Categories
Beginning Farmers

Beginning Farmer’s Guide to Self-Sufficiency

It’s a dream that many hold dear to their hearts but few will ever get to experience: a farm of one’s own. Not just any sort of farm, either, but a self-sufficient one running on nothing but the American Dream and a whole lot of elbow grease; the last bastion of a an era gone by in a world overrun with consumerism and identical globs of prepackaged food-like product lining the shelves of our local supermarkets.

How does a beginning farmer become an island of sustainability and self-reliance in a cultural sea dependent on cheap fuel and chemical inputs? The list of possibilities might seem daunting—solar panels, home-grown animal feed, a farm truck that runs on biodiesel … where does it end? Or, more importantly, where does it begin?

Here are five things that won’t cost a penny and are essential to creating a new life on a sustainable farm.

1. A Plan

Ask any farmer, and they will tell you: Farming is hard work. Add to that the desire to be self-sufficient, and you’ve gone to a whole new level. If you’re starting a farm, hopefully you’ve already developed a plan and a timeline for implementing that plan.

To reach your goals of sustainability, you’ll need to add the steps you will take toward becoming self-reliant to your plan. Perhaps in year one, you will restore the old well on your property so you no longer need city water. By year five, maybe you hope to be growing all the feed for your animals. Year 10, solar panels?

Jonas Hurley, owner of River Run Farm in central Kentucky, has been slowly working toward sustainability on his farm since he started it several years ago. “Less debt is always a good thing,” Hurley says, “which means building infrastructure over years and, at least for some time, someone needs a source of off-farm income.”

2. Patience

You’ve worked hard and saved your pennies to buy the perfect acreage to call your own. You can envision every last detail, from the rainwater-collection systems to the pumpkin patch that will provide needed agritourism income. You’ve mapped out your master plan, which includes a slew of beehives, rotational grazing for the cattle and retrofitting the bathrooms with composting toilets. It may seem obvious, but the No. 1 ingredient to checking these tasks off your list isn’t deep pockets or an engineering degree; it’s that most elusive of character traits: patience.

Going down the path to self-sufficiency is a long and slow one. After a lifetime of living and working your agricultural dream, your farm might still be just one more project away from being what you first set out to achieve. To manage your dream without losing your cool, Hurley recommends starting with diversity and working your way from there.

“I would encourage diversity in plants and livestock initially so at least most of your diet can be generated from the farm at first,” he says. “Then later you can find what component of the farm you are particularly interested in and good at to use as a source of revenue.”

Learning to keep your head down and stick to the plan will go a long way toward keeping you on track to your goal of sustainability.

3. Compromise

Especially in the early years, it might feel like you’re a failure at self-sufficiency or perhaps farming in general. If you’ve set the goal to grow all your own food for the year but find yourself getting pretty hungry around January, it can be an intense disappointment to have to head to your local grocery to buy provisions. It’s important to remember that both farming and sustainability are evolutionary processes, not instant metamorphoses. You’ll have to compromise daily with yourself and, if you have one, with your farming partner. Choose what sustainable values are most important to you—maybe living debt-free or growing pesticide-free in the garden—and stick to them, but leave room to compromise on things that are negotiable.

4. Community

It seems ironic that one of the most important ingredients to self-reliance is other people. It’s easy to look at farms as they operated 100 years ago and long for that same level of diversity and sustainability. Unfortunately, we live in a world that is drastically different.

As small farms have disappeared from our landscape, so has the like-minded community that enables small farms to thrive. Living near others with the same goals and ideas can be the difference between success and failure of your beginning farming venture. You can’t quantify the value of a helping hand on a building project or a friendly neighbor willing to barter for your morale.

If you can’t find anyone geographically close, consider looking online for websites or forums devoted to beginning farmers. A word of encouragement or an ingenious solution to a farm problem will be a huge help, even from a virtual friend.

You might even find help at the fiscal level. “Federal grants are available for fencing, if your farm has running water on it, as well as for high tunnels for extension of the growing season,” Hurley says.

