Categories
Farm Management

Fire Safety on the Farm

Barn fires can start and spread very fast
Courtesy Jupiterimages/
BananaStock/Thinkstock
Barn fires spread quickly and are extremely hot.

“The morning of the fire can easily be described as the worst day of my life. Everything that meant so much was taken away with no warning,” says Wisconsin resident Vickey Hollingsworth.

The memories are as raw today as they were in 2004, when she and her mother lost three horses in a barn fire where they were boarding their horses.

“The feelings are best described as suffocating helplessness. To be only feet away but unable to reach out and save those trapped inside, to watch in shock as the structure collapses on the animals you love so much, there just aren’t words.”

Hobby Farm HomeFire is an ever-present concern on small, rural farms. Because of the distance from help, any structure that ignites could be engulfed in flames before emergency workers arrive.

The National Fire Protection Association, the international nonprofit authority on fire, electrical and building safety, has compiled information from its surveys and studies that shows:

  • Cooking equipment is the leading cause of home-structure fires and home-fire injuries.
  • Smoking is the leading cause of civilian home-fire deaths.
  • Heating equipment ranks second in home-fire deaths overall.
  • Heating equipment is the leading cause of fires in barns.
  • Barn-structure fires are most frequent in late winter and early spring.
  • Barn fires are not small: Half of all barn-structure fires involve the entire building.

Several years ago, Laurie Loveman, author, horse owner and member of the NFPA Technical Committee on Fire Safety in Animal Housing Facilities, began tracking media-reported animal deaths caused by fires in a chart posted on her website.

“I am upset every time I have to add more information to it,” says Loveman. “My original intent was to see what factors were involved—to find patterns. What I found through keeping this chart was that, in almost every instance, animals were dying in preventable fires, and the cost of prevention was very low when compared to economic disruptions. But, economics aside, the emotional toll suffered, not just by owners, but by the firefighters on scene who are subjected to the screams of the dying and the smell of death, can stay with them for the rest of their lives.”

Farmhouse fires are more likely to start in older farmhouses
Courtesy iStockphoto/Thinkstock
While charming, many older farmhouses harbor fire hazards, such as old, faulty wiring, that could be fixed by a licensed contractor.

Farm Fire Prevention
Fire safety starts with fire prevention. Whether it’s a wildfire or a structure fire, preventing it or limiting its damage takes work and planning. Be prepared with a few simple updates and provisions.

Building and Remodeling
Farmhouses: Old farmhouses can hold particular charm as well as unique fire hazards. Many pre-1940s farmhouses with two or more levels used balloon-frame construction. Instead of being built in post-and-frame style, they were built using studs that ran two or more stories from foundation to eave. The spaces remaining between the studs provide a path for fire to spread. Check with an experienced, licensed contractor: Adding fire stops might be an option for correcting the problem.

Old wiring and fuse boxes designed for simple lighting needs won’t handle today’s electronic cravings. Clothes dryers, dishwashers, water heaters and electronic gadgets in old farmhouses need a system built to handle their modern needs. Adding new wire will only add to the load of the old wires and possibly start a fire in the wall. Putting in a larger amp fuse will not solve the problem and will eliminate the only safety factor, letting a larger flow of current into a system that can’t handle it. Have your system upgraded properly by a trained technician.

If you build new or as you remodel, add fireproofing to construction materials or consider construction materials that are fire-resistant. Farmhouses built of concrete, for example, such as those using Insulated Concrete Forms, may reduce the risks. Concrete does not burn, soften or bend. Consider Class A fire-retardant roofing materials and exterior coverings.

Barn and outbuildings: If you remodel an old barn or outbuilding, updating the electrical system is essential. Have a licensed electrical contractor install plenty of outlets to avoid the use of extension cords in the barn—it doesn’t take long for them to fray, crack or lose the ground prong.

Loveman says misuse of electricity is a major factor in most barn fires. She says the main culprits are electrical malfunctions and the use of nonagricultural-rated box fans, portable heaters and heat lamps.

