natural predators, including praying mantis, parasitic wasps, spined soldier bugs, spiders, wheel bugs, and birds (including Bluejays, Cardinals, Chickadees, Robins, and Flycatchers).

Chickens and domestic ducks also enjoy catching and killing these bugs when allowed out for supervised freeranging time, but care should be taken to limit their consumption, as ingesting these bugs may cause vomiting. Also, be careful that the lanternflies backyard birds are catching have not been exposed to pesticides.

Reporting and Tracking Lanternfly Infestations

When dealing with an infestation of spotted lanternflies on your trees, grapevines, and berry bushes, or if these bugs have not been previously spotted in your area, contact your county extension office to report the problem.

Final Tips for Effective Spotted Lanternfly Control

While they may always be an invasive species, limiting destruction is possible with spotted lanternfly control. Taking preventive steps to slow down the spread of these harmful pests without harming beneficial bugs is the best way to stop this invasive species from destroying our orchards and woods.

This article about spotted lanternfly control on hobby farms was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

Categories
Farm & Garden

Fall Garden Plants: What to Plant for Spring

November fall farm garden plants
images by Rachel Porter

Fall garden plants can be sparse as gardens are entering a season of rest—for both the gardener and the land. However, even in November, there are still a few easy plants you can put in to set your garden up for spring success.

Plant Shrubs & Trees

Fall is a wonderful time to plant shrubs and trees because it gives roots a good amount of time to establish a strong root system. Shrubs and trees fare much better in cool weather than in hot. So the more time they have to “move into” their new location and before the threat of heat, the better.

November fall farm garden plants

If planted too close to a period of heat, they just don’t have the resources to survive. Getting the plants in the ground just before they become dormant is the safest way to ensure their survival.

Because of cooler temperatures in the fall, less watering is required, giving the gardener a break. Weeds are also less maintenance in the fall.

Although you won’t see much top growth during the fall or winter out of your shrubs or trees, they will be more prepared to flourish in the spring. Many shrubs and trees have proven to bloom two weeks earlier if they are planted in the fall. 

Fall Garden Plants: Cover Crops

Garden beds are depleted at this point in the year from growing all spring and summer. If you planned for a fall garden, it is most likely still producing. However, if you have open beds, they need to start preparing for spring now.

Fall and winter weather can wreak havoc on garden beds. The wind will cause erosion and deplete nutrients from the soil. Bacteria and fungi can still be present and grow in soil during the winter. If garden beds are left empty in the winter, they can become host to pests, diseases and weeds.

Cover crops as fall garden plants will aid in suppressing all of that negative activity. 

Cover crops fill the bed in a way that protects soil from erosion, keeping healthy nutrients and microbes flourishing and preventing weeds. When planted around November, many plants will even stay green throughout the winter, enhancing the aesthetic of your garden as well.

Different cover crops help garden soil in various ways, and you will want to research what is best for your area. At Porter Valley Ranch, we choose to plant crimson clover because it is low-maintenance and highly beneficial. Crimson clover is a legume and adds nitrogen to the soil in the spring.

It is a nutrient scavenger and brings nutrients up from deep in the soil, preferring sandy, loamy soil. In the spring, if there are not enough significant freezes, the clover can be terminated and added back into the soil via a weed eater. If it was a harsh winter, Crimson clover will simply winterkill.

Either way, the cover crop will have done its job and be easy to turn back into the soil in time to start planting for spring.

Read more: Cover crops are a powerhouse tool for building healthy soil.

Fall Garden Plants: Pansies

It may seem counterintuitive to add annuals to your landscape or beds right now. However, pansies complement all fall plants and can survive dropping temperatures.

They may take a break in the winter (depending on your weather), but rebloom early in the spring to also complement spring flowers, giving you the most mileage out of all annual plantings. Some pansies can even be seen still blooming during snow!

