There are many types of hammers, each designed for specific tasks around the farm, workshop, or home. From claw hammers to rubber mallets, choosing the right hammer for the job makes work safer and more efficient.
In this guide, we’ll explore 6 common hammer types, their uses and which ones belong on your farm tools rack.
1. Claw Hammer: Your Everyday Go-To Tool
Let’s talk about the obvious first. The claw hammer is what everybody thinks of when they say the word “hammer.” It has a rounded head designed especially for nailing, and a lever-like “claw” on the back intended for the safe removal of bent nails. They are incredibly useful for many types of general tapping, pounding, and nailing. You might consider keeping one in the garage, another in the barn and one in the stable. 16-ounce claw hammers—meaning the head itself weighs 16 ounces—are quite common and popular. But you can also find lighter and shorter 12-ounce hammers for small jobs or powerful 20-ounce models for experienced users.
2. Framing Hammer: Built for Heavy Construction
Related to the claw hammer is its robust cousin, the framing hammer. These tend to be a little more heavily built and ideal for lots of nailing and rough construction of stud walls and rafters. Building a toolshed? This hammer has you covered.
3. Sledgehammer: Best for Demolition Jobs
For deconstruction tasks, which can come up often on a farm, a sledgehammer is a key tool to have on hand. The head of a sledgehammer weighs a good amount, usually between 5 and sometimes up to a whopping 20 pounds for serious professional use. Sledgehammers do their work not only from the additional mass in the head, but also from the way the user swings them with both arms. A 6- or 8-pound sledgehammer is helpful to many users by packing a good punch without weighing so much that it’s unwieldy.
4. Club Hammer: Compact Power in One Hand
Maybe a sledgehammer is overkill. Maybe you’re not trying to break concrete, but you simply need more force than you can get from a typical claw hammer. This is where the handy club hammer comes in. You hold it in a single hand like a claw hammer, but the head weighs around 4 pounds, so it delivers a lot more force than a claw hammer, so it’s good for breaking loose stubborn material.
5. Rubber Mallet: Gentle Force for Delicate Surfaces
Sometimes you need to give a firm but delicate tap, and you need to do so on material like wood or metal that you don’t want to damage. A rubber mallet can help deliver a soft knock that won’t nick paint or dent metal, thanks to the rubberized edge of the mallet.
6. Dead Blow Hammer: Precision Striking Tool
For some precise work, like automotive or farm machinery tasks, it’s sometimes helpful to be able to place an exact amount and direction of force from a hammer onto a particular spot. A dead blow hammer can do this job with minimal bouncing and jostling.
FAQ: Types of Hammers
What are the most common types of hammers?
The most common types include claw hammers, sledgehammers, rubber mallets, framing hammers, dead blow hammers, and club hammers.
What is the best type of hammer for DIY?
A standard 16-ounce claw hammer is ideal for most DIY tasks, while a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer may be better for delicate work.
Can I use a club hammer instead of a sledgehammer?
A club hammer is a good alternative for smaller demolition tasks where a full-size sledgehammer would be too heavy or unwieldy.
Types of Hammers: Final Thoughts
Whether you’re building, demolishing, or doing fine-tuned mechanical work, there’s a hammer designed for the task. By understanding the different types of hammers, you can equip your organized toolbox with the right ones for the job—and work smarter, not harder.
Queen excluders are a common beekeeping tool used to manage where the queen bee can lay her eggs within the hive. By placing a queen excluder between the brood box and the honey supers, beekeepers can prevent the queen from entering the upper boxes, keeping brood out of the honey harvest. While some beekeepers swear by their effectiveness, others argue that queen excluders can disrupt the natural flow of the hive.
So, are queen excluders right for your apiary? Here’s what you need to know.
What Is a Queen Excluder?
When you pull out a beeframe to use for honey harvesting, you prefer those perfectly formed, wall-to-wall frames filled with glorious capped honey. These are the frames that are easy to place in an extractor, or for cutting comb away under the crush-and-strain method.
But things become more complicated when there are eggs, larvae, pupae, and queen cells scattered among your honey! One remedy is to utilize a queen excluder. This is a very simple tool—just a metal or plastic screen that is placed above the brood boxes and below the honey supers. A queen excluder makes use of the different anatomy of a queen bee and a worker bee. The holes in the excluder are sized and shaped with such dimensions that worker bees are able to traverse the excluder, but the queen cannot fit through. As a result, only honey is stored above, while the queen is restricted to laying brood only in the lower boxes.
How a Queen Excluder Works in a Langstroth Hive
In a classic Langstroth beehive, the queen is permitted to travel anywhere she wants to throughout the hive. As she travels unrestricted, she naturally lays eggs in any available cell she has a mind to, in any hive box, high or low. Some queens may tend to lay eggs in the lower sections of the hive, and these boxes are often referred to as “brood boxes”—since that’s where the larvae are raised. The upper portions of the hive are called “supers” or “honey supers” since they’re higher up in the “superstructure.” A lot of beekeepers use smaller boxes up there to keep the weight of all that honey manageable.
But since the queen isn’t restricted in where she may go, she might very well lay eggs—and the colony will subsequently raise larvae—in the supers. She might place a good number of eggs in the brood boxes where they belong, but a portion of her eggs might be up in the supers.
This doesn’t really matter to the bees—they’ll continue to happily store honey and pollen around the eggs. But it might matter to you when it comes time to harvest honey.
Benefits of Using a Queen Excluder
With honey frames that are kept “clean” and easier for harvesting by using a queen excluder, you’ll also likely find fewer worker bees up in the supers when you’re ready to harvest, since they tend to follow where the queen is. And during hive inspections, it’s handy to know that the queen is guaranteed to be down in the lower boxes.
Cleaner honey frames: Prevents eggs, larvae, and pupae from being laid in honey supers, resulting in capped honey that’s easier to extract.
Simplifies hive inspections: Ensures the queen remains in the lower box, making her easier to locate.
Less bee activity in supers: Fewer bees in the honey section during harvest, making the process quicker and less disruptive.
Potential Drawbacks of Queen Excluders
There are a couple of downsides to using a queen excluder.
Worker bees might have to expend extra energy squeezing through the excluder.
Because it takes extra work to squeeze through the excluder, workers might be more likely to try and store honey down among the brood, eventually filling up available laying space. This is called a “honey-bound” hive and could even encourage swarming.
Squeezing through the excluder can also put additional wear and tear on the wings of the worker bees, causing occasional damage.
Sometimes, drones attempt to cross the excluder and get stuck.
Do You Really Need a Queen Excluder?
Some beekeepers swear by them, while others avoid them entirely. Whether or not to use a queen excluder comes down to personal preference and hive conditions. If you’re unsure, consider testing a queen excluder in one hive and observing its impact on honey yield, brood pattern, and overall hive health.
Final Thoughts on Queen Excluders
Queen excluders can be a helpful tool for beehive management, especially if your priority is harvesting clean, brood-free honey. However, they may also introduce new challenges in colony behavior and productivity. Understanding both the benefits and drawbacks will help you make the best decision for your apiary.
