Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Tips For Safely Hauling Cattle In A Livestock Trailer

Whether you’re hauling a single steer to the vet or bringing home an entire group of cattle from the sale barn, transporting livestock is a serious task. At some point in your time of raising cattle, you will likely need to either transport some for yourself or find somebody else to do it for you. Although purchasing a livestock trailer can be a large investment, if properly cared for it can last a long time and be a great asset to your homestead.

Once you do get started hauling cattle, here are some tips for not only good trailer care, but also preparing to haul livestock, and safe driving practices while doing so.

Truck & Trailer Maintenance

Keeping your trailer in good working condition is important for not only the longevity of it, but also safety during use. Regularly cleaning out both manure and used bedding will help prevent rust/oxidation from forming and eating away at the metal frame.

If it has a wood floor, ensuring that any repairs needed are done promptly can help to avoid the floor rotting and an animal breaking through. 

Along with regular cleaning, it’s also important to keep lights, brakes and wheel bearings in good working order. As local farmer and cattleman (and my husband) Kolton Krispense points out, the pickup truckyou’re pulling the trailer with needs to be dependable to avoid breaking down and stranding you along the side of a road with a load of cattle.

This can cause undue stress for both you and the cattle, and it can even require calling another truck to come pick up the livestock. 


Read more: Own livestock? You need a reliable trailer.


Pre-Trip Checklist

Each time before you pull out on a trip, do a walk-around of your rig and check it over thoroughly. Inspect the tires to determine if any are low or leaking. Watch for cracking along the outer edge, as this can cause a tire to be more prone to severe failure. Test both your truck and trailer lights to ensure they’re in working order. 

As you walk around, check the wheels for any loose lug nuts. Look over your end gate for any cracks or breaks in the metal, which could potentially be stressed when cattle push against it. And of course, be sure to check your local regulations for complete information regarding vehicle inspections.


Read more: Wooden trailers and wagons have some real advantages.


Safe Driving Tips

Driving a loaded pickup and stock trailer can be a rather intimidating experience at first. Although you might get more comfortable the longer you do it, it’s best to always remain cautious and alert.

While it will vary from load to load, a truck and trailer weigh a lot more than a car and will take a greater distance and time to stop. Keep this in mind as you drive. 

Before you head out, take the time to line the trailer floor with a layer of good bedding material (such as wood chips), which will help the cattle grip the floor and soften the trailer floor over a long distance. 

It can be helpful on larger loads to split the cattle into separate groups, though this will depend on the number of animals you’re hauling and if the trailer has more than one compartment (split by a gate between). Splitting the load can allow them to fit together more snugly in a compartment, so if an incident occurs where the vehicle has to swerve or move quickly, they will be less likely to bounce around in the trailer. 

Once loaded, do your best to both accelerate and come to a stop gently. Plan ahead and start slowing down in plenty of time. Try to provide the animals the smoothest ride you can. 

During the summer, it’s best to avoid hauling cattle in a trailer when it’s extremely hot out, as this stresses the cattle. To avoid this, consider going earlier in the day or later in the evening when cool. Make sure your trailer has good ventilation, allowing plenty of air flow. 

Hauling cattle can be a good learning experience, but it’s one you always need to take seriously. Take your time and do your best to drive safely. Be aware of not only what is going on around you but also in the trailer behind you, as cattle can move and shift about.

Please keep in min that these tips are just some good, basic suggestions to help when hauling cattle. Refer to your state or federal guidelines for proper procedures. Safe travels! 

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden Farm Management Homesteading Permaculture

Invite The Beneficial Praying Mantis Into Your Garden

A praying mantis should be a welcome sight in the garden, despite the insect’s intimidating features. These hugely beneficial insects eat a wide variety of pest insects, mites and bug eggs. Mantid egg cases are, in fact, commonly hatched and released by gardeners looking for general garden pest control without chemicals.

The praying mantis is a hero in any integrated pest management program. Understanding the insect’s benefits, as well as how you can use them in your garden, will serve you well when pest pressure starts to increase.  

Young mantids prey upon smaller soft-bodied insects (aphids, spiders, leafhoppers, mosquitos, flies, etc.), while adults graduate to larger, harder bodied pests (i.e. grasshoppers, caterpillars, crickets, mice, hummingbirds and small tree frogs).

Mantids’ brown and green colors provide stealthy camouflage while they stalk their prey. Their hands are held ready to capture smaller insects in the commonly recognized “praying position.”