They will gradually die out in later spring as temperatures surpass 65, but for an annual, they are well worth the investment. Aside from the practicality of the flower, they are absolutely beautiful, with a subtle fragrance. They are offered in a kaleidoscope of colors and produce billowy blooms. 

Plant Bulbs in Fall for Spring Blooms

Daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, irises, lilies and ranunculus are all spring favorites! These plants, along with several others, need to be planted in November to show their blooms in spring.

November fall farm garden plants

Bulbs require a long period of cool temperatures to ignite the chemical process that causes them to flower. They need to be planted before it freezes and tucked in for the winter.

Most bulbs will come back year after year. Make sure to research what is best for your area for continual success. Also, pay attention to planting instructions. Living plants put in in November will be developing and preparing all winter long and need to be positioned correctly to work best.

This story about fall garden plants was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.  

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Crops & Gardening

How to Dry Seeds: 3 Techniques for Success

poppy plant heads in a small saucer being used to dry seeds in the fall and save them
Poppy flower seed pods Adobe Stock/Kathy

Seeds come in many shapes and sizes. Some are fat and round, while others are long and skinny. But regardless of their size, seeds require proper treatment if you plan to save them from year to year. For those of us who save fruit, herb and flower seeds from our gardens, it’s important to learn how to dry seeds to ensure your chances of success.

Below, you’ll find three seed-drying techniques to prolong the life of your seeds and keep them from developing mold or rot while in storage. But before we dive into these techniques, it’s important to understand why properly drying seeds is so critical.

Why Dry Seeds Before Storage?

Each seed, no matter which plant species it comes from, contains the same things: an embryonic plant that consists of the initial leaves (cotyledons) and the initial root (radicle), the endosperm (food for the newly germinated plant) and the seed coat. While seed coats are designed to keep the embryonic plant and its food source well protected, they aren’t an impenetrable fortress. Seed coats can crack if the seeds are kept too dry in storage. Conversely, they can rot or develop mold if kept in conditions that are too damp. Both of those issues can lead to a limited shelf-life and a reduction in seed viability.

Learning how to dry seeds involves allowing the ideal amount of moisture to evaporate from the seed without it becoming too dry. While the ideal moisture content varies from species to species, most require a moisture retention rate between 5 percent and 8 percent. Seed companies and long-term seed storage facilities can dry seeds to the exact required moisture content level, but for home gardeners, it’s all an educated best guess. The trick is to try them well, but not completely.

Here are three techniques for success when drying seeds.

1. How to Dry Seeds in Open Air

The first seed-drying method requires no special tools or equipment. Once the seed pods or fruits have been harvested from the plant, crack them open and collect the seeds. If the seeds came from a “wet” fruit or vegetable, such as a cucumber, tomato, pepper or squash, wash off the “slime” according to these instructions. If the seeds came from a “dry” seed pod or capsule, like a zinnia, marigold, parsley or cosmos plant, you can skip this step.

Once the seeds are free from their pods or fruits, spread them out on a coffee filter, wax paper or a fine window screen laid on a flat surface in a dry, cool room. Do not use paper towels or newspaper if the seeds are wet. They’ll stick to it and be nearly impossible to remove later.

Spread the seeds out over the area so they don’t touch. Let the seeds rest for a week to ten days before gently stirring them with your finger or a small spoon. Let them dry for another two to three weeks. At this point, they should be dry enough to put into storage.

2. Drying Seeds in a Paper Bag

When it comes to learning how to dry seeds, gardeners can’t forget how useful a simple brown paper lunch bag can be. This technique is best used for dry seed pods and capsules, but it should not be used for saving seeds of wet fruits, such as tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons and the like. I find it especially useful for flower seeds and for dry vegetable and herb seeds borne on stalks, like those from lettuce, carrot, spinach and dill plants.

For this seed-drying method, harvest the entire flower head or stalk soon after the flowers are spent. Put the flower stalk into a brown paper bag, top end first, allowing the cut stem end to stick out of the bag’s opening. Place the open paper bag on a table or tray in a dry, cool room with the stem end sticking up. If the bag is top-heavy, you can also lay it on its side. Allow the stem to fully die and turn brown in the bag over the course of two to three weeks.