5. A Crazy Streak

Farming sustainably makes perfect sense on one hand. On the other hand, there are times when the entire concept can seem almost foolish. Like when you’re getting up at 5 a.m. to hand-milk a cow in the dead of winter when you could buy milk prepackaged just a few miles down the road; straightening out old bent nails because you don’t want to spend any cash on doing barn repairs; convincing your customers to buy for something they could get for half your price for at the grocery store. At the very least, this lifestyle you’re choosing is definitively countercultural. If you are going to make it, you are going to need just enough of a wild side to make it all come together.

Self-sufficiency and farming go hand-in-hand. Start on the path today and keep working until you’ve reached a level of sustainability that is comfortable for you and your family. Your pocketbook and the environment will thank you.

 

Categories
Homesteading

Why PDF Patterns are Wonderful

Why PDF Patterns Are Wonderful (HobbyFarms.com)

It’s a new year and time to talk sewing again. I wanted to start off the new year by expounding on the virtues of PDF sewing patterns or e-patterns. Huh! What? Let me explain.

What is a PDF Pattern?
A PDF pattern or e-pattern is a sewing pattern that you purchase online. Once the transaction has finalized, a box may open with a link to the pattern. Sometimes, the pattern is sent to your email in a zip file. Other times, you are immediately redirected to an instant download page.

However you have received your pattern, the next thing you do is download it to your computer and then you have it forever—as long as you back things up.

Why PDF Patterns Are Wonderful (HobbyFarms.com)

The fun begins once you have downloaded and opened the pattern. Like all other sewing patterns, you will receive a supply list, yardage amounts, sizing information and the actual pattern. The difference is that you have to print the pattern before you can cut it out. Yes, you will be using your printer and your ink, but that is the beauty here. If you have ever incorrectly cut out a paper pattern, then you know how frustrating that can be. With PDF patterns, all you have to do is print out another one.

Why PDF Patterns Are Wonderful - Photo by Leslie Rutland (HobbyFarms.com)
Photo by Leslie Rutland/The Seasoned Homemaker

I’m going to demonstrate here with one of my apron patterns. When you open the PDF file, you should find a pattern map that will direct you on how you should assemble the printed pattern tiles. Print out the pattern tiles according to the directions and then tape them together according to the pattern map.

Why PDF Patterns Are Wonderful - Photo by Leslie Rutland (HobbyFarms.com)
Photo by Leslie Rutland/The Seasoned Homemaker

It’s really that easy. At this point, I like to trace my pattern onto pattern paper, as it’s easier to manipulate for size adjustments. However, if the pattern doesn’t need resizing (like an apron), then you can lay it out and start cutting.

PDF Patterns are Ecomonical
PDF patterns are by far more economical than almost any other sewing pattern out there, especially where children’s clothes are concerned. Think about it, you buy one PDF pattern in multiple sizes—something like children’s pajamas. Every year, when you need a larger size, you open the pattern, print out the next size, and sew it up.

Sewing things like T-shirts, simple skirts, pajamas and other classics makes this is a sewing mom’s dream. The convenience of already having the pattern and the savings from not having to buy another size make PDF patterns an overall winner.

Instant Gratification
Are you an instant-gratification-type person? Well, PDF patterns will hit the mark here. Find a pattern you love, purchase it, print it and sew it. If it’s a simple design, like a T-shirt, you could be done before lunch. This is ideal when you need a quick gift or live a great distance from a store that carries paper patterns. The beauty is in the instant. Time saved, money saved.

Buy PDF Patterns
PDF patterns are everywhere on the Internet, but I have a short list of go-to places where I like to get mine. When searching for a particular type of pattern, use the search box to find what you need (example: children’s T-shirts).

Some of these sellers also have free PDF patterns. Spend some time searching—you’ll be amazed at what you can find.

  • Etsy
  • Craftsy
  • YouCanMakeThis
  • Burda
  • Go To Patterns

Here’s a Freebie
I offer a free PDF apron pattern for anyone who subscribes to my blog, The Seasoned Homemaker, so try a PDF pattern on me. All you need to do is type in your email address in the top right-hand corner box saying “Subscribe to Updates.” You will be sent an email, click on the link, and the box will open with your download.