The Cayuga Duck is one of the few domestic duck breeds to originate in the U.S. It’s a true American classic!
What Is a Cayuga Duck?
The Cayuga duck is known for shimmering beetle-green colored feathers, a calm temperament and unique black eggs. It is prized ornamentally and practically. Cayugas are excellent layers and produce flavorful meat. They are the only ducks to lay black eggs and make a fun addition to backyard flocks.
Cayuga Duck History: An American Mystery
The Cayuga’s origin is a mystery, as no one knows how they were first developed. A New York miller is credited with introducing the breed after he captured a pair of wild ducks, but the rest of the origin of the breed is unknown.
The Cayuga duck, however, is considered a descendant of the Mallard, as drakes sport a curly tail feather — a physical characteristic only seen in Mallards and their descendants.
The Cayuga duck began to gain popularity when Mr. John S. Clark introduced the breed to the Finger Lakes region of Cayuga County, New York, in 1840. The breed grew in popularity and went on to become the primary duck raised for meat in the U. S. during the second half of the nineteenth century.
It wasn’t until the arrival of the Pekin from China in 1873 that the breed’s popularity decreased.
Today, the Cayuga duck is listed as “Watch” by The Livestock Conservancy, meaning it is a heritage breed that is recovering but still needs support from backyard keepers and breeders.
Unique Egg Production
Cayuga duck females are unique, as they are the only ducks to lay black eggs. In late winter or early spring, when a Cayuga begins to lay, she will lay three to four black eggs. After those initial black eggs, the shell will fade to charcoal gray, then to a pale green or blue before fading to white. This is one of the reasons many backyard duck enthusiasts choose the Cayuga duck.
Egg production: 100–200 large eggs annually
Laying season: Spring and summer (not year-round)
Potential owners should bear in mind that this breed is a seasonal layer and will not produce eggs during the fall or winter months.
Cayuga Duck Meat: Flavorful but Unique
Even though Cayugas are usually kept for egg production and as family pets, they still make a good table bird and serve their original purpose well.
Ducks can be harvested by the age of eight weeks. But for optimal results, butchering should be held off until the ducklings reach twelve weeks of age.
The meat of the Cayuga duck has a good, strong, beefy, flavor. Like all ducks, the Cayuga’s meat is greasier than a chicken or turkey.
Meat flavor: Rich, beefy, and slightly greasy (like most duck)
Processing challenge: Black feathers may require skinning the carcass
The black feathers can make cleaning the carcass more difficult, often requiring the processor to skin the duck. This trait can be a disadvantage, and the breed may not be the best choice if you are raising duck meat as a source of income.
Adobe Stock/knelson20
Striking Plumage and Appearance
The Cayuga duck has luxurious black feathers with a beetle-green sheen. Depending on how sunlight reflects off the feather pigments, the beetle-green sheen can turn to hues of blue and purple.
While the drakes sport black feathers their entire lives, female Cayugas’ black feathering is slowly replaced with white feathers as the duck ages. If a duck lives long enough, its entire head and body will be covered mostly in white feathers. Both drakes and females sport black feet, legs, and bills.
Bill, feet, and legs: Black
Ducklings: Covered in black down, some with yellow chest markings
Cayuga ducklings are covered in black down, with some ducklings having a yellow stripe down their chest. Like their parents, the ducklings also have black feet, legs, and bills.
Size and Lifespan
Classified as a medium weight, the Cayuga tips the scales evenly between five and ten pounds. With drakes averaging eight pounds and females seven pounds.
Drakes: ~8 pounds
Females: ~7 pounds
Lifespan: 5–9 years, up to 12 years with excellent care
The Cayuga Duck has an average lifespan of five to nine years. However, if properly cared for and raised as pets, these black beauties can live an average of eight to twelve years.
Cayuga Duck Health and Care
The Cayuga duck can be prone to external parasites, such as lice and mites, if kept in unsanitary conditions or if not provided with adequate bathing water. Providing them with access to clean swimming water via a kiddie pool or stock tank several times a week should help prevent external parasites from taking up residence on your feathered friends.
Like all ducks, Cayugas can be prone to Botulism, so care should be taken to prevent them from coming into contact with contaminated feed or water.
If fed a well-balanced diet and kept safe from predators, the Cayuga duck should not pose a problem for the novice and is relatively healthy.
Cayuga Duck Temperament
The Cayuga duck has a calm and friendly disposition, making it a good choice for those looking for a friendly pet duck. The breed is known for being independent and does not like to be held for long periods.
Intelligent and quick to learn, the Cayuga duck is capable of learning their name and can be taught to respond to simple commands. These intelligent duckies are problem solvers and can cause mischief if not provided with proper mental and physical stimulation.
Fun Facts About the Cayuga Duck
Due to their calm temperament, the Cayuga duck can be used in herding trials in the placement of Indian Runners.
The Cayuga duck is one of the quietest of the domestic duck breeds, with the females’ quack still being louder than the drakes’.
Did you know? Cayuga ducks are more prone to biting and nibbling toes than other domestic duck breeds.
Final Thoughts: Why Choose the Cayuga Duck?
From black eggs to beetle-green plumage, the Cayuga duck is a true American original. Whether you’re seeking a quiet pet, an eye-catching flock member, or a dual-purpose breed for both eggs and meat, the Cayuga duck delivers on all fronts. With their gentle nature and unique appearance, Cayugas are a delightful and practical choice for any backyard poultry keeper.
🦆 Cayuga Duck FAQ
What are Cayuga ducks used for?
Cayuga ducks are dual-purpose birds raised for both egg production and meat. They lay about 100–150 eggs per year, with eggs starting out black and gradually fading to gray and then white as the season progresses. Their meat is rich and flavorful, making them ideal for dishes like duck confit.
Where did the Cayuga duck originate?
The Cayuga duck is believed to have descended from a pair of wild black ducks caught by a miller in Dutchess County, New York, in 1809. The ducks were domesticated, bred successfully, and eventually made their way to the Finger Lakes region. By 1874, the breed was recognized by the American Poultry Association.
What does a Cayuga duck look like?
Cayugas have striking greenish-black plumage, which may become mottled with white as they age. They feature a black bill (sometimes with olive tips) and black to dusky black feet that may turn slightly orange later in life. Their dark feathering makes plucking difficult, so many people opt to skin Cayugas when processing them for meat.
Do Cayuga ducks need special care?
Cayuga ducks are known for being hardy and cold-tolerant, making them ideal for northern climates. They are easily tamed when hand-raised and can forage for a significant portion of their diet if allowed to roam. Cayugas typically weigh 7 to 8 pounds and are capable breeders. A 2000 ALBC census reported 1,013 breeding Cayugas in North America.
Domestic duck breeds come in many colors and sizes. From tiny Call ducks to large Muscovy ducks, there is a breed to fit all your needs. So whether you raise ducks for eggs, meat or pets, these breeds have you covered. While other breeds of ducks are available in the United States, this article covers the 17 breeds recognized by the American Poultry Association.
The APA divides duck breeds into four classes: bantam, light, medium, and heavy. What weight class you choose largely depends on whether you raise ducks for eggs, meat, exhibition or pets. Let’s explore the breeds in each class to discover the best breed for your backyard.