Praying Mantises into Your Garden

It’s worth working to build a praying mantis-friendly environment in the garden, as these mighty hunters do a wonderful job of regulating the bug population.

Gardeners can work to attract praying mantis by enticing them with  plants in the rose or raspberry family. In addition, tall grasses and shrubbery offer shelter and security for their habitation. 

You can also purchase or hunt for praying mantis egg cases, known as ootheca, and hatch them to release in your garden.


Read more: Learn all about integrated pest management to control insects in the garden!


Ordering Praying Mantis Egg Cases

Oothecas are brown egg cases

praying mantis garden
Rachel Porter

containing between 50 and 200 individual eggs. Companies will ship these to users who can set them up properly. These providers gather the egg cases from the wild and are unsure of when the egg cases were first developed. So they can’t always give an accurate hatching window, which can be anywhere from 10 days to six weeks after receipt.

Hatching requires temperatures 60 degrees or warmer. Once hatching commences, the entire egg case is hatched within a few hours. Mantids can become cannibalistic if not released soon enough, so it is best to put them in the garden when several have emerged. 

Releasing the eggs is as simple as opening the lid on the provided container. Be sure to space your egg cases properly if you are releasing several at a time. For every 5,000 square feet, three cases are recommended, and you should really try not to order too many to prevent cannibalism.

Oothecs cost between $5 and $45, depending on the species. The pictured mantids are of the Carolina species. Carolina mantises are found more in the Southern states, whereas the Chinese mantis (which is more likely to attack beneficial pests) is mostly found on the East coast. Several species options are out there, so be sure to shop savvy.  

Moderation is key to life. If you try to build a population of too many praying mantises, they might just eliminate other beneficial insects such as lacewing wasps, hover flies, ladybugs and butterflies. However, diversity is key in the organic realm, and adding a healthy balance of these beneficial insects should work well to keep very destructive garden pests at bay. 

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Poultry Poultry Equipment

Chicken General Store: Chic(k) Poultry Products

Chicken Wheelchair

chicken chickens products chicken wheelchair

 

The Chicken Wheelchair is specifically designed for birds weighing less that 17 pounds and suitable for birds with deformed or missing legs. This custom support system has one or two holes for the legs and an opening at the back for elimination.

Chicken Coop Toy

chicken chickens products toys

The wooden Tender Leaf Chicken Coop is made for ages 3 and up and includes a rooster, two hens, eggs, nests and feeder.   

Decorative Steamer

This decorative steamer (pictured above) is made of cast iron with an enamel finish and adds humidity to a room. It can be used on any wood, coal, pellet or corn-burning stove.   

Chick Care Kit

chicken chickens products chick care

The Baby Chick Care Kit includes First Peep feed supplement, Chick E-lixir growth aid, Coop Recuperate coop care and a Baby Chick Success Guide.   

Chicken Poems

chicken chickens products

Author and former chicken-keeper Jane Finch, a member of the International Thriller Writers Inc., takes a break from crime fiction to write poems about our favorite animals for purchase on https://getbook.at/chickens or find out more about her at https://finchlark.webs.com. 

Chicken Change Purse

chicken chickens products crochet

Ideal for stashing change and other small items, this chicken change purse is an easy way to try crocheting. Download the free pattern, and buy all the items you need at www.yarnspirations.com. 

Cutting Board

chicken chickens products cutting board

A personalized cutting board is a unique housewarming, birthday or wedding gift. With multiple options for material, size and engraving, you can customize this cutting board to their favorite flock.   

Chicken Earrings

chicken chickens products earrings

Welcome warmer weather with these chicken-inspired earrings featuring a hen with a flower crown. Made of hardboard that is laser cut and printed, they’re lightweight and nickel-free.  

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Health & Nutrition Poultry

Chicken Toe Injury? You May Need To Amputate. Here’s How

Chickens can be a lot like children. They squabble, like to explore the outdoors, adore treats, and have their moments of cuteness. And the moment our backs are turned, they get themselves into a heap of trouble.  

“Help! Are you there?” was the instant message I awoke to a couple of weeks ago. It was from my friend Kara, mom to both chickens and children, and I could sense a tone of desperation. I immediately replied in the affirmative.  