Make the shutoff switch easily accessible with the ability to cut power to the barn separate from water pumps or other buildings. Loveman suggests enclosing all wiring in metal conduit to protect it from corrosion, animals and other damage. The cut ends of conduit need to be filed smooth so they don’t wear through the wire insulation.

Consider incorporating other fire-prevention methods:

  • fire stops
  • fire-retardant coatings
  • interior wall and ceiling finish materials
  • sprinkler systems
  • smoke alarms and smoke-suppression systems
  • fire alarms

Wood structures are not the only ones susceptible to burning. According to the University of Missouri Extension’s “Improving Fire Resistance of Farm Buildings,” there’s a common misconception that metal buildings are “fireproof.” A fire would most likely start with a stored product in these buildings, but the unprotected metal-frame building will fail more quickly than a wooden structure. According to the UM Extension, “As soon as metal structural members get hot, their strength decreases rapidly. The result can be complete structural collapse long before actual flames spread through the building.”

If you’re considering building a new barn, check out “NFPA 150: Standard on Fire and Life Safety in Animal Housing Facilities.” The site requires a simple first-time signup for access to the 2009 edition. Its barn-construction advice—from door height and width to using only commercial electrical appliances and not using the barn aisles for permanent storage—is worth reviewing.

Landscaping
Whatever your rural structure, plan your landscaping carefully. Poor positioning and maintenance can help a fire or wildfire spread.

For each structure, start at the building and work your way out, says Michele Steinberg, Firewise Communities program manager for the NFPA. She suggests:

  • Ensure roofs, decks, porches and fences are clear of needles, dead leaves and other debris that could ignite from embers or firebrands in a wildfire.
  • Make a fuel-free area within 3 to 5 feet of the perimeter of your home and outbuildings. Consider bare earth, river rock or gravel as alternatives to shrubs or grass.
  • Keep grass trimmed low within 30 feet of the structures, and keep it well-watered, if possible, during fire season.
  • Remove dead or dying trees, shrubs and other plants within 30 to 50 feet of the structure. Thin trees within this area so that crowns are at least 30 feet apart.
  • When putting in new landscaping, choose “fire-wise” plants. While all plants can burn, fire-resistant species have moist and supple leaves, water-like sap, and little dead wood; they tend not to accumulate dry material.
Practice fire evacuation
Courtesy Brand X Pictures/Brand X Pictures/Thinkstock
Develop and practice a fire escape plan so you know what to do in the event of an emergency.

Fire Evacuation
Whether it’s a structure fire or a wildfire, the keys to a safe evacuation are planning and practicing.

“Talking to your local sheriff and your local fire department is a smart first step,” says Steinberg. “Also check out the ‘Ready, Set, Go!’ tips provided by the International Association of Fire Chiefs.”

If a fire occurs in the house or barn, you may have little time to escape. According to the NFPA, a third of American households who made an estimate thought they would have at least six minutes before a fire in their home would become life-threatening. The actual time available is often considerably less than that estimate.

House Fires and Family Evacuation
In the event of a house fire, keep your family safe with these planning and prevention tips:

  • Develop a fire-escape plan and make sure everyone knows it.
  • Practice the fire-escape plan during the day and at night without lights.
  • Know the best routes for a fire evacuation.
  • Designate a place outside the house or a location outside the area as a meeting spot to make sure everyone is OK.
  • Have a common contact person outside the area to text or call in case local phone service is down.
  • Be aware of “fire weather,” when extremely dry, windy conditions increase burning dangers.
  • Don’t try to fight a fire on your own. Prevailing winds can make a small grass or brush fire deadly. Call for help.

Barn Fires and Animal Evacuation
The American Veterinary Medicine Association’s online guide, “Saving the Whole Family,” walks you through the steps of a barn-fire evacuation.

Horse vaccination
Courtesy iStockphoto/Thinkstock
To prepare your livestock for fire evacuation, make sure they have received updated vaccinations.