Bantam Domestic Duck Breeds
Bantam ducks are usually raised for exhibition purposes or as pets. While they lay a medium number of eggs, these ducks are primarily ornamental and have a long lifespan.
Call SHAWN HAMILTON CLIX/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
1. Call Duck: A Tiny Duck with a Big Voice
With their big eyes and rubber duck-style bodies, these delightful ducks have a large following. One of the two smallest duck breeds recognized by the APA, Call ducks were originally bred to fit inside duck hunters’ pockets. With their loud, persistent quack, Call ducks acted as live decoys calling in wild waterfowl for the hunters to shoot.
After live decoys were banned from hunting practices, Call ducks gained popularity for exhibition and as house pets. These ducks have a sweet, endearing personality and love interacting with their favorite human.
As show birds, these ducks should weigh less than 2 pounds. While Calls come in many colors, the APA only recognizes Blue Bibbed, Blue Fawn, Buff, Butterscotch, Chocolate, Gray, Pastel, Snowy and White.
East Indie BONNIE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
2. East Indie: A Striking Black Bantam with Green Iridescence
Often referred to as Black East Indies, this breed resembles a miniature Cayuga. Nicknamed the Labrador, Black East Indies have black plumage with iridescent shades of green, blue and purple. The bill, legs and feet are beetle black, and the eyes are dark brown.
As Black East Indie hens age, white feathers may appear. While an aging drake’s body remains black, it may sport white circles around the eyes. White feathering is a disqualification, so only young East Indies are used for showing purposes.
This breed has yet to gain the popularity many other breeds have due to their poor laying and difficulty breeding, and they’re only kept for exhibition purposes.
Black East Indies are strong fliers and need their wings trimmed to prevent flying. This breed enjoys foraging and swimming. The breed weighs in at 24 to 32 ounces.
3. Mallard: The Iconic Wild-Type Duck in Miniature Form
The largest of the three bantam breeds, Mallards are excellent mothers and fair layers, producing 60 to more than 100 tinted, blue or green eggs annually. Mallards are excellent fliers and will migrate if given the opportunity. Trimming wings and housing in enclosed runs are the best ways to keep these ducks from straying. Despite these characteristics, Mallards revert to captivity quickly and make friendly pets. Mallards weigh between 2 and 4 pounds and come in two recognized colors: Gray and Snowy.
Before acquiring Mallards, check with your local wildlife experts to see if a license is required to own, breed or sell Mallards in your state.
4. Runner: Upright Forager Known for Egg Production
In the lightweight category, Runner ducks run rather than waddle. These delightful ducks are easy to herd and are the first livestock many herding dogs learn to herd before moving on to larger livestock.
Popular in the show ring, Runners come in several recognized colors: Black, Buff, Chocolate, Cumberland Blue, Fawn and White, Gray, Penciled and White.
Runner ducks can be nervous, but make ideal family pets when kept in small numbers and handled frequently. Hens are good layers, averaging one hundred fifty to two hundred white eggs per duck.
Lightweight Domestic Duck Breeds
These breeds are the champion egg layers of the duck world, with drakes and hens weighing in between four and six pounds.
5. Khaki Campbell: The Prolific Egg-Laying Champion
The most prolific egg layer, the Khaki Campbell duck rivals the Leghorn chicken for egg-laying consistency. These lovely ducks are excellent foragers and love to eat insects. They tend to be nervous but can be tamed in small backyard flocks.
Campbells must be fed a complete, well-balanced layer ration to produce a lot of eggs. Drakes are vigorous breeders, so keeping more than one drake per flock isn’t advised. This duck is only recognized in the breed’s original color, Khaki.
Selbe/Flickr
6. Magpie: A Friendly, Dual-Purpose Duck with Unique Markings
Believed to descend from the Huttengem duck, Magpies are a beautiful breed known for their distinct coloring. The breed is recognized in two varieties: Black and White, and Blue and White. Drakes and hens sport white bodies with black or blue caps covering the top of their heads. The back is solid black/ blue from shoulders to wingtips. When viewed from above, the colored marking should resemble a heart.
Magpies are high-strung and startle easily. They can fly small distances when frightened, so their wings should be trimmed to prevent them from straying. Hens are good layers of 200 mainly white eggs annually.
Welsh Harlequin ERIN SYNDER
7. Welsh Harlequin: A Calm Duck That Lays Abundantly
The calmest of the lightweight breeds, Welsh Harlequin hens are good egg layers (averaging 100 to 200 eggs annually) and excellent mothers.
While the Welsh Harlequin can be found in two popular colors, silver and gold, the APA only recognizes the Silver variety. Silver drakes resemble Mallard drakes; hens are silvery white with black penciling and a blue wing speculum. This breed is calm and curious and loves interacting with their favorite human.
8. Crested: A Curious Duck with a Fluffy Feather Pom-Pom
Crested ducks are a middleweight breed and can be easily recognized by the giant pom poms on their heads. This crest of feathers is caused by a mass of fatty tissue growing out of a hole in the duck’s skull. While a duck of any breed can be crested, breeders have carefully selected ducks to breed for this fancy feather-do.
Crested ducks are nervous and can be easily injured or bullied (especially the drakes) by non-crested breeds. Avoid free-ranging, as predators can easily pick off these ducks.
Crested females are decent egg layers, producing an average of 120 creamed-colored eggs annually. The APA recognizes two varieties: Black and White.
Middleweight Domestic Duck Breeds
Medium-weight ducks are the dual-purpose breeds of the duck world. These hardy breeds are less nervous and lay fewer eggs than their lightweight cousins but don’t produce as much meat as the heavyweight class, with hens and drakes averaging 5 to 8 pounds.
Buff LINDA BESTWICK/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
9. Buff: A Calm and Productive Golden-Feathered Duck
Buff ducks are the only poultry breed recognized by the APA to be named after its only color. Buff ducks are excellent table birds and make reasonably good layers, producing an average of 100 white or tinted eggs annually.
Hens and drakes are friendly, docile, alert and intelligent. They don’t have any flying abilities and are ideal ducks to raise in a backyard.
Cayuga DALE CHESTNUT/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
10. Cayuga: An All-Black Duck with a Gentle Disposition
The main meat duck in the United States in the mid-19th century, Cayugas are an excellent table bird for those looking for dark meat. With their black feathers, legs, bill and dark brown eyes, these delightful ducks look like giant versions of the Black East Indies.
Cayugas are quiet, hardy birds that love to forage. Hens are good layers, averaging 150 eggs annually. Eggs start black but quickly fade to white throughout the egg-laying season. They only come in a Black variety.
Swedish ANDERS GUSTAVSSON, HTTPS://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY-SA/3.0/
11. Swedish: A Hardy, Blue-Feathered Bird for Meat and Eggs
Swedish ducks are an orchardist’s best friend. These ducks love to forage and are happiest when allowed to free-range in orchards and pastures, trimming weeds and grasses, and feasting on harmful pests. The downside to these ducks is that they can and will fly, so trimming their wings is necessary.