Once the stem is brown and dry, reach into the bag and use your fingers to pull the seeds out of the dead flower head or seed capsule. For some seeds, you might have to crack the seed pod open. The seeds will fall out into the bag and collect at the bottom. Pull out any non-seed materials, such as the plant stems, dried up petals and chaff, and discard it.

After the seeds are collected in the bottom of the bag, leave the open bags sit in the room for another two to three weeks, shaking them occasionally to stir up the seeds. When that time passes, your seeds are now ready for storage.

3. How to Dry Seeds With Silica Gel

Silica gel is a granular substance that pulls and absorbs moisture from the air. You’ll often find little sachets of it in shoe boxes and purses when making a purchase from the store. Loose silica gel is available from craft stores and is very useful when it comes to drying seeds.

To dry seeds using silica gel, prepare the seeds accordingly to separate them from their fruits or pods. Once the seeds are separated, weigh them. Place the same amount by weight of silica gel into the bottom of a glass screw-top jar. Place a small piece of screening on top of the silica gel and then place the seeds on top of the screening. Spread them out as much as possible so they sit in a thin layer. Put the lid of the jar and keep it sealed for 7 to 10 days. Large seeds, like squash and pumpkins, might need a few more days.

Once that time passes, open the jar, remove the seeds and store them appropriately.

This article about how to dry seeds was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

What Are Chicken Predators? Seasonal Threats to Your Flock

raccoons like this one in the woods are on the list of what are chicken predators
Bryan/Adobe Stock

What are chicken predators, and how do they endanger backyard flocks? From hawks soaring overhead to coyotes roaming neighborhoods, these threats can appear suddenly—especially during spring and fall migrations. Some predators follow seasonal patterns you might not expect, making it important to understand when and how they strike.

Protecting Your Flock from Chicken Predators When Free Ranging

During the spring and fall migrations, when aerial predators are winging their way through the sky, keeping your flock confined is the best way to prevent these migratory predators of chickens from attacking your hens.

During these critical periods, even supervised free-ranging is not advised, as you never know when a hungry hawk may fly by.

Hawks on the Move: Seasonal Chicken Predators

Hawks migrate twice annually in the spring and then again in the fall. Like all migratory birds, their migration route in the spring is different from the fall. One of the reasons for the different migration routes is to ensure enough food for each trip.

Just like all migratory predators of chickens, it can be tricky to know when a hawk might pay a visit to your backyard. Avoiding free-ranging (even when supervised) during spring and fall migrations is a good way to protect your flock against hawks and other aerial predators.

Migration time may vary based on individual geographic location as well as weather patterns.

When hawk-proofing your run, be sure to cover the top of the run with a sturdy half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth. Less sturdy roofing material, such as chicken wire, will allow hawks to jump on the wire to bend it down to the ground to grab a free chicken dinner.

Raccoons: Wandering Threats to Your Chickens

Raccoons are often overlooked as migratory predators of chickens as they live in every neighborhood. However, they do roam throughout their expansive territories (about ten miles) and young males can roam even further.

While this might not seem like a problem if your neighborhood raccoons have never attacked your flock, a new resident may be more tempted to try to steal a chicken from the neighborhood ”buffet.”

Raccoons tend to do more wandering in winter, so keep chickens confined to the coop and run for the best protection.

Coyotes Roaming Their Territory

Ground-dwelling migratory predators of chickens might be more common than you think, and the coyote is the chief of them all. Coyotes often move about their home range, with home territories varying in size from two to thirty square miles.

Coyotes move throughout their territory, often being absent from certain areas for a year or longer following their food source (oftentimes deer).

Coyotes hunt throughout the daylight hours and at night, so if some have moved into your area, extra vigilance is needed to protect your flock. Confining your chickens to a completely predator-proof coop and run is the best way to prevent coyotes from attacking your flock.