And, a couple hours later, you could have a new apron.

Leslie Rutland at The Craft Hub
About Leslie Rutland
Leslie is a serial sewist, master gardener, wannabe farmer, gluten-free food blogger, mom and grandmother who is in love with all things delightfully domestic. She joins the Craft Hub family every month with an easy sewing project that anyone can make. To see her most recent projects, keep in touch at The Seasoned Homemaker.

 

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Categories
Crops & Gardening

How to Maximize Your Elderberry Harvest

Pay special attention to elderberry harvest times to get a maximum crop yield. Photo courtesy Michael Weirauch/iStock/Thinkstock (HobbyFarms.com)
Courtesy Michael Weirauch/iStock/Thinkstock

Elderberries (Sambucus canadensis), which can grow wild or be cultivated, are a beneficial fruit, high in vitamin C, but without careful attention to harvest, the tiny berries will end up on the ground instead of in your mouth. If you feel uncomfortable about raking up your elderberry harvest, there are some things you can do to prepare your plants before the fruit starts to drop.

Elderberry harvest occurs in late summer through early autumn, and the best way to prepare for the harvest is to keep an eye on the fruits as they ripen. The berries will have a whitish sheen on the surface, and as they ripen, the sheen will get whiter—experience will teach you when the time to harvest is right. Remove the entire cluster (I use clippers) when it’s ripe, and strip the berries from the stem into containers. Because ripe berries are fragile, cool them in the refrigerator immediately.

Give immature elderberry plants plenty of space. They’re fast-growing and exuberant producers when happily sited in the garden. Growing naturally in wet areas, they reach up to 12 feet tall and 6 feet wide, with large, feather-like leaves up to 1 foot long that give way to large flattened clusters of tiny, white, star-shaped flowers. A multi-stemmed suckering shrub, the stems and branches are pithy and soft rather than woody, forming dense thickets. With a leggy habit and rather coarse texture, elderberry shrubs tend to be wild and unkempt-looking unless pruned periodically. After flowering, you’ll see the dark-purple to black berries forming on purple stems.

Because elderberries produce fruit on both new and old wood, there’s some opportunity to increase the number of berries you can harvest through proper pruning. The plants send up new canes each year that usually reach full height in one season. The following year, those canes will develop lateral or side branches, and more new canes will grow. Flowers and fruit will develop on the tips of the new growth but especially on the laterals that developed the previous season, making second-year canes with plenty of laterals the most fruitful. In the third year, they begin to weaken, and in the years that follow, they’re not very fruitful.

To maximize your berry harvest, remove all dead, broken or weak canes, as well as all canes more than 3 years old, in late winter while the plants are dormant. Leave an equal number of 1-, 2- and 3-year-old canes. Some varieties available for fruit production from seed retailers across the country are York, Johns and Kent.

About the Author: P. Allen Smith is a professional garden designer, host of two national TV programs, a regular guest on the Today Show, and author of P. Allen Smith’s Living in the Garden Home (Clarkson Potter, 2007) and other books in the Garden Home series.

This article first appeared in the March/April 2014 issue of Hobby Farm Home.

 

Categories
Crops & Gardening

Plant Your Weeds & Love Them, Too

It’s no secret—I love weeds. I’m a weed advocate. As soon as the first chickweed leaves are ready in the spring, I’m out searching for as many as I can greedily stuff into my mouth.

My community consists heavily of farmers who get on their tractor and drive for hours to plant well-known crops, like corn, soybeans and wheat. They regularly slow their farm equipment as they drive by to get a glimpse of all the “crazy” going on here at our farm. Not a one of them would understand at all that I actually plant weeds. That’s right, we don’t just allow weeds to live in the margins of our garden. Nope, we go to specialty greenhouses and seed suppliers to buy things like dandelions (Taraxacum officinale), burdock (Arctium lappa) and plantain (Plantago major).

Foraging for Weeds
Think of it this way, the exotic plants we choose to grow in pots are often weeds in another part of the world. Gotu kola (Centenella asiatica) is a rambling groundcover in parts of Asia. I grow it in a pot for teas and the occasional salad to improve my memory and contribute to brain health.