Swedish ducks produce superior-tasting meat and are excellent table birds. Hens are good layers, averaging 150 white or green-tinted eggs annually. Blue is the only standard variety, but you can also find them in black, silver and splashed color patterns.”
Heavyweight Domestic Duck Breeds
The draft horses of the duck world, the heavyweight class, are known for their superb meat, calm and friendly temperaments, and willingness to brood and raise young. Heavyweight breeds average between 7 and 14 pounds.
Aylesbury MARILYN BARBONE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
12. Aylesbury: An English Meat Duck with Snow-White Plumage
Aylesbury ducks look like Pekins with pale bills. Aylesbury’s bills are pink instead of the bright orange bills most Pekins sport. These ducks are calm, love to eat and can easily become overweight. Hens are poor layers, averaging 30 to 100 white or green-tinted eggs annually. White is the only variety.
13. Silver Appleyard: A Beautifully Marked, Dual-Purpose Breed
Often referred to as a Silver Appleyard, this heavyweight duck is easily recognized by its chunky size and pastel Mallard coloring. Appleyards love to eat and can quickly become overweight. Allow ducks access to green pastures and avoid overfeeding to prevent obesity. If fed a good quality layer ration, hens are excellent layers of 150 white eggs annually. Appleyards are excellent mothers and make ideal family pets.
One of the most difficult ducks to breed, Aylesbury ducks need access to swimming water to breed. Never allow breeding stock to become obese.
Muscovy DIETER76/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
14. Muscovy: A Muscular, Quiet Duck That’s Not Technically a True Duck
The only domestic breed recognized by the APA not to originate from the Mallard, Muscovies are an unusual duck. While most ducks quack, Muscovies hiss, croak and coo. Muscovy ducks are also the only ones with bare skin on their faces. This trait makes them susceptible to frostbite in colder climates. These ducks are known for their excellent meat qualities and brooding and mothering skills.
Muscovy ducks are an invasive species and have been banned in several states. Before acquiring Muscovy ducks, check with your local fish and wildlife department to see if it’s legal to own Muscovies in your area. Muscovies come in five recognized colors: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Silver and White.
Pekin ANDERS93/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
15. Pekin: The Classic American Meat Duck
The “king of ducks,” Pekins have earned their popularity in egg and meat production. Pekins are fast growers and reach market size in 7 weeks. As egg layers, Pekin hens average 100 to 200 white or tinted extra-large eggs.
When choosing a family pet, it’s difficult to beat the Pekin. Gregarious, talkative, friendly and fun, these ducks imprint on their human family as ducklings, creating a bond that will last their entire life. Pekins come in one variety: White.
Rouen ERNI/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
16. Rouen: A Hefty, Handsome Duck Resembling a Mallard
Bred several hundred years ago in France, Rouens were once popular ducks raised for their superb quality dark meat. These days, this Gray breed is mainly kept for exhibition, egg production (hens lay an average of one hundred and fifty white, blue, or green eggs annually), and pets.
Rouens look like large Mallards with duller markings and come in two varieties: Production and Exhibition. Production Rouens average 6 to 8 pounds, while exhibition Rouens tip the scale between 9 and 12 pounds. Both strains are calm, make good pets and require swimming water for successful breeding.
Saxony GDMATTHEWS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM
17. Saxony: A Rare, German-Bred Duck with Warm Coloring
Albert Franz bred Saxony ducks in the 1930s in East Germany to be fast-maturing table birds. While they are still considered a meat breed, Saxony ducks are mostly kept as egg layers and pets in backyard flocks. Hens are excellent egg layers, producing an average of 150 white to blue-green eggs annually.
Drakes and hens have calm, quiet, and gentle personalities and enjoy foraging. Saxony ducks are recognized in one unnamed variety.
Choosing the Right Duck Breed for Your Farm
Whether you’re raising ducks for eggs, meat, show, or companionship, the 17 domestic duck breeds recognized by the APA offer a wide variety of traits to meet your needs. From the hardy Pekin to the ornamental Call, each breed brings something unique to the barnyard. Consider your goals, climate, and available space as you decide which breed—or combination of breeds—is best for your setup. With the right match, your ducks can become a productive and enjoyable part of your homestead for years to come.
🦆 Frequently Asked Questions About Domestic Duck Breeds
Q: What is the best duck breed for eggs?
A: The Khaki Campbell is widely considered one of the best egg-laying duck breeds, producing up to 300 eggs per year. The Runner duck is another strong layer with an upright body shape and an active personality.
Q: Which duck breed is best for meat?
A: Because of its fast growth and mild flavor, the Pekin duck is the most popular meat breed in the United States. The Rouen, also raised for meat, grows more slowly.
Q: Are domestic duck breeds good pets?
A: Yes! Breeds like the Call duck and Cayuga are known for their friendly temperaments and can make great pets with proper care and socialization.
Q: Can different duck breeds live together?
A: Most domestic duck breeds can cohabitate peacefully, especially if introduced properly and given enough space. Just be mindful of size differences and any overly aggressive individuals.
Q: What’s the difference between wild and domestic duck breeds?
A: Domestic ducks are bred for specific traits like temperament, productivity, and appearance. Unlike wild ducks, they generally cannot fly long distances and rely on humans for food and shelter.
This article about domestic duck breeds was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazine online. Click here to subscribe.
The average lifespan of a duck varies widely depending on breed, care, and environment.
What Is the Average Lifespan of a Duck?
On average, ducks can live anywhere from 5 to 15 years. Ducks are not as long-lived as geese. The average lifespan of a domestic duck is 10 years or less. As a general rule, the largest breeds of duck have the shortest lifespan. Seldom do they live beyond five to seven years of age.
Duck Lifespan by Breed
Muscovy Ducks
An exception is the Muscovy.This duck might reach a lifespan of between eight and 12 years of age, or more.
Pekin Ducks
The Pekin (probably due to its rapid growth rate as a young bird) normally has a relatively short lifespan, perhaps five years. The first part of a Pekin to fail as it ages is often its legs. I suspect that rapid weight gain in its first year taxes its ability to support itself.
The actual useful lifespan span of a Pekin as an exhibition duck might be only three years. “Useful life” is determined by the length of time it’s useful as a breeder.
Medium & Light Ducks
The average lifespan for a medium or light duck (Cayugas, Blue Swedish, Runners) might exceed that of the largest duck by two or three years.
Keep in mind, however, that ducks kept for egg production might only produce an optimal number of eggs per year for two or three years. Pushing female ducks to produce large numbers of eggs will probably shorten the lifespan of a duck or a member of any breed.
Bantam Ducks
The longest lifespan by a considerable margin is one of the bantam ducks—the Calls and Black East Indies in particular.
A number of mine have lived a decade or more, and one Grey Call female lived 15 years. They also tend to have longer useful lives from a breeder’s standpoint, with males remaining fertile for as long as a decade and some females able to produce eggs for an even longer period, assuming the best of care. Because they carry less weight and don’t experience ultra-fast growth rates, their bodies tend to hold up longer.
🦆 FAQ: How Long Do Ducks Live?
Q: What is the average lifespan of a duck?