Dr. Heather Case, AVMA coordinator for emergency preparedness and response, suggests these major points to keep in mind:

  • Consider what you will do before something happens. “The key and challenge for each hobby farmer is to develop a plan for their specific property and animals,” says Case.
  • “Ask if the local fire department could visit your farm to provide a safety check of the facility, to learn access points and to get familiar with the types of animals. Ask questions: If there is a fire in one building, when is it a concern to evacuate your entire property?”
  • “Know your animals and how they react,” says Case. “Remain calm because animals will react to how you are reacting.” If possible, move herd animals, such as horses, together.
  • Know what transportation resources you have available. Having a trailer (or easy access to one), leashes and leads, and pet carriers for small animals is essential.
  • Keep animals current on vaccinations. Keep copies of records in an emergency kit.
  • Locate and prearrange an evacuation site for your animals outside your immediate area, such as show grounds, stables, fairgrounds, stockyards or other boarding facilities.
  • Determine where on your property you could move animals to keep them safely away from a structure fire or to keep them safe from a wildfire if they cannot be evacuated.
  • Properly identify your animals. Case says that could mean anything from microchipping pets to braiding luggage tags into horses’ manes to using a livestock marking pen to write on an animal’s coat. Include an alternative contact outside the area in case local phone service is down.
  • Develop a list of police, fire, veterinary and emergency-management contacts.
  • Practice your escape and evacuation plans, and refine them. “It may look easy to put animals in carriers but going out and doing it when things are chaotic is something else,” she says. Work with your vet to develop a medical-response kit for your animals.

“It’s a matter of knowing your environment, your animals, your situation and the safest place on your property if relocating is not required or possible,” says Dr. Case.

The Fire Aftermath
The barn fire made Hollingsworth “painfully aware of the vulnerability of life. We hang in the balance between breath and death, and the pendulum swings without warning. In an instant, life can be erased, as if it was never there,” she says.

“For years after the fire, I would wake in the middle of the night in a panic, paralyzed with fear that my house or barn was burning. I would check and double-check and triple-check cords, switches, and breakers, searching for anything that might ignite a blaze. Over the years, the gripping fear has given way to a more healthy form of cognizant vigilance.”

Fire is a potential hazard on any small farm, sparked by anything from weather to human error. Bend the odds in your favor. Give your place a thorough safety review, make necessary changes, and develop plans for what to do in a worst-case scenario.

 

Categories
Homesteading Recipes

Bread-Baking Problems

Homemade Bread from Hobby Farms

Trust your instinct when it comes to making homemade bread
Courtesy Comstock Images/Comstock/
Thinkstock
A secret to making good bread is trusting your instincts during the baking process

Successfully baking bread takes practice, but it is very doable. Some of the most common problems faced by new and not-so-new bakers have avoidable causes and easy solutions.

Don’t let the constant fear of bread-baking mishaps keep you out of the kitchen. Dust off the bread pans, pull out the big bag of flour, and get ready to knead some dough worry-free.

Follow Your Instinct
How many times have you moaned, “But I followed the recipe perfectly!” while looking at an inedible mess covering your kitchen counter? What went wrong? How could it have gotten so messed up when you meticulously followed the bread recipe, step by step?

That’s what went wrong. You followed the directions, not your hands or eyes.

In generations past, baking was an enjoyable activity that rarely required a cookbook. Remember how Grandma would just toss handfuls of flour and a glass of water in the bowl, mixing it until it looked “right?” It turned out just fine! Today’s bakers need to adopt that sort of trust in their culinary instincts.

This is not to say that people should toss cookbooks out the window and just grab a bit of this and a lot of that, expecting perfectly formed loaves of bread as the final results. Not at all. Instead, experts encourage bakers to learn what dough should look and feel like, and not be afraid to “tweak” the recipe here and there to get the desired result.

Bread varies depending upon the environment. A wet and rainy day can result in a different dough than a loaf baked on a dry and hot summer afternoon. The dough might need less liquid on that wet day. Novice bakers often don’t know this, and they instead add the ingredients as listed in the recipe without paying attention to the dough in front of them.

Top Bread-baking Troubles
Aside from practicing the art of baking and learning to trust what you see and feel, there are other things you can do to avoid and fix common bread-baking problems.

Gummy bread

Gummy bread can result from slicing into the bread loaf before it’s completely cooled. It might feel nearly impossible to resist taking just a nibble, but launching into fresh-from-the-oven bread can ruin the whole loaf.