It turned out that, due to the onslaught of end-of-school-year events—prom, field day, yearbook day, class trip—Kara had barely had time to bathe, let alone focus on her flock. She was therefore utterly horrified to discover that her favorite hen, Harriet, was  limping gingerly around her run, her outermost toe barely attached to her foot. Kara had searched for jagged fencing, rough rocks, anything that could have damaged Harriet’s toe … and had come up empty.  

“Will I have to euthanize her?” she asked.  

Fortunately for both Harriet and Kara, euthanasia was not only unnecessary but not even an option. I had been in this exact situation years ago with my Marans hen, Nestle. Like Kara, I had no idea what had caused Nestle’s toe to get crunched. With my background in emergency medical services, however, I was able to treat my girl.

I was therefore able to coach Kara through what she needed to do to help Harriet: chicken toe amputation.  

Gather Your Supplies 

Decide where you will be treating your chicken. A clean, well-lit surface in your basement, laundry room, or workroom works best.

Drape the surface with a clean, soft towel and have a receptacle for medical waste standing by. Rubbing alcohol, cotton balls, sterile gauze, medical-grade adhesive tape, a veterinary antiseptic/sealant such as Blu-Kote, and an antibacterial ointment are necessary supplies. So is a sharp, sterilized pair of snips.

Veterinary wrap is optional, but should be considered if your chicken run is dusty or muddy.

Have styptic powder or corn starch standing by in case of bleeding. You will also need an extra set of hands, preferably ones accustomed to handling chickens, and a clean tote or large carton with fresh shavings, feed and water.  

chicken toes injury amputate
Ana Hotaling

Treating Your Bird 

It’s best to operate on your bird early in the morning, before she has a chance to fill her crop. This way, there is less chance of regurgitation while she is on her back.

Gently place her, belly up, on your prepared surface. Have your assistant stand on the opposite side of the table. From here, they can hold your chicken in place, one hand on either side of her rib cage and, if possible, they can stroke your bird’s belly to calm her down.

Disinfect the skin around the chicken toe using the alcohol and cotton balls, then wipe down the blades of the snips as well. Proceed by firmly cutting the toe off at the point of least connectivity to the rest of the foot. Depending on the state of the chicken toe, there may be little to no bleeding. If bleeding persists, dip the site in styptic powder or corn starch.  

Once any bleeding has been contained, seal the wound with the veterinary antiseptic/sealant. Apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment to a small section of gauze, then apply the treated gauze to the surgical site, wrapping the rest of the gauze securely around the bird’s foot and securing it in place with medical adhesive tape. Cover this with the veterinary wrap if desired.

The wraps should be snug but not tight. You don’t want to restrict circulation.   

chicken toes injury amputate
Ana Hotaling

Post Surgery 

Place your patient inside the recovery tote to eat and drink immediately after surgery. This everyday activity will comfort her and put her at ease. She may settle down and snooze after she eats. She may choose not to eat immediately. Keep an eye on her throughout the day.

Once she has eaten, drank and pooped, re-evaluate her. Take her out of the tote and see how she handles moving. She will still favor her uninjured foot but should be able to walk. If she seems energetic, put her back with her flock. It’s also okay to keep her separated from the others overnight.  

It will take a few weeks for your bird to completely heal. Change the dressings frequently and give your chicken plenty of TLC. Without a toe, your chicken may not be able to perch any longer, so be prepared to make a nestbox or section of the coop floor cozy for her.

She should, however, be able to roam, scratch and otherwise do everything the rest of her flock does.  

 Kara reported back recently that operating on Harriet was one of the most nerve-wracking things she had ever done. Harriet recovered swiftly and, while she sleeps in one of her coop’s nestboxes now, her antics are exactly as they were prior to her injury … which is a far cry better than the considered alternative.  

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

Shutterclucks: Chickens Editors Choose Reader Photos

The editors of Chickens magazine are always on the lookout for great chicken photos, and in the May/June 2023 print issue they ran a contest titled Shutterclucks.

Above is the winning photo submitted by Maris Schiess of Indianapolis, Indiana, and below you’ll find others chosen and printed in Chickens. Each one includes the name and city of residence of the chicken lover (or lovers) who submitted it.