A: The average lifespan of a duck is typically 5 to 15 years, depending on breed, care, and whether the duck is kept as a pet or for production.
Q: What duck breed lives the longest?
A: Bantam breeds like the Call duck and Black East Indies can live up to 15 years or more with proper care.
Q: Why do some ducks have shorter lifespans?
A: Factors like rapid growth (as in Pekins), poor diet, or predator exposure can shorten a duck’s life.
Q: Can domestic ducks live longer than wild ducks?
A: Yes, with good care, domestic ducks often outlive their wild counterparts, who face natural threats and limited food.
Of course, a discussion of the lifespan in any breed assumes that the birds are provided with a good diet and appropriate housing and are not overcrowded.
This article about how long ducks live was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
When shopping for farm equipment, understanding tractor size categories is key to choosing the right machine. Make sure you’re up to date on your tractor lingo! The three main categories—subcompact, compact, and utility tractors—each offer different capabilities based on horsepower, attachments and intended use.
How to Choose Between Three Tractor Size Categories
Which type of tractor will best suit your hobby farming needs depends on many factors. But choosing the right model begins with sorting out the terminology.
Let’s break down these three similar but distinctly different tractor categories. We’ll explore the definitions and advantages of each.
1. What is a utility tractor?
Think of the most stereotypical tractor you can imagine … a powerful machine, with a cab and maybe a front-end loader, cultivating fields and moving compost.
This is the utility tractor. The machine is designed to tackle pretty much any task a farmer can imagine.
With horsepower ranging from approximately 40HP all the way to 100HP and beyond, utility tractors combine power with impressive versatility. A wide variety of attachments and implements can expand the capabilities of a utility tractor, which is where the “utility” descriptor comes from.
Oxford Languages defines the adjective utility as “useful, especially through being able to perform several functions.” That describes a utility tractor in a nutshell.
If you’re seeking speed and efficiency for large-scale farming projects, a utility tractor is the machine you need. The more horsepower you have, the more you can lift/push/tow/power/etc. at once.
An 8-foot snowblower attachment will clear snow twice as fast as a four-foot model, cutting in half the time you spend clearing snow.
2. What Is a Compact Utility Tractor?
A compact utility tractor is exactly what its name suggests—a smaller, more compact utility tractor designed for smaller-scale farming projects.
They generally run between 25HP and 60HP. That means high-end compact utility tractors are essentially decent utility tractors capable of baling hay and tackling other high-power tasks.
The benefits of compact utility tractors are multifold. Their smaller size makes them more maneuverable and also less expensive—a perfect combination for hobby farmers working small falls.
And since they’re smaller, they’re also lighter and kinder on your yard than heavier, less maneuverable utility tractors.
3. What Is a Subcompact Utility Tractor?
A subcompact utility tractor shrinks the versatility of utility and compact utility tractors into an even smaller package—indeed, very small. With horsepower ranging from about 20HP to 25HP, it’s easy to mistake a subcompact utility tractor for a high-quality garden tractor.
But there are a couple of key differences. Whereas garden tractors typically utilize gasoline engines, subcompact utility tractors usually run on diesel. And despite their unimposing size, many subcompact utility tractors bring PTOs, three-point hitches, and even front-end loaders to the equation, ensuring their “utility” claims aren’t overshadowed by their “subcompact” nature.
Of course, you’re not going to use full-sized implements with a subcompact utility tractor, and some tasks requiring higher horsepower (like baling hay) will be out of reach. But for the casual hobby farmer who needs a lightweight, maneuverable tractor for mowing fields and tending a garden, a subcompact utility tractor can be an effective and cost-effective choice.
❓FAQ: Understanding Tractor Size Categories
What are the main tractor size categories?
The three main tractor size categories are subcompact, compact, and utility. Subcompact tractors are under 25 horsepower and ideal for light-duty tasks on small properties. Compact tractors range from 25–60 horsepower and handle a broader range of attachments. Utility tractors, typically 40–100+ horsepower, are suited for heavy-duty work on larger farms.
How do I choose the right tractor size category for my farm?
Choosing the right size depends on your farm’s size, terrain, and workload. For basic mowing and hauling on small plots, a subcompact tractor may be sufficient. Compact tractors offer more versatility for mid-sized farms, while utility tractors are best for acreage over 10 acres or where larger implements are used.
What’s the difference between compact and utility tractors?
Compact tractors are smaller, easier to maneuver, and compatible with many attachments, making them ideal for small to mid-size farms. Utility tractors are larger, have more horsepower, and are better suited for heavy-duty fieldwork like plowing, baling, or pulling heavy loads.
Do tractor size categories affect implement compatibility?
Yes. Each tractor size category supports a different range of attachments and implement sizes. Subcompact tractors use Category 0 or Category 1 three-point hitches, while compact and utility tractors often use Category 1 or 2, allowing for heavier and more complex implements.
Can a subcompact tractor do the same work as a compact or utility tractor?
Not quite. While subcompacts are versatile for mowing, light hauling, and garden work, they lack the horsepower and frame strength needed for heavier tasks like large-scale tilling or field prep. Compact and utility tractors handle those jobs more efficiently.
This article comparing tractor size categories was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Zucchini growing in garden on garden fabric. Daniel Johnson
Landscape fabric, also known as weed mat or weed barrier, might seem like a perfect solution for keeping weeds at bay in your garden or landscape. And while it does have some benefits, landscape fabric isn’t always the right tool for the job. Let’s explore what it is, when it works best, and where it might cause more problems than it solves.
What Is Landscape Fabric (Weed Mat)?
Basically, weed mat is a porous textile product, made of various cloth or cloth-like materials, that comes on a roll and can be spread out around your garden or landscaping. Holes are easily cut in the fabric to make room for plants. Then some sort of organic covering is placed over the weed mat—perhaps some kind of mulch, or maybe gravel or stones, depending on the goal of the landscape.
When Is Landscape Fabric Useful?
It can be particularly useful as a part of fixed landscaping—perhaps around a stable, your home, or areas of the garden that aren’t turned over frequently. For example, maybe you have a stone retaining wall mixed into the farmyard. Landscape fabric placed behind the stones can permanently help prevent weeds from taking hold in between the rocks. Weed mat can be especially useful on slopes where erosion might otherwise occur.
Drawbacks of Using Landscape Fabric
There are some common downsides. Yes, weed mat initially smothers the weeds directly below it. But depending on the thickness and coverage, weed mat can also smother the ecological transfer of water, air, and soil nutrients, possibly becoming a detriment to the plants you want to grow. It can stop you from being able to actively build up the type of soil you’d like to have, for example, for growing mini cucumbers. Eventually, a layer of soil may form on top of the weed mat, permitting weeds to simply grow above the barrier! When this happens, they can start rooting right into the fabric, which is a real challenge to stop. If weeds get away like this, weed mat can actually make them more challenging to remove.
Should You Use Weed Mat in Your Garden?
You certainly can, but don’t think of it as maintenance-free. Weed mat is supposed to make your work easier, but to be most effective, you need to work with it—quickly eliminating weeds that form on the surface of the barrier before they can take hold, for instance. It’s usually best put to use around perennials—perhaps permanent shrubs or small trees that liven the landscape. Though some gardeners find it helpful in active working gardens, like vegetable gardens. It’s really a matter of weighing the pros and cons for your particular situation.