Before cutting or storing bread, let it cool completely on the kitchen counter, not in the bread pan. Slide the loaf out of the pan, and rest it on its side on a wire cake rack. When it is time to cut off a slice (or 10), always use a sharp serrated knife.

Flour dilemma

All flours are not created equal. A recipe that calls for unbleached all-purpose white flour can’t be interchanged equally in a recipe with whole-wheat flour or bread flour. Results will not be the same or even desirable, leading to a failed loaf or one with too tough a crust.

Even unbleached and bleached flours differ in protein content, which results in different outcomes. When a recipe does not specify which flour to use, default to the all-purpose unbleached variety.

Kneading time

Kneading improperly stands out as a top cause of bread-baking snafus. Sure, you can let a stand mixer do the job, but kneading by hand will produce the best results, if done properly.

Too thick of a crust or large holes in the bread can result from too much kneading, while a sour flavor, flat bread top, soggy loaf or one that sags in the middle can stem from too little kneading. Remain patient, work the dough, and know when the dough is done. It should be soft, smooth and springy but not very sticky.

Eight to 10 minutes of kneading with lightly floured hands on a lightly floured surface is a crucial bread-baking step. Kneading remains a skill best learned through practice, but once mastered, it can result in amazing loaves.

Too much flour

Adding too much flour to the dough as you start to knead is counterproductive. Experts recommend waiting a bit to see if the dough seemingly too wet to work with begins to form a more workable texture before you dump handfuls of flour on the work surface. When needed, use pinches of flour—not handfuls—as you knead.

Dough doesn’t rise

Using old yeast, even if it has not yet expired, usually causes bread failure. Proof the yeast first to make sure it’s good, and use lukewarm water—not hot or cold water—when adding it to the recipe. Yeast can even be stored in the freezer to help it last longer.

Loaves that don’t rise can also develop from old yeast, improper flour choice, wrong baking temperatures, the addition of salt to the yeast instead of the dry ingredients, improper measurement of ingredients and incorrect kneading techniques.

Collapsed loaf

Bread that collapses in the oven results from letting the loaf over-rise for too long of a time or in too hot of temperatures. This also can happen if the oven is not hot enough during baking. Use an oven thermometer to test that the temperature gauge and the internal temperature of the oven match.

Despite many potential trouble spots, remember that there are just as many answers and solutions to smooth out the journey from mixing ingredients to eating a fresh slice of homemade bread.

Don’t feel afraid of baking bread. Instead, view it as a creative outlet. Anyone involved in the creative pursuits in life knows that mistakes make great stepping stones toward success, so don’t fear them. Experts compare baking to modern-day art, so feel free to let your artistic side take over in the kitchen and bake away.

Categories
Equipment

Tool Dictionary

Tools
Courtesy Digital Vision/Digital Vision/
Thinkstock

When my cousin Curt forwarded a virtual copy of the Tool Dictionary, I appreciated the humor and irony in the definitions. In case you haven’t seen the list, it takes common tools from the shop and applies twisted definitions to them.

The definitions that made me chuckle the hardest were those that struck closest to home, like:

Pliers: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.” 

That one is oh-too true, as are others, like:

Screwdrivers: Designed for stripping out screw heads, opening paint cans, used as pry bars and punches.”

Of course, the reality is that with many tools, they can have multiple uses. As the old saying goes, “To a hammer, all the world is a nail.” When we don’t have the right tool, the next best thing often has to do … and it does. That’s one reason I keep a spike (extra large nail) in my chisel and miscellaneous cutting tools drawer. I also keep a railroad spike in there. It’s amazing how often both have proven useful.

Most of the “tool definitions” are less about invention than they are accidents. Here are a few of my favorites:

  • Table Saw: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
  • Hose Cutter: A tool used to make hoses too short.
  • Hammer: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit.
  • Utility Knife: Used to open and slice through the content of cardboard cartons; works particularly well on contents such as seats, liquids in plastic bottles or plastic parts.

If you have any favorites, please share.