Owls: Nocturnal (and Sometimes Daytime) Predators

Owls seem like they should be one of the easiest migratory predators of chickens to protect against, but these silent fliers are more dangerous than you might think.

Owls usually migrate at night, but they can hunt and will occasionally migrate during the day. Even though they are commonly thought of as nocturnal, some owl species, like the invasive Barred Owl, do prey on backyard flocks in daylight.

Another way to protect your flock from an owl attack is to cover open windows and gaps in the rafters of your coop or barn with half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth to prevent a hungry owl from ripping the screen or squeezing into the coop for a free meal.

Foxes: Seasonal Visitors to Your Coop

Foxes aren’t what comes to mind when thinking about migratory predators of chickens, but these clever canines are known to wander in territories ranging from less than a quarter of a mile to twenty square miles.

Foxes are most likely to roam to a different territory in late summer/early autumn when the kits are old enough to leave the den. With their lack of hunting experience, young foxes are likely to focus on easy-to-catch prey such as a chicken.

Other reasons foxes may relocate include a lack of food and an increase in natural predators such as coyotes.

Sly and unseen, foxes can migrate into your neighborhood without you even noticing. Foxes are stealthy hunters, so be sure to keep a close eye on your chickens during supervised free-ranging time to ensure no member of the flock is snatched up by a hungry fox.

Eagles and Falcons: Aerial Chicken Predators

Eagles and falcons are two common migratory predators of chickens. While these two birds of prey can attack your flock at any given time, they have an increased chance during the spring or fall migration, when feed sources may be scarce.

Both the Bald Eagle and the Golden Eagle are likely to prey upon free-ranging chickens and flocks housed in large open pastures without overhead protection.

Falcons are the least likely of the aerial predators discussed in this article to attack your backyard flock, but when they do strike, they are fast and don’t usually miss. Falcons are strong hunters and can easily overpower a chicken, leaving your flock with no self-defense if attacked.

Protect your flock from eagles and falcons by never allowing your flock to free range unless directly supervised by an adult. House chickens in a half-inch 16-gauge hardware cloth-covered run to protect your flock from aerial predators. During migration, keeping your flock confined at all times is the best way to make sure everyone stays safe.

Conclusion: Staying Ahead of Chicken Predators

Many common backyard wildlife are chicken predators, and their activity often follows seasonal or migratory patterns. While this can sound alarming, protecting your flock doesn’t have to be difficult. By keeping your coop and run secure and adjusting free-ranging practices during peak migration or wandering periods, you can stay one step ahead of hawks, raccoons, coyotes, foxes, owls, and other predators. With vigilance and seasonal awareness, your chickens can remain safe year-round.

This article about what are chicken predators including seasonal threats to your flock was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

Do Opossums Kill Chickens? Signs, Risks & Solutions

opossum climbing on a fence near a chicken coop raises the question, do opossums kill chickens
Robert Linder/Unsplash

Do opossums kill chickens? While the opossum will indeed kill a chick or chicken if it is hungry and the opportunity presents itself, this marsupial is actually much maligned.

Having an opossum in the area can actually be beneficial, especially if you live in a rural or agricultural zone.

Why Opossums Can Be Helpful Around Your Yard

Opossums help control the mouse and rat population since these are a staple of the opossum diet. They also consume ticks and are reported to reduce tick populations by 90 percent. They also eat slugs and snails, which is a huge benefit to gardeners.

Opossums are also fastidiously clean, they are resistant to snake venom, and they are rarely rabid (although they can carry the disease). If you notice an opossum trundling around your property, it may be best to just let it be … especially if your flock, coop and run are secured.

Do Opossums Kill Chickens? Understanding Opossum Behavior and Habits

Native to South America, the opossum (Didelphis virginiana) established its presence in the United States and Canada during the 1920s. While it’s uncertain how the opossum arrived in North America, records indicate that this cat-sized omnivore was once farmed for both its grey-and-white pelt and its meat.