FAQ: Landscape Fabric
Q: Does landscape fabric prevent all weeds?
A: Landscape fabric helps suppress weeds by blocking sunlight and smothering the soil below, but it won’t eliminate weeds entirely. Over time, soil can build up on top of the fabric, allowing new weeds to grow.
Q: Is weed mat good for vegetable gardens?
A: Landscape fabric can be used in vegetable gardens, but it may hinder soil improvement and water flow. It’s more commonly recommended for permanent plantings like shrubs or trees.
Q: How long does weed mat last?
A: Depending on the material and environmental conditions, landscape fabric can last anywhere from 2 to 10 years before breaking down.
Is Weed Mat Right For You?
Landscape fabric can be a helpful tool in certain gardening and landscaping situations, especially when used around long-term plantings like shrubs, trees, or hardscaped areas. However, it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution. While it suppresses weeds and limits erosion, it can also restrict soil health and complicate future planting if not managed carefully. Weighing the pros and cons of weed mat in relation to your specific garden goals will help you decide if it’s the right choice—or if a more flexible, organic approach might serve you better in the long run.
Air compressor maintenance is essential to keeping your farm tools running safely and efficiently. Maintaining your air compressor helps extend its lifespan, prevent dangerous breakdowns, and keeps your pneumatic tools in top shape. Whether you’re running a portable or stationary unit, proper air compressor maintenance should be part of your regular farm equipment checklist.
It’s probably isn’t something that you’ve thought of lately, at least not on the same frequency as maintaining your generator, tractor or farm truck. But air compressors can do all kinds of important work on the farm, so it’s probably high time you gave your air compressor a bit of attention and TLC. Not just for maximum performance, but also for safety’s sake—these are powerful machines and misuse or mistreatment can cause the risk of injury.
Note: We’re not looking at inflators here. Inflators are those smaller handy tools that you might keep in the back of a vehicle for emergency use. They easily pump up a flat tire, but lack an air holding tank.
1. Drain Moisture Daily After Each Use
When you run your air compressor and fill it up, the air inside the tank is, well, compressed. This means that there is more air stored inside the tank than would normally be the case if it were simply open to the atmosphere around you. While compressed air can be utilized for all kinds of useful farm chores, a side effect is that moisture has a tendency to condense and collect inside the tank. While a little bit of water in the bottom of the tank isn’t really a big deal, if left there day after day it can begin to oxidize—in other words, it rusts the bottom of your compressor’s tank. If enough time goes by, the moisture can weaken the walls of the tank, causing an eventual air leak, or, even worse, an explosion when the compressed air rapidly breaks through the weak spot.
Luckily, you can prevent this problem by draining the tank daily after each use. This is different from simply letting the air pressure in the tank go back to zero. The compressor will have a small drain plug on the bottom of the air tank, which can be unscrewed, allowing the moisture buildup to release.
2. Clean or Replace Air Compressor Filters
Some air compressors have an air filter to prevent dust from interfering with the machine’s work. This is especially needed in farm conditions where dust can be prevalent. Cleaning the filter is quite easy and takes little time; just vacuum or wash the filter as indicated in the manual. Changing the filter is simply a matter of swapping the existing filter with an identical new one.
3. Change Air Compressor Oil Regularly
Some electric air compressors need oil to lubricate moving parts. If yours is such a model, you’ll want to keep an eye on the oil level and change it occasionally in accordance with the manual. Take care to replace the oil with the manufacturer’s recommended type.
4. Match Air Pressure (PSI) to Tool Requirements
Another issue to watch is the maximum PSI rating of any tools you connect to your compressor. You might have a slew of tools that are super useful around the farm, like air nailers for framing and building, or small blower attachments for cleaning hay dust or farm debris off of your equipment and farm machinery. Each of these tiny implements will have a manufacturer’s maximum PSI rating displayed on it. You don’t want to supply air pressure higher than this, or you risk damage or injury if the tool breaks under the strain. You can control the PSI output of your compressor with one of the control dials. Even if you have more PSI than this stored in reserve in the tank, you can separately control just how much air pressure is released out the hose and to the tool.
🛠️ FAQ: Air Compressor Maintenance
Q: How often should I perform air compressor maintenance?
A: Basic air compressor maintenance, like draining moisture and checking PSI, should be done after each use. Other tasks, such as changing the oil or cleaning air filters, may be done monthly or as recommended in the manufacturer’s manual.
Q: What happens if I don’t drain the air compressor tank?
A: Failing to drain moisture from the tank can lead to internal rusting. Over time, this weakens the tank walls and increases the risk of leaks or even tank failure. Draining the tank daily is a key part of safe and effective air compressor maintenance.
Q: Do all air compressors need oil changes?
A: Not all compressors require oil. Oil-lubricated compressors do need regular oil checks and changes, while oil-free models are designed to run without lubrication. Always consult your owner’s manual for your model’s specific air compressor maintenance needs.
Q: How can I tell if my air filter needs to be cleaned or replaced?
A: If your compressor is running less efficiently or you’re working in dusty environments, check the air filter. A dirty or clogged filter reduces airflow and can cause wear on internal parts. Cleaning or replacing filters regularly helps extend the life of your compressor.
Q: Can I use any PSI setting with my tools?
A: No, each air tool has a maximum PSI rating. Supplying too much pressure can damage the tool or cause injury. As part of your air compressor maintenance routine, always check the tool PSI requirements and adjust the regulator accordingly.
Air Compressor Maintenance: Final Thoughts
Proper air compressor maintenance doesn’t take much time, but it can make a big difference in how your equipment performs and how long it lasts. By draining moisture, cleaning filters, changing the oil, and monitoring PSI levels, you’ll help prevent breakdowns, improve safety, and get more reliable performance from your compressor. Make these simple steps part of your regular routine, and your air compressor will be ready to handle any job the farm throws at it.
This article about air compressor maintenance was written for Hobby Farms magazine. Click here to subscribe.
Ayam Cemani completely black chicken. Photo by Charlotte B.
If you’ve ever wondered what the most expensive chicken breeds in the U.S. are, you’re not alone. These rare and luxurious birds are prized for their stunning plumage, unusual genetics, and sometimes even their eggs.
Chickens, like many Instagram-worthy farm animals, can be quite expensive and bougie. Old Macdonald’s Farm might have been more lucrative if he had just focused on raising rare and exotic poultry. The National Chicken Council claims, “The chicken industry in the United States is one of the most successful sectors in agriculture.” But when it comes down to price per bird, the highest profit comes from looks and rarity, rather than their productivity or value in meat and eggs.
Breeders and hatcheries are selling more per animal because of the rare and exotic qualities buyers are seeking. As with every industry, the more established the breeding program is, the higher the prices will be. The genetics, feedback from customers and pictures of multi-generations the breeder has produced are what determine how established a breeding program is.