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Categories
News

Online Tool Helps Select Cover Crops

Alfalfa
Courtesy Tom Brakefield/Stockbyte/
Thinkstock

The MCCC Cover Crop Decision Tool is designed to help farmers in the Midwest choose the best cover crop for their farms, whether it be alfalpha, clover, rye or another crop.

A new online tool to help farmers decide which cover crops will benefit their row-crop rotation is now available for Ohio, Michigan and Indiana.

The Midwest Cover Crops Council’s Cover Crop Decision Tool uses consolidated cover-crop information by state or province to assist farmers in making cover-crop selections at the county level. The MCCC first released the tool in February 2011, providing information for farmers in Indiana, Michigan and Ohio, and is currently working on updating the database for Wisconsin, Minnesota and Ontario. When completed the tool will also include Illinois and Iowa; work is set to begin on information for these states later this year.

Developing information for each state or province are university researchers, extension educators, Natural Resources Conservation Service personnel, state departments of agriculture personnel, crop advisers, seed suppliers and farmers.

“The MCCC hopes the cover-crop selector tool will encourage the adoption of cover crops by providing the information and decision-making help necessary for farmers to successfully integrate cover crops into their cropping systems,” says Eileen Kladivko, an agronomy professor at Purdue University who contributed to the project.

To use the tool, farmers select their state or province and county. They also can provide information about their cash crops, including planting and harvest dates; field information, such as the soil drainage class, artificial drainage or flooding; and desired cover-crop benefits.

Designed to be user-friendly, the tool allows farmers to immediately see how their input changes their cover-crop options. Farmers can then generate an information sheet for a selected cover crop, such as clover, that provides additional information and references relevant to application within the state or province.

Funding for the project was made available through a Natural Resources Conservation Service Innovation Grant, Michigan State University’s Project GREEEN (Generating Research and Extension to meet Economic and Environmental Needs) and the Great Lakes Regional Water Program.

Categories
Urban Farming

From Seed to Soda Bottle

PlantBottles

Courtesy The Coca-Cola Company

Many companies are using plant-based packaging for their products, including The Coca-Cola Company, which created the PlantBottle.

Cruise the grocery aisle and many products you’re familiar with might appear to be the same tried-and-true products you’ve always known. Chances are good, though, that their packaging has gotten a makeover.

Manufacturers of popular brands like Coca-Cola, SunChips, Stonyfield Farm and Newman’s Own Organics have made the switch from plastic containers to plant-based packaging.

According to market research firm EL Insights, 27 percent of products sold at major U.S. retailers were made with sustainable packaging in 2010. That number is expected to increase to 37 percent by 2011.

“Environmental groups have done a great job of telling companies that we don’t like their toxic plastic and petroleum products,” says Stephanie Barger, executive director of the Earth Resource Foundation, an environmental educational nonprofit organization. “There is more awareness [of the dangers of plastic] and efforts to reduce its use.”

Those efforts appear to be working. Stonyfield Farm estimates that swapping the petroleum-based cups for its multipack yogurt products helped cut its greenhouse-gas emissions by 48 percent. Coca-Cola introduced PlantBottle, a recyclable bottle partially made from sugar-based ethanol that reduced the company’s petroleum use by 79,000 barrels in 2010.

But plastic containers aren’t the only packages receiving a plant-based makeover.

Frito-Lay began packaging SunChips in bags made from 90 percent plant-based materials in 2010. According to the company, the bags are compostable and will completely break down in an active compost pile in 14 weeks. (If the bags are sent to the landfill, they will decompose eventually, but the process is not as efficient.)

Plant-based packaging is made from polylactic acid, or PLA, a compostable polymer made from starch, including corn and sugarcane.

The advantages to PLA packaging include the obvious switch from petroleum to plant sources, which requires less energy and releases fewer greenhouse gases during the manufacturing process. The crops used to make PLA capture carbon as they grow, which offers an additional benefit to plant-based packaging.

One of the biggest concerns about PLA packaging, however, is whether it lives up to the eco hype.

Stonyfield Farm replaced non-recyclable polystyrene plastic packaging with plant-based yogurt cups, but the PLA products are not recyclable or compostable in most communities. According to the Stonyfield Farm website, the technology to recycle the plant-based containers is too limited to be feasible. Composting isn’t an option either.