The first time I walked into Companion Plants, an internationally recognized nursery in Athens, Ohio, that carries more than 600 varieties of common and exoctic herbs, I saw a small pot of burdock and was shocked. The owner ships all over the country, and it turns out that some of the weeds I take for granted don’t grow well elsewhere. Of course, you would have to plant it yourself if dandelion didn’t grow where you lived and you wanted a constant, fresh supply.

Where I live, there are many “weeds” that are available right here on my farm and in surrounding wild areas. I forage for a number of things. I usually find enough nettles (Urtica dioica) for my needs in wild areas around my community, but I typically need to plant extra plantain because I use so much of it that I can’t seem to find enough growing wild.

weeds dandelion dandelions
Dawn Combs

Where Do You Find “Weed” Seeds?

’Tis the season for the garden catalog. Several of my favorites stock quite a few weed seeds. Johnny’s Selected Seeds, High Mowing Organic Seeds, Horizon Herbs and Companion Plants seem to have some of the best selection. In some cases, you will find them mixed in with the vegetables. For example, you will find amaranth (amaranthus spp.) mixed in with the “microgreens” section in most catalogs. In others you will find most of the weeds in the “herb” section. As with all plants, be sure of your Latin name. Don’t go by common name or you may find that your “dandelion” seed isn’t true dandelion but another vegetable.

Above all, don’t be ashamed to buy seeds and plants in varieties that you think would make your friends and neighbors frown. And if you happen to be traveling down a back road in the middle of Ohio and find me bent over a row weeding the dandelions, don’t worry that I’ve escaped from some mental facility nearby. I’m just cultivating my weed beds.

Categories
Recipes

Bake Your Own Bread Bowls

Homemade Bread Bowls - Photo by John D. Ivanko/farmsteadchef.com (HobbyFarms.com)
Photo by John D. Ivanko/farmsteadchef.com

When we moved to our Wisconsin farmstead, Inn Serendipity, nearly 20 years ago, we quickly embraced home cooking, partly because we didn’t have another option. Gone were the convenient Thai take-out spots or delis of our urban days, and soon began the journey of recreating those exotic and unique dishes we craved.

Nowadays, when we’re passing through a city, we’ll still savor a meal out, but the discussion over dinner often focuses on analyzing what we’re eating and plotting how we can make this at home. This is especially true at chain restaurants, where we’re unlikely to coax out a secret recipe and need to rely on our own intuition to recreate the dish. One example: Japanese Pan-Fried Noodles inspired by our favorite dish at Noodles & Company.

In the same vein, we loved the bread bowls at Panera for serving soup and took on the challenge of recreating this on the farm. These bread bowls are surprisingly easy and don’t need a second rising time. The recipe below makes eight medium-sized bowls that hold about a cup of soup, but you can easily adjust them bigger or smaller. We like to keep some in the freezer for easy single servings, especially with our new favorite winter recipe, Pumpkin Curry Soup.

But don’t stop at soup with these bread bowls. They work equally well with chili, chowder, stew, or any thick and hearty dish. Bread bowls also make fun, edible containers for condiments, like Vegan Almond Dip. For larger gatherings needing a bigger dip bowl, use the same recipe but craft two larger bowls. (You might need to bake about 5 minutes longer.)

Recipe: Homemade Bread Bowls

Yield: 8 bowls

Ingredients

  • 4½ teaspoons active dry yeast (two 1/4-ounce packages)
  • 2¼ cups warm water (105 to 110 degrees F)
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 6 cups bread flour
  • 1 tablespoon cornmeal

Preparation
In large mixing bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. (We use the bowl of our stand mixer.) Let yeast proof about 10 minutes, until it starts to bubble.

Add olive oil, sugar and salt, and mix until combined.

Slowly add flour and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes.

Punch down dough and divide into eight equal balls. Place on a greased cookie sheet that has been lightly sprinkled with cornmeal. Let stand in a warm place until dough has doubled in size, about 45 minutes. Gently slash the tops of the bread bowls with a sharp knife.