Trina Rookus | Wilmington, North Carolina

shutterclucks


Samantha Cooper | Newbury, New Hampshire

shutterclucks


Dana M. Arvidson | Whitleyville, Tennessee


Missy Zombor | Milwaukee, Wisconsin


Karen Brunsting | Burlington, Michigan


Lyndsey Rhodes | Altamont, New York

shutterclucks


Mayra Garcia | Ennis, Texas


Stacey Myrick | Pensacola, Florida

Got a cool clucker you want to show off? Email us an image of your chicken(s) to chickens@chickensmagazine.com with the subject line Shutterclucks, and include your name and mailing address. The winner will receive a prize from one of our sponsors!

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Chickens magazine.

Categories
Equipment Farm & Garden

A Three-Way Hitch Adapter Saves Time & Effort

Sometimes, the key to solving a problem is learning that a solution exists. If you’re not aware there’s a solution, it’s easy to waste time and effort with workarounds that don’t address the root problem.

Let me give you an example. Throughout the spring, summer, and fall, you can find me driving around my farm on a garden tractor, towing carts and wagons of various sizes. The largest one (which I affectionately call my “red wagon” even though it’s technically a cart) mounts to my tractor with a 1 7/8-inch hitch ball. The others attach with clevis fasteners.


Read more: Check out our simple guide to yard carts.


The Problem

The hitch ball installs at the back of my tractor in the hole used by clevis fasteners for the clevis pin. This means that when the hitch ball is installed, I can’t attach carts with clevis fasteners. And when the hitch ball is removed, I can’t use my red wagon.

The Workaround

I spend a surprising amount of time removing and installing the hitch ball from my garden tractor to accommodate different carts. It’s not a big deal, but it does require that I fetch a wrench and wrestle off the nut holding the hitch ball in place. I’ve lost nuts off hitch balls in the past, so I try to install them tightly.

Removing or installing a hitch ball can take several minutes, and when performed repeatedly over the summer, it adds up to a fair amount of lost time and productivity.


Read more: Tiny time savings really do add up around the farm.


The Solution

A three-way hitch adapter that allows me to install a hitch ball while still leaving an open hole for clevis fasteners solves this problem. I wasn’t specifically searching for this solution, but a relative of mine came across one of these hitch adapters and brought it to me, wondering if I would find it useful.

When I realized what it was, a lightbulb went on in my head. I couldn’t believe I had never thought to shop for one before.

The three-way hitch adapter is basically a metal plate that installs between the ball of the hitch ball and the frame of the tractor. The plate extends a short distance away from the back of the tractor so that the hole for the clevis pin rides behind the hitch ball, safe from interference. For good measure, the hitch adapter features two other openings perfect for connecting chains and tow ropes.

After conducting a bit of research, it seems that many variations of this concept exist. They aren’t all metal plates for small machines like my garden tractor. There are larger two-way and three-way hitch adapters designed for use with the receiver hitch on an ATV, UTV or truck.

I’ve already installed the three-way hitch adapter on my garden tractor and am delighted at the time and effort it will save. No longer will I have to stop in the middle of a project because I forgot my hitch ball, or because I need to return to the garage and find a wrench for removing the hitch ball.

Now all my hitch needs are simultaneously accommodated thanks to a simple solution I wish I’d discovered sooner.

Categories
Beginning Farmers Crops & Gardening Farm & Garden

Mint Can Definitely Have A Place In The Garden

I’m going to share a secret with you … I grow mint in the ground. Gasp! I recently found out this is a very divisive statement. But I’ll invite you to look at the big picture before jumping to conclusions.

First off, I’ll invite you to consider this topic within a “my-garden-my-choice” frame of mind.

My Testa-Mint

I love experimenting in my garden, so I planted a clump of mint dug up from my parents’ place into our “chicken yard” maybe eight years ago. The chickens kept it in check as they munched and scratched around it. And I used that patch of mint mostly for their bedding.

A few years ago though, we expanded the vegetable garden into that space. I half-heartedly dug up the roots, knowing full well I’d never get them all. We decided to plant a hügelkultur bed full of strawberries right over a part of it.

The mint lives on right with the strawberries and I’m far from worried about eliminating it. Plus, my chances are about as good as eliminating creeping Charlie. So far, the strawberries are holding their own, as long as I manage it.


Read more: Forage wild strawberries for a springtime treat.


Embracing Mint

I’m choosing to embrace the mint instead of fight it. For me this looks like:

  • I get to harvest a ton of mint all summer  for infused mint water. Plus, I can dry tons of mint for winter herbal teas.
  • I spend a few extra minutes every week pulling up plants from my pathways.
  • I spend an hour or so two to three times a year pulling mint roots from my garden beds.
  • I pay attention to the strawberry plants that my mint coexists with.
  • I use extra mint in my chicken coop bedding.