In order for PLA packaging to biodegrade, it needs to be in a controlled composting environment, according to the Biodegradable Products Institute. Backyard compost bins do not fit the bill. PLA packaging needs to be sent to large-scale composting facilities in order to break down—and most people don’t have access to such facilities, which means plant-based packages end up in the trash.

Even if the cups could be composted, it might do more harm than good. A statement on the Stonyfield website reads:

“… the independent review of PLA’s environmental impact found that composting is not the best option for disposing of the cups … it would release the carbon dioxide (CO2) in the plant-based plastic (CO2 absorbed by the corn when it was growing) back into the atmosphere where it would contribute to global warming.”

The other issue is that most PLA packaging is manufactured from corn. According to the USDA’s Economic Research Service, up to 70 percent of corn grown in the U.S. contains genetically-modified organisms, or GMOs, which raises concerns about environmental damage, impacts on wildlife and the potential for GMO crops to pollinate organic crops.

“It takes a lot of fertilizer, pesticides and water to grow these crops,” Barger says. “Switching to bio-plastics [like PLA] opens a Pandora’s box.”

Barger also worries that manufacturing single-serving containers, even if they’re made out of plant materials, perpetuates a disposable culture.

“We need to stop using single-serving, disposable packages—no matter what they’re made of,” she says. “Our goal is to work toward zero waste, not change the type of waste.”

Categories
Animals

Getting Shorn

Shearing sheep
Photo by Sue Weaver
Paul Ahrens shears our sheep.

Our sheep were supposed to get shorn today, but it rained last night so now they can’t. They’re relieved and upset at the same time. They don’t like to be caught and rolled into all those weird positions, but they say it’s nice to feel the cool breeze on their skins afterward.

I talked about shearing sheep last year, but I didn’t mention why it must be done. Most sheep’s fleeces—except for double-coated British and Scandinavian breeds like Shetland sheep and Soay that roo, or naturally shed their wooly undercoats—keep growing until you cut them off. If you don’t, those sheep are in trouble.

Cast sheep
Photo by Sue Weaver
Nick got cast, but Mom helped him up again.

Arthritic sheep, obese sheep in late pregnancy and sheep with extra long fleeces sometimes get cast. That means they lie down in the usual way but somehow lose their balance and roll up onto their sides or even on their backs. Because they’re so stiff or fat or their fleeces are so thick, they can’t get their legs back under them to set themselves up again, so they’re stuck with their legs stuck up or straight out to the sides.

Remember when I talked about ruminants’ stomachs? Our rumens are huge and  heavy, and when a sheep is cast, its rumen presses hard against its lungs. Unless someone comes along and helps the sheep up, pretty soon it can’t breathe and it suffocates. This is not an unusual occurrence. Our granny sheep, Rebaa, died when she got cast late at night and no one found her until morning.

Hair sheep
Photo by Sue Weaver
Because Mopple is a hair sheep, he doesn’t have to be shorn.

Unshorn sheep can also die from heat stroke, a dangerous problem when it’s extra hot and humid outside. 

And, a long, ragged fleece is miserably itchy. Can’t you just imagine? I can!

So, it’s off with our sheep’s fleeces, except for Mopple. He gets to keep his fleece. That’s because he’s 75 percent Dorper and 25 percent Katahdin, two types of hair sheep called “shedders,” which grow short wool that naturally sheds in June or July. 

Some kinds of hair sheep don’t grow wool at all; they have hair all over their bodies. That’s what all sheep looked like until ancient humans began selecting sheep for longer wool and a tendency not to shed. That way all of their wool could be harvested at one time instead of rooing it (combing or picking it off by hand) over a period of several weeks’ time. 

Our shearer, Paul Ahrens, rescheduled our sheep’s haircuts until next Saturday. The sheep heaved sighs of relief. But Mom will be watching extra closely to make sure no one gets cast. She’ll be really, really glad when the shearing is done.      

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Categories
Urban Farming

Dreams Do Come True—Sort Of

Spanish Mustang horse

Photo by Audrey Pavia

Rio, my Spanish Mustang, has been my dream come true.