The fascinating world of fancy chicken breeding is not new. The National Agricultural Library reports, “The goal of successful poultry breeding has shifted through time. The first chickens were bred for their ability to perform activities that had little to do with food production. Skinner’s history of breeds identifies chickens used for cockfighting as being historically the most valuable until the early nineteenth century (1974). Chickens bred for their appearance and performance in poultry exhibits were also more valued than the lowly birds used for meat and eggs.”
Top 10 List of Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
Today’s market prizes these 10 breeds as the most expensive, exploring what qualities are driving up the prices for buyers. While value is a sliding scale depending on where you shop and when, these are notoriously ranked as expensive.
1. Ayam Cemani ($800 – $3,000) – The World’s Most Expensive Chicken?
The Ayam Cemani is an all-black bird prized due to a rare condition called fibromelanosis, which causes an excess of dark pigment resulting in jet-black feathers, skin, flesh, organs and bones. The black color is 10 times the melatonin as other chicken breeds. Unsexed eggs can be purchased for $45 with a minimum of 12. Juveniles (6-12 weeks) $800 and adults are sold for $1,200-$3,000. With a nickname, “The Lamborghini Chicken,” you know it’s going to be expensive.
2. Kadaknath ($2500) – India’s Contribution to the Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
These chickens are often confused with Ayam Cemani because of the black feathers from head to toe. However, Kadaknath’s have a varying pigment of black. They also differ in size, temperament, egg production and meat production. Many are jet black, but the breed also incorporates penciled and golden.
3. Dong Tao ($2,000) – The Dragon Chicken
This breed is rare and hard to find. The demand rarely matches the need. Dong Tao’s are prized for their easily recognized large legs and feet, which is easy to see why people call them the “Dragon Chicken.”
4. Deathlayer ($250) – A Prolific Layer
Moving from the thousands price range to the hundreds, Deathlayers are the leaders for being the most expensive chicken breeds. This dramatic name comes from their ability to lay eggs until their dying day. Also sought for their striking appearance they charm with their black babydoll eyes, beautiful feathers and can be silver or gold varieties.
5. Liege Fighter ($150) – A Muscular Marvel
Liege fighters are a large and muscular Belgian gamecock breed of chicken that was originally bred in the 19th century for fighting. They were bred to be powerful enough to overpower other fighting breeds and to fight using natural spurs instead of sharpened metal gaffes. Nowadays they are a great flock protector and generally friendly with their owners.
6. Ölandsk Dwarf ($100) – A Swedish Gem
Olandsk Dwarf chickens are true dwarf chickens. This means that they are not a miniature version of a full-size breed as you have with Bantam breeds. They are a landrace breed of chicken which are typically known to be hardy, disease-resistant and adaptable to changes. They are lightweight and display a beautiful combination of red, black, gray, brown and white multicolored feathers.
7. Swedish Black ($100) – A Fibromelanistic Fowl
The knockoff version of the Ayam Cemani might just be the Swedish Black moving this lower on the list of the most expensive chicken breeds. All physical features of the bird are black, although there can be a purple/greenish tint spotted in the sun. They are smaller and more cold-hardy than the Ayam Cemani. Despite the differences, it is still a fascinating and expensive bird.
8. Orust ($100) – A Spotted Scandinavian in the Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
Very hard to find, Orusts are beautifully spotted white and black from their head to their feet. This beauty, combined with their docile and easy-to-handle nature, makes them highly sought after.
9. Pavlovskaya ($86) – Russia’s Feathered Rarity Among the Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
If crests are a trait you like, these birds will be sure to interest you. They have a beautiful crest and lace-like markings. They are very cold-tolerant (being from Russia). They have a great history where they have been brought back from extinction, which is something many enthusiasts enjoy participating in preserving. They lay very few eggs a year, making them more valuable.
10. Serama ($77) – The World’s Smallest Yet One of the Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
Coming in last on the list of most expensive chicken breeds, Seramas are the smallest chickens in the world. A full-grown rooster is about the size of a pigeon. They are friendly and can be trained. They handle heat extremely well, as they are tropical birds. Their tiny stature and huge tails make a very intriguing look.
Serama chicken in the garden. Photo by Athok Fadhlin
🐔 Frequently Asked Questions About the Most Expensive Chicken Breeds
❓What is the most expensive chicken breed in the world?
The Ayam Cemani is often considered the most expensive chicken breed in the world. Known for its all-black appearance—including feathers, skin, and internal organs—it can sell for thousands of dollars due to its rarity and exotic appearance.
❓Why are some chicken breeds so expensive?
Chicken breeds become expensive due to a combination of factors: rarity, unique physical traits, cultural significance, limited geographic availability, and breeding difficulty. Some also have unique meat or egg qualities that add to their value.
❓Are expensive chicken breeds harder to care for?
Not necessarily, but some of the most expensive chicken breeds may have specific care requirements due to their genetics, climate sensitivity, or physical characteristics. Researching each breed’s needs is essential before adding one to your flock.
❓Can you buy expensive chicken breeds in the U.S.?
Yes, many of the world’s most expensive chicken breeds—such as Ayam Cemani, Swedish Black, and Serama—are available in the U.S. through specialty hatcheries, breeders, or poultry expos. Import regulations and breeder reputation are important to consider.
❓Do expensive chicken breeds lay better eggs?
Not always. Some expensive breeds, like the Deathlayer, are known for consistent egg production, while others, like the Serama or Dong Tao, are more ornamental and produce fewer eggs. High price doesn’t always mean high egg output.
❓Are rare chicken breeds good for backyard flocks?
Many rare and expensive breeds can be good for backyard flocks, especially if you enjoy ornamental or heritage breeds. However, their high value and sometimes limited availability mean they may require more protection and attention.
Why the High Price?
Rarity, physical features and access to these birds are among the top reasons they are priced so high. If you are in the market to start investing in these types of chickens, here are a few shopping tips from top breeder, Chrissy Scheulen at Paragon Ridge Ranch:
Know your goals. Are you breeding or showing birds? Are you looking for dual purpose or sustainability? What features interest you?
Research your breeder. Make sure it is a reputable source who has been working on their program for a while. Breeders should be culling for traits to get to the best of the best.
Shop smaller breeders. Commercial hatcheries and big box farm stores breed for quantity not quality.
Check online farm hatcheries, farmers markets and online sell groups.
Research the genetics of the parents.
Ask for photos of the birds and their environments.
Read customer feedback and reviews.
This article about the most expensive chicken breeds in the U.S. was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
Heritage chicken breeds are an important part of preserving American agricultural history. These breeds are often hardy, self-sufficient, and adapted to traditional farm systems. Let’s take a closer look at four standout American breeds that deserve a place in your conservation flock.
When a specific chicken you’re looking for seems nowhere to be found, you’ll more than likely find it on the Livestock Conservancy’s Conservation Priority List.
While breeds in active decline may not have lessened to the point of Critical or Threatened classification, they may meet the parameters required for categorization as Watch. For poultry breeds to be considered Watch worthy, they must have fewer than 5,000 breeding birds and 10 or fewer main breeding flocks in the United States.