Although its natural habitat consists of forests and fields, the opossum easily adapts to inhabit agricultural and suburban zones. It is the only marsupial in North America: the females will carry their young in pouches just like kangaroo mothers.

Nocturnal by nature, the opossum emerges at nightfall for nine or so hours of activity before returning to its shelter just before dawn. Its keen eyesight—more than twice as sharp as human vision—allows it to see easily in the dark.

What Opossums Eat and How They Hunt

Opossums are opportunistic animals, which is why you’ll sometimes find them with your chickens. They have adapted to eat anything: fish, frogs, insects, rodents, and reptiles. A skilled scavenger, opossums can survive on carrion and on the biowaste in our garbage bins and compost piles.

Orchards and vegetable gardens provide plenty of food for opossums … as do chickens and their coops. Despite its fearsome appearance—beady eyes, scaly pink tail and a mouth bearing close to 50 razor-sharp teeth—the opossum is a non-confrontational hunter. Opossums prefer to help themselves to eggs, chicks and nesting hens versus chickens that fight back or attack.

Do Opossums Kill Chickens? Signs Your Coop Was Raided

Invasive opossums may be long gone by the time you release your chickens in the morning. Still, look for telltale signs that an opossum raided your henhouse overnight. Empty, discarded eggshells show that an opossum collected your chickens’ eggs for you and ate them on-site.

While missing chicks can be attributed not just to an opossum but also to a variety of predators, a dead chicken with its underbelly or chest torn open and its insides missing or scattered clearly indicates one or more opossums stopped by for dinner.

How Opossums Access Chicken Coops

There’s always a possibility that you may encounter an opossum on your property. If you leave your garage door open, if you keep your trash bin outside, if you have an outdoor pet shelter with a food bowl, chances are an opossum will eventually come by.

Opossums can also find a way into the coop with your chickens simply by climbing your run’s fence.

Opossums are designed to climb. Each of their feet has five toes, including opposable thumbs, giving this animal the ability and agility to grip fence wiring quite securely (its tail is also prehensile). Once an opossum climbs down the other side of your run fence, it can just stroll right on into your coop.

What to Do If You Encounter One

Should you encounter an opossum, be ready for quite a show. Two shows, in fact. A cornered opossum may hiss, growl, bare its teeth and even snap its jaws at you.

A more likely reaction, however, is that it will “play possum.” The animal freezes and lies so still that it appears dead. If left alone, the opossum will recover from this catatonic state in one to four hours.

Just because the animal is playing possum does not mean he’s more easily handled in this state. Contact your local animal control officer or an animal-removal service.

Do Opossums Kill Chickens? How to Protect Your Flock

Unfortunately, there is no fence tall enough to keep an opossum out. This talented climber will nimbly scale the tallest enclosure if it thinks there are easy pickings or there’s a safe shelter inside. To protect your chickens against opossums accessing your coop via your run, you’ll need to put a cover over it.

Some sort of permanent roof or a section of wire fencing that securely attaches to your existing fence should do the trick.

Do not use chicken wire, as this is not meant to keep intruders out but rather keep your flock in. Predators can easily tear through flimsy chicken wire, so avoid using this material at all. An added bonus to covering your run is that you will also deter aerial predators such as hawks and owls.

Other preventative measures include installing a motion-sensor light over your coop’s entrance, adding a rooster to your flock, and setting up live traps baited with fruit and kitchen scraps.

Coexisting With Opossums on Your Property

My husband Jae and I first noticed opossums on our acreage about five years ago, at about the same time we started having to live-trap rats. (Our silly hens—and some unfortunate songbirds—kept setting off the kill traps.) My first thought was “Great! Another pest to deal with!” My second was, do opossums kill chickens?

By the end of the summer, our rodent problem was over. I haven’t seen a single rat or mouse since, although our neighbor regularly informs me that she keeps finding rodent remains in her yard.