As a lifelong horse lover, I’ve always had the dream of raising my own baby horse. Well, at least since I was 9 years old.

My fantasies were elaborate. I’d have a ranch up in the mountains, surrounded by pine trees. My horses — all spotted Appaloosas — would live in a big paddock shaded by the trees. I wanted Appaloosas because they were the horses of the Native Americans, the mounts of the brave Nez Perce of Idaho, a breed with color and history.

My ranch would look like something you’d see on a postcard. In the fall, the aspen leaves would turn golden-yellow. In the winter, the scene would be blanketed with snow. Come spring, wild flowers would spring up in just the right places. Come summer, the sweet smell of pine bark would fill the air.

I’d breed one of my spotted mares, and she’d give birth to a beautiful foal in early spring. The foal would have spots, too. In fact, he’d be black as obsidian, with a white blanket on his rump, covered with huge black sunspots.

In my dream, I’d raise this baby horse, teaching him how to lead, eventually showing him how to respond to voice commands, and finally breaking him to ride. We’d spend hours trail riding, roaming through the mountains, crossing rushing creeks and stopping to gaze at alpine lakes and the eagles that soar over them.

While it was a wonderful fantasy, that’s not exactly how things turned out. Instead of a spread up in the mountains, I have a half-acre ranchette in a far-reaching suburb of Los Angeles. There are no pine trees, no snowy winters and no alpine lakes. But one aspect of the dream did come true—I am raising my own spotted horse.

While Rio wasn’t bred by me or even born in the state where I live, let alone on my own property (I had him shipped here from a breeder in Texas), he’s beautiful and does have a slew of spots. He’s not an Appaloosa, but he’s something better: a Spanish Mustang, the true horse of the Indians and the source of the Appaloosa’s color.

The fantasy also differs from reality in the training aspect. Rio was almost 2 years old when I got him, so he was already halter broke and knew how to lead. My friend and trainer Lisa took over his education as soon as he got here, teaching him how to pony (be led by a rider on another horse), how to obey voice commands, and eventually, how to wear a saddle and bridle.

A couple of weeks ago, Lisa began riding Rio. She started him out in a 50-foot round pen and graduated him to carrying her through the barn aisles of a friend’s boarding stable down the street.

The other day, Lisa texted me that she rode Rio on the trail from the stable back to my house — a whopping two blocks. I missed this monumental moment because I was at work when it happened, but I nearly jumped out of my chair with excitement when I got her message.

Rio turned 3 years old in January. Even though his first trail ride wasn’t on a mountain trail with pine trees, bubbling creeks and soaring eagles, it’s still good enough for me. The way I look at it, my fantasy just needed a little readjusting.

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Categories
News

USDA Assesses Alabama Farm Damage

Alabama tornado
Courtesy Alabama Farmers Federation
Ten out of 15 of Dan Smalley’s poultry houses were damaged when tornadoes hit Guntersville, Ala. His chicks were 1 day old at the time.

As Alabama began to dig out from deadly tornadoes that ripped through the Southeast last week, the state’s agricultural leaders met with Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack about programs to help farmers whose lives and livelihoods were impacted by the storms.

Vilsack joined Janet Napolitano, secretary of Homeland Security; Craig Fugate, FEMA administrator; Shaun Donovan, secretary of Housing and Urban Development; and Karen Mills, Small Business Administration administrator; on a tour of tornado-ravaged Pratt City near Birmingham, Ala., on Sunday, May 1, 2011.

Paul Pinyan, executive director of the Alabama Farmers Federation, gave the USDA chief an overview of the agricultural damage in Alabama. In addition to hundreds of poultry houses that were destroyed or damaged by tornadoes, farmers also have been impacted by miles of downed fence, thousands of acres of flattened forest, and tons of debris that littered their fields. Farmers in northern Alabama also have burned hundreds of gallons of fuel to keep generators running during the prolonged power outage.

Within hours of last week’s storms, the Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries activated the Emergency Operations Center, located in the basement of the department’s headquarters in Montgomery, Ala. EOC staffers continue to receive calls about damage to farms, issue burial permits for poultry growers and gather information regarding USDA disaster programs.