Read more: Mint is seriously cool!


I know this way of gardening isn’t for everyone, or for every garden space either. But in some spaces and some gardeners, it’s a match made in heaven. 

I’m embracing the chance to pay attention and try to help the plants find a balance so they can coexist peacefully.

Mint does a wonderful job at coexisting with raspberries and blackberries, as it grows in dry shade where other plants really struggle. And a few of my friends actually grow it in the ground as a ground cover of sorts. They prefer it to clover and grass.

Now, one place I would not plant mint is near (like anywhere near) your compost pile. You don’t want those roots getting mixed in and spreading them all over your garden!

I’d just hate for you not to experience the joy of mint—or bee balm, lily of the valley or other aggressive spreaders—just because you’re afraid. 

Sure, plant mint in a pot, and sink it to help overwinter. But grow new plants and learn from them.

I’m in a relationship with my garden. There’s give and take to this gardening world, and that’s the beauty.

So, dare I ask … do you grow mint in the ground?

By Michelle Bruhn
Forks in the Dirt

Categories
Animals Farm & Garden Large Animals

Keep An Eye Out For Lameness In Your Sheep

As a sheep owner, it’s not uncommon to encounter the occasional limping member of your flock. Lameness in sheep can be caused by various diseases or issues with their hooves. Understanding and addressing these problems promptly is really essential for maintaining the overall health and well-being of your entire flock. 

Identify the Issue 

When you notice a sheep limping, it’s crucial to separate it from the rest of the flock and conduct a thorough examination. Begin by assessing the state of the hoof. Is it overgrown? In some cases, simply trimming the hoof can solve the problem.

Additionally, consider the moisture level. Extended periods of wetness, especially after rainfall, can contribute to hoof problems. 

Foot Rot & Foot Scald 

Foot rot and foot scald are two common hoof conditions that affect sheep. Warmth, mud and poor sanitation create an environment that can cause these diseases.

Foot rot is characterized by inflamed, red skin between the toes; a foul odor; and detachment of the hoof wall from the horn. Foot scald, on the other hand, is a more benign condition with redness between the toes without more severe symptoms. 

For both foot rot and foot scald, you can try similar treatment. A 10 percent zinc sulfate solution can be used as a footbath, in which the sheep are stood for up to 15 minutes every five to seven days. Copper sulfate is another alternative for footbaths. Additionally, I’ve used products like Hoof ‘N Heel and found it effective in treating hoof rot and scald.  


Read more: Have questions about trimming your sheep’s hooves? We have answers here!


Importance of Trimming 

Regular hoof trimming is a simple—yet vital—practice in maintaining healthy hooves for your sheep. By inspecting and trimming hooves on a routine basis, you can prevent potential issues from coming up.

For instance, I’ve had a ewe come up limping and a simple stick lodged between the toes of her overgrown hoof was the cause. A sharp hoof trimmer, readily available at farm supply stores, is the primary tool you need for this task.

By taking the time to trim and clean hooves, you can alleviate discomfort and restore mobility to your sheep. 

Prevention Is Key 

In addition to proper hoof care, ensuring good nutrition and maintaining clean and dry living conditions for your sheep really contributes to hoof health. Providing a well-balanced diet that meets their nutritional requirements helps strengthen their immune system and promotes overall well-being.

Don’t forget to regularly inspect your pasture, barn or paddock for dampness. Cleaning any soiled areas can help prevent the development and spread of hoof-related diseases. 


Read more: When (and how) should you give your sheep a hoof trim?


When All Else Fails, Call the Vet 

Proactive measures and basic treatments can address many hoof issues … but it’s important not to ignore persistent or severe cases of lameness. If you can’t identify the cause or if the problem persists despite your efforts, don’t hesitate to contact a veterinarian.

Vets have the expertise and experience to diagnose and treat more complex hoof conditions and can help identify any underlying health issues within your flock. 

Lameness in sheep is a common problem that requires prompt attention. By understanding the common hoof conditions, doing regular hoof trimming, and maintaining suitable living conditions, you can keep your flock healthy and mobile. Remember, the well-being of your sheep depends on your vigilance. By prioritizing hoof health, you’re ensuring the overall vitality and productivity of your entire flock. 