I also know for a fact that our birds refuse to eat ticks. Even our guineas, when we had them, refused to eat ticks. But our property has been tick-free ever since the opossums arrived.

So, do opossums kill chickens? Yes, they can be poultry predators, but their good outweighs the bad. We may not be all hugs and kisses, especially after we spent a very frustrating time trying to coax a juvenile opossum out of our Orpington coop. (The little thing kept playing dead on us and the Orpingtons were fussily clucking in the run, wanting to roost for the night.)

We finally scooped the little marsupial up with a garden hoe and sent him on his way, hopefully, to keep eating rodents and insects in a careful coexistence with our poultry … and with us.

This article about do opossums kill chickens was written for Chickens and Hobby Farms magazines. Click here to subscribe.

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Poultry

How to Take Care of Chickens After A Predator Attack

fox holding a dead chicken knowing how to take care of chickens after a predator attack is important
Adobe Stock/Tatiana

How to take care of chickens after a predator attack is necessary for both your flock’s and your own safety. Unfortunately, predator attacks can happen at any time, so it’s vital to learn how to protect chickens from predators and keep yourself protected, too. 

How Do I Know if My Flock Has Been Attacked?

While chickens are prone to feather picking and can draw blood, it is usually fairly obvious if a predator or their flock mates have attacked the injured chicken.

Victims of a predatory attack will usually have deeper wounds, and depending on the prey, visible bite marks. You may also notice that the entire flock seems to be traumatized and dazed. Another clear indication of a predator attack is when more than one chicken has been injured.

Bear in mind that many chickens who have been attacked by predators will not survive the attack. These chickens may have their entrails eaten out, heads removed, wings and legs broken or eaten off, and remains scattered about.

Moving the Flock to Safety

How to take care of chickens after a predator attack should start with moving everyone to safety. Confine uninjured chickens to the coop if possible.

If the coop or run is where the attack happened, load the chickens into a large dog crate and move them temporarily to your basement. Make necessary repairs to prevent further attacks before moving the remaining flock members back to the coop.

5 Tips for How to Take Care of Chickens After An Attack

Knowing how to take care of chickens during or after a predator attack can literally be the difference between life and death. Caring for the victim isn’t a once-and-done job, nor is it a one-step process. While each case is different, here are five tips that are helpful no matter what predators you have encountered.

1. Gloves on!

How to take care of chickens during a predator attack begins with taking necessary precautions to protect yourself. If your flock has been attacked by a predator, the first step is to don a pair of heavy work gloves. Gloves should be worn to handle both injured and deceased chickens at all times.

Wearing gloves will protect you from becoming exposed to certain diseases, such as rabies and leptospirosis. Many predators, including the mouths of domestic dogs, contain harmful bacteria, so wearing gloves is the best way to ensure you don’t get sick.

2. Isolate the Victims

One of the first steps of how to take care of chickens after an attack is isolation. Isolating the victim(s) is essential to prevent the healthy flock members from bullying or turning cannibalistic toward them.

While it’s tempting to leave the injured flock member with their chicken friends, this is not the best option for your flock.

Set up a makeshift chicken hospital in your basement, spare bedroom or bath, or even a corner of the living room where she will be safe, and you can keep a close eye on her.

Important Note: If you have other pets in the house, be sure to confine them or the chicken in a separate room to avoid stressing the chicken and prevent accidental injuries.

3. Clean the Wounds

Wash any visible wounds with lukewarm (not hot) water and a mild soap. Next, clean the wounds with peroxide. Let the peroxide sit on the injured area for several minutes before thoroughly rinsing with clean water. The peroxide will burn, so having an extra set of hands to help restrain the chicken can be helpful. Wear disposable gloves/medical gloves at all times when cleaning the wounds and restraining the chicken.

4. Call the Vet

How to care for chickens after a predator attack should include a visit to the vet. Finding a vet who treats chickens can be tricky, but vet care is a must for the chicken to recover.