Bake at 400 degrees F for about 20 minutes or until golden brown. Cool completely.

Cut the top fourth off the bowl. Remove some of bread inside (save to eat with your soup) and fill with soup, chili, chowder, stew or dip.

Savoring the good life,

John and Lisa's Signatures

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Categories
Urban Farming

Orange Upside-down Cake

/images/blogs/orange_upsidedown_cake.jpg

Photo by Judith Hausman

This upside-down cake will turn a frown into a smile.

Here’s a sweet for January. Not only does it use citrus in season, but it also is lighter and more sanctimonious than most cakes because January is the month of eaters’ remorse and diet resolutions. The cake is relatively lightly sweetened and uses oil rather than butter.

The technique is easy, too. Take care to peel away the bitter white pith of the oranges just under the thicker skin. Then, lay the sliced oranges in a little melted butter and brown sugar, rather than caramelizing white sugar. Last, spoon the easy batter on top of the oranges and bake. 

It can be a little tricky to turn the cake out of the pan, of course. Cool it after baking but not entirely. Place an upside-down plate on top of the pan, hold the sides and flip it over all at once. The cake should drop onto the plate. If it doesn’t … so what? You can use a cake cutter to lift out individual portions instead. Consider garnishing the slices with a bit of (low-fat!) vanilla ice cream.

Servings: 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

  • 4 juicy oranges, such as navel or tangelo
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 2 teaspoons cardamom or ginger
  • 3/4 cup Greek yogurt
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 1/2 cup flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt 
  • 1/3 cup canola oil
  • grated zest of one orange
PREPARATION

Heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Carefully peel and slice the oranges. In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, melt the butter, brown sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of cardamom (or ginger) together until moistened. Arrange the orange slices concentrically over the sugar-butter mix. Cool briefly while you prepare the batter.

Whisk together yogurt, eggs, orange zest, vanilla and sugar. Mix in flour, additional spice, baking powder and salt. Trickle in the oil and mix gently. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

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Categories
Homesteading

Hood on the Range

A range hood is necessary in every kitchen that has a cooktop, not just for alleviating those smoky mishaps but also for removing excess moisture, grease, gases and fumes. This kitchen feature plays a key role in cooking safety that deserves its dues, but most often it’s the aesthetics that drive our decision-making process in this area.

I knew before I ever started my search for a range hood that I wanted a more custom/built-in look and feel. I didn’t want shiny chrome and silver breaking the soft, clean white lines of the open shelves I envisioned for the space, so building one ourselves seemed the most logical option. This is when I jumped into research because I had no idea how to go about constructing a range hood or how to acquire the parts for it.

I began by looking at inspiration kitchens on websites and following the virtual rabbit down the hole in efforts to track down preassembled units, kits and DIY blueprints based on the ones I liked best. I have to say, I didn’t find what I was looking for, but that doesn’t mean I didn’t learn some useful tips along the way. Here are four guidelines for selecting a ventilation fan for your kitchen.

  1. Your minimum fan size should be 2 to 4 inches wider than the cook top—a commonly broken guideline in most kitchens—to allow for adequate ventilation, especially with gas appliances.
  2. Minimize the number of bends or turns in your ventilation ducts to maximize ventilation and reduce grease and moisture buildup.
  3. Situate the fan low enough to capture smoke and steam as it rises with minimal chance for spread—26 to 30 inches is standard but up to 36 inches is still acceptable. When in doubt, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
  4. Capturing smoke and steam also requires good uptake. Look for online calculators and formulas online to determine your fan’s necessary cubic feet per minute of uptake. Based on our gas range size, duct setup and room dimensions, we calculated that our setup required at least 450 cfm.

I was a bit overwhelmed by all of the technical data I came across during my research, but it became useful in narrowing down the plethora of hood-fan model choices.