Preliminary damage reports indicate that poultry losses were in the millions with more than 200 poultry houses destroyed and an additional 514 damaged. As of Monday afternoon, 38 cows and 19 horses had been reported dead. Department officials expect these numbers to rise as they learn more about the extent of the destruction.

Vilsack noted that producers who’ve suffered poultry and livestock losses may be eligible for assistance through the Livestock Indemnity Program. In addition, the Emergency Conservation Program provides cost-share assistance for fence repair and debris removal, and some losses may be covered by crop insurance or the Noninsured Crop Disaster Assistance Program. The presidential disaster declaration also makes farmers eligible for emergency loans through the USDA, and Vilsack said he would work with state officials to secure a secretarial disaster declaration, which will trigger the Supplemental Revenue Assistance Payments Program (SURE).

“Right now, I want to make sure I get the folks here connected—to make sure we get things done,” Vilsack says.

He also reassured state agriculture leaders, “If there’s a stumbling block, if there’s a hitch—something that’s not getting done—you have my number.

Alabama farm leaders, including John McMillan, Alabama’s commissioner of agriculture and industries, visited with Vilsack for more than an hour as he and fellow cabinet members toured the northwest Birmingham community.

“This is going to be a time when our faith, ingenuity and resolve are going to be tested,” McMillan says. “I flew over North Alabama for four and a half hours (Saturday), and we haven’t even started talking about the rural devastation. It’s going to take a whole lot of resolve and dedication to get through this.”

Farmers can visit their local FSA office to learn more about disaster programs. For assistance regarding damage at animal operations resulting in animal mortality, call the Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries EOC at 334-240-7278.    

 

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Urban Farming

Adirondack Chairs

Adirondack chairs

Photo by Rick Gush

The new Adirondack chairs I built will furnish my new office/workshop.

Despite being an avid gardener, I’m a B-plus-grade carpenter. My cuts are usually off by a 1/16 inch, my sanding and varnishing aren’t so careful, and anything really sophisticated, like a dado joint, is beyond my skill-set. Nonetheless, I make up for my shortcomings with abundant enthusiasm and clever project selection.

The furniture I build can be described as rustic, but there are many situations in which rustic furniture is quite alright. When I married my wife, I built a group of kitchen cabinets and counters decorated with rocks we had collected during our courtship walks on the beaches around here. The work is good looking and sturdy enough, and all the hinges and other moving parts work well. I imagine that those pieces will become family treasures sometime in the future when I’m no longer around. They made the kitchen space much more attractive and usable. Pretty nice stuff if I do say so myself. 

This week, I finished my latest project: a pair of Adirondack chairs for the lounge room of my new office/workshop. I’m crazy for these chairs—they’re the most comfortable un-upholstered chairs possible.

I built quite a few Adirondack chairs when I lived in Las Vegas. I had a half-hearted business for awhile building the chairs and managed to sell several dozen at $350 per chair. That sounds like a lot for a chair, but there’s so much cutting and sanding work involved, I couldn’t charge any less.

I haven’t made Adirondack chairs in about 15 years, so in the last few weeks, I’ve had to fumble along, remembering how to get it all done. In the end, I’m extremely happy with the results. These new chairs not only give me a place to sit but act as the decorative anchor for the lounge room.

My favorite “style” of carpentry is painted white enamel with a trim of varnished wood. The white painted basework allows me to use a lot of stucco and wood putty to square up and fill in, and then the nice varnished trim distracts the eye from the defects in the rest of the construction.

For the new chairs I used the 50-year-old fir shelving and old construction beams left behind in the same room where the chairs now sit. I think the wood is happy to have been re-worked in this way and happy to be able to still be in the room where it has been for the past half century. 

Personally I’ve found my B-plus carpentry to be a highly emotionally satisfying activity. I know I’m not a real carpenter, but the things I can make are very useful and give me the pride of accomplishment. Sure, I’d enjoy being more competent and producing quality pieces like the big boys, but in the meantime, I’m more than happy within my limitations.

Read more of Rick’s Favorite Crops »