A vet will prescribe strong antibiotics, clean the wound with disinfectants, stop the bleeding, take radiographs to ensure there are no internal injuries, splint broken legs and wings, and perform a humane euthanasia if the chicken’s injuries are beyond repair.

5. Clean up the Mess

How to take care of chickens comes with some disturbing jobs. None is worse than cleaning up your beloved flock’s remains. While it may not be fun, all remains, feather clumps, and blood need to be cleaned up and properly disposed of to help prevent future attacks. Remains should be buried two feet underground or sent to a pet cemetery for cremation.

Never dump remains on your or someone else’s property, as this practice may be against the law in some areas, and the remains will attract unwanted predators to your flock.

3 Things Not to Do After A Predator Attack

How to take care of chickens after a predator attack includes knowing what not to do. Be sure to check out this list to avoid making these deadly mistakes.

1. Refusing Medical Attention

While the high costs of vet bills and the inconvenience of having to travel far distances may not sound appealing, refusing medical attention for your chicken(s) is an unacceptable practice.

2. How to Take Care of Chickens So They Don’t Suffer

Sometimes the surviving victims’ injuries are life-threatening and the chance of recovery is slim. In these circumstances, the best option is to humanely cull or euthanize the victim(s).

This may not be an easy decision, especially if the chicken is a beloved family pet, but it may be in the best interest of the bird. Under no circumstances is it okay to let your chicken(s) suffer needlessly, so even if it’s hard, letting them go may be the best decision.

3. Repeating the Offense

Knowing how to take care of chickens includes learning from your mistakes. There is no better place to put this to action than the aftermath of a predator attack.

How, when, and where the chickens were attacked will best help you avoid making the same mistake again. Here’s a list of questions to ask yourself.

  • Were the chickens free-ranging at the time of the attack?
  • Did the predator attack inside the coop or run?
  • Were the chickens let outdoors overnight to roost?

If the chickens were free-ranging, confine them to a run or chicken tractor in the future to prevent future attacks. Continuing to allow your flock to free-range is guaranteed to invite further attacks, so be sure to keep everyone confined and safe. Unfortunately, this means forever, as the predator will be back to attack if you let your guard down.

If the predator gained access to the coop or run, thoroughly check the enclosures for weak spots the predator entered through and fix accordingly. Make sure to use the proper chicken fencing so it’s up to the task.

Last, but not least, if the attack happened when chickens were left outdoors overnight, lock them into a secure coop before dusk. If your chickens aren’t used to going into the coop, entice them to walk in with a trail of scratch or other treats.

Removing Predators from a Backyard Chicken Flock

Sometimes, predators will refuse to leave the crime scene. This doesn’t usually happen, but if you find yourself in this situation, here’s what to do.

  1. Do not approach the predator. Instead, try making loud noises to scare the predator. i.e., shouting, banging two metal trash can lids together, etc.

  2. Call the local Game Commission and report your problem.

  3. Provide an escape for the predator. (This works for weasels and other mustelids who have consumed too much food and can no longer squeeze through the hole from which they entered.) Removing all living chickens from the coop and leaving the coop door wide open will usually convince these predators to leave.

How to Take Care of Chickens After a Predator Attack: Treating Traumatized Birds

Predator attack survivors (both chickens that have been attacked and those who have only witnessed the attack) are usually traumatized. Sadly, some chickens never recover from the trauma and go on to live their lives in fear.

Providing your flock with mental enrichment, such as treat balls, chicken xylophones, and swings, and spending time with them may help your flock recover from their trauma.

As always, prevention is key, so be extra vigilant to prevent future attacks. Nothing traumatizes surviving victims more than a repeated offense.

How to Take Care of Chickens After a Predator Attack: Final Thoughts

Knowing how to take care of chickens after a predator attack is necessary to protect you and your flock. And will help you know how to give the victim(s) their best surviving chance.

This article about how to take care of chickens after a predator attack was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.