Once we had the insert selected, ordered and in hand, we built a “wrap” to encase both the fan insert and the ducting. We used 2x4s to frame it, anchored it to studs on both the wall and ceiling, and covered it with birch sheeting, filling in the seams with a heavy-duty epoxy suitable for wood. Then it was just a matter of trimming, sanding and painting the whole shebang. We used some crown moulding to finish around the top, as well as to create a shelf on the front. The shelf is simply a piece of moulding topped with a 1×4 ripped to size. To fill the small holes left on the ends so that they flushed up with the sides of the hood, we tacked on wood triangles and covered them with a thin layer of epoxy for a smooth, seamless finish.

Clean lines made for easier assembly, as well as a timeless aesthetic, and I’m delighted with how well it turned out. The shelf is more decorative than functional but gives the feel of a mantel and breaks up the visual lines, drawing attention to a DIY conversation piece in the kitchen.

Tip: For large cracks, seams or holes, a wood-grade epoxy provides a smoother finish and faster dry time than standard wood putty.

Building a range hood with timeless aesthetics requires a focus on practicality as well as design. Photo by Stephanie Staton (HobbyFarms.com)

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Categories
Recipes

Maple Crème

Maple Crème - Photo by Rachael Brugger (HobbyFarms.com)
Photo by Rachael Brugger

Use this recipe for maple crème as you would whipped cream. It’s great for dipping berries and other fruits, and the maple syrup adds a touch of nutty sweetness.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 2-3 T. maple syrup

Preparation
Beat 1 cup heavy whipping cream until it nearly holds shape, add 2 to 3 tablespoons maple syrup, and beat until mixed for a slightly sweet complement to sliced or stewed fruit.

 

Categories
Homesteading

How to Make Maple Syrup

About 15 feet from our basement door stands a giant, old sugar maple that any good thunderstorm could coax into smashing the southern half of our roof. Its shade keep us cool in summer, its leaves become speckled playthings for the kids in fall, and it takes some bite out of winter’s nastiest easterly winds. But our real love affair blossoms in spring, when the towering fortress of squirrels, cardinals and fairies becomes a fountain of sap, the source of winter’s greatest consolation: maple syrup.

After a few years of trial and error in our backyard, making syrup each year has become a late-winter ritual for our family, a reason for us to put down the cough syrup and crawl outside, looking past months of mud and ice for warmer, sweeter times to come. We’ve learned syrup making, aka sugaring, is relatively simple and easy. For those willing to commit the time—sugaring’s biggest demand—the process proves interesting and the end product rewarding (and delicious). So if you’ve ever given maple sap extended thought or maybe you’d just love to serve up pancakes with syrup you made yourself, here’s a basic small-scale reference to help you through the process of sugaring from a few good trees in your own yard.

How to Make Maple Syrup - Photo courtesy Chiot's Run/Flickr (HobbyFarms.com)
Courtesy Chiot’s Run/Flickr

Step 1: Boil the sap.
Once you’ve collected a couple buckets of sap, start your fire. The ideal setup for a small operation would be an outdoor fire pit with an awning—something in the open air that can run continuously with little risk and hassle. With small children running around outdoors and no real yard space, we use two large stockpots on a side-kitchen stovetop and run an exhaust fan and a dehumidifier constantly to keep the house from becoming a giant cloud of steam. (The first time I boiled sap, I cooked down about 5 gallons in our home kitchen with no ventilation—the house was in a wet fog for a week!)

Find a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven (or two or three), fill it with sap, set it over the fire, and watch it steam, letting evaporation and condensation do the work. As the sap reduces, simply add more, keeping track of how much sap you’ve boiled and skimming off any debris (leaves, insects, et cetera) that might have fallen into the collection buckets.

The common ratio in syrup making is 40-to-1: 40 gallons of sap make 1 gallon of syrup. This varies somewhat depending on the sap’s sweetness and timing. The earliest sap that flows in colder temps and produces the cherished “light amber” syrup often exceeds this ratio (more like 50-to-1), and the later, warmer sap that produces more commercial “cooking amber” often cuts the ratio (30-to-1). In any case, as a small-scale syrup maker with limited resources and many other distractions, boiling about 10 gallons per day to make a pint of syrup is usually manageable, though even those nights get late. Using two Dutch oven-sized pots, boiling down 10 gallons usually takes between five and seven hours, depending on the sugar content of the sap. Large operations can run evaporators constantly for weeks, but for those of us who need sleep, understand your limits and give yourself a stopping point each day.