Five thousand birds may seem like a lot, but let’s put that into perspective. According to the National Chicken Council, the U.S. produced more than 9 billion broiler chickens in 2021. This 9 billion does not include heritage or hybrid chickens being farmed for eggs, nor does it include all the birds being kept in backyard flocks. Suddenly, 5,000 birds seems insignificant, especially since extinction is only 5,000 birds away.
The following breeds, all developed in North America, are currently categorized as Watch or Recovering. Perhaps one or more may inspire you to start your own breeding flock.
1. Chantecler
Don’t let the name fool you. The Chantecler is not a Continental-class (Northern European) bird.
It is in fact the first chicken breed developed in Canada, developed by Brother Wilfred Chatelain of the Cistercian Abbey of Notre-Dame du Lac in Quebec. Brother Wilfred set out to create a bird that could withstand Canada’s harsh winter climate. Using Dark Cornish, White Leghorn, Rhode Island Red and White Wyandotte stock, he succeeded in developing the White Chantecler (chanter means to sing and clair means clear).
Halfway across the country, in Alberta, Dr. J.E. Wilkinson decided to improve on Brother Wilfred’s bird. Believing a white chicken to be too easily targeted by predators, Dr. Wilkinson developed a partridge variety of the Chantecler using Dark Cornish, rose-comb Brown Leghorn, Partridge Cochin and Partridge Wyandotte stock. The Partridge Chantecler was admitted into the APA in 1935.
Both Chantecler varieties are exceptionally cold-hardy, with minimal wattles and a tiny rose comb. The breed adapts well to both confinement and ranging and gets along with other varieties of chicken. Chantecler hens lay throughout winter, producing up to 220 beige-pink eggs per year. A calm, friendly bird, the Chantecler is the ideal chicken for those flock owners living in the northern U.S. and Canada.
2. Delaware
Sometimes mistakes turn out to be masterpieces. George Ellis of Indian River, Delaware, was participating in a breed improvement plan in the 1940s. The intention of this program was to produce a meaty dual-purpose bird that laid well. Ellis attempted this by breeding Barred Plymouth Rock roosters to New Hampshire hens.
Most of the birds produced from this cross-breeding bred true, the offspring developing identically to each other. Ellis’ interest, however, was drawn to the “sports,” or mistakes, that did not match the other birds.
Ellis noticed that a number of these sports were white with black bars—similar to a Colombian pattern, but with black bars instead of the Colombian’s solid black sections. Ellis chose to pursue improving these sports, which eventually became the Delaware chicken.
Since the Delaware’s primary purpose was to be a meat bird—a broiler—the breed was not well known to the small farmer and went into decline when the Cornish Rock became the choice broiler breed in the late 1950s. But those who choose to breed the Delaware are not disappointed.
The breed is very low maintenance, quite disease resistant and rarely jumps high. Delawares are inquisitive birds that like to explore their surroundings. They will happily follow their humans around, quite possibly out of simple curiosity. Delawares tend to be chatterboxes—definitely not the breed to keep if your home is a suburban one with a limited backyard.
Hens lay approximately 200 large eggs per year, do not go broody, and will produce Delaware cockerels and New Hampshire pullets if mated to a New Hampshire rooster.
3. Dominique
America’s first and oldest breed of chicken, the Dominique has been around since the 1750s. Records indicate that the Dominique was exhibited at the first American poultry show, held in Boston in 1849, and it was included in the very first edition of the Standard of Perfection, published by the newly formed APA in 1874.
Despite its well-established longevity in the U.S., the Dominique began to decline in the 1920s due to two factors: the passing away of the breed’s key enthusiasts and the skyrocketing popularity of the Plymouth Rock, which was developed by crossing Black Javas with Dominiques.
By 1970, only four known flocks of Dominiques remained. With the assistance of the Livestock Conservancy, these flock owners participated in a breed rescue program, safeguarding the Dominique’s long-established bloodlines, including one that dated back more than 100 years. Today, the Dominique Club of America helps promote and encourage the breeding and keeping of this heritage American bird. Unlike some of the other breeds on this list, the Dominique’s Watch status is actually a positive development.
With its tight plumage and low rose comb, the Dominique is a cold-hardy bird. Its gentle, friendly nature make it the perfect bird for brand-new backyard flock owners with small children. The Dominique’s docility also make it a popular choice for youths participating in 4-H competitions.
Dominique hens are prodigious layers, laying up to 275 medium-sized eggs per year. They can go broody and make excellent, devoted mothers.
4. Jersey Giant
A recent backyard-bird rage made the Jersey Giant every microflock owner’s must-have chicken. During spring Chick Days, it was not unusual to find stock tanks full of Jersey Giant chicks for sale at farm-supply stores, waiting to be bought.
The Jersey Giant remains in the Conservation Priority List’s Recovering category for breeds.
Originally bred by brothers Thomas and John Black of Burlington County, New Jersey, as a replacement for turkeys as a table bird, the Jersey Giant is known for its huge frame. Roosters can measure more than 2 feet in height, and hens are almost 2 feet tall.
Jersey Giant females can go broody and make good mothers, but they are also known for accidentally crushing the eggs they are incubating. Because of its size, the Jersey Giant also needs a larger coop, a larger nest box and a longer perch. Coops designed for the typical large-fowl flock may not be adequately sized for a Jersey Giant flock.
Furthermore, Jersey Giants must roost closer to the floor, as their bulk does not easily get airborne. Jumping down from a perch placed at a height typical for most chickens can potentially lead to injury for this sizable breed.
Despite a handful of negatives, the Jersey Giant is actually quite lovely to raise. There are three color varieties:
original black, which was recognized by the APA in 1922
white, which was accepted in 1947
blue, which was admitted in 2003
All three Jersey Giant varieties are gentle, calm birds that get along with other chicken breeds. They love to forage and, due to their size, may take on smaller predators. Hens lay about 200 extra-large eggs per year and take an extra day or two to hatch their clutch than do other hens. Both males and females enjoy interacting with their humans and even cuddling with their owners.
Heritage Breed FAQs
What are heritage chicken breeds?
Heritage chicken breeds are traditional poultry lines developed before the mid-20th century that have been bred for traits like natural reproduction, long lifespan, and productivity in pasture-based systems. They are often included in breed conservation efforts.
Why should I keep heritage chicken breeds?
Keeping heritage chicken breeds helps preserve genetic diversity and supports sustainable agriculture. Many heritage breeds are hardy, adaptable, and well-suited to small-scale or backyard farming.
Are heritage breeds good egg layers?
Yes, many heritage chicken breeds are reliable layers, especially of brown or tinted eggs. While they may not lay as prolifically as commercial hybrids, they often produce consistently over a longer lifespan.
Can heritage chicken breeds be used for meat?
Absolutely. Most heritage breeds are dual-purpose, meaning they are good for both eggs and meat. Breeds like the Delaware or Buckeye were historically valued for their flavorful meat.
Where can I find heritage chicken breeds to buy?
You can purchase heritage chicken breeds from reputable hatcheries and breeders. The Livestock Conservancy offers a directory of conservation-focused suppliers.
This article about heritage chicken breeds was written for Hobby Farms and Chickens magazines. Click here to subscribe.