Categories
Farm & Garden Food Recipes

Check Out This Delicious Vegan Avocado Crema Recipe!

Over the last decade, we have learned about many food allergies and intolerances that our family (and extended family) members have. It can become a bit of a challenge to accommodate everyone for dinner when one person can’t eat gluten, another can’t have pork or beef, another can’t have eggs or dairy, one has a nut allergy, and the other a seafood allergy, and so on.

(This is actually my family. And this isn’t the complete list.)  

When I learned of Easy Allergy Free Cooking by Kayla Cappiello I was ecstatic. Through her own personal journey, while navigating her own health issues with celiac disease and lactose intolerance, as well as having a nut allergy, she’s learned what works and doesn’t work for her. She’s now written a cookbook full of recipes that were created with consideration of many of the most common dietary restrictions, while still providing delicious comfort foods for you and your family to enjoy.  

Avocado Crema

In Kayla’s book. she has a chapter called, “Life-Changing Dressings and Condiments.” I’m such a sauce gal—I’m all about the incorporation of various aiolis, dipping sauces and other condiments that generally enhance my food.

So naturally, I decided to try the recipe for Vegan Avocado Crema. Yum!

Now, if you are lucky enough to not have any food allergies in your family—great. This is still a recipe worth making. We enjoyed the crema with fish tacos, but you could dollop spoonfuls of this crema over enchiladas, burrito bowls, tacos, nachos or, really, whatever you’d like. 


Read more: Dress yourself with these tasty homemade dressing recipes!


Yield: 1/2 cup 

Gluten-free, nut-free 

Ingredients

  • 1/2 avocado 
  • 1 tsp garlic powder 
  • 1/2 tsp salt 
  • 1/2 tsp pepper 
  • 1/4 cup yogurt (see below for vegan option)

Instructions 

In a bowl, add the avocado, garlic, salt, pepper and yogurt. Mix together until fully blended and smooth. It’s OK to use a food processor, if needed.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days. 

Options

  • Dairy-free option: Use dairy-free yogurt 
  • Low-fat option: Use fat-free or light sour cream 
  • Vegan option: Use vegan green yogurt  

Notes 

I added the juice of half of a lime and added in a bit of cilantro when I made this recipe. Feel free to tweak it to your liking.  

This recipe was shared from Easy Allergy Free Cooking by Kayla Cappiello with permission of Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.  

Categories
Animals Chicken Coops & Housing Farm & Garden Flock Talk Poultry

Snakes Alive! Get To Know Common Farm Serpents

My son Jaeson and I were out a couple of mornings ago, doing the daily farm chores. While I checked and reset our live traps, Jaeson went to fill the chicken and duck waterers. Suddenly, I heard a startled “Oh!” Looking up, I saw Jaeson, waterer in hand, standing statue still and staring at the ground. 

“What is it?” I called out.

“There’s a snake here,” he told me.

“Is it a garter snake?” I asked, assuming it was one of the little yard snakes common to our farm. 

Jaeson didn’t take his gaze off the ground. “Noooooo … it’s a big fat snake and it’s reared its head up at me and is really mad.”

I immediately stopped what I was doing and dashed across the grass to the run fence and peeked in. Sure enough, a dark snake with a white underbelly was reared up, cobra style, about half a foot off the ground, continually flicking its tongue at Jaeson, who stood perhaps three feet away.

“I didn’t even see it was a snake,” Jaeson told me. “I thought someone had left the garden hose in here.” 

I walked down the fence line to come even with the snake and gasped. It was at least another two feet longer, thicker than a garden hose, and its tail was upright and vibrating swiftly back and forth in a blur. Rattler, I thought. The coloration didn’t match our state’s sole rattlesnake, the shy Massasauga, but that tail convinced me Jaeson was in peril.

I had him slowly back away. The snake remained in its defensive posture. 

Once he was clear, we discussed our immediate options. With the snake just two feet from the coop’s pop door, we decided against releasing the birds, since we’d have to approach the angry serpent.

We decided to save this coop for the last/ I stood guard and watched the snake while Jaeson dealt with the other henhouses. Just as he returned, the snake took off at incredible speed, heading for the front of the run.

We dashed out of the way and lost total track of where he went, which resulted in us standing still and craning our necks every which way for a few minutes until Jaeson spotted him … under the duck shelter where the feed bowl was. 