Starting and stopping the process each day will leave you with overflowing buckets and a lot of sap left to boil on most nights, but that’s OK—it will eventually become syrup. Store it in a cool, dark, clean place, as sap will cloud and spoil quickly in warmer conditions. We’ve used anything from clean, sturdy, 30-gallon plastic trash cans to 5-gallon plastic totes to cover and store sap in our basement and garage as it stacks up in the early days of sugaring. Just keep things organized, boiling the oldest sap first. If you become too worried about the sap spoiling, you can drink maple sap straight away, or substitute it for water in just about anything to add a sweet, nutty flavor. For syrup purposes, as long as the sap doesn’t develop a color or odor, boil it. If a few gallons should sour, use it as fertilizer—just pour it back around your trees or on a nice garden spot.

Step 2: Make syrup.
Keep track of how much sap you’ve boiled throughout the day, finishing it off at your chosen size—be it 5, 10 or 20 gallons. When you’re ready, stop adding sap and combine all boiled liquids together in one pot to condense. When the sap begins to darken and everything’s condensed enough to fill the last pot about one-quarter full, it’s time to keep close watch. Attach a standard candy thermometer onto the pot, and insert it into the sap. Heat to 212 degrees F and monitor closely as it continues to rise 7 degrees. Once it hits 219 degrees F, it has become syrup and your boiling is done. Between 212 and 219 degrees F, the sap will begin to foam up, sometimes very quickly. Adding a splash of heavy cream will calm this, or if you want to keep the syrup pure, be ready to move the pot around or adjust the heat to keep it from foaming over.

Step 3: Bottle it.
When the temperature hits 219 degrees F, have sterile pint jars ready and carefully pour the syrup through a metal sieve and/or standard cheesecloth up to about 1/4 inch from the jar’s top. Wipe off any drops from the rim of the jar, and seal it with a standard lid and ring. Leave the sealed jar on the counter to cool—it will seal itself as it cools, with no need to process further in a water bath. (Doing so crystallizes the syrup.) When you hear the seal pop, you’ve succeeded in making and preserving one pint of maple syrup that will keep with or without refrigeration for 10 to 12 months. Congratulate yourself with a midnight toast … or a pancake.

Keep this process going in larger or smaller batches until you’ve boiled all the sap you have, or until you’ve boiled all the sap you care to boil. If you stay organized, you’ll be able to discern the change in syrup ambers (from light to medium to dark), and see the change in the sap itself.

For backyard sugaring with only a few trees, expect to make anywhere from 1 to 3 gallons of syrup. The syrup is ready to eat as soon as it cools, but we’ve found the flavors, as with pickling, are richer after curing in the jars for two to three weeks—if you can wait that long. And remember, don’t be shocked when your syrup seems much thinner than commercially available syrups—real maple syrup is runny, and once you’ve had the real thing made from your own trees, it might be the only syrup you’ll ever want to eat.

This article originally appeared in the March/April 2014 issue of Hobby Farm Home.

Categories
Recipes

Whole-wheat Pancakes

Whole-wheat Pancakes - Photo by Rachael Brugger (HobbyFarms.com)
Photo by Rachael Brugger

Yield: 12 4- to 5-inch pancakes

Ingredients

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
  • 2 tsp. baking soda
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1 T. sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • butter and oil to grease pan

Preparation
Sift together flours, baking soda, salt and sugar. Separate two eggs. In one bowl, mix egg yolks, vanilla extract and whole milk until well combined. Stir into dry ingredients until just mixed. In second bowl, whip egg whites until foamy. Gently fold into batter.

Heat grill pan on medium heat with small amount of butter and oil. Once pan is hot, pour 3- to 4-inch circles of batter into pan, cook until set and golden on each side, about 2 minutes per side. Serve warm and individually buttered, in stacks of three or four, drizzled generously with the maple syrup from the trees in your yard.