Of course.

Jaeson let the ducks out, and fortunately they headed straight for their pool. This gave us the opportunity to fill their waterer and put it back in place. Our slithery friend, however, was not moving from the shade of the shelter.

Using a spare fence post, I retrieved the food bowl, which Jaeson filled. “Now what?” he asked. The ducks weren’t particularly smart. They wouldn’t know to look for their food in another part of the run. In addition, we were expecting rain and didn’t want the food to get ruined by the expected precipitation.

I finally made the decision to put the bowl back under the feeder and hope for the best. I started to carefully push the bowl in with the fence post, when suddenly the snake dropped down. I knew that position full well: I’d covered the Caro, Georgia Rattlesnake Roundup for the New York Post years ago and recognized that the snake was about to strike.

And he did, with lightning speed. I backed off and the bowl sustained no damage.

I waited a few minutes, then retrieved the bowl swiftly. I plunked it on a flat space at the opposite end of the run, pointed at it so the ducks might possibly figure the new location out, and returned to the shelter.

But the snake was once again on the move, and in a blink of an eye he was almost at the stairs leading up to the kitchen sliding glass door. He took a quick turn, went past our chicken tractor, and then settled himself down in the shade beneath my husband’s garden tractor. 

Well, crisis temporarily averted.

Snake Identification

Once back inside, I sent the photos of the snake to Dr. Michael Hoffman, an Army veterinarian who specialized in zoology, especially reptiles. I also sent the images to my father-in-law, who had been the chief naturalist at one of our state’s metroparks. Dr. Hoffman replied first.

“Blue racer!” he texted. “They’re endangered. Good to see one return. Non venomous and safe to us.” My father-in-law confirmed Dr. Hoffman’s identification, noting that the blue racer has become increasingly endangered in recent years and have all but disappeared from our area of Michigan.

Common Non-Venomous Field Snakes

Garter Snake

The most common snake throughout the U.S. is the garter snake. More than 20 subspecies of garter snake, genus Thamnophis, exist in the United States and Canada. Garter snakes are very abundant in residential areas because humans create gardens, swimming pools, ponds and other structures where garter snakes thrive.

In fact, garters are often called garden snakes because they can be found slithering through gardens and basking in the sun in flat spots. Garters are very slender, are typically green with yellow side stripes, and can range from 18 inches to 3 feet in length.

Brown Snake

Found throughout the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, the brown snake (Storeria dekayi) favors open prairies, grasslands, agricultural areas and urban/suburban residential zones. Ranging in color from beige to brown, with a creamy white to pink underbelly, the tiny brown snake ranges in size from 9 inches to just under 2 feet, with 15 inches being the common adult size.

Brown snakes are shy and tend to avoid human interaction, spending their days inside rodent burrows, inside anthills or under log piles.

Corn Snake

The corn snake (Pantherophis guttatus) is an Eastern United States snake seen commonly in fields, meadows, forest clearings and outbuildings such as garden sheds, barns, greenhouses, and yes, even coops. Sometimes called a red rat snake, the corn snake is so named because of the Indian corn-type pattern of its scales and possibly because it tends to hang around corn silos, waiting for rodents.

Corn snakes are a very popular pet snake, second only to the ball python. It is a very gentle snake that is content to be held by its owner. And, just like chicken breeders, many snake fanciers breed corn snakes to produce a specific color or pattern variation, such as candy cane, sunglow, caramel and lavender.

Like the garter snake, the corn snake is slender. It can range in length from 2 feet to 6 feet in length.

Black Racer

The black racer (Coluber contrictor) can be found in the grasslands, meadows, farms, fields and roadsides of the contiguous 48 states as well as in Canada and Mexico. Many states consider the black racer a species of “importance,” as its numbers are steadily declining due to the loss of its habitat.

This non-venomous black snake ranges in length from 4 feet to 6.5 feet. Despite its namesake speed—it can reach 8 to 10 miles per hour—black racer snakes often falls victim to mowing and other farm operations, as well as vehicular traffic. Its cousin is the aforementioned, endangered blue racer (Coluber constrictor foxii).


Read more: Check out these tips for identifying a shed snakeskin.


Common Venomous Field Snakes

The U.S. is home to four types of venomous snakes: rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths and coral snakes. While copperheads, cottonmouths and coral snakes prefer swampy, marshy, watery habitats and deep forests in the Eastern (copperheads), Southeastern (cottonmouths) and Southern (corals) U.S., rattlesnakes make their home in almost every kind of American habitat, including mountains, deserts, beaches, grasslands and meadows. 

Rattlesnakes

Rattlesnakes are extremely specialized predators. They have specialized organs located on the roof of their mouth that enhance their sense of smell. Their flickering tongues actually deposit scent particles on these organs, allowing them to use scent to detect prey. As pit vipers, rattlesnakes have heat-sensing pits near their eyes, which help them see their prey’s heat signature.

These specializations allow rattlers to hunt effectively in total darkness. Rattlesnakes strike their prey swiftly from a coiled position. When startled—usually by larger predatory mammals like coyotes, bobcats and wolves—rattlesnakes rear up defensively and vibrate the rattle located at the tip of their tail as a warning to back off.

According to the Centers for Disease Control, approximately 8,000 people are bitten by venomous snakes each year in the U.S., of which 75 percent are rattlesnake bites.

Contrary to popular belief, rattlesnakes do not consider humans prey and do not actively seek people out. The majority of rattlesnake-bite victims either accidentally stumbled across a rattler or for some reason decided to try to handle one. 

The rattlesnake’s chief prey, like its non-venomous kin, are rodents. Because of this, the National Wildlife Foundation notes that the rattlesnake plays an important role in its ecosystem.

However, since mice, rats, voles and other opportunistic rodents tend to gravitate towards chicken coops, so will rattlesnakes, which unfortunately increases the risk of your accidentally coming across one. Rattlesnakes will also eat chicken eggs by swallowing the eggs whole, then regurgitating the inedible egg shells. Chicks are fair game for rattlers, as are smaller bantams such as Old English Games, Mille Fleurs and Dutch Booted Bantams.

Should you come across a dead chicken with a wet head, you can assume it was killed by a rattlesnake that gave up devouring your bird when it wouldn’t fit down the snake’s throat. 

Snakes as Farm Benefactors

Should your farm be inhabited by non-venomous snakes such as garters, browns, corn snakes and racers, your best course of action is to welcome them as a partner in pest prevention. The corn snakes, racers and garters will decimate the local mouse, vole and small rat populations around your farm. The brown snakes (and the garters) will feast on pesky summer beetles, slugs, grubs, worms and other insects that wreck your farm produce, too.

Many herpetologists (reptile scientists) and state natural resource departments consider these snakes beneficial, since their chief diets consist of destructive rodents and insects, and urge homeowners not to kill them. Dr. Hoffman informed us that our blue racer would eat the field mice as well as the frogs and insects that tend to damage gardens.

“That blue racer is a keeper,” he texted. “You want to have him around.”

Erring on the Side of Safety

Still, it never hurts to take precautionary measures, especially if you have rattlesnakes in your region. Rear your large-fowl baby chicks in an elevated, covered brooder inside your basement or garage until they are fully feathered and about 12 to 14 weeks of age—in other words, too large to be considered prey by these snakes.

Keeping snakes out of your runs may prove difficult, as they can squeeze through 1/2-inch mesh fencing. The browns can fit through even smaller openings. A rule of thumb to remember is that if a mouse can get in, so can a snake.

In addition, corn snakes and rattlesnakes are adept at climbing and may enter your coop through the pop-door opening or a gap in the nest-box lid in search of eggs should there be a dearth of mice and insects. A frequent egg-collection routine can help curtail any potential egg loss.

Another way to deter snakes from the runs around your farm is to keep the areas around your coops well mowed, depriving these field-loving serpents of their favorite grassy habitats. Consider planting pungent herbs such as rosemary, thyme, garlic and chives around your run, as their strong fragrances can repel the scent-hunting rattlesnake.

If your chickens free range on your farm, be aware that it’s the snakes that will most likely be at risk, as foraging breeds such as Orpingtons, Wyandottes and Australorps will gleefully go after—and messily devour—garters and browns. I have witnessed this many times over the years. Poor snakes. 

This morning, Jaeson cheerfully reported that he saw the blue racer near our pole barn, otherwise known as field mouse and chipmunk central. I am more than happy to host this endangered snake there and let him eat all the rodents he desires. I haven’t seen a corn snake in years, and I’ve never encountered a black racer. But we do have massasaugas, and I’m more than willing to let this shy rattlesnake join his speedy blue cousin in their quest for pests.